WO2019096821A1

WO2019096821A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising three particular polymers and a liquid fatty substance

Info

Publication number: WO2019096821A1
Application number: PCT/EP2018/081186
Authority: WO
Inventors: Eric DUPONCHEL; Sandrine Olivier-Mabilais
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2017-11-15
Filing date: 2018-11-14
Publication date: 2019-05-23
Anticipated expiration: 2020-05-15
Also published as: FR3073403A1

Abstract

A subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising: a) one or more associative polyurethane polymers, b) one or more polysaccharides representing from 1.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, c) one or more cationic polymers comprising one or more units derived from one or more acrylic acid-or methacrylic acid-based monomers, d) one or more fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature and at ambient pressure, and e) water. A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, comprising a step of applying this composition to said keratin materials. Finally, a subject of the invention is the use of the composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, in particular the hair, and preferably for conditioning said materials.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising three particular polymers and a liquid fatty substance

A subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one particular associative polymer, at least one polysaccharide, at least one particular cationic polymer, at least one liquid fatty substance and water.

A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, comprising the application of this composition to said keratin materials.

Finally, a subject of the invention is the use of the composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, in particular the hair, and preferably for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair.

Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.

Accordingly, to remedy these drawbacks, it is now common to use cosmetic treatment compositions that contain cosmetic agents, known as conditioning agents, intended mainly to repair or to limit the harmful or undesirable effects brought about by the various treatments or attacks to which hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subjected. These conditioning agents may of course also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair, in particular giving it sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and also disentangling properties.

Hair conditioning compositions containing an aqueous phase and a fatty phase gelled by means of mineral thickeners have been described, for example, in application FR 3 022 781.

However, the mineral thickening agents used to stabilize the mixture of the two types of phases have the drawback of exuding over time, in particular at high storage temperatures. Thus, phase coalescence phenomena can occur, leading to phase separation of the mixture and/or a drop in the viscosity of the composition.

Consequently, there is a need to improve the stability of such compositions.

However, these compositions must also retain good working properties and good performance levels in terms of conditioning. In particular regarding the working properties, it must be possible for the composition to be easily applied to the keratin fibres and to be rapidly rinsed off, where appropriate. Regarding the performance properties, the composition must confer, on the keratin fibres, good cosmetic properties, in particular sheen, softness, suppleness and lightness properties and a natural feel, and good disentangling properties, without however making the keratin fibres greasy or making them lank.

Thus, there is a need to prepare cosmetic treatment compositions, in particular conditioning compositions, which have good stability over time (several months), in particular at high storage temperatures (for example 45°C) while at the same time retaining good working and performance properties.

It has now been discovered, surprisingly, that a cosmetic composition comprising at least one particular associative polymer, at least one polysaccharide, at least one particular cationic polymer, at least one liquid fatty substance, and water makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.

A subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising: a) one or more associative polyurethane polymers,

b) one or more polysaccharides representing from 1.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

c) one or more cationic polymers comprising one or more units derived from one or more acrylic acid- or methacrylic acid-based monomers,

d) one or more liquid fatty substances, and

e) water.

The composition according to the invention is stable on storage over time (at least 2 months), both at ambient temperature (25°C) and at higher temperatures, in particular at 45°C.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable on storage over time" is intended to mean that the following physical characteristics of the composition vary little, or even not at all, over time, in particular after 2 months: appearance, pH, rheology (viscosity, consistency).

In particular, the composition does not give rise to any phase-separation or exudation phenomena over time, and at the intended storage temperature.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has good care properties, such as in particular disentangling, straightening, suppleness. Finally, the composition according to the invention can advantageously be used in conditioning compositions.

A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, consisting in applying the composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.

Finally, a subject of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, in particular the hair, and preferably for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

Figure 1 shows pictures of two compositions - a composition F according to the invention and a comparative composition E, as detailed in Example 3 - just after their preparation (TO), and after three days of storage at room temperature (25°C).

In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, especially in the expressions“between” and “ranging from ... to

Moreover, the expressions“at least one” and“at least” used in the present description are equivalent to the expressions“one or more” and“greater than or equal to”, respectively.

According to the present application, the term“keratin materials” mainly denotes keratin fibres and the skin.

According to the present application, the term“keratin fibres” mainly denotes human keratin fibres and in particular the hair.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more associative polyurethane polymers.

