FR3159898A3 - COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING A BETAINE COMPOUND - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING A BETAINE COMPOUND The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms; (b) at least one fatty amide; (c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and (d) at least one betaine compound in an amount of at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is suitable for a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic hair care composition. Figure for abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING A BETAINE COMPOUND

The present invention relates to a composition for keratinous fibers comprising at least one betaine compound, in particular a hair care composition comprising at least one betaine compound, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition.

STATE OF THE ART

It is well known that the smoothing and softening effect of hair-related products is widely acclaimed by customers. It is also well known that a hair conditioner is recommended for the treatment of damaged hair that has been sensitized (i.e., damaged and/or weakened) to varying degrees by the action of an atmospheric agent or by the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as dyeing, bleaching and/or permanent waving operations. When damaged, hair is often difficult to detangle and lacks softness. It is well known in the art to use a hair conditioner in compositions for washing or caring for hair in order to facilitate detangling of the hair and to obtain the softening and smoothing effect.

Some of the prior art discloses compositions for the care of keratinous fibers.

For example, WO 2013/189037 discloses a personal care composition comprising a pearl conditioning composition comprising: a) at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms, b) at least one fatty amide,

c) at least one alkylpolyglycoside, and d) at least one revitalizing agent.

However, there is still a demand for cosmetic compositions that can provide keratinous fibers with enhanced conditioning effects, such as effects that impart softness and smooth texture to keratinous fibers, and that have increased viscosity because viscosity is essential to provide consumers with conditioning cues.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with an improved conditioning effect, such as effects imparting softness and smooth texture to the keratinous fibers, and which has an increased viscosity without weighing down the keratinous fibers such as hair.

1. au moins un alcool gras ayant une chaîne carbonée contenant de 20 à 26 atomes de carbone ;
2. au moins un amide gras ;
3. au moins un tensioactif éther de sucre ; et
4. au moins un composé bétaïne en une quantité d’au moins 1,5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:

1. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms;
2. at least one fatty amide;
3. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and
4. at least one betaine compound in an amount of at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(a) Fatty alcohol may have a carbon chain containing from 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

The amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) fatty amide may be chosen from those formed by reaction of an alkanolamine and a C ₄ -C ₂₈ fatty acid.

The (b) fatty amide may be selected from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the (b) fatty amide(s) in the composition may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) sugar ether surfactant may be selected from alkyl glucoside surfactants.

The alkyl glucoside surfactant can be represented by the following general formula:

R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t (G) _v

• R₁représente un atome d’hydrogène ou un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié contenant de 1 à 30, de préférence 6 à 28, et plus préférentiellement 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, ou un radical aralkyle contenant de 7 à 30, de préférence 7 à 28, et plus préférentiellement 7 à 26 atomes de carbone, à condition qu’au moins l’un des R₁désigne un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié contenant de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone ;
• R²représente un radical alkylène contenant de 2 à 4 atomes de carbone ;
• G représente un sucre réduit contenant 5 ou 6 atomes de carbone ;
• t désigne une valeur allant de 0 à 10 ; et
• v désigne une valeur allant de 1 à 15.

in which

• R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, and more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl radical containing from 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, and more preferably 7 to 26 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of R ₁ denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
• R ² represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
• G represents a reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms;
• t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10; and
• v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

The alkyl glucoside may be selected from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, C _12-20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (d) betaine compound may be selected from trimethyl glycine, carnitine and proline betaine.

The amount of the betaine compound(s) in the composition may range from 1.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to any one of the preceding claims may further comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably chosen from phospholipids, more preferably chosen from phosphoacylglycerol, and even more preferably chosen from lecithins.

The amount of the amphiphilic surfactant(s) in the composition may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for revitalizing or caring for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising:

the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and

optional rinsing of the composition of keratinous fibers.

After extensive research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that adding the specific amount of the (d) betaine compound to the combination of ingredients (a) to (c) can increase the viscosity of the composition without weighing down the keratinous fibers such as hair, as well as imparting improved softness and smooth texture to the hair, and thus finalized the invention.

1. au moins un alcool gras ayant une chaîne carbonée contenant de 20 à 26 atomes de carbone ;
2. au moins un amide gras ;
3. au moins un tensioactif éther de sucre ; et
4. au moins un composé bétaïne en une quantité d’au moins 1,5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

1. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms;
2. at least one fatty amide;
3. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and
4. at least one betaine compound in an amount of at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with an improved softening and smoothing effect. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be intended for the revitalization and/or care of keratinous fibers.

The term "keratinous fibers" herein refers to fibers containing keratin as a main constituent, and examples thereof include hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and the like. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers and, more preferably, hair.

The composition according to the present invention can also increase the viscosity of the composition without weighing down keratinous fibers such as hair. Thus, keratinous fibers treated with the composition according to the present invention can exhibit a desired viscous property. The viscosity of cosmetic compositions, especially hair care cosmetic compositions, is very important because it is essential to provide repair cues to consumers. The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly discovered that adding the specific amount of the (d) betaine compound to the specific combinations of ingredients (a) to (c) can achieve appropriate viscosity as well as revitalizing effects.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Composition]

1. au moins un alcool gras ayant une chaîne carbonée contenant de 20 à 26 atomes de carbone ;
2. au moins un amide gras ;
3. au moins un tensioactif éther de sucre ; et
4. au moins un composé bétaïne en une quantité d’au moins 1,5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.

The composition according to the present invention comprises:

1. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms;
2. at least one fatty amide;
3. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and
4. at least one betaine compound in an amount of at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

(Fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

The carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol is a saturated carbon chain.

The carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Preferably, the carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol is a linear carbon chain.

In a preferred embodiment, the carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol is a linear and saturated carbon chain.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 24 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C ₂₀ -C ₂₄ alkyl and C ₂₀ -C ₂₄ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is a linear and saturated radical containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

Examples of (a) fatty alcohol include arachidonic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, erucic acid, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the (a) fatty alcohol is selected from linear and saturated fatty alcohols, such as arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 7% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution.

In the context of this patent specification, any combination of the above upper limit values and lower limit values may be available to represent the preferred range of the quantity.

