EP1360354B1 - Three-dimensional double-face fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a three-dimensional double-face fabric consisting of two outer layers (A, B), spaced apart and linked together by binder yarns (F), which extend substantially perpendicular to the surfaces opposite the two layers (A, B). The invention is characterised in that in some of the zones of the fabric, the binder yarns are of at least two different types, having different contraction and shrinking characteristics, said two types of binder yarns working complementarily so that they form zones with different thickness providing the fabric with a three-dimensional effect.

Description

Technical area

The present invention relates to a new type of double-sided, three-dimensional fabric consisting essentially of two outer layers formed by a fabric or a knit, spaced from one another and interconnected by woven threads, woven or knitted with the aforementioned plies, which extend substantially perpendicular to the surfaces facing the two plies and which are connected to the latter without appearing on the outer faces.

Previous techniques

Such double-sided fabrics are well known in the field of the textile industry and were originally used to make velvet fabrics by cutting bonding yarns in the middle part of the fabric or three-dimensional knit thus produced.

It has also been proposed, for decades, to use such three-dimensional structures, which therefore have the characteristic of being very thick compared to fabrics or flat knits for making articles having very good thermal insulation characteristics. , comfort, compressibility and back after compression ..., both sides may be made of similar son or son having different characteristics.

As an indication, it has for example been proposed to use such double-faced fabrics in the field of clothing for thermal insulation purposes to improve comfort. In such a case, it is possible to produce articles whose one face is based on hydrophilic son and the other consists of hydrophobic fibers.

These three-dimensional materials are also widely used to form the textile reinforcements of composite materials. Document DE 4140826A describes, for example, a double-faced fabric having a relief obtained by varying the binding gap on a specific loom.

In general, it can be said that all these three-dimensional double-face fabrics have as a base structure of the type used to make double piece velvet whose binding son are not cut contrary to the technology of velvet.

In all of the proposals made so far, as regards woven and three-dimensional woven articles, the latter can also be classified in two families, namely those obtained by the knit stitch technique and those obtained on circular or rectilinear looms with meshes picked double needle, the products obtained generally have a constant and uniform thickness, except in special cases where specific machines are used as in DE 41 40 826 A.

Presentation of the invention

Now it has been found, and this is the object of the present invention, a new type of three-dimensional textile structure, woven or knitted, obtained by the standard techniques of making double-pile velvet, and which is used as such. without cutting the binding threads between the two external textile structures which, unlike the previous articles, have areas of different thickness communicating to the article a relief effect. According to the invention, in certain areas of the fabric, the binding yarns are of at least two different types, having different contraction or shrinkage capacities, these two types of binding yarn working in a complementary manner so that they form zones of different thicknesses imparting to the fabric a relief effect.

By contraction or shrinkage capabilities, it is meant that the yarns have an elasticity that makes their length decrease when they are subjected to less stress, or that they are likely to shrink when subjected to treatment. thermal for example. These retraction or contraction capacities can be expressed either during the operations of making the fabric itself, or even during a subsequent treatment.

• du choix spécifique du matériel de tissage ou tricotage utilisé pour la réalisation de la structure ;
• de la sélection de fils entrant dans la constitution des tissus ou tricots de surface et des fils de liaison ;
• dans le choix des armures utilisées pour réaliser les faces externes ainsi que les zones de liaison.

Such a possibility of obtaining three-dimensional structures presenting relief effects results from:

• the specific choice of weaving or knitting material used for the realization of the structure;
• the selection of yarns used in the constitution of fabrics or knits of surface and son of connection;
• in the choice of armor used to make the external faces as well as the connection areas.

With regard to the type of material, weaving machines will be used for making double fabrics, that is to say having at least two bottom chains for producing the outer woven faces, and two chains. binding yarns controlled by Jacquard mechanics.

As regards the knitting, it will be preferable to use knitting machines with gathered stitches, double needle bed, and more particularly circular looms allowing a Jacquard selection on one of the needle beds.

It is also conceivable to use jersey knitting machines, and more particularly a Rachel loom with two needles, comprising at least four guide bars, the two outer bars (front and rear) for making the knits. surface, the two intermediate bars for making the connecting son from different materials, the threading of these bars being made available, so that in some areas, different son can work in a complementary manner.

Regarding the selection of yarns forming part of the article according to the invention, it will be used, for background yarns intended to form the layers (woven or knitted) of surface, of the same nature or of a different nature, and as regards the binding yarns, at least two types of yarns having different contraction or shrinkage capacities.

