EP1360354A1

EP1360354A1 - Three-dimensional double-face fabric

Info

Publication number: EP1360354A1
Application number: EP02703687A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jean-Michel Gault
Original assignee: Textiles et Plastiques Chomarat SA
Current assignee: Textiles et Plastiques Chomarat SA
Priority date: 2001-02-14
Filing date: 2002-02-11
Publication date: 2003-11-12
Anticipated expiration: 2022-02-11
Also published as: ATE360112T1; ES2283522T3; FR2820763A1; DE60219599T2; FR2820763B1; WO2002064870A1; DE60219599D1; EP1360354B1

Abstract

The invention concerns a three-dimensional double-face fabric consisting of two outer layers (A, B), spaced apart and linked together by binder yarns (F), which extend substantially perpendicular to the surfaces opposite the two layers (A, B). The invention is characterised in that in some of the zones of the fabric, the binder yarns are of at least two different types, having different contraction and shrinking characteristics, said two types of binder yarns working complementarily so that they form zones with different thickness providing the fabric with a three-dimensional effect.

Description

DOUBLE-SIDED THREE-DIMENSIONAL FABRIC.

Technical area

The present invention relates to a new type of double-sided, three-dimensional fabric, consisting essentially of two external plies formed by a fabric or a knitted fabric, spaced from one another and linked together by woven threads. or knitted with the aforementioned plies, which extend substantially perpendicular to the facing surfaces of the two plies and which are linked to the latter without appearing on the outer faces,

Previous techniques

Such double-sided fabrics are well known in the textile industry and were originally used to make velvet fabrics by cutting the connecting threads in the middle part of the fabric or three-dimensional knitted fabric thus produced.

It has also been proposed, for decades, to use such three-dimensional structures, which therefore have the characteristic of being very thick compared to flat fabrics or knits to produce articles having very good thermal insulation characteristics. , comfort, compressibility and return after compression ..., the two faces of which can either be made up of similar threads or of threads having different characteristics.

As an indication, it has for example been proposed to use such double-sided fabrics in the clothing sector for the purpose of thermal insulation to improve comfort. In such a case, it is possible to produce articles, one of the faces of which is based on hydrophilic threads and the other of which consists of hydrophobic fibers.

These three-dimensional materials are also widely used to constitute the textile reinforcements of composite materials.

In general, we can say that all of these three-dimensional double-sided fabrics have as their base a structure of the type used to make double-piece velvets, the connecting threads of which are not cut unlike the velvet technology. In all of the proposals made to date, both with regard to three-dimensional woven articles and those which are knitted, the latter can also be classified into two families, namely those obtained by the technique of discarded mesh and those obtained on circular or rectilinear looms with double picked needle beds, the products obtained have a constant and uniform thickness.

Statement of the invention

Now we have found, and this is what is the subject of the present invention, a new type of three-dimensional textile structure, woven or knitted, obtained by the techniques of making two-piece velvet, and which is used as without cutting of the binding threads between the two external textile structures which, unlike the previous articles, have zones of different thickness communicating to the article a relief effect. According to the invention, in certain areas of the fabric, the binding threads are of at least two different types, having different contraction or retraction capacities, these two types of binding threads working in a complementary manner so that 'they form zones of different thicknesses giving the fabric a relief effect.

By capacities of contraction ^' or retraction, one understands that the threads have an elasticity which makes that their length decreases when they are subjected to a lesser tension, or even that they are likely to shrink when they are subjected to a heat treatment for example. These retraction or contraction capacities can be expressed either during the operations for producing the fabric itself, or even during subsequent processing.

Such a possibility of obtaining three-dimensional structures having relief effects, results. :

• the specific choice of weaving or knitting material used to make the structure;

• the selection of threads used in the construction of surface fabrics or knits and connecting threads;

• in the choice of armor used to make the external faces as well as the connection zones. Regarding the type of material, we will use, with regard to weaving, looms making double fabrics, that is to say comprising at least two bottom chains for the production of external woven faces, and two chains tying threads controlled by a Jacquard machine.