(Fatty amide)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty amide. Only one type of fatty amide may be used, but two or more different types of fatty amide may be used in combination.

The term "fatty amide" may herein refer to a reaction product of a fatty acid or fatty acid ester with an alkanolamine. Fatty amide may be a type of nonionic surfactant.

The term "fatty acid" here refers to a monofunctional carboxylic acid with an aliphatic chain containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms.

The fatty acid may be linear or branched. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear fatty acids. The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids and unsaturated fatty acids having 1 or 2 carbon-carbon double bonds.

Non-limiting examples of the fatty acid include saturated or unsaturated linear fatty acids having from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular, the fatty acid may include a mixture of two or more saturated and unsaturated linear fatty acids having from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

The fatty acid of the fatty amide may be monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, and for example may be polyoxyethylenated. Preferably, the fatty acid is not monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated.

The term “alkanolamine” herein means a compound having an alkane skeleton with at least one hydroxy group and at least one amine group.

The alkane skeleton of the alkanolamine may be linear or branched, and may have 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 6, carbon atoms.

The amine group of the alkanolamine may be a primary amine group or a secondary amine group. Preferably, the amine group of the alkanolamine is a primary amine group.

The (b) fatty amide may include those formed by reaction of an alkanolamine and a C ₄ -C ₂₈ fatty acid. These surfactants may be selected from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and preferably from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids or C ₈ -C ₂₀ fatty acids, and may have a C _{2-3 hydroxyalkyl group.}

The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid monoalkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

R ₁ -C(O)-NH-R ₂

• R₁représente un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence linéaire, contenant de 4 à 28, de préférence 6 à 24, et plus préférentiellement 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, ou un radical alcényle contenant de 4 à 28, de préférence 6 à 24, et plus préférentiellement 8 à 22 atomes de carbone ;
• R₂représente un radical hydroxyalkyle contenant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone. Le terme « hydroxyalkyle » désigne un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié dans lequel au moins un atome d’hydrogène est substitué par un groupe hydroxy (-OH). L’hydroxyalkyle peut inclure un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxy, mais de préférence un groupe hydroxy.

in which

• R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably linear, containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms;
• R ₂ represents a hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The term "hydroxyalkyl" means a linear or branched alkyl radical in which at least one hydrogen atom is substituted by a hydroxy group (-OH). The hydroxyalkyl may include one or more hydroxy groups, but preferably one hydroxy group.

In a preferred embodiment, R ₂ represents a hydroxyalkyl radical where a hydroxy group is located at a terminal of the alkyl chain, i.e. the hydroxyalkyl comprises a primary alcohol radical. Thus, the b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid monoalkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

R ₁ -C(O)-NH-R ₃ -CH ₂ OH

• R₁représente un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié contenant de 4 à 28, de préférence 6 à 24, et plus préférentiellement 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, ou un radical alcényle contenant de 4 à 28, de préférence 6 à 24, et plus préférentiellement 8 à 22 atomes de carbone ;
• R₃représente une simple liaison ou un radical alkylène linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence linéaire, contenant de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone.

in which

• R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms;
• R ₃ represents a single bond or a linear or branched alkylene radical, preferably linear, containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid di-alkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

R ₁ -C(O)-N(R ₂ ) ₂

• R₁représente un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence linéaire, contenant de 4 à 28, de préférence 6 à 24, et plus préférentiellement 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, ou un radical alcényle contenant de 4 à 28, de préférence 6 à 24, et plus préférentiellement 8 à 22 atomes de carbone ;
• les R₂représentent, identiques ou différents, un radical hydroxyalkyle contenant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone. Le terme « hydroxyalkyle » désigne un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié dans lequel au moins un atome d’hydrogène est substitué par un groupe hydroxy (-OH). L’hydroxyalkyle peut inclure un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxy, mais de préférence un groupe hydroxy.

in which

• R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably linear, containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms;
• R ₂ represent, identical or different, a hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The term "hydroxyalkyl" denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical in which at least one hydrogen atom is substituted by a hydroxy group (-OH). The hydroxyalkyl may include one or more hydroxy groups, but preferably one hydroxy group.

The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid di-alkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

R ₁ -C(O)-N(R ₃ -CH ₂ OH) ₂

• R₁représente un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié contenant de 4 à 28, de préférence 6 à 24, et plus préférentiellement 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, ou un radical alcényle contenant de 4 à 28, de préférence 6 à 24, et plus préférentiellement 8 à 22 atomes de carbone ;
• R₃représente une simple liaison ou un radical alkylène linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence linéaire, contenant de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone.

in which

• R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms;
• R ₃ represents a single bond or a linear or branched alkylene radical, preferably linear, containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Examples of (b) fatty amide include, but are not limited to:

oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut isopropanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MEA), coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, lauric isopropanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the (b) fatty amide is selected from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

The (b) fatty amide(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) fatty amide(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, even more preferably 7% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty amide(s) (b) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (a) fatty alcohol(s) to the (b) fatty amide(s) included in the composition may be from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 5:1 to 1:5, and more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and even more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2.

(Sugar ether surfactant)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one sugar ether surfactant. A single type of sugar ether surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of sugar ether surfactants may be used in combination.

(c) Sugar ether surfactant is a surfactant that has at least one sugar moiety and at least one ether bond. Sugar ether surfactant may be a type of nonionic surfactants.

It is preferable that the (c) sugar ether is selected from alkyl glucoside type surfactants.

The alkyl glucoside surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of alkyl glucosides and alkyl polyglucosides.

The alkyl glucoside surfactant can be represented by the following general formula:

R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t (G) _v

• R₁représente un atome d’hydrogène ou un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié contenant de 1 à 30, de préférence 6 à 28, et plus préférentiellement 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, ou un radical aralkyle contenant de 7 à 30, de préférence 7 à 28, et plus préférentiellement 7 à 26 atomes de carbone, à condition qu’au moins l’un des R₁désigne un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié contenant de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone ;
• R²représente un radical alkylène contenant de 2 à 4 atomes de carbone ;
• G représente un sucre réduit contenant 5 ou 6 atomes de carbone ;
• t désigne une valeur allant de 0 à 10 ; et
• v désigne une valeur allant de 1 à 15.

in which

• R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, and more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl radical containing from 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, and more preferably 7 to 26 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of R ₁ denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
• R ² represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
• G represents a reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms;
• t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10; and
• v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

The reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms represented by G in the above formula may be selected from the group consisting of glucose, fructose and galactose.