With regard to the weaves of work, both in the woven articles and those obtained on a knitting machine with discarded or gathered meshes, the relief effect is obtained by realizing certain zones of the structure by making the two types work together in a complementary manner. binding threads of different nature.

In the remainder of the description, the invention will be more particularly described for the production of a three-dimensional knitted textile structure, carried out on loom meshes picked double needle, of which at least one is equipped with a system of selection of needles.

• ◆ les couches extérieures du tricot tridimensionnel sont constituées de deux tricots Jersey (uni ou Jacquard) réalisés à partir de fils identiques ou différents et ;
• ◆ ces deux couches externes sont liées entre elles par des rangées de fils de liaison travaillant sur les deux fontures, en formant des mailles ou étant simplement cueillies par les aiguilles et ;
• ◆ certaines rangées de tricot comportent la combinaison de deux types de fils de liaison possédant des caractéristiques de rétraction ou retrait différentes l'un de l'autre, et qui travaillent dans cette rangée selon une sélection complémentaire d'aiguilles.

In such an embodiment:

• The outer layers of the three-dimensional knit consist of two Jersey knits (uni or Jacquard) made from identical or different yarns;
• ◆ these two outer layers are interconnected by rows of connecting threads working on the two needle beds, forming meshes or simply picked by the needles and;
• ◆ certain rows of knits comprise the combination of two types of binding son having retraction or withdrawal characteristics different from one another, and working in this row according to a complementary selection of needles.

Two combinations of different types of son can be used to produce a product according to the invention.

In the first combination, the relief effect is obtained directly during knitting, without further processing, the binding yarn making it possible to obtain the shrinkage being constituted by an elastic thread, knitted under tension, the second binding yarn being as to it consists of a conventional thread, synthetic or natural.

In such a case, for example, it is possible, for example, to use, as extensible yarn, a yarn comprising an elastane core covered by a polyester or polyamide yarn, and as unstretchable yarn a polyester or polyamide monofilament or a polyester or polyamide multifilament. Thus, the shrinkage is obtained directly at the fall of the loom by retraction of the gimped yarn under tension.

According to the second embodiment, the relief is obtained by using wires having differential shrinkage characteristics under the action of a heat treatment.

In such a case, it is possible, for example, to use a non-fixed false twisted textured polyester or polyamide yarn combination and a fixed false twisted textured polyester or polyamide yarn.

It is also possible to use, especially when it is desired to obtain an article having a very good resistance to crushing, a polyester yarn or non-fixed false twist textured polyamide (foam yarn) and as another type of bonding yarn, monofilament polyester or polyamide yarn.

It is also possible to use smooth wires having a high shrinkage power, of the order of 30% or more.

In the remainder of the description, the invention will be described for the production of a three-dimensional structure constituted by a two-layer knit made on a knitting machine with double needle stitches, of which at least one needle bed is equipped with a selection system. needles.

It will also be described by implementing for the production of such a knitting a circular knitting machine, multichaut, having needles both at the tray and the cylinder, needles positioned according to a disposition side by side, the selection of needles being made by cylinder with a Jacquard or mechanical system.

It is obvious that this is not limiting and that similar articles could be made on a rectilinear double needle also equipped with a needle selection system.

The invention and the advantages it brings will, however, be better understood thanks to the exemplary embodiments given below by way of indication but not limitation.

Brief description of the drawings

The attached diagrams illustrate the manner in which the product according to the invention is produced.