Preferably, the associative polyurethane polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention comprise in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

Preferably, the associative polyurethane polymers that can be used according to the invention comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, which are separated by a hydrophilic block, it being possible for the hydrocarbon-based chains to be pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block. The hydrophilic block(s) are preferably polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, chains comprising from 10 to 1000, especially from 20 to 500, in particular from 80 to 300, even better still from 100 to 300, oxy ethylene groups.

The associative polyurethane polymers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.

The associative polyurethane polymers that can be used according to the invention may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 10 to 1000, especially from 20 to 500, in particular from 80 to 300, even better still from 100 to 300, oxyethylene groups. The associative polyurethane polymers generally comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the name.

By extension, also included among the associative polyurethane polymers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

The associative polyurethane polymers that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).

Preferably, the associative polyurethane polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethane polymers.

Mention may be made, as examples of non-ionic associative polyurethane polymers that can be used in the invention, of Rheolate 205 comprising a urea function, sold by the company Elementis, or else Rheolate 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184.

Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210 containing a C12- C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212 containing a Cl 8 alkyl chain, from Akzo. The product DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas having a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, provided at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium.

Mention may be made, as examples of such polymers, of Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244, sold by Elementis. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas.

In one particular embodiment of the invention, use may be made of a non ionic associative polyurethane polymer that can be obtained by poly condensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 20 to 500, in particular from 50 to 400, or else from 80 to 350, even better still from 100 to 300 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated linear or branched C12- C28, in particular C14-C26, alcohol comprising from 10 to 200, in particular from 10 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.

According to a first variant, use may be made of a non-ionic associative polyurethane polymer able to be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising from 80 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.

Mention may in particular be made of the polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight- average molecular weight (Mw) of 30 000 (INCI name: PEG-l36/Steareth-l00/HDI Copolymer). Such a polymer is in particular provided by the company Elementis under the name Rheolate FX 1100® or Rheoluxe 811® .

According to another variant, use may be made of a non-ionic associative polyurethane polyether able to be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 200 to 300 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol comprising from 10 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate. Mention may in particular be made of the polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 240 mol of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol comprising 20 mol of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) (INCI name: PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether). Such a polymer is for example sold under the name Adekanol Gt 730® by the company Adeka.

In another embodiment of the invention, use may be made of a non-ionic associative polyurethane polymer that can be obtained by poly condensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 300, in particular from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a linear or branched C8-C28, in particular C10-C24, alcohol, in particular stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyurethane polymers are sold especially by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46 and Aculyn 44 [Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol (PEG) comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

Preferably, the non-ionic associative polyurethane polymers as described above have a number-average molecular weight of less than 500 000, more preferentially less than 100 000, and in particular ranging from 5000 to 80 000, which can be measured by methods such as cryoscopy, osmotic pressure, ebullioscopy or titration of the end groups.

Preferentially, the associative urethane polymer(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethane polymers, in particular those that can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising from 80 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate, and those that can be obtained by poly condensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 200 to 300 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol comprising from 10 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.

The associative polyurethane polymer(s) advantageously represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.075% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polysaccharides.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term“polysaccharides” is intended to mean a polymer constituted of sugar units.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" is intended to mean an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.

The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of polysaccharides, of native gums such as:

a) tree or shrub exudates, including:

- gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);

- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

b) gums derived from algae, including:

- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);

- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate);

c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

- locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

d) microbial gums, including:

- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);

- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

e) polymers extracted from plants, including:

- celluloses (glucose polymers);

- starches (glucose polymers) and

- inulin.

The polysaccharide(s) of the composition according to the invention can also be chosen from mixtures of the polysaccharides above.

These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of a heat treatment.

Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may especially be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

The non- ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

The botanical origin of the starches that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferentially be used, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA- 70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized com distarch phosphate).

According to the invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

The starches may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular such as com, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

The polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention may be cellulose-based polymers.

According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based" polymer is intended to mean any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via b-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. Thus, the cellulose polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

Among the non- ionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Cl- C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by the company National Starch.

Particularly preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from:

- celluloses,

- starches, and

- mixtures of these compounds,

these polysaccharides being optionally modified by a heat treatment, an esterification reaction, an etherification reaction, an amidation reaction or an oxidation reaction.

Most particularly preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from a mixture of one or more celluloses and of one or more starches, which may or may not be modified.

Even more preferentially, the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from a mixture of one or more cellulose ethers, which are preferably non-ionic, and of one or more distarch phosphates.

The polysaccharide(s) represent in total from 1.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

In a most particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least two distinct polysaccharides such as those mentioned above.

In particular in this preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of cellulose(s) and of starch(es) such as those mentioned above, in particular a mixture of cellulose ether(s) and of distarch phosphate(s).