The alkyl glucoside surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, C _12-20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of alkylpolyglucoside surfactants that may be mentioned include decylglucoside (alkyl-C ₉ /C ₁₁ -polyglucoside (1.4)), for example the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP and Plantacare 2000 UP by BASF, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS10 by SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside for example the product sold under the name Oramix CG110 by SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD70 by BASF; laurylglucoside for example the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by Henkel; coco-glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of a mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, a C _12-20 alkyl glucoside, for example, in the form of a mixture with C _14-22 alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV L by Seppic, and their mixtures.

The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, even more preferably 7% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (a) fatty alcohol(s) to the (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) included in the composition may be from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 5:1 to 1:5, more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and even more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (b) fatty amide(s) to the (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) included in the composition may be from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 5:1 to 1:5, more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2.

(Betaine compound)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one betaine compound. A single type of specific betaine compound may be used, or two or more different types of betaine compounds may be used in combination.

The term "betaine compound" herein means an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic moiety and a negatively charged anionic moiety, wherein no hydrogen atom is bonded to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic moiety, and the positively charged cationic moiety is not adjacent to the negatively charged anionic moiety.

For the purposes of the present invention, the (d) betaine compound herein is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic portion and at least one hydrophobic portion, such as hydrocarbon groups having 8 or more carbon atoms.

The positively charged cationic moiety in the betaine compound includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine compound includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic moiety.

The negatively charged anionic moiety in the betaine compound includes, but is not limited to, a carboxylate anion.

The molecular weight of the (d) betaine compound is not particularly limited, but is generally 1000 or less, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 300 or less. Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means a number-average molecular weight.

The betaine compound is preferably selected from trimethyl glycine, carnitine and proline betaine or stachydrine, and more preferably the betaine compound comprises trimethyl glycine.

The amount of the (d) betaine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention is at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the amount of the (d) betaine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 2% by weight or more, preferably 2.5% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d) betaine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 7% by weight or less, and even more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the betaine compound(s) in the composition may range from 1.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other optional ingredients)

- Water

The composition according to the present invention may include water.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes water.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more and, more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 85% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Oil

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The optional oil ingredient herein is selected from oils other than the above (a) fatty alcohol.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty alcohols other than (a) fatty alcohol, and fatty acids.

Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the monohydric alcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Examples of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols include ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Also useful are esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C _{22 alcohols,} and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and, preferably, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, e.g. methylglucose.

The fatty acid sugar esters may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, including monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, Isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

• les alcanes inférieurs en C₆-C₁₆, linéaires ou ramifiés, facultativement cycliques. Des exemples qui peuvent être cités incluent hexane, undécane, dodécane, tridécane et isoparaffines, par exemple isohexadécane, isododécane et isodécane ; et
• les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés contenant plus de 16 atomes de carbone, tels que paraffines liquides, gelée de pétrole liquide, polydécènes et polyisobutènes hydrogénés tels que Parleam® et squalane.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

• lower alkanes C ₆ -C ₁₆ , linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
• linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

Preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum jelly, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol as an optional oily ingredient is selected from fatty alcohols other than (a) fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms. Thus, the fatty alcohol as an optional oily ingredient may be selected from fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing from 4 to 19 carbon atoms and/or fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing from 27 carbon atoms or more.

The fatty acids that may be used in the composition of the present disclosure may be saturated or unsaturated and comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. As non-limiting examples, they may be selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

It may be preferable that the oil be selected from synthetic ester oils, fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing from 4 to 19 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Solid fatty compound

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one solid fatty compound. A single type of solid fatty compound or a combination of different types of solid fatty compounds may be used.

Herein “solid fatty compound” means a fatty compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The solid fatty compound may be selected from a group consisting of solid alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of a fatty acid and/or a fatty alcohol, non-silicone wax, provided that they are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The amount of the solid fatty compound(s) may be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

-Hydrophilic thickener

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickener. A single type of hydrophilic thickener or a combination of different types of hydrophilic thickeners may be used.

The term "hydrophilic" herein refers to materials soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

The hydrophilic thickener(s) may be natural or synthetic hydrophilic thickener(s). The hydrophilic thickener(s) may preferably be selected from thickening polymers bearing sugar units, such as non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “sugar unit” means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.

The sugar units can optionally be modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

The sugar units that may be included in the hydrophilic thickening polymers of the present invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

It is better to choose the thickener from polysaccharides.

1. les exsudats d'arbre ou d'arbuste, incluant :

• la gomme arabique (polymère ramifié de galactose, d'arabinose, de rhamnose et d'acide glucuronique) ;
• la gomme ghatti (polymère dérivé d'arabinose, de galactose, de mannose, de xylose et d'acide glucuronique) ;
• la gomme karaya (polymère dérivé d'acide galacturonique, de galactose, de rhamnose et d'acide glucuronique) ;
• la gomme adragante (polymère d'acide galacturonique, de galactose, de fucose, de xylose et d'arabinose) ;

1. les gommes issues d’algues, incluant :

• l'agar-agar (polymère dérivé de galactose et d'anhydrogalactose) ;
• les alginates (polymères d'acide mannuronique et d'acide glucuronique) ;
• les carraghénanes et furcelleranes (polymères de sulfate de galactose et de sulfate d'anhydrogalactose) ;

1. les gommes issues de graines ou de tubercules, incluant :

• la gomme de guar (polymère de mannose et de galactose) ;
• la gomme de caroube (polymère de mannose et de galactose) ;
• la gomme de fenugrec (polymère de mannose et de galactose) ;
• la gomme de tamarin (polymère de galactose, de xylose et de glucose) ;
• la gomme de konjac (polymère de glucose et de mannose) ;

1. les gommes microbiennes, incluant :

• la gomme de xanthane (polymère de glucose, d'acétate de mannose, de mannose/acide pyruvique et d'acide glucuronique) ;
• la gomme de gellane (polymère de glucose partiellement acylé, de rhamnose et d'acide glucuronique) ;
• la gomme de scléroglucane (polymère de glucose) ;

1. les extraits végétaux, incluant :

• la cellulose (polymère de glucose) ;
• l'amidon (polymère de glucose) et
• l’inuline.

