WO2015079178A1 - Multifunctional heterogeneous sectorised technical fabric, which can be used for manufacturing miscellaneous items or finished products - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates in particular to a method for obtaining a multifunctional, heterogeneous, sectorised technical fabric that can be directly used for manufacturing miscellaneous items (7) or finished products. The invention includes the following steps: (a) defining and marking, on a template of a flexible part (1) belonging to the item to be produced, a multiplicity of respectively separate functional areas; (b) constructing a multisector fabric (3) comprising a multiplicity of respectively separate textile sectors, which correspond respectively to the areas defined in step (a), said areas being capable of being included in the various sectors, respectively; (c) weaving the fabric constructed according to step (b) such as to obtain a multisector fabric part; (d) providing means for cutting the fabric, which can be identified relative to the pattern of the latter; (e) cutting out and thus directly obtaining the flexible, one-piece, yet multifunctional part. The invention can be used in various industries, in particular in the footwear industry, for which the upper can be obtained directly according to the method previously described.

Description

 Multifunctional heterogeneous sectorized technical fabric, directly used to manufacture various articles or finished products

The present invention is in the field of textiles for technical use, or technical fabrics, that is to say, textile or woven materials, for which the choice of textile materials and / or weaving is, as principal, carried out according to or guided by certain functions, properties, technical characteristics or practices of the resulting fabric.

 More particularly, the invention is concerned with technical fabrics comprising technical threads, of simple or complex construction, having themselves one or more technical characteristic (s), chosen for one or more applications (s). ) determined (s) of the technical fabric obtained by their weaving.

 As the skilled person knows, conventionally, any technical fabric remains a fabric, that is to say an assembly, interlacing, or intertwining of son, for example rectilinear, namely warp and weft, essentially in the same plane, according to at least two dimensions, or directions, namely warp and weft; the present invention does not intend to exclude the technical fabrics, called 3D, that is to say that have a certain thickness. And, conventionally, such a technical fabric can be defined by, in addition to its own characteristics, including the nature of the son component, construction, structure, or the elementary pattern of weaving, likely a representation or schematic or graphic definition , which repeats periodically in the direction of the warp and / or the direction of the warp. It is this elementary pattern, conventionally defined by the armor (including type, ratio, or rhythm), possibly the unclamping, the density of the warp and weft threads, or texture, and / or any other relevant weaving parameters, such as transparency, which allows a person skilled in the art to choose the loom required for weaving, and to prepare it for obtaining, in a single weaving operation, the same piece of technical fabric, whose width , or width, will correspond, with the borders near, that of the passage of the threads of weft.

Therefore, conventionally, the same piece of a technical fabric, or any technical fabric has a structure or construction monolith ordered, and therefore homogeneous, from one end of the warp to the other, and / or from one selvedge to the other in the weft direction, since repeating the same pattern or the same elementary weave construction.

 Assuming that it is "technical", in the sense defined above, this is exactly what describes and shows the document WO 2013/103 363, in particular with reference to its FIG. 5. This document describes various fabrics, of the gauze type. or grid (mesh in English), that is to say having a significant transparency, but remaining conventional or traditional in their construction or structure, in that they repeat the same pattern of weaving in the direction of the chain and / or the meaning of the frame. Thus, considering paragraph 0086 of the description of WO 2013/103363, in combination with Figs. 1 and 5, this document discloses a gauze-type fabric assembling high strength warp yarns (for example, Nylon®) with weft yarns of low strength (eg polyester) and repeating one and the same elementary pattern of weaving, namely a grid-like pattern.

 The present invention is now presented, and explained in the context of the manufacture or production of various articles or finished products, worked or manufactured, such as certain footwear, for example shoes adapted to the practice of a sport, in particular a racket sport. But, of course, this context chosen to illustrate the various and varied possibilities and applications of the present invention can not be retained to limit the interpretation and scope of the claims below.

 Today, as shown by WO 2013/103 363, various articles or products manufactured or manufactured, such as shoes adapted to the practice of a sport, for example a racket sport, comprise one or more parts, parts or components, flexible material (s) and thin, such as the "stem" (upper in English) of the shoe. These parts or parts are functional, in that they must, respectively in different areas of the rod and / or shoe, provide one or more technical or practical performance respectively different, such as abrasion resistance, breathability, maintenance, flexibility, etc., and where appropriate an aesthetic appearance.

In general, for the same piece, such as the upper of a sports shoe, the technical performance expected or obtained differ from one zone to another, and / or for the same technical performance, have respectively different values depending on the zones concerned.

 As does not indicate WO 2013/103 636, taking the example of a racquet sports shoe, and considering the left or right foot, the rod must ensure a foot support, roughly left sides and right, and in the center, and remain flexible at the front of the foot and in the center along the axis of the shoe.

 In order to reconcile these different technical / practical requirements according to the zones considered in one and the same room, for example the upper of a sports shoe, the only solution today practiced consists, essentially, in assembling it. that is to say join and / or superimpose, for example by sewing or gluing, different previously cut pieces in respectively different materials, for example soft fabric and resistant fabric; each of these pieces bringing, in the zone where it is arranged on the piece obtained by assembly, approximately one and the same function, for example a support on either side of the foot in the case of a snowshoe sports shoe. .

 At the industrial or manufacturing level, to reconcile technical / practical requirements differentiated according to the considered areas of one and the same piece, it is therefore constrained to achieve or obtain an assembly of a multiplicity of roughly mono-functional pieces, previously obtained, by example cut, in soft materials and thin, very different from each other, for example leather, fabric, plastic sheet material.

 This technical and industrial approach makes it possible, of course, to obtain a part, for example a shoe upper, with properties or characteristics differentiated according to the areas thereof considered, but obviously at the cost of complexity and design, and manufacturing / production.