In the particular case of a mixture of cellulose(s) and starch(es), the weight ratio of the amount of starch to the amount of cellulose is preferably between 0.1 and 10, more preferentially between 0.5 and 5, in particular between 0.75 and 2.5, and even better still between 1 and 2.

In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the amount of the associative polyurethane polymer(s) to the amount of the polysaccharide(s) is less than 1, preferably less than 0.7, more preferentially less than 0.6, even more preferentially less than 0.5, even better still less than 0.2, and even better still less than 0.1. As previously described, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers comprising one or more units derived from one or more acrylic acid- or methacrylic acid-based monomers.

The term“unit derived from a monomer” is intended to mean the unit formed directly at the end of the monomer polymerization step.

The term“acrylic acid- or methacrylic acid-based monomer” is of course intended to mean acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, but also the esters or amides of acrylic acid and of methacrylic acid.

In particular, the cationic polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention preferably comprise one or more units derived from one or more monomers having the following structures:

in which:

- Ri and R₂, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a Ci to CV, alkyl group, preferably a Ci to C₄ alkyl group,

- R₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

- R₄, R_S and Re, which may be identical or different, denote a Ci to Cis alkyl group or a benzyl radical,

- A denotes a linear or branched Ci to CV, and preferably Ci to C₄ alkyl ene group, or a Ci to C₄ hydroxy alky lene group, and

- X denotes an anion, preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide such as a chloride or a bromide.

According to one preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention comprise one or more units derived from a monomer of formula (II).

In particular, they comprise one or more units derived from a monomer of formula (V) below:

CH₂=C(R'₃)-COO- A_I -N⁺-R'₄R'₅R'₆X_I (V) in which:

- R ₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a methyl group,

- R’_4, R’_S and R _>, which may be identical or different, each denote a Ci to C₄ alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, - Ai denotes a linear or branched Ci to C₄ alkylene group, preferably an ethylene group, and

- Xf denotes an anion, preferably a halide, particularly a chloride.

The cationic polymer(s) according to the invention may or may not be crosslinked.

In addition to the units derived from one or more acrylic acid- or methacrylic acid-based monomers, the cationic polymers according to the invention can comprise one or more additional units, in particular derived from monomers chosen from acrylamide, methacrylamide and vinylpyrrolidone.

Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from homopolymers constituted of units derived from a monomer of structure (V), copolymers based on acrylamide and on monomers of structure (V), and mixtures thereof

In other words, the cationic polymer(s) are preferably chosen from homopolymers resulting from the polymerization of monomers having structure (V), copolymers resulting from the copolymerization between at least one monomer having structure (V) and acrylamide, and mixtures thereof.

Among homopolymers resulting from the polymerization of monomers having structure (V), methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride homopolymer, INCI name Polyquatemium-37, is preferred.

Among copolymers resulting from the copolymerization between monomers having structure (V) and acrylamide, methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer, INCI name Polyquatemium-32, and the methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methylsulfate/acrylamide copolymer, INCI name Polyquatemiun-5, are preferred.

Mention may also be made of copolymers based on acrylamide, on acrylic acid and on monomers of formula (III), in particular methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; among which mention may be made of Polyquatemium 53.

Mention may also be made of copolymers based on methyl acrylate, on acrylic acid and on monomers of formula (III), in particular methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; among which mention may be made of Polyquatemium 47.

Preferably, the cationic polymer is the homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, INCI name Polyquatemium-37. Advantageously, the cationic polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.25% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more liquid fatty substances.

The term "liquid fatty substance" is intended to mean a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013X10⁵ Pa).

The term“fatty substance” according to the present application is intended to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), i.e. with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, in water.

In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from non-silicone liquid fatty substances.

The term“non-silicone liquid fatty substance” is intended to mean a liquid fatty substance not containing Si-0 bonds.

The liquid fatty substances that can be used in the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of l s-¹.

The liquid fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon- based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-salified fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. The term“liquid hydrocarbon” is intended to mean a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 105 Pa).

More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:

- linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product sold under the brand name Parleam® by the company NOF Corporation, and squalane.

Preferably, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from liquid paraffins, isoparaffins, liquid petroleum jelly, undecane, tridecane and isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

In a most particularly preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, isoparaffins, isododecane and a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

The term“liquid fatty alcohol” is intended to mean a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 105 Pa). Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and may be saturated or unsaturated.