Thickening polymers containing sugar units which may be cited include native gums such as:

1. tree or shrub exudates, including:

• gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
• gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);
• karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
• tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

1. gums from algae, including:

• agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
• alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);
• carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);

1. gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:

• guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
• carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
• fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
• tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);
• konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

1. microbial gums, including:

• xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);
• gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
• scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

1. plant extracts, including:

• cellulose (glucose polymer);
• starch (glucose polymer) and
• inulin.

These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. A physical treatment that can be particularly addressed is temperature.

Chemical treatments that can be cited include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that can be nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

Preferably, the thickening polymers bearing sugar units are not chemically or physically treated.

The non-ionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be modified with C ₁ -C ₆ (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

Examples of _C1 - _C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

Among the starches that can be used, we can cite, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic units that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) from amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

The botanical origin of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are selected, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

Starches can be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

According to the invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

Starches may be optionally _C1 - _C6 hydroxyalkylated or _C1 - _C6 acylated (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a C ₁₀ - C ₃₀ fatty chain in their structure.

According to the invention, the expression " cellulose-based polymer" designates any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

Among these cellulose-based polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers.

Cellulose esters include inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/inorganic cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates. Cellulose ester ethers include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty chain, i.e. which are "non-associative", we can cite (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl-(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical); hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylcelluloses and their salts. For example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

The amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Cationic surfactant

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. If two or more cationic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be cited include, but are not limited to:

those of general formula (B3) below:
(B3)

• R₁, R₂, R₃, et R₄, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux aliphatiques linéaires et ramifiés incluant de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone et incluant facultativement des hétéroatomes tels que l’oxygène, l’azote, le soufre et les halogènes. Les radicaux aliphatiques peuvent être choisis, par exemple, parmi les radicaux alkyle, alcoxy, polyoxyalkylène en C₂-C₆alkylamide, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂-C₆)alkyle, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylacétate et hydroxyalkyle ; et les radicaux aromatiques tels que aryle et alkylaryle ; et X^-est choisi parmi les halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, (C₂-C₆)alkyl sulfates et alkyl- ou alkylaryl-sulfonates ;

in which

• R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ , which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched aliphatic radicals including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. The aliphatic radicals may be selected, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene C ₂ -C ₆ alkylamide, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylamido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylacetate, and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X ^- is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl sulfates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates;

imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts, for example those of formula (B4) below:
(B4)

• R₅est choisi parmi les radicaux alcényle et alkyle incluant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, par exemple les dérivés d’acides gras de suif ou de coco ;
• R₆est choisi parmi l'hydrogène, les radicaux alkyle en C₁-C_4,et les radicaux alcényle et alkyle incluant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone ;
• R₇est choisi parmi les radicaux alkyle en C₁-C₄;
• R₈est choisi parmi l'hydrogène et les radicaux alkyle en C₁-C₄; et
• X^-est choisi parmi les halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates et alkylaryl sulfonates. Dans un mode de réalisation, R₅et R₆sont, par exemple, un mélange de radicaux choisis parmi les radicaux alcényle et alkyle incluant de 12 à 21 atomes de carbone, tels que des dérivés d’acide gras de suif, R₇est méthyle et R₈est hydrogène. Des exemples de ces produits incluent, sans toutefois s'y limiter, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) et Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), qui sont vendus sous les noms « Rewoquat® » W75, W90, W/75PG et W75HPG par la société Witco ;

in which:

• R ₅ is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derivatives of tallow or coconut fatty acids;
• R ₆ is chosen from hydrogen, C ₁ -C _{4 alkyl radicals,} and alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
• R ₇ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals;
• R ₈ is selected from hydrogen and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals; and
• X ^- is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are, for example, a mixture of radicals selected from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, R ₇ is methyl and R ₈ is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names “Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W/75PG and W75HPG by Witco;

Quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts of formula (B5):
(B5)

• R₉est choisi parmi les radicaux aliphatiques incluant de 16 à 30 atomes de carbone ;
• R₁₀est choisi parmi l'hydrogène ou les radicaux alkyle incluant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ou un groupe -(CH₂)₃(R_16a)(R_17a)(R_18a)N⁺X-_-;
• R₁₁, R₁₂, R₁₃, R₁₄, R_16a, R_17aet R_18a, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène et les radicaux alkyle incluant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ; et
• X^-est choisi parmi les halogénures, les acétates, les phosphates, les nitrates, les éthyl sulfates et les méthyl sulfates.

in which:

• R ₉ is chosen from aliphatic radicals including from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
• R ₁₀ is selected from hydrogen or alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH ₂ ) ₃ (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N ⁺ X- _- ;
• R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a and R _18a , which may be the same or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
• X ^- is selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates.

An example of such a quaternary diammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P from FINETEX (Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75);

And

quaternary ammonium salts including at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6) below:
(B6)

• R₂₂est choisi parmi les radicaux alkyle en C₁-C₆et les radicaux hydroxyalkyle et dihydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₆;
• R₂₃est choisi parmi :

in which:

• R ₂₂ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radicals and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
• R ₂₃ is chosen from:

the radical below:
,

the radicals R ₂₇ based on saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbons, and hydrogen,

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

the radical below:
,

• -R₂₄, R₂₆et R₂₈, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les groupes à base d'hydrocarbures en C₇à C₂₁saturés et insaturés, linéaires et ramifiés ;
• r, s et t, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi des entiers allant de 2 à 6 ;

the radicals R ₂₉ based on saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbons, and hydrogen,

• -R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups based on saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C ₇ to C ₂₁ hydrocarbons;
• r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6;

• y est choisi parmi un entier allant de 1 à 10 ;
• x et z, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi des entiers allant de 0 à 10 ;
• X^-est choisi parmi les anions simples et complexes, organiques et inorganiques ; à condition que la somme x+y+z aille de 1 à 15, que lorsque x est égal à 0, R₂₃désigne R₂₇et que lorsque z est égal à 0, R₂₅désigne R₂₉. R₂₂peut être choisi parmi les radicaux alkyle linéaires et ramifiés. Dans un mode de réalisation, R₂₂est choisi parmi les radicaux alkyle linéaires. Dans un autre mode de réalisation, R₂₂est choisi parmi les radicaux méthyle, éthyle, hydroxyéthyle et dihydroxypropyle, par exemple les radicaux méthyle et éthyle. Dans un mode de réalisation, la somme x+y+z va de 1 à 10. Lorsque R₂₃est un radical à base d'hydrocarbures R₂₇, il peut être long et inclure de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, ou court et inclure de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone. Lorsque R₂₅est un radical à base d'hydrocarbures R₂₉, il peut inclure, par exemple, de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone. À titre d’exemple non limitatif, dans un mode de réalisation, R₂₄, R₂₆et R₂₈, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux à base d'hydrocarbures en C₁₁-C₂₁linéaires et ramifiés, saturés et insaturés, par exemple parmi les radicaux alkyle et alcényle en C₁₁-C₂₁linéaires et ramifiés, saturés et insaturés. Dans un autre mode de réalisation, x et z, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, valent 0 ou 1. Dans un mode de réalisation, y est égal à 1. Dans un autre mode de réalisation, r, s et t, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont égaux à 2 ou 3, par exemple égaux à 2. L’anion X^-peut être choisi, par exemple, parmi les halogénures, tels que le chlorure, le bromure et l’iodure ; et les alkyl sulfates en C₁-C_4,tels que le méthyl sulfate. Cependant, le méthanesulfonate, le phosphate, le nitrate, le tosylate, un anion dérivé d’un acide organique, tel que l’acétate et le lactate, et tout autre anion qui est compatible avec l’ammonium incluant une fonction ester, sont d’autres exemples non limitatifs d’anions qui peuvent être utilisés selon la présente invention. Dans un mode de réalisation, l’anion X^-est choisi parmi le chlorure et le méthyl sulfate.

each of r1 and t1, which may be the same or different, is equal to 0 or 1, and r2+r1=2r and t1+2t=2t;

• y is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
• x and z, which may be the same or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
• X ^- is selected from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; provided that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R ₂₃ is R ₂₇ and that when z is 0, R ₂₅ is R ₂₉ . R ₂₂ may be selected from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10. When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₇ , it may be long and include from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and include from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₉ , it may include, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be the same or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are 2 or 3, for example, 2. The anion X ^- may be selected, for example, from halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide; and C ₁ -C _{4 alkyl sulfates,} such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with ammonium including an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ^- is selected from chloride and methyl sulfate.

• R₂₂est choisi parmi les radicaux méthyle et éthyle,
• x et y sont égaux à 1 ;
• z est égal à 0 ou 1 ;
• r, s et t sont égaux à 2 ;
• R₂₃est choisi parmi :

In another embodiment, ammonium salts of formula (B6) may be used, wherein:

• R ₂₂ is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals,
• x and y are equal to 1;
• z is equal to 0 or 1;
• r, s and t are equal to 2;
• R ₂₃ is chosen from:

the radical below:
,

methyl, ethyl and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen;

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

the radical below:
,

• R₂₄, R₂₆et R₂₈, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux à base d'hydrocarbures en C₁₃-C₁₇linéaires et ramifiés, saturés et insaturés, par exemple parmi les radicaux alkyle et alcényle en C₁₃-C17 linéaires et ramifiés, saturés et insaturés.

and hydrogen;

• R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be cited include salts, for example, chloride and methyl sulfate, of diiacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diiacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may include from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a vegetable oil, for example, palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound includes more than one acyl radical, these radicals may be the same or different.

These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or optionally oxyalkylenated alkyldiisopropanolamine on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification can be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin and glycerol chlorohydrin.

The above-mentioned quaternary ammonium salts which can be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example, tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by the company Van Dyk.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant is selected from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-80, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

More preferably, the cationic surfactant is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The amount of the cationic surfactant(s) may be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Silicone

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one silicone. Only one type of silicone may be used, but two or more different types of silicone may be used in combination.

The silicone may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional moiety selected from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties, amine or amino moieties, alkoxy moieties, hydroxyl moieties, acyloxyalkyl moieties, carboxylic acid moieties, hydroxyacylamino moieties, acrylic moieties, polyamine moieties and oxazoline moieties, and silicone-based celluloses.

Suitable silicones for the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched silicones having a viscosity ranging from 5×10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C, for example, from 1×10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s.

The silicones that can be used for the present invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and may be, for example, polyorganosiloxanes that are not soluble in the composition. They may be in a form selected from fluids, waxes, resins and gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter NOLL in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When volatile, silicones can be chosen from those with a boiling point ranging from 60°C to 260°C, for example:

(i) cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for example from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these siloxanes include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane sold under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones may also be used, for example, those sold under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethyl siloxane/methylalkyl siloxane type can also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula

in which:

Combinations of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic silicon compounds may also be used, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilyl pentaerythritol (50/50), and a mixture of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; and

(i) linear volatile polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity equal to or less than 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25 °C. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyl tetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade name “SH-200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27 to 32-TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.

In at least one embodiment, the silicones may be selected from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, waxes, gums, silicone resins and polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional moieties.

According to another embodiment, the silicones are selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones. The viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to these polydialkylsiloxanes include:

• les fluides de la gamme MIRASIL® commercialisés par RHODIA ;
• les fluides de la gamme 200 commercialisés par DOW CORNING tels que DC200, de viscosité 60 000 mm²/s ;
• les fluides VISCASIL® de GENERAL ELECTRIC et certains fluides de la gamme SF (par exemple, SF 96 et SF 18) de GENERAL ELECTRIC ; et
• le fluide commercialisé sous la référence DC 1664 par DOW CORNING.

SILBIONE® fluids from the 47 and 70 047 ranges and MIRASIL® fluids marketed by RHODIA, for example fluid 70 047 V 500 000;

• fluids from the MIRASIL® range marketed by RHODIA;
• fluids in the 200 range marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s;
• GENERAL ELECTRIC VISCASIL® fluids and certain GENERAL ELECTRIC SF range fluids (e.g., SF 96 and SF 18); and
• the fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by DOW CORNING.

Polydimethyl siloxanes having dimethyl silanol end groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 range fluids marketed by RHODIA.

Products marketed under the trade names “ABIL Wax® 9800 and 9801” by GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, which are polydialkyl (C ₁ -C ₂₀ ) siloxanes, can also be used.

Polydimethylsiloxane waxes can also be used.

Suitable silicone gums for the present invention include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes having high number average molecular weights ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000, alone or as mixtures in a solvent. This solvent may be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof. The silicone gums may also be selected, for example, from amodimethicones (aminosilicones), such as the products marketed under the references DC 929 Emulsion and DC 939 Emulsion by DOW CORNING.

• les mélanges d’un polydiméthylsiloxane hydroxylé à l'extrémité de la chaîne, ou diméthicool (CTFA), et d’un polydiméthylsiloxane cyclique également appelé cyclomethicone (CTFA), tel que le produit Q2 1401 commercialisé par DOW CORNING ;
• les mélanges de gomme de polydiméthylsiloxane et de silicone cyclique, tels que le produit SF 1214 Silicone Fluid commercialisé par GENERAL ELECTRIC ; ce produit est une gomme SF 30 correspondant à une diméthicone, ayant un poids moléculaire moyen en nombre de 500 000, solubilisée dans SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, un produit correspondant à un décaméthylcyclopentasilane ;
• les mélanges de deux PDMS de viscosités différentes, par exemple, les mélanges d’une gomme PDMS et d’un fluide PDMS, tels que le produit SF 1236 commercialisé par GENERAL ELECTRIC. Le produit SF 1236 est un mélange de gomme SE 30 définie ci-dessus, d’une viscosité de 20 m²/s et d’une huile SF 96 d’une viscosité de 5×10^-6m²/s. Un tel produit peut comprendre 15 % d’une gomme SE 30 et 85 % d’un fluide SF 96.

According to at least one embodiment, combinations of silicones may also be used, such as:

• mixtures of a chain-terminally hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethicool (CTFA), and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by DOW CORNING;
• mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane gum and cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000, solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, a product corresponding to a decamethylcyclopentasilane;
• mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, for example, mixtures of a PDMS gum and a PDMS fluid, such as the product SF 1236 marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of SE 30 gum defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m ² /s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s. Such a product may comprise 15% of an SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 fluid.

Organopolysiloxane resins suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, crosslinked siloxane systems comprising at least one of the following units:

R ₂ SiO _2/2 , R ₃ SiO _1/2 , RSiO _3/2 , and SiO _4/2 , wherein R is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. According to at least one embodiment, R is a lower C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, such as a methyl group.

These resins include, for example, the product marketed under the trade name “DOW CORNING 593” and those marketed under the trade names “SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267” by GENERAL ELECTRIC, which are dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structured silicones.

Trimethylsiloxysilicate resins may also be used, for example, those marketed under the trade names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by SHIN-ETSU.

The polyalkylaryl siloxanes may be selected from polydimethyl/methylphenyl siloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1×10 ^-5 to 5×10 ^-2 m ² /s at 25 °C.

• les fluides SILBIONE® de la gamme 70 641 de RHODIA ; les fluides RHODORSIL® des gammes 70 633 et 763 de RHODIA ;
• le fluide phényl triméthicone commercialisé sous la référence DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID par DOW CORNING ;
• les silicones de la gamme PK de BAYER, par exemple le produit PK20 ;
• les silicones des gammes PN, PH de BAYER, par exemple les produits PN1000 et PH1000 ; et
• certains fluides de la gamme SF de GENERAL ELECTRIC, tels que SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 et SF 1265.

Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl siloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names:

• SILBIONE® fluids from the 70 641 range from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids from the 70 633 and 763 ranges from RHODIA;
• the phenyl trimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;
• silicones from the BAYER PK range, for example the PK20 product;
• silicones from the BAYER PN and PH ranges, for example PN1000 and PH1000 products; and
• certain fluids from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Organomodified silicones that may be used for the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones as defined above and comprising at least one organofunctional moiety or group linked by means of a hydrocarbon group within their structure.

• des fractions polyéthylèneoxy et/ou polypropylèneoxy comprenant facultativement des fractions alkyle en C₆-C₂₄, telles que les produits appelés diméthicone copolyols commercialisés par DOW CORNING sous le nom commercial DC 1248 et sous le nom commercial DC Q2-5220 et les fluides SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, et L 711 commercialisés par UNION CARBIDE, et le (C₁₂)alkyl-méthicone copolyol commercialisé par DOW CORNING sous le nom commercial Q2 5200 ;
• des fractions d’amine facultativement substituées, par exemple, les produits commercialisés sous le nom commercial GP 4 Silicone Fluid et GP 7100 par GENESEE et les produits commercialisés sous les noms commerciaux Q2 8220 et DOW CORNING 929 et 939 par DOW CORNING. Des fractions d’amine substituées peuvent être choisies, par exemple, parmi les fractions d'amino alkyle en C₁-C₄. Les aminosilicones peuvent avoir des groupes fonctionnels alcoxy en C₁-C₄supplémentaires ;
• des fractions alcoxylées, telles que le produit commercialisé sous le nom « SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755 » par SWS SILICONES et ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 et 2440 par Goldschmidt ;
• des fractions hydroxylées, telles que les polyorganosiloxanes contenant des fonctions hydroxyalkyle décrits, par exemple, dans la demande de brevet français n° FR-A-85 163 34 ;
• des fractions acyloxyalkyle, par exemple les polyorganosiloxanes décrits dans le brevet U.S. n° 4 957 732 ;
• des fractions anioniques du type acide carboxylique, par exemple, les produits décrits dans le brevet européen n° 0 186 507, commercialisés par CHISSO CORPORATION, et des fractions anioniques d’alkyle carboxylique, telles que celles présentes dans le produit X-22-3701E commercialisé par SHIN-ETSU ; le sulfonate de 2-hydroxyalkyle ; et le thiosulfate de 2-hydroxyalkyle tels que les produits commercialisés par GOLDSCHMIDT sous les noms commerciaux « ABIL® S201 » et « ABIL® S255 » ;
• des fractions hydroxyacylamino, telles que les polyorganosiloxanes décrits dans la demande de brevet européen n° 0 342 834. Un exemple non limitatif d’un produit commercial correspondant est le produit Q2-8413 commercialisé par DOW CORNING ;
• des fractions acryliques, telles que les produits commercialisés sous les noms VS80 et VS70 par 3M ;
• des fractions polyamine, et
• des fractions oxazoline

Organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

• polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy moieties optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl moieties, such as the products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and the SILWET® fluids L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, and the (C ₁₂ )alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200;
• optionally substituted amine moieties, for example, the products marketed under the trade name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. Substituted amine moieties may be selected, for example, from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl amino moieties. The amino silicones may have additional C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy functional groups;
• alkoxylated fractions, such as the product marketed under the name “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt;
• hydroxylated fractions, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyalkyl functions described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-85 163 34;
• acyloxyalkyl moieties, for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Patent No. 4,957,732;
• anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and anionic alkyl carboxylic moieties, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names “ABIL® S201” and “ABIL® S255”;
• hydroxyacylamino moieties, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European Patent Application No. 0 342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the product Q2-8413 marketed by DOW CORNING;
• acrylic fractions, such as products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M;
• polyamine fractions, and
• oxazoline moieties

Silicones that may be used for the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). Products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 may also be used.

Suitable silicone-based celluloses that may be used for the present invention include products marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the references X-22-8401 and X-22-8404.

It is preferable that the silicone be selected from the group consisting of dimethicones, amodimethicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof.

The amount of silicone(s) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Amphoteric surfactant

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. A single type of amphoteric surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of amphoteric surfactant may be used in combination.

The amphoteric surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, derivatives in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and carboxylated amidoamine derivatives.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are selected from (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines and phosphobetaines.

The amphoteric surfactant used may preferably be chosen from phospholipids. These phospholipids are preferably chosen from phosphoacylglycerol, more preferably chosen from lecithins.

The lecithin according to the present invention can come from soybeans, sunflowers, eggs, and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the lecithin comes from soybeans, such as that sold under the name EMULMETIK 100 J by the company CARGILL.

The amount of the amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- pH correction agent

The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected to the desired value by using at least one pH correcting agent, such as an acidifying agent or a basifying agent, for example, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7.0 and, more preferably, from 4.0 to 6.0.

Acidifying agents include, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid and sulfonic acids.

The pH correcting agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Optional ingredient

The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, optional ingredient(s) typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants/emulsifiers other than (b) fatty amide, and (c) sugar ether surfactant; lipophilic thickeners; cosmetically acceptable volatile or non-volatile organic solvents; polyols; cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers; amphoteric polymers; natural extracts derived from animals or plants; waxes; preservatives; antioxidants; salts; and the like, within a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended for application to keratinous fibers.

The composition according to the present invention may preferably be used as a rinse-off cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers such as hair. The term "rinse-off" herein means that the composition according to the present invention is removed, by rinsing, from the keratinous fibers after being applied to the keratinous fibers. Rinsing may be carried out with water, for example.

Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for the hair, preferably a cosmetic hair care composition.

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients according to any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.

If necessary, the above essential or optional ingredients can be heated. Thus, heating can be done while mixing the above essential and optional ingredients.

The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer.

[Shape]

The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O/W) or (W/O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form, and preferably an emulsion.

The compositions used for the present invention may be in any dosage form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, or the like.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for the treatment, preferably the revitalization and/or care of keratinous fibers such as hair.

[Cosmetic process and use]

The present invention also relates to a process or cosmetic use for revitalizing or caring for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising:

1. au moins un alcool gras ayant une chaîne carbonée contenant de 20 à 26 atomes de carbone ;
2. au moins un amide gras ;
3. au moins un tensioactif éther de sucre ; et
4. au moins un composé bétaïne en une quantité d'au moins 1,5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition ; et

the application to the keratinous fiber of a composition comprising:

1. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms;
2. at least one fatty amide;
3. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and
4. at least one betaine compound in an amount of at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

optional rinsing of the composition of keratinous fibers.

The application of the composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush, a comb and hands.

The cosmetic process or use according to the present invention may be carried out by heating the keratinous fibers, preferably the hair. Thus, the cosmetic process according to the present invention may further comprise a step of heating the keratinous fiber, preferably the hair, after the step of applying the composition to the keratinous fibers and before the optional rinsing step.

The heating temperature is not limited, and it may be, for example, higher than 50°C, preferably higher than 100°C, and more preferably higher than 150°C. The heating temperature may be lower than 250°C.

The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating device but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

Heating can be done with conventional means, such as applying a hair dryer.

The optional step of rinsing the keratin fiber composition can be carried out with water.

1. au moins un alcool gras ayant une chaîne carbonée contenant de 20 à 26 atomes de carbone ;
2. au moins un amide gras ;
3. au moins un tensioactif éther de sucre ; et
4. au moins un composé bétaïne en une quantité d’au moins 1,5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition,

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition comprising:

1. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms;
2. at least one fatty amide;
3. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and
4. at least one betaine compound in an amount of at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

as a hair care or conditioning composition.