Indeed, in addition to the fact that different materials are used for the aforementioned purposes, the assembly can be achieved in practice only by manual operations, such as sewing or gluing, and lends little or no automation for articles large series, such as sports shoes. Moreover, such an assembly, as well as it is, generates lines of weakness or less resistance, precisely according to the grouting lines between the pieces assembled.

 This is shown in WO 2013/103363, for example with reference to the embodiment according to FIGS. 20A to 20C. When it comes to bringing certain areas of the shoe specific properties, for example to promote the binding of the shoe with the foot, the constituent fabric of the rod is lined inside, and therefore assembled with different strips and / or an intermediate layer.

 Therefore, when it comes to bringing into a finished flexible piece, such as the upper of a shoe, different properties or characteristics depending on the considered areas of said piece, the state of the art, just as the document WO 2013/103363 (which essentially describes a shoe with a decorative purpose or fashion) discloses only assembly solutions, surface and / or thickness, with different parts or components of the constituent fabric of the piece, referred to the places of the latter.

 Therefore, according to the state of the art, including WO 2013/103 363, it is not known to differentiate and assign different functions or properties in the same finished flexible piece, fabric, apart from any appropriate and localized assembly of elements reported on the fabric.

 The present invention aims to remedy the disadvantages previously identified.

 The present invention relates to a technical fabric, considered as a semi-product, or more exactly pre-product, or direct precursor of a textile piece, itself essential for the manufacture, obtaining, or production of an article , or finished product, for example the stem of a sports shoe.

 The present invention relates to such a technical fabric, defined case by case, from the aforementioned textile part, analyzed and considered in situ, that is to say in the finished product in which it integrates or takes on the one hand, once the said product has been manufactured.

The subject of the present invention is such a technical fabric defined on the basis of the properties, technical or practical characteristics, differentiated according to the zones considered of the textile part, as a function of the use, use, or properties sought for the article to which the textile piece belongs after manufacture.

 The present invention relates to a technical fabric, designed and obtained from the functions and properties differentiated by design or according to the use of the textile piece and / or the finished product in which said textile piece integrates.

 The present invention also relates to obtaining a multifunctional flexible piece, for example an article of footwear rod, breaking with the current conceptual and industrial practice, including that described by WO 2013/103 363.

 The object of the present invention is to obtain a multifunctional flexible piece, of the technical textile type, of small thickness, capable of being shaped in three-dimensional form, or of shaping, to obtain directly, or indirectly, in particular with other components, an article or finished product.

 More precisely, the subject of the invention is the production of a single piece, or one-piece, multifunctional, by contrast, for the same purposes or for the same object, multiple pieces, each and each monofunctional (s), assembled to each other.

 The invention also relates to a flexible piece of technical fabric, monolithic or monobloc, having the same thickness or a variable thickness, but multifunctional, in the sense that different individualized areas of said piece have properties / characteristics respectively different technical or practical d one discrete zone to another.

 By "monolithic" or "monoblock" is meant that the technical fabric according to the invention is a single woven piece, as obtained in a single weaving operation.

 In all its generality, the present invention is characterized in that:

(a) According to the use or the destination of the article or finished product, in the composition of which between the multifunctional flexible piece, and in particular the stresses to which said article is subjected, is defined and marked on a jig of the flexible piece flat a multiplicity of functional areas to which are assigned functions, properties / characteristics respectively different from one zone to another;

 This step constitutes the "mapping" step according to the invention, in the sense that, in a suitable reference, generally orthogonal (weft perpendicular to the chain), with regard to the weaving which will be discussed below, it allows to differentiate in the article or finished product, but on the multifunctional flexible part, areas of the latter, depending on the functions, properties, or local characteristics required. These zones will then be delimited, in shape and size, and located in the selected reference frame, itself in general spotted or "wedged" with respect to the article or finished product.

 To take the example of an article of footwear, the orthogonal reference mark chosen will be keyed to that of the shoe, right or left, and in particular its axis of asymmetry, which preferentially corresponds to the axis of the weft of the technical fabric of which it will be discussed below.

In this orthogonal reference, different zones will be distinguished according to the functions, properties or characteristics that are locally important for the use of the shoe, for example:

 - resistance to abrasion at the front of the foot,

 - support of the foot, in the middle, left and right of the shoe,

 - breathability in the middle of the foot,

 - flexibility, deformability in other places,

 - etc.

 These mapped areas are then used to build the technical fabric according to step (b).

 A monolithic or one-piece, but heterogeneous, technical fabric is constructed because it is multisectors, that is to say comprising a multiplicity of discrete textile sectors, that is to say of individualized elements of tissues, and therefore of elementary constructions respectively. different, by at least one of the following parameters:

- the armor (including, for example, the type, and / or the ratio, and / or the rhythm, and / or the disconnection, etc.), and / or the density of the warp yarns and / or the assembled weft threads, or texture,

 - the nature, in particular chemical nature, and / or the proper construction of the yarns, and / or their respective titles,

 the treatment of the yarns before and / or after their assembly, the textile sectors being defined, or this or these parameter (s) being chosen in relation to said sectors, so that, on the one hand, these sectors correspond to the zones defined on the template in step (a), which can be included in the different textile sectors respectively, and secondly the properties / characteristics of the different sectors are those identified or retained for the different zones defined in step (a) respectively;

(c) in accordance with the construction selected according to (b), retaining and preparing a suitable loom. With the latter, the fabric constructed according to step (b) is woven, to obtain directly, that is to say in a single weaving operation, as a semi-finished product, the same piece of multisector fabric;

 (d) there are multisector fabric cutting means arranged to cut flat in the latter the multifunctional flexible piece; these cutting means are identifiable with respect to the design of the textile sectors on the width of the multisector fabric, so that the zones defined in step (a) register individually and respectively in the different textile sectors defined in step ( b);

 (e) with the cutting means positioned and marked with respect to the multisector technical fabric piece, the flexible piece, monolithic or monolithic, but multifunctional, is cut and obtained directly.

