WO2025150462A1

WO2025150462A1 - Composition for keratinous fibers comprising amphoteric surfactant or betaine compound

Info

Publication number: WO2025150462A1
Application number: PCT/JP2024/080244
Authority: WO
Inventors: Mathilde Ghafar; Noriko KASASHIMA; Cherry Yang
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2024-01-10
Filing date: 2024-12-26
Publication date: 2025-07-17
Anticipated expiration: 2026-07-10

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms; (b) at least one fatty amide; (c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and (d) at least one of amphoteric surfactants or betaine compounds, wherein when the at least one betaine compound is included as the (d) ingredient, the amount of the betaine compound is at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

DESCRIPTION

TITLE OF INVENTION

COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT OR BETAINE COMPOUND

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition for keratinous fibers comprising at least one betaine compound, in particular a hair care composition comprising at least one betaine compound, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition.

BACKGROUND ART

It is well known that the smoothing and softening effect of hair related products are widely favored by customers. It is also well-known that hair conditioner is recommended for the treatment of damaged hair which has been sensitized (i.e., damaged and/or embrittled) to varying degrees under the action of an atmospheric agent or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as dyeing, bleaching and/or permanent waving operations. When damaged, the hair is often difficult to disentangle, and lacks softness. It is well known in the art to use hair conditioner in compositions for washing or caring for hair in order to facilitate disentangling of the hair and to achieve the softening and smoothing effect.

Some prior art discloses compositions for caring for keratinous fibers.

For example, WO 2013/189037 discloses a personal care composition comprising a pearlescent conditioning composition comprising: a) at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms, b) at least one fatty amide, c) at least one alkylpolyglycoside, and d) at least one conditioning agent.

However, there is still a demand of cosmetic compositions with improved pearlescent appearance, and which can provide improved conditioning effects, such as softening effect on keratinous fibers. Also, there is still a demand for cosmetic compositions which can provide keratinous fibers with improved conditioning effects, such as effects imparting softness and smoothness to keratinous fibers, and which have an increased viscosity since the viscosity is a key to bring repairing cues to consumers.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition with improved pearlescent effect as well as providing keratinous fiber such as hair with improved conditioning effect, such as softening effect.

Another objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with improved conditioning effect, such as effects imparting softness and smoothness to keratinous fibers, and which have an increased viscosity without weighing down the keratinous fibers such as the hair.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms; (b) at least one fatty amide;

(c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and

(d) at least one of amphoteric surfactants or betaine compounds, wherein when the at least one betaine compound is included as the (d) ingredient, the amount of the betaine compound is at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) fatty alcohol may have a carbon chain containing from 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

The amount of the (a) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) fatty amide may be selected from those formed by reacting an alkanolamine and a C₄- C₂₈ fatty acid.

The (b) fatty amide may be chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the (b) fatty amide(s) in the composition may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) sugar ether surfactant may be selected from alkyl glucoside type surfactants.

The alkyl glucoside type surfactant may be represented by the following general formula: wherein

R₁ represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, and more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl radical containing from 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, and more preferably 7 to 26 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of R₁ denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

R₂ represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

G represents a reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10; and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

The alkyl glucoside may be selected from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, C₁₂-20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the (c) sugar ether surfactants) in the composition may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one (d) amphoteric surfactant selected from phospholipids as the (d) ingredient.

The (d) amphoteric surfactant may be selected from phosphoacylglycerol, more preferably selected from lecithins.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one (d) betaine compound selected from trimethyl glycine, carnitine, and proline betaine, as the (d) ingredient.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the both of the at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one betaine compound as the (d) ingredient.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning or caring for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: applying to the keratinous fiber the composition according to the present invention; and optionally rinsing off the composition from the keratinous fibers.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

After diligent research, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that an addition of the (d) amphoteric surfactant to the combination of the ingredients (a) to (c) can impart improved softness to keratinous fibers. In addition, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that an addition of the (d) amphiphilic lipid material can make the composition slightly yellowish, which impart an improved pearlescent appearance to the composition, and thus completed the invention.

Also, after diligent research, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that an addition of the specific amount of the (d) betaine compound to the combination of the ingredients (a) to (c) can increase the viscosity of the composition without weighing down the keratinous fibers such as the hair, as well as impart improved softness and smoothness to the hair, and thus completed the invention.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms;

(b) at least one fatty amide;

(c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and

The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with improved softening and smoothening effect. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be for conditioning and/or caring for keratinous fibers.