1. de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids d’au moins un alcool gras choisi parmi les alcools gras linéaires et saturés, tels que l’alcool arachidonylique, l’alcool béhénylique, l’alcool lignocérylique, et leurs mélanges ;
2. de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids d’au moins un amide gras choisi parmi Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (monoéthanolamide de coco), et leurs mélanges ;
3. de 0,5 % à 20 % d’au moins un tensioactif éther de sucre choisi parmi les tensioactifs de type alkyl glucoside ; et
4. au moins de la triméthyl glycine en une quantité d’au moins 2 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

1. from 0.5% to 20% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol chosen from linear and saturated fatty alcohols, such as arachidonic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
2. from 0.5% to 20% by weight of at least one fatty amide chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof;
3. from 0.5% to 20% of at least one sugar ether surfactant chosen from alkyl glucoside surfactants; and
4. at least trimethyl glycine in an amount of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

1. de 3 % à 7 % en poids d’au moins un alcool gras choisi parmi les alcools gras linéaires et saturés, tels que l’alcool arachidonylique, l’alcool béhénylique, l’alcool lignocérylique, et leurs mélanges ;
2. de 3 % à 7 % en poids d’au moins un amide gras choisi parmi Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (monoéthanolamide de Coco), et leurs mélanges ;
3. de 2 % à 7 % d’au moins un tensioactif de type alkyl glucoside choisi dans le groupe consistant en caprylyl/capryl glucoside, décyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cétéaryl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostéaryl glucoside, oléyl glucoside, C_12-20alkyl glucoside, et leurs mélanges ; et
4. au moins de la triméthyl glycine en une quantité d’au moins 2,5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

1. from 3% to 7% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol chosen from linear and saturated fatty alcohols, such as arachidonic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
2. from 3% to 7% by weight of at least one fatty amide chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof;
3. from 2% to 7% of at least one alkyl glucoside surfactant selected from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, C _12-20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof; and
4. at least trimethyl glycine in an amount of at least 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Considering that the composition according to the present invention has the effect of imparting improved softness and smooth texture to the hair, the cosmetic process and use according to the present invention can provide good revitalizing effects to the keratin fibers.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Preparations]

Each of the compositions in the form of an O/W emulsion according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. Upon melting the behenyl alcohol, thickeners, and the like, it was heated up to 70°C until the ingredient had completely melted. The numerical values of the quantities of the ingredients in Table 1 are all based on the “% by weight” of the ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated - MA: Active Ingredient.

[Assessment] (Viscosity)

The viscosity of the resulting composition was measured with a Rheomat RM 180 rheometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle at 25 °C. The measurement was carried out for 30 seconds after rotating the spindle in the composition for 1 minute at 200 rpm.

(Sensory Appreciation)

2.7 g of a 27 cm long Chinese bleached hair strand was prepared. Each of the hair strands was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. After shampooing, the hair strand was rinsed with water and then dried with a towel. 1 g of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was applied to the hair strand, and then the hair strand was left for 5 minutes under room conditions. The hair strand was then rinsed with water and dried with a hair dryer to obtain the treated hair strand.

The sensory aspects of softness and smooth texture of the treated hair were evaluated by several panelists in a hair care area with scores of 1 to 3 according to the following criteria and were averaged.

- Candy

1: The softness of the hair was not perceived

2: The softness of the hair was slightly perceived

3: The softness of the hair was well perceived

- Smooth texture

1: Smooth hair texture was not perceived

2: The smooth texture of the hair was slightly perceived

3: The smooth texture of the hair was well received

The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[Table 1]

Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Hydrophilic thickener 1.4 1.4 1.4 Cetearyl alcohol 5.5 5.5 5.5 Solid esters 3.5 3.5 3.5 Ester oil 2 2 2 Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-6 (and) cetrimonium chloride* ¹ 1 1 1 Cationic surfactant 3.4 3.4 3.4 Lecithin 1 1 1 Non-ionic surfactant 1 1 1 Trimethyl glycine 3 - 1 Behenyl alcohol 5 5 5 Cocamide MEA 5 5 5 Decyl Glucoside* ² 5 5 5 Preservative, perfume qs qs qs Citric acid qs pH qs pH qs pH Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Assessment pH 4.2 4.2 4.2 Viscosity (cP = mPa.s) 7600 6200 6430 Sensory appreciation Candy 3 2 2 Smooth texture 3 2 2

^*1 : Sold by DOW under the trade name XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION (containing 56% to 61% active ingredient)

^*2 : Sold by BASF under the trade name PLANTAREN 2000 UP (containing approximately 53% active ingredient)

As can be seen from the tables, the compositions according to Example 1, which include the specific combination of ingredients (a) to (d), exhibited improved softening and smoothing effectiveness and desired increased viscosity. Since the composition exhibits improved conditioning effects, such as effects imparting softness and smooth texture to the keratinous fibers, it can be said that it does not weigh down the keratinous fibers.

On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Example 1, which do not include the (d) betaine compound, could not exhibit good softening and smoothing effectiveness on keratinous fibers. In addition, the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was not sufficient. In addition, the composition according to Comparative Example 2, which includes only 1% by weight of the betaine compound, could not exhibit good softening and smoothing effectiveness on keratinous fibers. In addition, the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 2 was not sufficient.

Accordingly, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers, such as hair, because it can provide the keratinous fibers with the improved cosmetic effect of softening and smoothing the keratinous fibers, and also exhibit a desired increased viscosity without weighing down the hair.

Claims (10)

Composition, preferably cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, comprising
(a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms;
(b) at least one fatty amide;
(c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and
(d) at least one betaine compound in an amount of at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (a) fatty alcohol has a carbon chain containing from 20 to 24 carbon atoms. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the (b) fatty amide is selected from those formed by reaction of an alkanolamine and a C ₄ -C ₂₈ fatty acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (b) fatty amide is chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (c) sugar ether surfactant is chosen from alkyl glucoside surfactants. The composition of claim 5, wherein the alkyl glucoside surfactant is represented by the following general formula:
R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t (G) _v
in which
– R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, and more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl radical containing from 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, and more preferably 7 to 26 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of the R ₁ denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
– R ² represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
– G represents a reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms;
– t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10; and
– v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15. The composition of claim 5, wherein the alkyl glucoside surfactant is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, C _12-20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the (d) betaine compound is selected from trimethyl glycine, carnitine and proline betaine. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably chosen from phospholipids, more preferably chosen from phosphoacylglycerol, and even more preferably chosen from lecithins. Cosmetic process of revitalizing or caring for keratinous fibers, such as hair, including:
the application to the keratinous fiber of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9; and
optional rinsing of the composition of keratinous fibers.