The present invention described above in all its generality leads to a new technical fabric, that is to say obtained directly in one and the same weaving operation. This fabric is characterized in that it generally has a monolithic or monobloc construction or structure, as opposed to a patched or stacked structure, that is to say obtained by assembling, for example sewing, different or identical pieces. Nevertheless, according to the invention, this monolithic structure is heterogeneous as to its constitution, that is to say that it comprises a multiplicity of textile sectors, that is to say woven, discrete, that is to say -description of individualized elements of fabrics, whose ordered construction differs from one textile sector to another, following the direction of the warp and / or that of the weft. Still, according to the present invention, these discrete textile or woven sectors differ from each other, for example two by two, adjacent or separated from each other, by at least one of the following parameters:

 - the armor (including, for example, the type, and / or ratio, and / or rhythm, and / or disconnection, etc.), and / or the density, or texture, of the warp yarns and / or weft, assembled, interlaced, or intertwined;

 the nature, in particular chemical nature, of said wires, and / or their own construction;

 the treatment of said wires before and / or after their assembly.

 So that the properties, functions, or technical or practical characteristics of the different textile sectors are respectively different, for example considered two by two, adjacent or separate from one another, in particular according to the direction of the chain and / or that of the frame.

 Considered at the scale or level of the same textile sector, these same properties, functions, or technical or practical characteristics may be identical, similar, homogeneous, or interdependent from one point to another of the textile sector in question.

 A technical fabric according to the present invention is essentially rectilinear son and / or mixtiligne, in the sense that it is the woven structure that gives it essentially its consistency, especially its quasi-deformability, which does not exclude that :

 this same fabric may comprise knitted portions of limited extension, reported or integrated into the structure of the fabric;

some textile sectors may be over-woven, or assembled, especially lined with other textile elements, or other, reported during the weaving operation, or after the latter, for example for aesthetic purposes. Each textile sector, that is to say each individualized fabric element, has any suitable shape and size, adapted to circumscribe the shape and dimensions of the zone of the multifunctional flexible part that must be inscribed and cut into said sector of the technical fabric. This form is generally quadrangular, square or rectangular, when a loom other than Jacquard is used to weave a piece of fabric according to the invention.

 A piece or a technical fabric according to the invention can be constructed so that one or more pattern (s), identical or different, are repeated on the fabric along the axis or the direction of the chain, and / or according to the axis or the direction of the frame, each pattern being constituted or constructed according to the invention, that is to say being itself a technical fabric of monolithic structure or monobloc, but heterogeneous because having a multiplicity of sectors discrete textiles, whose ordered woven construction differs from one textile sector to another.

 A technical fabric according to the invention may comprise one or more textile sector (s) having a structure / three-dimensional construction, that is to say 3D, or having a certain thickness, while the others are two-dimensional or bidirectional , or 2D, all these sectors remaining obtained by one and the same weaving operation.

 A technical fabric according to the invention can be obtained with any suitable loom, comprising a number of frames adapted to the complexity, including the number of different textile sectors, said fabric, for example a rapier weaving loom having sixteen frames or blades.

 When a Jacquard loom is used, the individual control of the warp yarns makes it possible to obtain one or more textile sectors of a shape other than rectangular, with complete freedom as to the shape of the woven textile sectors. according to the present invention.

 A technical fabric according to the present invention thus makes it possible to gather, and especially zone or locate, on one and the same flexible piece, such as the upper of a shoe, all the properties / characteristics sought or designed with respect to the article or finished product in which said piece takes place or integrates.

A technical fabric according to the invention therefore makes it possible, not only to gain weight, but also to limit the work force. required for the manufacture of the finished product, to the strict minimum, or even to consider an automated production of the latter.

 In view of its own characteristics, previously described and exemplified below, a technical fabric according to the present invention has multiple applications, among which:

 obtaining footwear, especially sports shoes,

 luggage,

 gloves,

 - personal protective equipment,

 medical devices, such as parietal prostheses.

 The present invention relates to any use or use of a pattern, and more generally of a technical fabric as defined above, to obtain directly by cutting flat in the fabric at least one flexible piece of monolithic or monobloc construction, but heterogeneous, because having a multiplicity of discrete textile zones, having functions, properties / characteristics respectively different from one zone to another; each discrete textile zone being, by definition, an individualized fabric element, the ordered construction of which differs from one textile zone to another, in the direction of the warp and / or weft, by at least one of the parameters following:

 the weave and / or the density of the son of the warp threads and / or the assembled weft threads;

 the particular chemical nature of said wires, and / or their own construction;

 the treatment of said son before and / or after assembly. For this purpose, if cutting means are available, for example by laser or by punch, it is possible to position and locate these only with respect to the drawing or arrangement of the textile sectors on the technical fabric, so that the functional zones are inscribed individually and respectively in the different textile sectors of the fabric.

The present invention relates to a flexible piece, monolithic or monobloc, but heterogeneous, obtainable or obtained by use or implementation of a pattern, more generally of a technical fabric identical to that defined above, and in particular of a piece flexible having a multiplicity of discrete textile areas, also as defined above.

 The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing an article, or finished product, comprising a flexible piece of multisectorized technical fabric according to the invention, defined and described above. Thanks to the invention, it is this flexible piece which directly confers properties / technical or practical characteristics differing from one zone or discrete part to another of said article, including said flexible part.