The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring, but they are preferably acyclic.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic. The liquid fatty alcohols preferably have the structure R'-OH, in which R' denotes a branched C12-C24 alkyl or linear or branched C12-C24 alkenyl group, R' possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, R' is a branched C12-C24 alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; better still, R' does not contain a hydroxyl group.

More particularly, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, lino ley 1 alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.

Octyldodecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol and oleyl alcohol are most particularly preferred.

The term“liquid fatty ester” is intended to mean an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013x105 Pa).

More particularly, the liquid esters are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of alkyl, in particular C1-C28 alkyl, palmitates, such as ethyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl, in particular C1-C28 alkyl, myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may be used.

Mention may be made especially of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, use is preferentially made of ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

Among the liquid fatty esters, use may be made of sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.

The term“sugar” is intended to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Preferably, these said sugars are chosen from sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar and fatty acid esters may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.

If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates, or alternatively of methylglucose dioleate (Glucate® DO). Among the sugar esters, use may be made of pcntacrythrityl esters, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraiso stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, and caprylic and capric acid hexaesters as a mixture with dipentaerythritol.

Among the natural or synthetic monoacid, diacid or triacid esters with glycerol, use may be made of plant oils or synthetic oils.

More particularly, said plant oil(s) or synthetic oil(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee oil, safflower oil, borage oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara pea oil, avocado oil, mango oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, blueberry seed oil, poppy seed oil, orange pip oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, vemonia oil, marjoram oil, baobab oil, rapeseed oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

As liquid esters that may be used according to the invention, use is preferably made of triglycerides of plant origin, in particular oils chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil and apricot kernel oil, and mixtures thereof, and C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters of C1-C22 alcohols, in particular 1, 3-propanediol dicaprylate.

The term“fatty acid” is intended to mean a non-salified fatty acid, i.e. the fatty acid must not be in the form of a generally soluble soap, i.e. it must not be salified with a base.

More particularly, the liquid fatty acids that may be used according to the invention are chosen from the acids of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical preferably comprising from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R is a C7-C29 alkyl or C7-C29 alkenyl group and better still a C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.

Preferentially, the liquid fatty acid(s) are chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid and isostearic acid. Most particularly preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) of the composition according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, in particular plant oils, liquid hydrocarbons and mixtures of these compounds.

Advantageously, the fatty substance(s) that are liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure represent from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, and better still from 7% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises water.

The water preferably represents from 50% to 99.5% by weight, more preferentially from 60% to 98% by weight, in particular from 65% to 95% by weight and even better still from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more organic solvents.

Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from C1-C6 non-aromatic alcohols such as ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, or aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerol, or polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol mono methyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol mo no methyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.

When they are present in the composition of the invention, the organic solvent(s) generally represent from 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention can comprise one or more cationic surfactants, which are preferably non-silicone.

The term“cationic surfactant” is intended to mean a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in a composition that may be used according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:

those corresponding to the following general formula (VI):

in which formula (VI):

the groups R₈ to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn denoting a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C₂-C₆) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12- C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂-C₆)alkyl, (Ci2-C₂2)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;

X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C₄)alkylsulfo nates and (Ci-C₄)alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI), the ones that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is preferred in particular to use the chloride salts of these compounds. - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (VII) below:

in which formula (VII):

R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,

R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Ri4 represents a Ci-C₄ alkyl group,

R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C₄ alkyl group,

X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R_I4 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.

Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

- diquatemary or triquatemary ammonium salts of formula (VIII):

in which formula (VIII): - Ri₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

- Rn denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N⁺(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a); Ri6a, Rna and Risa, which may be identical or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- Ri₈, R₁₉, R₂₀ and R₂₁, which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

- X is an anion, chosen especially from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C₄)alkylsulfo nates and (Ci- C₄)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quatemium 89) and Finquat CT (Quatemium 75), sold by the company Finetex.

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, having formula (IX) below:

in which formula (IX):

- R22 is chosen from Ci-CV, alkyl groups and Ci-CV, hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

- R₂₃ is chosen from the group R26-C(=0)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups R₂₇; and a hydrogen atom,

- R₂₅ is chosen from the group R28-C(=0)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C₆ hydrocarbon-based groups R₂₉; and a hydrogen atom,

- R2₄, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,

- r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to

6,

- rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, - r2 and t2, which may be identical or different, are integers such that r2+rl=2r and tl+t2=2t,

- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

- x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, it being understood that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15,

- X is an anion,

with the proviso that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 1-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C1 1 -C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C₄)alkylsulfonate or a (Ci-C₄)alkylarylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.