The term “keratinous fibers” here means fibers containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include hair, eyelash, eyebrow, and the like. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process for keratin fibers, and more preferably hair. The composition according to the present invention presents an improved pearlescence appearance. Thus, the composition according to the present invention exhibits a more attractive appearance.

Also, the composition according to the present invention can also increase the viscosity of the composition without weighing down the keratinous fibers such as the hair. Thus, the keratinous fibers treated with the composition according to the present invention can exhibit a desired viscous property. The viscosity of the cosmetic compositions, in particular hair care cosmetic compositions is very important since it is a key to bring repairing cues to consumers. The inventors of the present invention surprisingly discovered that the addition of the specific amount of the (d) betaine compound to the specific combinations of the ingredients (a) to (c) can achieve an appropriate viscosity as well as the conditioning effects.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.

[Composition]

The composition according to the present invention comprises: at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms;

(b) at least one fatty amide;

(c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and

The composition according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner below.

(Fatty Alcohol Having Carbon Chain Containing From 20 to 26 Carbon Atoms)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

The carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol is a saturated carbon chain.

The carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Preferably, the carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol is a linear carbon chain.

In one preferred embodiment, the carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol is a linear and saturated carbon chain.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 24 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, R may be chosen from C₂₀-C₂₄ alkyl and C₂₀-C₂₄ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group. The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is a linear and saturated radical containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

As examples of the (a) fatty alcohol, mention may be made of arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In one preferred embodiment, the (a) fatty alcohol is selected from linear and saturated fatty alcohols, such as arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The (a) fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 7% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the context of the present specification, any combinations of the upper limit values and the lower limit values above can be available to represent the preferred range of the amount.

(Fatty Amide)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty amide. A single type of fatty amide may be used, or two or more different types of fatty amide may be used in combination.

The term “fatty amide” here can mean a reaction product of a fatty acid or fatty acid ester with an alkanolamine. Fatty amide can be one type of nonionic surfactants.

The term “fatty acid” here means a monofunctional carboxylic acid with an aliphatic chain containing a relatively large amount of carbon atoms.

The fatty acid may be linear or branched. In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear fatty acids. The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids and unsaturated fatty acids having 1 or 2 carbon-carbon double bonds.

Non-limiting examples of the fatty acid include saturated or unsaturated linear fatty acids having from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular, the fatty acid may include a mixture of two or more saturated and unsaturated linear fatty acids having from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

The fatty aid of the fatty amide may be monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenaied, and for example may be polyoxyethylenated. Preferably, the fatty acid is not monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated.

The term “alkanolamine” here means a compound having an alkane backbone with at least one hydroxy group and at least one amine group.

The alkane backbone of the alkanolamine may be linear or branched, and may have 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

The amine group of the alkanolamine may be a primary amine group or a secondary amine group. Preferably, the amine group of the alkanolamine is a primary amine group.

The (b) fatty amide may include those formed by reacting an alkanolamine and a C₄-C₂₈ fatty acid. Such surfactants can be chosen from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C₆- C₂₄ fatty acids, and preferably from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C₈-C₂₂ fatty acids or of C₈-C₂₀ fatty acids, and may have a C_2-3 hydroxyalkyl group.

The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid mono-alkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

R₁-C(O)-NH-R₂ wherein

R₁ represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms;

R₂ represents a hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The term “hydroxyalkyl” means a linear or branched alkyl radical where at least one hydrogen atom is substituted with a hydroxy (-OH) group. The hydroxyalkyl may include one or more hydroxy groups, but preferably one hydroxy group.

In one preferred embodiment, R₂ represents a hydroxyalkyl radical where a hydroxy group is located at a terminal of the alkyl chain, i.e., the hydroxy alkyl has a primary alcohol radical. Thus, the b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid mono-alkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

R₁-C(O)-NH-R₃-CH₂OH wherein

R₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms; R₃ represents a single bond or a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkylene radical containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid di-alkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

R₁-C(O)-N(R₂)₂ wherein R₁ represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms;

R₂ represents, same or different, a hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The term “hydroxyalkyl” means a linear or branched alkyl radical where at least one hydrogen atom is substituted with a hydroxy (-OH) group. The hydroxyalkyl may include one or more hydroxy groups, but preferably one hydroxy group.