 To make such an article, one can:

 leaving or having a flexible piece as defined above;

 shaping said flexible piece;

 and, where appropriate, assembling said shaped flexible member with one or more other components of the same article, to obtain an article or finished product.

 With the present invention, there is no need to locate, orient or control the orientation of the flexible part, relative to other components or parts with which it is assembled or mounted to obtain the article or the finished product.

 Such a finished article is, for example, an article of footwear, in particular a sports shoe, for example a shoe for the practice of a racket sport; and in this case, the flexible piece, defined or described above, is directly and essentially the upper of the article of footwear.

The present invention therefore relates to an article of footwear, in particular a sports shoe, for example a shoe for the practice of a sport, for example a racket sport, whose upper is constituted by or comprises a technical fabric, construction ₇ or monolithic or monoblock structure, but heterogeneous, since it comprises a multiplicity of discrete textile sectors, each constituting an individualized element of fabric, the ordered construction of which differs from one textile sector to another, in the direction of the warp and / or that of the frame, by at least one of the following parameters:

the armor (including, for example, the type, and / or the ratio, and / or the disconnection, and / or the rhythm, etc.), and / or the density of the warp yarns and / or weft threads assembled, the nature, in particular chemical nature, of said wires, and / or their own construction,

 treating said threads before and / or after making the footwear,

 so that the properties, or technical or practical characteristics of the rod differ from one discrete area to another of the latter.

 An article of footwear made according to the present invention makes it possible to optimally reconcile good dynamic performance, or other, of the shoe, with a still low weight, while ensuring effective maintenance of the foot.

 When using in the present description the terms "multi" or "several" in relation to the zones of the flexible part of the manufactured article, or the sectors of the technical fabric according to the invention, an integer at least equal to two, and in particular at least three, must be considered.

 The term "article" or "product" refers to an object, for example manufactured, ready for use or a given use, such as a footwear, for example a sports shoe.

 The term "fabric" refers to a half-product, semi-product, or pre-product, which must itself be worked, crafted, or shaped, to obtain a component, such as a flexible part, or directly an article or finished product.

 By "thread" is meant, as understood in the textile industry, any one-dimensional wick having a length greater than its width and / or thickness, comprising filaments, spun, fibers, continuous or discontinuous yarns, cables, or the like , consisting of various materials in general technical, that is to say having functional / improved properties / characteristics.

For example, warp yarns and / or weft yarns of the technical fabric according to the invention, in particular all or part of the textile sectors, each comprise at least one mechanically resistant material, for example a high tenacity polyamide (PA HT ), and / or a para-aramid, and / or an abrasion-resistant material, for example a polyamide, and are optionally coated, for example with a polyurethane, optionally filled with ceramic. Preferably, the son of the fabric, warp and / or weft, according to the invention have substantially the same title, expressed for example in DTex.

 According to the present invention, the warp yarns and / or the weft yarns individually have a simple construction, for example a monofilament, or a complex construction, for example by assembling by torsion of several elementary threads, or by wrapping a or several wires around a wired soul.

 The term "flexible part" refers to any part as obtained by cutting, by any appropriate means (for example by punching, or laser cutting), identified or registered in relation to the drawing, generated or constituted by the arrangement of the different textile sectors, present on the technical fabric according to the invention. This flexible piece comprises a multiplicity of textile zones, resulting directly from the registered cutting of the multisector fabric, these zones having respectively different functions, properties or characteristics, which are exactly those of the different sectors of the technical fabric in which the cuts of the different zones are made. are listed respectively. This flexible piece therefore has ultimately the same construction, and therefore the same consistency as those of the technical fabric used to cut it, and can be shaped directly, without further special measures, to achieve the article or finished product sought.

 Even if their functions, properties, characteristics are essentially the same, for the clarity of the explanations below, the term "sector" will be reserved for the technical fabric, and the term "zone" to the multifunctional flexible part, or to the flexible part of the article or product obtained with said part. According to the present invention, a zone may result from the cutting in a corresponding sector of the technical fabric.

 According to a preferred, but not exclusive, embodiment of the invention, the fabric is constructed so that one or more rectangular patterns, themselves multisectors as defined above, identical or different, are repeated on the fabric according to the invention. the axis of the warp and / or the axis of the weft.

Each pattern is capable of being cut to obtain at least one multifunctional flexible piece according to the invention. In the case of an article of footwear, for example a sports shoe, this industrial modality allows to obtain by cutting in the same piece of technical fabric, not only the two rods (left and right feet) of the same pair of shoes. shoes, but also pairs of different sizes.

 In some cases, in particular to give a certain rigidity in certain areas of the flexible piece, or the article or finished product, for example at the level of the stick of a shoe, after weaving, at least one sector of the fabric, or at least one zone of the flexible part, comprises hot-melt warp and / or weft son, so as to be adapted to a posterior heat treatment for binding and fixing the son to each other, for example to form and / or stiffen the flexible part.

 The present invention relates to a technical fabric that can be obtained by sequencing the steps according to the invention defined above, namely (a) (mapping), (b) (construction of the technical fabric), and (c) weaving the fabric in a single weaving operation.

 A technical fabric according to the invention, considered as a semi-finished product, semi-finished product, or pre-product, has the appearance of a "patchwork" (but without seams or other connections) or "mosaic" of sectors, for example of rectangular shape, respectively different according to at least one of the following parameters:

 the armor (including, for example, the type, and / or the ratio, the disconnection, the rhythm, etc.), and / or the density of the yarns, the nature, in particular chemical nature, and / or the construction of the son, - the treatment of the wires before and / or after their assembly.