Use is more particularly made, according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IX) in which:

- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1 , - z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- r2 and t2 are equal to 4,

- rl and tl are equal to 0,

- R-23 is chosen from the group R₂₆-C(=0)-; methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and a hydrogen atom,

- R₂₅ is chosen from the group R₂₈-C(=0)-; a hydrogen atom,

- R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

Mention may be made, among the compounds of formula (IX), of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,

triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts, in particular the chloride or the methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures especially of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quatemization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Evonik.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

The cationic surfactant(s) that may be present in the composition according to the invention can also be chosen from a mixture of the cationic surfactants of formulae (VI) to (IX) above.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from those of formula (VI) or (IX) and mixtures of these compounds, more preferentially from those of formula (VI) and mixtures of these compounds.

In a particularly preferred manner, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; and in particular from cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

In a most particularly preferred manner, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, and in particular from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

When they are present in the composition of the invention, the cationic surfactant(s) advantageously represent a total content of from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition of the invention is generally between 1 and 7, preferably between 2 and 6, better still between 2.5 and 5.5 and preferentially between 3 and 5.

The pH of the composition of the invention may be adjusted and/or stabilized by means of basifying agents and/or acidifying agents that are well known to those skilled in the art. Basifying agents that may especially be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates, organic amines with a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, in particular less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6; among the salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid, it should be noted that it is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.

Preferably, the amines are chosen from alkanolamines, in particular comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-C₈ alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals; from oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, and from amino acids and compounds having the following formula:

in which W is a Ci-C₆ alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a Ci-CV, alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C₆ alkyl, Ci-CV, hydroxyalkyl or Ci-CV, aminoalkyl radical.

Acidifying agents that may especially be mentioned include hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid, and also carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, lactic acid or citric acid, or sulfonic acids.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives.

As additives that can be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of cationic polymers other than the cationic polymers present in the composition of the invention and mentioned above, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers other than the polysaccharides mentioned above, antidandruff agents, anti- seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, oxy acids, fragrances, preservatives, pigments and ceramides. Those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the composition according to the invention.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, which comprises a step of applying the composition as described above to said materials.

The composition may be applied to dry or damp keratin fibres, and particularly to damp keratin fibres.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to damp keratin fibres, after applying a washing composition of the shampoo type.

The composition can be rinsed off after application to the keratin fibres; it can thus be in the form of a hair composition such as a conditioner, or a skin care and/or hygiene composition, such as a shower gel or a body milk to be rinsed off under the shower.

The composition can also be used in non-rinse-off mode, that is to say without the rinsing step after it has been applied to the keratin fibres.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition as described above, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, in particular the hair, and preferably for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair.

The cosmetic treatment is preferably a conditioning care treatment.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature.

EXAMPLE 1

In the example that follows, all the amounts are given, unless otherwise indicated, as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition (AM: active material).

I. Composition tested

The following composition A was prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below.

Evaluation of performance levels and results

Composition A is stable after 2 months of storage at 45°C. In particular, no drop in viscosity is observed.

The compositions of the invention are characterized by a viscoelastic behaviour. Under the effect of the shear, the compositions have the characteristics of a purely elastic material which stores energy and the characteristics of a purely viscous material which dissipates energy. This viscoelastic behaviour can be characterized by its modulus of rigidity G (parameter defined in the book“initiation a la rheologie” [“initiation to rheology”], G.Couarraze and J.L. Grossiord, 2nd edition, 1991, published by Lavoisier-Tee 1 Doc.). This parameter is determined by measurements carried out at 25°C+/-0.5°C using a Haake Mars III imposed-stress rheometer from the company ThermoRheo, equipped with a stainless steel spindle, sanded l°+/-0.033° Cone/Plate geometry, the plate having a diameter of 60 mm and a gap of 0.052+/- 0.005. The dynamic measurements are carried out by applying a harmonic variation of the stress. In these experiments, the amplitudes of the shear, the shear rate and the stress are low so as to remain within the limit of the linear viscoelastic range of the material (the conditions enabling the rheological characteristics of the composition to be evaluated at rest, that is to say non-destructively). The composition is subjected to a harmonic shear according to a stress r(t) that varies sinusoidally according to angular frequency w (w=2pn, v being the frequency of the applied shear). The composition thus sheared is subjected to a stress r(t) and responds according to a strain y(t) corresponding to microstrains for which the modulus of rigidity varies little as a function of the stress imposed; this is the parameter G termed plateau (Gpl). The stress r(t) and the strain y(t) are defined respectively by the following relationships:

r(t)=r0cos(c .t) yftUyOcosfc .t-b)

tq is the maximum amplitude of the stress and gq is the maximum amplitude of the strain d is the phase angle between the stress and strain. The measurement is carried out at a frequency of 1 Hz (v=l Hz). The change in the modulus of rigidity G (ratio of tq to gq) as a function of the stress r(t) applied is thus measured.