R₁-C(O)-N(R₃-CH₂OH)₂ wherein

Examples of the (b) fatty amide include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soya fatty acids diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut isopropanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MEA), coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, lauric isopropanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, and mixtures thereof.

In one preferred embodiment, the (b) fatty amide is chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

The (b) fatty amide(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) fatty amide(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 7% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) fatty amide(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (a) fatty alcohol(s) to the (b) fatty amide(s) included in the composition may be from 10: 1 to 1 : 10, preferably 5 : 1 to 1 :5, more preferably from 3:1 to 1: 3, and even more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2. (Sugar Ether Surfactant)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one sugar ether surfactant. A single type of sugar ether surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of sugar ether surfactants may be used in combination.

The (c) sugar ether surfactant is a surfactant which has at least one sugar moiety and at least one ether bond. Sugar ether surfactant can be one type of nonionic surfactants.

It is preferable that the (c) sugar ether be selected from alkyl glucoside type surfactants.

The alkyl glucoside type surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of alkyl glucosides and alkyl polyglucosides.

The alkyl glucoside type surfactant may be represented by the following general formula:

R₁O-( R₂O)_t(G)_V wherein

R₂ represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

The reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms represented by G in the above formula may be selected from the group consisting of glucose, fructose and galactose.

The alkyl glucoside type surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, C_12-20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of the alkyl glucoside type surfactant that may be mentioned include decylglucoside (alkyl-C₉/C₁₁-polyglucoside (1.4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP and Plantacare 2000 UP by the company BASF, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CGI 10 by the company SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD70 by the company BASF; laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by the company Henkel; coco-glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of a mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, C_12-20 alkyl glucoside, for example, in the form of a mixture with C_14-22 alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV L by Seppic, and mixtures thereof.

The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) sugar ether surfactants) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 7% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (a) fatty alcohol(s) to the (c) sugar ether surfactants) included in the composition may be from 10:1 to 1 :10, preferably 5 : 1 to 1 :5, more preferably from 3 : 1 to 1 :3 , and even more preferably from 2: 1 to 1 :2.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (b) fatty amide(s) to the (c) sugar ether surfactants) included in the composition may be from 10:1 to 1 :10, preferably 5:1 to 1:5, more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and even more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2.

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant or at least one betaine compound as the (d) ingredient. In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises both of the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least betaine compound as the (d) ingredients.

(Amphoteric Surfactant)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant as the (d) ingredient. A single type of amphoteric surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of amphoteric surfactant may be used in combination.

The amphoteric surfactants), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may be derivatives of optionally quatemized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

The amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C₈-C₂₄)alkylbetaines, (C₈-C₂₄)alkylamido(C₁- C₈)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and (C₈-C₂₄)alkylamido(C₁-C₈)alkylsulphobetaines. In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C₈- C₂₄)alkylbetaines, (C₈-C₂₄)alkylamido(C₁-C₈)alkylsulphobetaines, sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.

The amphoteric surfactant used can be preferably selected from phospholipids. These phospholipids are preferably selected from phosphoacylglycerol, more preferably selected from lecithins.

Lecithin according to the present invention may be from soya, sunflower, egg and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the lecithin is from soya, like the one sold under the name EMULMETIK 100 J by the company CARGILL.

The amount of the (d) amphoteric surfactants) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d) amphoteric surfactants) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d) amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Betaine Compound)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one betaine compound as the (d) ingredient. A single type of betaine compound may be used, or two or more different types of betaine compounds may be used in combination.

The term “betaine compound” here means an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic moiety and a negatively charged anionic moiety, where no hydrogen atom is bound to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic moiety, and the positively charged cationic moiety is not adjacent to the negatively charged anionic moiety.

For the purpose of the present invention, the (d) betaine compound here is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part, such as hydrocarbon groups having 8 or more carbon atoms. Thus, the (d) betaine compound is different from the (d) amphoteric surfactant.

The positively charged cationic moiety in the betaine compound includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic moiety.

The negatively charged anionic moiety in the betaine compound includes, but is not limited to, a carboxylate anion.

The molecular weight of the (d) betaine compound is not particularly limited, but in general 1,000 or less, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 300 or less. Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” may mean a number average molecular weight.