These multiple textile sectors or woven respectively different, depending on the direction of the frame and / or the direction of the chain, consequently have functions, properties, or characteristics respectively different from one sector to another. These respectively different properties / characteristics are directly the consequence of woven constructions ordered respectively different according to the sectors of the fabric. They will then be directly those of the different zones respectively of the flexible piece obtained directly by marked cutting of the technical fabric according to the invention, for example in a pattern provided for this purpose on the latter, as indicated above. By considering a technical fabric as defined above, the invention makes it possible to functionalize the latter at will, or case by case, according to warp and / or weft, in correspondence with the cartography retained or designed for the article or finished product obtained with a technical fabric according to the invention. The recorded cut will translate exactly the cartography thus retained.

 Furthermore, the invention eliminates completely the possible asymmetry of the article or finished product in which the flexible part fits, such a pair of shoes, for which, for the same shoe, the left side differs from the right side, and the right shoe differs from the left shoe. In such a case, according to the invention, it is possible to construct the same piece of fabric having two patterns side by side or one above the other, one for the left foot and the other for the right foot. , differing from each other by the asymmetrical construction of these same textile sectors, or textile sectors "mirrors", that is to say which correspond by rotation at 180 ° about an axis in the sheet or the plane of the fabric.

 Such a result can not be obtained by the method according to WO 2013/103 363, according to which, whether it is the left foot or the right foot, the flexible piece or stem obtained, in this case the fabric of the stem , has exactly the same construction according to warp and / or weft of the fabric.

 Thanks to the invention, the asymmetry of a flexible piece no longer opposes its differentiated zoning in a single layer technical fabric, in the same way that two flexible pieces identical in their zoning, but not superimposable, can be obtained in the same room or width of monolayer technical fabric.

 The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing an article or finished product, incorporating, comprising, or constituted by a multifunctional flexible part, which confers, completely or in part, the functions, properties / technical or practical characteristics which are its own, in this case properties / characteristics different from one discrete zone to another of said part, to said article or finished product.

 According to this method:

(a) one leaves or has a flexible piece, monobloc or monolithic, multifunctional, as defined above; (b) forming or forming said flexible piece;

 (c) where appropriate, assembling the shaped flexible part with one or more other components of said article,

to obtain an article or finished product.

 Consequently, the invention relates to any article or product obtained or capable of being obtained by a process as defined above. Such an article may comprise one or more flexible parts according to the present invention, that is to say each monobloc or monolith, but heterogeneous, because multifunctional, or with a multiplicity of different textile sectors respectively.

 By way of example of such an article, an article of footwear will be considered below, and more particularly a sports shoe, for example a shoe for the practice of a racket sport. In such a case, the upper is directly a multifunctional flexible piece obtained as defined above.

 The present invention is now described, according to two examples, for obtaining the rod (multifunctional flexible piece), then a racquet sports shoe, in this case tennis, and this with reference to the figures below. , to know :

 Figure 1, which shows flat asymmetric shank 1 of a tennis shoe, left foot, revealing lacing holes 2, on either side of an axial notch 30 (see axis of asymmetry 20 ), for the passage of a lace; - Figures 2 and 3 respectively represent a first and a second map, or template 41 and 42 respectively, of the same rod shown in Figure 1; apart from the cutting line 50, and the cut piece 51 in gray, Figures 4 and 5 show two patterns 61 and 62 drawn or plotted in respectively different technical fabrics according to the invention, in a chain reference (6) / weft (5) of the fabric to which they belong, constructed according to the maps or templates 41 and 42 of Figures 2 and 3 respectively;

FIG. 6 schematically and flatly shows a piece 3 of technical fabric comprising patterns 4 repeated according to the direction of the weft 5, and also in the direction of the chain 6, each pattern having for example a textile construction according to FIG. 4 explained with reference to Example 1, or according to FIG. 5 explained with reference to Example 2;

 - Figure 7 shows schematically, in section, an article of footwear 7, for example a sports shoe, more particularly a tennis shoe, comprising or incorporating a flexible piece 1, multifunctional, previously shaped, constituting the upper of the shoe then assembled by gluing or thermo-adhesion with a sole 8.

According to Figure 1, is represented flat the rod 1 of a sports shoe, in this case a tennis shoe, for example shown schematically in section in Figure 7, from which the present invention is now be explained.

 Conventionally, this rod is a flexible piece, constituted by the assembly of adjacent and / or superimposed, by gluing and / or sewing, different pieces of different materials, flexible and thin, for example leather, fabric, or plastic sheet material, etc. We will not go into detail of this assembly, which is shown in Figure 1 in a simplified manner by different drawings within the line 71 delimiting the flat of the shoe.

 With reference to the axis of asymmetry, for example by considering the forward direction towards the rear of the shoe, and / or the outer / inner direction of the shoe, from left to right according to FIG. 1, it is of course possible to locate or position on a template 41 or 42, different areas of the rod, defined elsewhere in shape and dimensions, in this case rectangular, to which one assigns various dependent functions or related to the use or the performance of the shoe, or for which the manufacturer / designer of the shoe requires different properties, or technical or practical characteristics, differentiated according to the areas considered.

By "axis of asymmetry", in this case for a shoe, is meant the intersection of a horizontal plane with the sagittal plane of a foot, on either side of which, as shown in FIG. the two halves of the shoe receiving said foot are respectively different, at least as to their respective shapes. Among these properties, for example:

 the abrasion resistance which, in certain areas, must be important because of the possible friction of the upper of the shoe with the ground,

 - the maintenance of the foot in certain parts of the stem, which requires that the flexible material of the stem has a certain toughness or low elongation under tension,

 a certain permeability, or transparency, allowing the "breathing" of the foot, or breathability,

 - In some places, a deformability of the flexible piece or rod, for the comfort of the foot,

 and still in other places, the technical possibility of being thermoformed, for example at the place of the heel reinforcement ("counter") of the stem and therefore of the shoe.

 The skilled person, that is to say, the designer / builder of the sports shoe, is therefore led to differentiate the properties of the rod 1 according to the functional areas of the latter, according to or in correspondence with the use of the shoe, and in particular the desired performance. This differentiated approach to the tennis shoe, for example, will lead this manufacturer / designer, for the same shoe upper, to different "zonings", in terms of properties and characteristics, according to the models proposed or offered to the user.

 According to Figures 2 and 3, from the template of the rod shown in Figure 1, and identified as previously indicated, that is to say from the axis of asymmetry 20, from the front to the rear of the shoe, taking into account the stresses to which it is subject, we can establish or choose two different zoning respectively according to the templates 41 and 42 of Figures 2 and 3 respectively.

 In a first example, according to FIG. 2, there is a reference consisting of four lines parallel to the axis of asymmetry 20, namely the two rectilinear borders of the template, namely 23 on the left and 24 on the right, and two intermediate lines 21 and 22, on the right side of the template, and from left to right:

first two zones Ai (between lines 23 and 21), and A ₂ (between lines 21 and 22), adjacent, on both sides respectively line 21, together forming a band A frame, which will each have to withstand abrasion;

 two second zones Bi (between the lines 23 and 21), and Bi (between the lines 21 and 22), adjacent, on both sides respectively of the line 21, forming together a band B in weft, which must each be flexible, permeable breathable, while maintaining the foot;

 a third rectangular area Ci (between the lines 23 and 21), which will contribute to the maintenance of the foot, a fourth rectangular zone C2 (between the lines 21 and 22) which must particularly withstand abrasion, and again a third zone Ci, who will contribute to the maintenance of the foot; the areas C1 / C2 / C1 together form a band C in frame;

a fifth zone D1 (between lines 23 and 21), another fifth zone D ₂ (between lines 21 and 22), and again a fifth zone D1, which will each have to maintain the foot and its breathing; areas D1, D ₂ and D ₃ together form a band D frame;

a sixth zone E1 (between the lines 23 and 21), another sixth zone E ₂ (between the lines 21 and 22), and again a sixth zone E1, which will each have to maintain the foot, while allowing thermoforming of the stem; the zones Ei, E ₂ , Ei together form a band E in frame.

In the zoning previously defined, by convention, areas for which identical or similar properties are required are designated by the same letter and the same index; for example, Ci refers to the same zone, said third zone, which, on both sides of a zone C ₂ , should contribute to the maintenance of the foot. And the capital letters A to E, from the front to the back of the shoe, refer to different weft bands staggered from the front to the back of the shoe, each comprising a series of zones as previously selected. ; for example, refers to a narrow band at the front of the shoe, which will have to withstand abrasion, while E refers to a wide band at the back of the shoe, which will need to maintain the foot , while allowing a thermoforming of the rod. In a different way, according to a second example, with reference to the template 42 according to FIG. 3, another zoning of the stem 1 of this same shoe, which establishes, still in the same reference:

two first rectangular zones A ₁ and A ₂ , on both sides respectively of the axis of asymmetry 20, which will each have to withstand abrasion;

two second rectangular zones Bi and B ₂ , respectively on both sides of the axis of asymmetry 20, which must each be flexible and breathable, while ensuring a foot support;

two third rectangular areas C1 and C2, on both sides respectively of the axis of asymmetry 20, which must each provide a first hold of the foot and breathing; - two fourth rectangular areas D1 and _D2 on both sides respectively of the axis of asymmetry 20 which will each provide a second foot support and breathing;

two fifths zones E1 and _E2 on both sides respectively of the axis of asymmetry 20 which will each provide a third foot support, with the ability to thermoform the stem.

 It will be observed that the previously defined zonings according to FIGS. 2 and 3 may differ from one another, essentially in that zones of different densities are distributed differently in the width of the jig 41 or 42. According to FIG. an overdensified zone between the two lines 21 and 22, parallel to the axis of asymmetry, with two zones of identical and normal density on either side of it. According to FIG. 3, a zone of normal density and a zone of higher density, with the same extension in width, are disposed on either side of the axis of asymmetry 20.

From a template 41 or 42 zoned as above, that is to say according to the functional or functional choice, technical or practical, or performance of the designer / builder of the shoe, and therefore the rod, it is constructed according to chain 6 and frame 5 a pattern, respectively 61 or 62, or a piece of technical fabric comprising it, having a structure monolithic or monobloc, but heterogeneous, because resulting from the choices of textile construction exemplified below.

 In practice :

 as shown in FIGS. 4 and 5, to construct the technical fabrics 31 and 32 respectively, two types of warping Oi and O2 are used respectively, differing from one another by the density of the warp yarns, the title and / or the construction, and / or the nature of said wires; according to FIG. 4, the warping O1 is the same between the warp lines 203 and 201, corresponding to the lines 23 and 21 of the template 41, and the lines 202 and 204 corresponding to the lines 22 and 24 of the template 41, while a different warping O2 is used between the lines according to chain 201 and 202; according to FIG. 5, the warping O1 between the warp lines 203 and 200 (corresponding to the asymmetry axis 20 of the template 42) is different from the warping O2 used between the lines 200 and 204;

 as also shown in FIGS. 4 and 5, to construct the technical fabrics 31 and 32, arrangements of the different weft threads are implemented according to the weft bands (a) to (e) shown in each of FIGS. ; these arrangements of weft yarns, determined by differently arranged frames, differ from each other by the density of the weft yarns, the title, and / or the construction, and / or the nature of said yarns;

 the pattern 61 or 62 of the technical fabric 31 or 32 may correspond, in shape and / or in dimensions, to the template 41 or 42 retained;

it follows from the previous textile construction that the technical fabric obtained is broken up into different discrete textile elements, individualized, or textile sectors (ai to di; a2 to β2), identical in shape and / or dimensions to the different template areas; textile sectors that have been designed and constructed individually to meet the functional or technical specificities expected for the different zones (Ai to E1, A ₂ to E ₂ ) respectively; to this end, not only the warp and / or weft yarns are differentiated, for example by their chemical nature and / or their own technical characteristics, and / or their construction, but above all, the differentiated construction, or composite warping, of warp threads, in the weft direction, and as well as the mode or modes of differentiated intertwining of the weft threads, in the warp direction, make it possible to dispose (in the warp / weft mark) and vary to will the different textile sectors obtained on the pattern 61 or 62 of the technical fabric.

 Thus, the person skilled in the art, with any loom of today, designs and manufactures all patrons or pieces of sectorized technical fabrics, shown by way of example in Figures 4 and 5 respectively, and whose different textile sectors indicated by a lower case letter respectively correspond to the different areas indicated by a capital letter in Figures 2 and 3 respectively.

 The two patterns 61 and 62, represented in FIGS. 4 and 5 respectively, belong to the two different multi-sectored technical fabrics 31 and 32 respectively.

 To build these two different technical fabrics, namely 31 and 32, first of all, there are son differing from each other by their chemical nature, and / or their construction, referenced CA chain, CB, TA, and frame TB, TC, TD, in Examples 1 and 2 below. In these, are explained both the physical characteristics and the chemical composition of these son.

 Then, the elementary or discrete textile sectors to be obtained by a single weaving operation can be differentiated by the choice of constructions or armor used from one sector to another, as shown in Examples 1 and 2 below.

 Finally, it is possible to vary the density or texture of the warp yarns and / or weft yarns, to result in different textile or woven sectors, as also shown in Examples 1 and 2 below.

 The fabrics according to Examples 1 and 2 below are obtained by weaving with a loom with sixteen frames.

Example 1 - Fabric 31 of Figure 4 Chain yarns: CA = 1,100 Dtex PER 16% / PA HT 67% / PU 17%

 (in weight of the wire)

 CB = 1,100 Dtex PER 37% / PA HT 40% / PU 23%

Weft yarn TA = 1,100 Dtex PER 16% / PA HT 67% / PU 17%

 TB = 1,100 Dtex PA HT 86% / PU 14%

 TC = 1,100 Dtex PER 37% / PA HT 40% / PU 23% TD = 1,100 Dtex CoPolyamide 100%

PAR = para-aramid, for example Kevlar®

PA HT = high tenacity polyamide, for example Cordura®

PU = polyurethane

 CoPolyamide = hot melt polyamide (low melting temperature) Chain:

 Chain yarn and Rhythm chain = 6 x (220 CA / 100 CB / 60 CA) = 2 280 threads Chain density: O1 = 13.44 threads / cm / O2 = 16.80 threads / cm -> stamp =

 160.5 cm

With reference to FIG. 4, the distance 203/201 is 18 cm, the distance between 201 and 202 is 7.5 cm, and between 202 and 204 is 3.5 cm.

Wefts and Armor used:

Band a = 42 TB Canvas (1 1 duets / cm)

Band b = 84 TA 2/2 satin (15 picks / cm)

Band c = 68 TC Canvas (1 1 pick / cm)

Band d = 1 10 TC Twill 3/1 (13 picks / cm)

Band e = 108 TD (1 1 pick / cm)

Total design report = 412

For example, the textile sector (ai), having a plain weave differs from the textile sector (32), having a plain weave, by the construction of the warp threads, and the textile sector (bi), having a braided armor , by the construction of the weft threads. Example 2 - Fabric 32 of Figure

Chain yarns: CA = 1,100 Dtex PER 16% / PA HT 67% / PU 17%

 (in weight of the wire)

 CB = 1,100 Dtex PA HT 86% / PU 14% weft: TA = 1,100 Dtex PER 16% / PA HT 67% / PU 17%

 TB = 1,100 Dtex PA HT 86% / PU 14%

 TC = 1,100 Dtex PER 37% / PA HT 40% / PU 23% TD = 1,100 Dtex CoPolyamide 100%

Chain:

 Chain Yarn and Chain Rhythm = 6 x (180 CA / 226 CB) = 2,436 threads

Density chain: 01 = 13,44 threads / cm / 02 = 16,80 threads / cm -> stamping

 161 cm

With reference to Figure 5, the distance 203/200, or 200/204 is 145 cm.

Wefts and Armor used:

Band a = 42 TB Canvas (1 1 duets / cm)

Band b = 84 TA 2/2 satin (15 picks / cm)

Band c = 68 TC Canvas (1 1 pick / cm)

Band d = 128 TC Twill 2/2 (15 picks / cm)

Band e = 108 TD (1 1 pick / cm)

Total Drawing Report = 430

For example, the textile sector (ai), having a plain weave differs from the textile sector (32), having a plain weave, by the construction of the warp threads, and the textile sector (bi), having a braided armor , by the construction of the weft threads.

In total, as shown in FIGS. 4 and 5, for each fabric 31 or 32, the bands a to e of the fabric correspond to the zones A to E defined on the jig of the rod 1. And the properties / characteristics, conferred by the choices of textile construction operated for these different Textile or woven sectors are those retained or sought for the different zones defined on the jig of the rod 1.