The plateau modulus of rigidity Gpl of the composition changes little between the time 2 months at ambient temperature, Gpl = 744 Pa, and the time 2 months at 45°C, Gpl = 671 Pa. The change is not significant. Composition A was tested in comparison to a conventional hair care composition B comprising in particular 4.7 g% of cationic surfactant (behentrimonium chloride), 1.7 g% of amodimethicone and 7 g% of solid fatty alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

Each of the compositions was applied per half head on 6 models, in a proportion of 6 g of composition per half head, on prewashed hair.

The performance levels in terms of smoothness to the touch during rinsing and on wet hair, and disentangling on wet hair, were evaluated on a scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good) in increments of 0.5.

The means of the 6 scores obtained are given below:

(*) determined by means of a Student’s test Composition A results in performance levels in terms of smoothness to the touch during rinsing and on wet hair, and disentangling on wet hair, that are significantly higher compared with comparative composition B.

EXAMPLE 2

The following compositions C and D that are according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below (% by weight of AM).

EXAMPLE 3 The following compositions E and F were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below (% by weight of AM).

Figure 1 shows pictures of the two compositions taken just after their preparation (TO), and after three days of storage at room temperature of 25°C (TO +3d).

The pictures show that composition F according to the invention is stable on storage, whereas comparative composition E is not (the phases have separated).

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising:

a) one or more associative polyurethane polymers,

d) one or more liquid fatty substances, and

e) water.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the associative polyurethane polymer(s) are chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethane polymers, preferably those that can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising from 80 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate, and those that can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 200 to 300 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol comprising from 10 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the associative polyurethane polymer(s) represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.075% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide agent(s) are chosen from:

a) tree or shrub exudates, preferably gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum and gum tragacanth;

b) gums derived from algae, preferably agar, alginates, carrageenans and furcellerans;

c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, preferably guar gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, tamarind gum and konjac gum; d) microbial gums, preferably xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum;

e) polymers extracted from plants, preferably chosen from celluloses, starches and inulin;

f) mixtures of these compounds,

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from:

- celluloses;

- starches, and

- mixtures of these compounds,

these polysaccharides being optionally modified by a heat treatment, an esterification reaction, an etherification reaction, an amidation reaction or an oxidation reaction,

and more preferentially chosen from a mixture of one or more celluloses and of one or more starches, which may or may not be modified, better still from a mixture of one or more cellulose ethers, which are preferably non-ionic, and of one or more distarch phosphates.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide(s) represent from 1.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) comprise one or more units derived from one or more monomers chosen from those having the following structures:

in which:

- Ri and R₂, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a Ci to C₆ alkyl group, preferably a Ci to C₄ alkyl group,

- R₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

- A denotes a linear or branched Ci to C₆ and preferably Ci to C₄ alkylene group, or a Ci to C₄ hydroxy alkylene group, and - X denotes an anion, preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide such as a chloride or a bromide.

8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) comprise one or more units derived from a monomer of formula (II), in particular comprise one or more units derived from a monomer of formula (V) below:

CH₂=C(R'₃)-COO- AI -N⁺-R'₄R'₅R'6XI (V) in which:

R⁵3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a methyl group,

R’_4, R’_S and RV_>, which may be identical or different, each denote a Ci to C₄ alkyl group, preferably a methyl group,

Ai denotes a linear or branched Ci to C₄ alkylene group, preferably an ethylene group, and

Xf denotes an anion, preferably a halide, particularly a chloride.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.25% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from non-silicone liquid fatty substances, and preferably from liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, in particular plant oils, liquid hydrocarbons, and mixtures of these compounds.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) that are liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure represent from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, and better still from 7% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises water in a content ranging from 50% to 99.5% by weight, more preferentially from 60% to 98% by weight, in particular from 65% to 95% by weight, and even better still from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the amount of the associative polyurethane polymer(s) to the amount of the polysaccharide(s) is less than 1, preferably less than 0.7, more preferentially less than 0.6, even more preferentially less than 0.5, even better still less than 0.2, and even better still less than 0.1.

14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, comprising a step of applying a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims to said keratin materials.

15. Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, in particular the hair, and preferably for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair.