WO2025087973A1

WO2025087973A1 - Process for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres, comprising the application of a composition comprising compounds of amino acid type and hydroxylated carboxylic acids

Info

Publication number: WO2025087973A1
Application number: PCT/EP2024/079962
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yoshiki Shibuya; Manon Chaumontet; Adrien KAESER
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-10-24
Filing date: 2024-10-23
Publication date: 2025-05-01
Anticipated expiration: 2026-04-24
Also published as: FR3154321A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres, notably the hair, comprising: - a step (i) of applying a cosmetic composition comprising compounds of amino acid type and hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or salts thereof, and - a step (ii) of applying a dyeing or bleaching hair composition, step (i) possibly being prior or subsequent to step (ii).

Description

Process for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres, comprising the application of a composition comprising compounds of amino acid type and hydroxylated carboxylic acids

The present invention relates to a process for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres, notably the hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of a composition comprising particular amino acids and carboxylic acids, before or after the application of a dyeing or bleaching composition.

It is known practice to perform hair dyeing or bleaching processes in order to modify the colour of natural hair. These processes generally consist in applying to the keratin fibres hair compositions comprising chemical oxidizing agents and optionally direct dyes and/or oxidation dyes.

These dyeing or bleaching hair compositions do, admittedly, have dyeing or bleaching power, but they may occasionally be responsible for degradation of the quality of the fibre, the constituent proteins of the hair possibly being denatured, thus giving rise to labile proteins. The higher the content of labile proteins, the more the hair is damaged.

This degradation of the fibre quality may result in substantial breakage during combing of the hair, notably when these compositions are applied to sensitized hair. Thus, it is common practice to resort to haircare compositions involving conditioning agents in order to limit the degradation or to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair. However, these haircare compositions may, in certain cases, impair the dyeing or bleaching of the keratin fibres thus treated.

Moreover, the dyeing or bleaching performance may not always be satisfactory, notably in terms of colour build-up, intensity or homogeneity of colouring, or in terms of lightening, when the hair is sensitized by repeated chemical treatments such as dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving and/or relaxing, and/or when the hair is laden with minerals and/or metal salts thereof. Specifically, tap water may sometimes comprise high contents of metals such as copper which, by accumulating on the hair over successive washes, may have a negative impact on the results of dyeing or bleaching. Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and/or their metal salts because of the presence, at the surface thereof, of anionic functions which notably correspond to the sulfonic or carboxylic functions of keratin. Minerals, very often polyvalent cations, will thus be attracted and captured by this negatively charged fibre with the formation of chemical bonds, which prevent them from being released by conventional hair treatment processes. This results in a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair with the passage of time. Such fixing depends not only on the hardness of the water, on the frequency and/or duration of exposure of the hair to the water in question but also on the nature and the length of the hair (notably porosity and charge) and also on its state of damage.

The accumulation of these minerals and/or of their metal salts can result in modifications to the hair fibre and in particular in a more or less marked modification of the cosmetic properties of the hair strand. Thus, an accumulation of calcium and of magnesium can result in dry hair lacking in gloss, whereas an accumulation of copper can result in the hair turning green.

In addition, the accumulation of the metal (iron, copper, for example) salts can accelerate the damage caused to the hair because they catalyse oxidation/reduction reactions and generate hydroxyl radicals which can be harmful to the keratin fibre, including at low contents.

This can result in photodegradation of the fibre, in lightening of the fibre, and also in a detrimental change in the properties of the hair, which can result in premature breakage of the hair strands; these phenomena are very particularly observed during the subsequent use of lightening products or dyeing products.

In other words, the hair can become less resistant, more weakened, indeed even break more easily, or else lose its sheen, due to the accumulation of minerals and/or metal salts thereof.

It is thus necessary to find a technical solution that can overcome these various drawbacks, ultimately leading to improved dyeing or bleaching of the hair, notably of hair that has been sensitized by repeated chemical treatments and/or that is laden with minerals and/or metal ions.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that all of these objectives can be achieved by means of the process according to the invention, which comprises the application of a particular composition, before or after a keratin fibre dyeing or bleaching step.

The subject of the present invention is thus a process for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres, notably the hair, comprising:

- a step (i) of applying to said fibres a cosmetic composition A comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or salts thereof, and

- a step (ii) of applying a dyeing or bleaching hair composition B, step (i) possibly being prior or subsequent to step (ii).

It has been found that the process according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance to breakage of the hair, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit its reduction or loss of sheen, undesirable effects liable to be caused by the presence of metal ions, notably copper or calcium ions, within said fibres.

After performing the process, the fibres appear to be strengthened, said strengthening being improved with successive applications of the composition.

The process according to the invention also makes it possible to provide conditioning properties to the hair, notably a smooth feel, softness, sheen and facilitated disentangling, and to do so while providing strength, body and a bulk effect to the head of hair.

Thus, the process according to the invention is particularly suitable for hair that has been sensitized, weakened and/or damaged, notably as a result of physical treatments (repeated brushing) and/or chemical treatments, for example dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving and/or relaxing.

It is also particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of hair laden with metals, notably laden with metals in contents of at least 100 ppm, better still in contents of at least 200 ppm; in particular laden with copper, notably in contents of at least 100 ppm, better still in contents of at least 200 ppm and/or laden with calcium notably in contents of at least 4000 ppm, better still in contents of at least 10 000 ppm.

The hair treatment process according to the invention thus comprises a step (i) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition A as defined below.

This step may optionally be followed by a leave-on time, for example of from 1 to 15 minutes, notably from 2 to 5 minutes.

This step may or may not also be followed by a rinsing step, for example rinsing with water.

The hair treatment process according to the invention also comprises a step (ii) of applying a dyeing or bleaching hair composition. Preferably, it is a bleaching composition.

This step may optionally be followed by a leave-on time, for example of from 5 to 60 minutes, notably from 10 to 40 minutes.

This step may be optionally followed by a rinsing step, for example a step of rinsing with water, and/or a washing step, for example a step of washing with a shampoo. Preferably, step (ii) is followed by a rinsing step, and optionally a washing step.

Steps (i) and (ii) are performed in succession or sequentially, meaning that one step precedes the other.

Thus, step (i) may precede the dyeing/bleaching step (ii); it is then referred to as a pretreatment step.

Step (i) may also be subsequent to dyeing/bleaching step (ii); it is then referred to as a post-treatment step.

Preferably, step (i) and step (ii) may be separated by a time ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, notably ranging from 2 to 30 minutes, better still ranging from 5 to 15 minutes.

In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”, and may be replaced therewith.

A/ Composition A applied in step (i)

The process according to the invention thus comprises a step (i) of applying to keratin fibres a cosmetic composition A comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or salts thereof.

Compounds of amino acid type

Composition A used in the context of the present invention thus comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “compound of amino acid type” means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and/or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, it being possible for the amine function(s) to be endocyclic, optionally in salt form, said amine functions being primary or secondary amine functions.

Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type are chosen from compounds of amino acid type comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (thus not comprising any sulfonic acid functions) and/or salts thereof. Said compounds are also called compounds of aminocarboxylic acid type and are particularly preferred.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and/or salts thereof.

The compounds of amino acid type may thus correspond to formula (I):

in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:
- when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C₁-C₄)alkyl;
- when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C₁-C₁₂)alkyl group, preferably a (C₁-C₄)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from –S–, –NH– or –C(NH)– and/or optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH₂), -SH, -COOH, -CONH₂ or –NH–C(NH)–NH₂ or a C5-C7 aryl group, notably phenyl, itself optionally substituted with one or more OH.

Preferably, when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this ring not being substituted.

Preferably, p = 2.

Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C₁-C₄)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with an –S– heteroatom and/or optionally substituted with one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or –NH–C(NH)–NH₂.

Preferentially, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

The compounds of amino acid type may also be a salt of a compound of formula (I).

These salts comprise the salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, for instance the lithium, sodium or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.

The compounds of amino acid type may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.

As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

Better still, the compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

Preferably, the compound of amino acid type is glycine.

Preferably, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the total content of compound(s) of aminocarboxylic acid type in composition A according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Better still, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Most particularly, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Better still, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

Composition A used according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or salts thereof. These (poly)acids are different from the compounds of amino acid type described previously.

Said (poly)acids comprise at least one COOH group (in acid or salified form). They may comprise several, notably at least two COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better still two or three COOH groups (in acid or salified form), in which case they are referred to as polyacids. They may comprise only one COOH group, in which case they are referred to as monoacids.

The term “(poly)acid” means both monoacids and polyacids.

They also comprise at least one OH group, but may comprise several thereof, notably from two to three OH groups.

Preferably, they comprise in total from four to six carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon-based chain is saturated and linear.

Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof comprise in total from four to six carbon atoms, from one to three OH groups and two to three COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

The salts of these (poly)acids comprise the salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, such as the lithium, sodium or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline-earth metals, such as the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts. The alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts are preferred and in particular the sodium salts.

Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or salts thereof are chosen from α-hydroxy acids and salts thereof, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts; most particularly citric acid and/or tartaric acid and also salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metals salts, such as sodium citrate and/or sodium tartrate; better still citric acid or salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or salts thereof, present in composition A according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total from four to six carbon atoms, from one to three OH groups and two or three COOH groups, or salts thereof, present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Most particularly, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Better still, the content of citric acid and/or salts thereof in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Associative polymer

Composition A used according to the invention may comprise one or more associative polymers. Preferably, the associative polymers are nonionic.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polymer” means any compound derived from the polymerization by polycondensation or from the radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide, and of a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R denoting an optionally hydroxylated C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group. All the compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide or a fatty amine are in particular excluded.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associative polymer” means an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally includes, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.

The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the molecules of which are capable, in the formulation medium, of combining with each other or with molecules of other compounds. Preferably, the fatty chain includes from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

A particular case of associative polymers is amphiphilic polymers, that is to say polymers including one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them water-soluble and one or more hydrophobic regions or groups (comprising at least one fatty chain) via which the polymers interact and assemble with each other or with other molecules.

The term “hydrophobic group” means a group or a polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When it denotes a hydrocarbon-based group, the hydrophobic group includes at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based hydrophobic group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty chain” means a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty compound”, for instance a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, means a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

Among the the anionic associative polymers, mention may notably be made of:

- (A) those including at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit; and more particularly those:
of which the hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, even more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and
of which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I’) below: CH₂=C(R’)-CH₂OB_nR
in which R’ denotes H or CH₃, B denotes an ethyleneoxy radical, n ranges from 0 to 100 and R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from the alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R’ denotes H, n = 10 and R denotes a stearyl (C₁₈) radical.

Among these anionic associative polymers, preference is particularly given to polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of C_l-C₄ alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether of formula (I’) and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

Preference is most particularly given to crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth-10), notably the product sold by the company BASF under the name Salcare SC80, which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of Steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10) having the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether/Acrylates Copolymer;

- (B) those including at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C₁₀-C₃₀)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

These polymers are preferably chosen from those for which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below:

in which R₁ denotes H or CH₃ or C₂H₅, and for which the hydrophobic unit of (C₁₀-C₃₀)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) below:

in which R₂ denotes H, CH₃ or C₂H₅ and R₃ denotes a C₁₀-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ alkyl radical.

(C₁₀-C₃₀) Alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in accordance with the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

Among these anionic associative polymers, use will more particularly be made of polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (III) described above and in which R₂ denotes H or CH₃ and R₃ denotes an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

Among anionic associative polymers of this type, preference is more particularly given to those constituted of from 95% to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4% to 40% by weight of C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl acrylate and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or else to those constituted of from 98% to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1% to 4% by weight of C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl acrylate and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described previously.

Mention may notably be made of the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21, having the INCI name Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1 and Carbopol 1382;

- (C) maleic anhydride/C30-C38 α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the maleic anhydride/C30-C38 α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer, in particular the product sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company Newphase Technologies (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer);

- (D) acrylic terpolymers comprising (a) from 20% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) from 20% to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), and (c) from 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.
Mention may notably be made of the methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethyl(meta-isopropenyl)benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated (40 EO) behenyl alcohol terpolymer, notably as a 25% aqueous dispersion, such as the product Viscophobe DB1000 sold by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical), having the INC name Polyacrylate-3;

- (E) copolymers including among their monomers (i) an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, notably acrylic or methacrylic acid, and of fatty alcohol, notably C₈-C₃₂ fatty alcohol, which is oxyalkylenated, notably comprising from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 4 to 50, or even from 10 to 40 EO.

Mention may in particular be made, as monomers, of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate comprising 10 to 40 EO, notably 18 to 30 EO.

Preferentially, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C₁-C₄ alcohol, notably a C₁-C₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate.

Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C₁-C₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C₈-C₃₂ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer which is oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 100 mol EO, in particular from 4 to 50 EO, or even from 10 to 40 EO.

By way of example, mention may be made of Aculyn 22 sold by the company Rohm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or Aculyn 28 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), and also of the Novethix L-10 Polymer sold by Lubrizol;

- (F) associative polymers including at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

Among the polymers of this type, mention may be made more especially of:
- crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers including from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C₈-C₁₆)alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750 899;
- terpolymers including from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C₆-C₈)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US 5 089 578;
- copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which are non-crosslinked and crosslinked;
- copolymers constituted of AMPS units and of steareth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMS sold by the company Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer), or beheneth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold by the company Clariant, or also steareth-8 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex SNC from Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-8 Methacrylate Copolymer);

- (G) associative polymers including at least one vinyllactam monomer and at least one α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of C₁-C₂₀ alkyl methacrylate, for example lauryl methacrylate, such as the product sold by the company ISP under the name Acrylidone^® LM (INCI name: VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of:
- (A’) cationic associative polyurethanes, which may be represented by the general formula (Ia) below: R-X-(P)_n-[L-(Y)_m]_r-L’-(P’)_p-X’-R’
R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;
X and X’, which may be identical or different, represent a group including an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L”;
L, L’ and L”, which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;
P and P’, which may be identical or different, represent a group including an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group;
Y represents a hydrophilic group;
r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive;
n, m and p are each, independently of each other, between 0 and 1000 inclusive;
the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends.

One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) described above, in which:
R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group,
X and X’ each represent a group L”,
n and p are integers that are between 1 and 1000 inclusive, and
L, L’, L”, P, P’, Y and m have the meanings given above.

Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
n = p = 0 (the polymers do not include any units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation),
the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide or a sulfate, etc.

Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group,
X and X’ both independently represent a group including a quaternary amine,
n = p = 0, and
L, L’, Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500 000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300 000 inclusive.

Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group originates from a monofunctional compound.

By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

When X and/or X’ denote a group including a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X’ may represent one of the following formulae:
in which:
R₂ represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;
R₁ and R₃, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C₁-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;
A^-is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.

The groups L, L’ and L’’ represent a group of formula::
in which:
Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and
R₄ represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.

The groups P and P’ comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae:

in which:
R₅ and R₇ have the same meanings as R₂ defined previously;
R₆, R₈ and R₉ have the same meanings as R₁ and R₃ defined above;
R₁₀ represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group possibly containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P; and
A^- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate.

As regards the meaning of Y, the term “hydrophilic group” means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and notably a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing labile hydrogen. The functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. In the present invention, the term “polyurethanes” encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof.

A first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound including at least one unit bearing an amine function. This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferentially difunctional, that is to say that, according to a preferential embodiment, this compound includes two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.

As mentioned previously, this compound may include more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.

Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulae:
HZ-(P)_n-ZH or HZ-(P’)_p-ZH, in which Z, P, P’, n and p are as defined above.

Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=N-R₄-N=C=O in which R₄ is as defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.

A third compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

This compound is constituted of a hydrophobic group and a function containing a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. When this compound includes a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, α-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound including at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

The cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound included in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

The functions containing labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen.

The hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Specifically, the units containing a quaternary or protonated amine function may suffice to provide the solubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes including such a group are, however, preferred.

- (B’) quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular:
- i) quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

- ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

- iii) the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

in which:
- R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent an ammonium group -R_aR_bR_cN⁺ Q^- in which R_a, R_b and R_c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁-C₃₀, preferentially C₁-C₂₀, alkyl group, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q^- represents an anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; and
n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10 000.

The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses i) or hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

As examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses bearing C₈ to C₃₀ fatty chains, mention may also be made of the product Quatrisoft LM 200 sold by the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical (INCI name: Polyquaternium-24) and the products Crodacel QM (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride), Crodacel QL (C₁₂ alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride) and Crodacel QS (C₁₈ alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride) sold by the company Croda.

Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide; more preferentially, R represents trimethylammonium chloride -(CH₃)₃N⁺Cl^- and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride -(CH₃)₂(C₁₂H₂₅)N⁺Cl^-. This type of polymer is known under the trade name Softcat Polymer SL®, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical, having the INCI name Polyquaternium-67.

More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are those of which the viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive. Preferentially, the viscosity is between 2700 and 2800 cPs inclusive. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

- (C’) cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising:
- a) at least one monomer of vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type;
- b) at least one monomer of structure (Ic) or (IIc) below:

in which:
X denotes an oxygen atom or a radical NR6,
R₁ and R₆ denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁-C₅ alkyl radical,
R₂ denotes a linear or branched C₁-C₄ alkyl radical,
R₃, R₄ and R₅ denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C₁-C₃₀ alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc):

in which:
- Y, Y₁ and Y₂ denote, independently of each other, a linear or branched C₂-C₁₆ alkylene radical,
R₇ denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C₁-C₄ alkyl radical or a linear or branched C₁-C₄ hydroxyalkyl radical,
R₈ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁-C₃₀ alkyl radical,
p, q and r denote, independently of each other, either the value zero or the value 1,
m and n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 0 to 100 inclusive,
x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusive,
Z denotes an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate;
with the proviso that:
- at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 denotes a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl radical,
- if m or n is other than zero, then q is equal to 1,
- if m or n is equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may also be block polymers.

Preferably, the counterion Z^- of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion and the tosylate ion.

Preferably, R₃, R₄ and R₅ denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁-C₃₀ alkyl radical.

More preferentially, the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferentially, m and n are equal to 0.

The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):

in which s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R₉ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁-C₅ alkyl radical and R₁₀ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁-C₅ alkyl radical, with the proviso that one at least of the radicals R₉ and R₁₀ denotes a hydrogen atom.

Even more preferentially, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or nonionic monomers.

As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least:
a) one monomer of formula (IVc),
b) one monomer of formula (Ic) in which p=1, q=0, R₃ and R₄ denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₅ alkyl radical and R₅ denotes a linear or branched C₉-C₂₄ alkyl radical, and
c) one monomer of formula (IIc) in which R₃ and R₄ denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁-C₅ alkyl radical.

Even more preferentially, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40% to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1% to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25% to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are notably described in patent application WO-00/68282.

As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, use is notably made of:
- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,
- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,
- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers.

The vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethylacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is notably sold by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10 and Styleze W20L (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55).

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20 000 000, more particularly between 200 000 and 2 000 000 and preferentially between 400 000 and 800 000.

- (D’) the cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted with one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers and one or more associative vinyl monomers, such as described in patent application WO 2004/024779.

Among these polymers, mention may more particularly be made of the products from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:
- a di(C₁-C₄ alkyl)amino(C₁-C₆ alkyl) methacrylate,
- one or more C₁-C₃₀ alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,
- a polyethoxylated C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl methacrylate (20-25 mol of ethylene oxide units),
- a 30/5 polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol allyl ether,
- a hydroxy(C₂-C₆ alkyl) methacrylate, and
- an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

Such a polymer is, for example, the compound sold by the company Lubrizol under the name Carbopol Aqua CC and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

The nonionic associative polymers are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

(1) celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, notably C₈-C₃₂ and better still C₁₄-C₂₈ alkyl; preferably from:
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, notably C₈-C₃₂ and better still C₁₄-C₂₈ alkyl, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C₈-C₂₂, for instance the cetylhydroxyethylcellulose sold notably under the reference Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland,
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
- and mixtures thereof;

(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, notably C₈-C₃₂ and better still C₁₄-C₂₈ alkyl, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia;

(3) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, notably C₈-C₃₂ and better still C₁₄-C₂₈ alkyl. Examples that may be mentioned include:
- the vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer and notably the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 sold by the company ISP;
- the vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer and notably the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 sold by the company ISP;

(4) copolymers of C₁-C₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers including at least one fatty chain, notably a C₈-C₃₂ and better still C₁₄-C₂₈ alkyl chain, for instance the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208;

(5) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers including at least one fatty chain, notably a C₈-C₃₂ and better still C₁₄-C₂₈ alkyl chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

(6) polyurethane polyethers including in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences;

(7) polymers comprising an aminoplast ether backbone having at least one fatty chain, notably C₈-C₃₂ and better still C₁₄-C₂₈ alkyl, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by the company Süd-Chemie.

Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers include at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being side chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more side chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or starburst polymers.

The fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.

By extension, also included among the fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, use may also be made of Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C₁₂-C₁₄ alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C₁₈ alkyl chain, from Akzo. The product DW 1206B^® from Röhm & Haas containing a C₂₀ alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in an aqueous/alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Röhm & Haas.

The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyurethane polyethers are sold notably by the company Röhm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

When the composition comprises one or more associative polymers, they are preferably chosen from nonionic associative polymers, preferentially from polyether polyurethanes.

Preferably, when they are present, the associative polymer(s) are present in composition A in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when they are present, the nonionic associative polymer(s) are present in composition A in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic surfactants

Composition A used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-O groups.

They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds, which are quaternary ammonium salts:

- the compounds corresponding to the general formula (II) below:
(II)
in which:

X^- is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (C₁-C₄)alkylsulfonates or (C₁-C₄)alkylarylsulfonates;

the groups R₁ to R₄, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R₁ to R₄ denoting a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C₁-C₃₀ alkyl, C₁-C₃₀ alkoxy, (C₂-C₆) polyoxyalkylene, C₁-C₃₀ alkylamide, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂-C₆)alkyl, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkyl acetate, and C₁-C₃₀ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), the ones that are preferred are tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts such as those sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

It is preferred in particular to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds;

- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III):
(III)
in which R₅ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R₆ represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₄ alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R₇ represents a C₁-C₄ alkyl group, R₈ represents a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₄ alkyl group, X^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R₅ and R₆ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R₇ denotes a methyl group and R₈ denotes a hydrogen atom.

Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV):
(IV)
in which:

R₉ denotes an alkyl radical including from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

R₁₀ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R_9a)(R_10a)(R_11a)N-(CH₂)₃, with R_9a, R_10a, R_11a, R₁₁, R₁₂, R₁₃ and R₁₄, which may be identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
X^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (C₁-C₄)alkylsulfonates and (C₁-C₄)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below:
(V)
in which:

R₁₅ is chosen from C₁-C₆ alkyl groups and C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R₁₆ is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-; groups R₂₀ which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom;

R₁₈ is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; groups R₂₂ which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom;

R₁₇, R₁₉ and R₂₁, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers having a value from 0 to 10;

X^- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R₁₆ denotes R₂₀, and that when z is 0 then R₁₈ denotes R₂₂.

The alkyl groups R₁₅ may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R₁₅ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R₁₆ is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₀, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R₁₈ is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₂, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R₁₇, R₁₉ and R₂₁, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₁-C₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₁-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X^- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X^- is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

In the composition according to the invention, use may be made more particularly of the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R₁₅ denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;
R₁₆ is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-, methyl, ethyl or C₁₄-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups, and a hydrogen atom;
R₁₈ is chosen from the group R21-C(O)- and a hydrogen atom;
R₁₇, R₁₉ and R₂₁, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (V) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (notably chloride or methyl sulfate), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty acids or with mixtures of C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₈-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based chain.

Preferably, the fatty amines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C₆-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Among the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (VI) below:

RCONHR’’N(R’)₂ (VI)
in which:
- R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C₅-C₂₉ and preferably C₇-C₂₃ alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C₅-C₂₉ and preferably C₇-C₂₃ alkenyl radical;
- R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, notably the product sold by the company Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyldimethylamine, soyamidopropyldimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, minkamidopropyldimethylamine, oatamidopropyldimethylamine, sesamidopropyldimethylamine, tallamidopropyldimethylamine, olivamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; even better still from those of formula (II) above.

Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, composition A comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in composition A according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.4% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymers

Composition A used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers other than the associative polymers described above. This or these cationic polymer(s) are therefore non-associative.

The term “cationic polymer” denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

The cationic polymers that may be employed preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq/g.

The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×10⁶ approximately and preferably between 10³ and 3×10⁶ approximately.

The cationic polymers that may be employed are preferably non-associative.

Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made of:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae:

in which:

- R₃, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH₃ radical;

- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R₄, R₅ and R₆, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- R₁ and R₂, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;

- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;

- preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

(2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, the quaternizing agent notably possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.

Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may notably be mentioned is the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

The cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).

Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.

Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

(3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers;

(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.

(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.

(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

in which

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

- R₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- R₁₀ and R₁₁, independently of each other, denote a C₁-C₆ alkyl group, a C₁-C₅ hydroxyalkyl group, a C₁-C₄ amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R₁₀ and R₁₁ may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R₁₀ and R₁₁, independently of each other, preferably denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl group;

- Y^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name polyquaternium-6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name polyquaternium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR;

(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

in which:

- R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ and R₁₆, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C₁-C₁₂ hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals;

or else R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ and R₁₆, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;

or else R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ and R₁₆ represent a linear or branched C₁-C₆ alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R₁₇-D or -CO-NH-R₁₇-D group, where R₁₇ is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

- A₁ and B₁ represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

- X^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

it being understood that A₁, R₁₃ and R₁₅ can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

in addition, if A₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B₁ may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.

Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

in which R₁, R₂, R₃ and R₄, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is the one for which R₁, R₂, R₃ and R₄ represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

in which:

- R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀ and R₂₁, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH₂CH₂(OCH₂CH₂)_pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀ and R₂₁ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

- X^- denotes an anion such as a halide,

- A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH₂-CH₂-O-CH₂-CH₂-.

Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

(11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary;

(12) polymers including in their structure:

(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

In other words, these polymers may notably be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.

The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a nonlimiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

Preferably, the cationic polymers that may be employed in the context of the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the polymers of family (1) and cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses, such as Polyquaternium-10; cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums; and also mixtures thereof.

Preferably, composition A comprises one or more cationic polymers.

When they are present, composition A according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic polysaccharides

Composition A used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic polysaccharides other than the associative polymers described above. This or these nonionic polysaccharides are thus non-associative.

The nonionic polysaccharides are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from celluloses, starches, galactomannans and nonionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers or esters thereof.

These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. Mention may be made, as physical treatment, of the temperature and mention may be made, as chemical treatment, of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions, in so far as these treatments make it possible to give polymers that are nonionic.

As galactomannans that may be used, mention may be made of nonionic guar gums which can be modified with (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C₆)alkyl groups, notably hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company Rhodia Chimie.

The botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch. The starches may be chemically or physically modified, notably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, notably such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

The nonionic polysaccharides may also be cellulose-based polymers not including a C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty chain in their structure.

According to the invention, the term “cellulose-based” polymer refers to any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together by β-1,4 bonds; the cellulose-based polymers may be unsubstituted celluloses, and/or derivatives of nonionic celluloses.

Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ethers-esters are distinguished.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are (C₁-C₄)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C₄)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C₄)alkyl(C₁-C₄)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharides are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from celluloses, galactomannans and nonionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers thereof; and better still, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl, notably hydroxypropyl, groups; and/or celluloses, which may be substituted or unsubstituted, and cellulose ethers, such as (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses.

Preferentially, the nonionic polysaccharides are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C₆)alkyl groups, notably hydroxypropyl (INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar) groups.

Preferably, composition A comprises one or more nonionic polysaccharides.

When they are present, composition A according to the invention may comprise the nonionic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the nonionic polysaccharide(s) chosen from celluloses, galactomannans and nonionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers thereof, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty substances

Composition A used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances, which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing any Si-O bonds.

The term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁵ Pa).

Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

The term “fatty acid” means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Said fatty acids are different from the (poly)hydroxylated carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms described previously.

The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated, and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

- cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

- stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

- arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

- behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

- lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

- ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

- montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

- myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; better still, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

The solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from the esters resulting from C₉-C₂₆ fatty carboxylic acid and/or from C₉-C₂₆ fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C₉-C₂₆ alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; C₉-C₂₆ alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C₉-C₂₆ alkyl stearates, notably myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

The ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula:

in which:

- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

- R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

- R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also denote a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.

Preferentially, ceramides are used for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear C15 group.

Use may also be made of the compounds for which R₁ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids; R₂ denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R₃ denotes a saturated or unsaturated C₁₂-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH₂)₁₂-CH₃ group.

As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

As liquid fatty substances that may be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, mineral oils and mixtures thereof.

The liquid fatty substances have a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably of less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁵ Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The liquid hydrocarbons may be C₆ to C₁₈ liquid hydrocarbons and be linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C₈-C₁₆, notably C₁₀-C₁₄, alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleopalmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.

Preferably, the fatty substances are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid C₆-C₁₈ hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, composition A comprises one or more fatty substances.

Preferably, composition A according to the invention may comprise the fatty substance(s) in a total amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 4% to 15% by weight, even better still from 6% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Silicones

Composition A according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more silicones, which may be chosen in particular from amino silicones, non-amino silicones and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), and volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amino silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones.

The non-amino silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in composition A according to the invention; they may be in oil, wax, resin or gum form; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.

The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and in particular from:

i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as

- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia;

- cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:

Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide;

- mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-based organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10^-6 m²/s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.

Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes including:

- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally including C₆-C₂₄ alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet^® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (C₁₂)alkylmethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;

- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax^® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;

- hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;

- acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or else of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil^® S201 and Abil^® S255.

The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:

- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm²/s;

- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1-C20)dialkylsiloxanes.

Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:

- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxy-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10^-5 to 5×10^-2 m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:

- the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;

- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The non-amino silicones that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone), which are notably liquid and non-volatile.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The amino silicones that may be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5 × 10^-6 to 2.5 m²/s at 25°C, for example from 1 × 10^-5 to 1 m²/s. Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from silicones that are non-volatile liquids (25°C, 1 atm).

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds:

A) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 g/mol;

B) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II):

R'_aG_3-a-Si(OSiG₂)_n-(OSiG_bR'_2-b)_m-O-SiG_3-a’-R'_a’ (II)

in which:

- G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, C₁-C₈ alkyl, for example methyl, or C₁-C₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy, group;
- a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one from among a and a’ is equal to zero,

- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

- R’, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -C_qH_2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the following groups: -NR’’-Q-N(R’’)₂, -N(R’’)₂, -N⁺(R’’)₃ A^-, -N⁺H(R’’)₂ A^-, -N⁺H₂(R’’) A^-, -NR’’-Q-N⁺(R’’)H₂ A^-, -NR’’-Q-N⁺(R’’)₂H A^- and -NR’’-Q-N⁺(R’’)₃ A^-, in which R’’, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C₁-C₂₀ alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula C_rH_2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A^- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (II) may be chosen from:

(i) the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;

(ii) the silicones of formula (IV) below:

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

- R₁, R₂ and R₃, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C₁-C₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R₁ to R₃ denoting an alkoxy radical.

Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g/mol;

(iii) the silicones of formula (V) below:

in which:

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

- R₁ and R₂, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C₁-C₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R₁ or R₂ denoting an alkoxy radical.

Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 g/mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100 000 g/mol and in particular from 10 000 to 50 000 g/mol.

The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (IV) or (V). A product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (V) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

When these amino silicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as amino silicones of formula (V), use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker;

(iv) the silicones of formula (VI) below:

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g/mol.
A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning;

(v) the silicones of formula (VII) below:

in which:

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200 000 g/mol.
A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;

C) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

in which:

- R₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C₁-C₁₈ alkyl or C₂-C₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

- R₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C₁-C₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C₁-C₁₈, for example C₁-C₈, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

- Q^- is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;

- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

and
- s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50;

D) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):

in which:

- R₇, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C₁-C₁₈ alkyl radical, a C₂-C₁₈ alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

- R₈, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C₁-C₁₈ alkyl radical, a C₂-C₁₈ alkenyl radical or a radical -R₆-NHCOR₇;

- X^- is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; and

- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
These silicones are for example described in patent application EP-A-0 530 974; mention may in particular be made of the silicone having the INCI name: Quaternium 80.

Silicones falling within this category are the silicones sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474;

E) the amino silicones of formula (X):

in which:

- R₁, R₂, R₃ and R₄, which may be identical or different, denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

- R₅ denotes a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g;

F) the multiblock polyoxyalkylene amino silicones, of (AB)_n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae:

[-(SiMe₂O)_xSiMe₂-R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C₂H₄O)_a(C₃H₆O)_b-R’-N(H)-R-] or

[-(SiMe₂O)_xSiMe₂-R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C₂H₄O)_a(C₃H₆O)_b-]
in which:

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

- R’’ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C₂-C₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH₂CH₂CH₂OCH₂CH(OH)CH₂- radical; preferentially, R denote a CH₂CH₂CH₂OCH₂CH(OH)CH₂- radical; and

- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C₂-C₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH₂CH₂CH₂OCH₂CH(OH)CH₂- radical; preferentially, R’ denote -CH(CH₃)-CH₂-.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000 g/mol.
Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive;

G) the amino silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII):

in which:

- R, R’ and R’’, which may be identical or different, denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

- A denotes a C₃ alkylene radical; and

- m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000;

in which:

- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

- R₁ and R₂, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH₂CH₂CH₂- and -CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂-.

Preferably, R₁ and R₂ are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R₁ and R₂, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):

- x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

- y ranges from 1 to 100;

- A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH₂CH₂CH₂ and -CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂-; and

- R₁ and R₂ independently are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R₁ and R₂, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A silicone of formula (XII) that is preferred is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive;

H) polysiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes, including primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55 000.
As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.

In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

As examples of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50 000.

As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to formula (XVIII) below:

in which:

- n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;

- m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;

- R’’’, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals possibly being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl OH groups;

- R’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

- R’’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the radicals R’’’, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; preferentially, the radicals R’’’, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, which are notably C₁₃, C₁₄ or C₁₅ radicals, alone or as a mixture, and better still represent a mixture of C₁₃, C₁₄ and C₁₅ radicals.

Preferably, the radicals R’’’ are identical.

Preferably, R’ is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; notably a -CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-, -CH₂-CH(CH₃)-CH₂- or –CH₂-CH₂-CH(CH₃)- radical.

Preferably, R’’ is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular a -CH₂-CH₂- radical.

Preferentially, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

- n is a number between 50 and 80;

- m is a number between 1 and 5;

- R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R’ is a divalent alkylene radical containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

- R’’ is a linear divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Better still, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

- n is a number between 50 and 80;

- m is a number between 1 and 5;

- R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

- R’ is a -(CH₂)₃-, -CH₂-CH(CH₃)-CH₂- or -CH₂-CH₂-CH(CH₃)- radical, and

- R’’ is a -(CH₂)₂- radical.

A most particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may notably be made of the silicone sold under the name Dowsil 8500 Conditioning Agent by Dow.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the amino silicones of formulae (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI) and/or (XII) defined above.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones, which are better still liquid and non-volatile, notably chosen from the amino silicones of formulae (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI) and/or (XII) as defined above, even better still chosen from the amino silicones of formulae (I), (III) and/or (XI) as defined above.

Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises, as silicone, only one or more amino silicones; in other words, according to this preference, the composition does not comprise (0%) any non-amino silicone.

Advantageously, composition A according to the present invention may comprise, when they are present, the silicone(s), notably the amino silicone(s), in a total content preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 4% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional compounds

Composition A used according to the invention advantageously comprises water, notably in a concentration preferably ranging from 45% to 95% by weight, for example from 50% to 90% by weight, notably from 55% to 85% by weight, better still from 60% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferentially between 3 and 6, or even between 3.5 and 5.5.

Composition A used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible) organic solvents which are liquid at 25°C, 1 atm, which may be chosen from C₁-C₆ aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C₂-C₈ polyols and C₃-C₇ polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is chosen from C₂-C₄ mono-, di- or tri-diols. It may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

Composition A used according to the invention may also comprise at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients notably chosen from thickeners, gelling agents, which are both different from the polymers described above; sunscreens; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-relaxing agents; nacreous agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; fillers; fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents; silanes, silicones and nonionic surfactants. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair composition A used in the process according to the invention may comprise:

- one or more compounds of amino acid type corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, in which p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C₁-C₄)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with an -S- heteroatom and/or optionally substituted with one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH₂; better still, R represents a hydrogen atom;

preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, notably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, and/or salts thereof, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight;

- optionally one or more silicones, preferably chosen from amino silicones, and mixtures thereof; which are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 4% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- optionally one or more cationic surfactants preferably chosen from those of formula (II), of formula (V) and/or of formula (VI) above, better still from those of formula (II) and/or of formula (VI) above;

preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.4% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- optionally one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from the polymers of family (1) and/or cationic polysaccharides, notably chosen from cationic celluloses and/or galactomannan gums; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- optionally one or more nonionic polysaccharides, notably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C₆)alkyl groups; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- optionally one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid C₆-C₁₈ hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; which are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 4% to 15% by weight, better still from 6% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

B/ Dyeing or bleaching composition applied in step (ii)

The process according to the invention comprises a step (ii) known as dyeing or bleaching, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of a dyeing or bleaching hair composition.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition applied to the keratin fibres during step (ii) of the process is a dye composition, which may comprise one or more colouring agents notably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.

The term “oxidation dye” means an oxidation dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are colourless or sparingly coloured compounds, which, via a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a coloured species;

The term “direct dye” means a natural and/or synthetic dye, including in the form of an extract or extracts, other than oxidation dyes. These are coloured compounds that will spread superficially on the fibre. They may be ionic or nonionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or nonionic.

The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more coupling agents (also known as couplers).

The dye composition may optionally comprise one or more oxidation bases advantageously chosen from those conventionally used in the dyeing of keratin fibres.

By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts; notably the addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

The dye composition may optionally comprise one or more coupling agents advantageously chosen from those conventionally used in the dyeing of keratin fibres.

Among these coupling agents, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents and also the corresponding addition salts, notably the addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

The dye composition may optionally comprise one or more direct dyes. Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures. The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition applied to the keratin fibres during step (ii) of the process is a bleaching composition which may notably comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

The dyeing or bleaching composition applied to the keratin fibres may comprise at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

The term “chemical oxidizing agent” means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, peracids and precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Better still, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof.

Even better still, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perborates or percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals or of ammonium, and mixtures thereof.

A chemical oxidizing agent that is particularly preferred is hydrogen peroxide.

Examples of peroxygenated salts that may be mentioned include sodium, potassium or ammonium persulfates and mixtures thereof.

When the composition is a bleaching composition, it may comprise, in a preferred manner, one or more peroxygenated salts, preferentially one or more persulfates, better still one or more persulfates chosen from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, when the composition is a bleaching composition, it may comprise, in a preferred manner, one or more peroxygenated salts, preferentially one or more persulfates, better still one or more persulfates chosen from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof, and hydrogen peroxide.

The dyeing or bleaching composition may comprise a total content of chemical oxidizing agents ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.6% to 40% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing or bleaching composition.

The dyeing or bleaching composition may optionally also comprise one or more alkaline agents. Preferably, the dyeing or bleaching composition comprises one or more organic or mineral alkaline agents.

The mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxide, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium or potassium silicates or metasilicates, or mixtures thereof.

The organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pK_b at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that it is the pK_b corresponding to the function which has the highest basicity. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise any alkyl or alkenyl fatty chains comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

The organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (III) below:

in which:
- W is a divalent C₁-C₆ alkylene group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a (C₁-C₆)alkyl group, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NR^u;
- R^x, R^y, ^Rz, R^t and R^u, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from (C₁-C₆)alkyl, C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or C₁-C₆ aminoalkyl.

Examples of amines of formula (III) that may be mentioned include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C₁-C₈ alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C₁ to C₄ hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.

Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

More particularly, the amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and include at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid and phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.

As amino acids that may be used in the dyeing or bleaching composition, mention may notably be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.

Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (IV) below, and also salts thereof:

in which R represents a group chosen from imidazolyl, preferably imidazolyl-4-yl; aminopropyl; aminoethyl; -(CH₂)₂N(H)-C(O)-NH₂; and –(CH₂)₂-N(H)-C(NH)-NH₂.

Among the compounds of formula (IV), mention may be made of histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.

The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine.

The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. Besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.

Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may be used in particular.

Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates and mixtures thereof. Better still, the alkaline agent present in the dye composition is chosen from aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof. Better still, the alkaline agent present in the bleaching composition is chosen from alkali metal silicates and alkali metal metasilicates, notably from sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

The total content of alkaline agents included in the dyeing or bleaching composition may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing or bleaching composition.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bleaching composition may be derived from the mixing of:

a) a first composition B1 comprising one or more peroxygenated salts and one or more alkaline agents, preferably chosen from silicates,

b) a second composition B2 comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s) different from the peroxygenated salts.

Preferably, the peroxygenated salts are chosen from persulfates; perborates; peracids and/or salts thereof; alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium percarbonates; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, the first composition B1 comprises at least one persulfate.

Persulfates, also known as peroxysulfates, correspond, for the purposes of the invention, to SO₅ ^2- anions (peroxomonosulfate anion) or S₂O₈ ^2- anions (peroxodisulfate anion) or to compounds comprising at least one of these anions. Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from peroxodisulfates.

Preferably, the first composition B1 comprises at least one peroxygenated salt chosen from persulfates; preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline-earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) present in the first composition B1 ranges from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, more preferentially from 20% to 65% by weight, better still from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition B1.

The term “silicate” means a silicic acid salt.

The silicate(s) are preferably water-soluble.

The term “water-soluble silicate” means a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.

Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, aluminium silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminium silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.

The silicate(s) may be chosen from metasilicates, preferably from sodium metasilicates, potassium metasilicates, calcium metasilicates, aluminium metasilicates, trimethylammonium metasilicates, and mixtures thereof. Preferentially, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates. Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from the compounds having the INCl name Sodium Silicate and/or Sodium Metasilicate.

The silicate(s) are present in the first composition B1 preferably in a total content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 40% by weight and better still from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition B1.

The first composition B1 may comprise one or more surfactants, notably chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof; preferably, the first composition B1 comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: -CO₂H, -CO₂ ^-, -SO₃H, -SO₃ ^-, -OSO₃H, -OSO₃ ^-, -H₂PO₃, -HPO₃ ^-, -PO₃ ^2-, -H₂PO₂, -HPO₂ ^-, -PO₂ ^2-, -POH and -PO^-.

As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the first composition A, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(C1-C4)alkyl-N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise mentioned) generally including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.

Among the anionic surfactants, mention may also be made of salts of fatty acids, notably of C8-C24 and preferably C12-C20 fatty acids, other than the (poly)carboxylic acids described previously.

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C₆-C₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may notably be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants without a sulfate function.

As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.

Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for instance lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 OE) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of sulfated surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferentially alkyl sulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.

When the first composition B1 comprises one or more surfactants, the total surfactant content preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition B1.

When the first composition B1 comprises one or more anionic surfactants, the total anionic surfactant content preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B1.

The first composition B1 may also comprise one or more fatty substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013×10⁵ Pa), with a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1%. The fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substances are, moreover, non-(poly)oxyalkylenated and non-(poly)glycerolated. In other words, the fatty substances do not include in their structure a (poly)ethylene oxide or (poly)glycerol or (poly)propylene glycol unit.

The fatty substance(s) may be chosen from solid fatty substances and/or liquid fatty substances (also called “oil”), and mixtures thereof.

The term “oil” means a “fatty substance” which is liquid, i.e. which is capable of flowing under the action of its own weight at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013×10⁵ Pa). Preferably, the viscosity at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s^-1 of the oil is between 10^-3 Pa.s and 2 Pa.s. It may be measured using a Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with cone-plate geometry or an equivalent machine. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance that is not liquid at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013×10⁵ Pa), in particular a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a shear rate of 1 s^-1 under the conditions mentioned above.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from the liquid fatty substances.

Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances are chosen from:

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance cetanol, octyldodecanol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

- C₆-C₁₆ hydrocarbons;

- hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms;

- silicones and

mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the first composition B1 comprises one or more fatty substances, preferentially chosen from liquid fatty substances, better still from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the total content of fatty substances, when they are present, ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition B1.

Advantageously, the total content of liquid fatty substances, when they are present, ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition B1.

The first composition B1 may optionally comprise one or more alkaline agents other than the silicates described previously. Mention may notably be made of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium carbonates or hydrogen carbonates.

Preferably, the first composition B1 is anhydrous. The term “anhydrous composition” refers to a composition which comprises little or no water, notably less than 0.5% water, better still less than 0.1% water, even better still less than 0.05% or even less than 0.01% water, relative to the total weight of the first composition B1. In particular, the first composition B1 does not comprise any water added during its preparation, the water that may be present possibly being provided by the starting materials used during its preparation.

Preferably, the first composition B1 is a pulverulent composition.

According to the present invention, the second composition B2 of the bleaching composition comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents other than the peroxygenated salts.

Preferably, the second composition B2 comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof.

The hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts may be chosen from urea peroxide, polymeric complexes that can release hydrogen peroxide, oxidases, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of polymeric complexes that can release hydrogen peroxide, mention may be made of polyvinylpyrrolidone/H₂O₂ in particular in powder form, and the other polymeric complexes described in US 5 008 093, US 3 376 110 and US 5 183 901.

Oxidases can produce hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate, for instance glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase.

According to a preferred embodiment, the second composition B2 comprises hydrogen peroxide as chemical oxidizing agent.

The chemical oxidizing agent(s) other than peroxygenated salts are preferably present in the second composition B2 in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition B2.

The second composition B2 is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it may comprise at least 10% by weight of water, preferably at least 30% by weight of water and even more advantageously at least 50% by weight of water. Preferably, the second composition B2 comprises water in a content ranging from 10% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, better still from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition B2.

The second composition B2 preferably comprises one or more fatty substances as defined previously, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the second composition B2 may also comprise surfactants, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, these compounds being as defined previously.

The second composition B2 may also comprise one or more acidifying agents, among which may be mentioned mineral acids and organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

The pH of the second composition B2, when it is aqueous, is preferably less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferentially between 1.5 and 4.5. This pH may be adjusted to the desired value by using one or more acidifying agents, which may notably be chosen from those described previously.

The second composition B2 may optionally comprise one or more additives, among which mention may be made of anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral thickeners, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, sequestrants, fragrances, and preserving agents.

The process according to the invention may thus comprise, before step (ii) of applying a hair composition B, a step of mixing a first composition B1 as described previously with a second composition B2 as described previously, so as to obtain said composition B.

This mixing step is preferably performed at the time of use, just before applying to the hair composition B that may be produced from the mixing.

Preferably, the first composition B1 and the second composition B2 are mixed in a B1/B2 weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferentially from 0.3 to 1.5, better still from 0.5 to 1.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Unless otherwise indicated, all the amounts are indicated as mass percentages of active material (g% AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

Composition A1 according to the invention and comparative composition A2 below were prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below (g% AM):

Composition	A1 (invention)	A2 (comparative)
Citric acid	2.0	-
Glycine	1	-
Behentrimonium chloride	3	3
Hydroxypropyl guar	0.15	0.15
Aminopropyl dimethicone	0.4	0.4
Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone	0.3	0.3
PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer	0.15	0.15
Polyquaternium-37	0.1	0.1
Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter	0.5	0.5
Cetearyl alcohol	7	7
Cetyl esters	1.5	1.5
Isododecane	0.4	0.4
Isopropyl alcohol	0.7	0.7
Glycerol	1	1
Propylene glycol	0.2	0.2
Steareth-100	0.25	0.25
Preserving agents	qs	qs
Water	qs 100%	qs 100%

Compositions A1 and A2 are in the form of a cream and may be used after a bleaching step, in rinse-off mode, after an optional step of shampoo washing.

It is found that composition A1 improves the disentangling of the hair, providing care, sheen and strength, in comparison with composition A2.

Composition A1 also provides hair strengthening properties, and allows the amount of calcium contained in the hair fibre to be reduced after application, in comparison with composition A2.

A/ The strengthening is measured using the DSC technique.

(i) preparation of the locks

The measurements are performed on locks that have previously been bleached manually using a persulfate-based composition, and then treated 1/5/10 times according to the following protocol: the lock is washed with a neutral shampoo comprising an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant, then rinsed, 2 g of the test composition are applied to each 5.7 g lock of hair, the treatment is left on for 5 minutes, then rinsing is once again performed.

(ii) measurement method

The differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) technique is known to those skilled in the art as a method for quantifying the strengthening of proteins in the cortex of keratin fibres (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym. Sci., 48, 137 (1993). The principle of the test is to measure the protein denaturing temperature. It is widely acknowledged that the higher the protein denaturing temperature, the better the integrity of the proteins of the cortex, which reflects the reduction in fibre breakage.

The denaturing temperature is directly linked to the bonding density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex. Thus, the lower the denaturing temperature, the lower the bonding density between the proteins: the disulfide bridges break and the cortex is damaged. A difference of 2°C is acknowledged by those skilled in the art as a significant modification.

The machine used for taking the measurements is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference machine. This machine measures the energy flow during heating of the sample. The temperature of maximum energy flow represents the denaturing temperature.

(iii) results

The results of the denaturing temperature (Td) measurements for each of the locks treated according to the protocol described previously are summarized in the table below and correspond to the mean of three measurements taken per lock.

	Td (°C)	standard deviation
Natural lock (before bleaching treatment)	153.31	1.36
Untreated bleached lock	138.73	0.75
Bleached lock treated once with formulation A1	142.74	0.36
Bleached lock treated five times with formulation A1	155.80	0.17
Bleached lock treated 10 times with formulation A1	162.55	0.34
Bleached lock treated once with formulation A2	139.69	0.44
Bleached lock treated five times with formulation A2	142.12	0.41
Bleached lock treated 10 times with formulation A2	146.42	0.19

It is seen that the process according to the invention increases the bonding density of the keratin proteins presents in the cortex of the treated hair, thus enabling repair of the damaged hair.

B/ Analysis of the calcium by X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy

The measurements are performed on locks previously bleached and then treated ten times according to the following protocol: the lock is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2 g of composition A1 (or A2) are applied per 5.7 g lock of hair, the treatment is left on for 5 minutes and the locks are then washed.

The measurements are taken using a Brüker Tiger S8 X-ray fluorescence spectrometer, on a 30 mg sample of hair thus treated, ground and compressed.

The following results are obtained:

	Calcium concentration (ppm)
Untreated bleached lock	16 000
Bleached lock treated 10 times with formulation A1	6700
Bleached lock treated 10 times with formulation A2	13 800

Example 2

The following composition B according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below (g% AM):

Composition	B
Citric acid	3
Glycine	5
Glycerol	15
Propylene glycol	5
Cetrimonium chloride	0.5
Quaternium-80	0.4
Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolysed wheat protein	1
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil	0.8
Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80	1.5
Preserving agents	qs
Water	qs 100%

Composition B is in the form of a lotion and may be applied to the hair after a bleaching treatment.

It is found that this composition may be used for disentangling the hair, providing care, sheen and strength (slightly less suppleness than conventional care treatments, body, and a bulk effect).

The composition also has strengthening properties and allows the amount of calcium contained in the hair fibre to be reduced, application after application.

In a manner similar to that of Example 1, the denaturing temperature of locks of hair previously bleached manually using a persulfate-based composition, and then treated five times according to the following protocol, is measured.

Invention protocol: the lock is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2 g of composition B are applied per 5.7 g lock of hair, then without rinsing, 0.4 g/g of hair, of a conventional mask, is applied, left on for 5 minutes, then rinsed off.

Comparative protocol: the lock is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2 g of a conventional mask are applied, left on for 5 minutes, then rinsed off.

The following results are obtained:

	Td (°C)	Standard deviation
Natural lock (before bleaching treatment)	153.31	1.36
Untreated bleached lock	138.73	0.75
Bleached lock treated five times with the invention protocol	159.7	1.40
Bleached lock treated five times with the comparative protocol	140.8	0.32

Example 3

The following compositions C1 (lotion) and C2 (mask) are prepared according to the invention (% AM):

	C1
Glycine	5
Citric acid	3
Glycerol	15
Cationic guar	0.2
Amino silicone	0.4
Propylene glycol	5.4
Nonionic surfactants	1.5
Cetrimonium chloride	1
Hydroxypropyl guar	0.2
Preserving agents	qs
Water	qs 100

	C2
Glycine	1
Citric acid	2
Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter	0.5
Steareth-100	0.25
Cetyl esters	1.5
Cetearyl alcohol	7
PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer	0.14
Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone	0.3
Glycerol	1
Polyquaternium-37	0.08
Aminopropyl dimethicone	0.44
Behentrimonium chloride	3
Hydroxypropyl guar	0.15
Preserving agents	qs
Water	qs 100

Protocol according to the invention (P1)

The following routine is applied to previously washed 1-g locks of bleached Chinese hair 27 cm long:

- application of a shampoo at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per gram of hair; after a leave-on period of 1 minute, the hair is rinsed and wrung dry, and then

- application of composition C1 (lotion) at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per gram of hair; after a leave-on period of 5 minutes, the hair is rinsed and wrung dry; and then

- application of composition C2 (mask) at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per gram of hair; after a leave-on period of 5 minutes, the hair is rinsed and wrung dry, and then air-dried.

This routine was repeated 10 times.

The locks were then bleached with the product L'Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 9 (powder + oxidizing agent, ratio 1+1.5) at a rate of 10 g of composition per g of hair. The treatment was left on for 50 minutes at 33°C, and the hair was then rinsed with water and left to air dry.

Comparative protocol (P2)

No routine prior to the bleaching step.

The locks are bleached with the product L'Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 9 (powder + oxidizing agent, ratio 1+1.5) at a rate of 10 g of composition per g of hair. The treatment was left on for 50 minutes at 33°C, and the hair was then rinsed with water and left to air dry.

Colorimetric measurements are performed on the locks treated according to the process of the invention (P1) or via the comparative process (P2).

The colorimetric measurements were taken with a Datacolor SF600X spectrophotometer (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system before treatment (L_T0*) and then after treatment with protocol P1 or P2 (L_D*).
L* represents the lightness: the higher the value of L*, the lighter the colouring obtained.

The lightening performance is then determined: ΔL = L_D*- L_T0*

The following results are obtained (mean on three locks):

	L_T0*	L_D*	ΔL
P1 (invention)	54.21	70.02	15.81
P2 (comparative)	55.41	68.15	12.74

Protocol P1 according to the invention leads to a higher ΔL value, and thus to better lightening, in comparison with protocol P2.

Claims

Process for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres, notably the hair, comprising:
- a step (i) of applying to said fibres a cosmetic composition A comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or salts thereof, and
- a step (ii) of applying a dyeing or bleaching hair composition B, step (i) possibly being prior or subsequent to step (ii).
Process according to Claim 1, in which step (i) and step (ii) are separated by a time ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, notably ranging from 2 to 30 minutes, better still ranging from 5 to 15 minutes.
Process according either of to the preceding claims, in which the compounds of the amino acid type present in composition A are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) and/or salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, or zinc salts:
in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:
- when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C₁-C₄)alkyl;
- when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C₁-C₁₂)alkyl group, preferably a (C₁-C₄)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from –S–, –NH– or –C(NH)– and/or optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH₂), -SH, -COOH, -CONH₂ or –NH–C(NH)–NH₂ or a C5-C7 aryl group, notably phenyl, itself optionally substituted with one or more OH;
preferably in which p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C₁-C₄)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with a –S– heteroatom and/or optionally substituted with one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or –NH–C(NH)–NH₂; better still, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) of amino acid type are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof, notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferentially chosen from glycine, salts thereof, notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type in composition A is at least 0.5% by weight, better still ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which composition A comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two to three COOH groups; and/or salts thereof, notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts; preferably chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts; most particularly citric acid and/or tartaric acid and also salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and/or sodium tartrate; better still citric acid or salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or salts thereof, in composition A is at least 0.5% by weight, better still ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8 Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition A comprises one or more cationic surfactants, notably in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.4% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which composition A comprises one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums; and also mixtures thereof; in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition A comprises one or more nonionic polysaccharides, notably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from celluloses, galactomannans and nonionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers or esters thereof; better still, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C₆)alkyl groups, notably hydroxypropyl groups, and/or celluloses, which may be substituted or unsubstituted, and cellulose ethers, such as (C₁-C₄)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C₄)alkylcelluloses; preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C₆)alkyl, notably hydroxypropyl, groups; preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which composition A comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid C₆-C₁₈ hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; notably in a total amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 4% to 15% by weight, better still from 6% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which composition A comprises one or more silicones, preferably chosen from amino silicones; notably in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 4% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight and more preferentially from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition applied in step (ii) is a dye composition which comprises one or more colouring agents notably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition applied in step (ii) is a bleaching composition which may comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents, notably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, peracids and precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition applied in step (ii) comprises one or more organic or mineral alkaline agents; notably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium or potassium silicates or metasilicates or mixtures thereof; alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (III) below:

in which:
- W is a divalent C₁-C₆ alkylene group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a (C₁-C₆)alkyl group, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NR^u;
- R^x, R^y, ^Rz, R^t and R^u, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from (C₁-C₆)alkyl, C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or C₁-C₆ aminoalkyl.