• la figure 1 illustre la structure générale d'une structure tridimensionnelle double face conforme à l'état de la technique, la figure 2 illustrant la structure générale d'un tricot double face de l'art antérieur.
• les figures 3a, 3b, 3c illustrent le cycle de base de réalisation d'une structure tricotée tridimensionnelle conforme à l'invention présentant, après réalisation, des effets de relief obtenus par variation de l'épaisseur du tricot formé, la figure 3 illustrant schématiquement, en perspective, un tricot réalisé en intégralité sur la base de l'armure illustrée aux figures 3a, 3b, 3c ;
• les figures 4a à 4f illustrent le cycle de tricotage d'une structure tridimensionnelle conforme à l'invention, les diagrammes situés à gauche représentant le positionnement des faces externes et des fils de liaison pendant l'opération de tricotage, et les diagrammes situés à droite illustrant la structure finale après rétraction ou retrait de l'un des deux fils de liage, et permettant d'obtenir des effets de relief et de creux formés d'une alternance de zones tricotées ayant la forme de petits carrés juxtaposés, tels qu'illustrés à la figure 5 ;
• la figure 6 illustre le cycle de base d'un tricot en relief réalisé conformément à l'invention dont l'une des faces présente également un effet Jacquard;
• la figure 7 est une vue schématique simplifiée d'un tricot obtenu conformément au quatrième exemple de réalisation ci après ;
• la figure 8 représente le schéma d'armure utilisé pour réaliser le tricot de la figure 7 ;
• la figure 9 représente le schéma de renfilage utilisé pour réaliser le tricot de la figure 7 ;
• la figure 10 est une vue schématique simplifiée d'un tricot obtenu conformément au cinquième exemple de réalisation ;
• la figure 11 représente le schéma d'armure utilisé pour réaliser le tricot de la figure 10;
• la figure 12 représente le schéma de renfilage utilisé pour réaliser le tricot de la figure 10 ;
• la figure 13 est un tableau illustrant le schéma d'armure permettant d'obtenir par tissage l'étoffe décrite dans le sixième exemple de réalisation;
• les figures 14 et 15 sont des vues en coupe dans le sens des fils de chaîne du tissu réalisé conformément au schéma d'armure de la figure 13, et montrées respectivement avant et après traitement thermique.

In these schemes;

• Figure 1 illustrates the general structure of a three-dimensional double-sided structure according to the state of the art, Figure 2 illustrating the general structure of a double-sided knit of the prior art.
• FIGS. 3a, 3b, 3c illustrate the basic cycle of production of a three-dimensional knitted structure according to the invention having, after production, relief effects obtained by varying the thickness of the knit formed, Figure 3 schematically illustrating, in perspective, a knit made in full on the basis of the armor illustrated in Figures 3a, 3b, 3c;
• FIGS. 4a to 4f illustrate the knitting cycle of a three-dimensional structure according to the invention, the diagrams on the left representing the positioning of the outer faces and the connecting threads during the knitting operation, and the diagrams on the right. illustrating the final structure after retraction or withdrawal of one of the two binding yarns, and making it possible to obtain relief and hollow effects formed from an alternation of knitted zones having the shape of small juxtaposed squares, as illustrated in Figure 5;
• FIG. 6 illustrates the basic cycle of a raised knit made in accordance with the invention, one of whose faces also has a Jacquard effect;
• Figure 7 is a simplified schematic view of a knit obtained according to the fourth embodiment below;
• Figure 8 shows the pattern of weave used to make the knit of Figure 7;
• Figure 9 shows the drawing pattern used to make the knit of Figure 7;
• Figure 10 is a simplified schematic view of a knit obtained according to the fifth embodiment;
• Figure 11 shows the pattern of weave used to make the knit of Figure 10;
• Figure 12 shows the drawing pattern used to make the knit of Figure 10;
• Fig. 13 is a table illustrating the weave pattern for weaving the fabric described in the sixth embodiment;
• Figures 14 and 15 are sectional views in the warp direction of the fabric made in accordance with the weave pattern of Figure 13, and respectively shown before and after heat treatment.

Way of realizing the invention

FIG. 1 illustrates, as previously mentioned, the general structure of a three-dimensional two-layer textile produced by the double-piece velvet technique, which therefore consists of two external faces (A, B), constituted by a fabric or a knit, spaced apart one of the other and interconnected by binding yarns woven or knitted with said faces (A).

FIG. 2 illustrates the general structure of a double-sided knit made on a double needle loom, and which therefore comprises a face (A) made on the plate and forming a Jersey, the face (B) made from a wire identical or different to that constituting the face (A) also forming a Jersey or cylinder, these two faces being interconnected by a so-called binding yarn working in a weave on a side and a, said tie yarn being masked by the wires forming the surface Jerseys.

Such a double fabric may for example be made in accordance with the teachings of FR-A-2 344 659, the content of which is incorporated in the present application as necessary.

According to the invention, a double, three-dimensional knit is produced in a manner comparable to the teachings of this document, but at least certain zones of which form patterns obtained by a reduction in the thickness communicated by the length of the flanges of the yarns. binding between the two knitted outer faces.

To do this, in the areas where it is desired to achieve such effects, one proceeds as illustrated by Figures 3a to 3c.

In these areas, basic armor is used on three successive falls.

We will therefore realize at the first fall (Figure 3a), a Jersey on the board, knitted simultaneously with a first binding thread (F1) which on the one hand, will form Jersey at the plateau, and, on the other hand, will work on a selection of needles at the cylinder, charging or girging with said needles. In the example given, the first binding yarn (F1) loads on an alternation of five needles to the cylinder.

At the next fall (Figure 3b), we will also make a Jersey to the plate associated with a second binding thread (F2) which, meanwhile, will also form Jersey and load or mesh on the five needles that have not worked at the previous fall.

Finally, at the third fall (Figure 3c), a Jersey is made at the cylinder.

By proceeding in such a way, we obtain a three-dimensional knit whose face (A) (side plate) is twice as dense as the face (B) cylinder side.

By using binding yarns (F1) and (F2) having heat shrinkage characteristics different from each other, if the entire length of the knit is performed by repeating the weave as illustrated in FIGS. 3a at 3c, after treatment and finishing, an article is obtained as shown diagrammatically in FIG. 3, which shows alternating parallel strips of different thickness.

It is also possible, by playing on the knitting cycle, for example by performing, as is apparent from Figure 4, three successive cycles made according to Figure 2 followed by three cycles in which the positioning of the binding son (F1, F2) are reversed, to obtain, after heat shrinkage treatment, offset zones of different thickness leading to obtaining a checkerboard effect consisting of recessed areas relative to the adjacent areas.

Moreover, it is possible to obtain localized effects by realizing the tying zones by means of two complementary threads only for certain rows of knits separated from each other by zones in which the binding is obtained, in each row, by means of one and the same type of wire.

Other types of three-dimensional knit according to the invention can be made in a different manner, as is apparent in particular from FIG. 6.

In such an embodiment, use is made of a circular loom double needle whose cylinder allows for a selection of Jacquard type.

Such a loom is equipped so that, at each drop, three yarns are dispensed simultaneously to the needles of the tray and the cylinder, namely the yarn intended to form the jersey on the tray, the one intended to form the jersey with the cylinder and this according to a Jacquard selection, and the binding yarn connecting the two knitted faces, said Jersey binding yarn to the tray and working in a Jacquard selection to the cylinder.

The next fall is made in a similar way by forming Jersey on the plateau, Jersey on the cylinder on the needles not working at the fall previous, and binding on the one hand, on all the needles of the plate and secondly, on the needles forming Jersey cylinder.

In such a case, there is obtained a knit which has a flat face and which, at the cylinder, has rows of Jersey Jacquard.

As before, by playing on the possibilities of differential shrinkage between the two binding threads, it is possible to obtain zones of lesser thickness, of which areas forming relief at the level of the binding threads having the highest rate of shrinkage or shrinkage. .

It should be noted that in this embodiment, at the jersey produced at the cylinder, one is in the presence of a Jacquard structure, the thread working on a selection of needles and then floating on a number of needles on which the Jacquard complement is realized at the next fall.

Example 1

Knits according to the invention are made on a circular knitting machine, double needle bed, comprising an electronic selection system at the level of the roller needles.

• diamètre : 30 pouces (76,2 cm)
• jauge : 18 (18 aiguilles dans 25,4 mm)
• nombre de chutes : 36
• nombre total d'aiguilles au plateau et au cylindre : 3264
• écartement (E) entre la périphérie du plateau et le bord supérieur du cylindre : 8 mm

Such a craft has the following characteristics

• diameter: 30 inches (76.2 cm)
• gauge: 18 (18 needles in 25.4 mm)
• number of falls: 36
• total number of needles on platter and cylinder: 3264
• distance (E) between the periphery of the plate and the upper edge of the cylinder: 8 mm

• Jersey plateau : fil polyester texturé FTF 167 dtex
• Jersey cylindre : fil polyester texturé FTF 220 dtex
• fils de liage F1: fil polyester texturé FTF vaporisé 167 dtex
• fils de liage F2 utilisé dans les zones où l'on souhaite obtenir un effet de contraction : fil polyester texturé FT, non fixé, 165 dtex.

To make the knit according to the invention, the following threads are used:

• Jersey top: FTF 167 dtex textured polyester yarn
• Jersey cylinder: textured polyester thread FTF 220 dtex
• binding yarn F1: textured polyester thread FTF vaporized 167 dtex
• binding yarn F2 used in areas where it is desired to obtain a contraction effect: FT textured polyester yarn, unfixed, 165 dtex.

This knit is made entirely in accordance with the armor as illustrated in FIG.

The length of yarn cut per turn is 535 cm for the yarns forming the Jersey on the plate and 608 cm for the Jersey on the cylinder. On the other hand, for the binding yarns, these being knitted in Jacquard, the flow rate is not measured.

The feeding of the yarns for the shelf and cylinder jersey is carried out through positive suppliers.

For binding yarns, given that they work in Jacquard weave, feeding is done through Jacquard suppliers (IRO type).

At the fall of the craft, a knit is obtained whose outer faces consist of two Jersey structures interconnected by the binding yarns.

After completion, the off-white fabric is dyed at 130 ° C.

Under the action of heat, there is a retraction of tying son (F2) textured polyester base FT resulting in a decrease in the thickness of the fabric in the areas where these son tying.

The finished fabric weighs 380 g / m ² , and has a width of 160 cm.

It has parallel dimensions whose thickness varies between 4 mm in areas with binding yarn F1, and 2 mm in areas with binding yarn F2.

Example 2

Example 1 is repeated except that the knitting is carried out according to the armor illustrated in FIG. 4, that is to say that an alternation of three knitting cycles is carried out by reversing the selection of the knits. needles on which the binding of the son with differential withdrawals is made.

After heat treatment, a knit having relief effects in the form of small squares is obtained, the thickness of which varies between 4 mm for the thickest zones and 1 mm for the hollow zones.

Example 3

On a circular knitting machine, also equipped with a Jacquard cylinder selection, an article according to the invention is produced from the same types of threads as in the preceding examples, except at the cylinder level. A Jacquard Jersey is made for the face of appearance. This knit is made in a Jacquard weave as illustrated in FIG.

Two binding yarns having different characteristics are used, said binding yarns being knitted in Jersey and in the tray and on the selection of the needles of the cylinder.

The distribution of the thread to the needles at each fall, is achieved by means of three throwers or a single caster with three ducts for guiding the son. Culling and slaughter are adjusted to obtain a distribution of the threads according to the needles of the cylinder and the plateau concerned.

Example 4

Other knitting technologies, in particular knit knit fabrics, make it possible to obtain fabrics in accordance with the invention. Thus, a knit having the appearance illustrated schematically in Figure 7 can be obtained using a Rachel knitting machine. An example of a weave scheme used is shown schematically in FIG. 8, using six layers of different wires.

Thus, in detail, there is shown below a table in which, for each of the sheet of son used Blet B6, it has been identified:.
in a first column, the armor scheme, conventionally corresponding to the movement of the wires relative to the guide bars, indicating the unitary sequence, which must optionally be reproduced successively;
in a second column, the type of wire used; and
in a third column, the rate of wire in greenhouses per rack Wire number Armor representation Type of wire used Debit B1 0111/2111 // x6 Flat polyester 50 dtex / 20 filaments B2 121111011 // x6 Flat polyester 1700 50 dtex / 20 filaments B3 2323/3232/0101/1010 // x3 Flat polyester 5600 monofilament 33 dtx B4 0101/1010/232313232 // x3 Polyester faux twist texture 76dtex / 24 filaments 4900 B5 1112/1110 // x6 Flat polyester 50 dtex / 20 filaments B6 1101/1121 // x6 Flat polyester 1600 50 dtex / 20 filaments

For this particular example, the used Rachel machine operates at a speed of 900 strokes / min, corresponding to a production of 20 m / h. The distance between needles is 2.5 mm and the knit obtained has twenty stitches per centimeter and a weight of 280 g / m ² .

Example 5

Another example of a weave pattern used on the same Rachel knitting machine is shown schematically in FIG. 11, using six plies of different yarns.

The table below is similar to the table given in Example 5. Wire number Armor representation Type of wire used Debit B1 2222/0000 // x6 Flat polyester 76 dtex / 24 filaments 2000 mm B2 011111000 // x6 flat polyester 76 dtex / 24 filaments 1700 mm B3 1201/2110 // x6 Flat polyester 5500 mm monofilament 33 dtx B4 1201/2110 // x6 False twist textured polyester 76dtex / 24 filaments 4800 mm B5 0001/1110 // x6 flat polyester 76 dtex / 24 filaments 1700 mm B6 002212200 // x6 Flat polyester 76 dtex / 24 filaments 2000 mm

In the illustrated example, the used trade operates in the same way as for example 5.

Example 6

As already mentioned, the invention can also be implemented according to a warp and weft weaving technology. Such an example is illustrated in FIGS. 13 to 15.

Thus, Figure 13 illustrates the pattern of weave used for a particular example, using six different warp yarns, on a double-ply weave without saber slitting. Such a loom has a chain 96 threads per centimeter on the two plies. The resulting fabric has 26 weft yarns per centimeter.

In the illustrated example, the warp yarns bearing Nos. 1, 2, 4 and 5 are fixed false twist polyester yarns having two ends of 167 dtex and 48 filaments. The two binding threads are different threads. The first binding yarn, namely warp # 3, is a monofilament smooth polyester yarn of 115 dtex. The second warp yarn, namely warp yarn # 6, is a 167 dtex and 48 filament false-twist polyester yarn. The weft threads used are identical to the warp threads 1, 2, 4 and 5.

After weaving, there is obtained, as illustrated in FIG. 14, a fabric having two faces connected by the two different binding warp threads, namely the warp thread No. 3 and the warp thread No. 6.

After heat treatment, and as shown in FIG. 15, with the # 6 warp yarn having retracted more significantly than the warp # 3, the fabric has a zone of lesser thickness at the level where the warp yarn Channel No. 6 played the role of binding thread.

In the rest of the fabric, the warp thread No. 6 is concealed inside the fabric so as not to form floating strands on the face of the fabric. It will therefore be preferable to use the face shown on the right in FIG. 15 as the outer face of the fabric.

The articles produced according to the process according to the invention can be used in many applications where it is desired to obtain comfort characteristics, insulation, compressive strength, while having decorations of relief and hollow impossible to obtain with the previous techniques.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the embodiments described above, but it covers all variants made in the same spirit.

Claims (11)

1. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric consisting of two outer layers (A, B) spaced from one another and connected together by binding threads (F), which extend substantially perpendicular to the opposing surfaces of the two layers (A, B), characterized in that in certain areas in the fabric, the binding threads are of at least two different types, having different contraction or retraction capacities, these two types of binding threads working complementarily so as to form areas of different thicknesses thereby imparting a relief effect to the fabric.
2. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric according to Claim 1, characterized in that it consists of a face-to-face velvet whereof the binding threads are uncut, the outer layers consisting of two woven or knitted fabrics of identical or different types, connected together by binding threads (F) consisting in certain areas of the fabric of at least two types of yarns (F1, F2) that have different contraction or retraction capacities, the relief effect being obtained by producing these areas of the structure by making the two types of binding threads work complementarily.
3. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric according to either of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it is woven.
4. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric according to either of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it consists of a warp knit produced specifically on a double-bed Raschel knitting machine.
5. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric according to either of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it consists of a weft knit.
6. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric according to Claim 5, characterized in that the knitted fabric is produced on a double-bed weft knitting machine, at least one of the said needle beds being equipped with a needle selection system, and in which:

   ◆ the outer layers consist of two Jersey knits (plain or Jacquard) produced using identical or different yarns;

   ◆ the said two outer layers are connected together with rows of binding threads working on the two needle beds, forming stitches or simply being weft-knitted by the needles and;

   ◆ some knitted rows include the combination of two types of binding threads (F1, F2) having different shrinkage or retraction properties to one another, and which work in this row according to a complementary selection of needles.
7. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric according to either of Claims 5 and 6, characterized in that the relief effect is obtained directly during the knitting process, without additional treatment, the binding thread allowing retraction to occur being an elastic yarn, knitted under tension, the second binding thread being a conventional, synthetic or natural yarn.
8. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric according to Claim 7, characterized in that the elastic yarn is a yarn comprising an elastothane core wrapped with a polyester or polyamide yarn, and the non-extensible yarn is a polyester or polyamide monofilament or a polyester or polyamide multifilament yarn, where retraction is obtained directly when the fabric leaves the knitting machine by the retraction of the wrapped yarn knitted under tension.
9. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that relief is obtained by using yarns with differential retraction properties under the action of heat treatment.
10. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric according to Claim 9, characterized in that it uses a combination of polyester or polyamide yarns textured by unset false twisting and polyester or polyamide yarns textured by set false twisting.
11. Three-dimensional double-faced fabric according to Claim 9, characterized in that it uses a combination of a polyester or polyamide yarn textured by unset false twisting and a second binding thread consisting of a polyester or polyamide monofilament yarn.

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