 In summary, a technical fabric according to the state of the art, including according to WO 2013/103 363, can be represented or defined graphically by the single drawing or diagram of its armor, while the graphic representation or definition of a technical fabric according to the present invention comprises a multiplicity of separate and different drawings or diagrams, which are those of the elementary constructions of the different textile sectors respectively.

 In practice, as shown in Figure 6, a technical fabric 3 will be constructed and woven in a single operation so as to repeat a pattern 61 or 62, both in the weft direction 5 and / or in the direction of the chain 6, having the pattern or sectorized textile pattern according to Figure 4 (Example 1) or Figure 5 (Example 2).

 More exactly, a piece of the obtained technical fabric, shown schematically according to FIG. 6, will comprise a first pattern 4 corresponding to a left foot, directed towards a first rim edge of the piece, and a second pattern 4, obtained by turning and rotating at 180 ° of the first pattern 4 around an axis of symmetry parallel to the frame, corresponding to the right foot, but directed to the other raster border of the same piece.

 It is thus possible to obtain subsequently by the cuts specified hereinafter in the same piece of technical fabric according to the invention, a pair of rods, each corresponding to one and the same pair of shoes.

 Referring to a single pattern 61 or 62 according to Figure 4 or 5, included in a piece or width of a multisector technical fabric according to the invention, and having cutting means (eg cut-out -pièce), it can then cut flat along the closed cutting line 50 in the fabric, and obtain directly, the cut piece 51, flexible, multifunctional or shoe 1 rod, required for the manufacture of the latter.

Of course, these cutting means must be located, arranged, or positioned relative to the drawing of the pattern 61 or 62, on the piece of fabric, so that the areas previously defined by reference Figures 2 and 3 fit individually and exactly in the different sectors corresponding to the pattern according to Figure 4 or 5.

 With these cutting means thus positioned and identified with respect to the piece of fabric, is cut and obtained directly the rod or flexible piece 1, monobloc or monolithic, but multifunctional, required to build or produce the sport shoe 7concernée.

Claims

claims 1. Technical fabric (3, 31, 32) obtained or obtainable in a single weaving operation, characterized in that the fabric, of monolithic or heterogeneous construction or structure, comprises a multiplicity of discrete textile sectors (a at e1; 32 to β2) each constituting an individualized element of fabric, the ordered construction of which differs from one textile sector to another in the direction of the warp (6) and / or that of the weft (5), by at least one of the following parameters:  the armor and / or the density of the warp threads and / or the assembled weft threads,  the nature, in particular chemical nature, of said wires, and / or their own construction,  - The treatment of said son before and / or after assembly, so that the properties or technical or practical characteristics of the different textile sectors are respectively different, for example in the direction of the warp and / or that of the weft.  2. Technical fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that it is constructed so that one or more patterns (61, 62), identical or different, each comprising in accordance with claim 1 a multiplicity of different textile sectors, are repeated on the fabric along the axis of the chain (6), and / or the axis of the frame (5).  3. Technical fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that warp threads (6) and / or weft threads (5) each comprise at least one mechanically resistant material, for example a para-amide, and / or a material resistant to abrasion, for example a polyamide, and are optionally coated, for example with a polyurethane, optionally filled with ceramic.  4. Technical fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, at least one textile sector, comprising hot melt son, warp and / or weft, adapted to a heat treatment posterior so as to bind the son to each other, for example to form and / or locally stiffen the fabric. 5. Technical fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the warp son (6) and / or the weft son (5) individually have a clean construction, simple or complex. 6. Use of a pattern (61, 62) in a technical fabric, or a technical fabric (3) identical to that defined by any one of claims 1 to 5, as a semi-finished product, for directly obtaining, by flat-cutting in the fabric, at least one multifunctional flexible part (1), comprising a multiplicity of functional zones (Ai to Ei; A ₂ to E ₂ ) having different functions, properties / characteristics respectively of a zone to another.  7. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that it has cutting means, and is positioned and referenced with respect to the drawing of different textile sectors on the technical fabric, so that the functional areas are individually inscribed and respectively in the different textile sectors of the fabric.  8. Multifunctional flexible piece (1), obtainable by a use according to claim 6 or 7, of a pattern (61, 62) in a technical fabric, or a technical fabric (3). ) identical to that defined by any one of claims 1 to 5.  9. A method of manufacturing an article (7), or finished product, comprising a flexible part (1) according to claim 8, which confers properties / technical or practical characteristics differing from one discrete zone to another of said part. , and therefore of said article, characterized in that:  (a) leaving or having said flexible piece (1), (b) forming or forming said flexible piece, (c) where appropriate, assembling the shaped flexible member with one or more other components (8) of said article, to obtain an article or finished product (7).  10. Article (7) or product obtainable by a process according to claim 9.  1 1. An article of footwear (7) according to claim 10, in particular a sports shoe, for example a shoe for practicing a racket sport, characterized in that the flexible piece (1) according to claim 8 directly constitutes the upper part of the shoe. footwear article. 12. Footwear (7), in particular a shoe for the practice of a sport, for example a racket sport, characterized in that the upper (1) of the footwear is constituted by or comprises a technical fabric , of construction or monolithic structure, but heterogeneous, because having a multiplicity of discrete textile sectors, each constituting an individualized fabric element, the ordered construction of which differs from one textile sector to another in the warp and / or weft direction by at least one following parameters:  the armor and / or the density of the warp threads and / or the assembled weft threads,  the nature, in particular chemical nature, of said wires, and / or their own construction,  the treatment of said yarns before and / or after manufacture of the article of footwear (7), so that the properties, or technical or practical characteristics of the rod (1) differ from one discrete zone to another of the latter.