The betaine compound is preferably selected from trimethyl glycine, carnitine, and proline betaine or stachydrine, and more preferably the betaine compound comprises trimethyl glycine.

The amount of the (d) betaine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention is at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the amount of the (d) betaine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 2% by weight or more, preferably 2.5% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d) betaine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 7% by weight or less, and even more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d) betaine compound(s) in the composition may range from 1.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% to 7%, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other Optional Ingredients)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one following optional ingredient. The term "optional" here literally means that the ingredient may or may not be included.

- Water

The composition according to the present invention may include water.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes water.

The amount of the water in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Oil The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The optional ingredient of the oil here is selected from oils other than the (a) fatty alcohol above.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty alcohols other than the (a) fatty alcohol, and fatty acids.

As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.

As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁- C₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁- C₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C₄-C₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C₁-C₂₂ alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C₄-C₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate. As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2- ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C₆-C₁₆ lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol as the optional oil ingredient is selected from fatty alcohols other than the (a) fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms. Thus, the fatty alcohol as the optional oil ingredient may be selected from fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing from 4 to 19 carbon atoms and/or fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing from 27 or more carbon atoms.

The fatty acids that may be used in the composition of the present disclosure may be saturated or unsaturated and comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. As non-limiting examples, they may be chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid.

It may be preferable that the oil be selected from synthetic ester oils, fatty alcohols a carbon chain containing from 4 to 19 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Solid Fatty Compound

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one solid fatty compound. A single type of solid fatty compound or a combination of different types of solid fatty compounds may be used.

Here, “solid fatty compound” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The solid fatty compound may be selected from a group consisting of solid alkanes, nonsilicone oils of animal, plant, mineral, or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohols, non-silicone wax, provided that they are solid at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure. The amount of the solid fatty compound(s) may be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Hydrophilic Thickener

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickener. A single type of hydrophilic thickener or a combination of different types of hydrophilic thickeners may be used.

The term "hydrophilic" here materials which are soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10⁵ Pa).

The hydrophilic thickeners) may be natural or synthetic hydrophilic thickeners). The hydrophilic thickener(s) may be preferentially chosen from thickening polymers bearing sugar units, such as non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.

The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the hydrophilic thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

It is preferable that the thickener be selected from polysaccharides.

Thickening polymers bearing sugar units that may especially be mentioned include native gums such as: a) tree or shrub exudates, including:

- gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);

- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums resulting from algae, including:

- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);

- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) gums resulting from seeds or tubers, including:

- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); d) microbial gums, including:

- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);

- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) plant extracts, including:

- cellulose (glucose polymer);

- starch (glucose polymer) and

- inulin.

These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of the temperature.

Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may especially be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

Preferably, the thickening polymers bearing sugar units are not chemically or physically treated.

The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C₁-C₆ (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the C₁-C₆ (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP 120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

Among the starches that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising base units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary according to the botanical origin of the starches. The botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

The starches may be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

According to the invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

The starches may be optionally C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkylated or C₁-C₆ acylated (such as acetylated). The starches may have also undergone heat treatments.

The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty chain in their structure.

According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via P-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

Thus, the cellulose polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without a C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty chain, i.e. which are "non- associative", mention may be made of (C₁-C₄)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C₄)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Aquaion) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aquaion); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C₁- C₄)alkyl-(C₁-C₄)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses. Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C₁-C₄)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aquaion) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in patent US 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C₄)alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200® and Celquat H 100® by the company National Starch.

The degree of hydroxy alkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, may, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

The amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Cationic Surfactant

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. If two or more cationic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to: those of general formula (B3) below: wherein

R₁, R₂, R₃, and R₄, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. The aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C₂- C₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylamido( C₂- C₆)alkyl, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylacetate, and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C₂-C₆) alkyl sulfates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (B4) below: wherein:

R₅ is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;

R₆ is chosen from hydrogen, C₁-C₄ alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R₇ is chosen from C₁-C₄ alkyl radicals;

R₈ is chosen from hydrogen and C₁-C₄ alkyl radicals; and

X- is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R₅ and R₆ are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R₇ is methyl, and R₈ is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quatemium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;

Di or tri quaternary ammonium salts of formula (B5): wherein:

R₉ is chosen from aliphatic radicals including from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;

R₁₀ is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH₂)₃ (R_16a)(R_17a)(R_18a)N⁺X-. group;

R₁₁, R₁₂, R₁₃, R₁₄, R_16a, R_17a, and R_18a, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

X" is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates.

An example of one such diquatemary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P of FINETEX (Quatemium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quatemium-75); and quaternary ammonium salts including at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6) below: wherein:

R₂₂ is chosen from C₁-C₆ alkyl radicals and C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R₂₃ is chosen from: the radical below: linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C₁-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals R₂₇, and hydrogen,

R₂₅ is chosen from: the radical below: linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R₂₉, and hydrogen,

R₂₄, R₂₆, and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C₇-C₂₁, hydrocarbon-based radicals; r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6; each of rl and tl, which may be identical or different, is 0 or 1, and r2+rl=2r and t1+2t=2t; y is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; X" is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R₂₃ denotes R₂₇, and that when z is 0, R₂₅ denotes R₂₉. R₂₂ may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R₂₂ is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R₂₂ is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When R₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R₂₇, it may be long and include from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and include from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R₂₉, it may include, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of a non-limiting example, in one embodiment,

R₂₄, R₂₆, and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C₁₁-C₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C₁₁-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X' may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and C₁-C₄ alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium including an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X" is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.

In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (B6) may be used, wherein: R₂₂ is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s, and t are equal to 2; R₂₃ is chosen from: the radical below: methyl, ethyl, and C₁₄-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen;

R₂₅ is chosen from: the radical below: and hydrogen;

R₂₄, R₂₆, and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C₁₃-C₁₇ hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl- methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl- dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may include from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound includes several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quatemization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

The quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by the company Van Dyk.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quatemium-80, Quatemium-83, Quatemium-87, Quatemium-22, behenylamidopropy 1-2, 3 -dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. More preferably, the cationic surfactant is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The amount of the cationic surfactant(s) may be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Silicone

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one silicone. A single type of silicone may be used, or two or more different types of silicones may be used in combination.

The silicone may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo- modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional moiety chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties, amine or amino moieties, alkoxy moieties, hydroxylated moieties, acyloxyalkyl moieties, carboxylic acid moieties, hydroxyacylamino moieties, acrylic moieties, polyamine moieties and oxazoline moieties, and silicone-based celluloses.

Silicones suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and nonvolatile, cyclic, linear, and branched silicones, optionally modified with organic moieties, having a viscosity ranging from 5 x 10^-6 to 2.5 m²/s at 25°C, for example, from 1 x 10"⁵ to 1 m²/s.

Silicones that may be used for the present invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and may be, for instance, polyorganosiloxanes that are not soluble in the composition. They may be in a form chosen from fluids, waxes, resins, and gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined, for instance, by Walter NOLL in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60°C to 260°C, for example:

(i) cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for instance, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such siloxanes include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones may also be used, for example, those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345, and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethyl siloxane/methylalkyl siloxane type may also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula wherein:

Combinations of cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes with silicon derived organic compounds may also be used, such as an octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl pentaerythritol (50/50) mixture and an octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2, 2, 2 ',2', 3, 3' -trimethylsilyl oxy) bis-neopentane mixture; and

(ii) linear volatile polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity equal to or less than 5x 10^-6 m²/s at 25°C. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyl tetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32- TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".

In at least one embodiment, the silicones may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, waxes, gums, silicone resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with the hereabove organofimctional moieties.

According to another embodiment, the silicones are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones. The viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 standard Appendix C.

Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include:

SILBIONE® fluids of the series 47 and 70 047 and MIRASIL® fluids marketed by RHODIA, for example, 70 047 fluid V 500 000; fluids of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; fluids of the series 200 marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60,000 mm²/s;

VISCASIL® fluids of GENERAL ELECTRIC and some fluids of the SF series (e.g., SF 96 and SF 18) of GENERAL ELECTRIC; and the fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by DOW CORNING. Polydimethyl siloxanes with dimethyl silanol end groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as fluids of the 48 series marketed by RHODIA.

Products marketed under the trade names "ABIL Wax® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes that are polydialkyl (C₁-C₂₀) siloxanes, may also be used.

Polydimethylsiloxane waxes may also be used.

Silicone gums suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes having high number average molecular weights ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000, alone or as mixtures in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) fluids, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) fluids, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof. Silicone gums may also be chosen, for example, from amodimethicones (aminosilicones), such as the products marketed under the references DC 929 Emulsion and DC 939 Emulsion by DOW CORNING.

According to at least one embodiment, combinations of silicones may also be used, such as: mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the Q2 1401 product marketed by DOW CORNING; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone, such as the SF 1214 Silicone Fluid product marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC, such product being a SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, with a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in the SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, a product corresponding to a decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMS with different viscosities, for example, mixtures of a PDMS gum and a PDMS fluid, such as the SF 1236 product marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC. The SF 1236 product is a mixture of a SE 30 gum such as defined hereabove with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and a SF 96 fluid with a viscosity of 5 x 10^-6 m²/s. Such product may comprise 15% of a SE 30 gum and 85% of a SF 96 fluid.

The organopolysiloxane resins suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, crosslinked siloxane systems comprising at least one of the following units:

R₂SiO_2/2, R₃SiO_1/2, RSiO_3/2, and SiO_4/2, wherein R is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. According to at least one embodiment, R is a lower C₁-C₄ alkyl group, such as a methyl group.

These resins include, for example, the product marketed under the trade name "DOW CORNING 593" and those marketed under the trade names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by GENERAL ELECTRIC, that are dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structured silicones.

Resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type may also be used, for instance, those marketed under the trade names X22-4914, X21-5034, and X21-5037 by SHIN-ETSU.

Polyalkylaryl siloxanes may be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenyl siloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1 x10^-5 to 5x10^-2 m²/s at 25°C. Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl siloxanes include the products marketed under the following trade names:

SILBIONE® fluids of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids of the 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; phenyl trimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;

PK series silicones from BAYER, for example, the PK20 product;

PN, PH series silicones from BAYER, for example, the PN1000 and PHI 000 products; and some SF series fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

Organomodified silicones which may be used for the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those previously defined and comprising within their structure at least one organofunctional moiety linked by means of a hydrocarbon group.

Organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy moieties optionally comprising C₆-C₂₄ alkyl moieties, such as products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and SIL WET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 fluids marketed by UNION CARBIDE and (C₁₂)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200; optionally substituted amine moieties, for example, the products marketed under the trade name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. Substituted amine moieties may be chosen, for example, from amino C₁-C₄ alkyl moieties.

Aminosilicones may have additional C₁-C₄ alkoxy functional groups; alkoxylated moieties, such as the product marketed under the trade name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434, and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxylated moieties, such as hydroxyalkyl function-containing polyorganosiloxanes described, for instance, in French Patent Application No. FR-A-85 163 34; acyloxyalkyl moieties, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and carboxylic alkyl anionic moieties, such as those present in the X-22-3701E product marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2- hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names «ABIL® S201» and «ABIL® S255»; hydroxyacylamino moieties, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European Patent Application No. 0342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the Q2-8413 product marketed by DOW CORNING; acrylic moieties, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; polyamine moieties, and oxazoline moieties silicones that may be used for the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2- ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). The products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 may also be used.

Suitable silicone-based celluloses which may be used for the present invention include the products marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the references X-22-8401 and X-22-8404.

It is preferable that the silicone be selected from the group consisting of dimethicones, amodimethicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the silicone(s) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- pH Adjusting Agent

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted to the desired value using at least one pH adjusting agent, such as an acidifying or a basifying agent, for example, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 8, preferably 3.5 to 7.0, and more preferably from 4.0 to 6.0.

Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

The pH adjusting agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Optional Ingredient

The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, optional ingredient(s) typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants/emulsifiers other than the (b) fatty amide and the (c) sugar ether surfactant; lipophilic thickeners; cosmetically acceptable volatile or non-volatile organic solvents; polyols; cationic, anionic, nonionic, or amphoteric polymers; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; waxes; preservatives; antioxidants; salts; and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredients) in an amount of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto keratinous fibers.

The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a rinse-off cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair. The term “rinse-off” here means that the composition according to the present invention is removed, by rinsing, from keratinous fibers after being applied onto the keratinous fibers. The rinsing can be performed with, for example, water.

Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a hair cosmetic composition, preferably a hair care cosmetic composition.

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.

If necessary, the above essential or optional ingredients may be heated. Thus, heating may be performed when mixing the above essential and optional ingredients.

The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer.

[Form]

The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic, or oily solution or suspension; a solution or a dispersion of a lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of O/W, W/O or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of a soft consistency of cream (O/W) or (W/O) type; an aqueous gel; or any other cosmetic form, and preferably an emulsion.

The compositions used for the present invention may be in any galenical forms. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, a lotion, a gel, or the like.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of O/W emulsion.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for treating, preferably condition and/or caring for keratinous fibers such as hair.

[Cosmetic Process and Use] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process or use for conditioning or caring for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: applying to the keratinous fiber the composition comprising:

(b) at least one fatty amide;

(c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and

(d) at least one of amphoteric surfactants or betaine compounds, wherein when the at least one betaine compound is included as the (d) ingredient, the amount of the betaine compound is at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and optionally rinsing off the composition from the keratinous fibers.

The application of the composition may be performed by any means, such as a brush, a comb, and hands.

The cosmetic process or use according to the present invention may be performed with heating the keratinous fibers, preferably hair. Thus, the cosmetic process according to the present invention may further comprise a step of heating keratinous fiber, preferably hair, after the step of applying to the keratinous fibers the composition and prior to the optional rinsing step.

The temperature of the heating is not limited, and it can be, for example, more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, and more preferably more than 150°C. The heating temperature may be less than 250°C.

The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating device but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

The heating can be carried out with conventional means, such as applying a dryer.

The optional step of rinsing off the composition from the keratinous fibers can be carried out with water.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition comprising:

(b) at least one fatty amide;

(c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and

(d) at least one of amphoteric surfactants or betaine compounds, wherein when the at least one betaine compound is included as the (d) ingredient, the amount of the betaine compound is at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, as a hair care or hair conditioning composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises relative to the total weight of the composition: (a) from 0.5% to 20% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol selected from linear and saturated fatty alcohols, such as arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(b) from 0.5% to 20% by weight of at least one fatty amide chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof;

(c) from 0.5% to 20% at least one sugar ether surfactant selected from alkyl glucoside type surfactants; and

(d) from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from phospholipids; or at least trimethyl glycine in an amount of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises relative to the total weight of the composition:

(a) from 3% to 7% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol selected from linear and saturated fatty alcohols, such as arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(b) from 3% to 7% by weight at least one fatty amide chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof;

(c) from 2% to 7% of at least one alkyl glucoside type surfactant selected from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, C₁₂-20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.; and

(d) from 0.5% to 3% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from phosphoacylglycerol, more preferably selected from lecithins ; or at least trimethyl glycine in an amount of at least 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In consideration of the effects of imparting improved softness and smoothness to the hair of the composition according to the present invention, the cosmetic process and use according to the present invention can provide the keratinous fibers with good conditioning effects.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Preparations]

Each of the compositions in the form of an O/W emulsion according to Example 1 A and Comparative Examples 1 A and 2 A was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 A. When melting behenyl alcohol, thickeners, and the like, it was heated up to 70°C until the ingredient was completely melted. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 1 A are ail based on “% by weight” of ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated - AM: Active material.

[Evaluation]

2.7 g of a Chinese bleached hair swatch in length of 27 cm was prepared. Each of the hair swatches was washed with a clarifying shampoo once. After shampooing, the hair swatch was rinsed with water, and dried with a towel. 1 g of each of the compositions according to Example 1 A and Comparative Examples 1 A and 2 A was applied onto the hair swatch, then the hair swatch was posed for 5 minutes under ambient condition. The hair swatch was then rinsed off with water and blow-dried to obtain the treated hair swatch.

(Softening Efficacy)

Softening efficacy on the hair was evaluated by several panellists with scoring 1 to 4 in accordance with the following criteria and averaged.

1 : the hair was not soft

2: the hair was slightly soft

3: the hair was moderately soft

4: the hair was very soft

(Pearlescence Intensity)

Evaluation of the pearlescent effect was carried out by visually observing the composition with the following criteria and averaged.

1 : the composition was not pearlescent

2: the composition was slightly pearlescent

3: the composition was moderately pearlescent

4: the composition was very pearlescent

The results are shown in Table 1 A below.

Table 1A

* 1 : sold by DOW under the commercial name of XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION (containing 56% to 61% of active material)

*2: sold by BASF under the commercial name of PLANT AREN 2000 UP (containing approximately 53% of active material)

As can be seen from the tables, the compositions according to Example 1 A, which include the specific combination of the ingredients of the (a) to (d), exhibited an improved softening efficacy on the keratinous fibers of hair. Moreover, the composition exhibits improved pearlescent effect.

On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Example 1 A, which do not include the (d) amphoteric surfactant, could not show good softening efficacy on the keratinous fibers. The pearlescent effect of the Comparative Composition 1 A is moderate. Also, the composition according to Comparative Example 2A, which includes colorant caramel instead of the amphoteric surfactant, could show well pearlescence effect, but the softening effect was inferior.

Accordingly, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous substances, since it can provide attractive appearance by the improved pearlescence effect while providing keratinous fibers with the improved cosmetic effect.

[Preparations] Each of the compositions in the form of a O/W emulsion according to Example IB and Comparative Examples IB and 2B was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table IB. When melting behenyl alcohol, thickeners, and the like, it was heated up to 70°C until the ingredient was completely melted. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table IB are all based on “% by weight” of ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated - AM: Active material.

[Evaluation]

(Viscosity)

The viscosity of the obtained composition was measured with a Rheomat RM 180 rheometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle at 25 °C. The measurement was carried out for 30 seconds after rotating the spindle in the composition for 1 minutes at 200 rpm.

(Sensory Assessment)

2.7 g of a Chinese bleached hair swatch in length of 27 cm was prepared. Each of the hair swatches was washed with a clarifying shampoo once. After shampooing, the hair swatch was rinsed with water, and dried with a towel. 1 g of each of the compositions according to Example IB and Comparative Examples IB and 2B was applied onto the hair swatch, then the hair swatch was posed for 5 minutes under ambient condition. The hair swatch was then rinsed off with water and blow-dried to obtain the treated hair swatch.

Sensory aspects of softness and smoothness of the treated hair was evaluated by several panellists in a hair care field with scoring 1 to 3 in accordance with the following criteria and averaged.

- Softness

1 : the softness of the hair was not perceived 2: the softness of the hair was slightly perceived 3 : the softness of the hair was well perceived

- Smoothness

1 : the smoothness of the hair was not perceived 2: the smoothness of the hair was slightly perceived 3 : the smoothness of the hair was well perceived

The results are shown in Table IB below.

Table IB

*

: sold by DOW under the commercial name of XIAMETER MEM-8299

EMULSION (containing 56% to 61% of active material)

*2: sold by BASF under the commercial name of PLANTAREN 2000 UP (containing approximately 53% of active material)

As can be seen from the tables, the compositions according to Example IB, which include the specific combination of the ingredients of the (a) to (d), exhibited an improved softening and smoothening efficacy and a desired increased viscosity. Because the composition exhibits improved conditioning effects, such as effects imparting softness and smoothness to keratinous fibers, it can be said that it does not weigh down the keratinous fibers.

On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Example IB, which do not include the (d) betaine compound, could not show good softening and smoothening efficacy on the keratinous fibers. In addition, the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was not enough. Also, the composition according to Comparative Example 2B, which includes only 1% by weight of the betaine compound, could not show good softening and smoothening efficacy on the keratinous fibers. In addition, the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 2B was not enough.

Accordingly, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair, since it can provide keratinous fibers with the improved cosmetic effect of softening and smoothening the keratinous fibers, as well as can exhibit an increased, desired viscosity without weighing down the hair.

Claims

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, comprising

(b) at least one fatty amide;

(c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and

2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) fatty alcohol has a carbon chain containing from 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (b) fatty amide is selected from those formed by reacting an alkanolamine and a C₄-C₂₈ fatty acid.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (b) fatty amide is chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the (b) fatty amide(s) in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (c) sugar ether surfactant is selected from alkyl glucoside type surfactants.

8. The composition according to Claim 7, wherein the alkyl glucoside type surfactant is represented by the following general formula:

R₁O-(R₂O)_t(G)_V wherein

R₂ represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

9. The composition according to Claim 7 or 8, wherein the alkyl glucoside type surfactant is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, C_12-20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one (d) amphoteric surfactant selected from phospholipids.

12. The composition according to Claim 11, wherein the (d) amphoteric surfactant is selected from phosphoacylglycerol, more preferably selected from lecithins.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one (d) betaine compound selected from trimethyl glycine, carnitine, and proline betaine.

14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the both of the at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one betaine compound as the (d) ingredient.

15. A cosmetic process for conditioning or caring for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: applying to the keratinous fiber the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14; and optionally rinsing off the composition from the keratinous fibers.