As far as knitting is concerned, use will be made of knitting machines with picked stitches, double needle bed, and more particularly circular looms allowing Jacquard selection on one of the needle beds.

It is also conceivable to use knitting machines with thrown stitches, and more particularly a Rachel loom with two needle beds, comprising at least four guide bars, the two outer bars (front and rear) making it possible to knit. surface, the two intermediate bars making it possible to produce the connecting wires from different materials, the threading of these bars being made available, so that in certain areas, different wires can work in a complementary manner.

As regards the selection of threads forming part of the article according to the invention, use will be made, for background threads intended to form the surface layers (woven or knitted), of the same or different nature, and, with regard to the binding yarns, at least two types of yarns having different contraction or retraction capacities.

Concerning the working armor, as well in the woven articles as on those obtained on a knitting loom with discarded or picked stitches, the relief effect is obtained by carrying out certain zones of the structure by making work in a complementary way the two types of different types of tying threads.

In the following description, the invention will be more particularly described for the production of a knitted three-dimensional textile structure, produced on double needle stitch picking looms, at least one of which is equipped with a system for selecting the needles. In such an embodiment: the outer layers of three-dimensional knitting consist of two Jersey knits (plain or Jacquard) made from identical or different threads and; 4 these two outer layers are linked together by rows of connecting threads working on the two needle beds, forming stitches or being simply picked up by the needles and; * certain rows of knitting comprise the combination of two types of connecting threads having different retraction or withdrawal characteristics from one another, and which work in this row according to a complementary selection of needles.

Two combinations of threads of different nature can be used to make a product according to the invention.

In the first combination, the relief effect is obtained directly during knitting, without additional treatment, the binding wire allowing the shrinkage to be obtained being constituted by an elastic thread, knitted under tension, the second binding thread being made up of a conventional, synthetic or natural thread.

In such a case, by way of indication, it is possible, for example, to use as extensible yarn a yarn comprising an elastane core covered by a polyester or polyamide yarn, and as non-extensible yarn a polyester or polyamide monofilament or a polyester or polyamide multifilament. Thus, the withdrawal is obtained directly at the fall of the loom by the retraction of the covered knitted yarn under tension.

According to the second embodiment, the relief is obtained by using wires having differential shrinkage characteristics under the action of a heat treatment.

In such a case, it is possible, for example, to use a combination of non-fixed polyester twist or polyamide texture by false twist and fixed polyester twist or polyamide yarn by texture.

It is also possible to use, in particular when it is desired to obtain an article having a very good resistance to crushing, a polyester thread or polyamide texture by false twist not fixed (foam thread) and as another type of connecting thread, a polyester thread or monofilament polyamide.

It is also possible to use smooth wires having high shrinkage power, of the order of 30% or more.

In the following description, the invention will be described for the production of a three-dimensional structure consisting of a two-layer knitting produced on a knitting machine with double stitched stitch stitch, at least one of which is equipped with a selection system. needles.

It will also be described by implementing, for the production of such a knitting, a multi-drop circular knitting loom, comprising needles both on the plate and in the cylinder, needles positioned according to an arrangement dimensioned one by one, the selection of needles being carried out with the cylinder by a Jacquard or mechanical system.

It is obvious that this is not limiting and that similar articles could be produced on a rectilinear double needle bed also equipped with a needle selection system.

The invention and the advantages which it brings will however be better understood thanks to the exemplary embodiments given below for information but not limitation.

Brief description of the drawings

The attached diagrams illustrate the manner in which the product according to the invention is produced.

In these diagrams:

- Figure 1 illustrates the general structure of a three-dimensional double-sided structure according to the prior art, Figure 2 illustrating the general structure of a double-sided knitted fabric of the prior art.

FIGS. 3a, 3b, 3c illustrate the basic cycle for producing a three-dimensional knitted structure according to the invention having, after production, relief effects obtained by varying the thickness of the knitted fabric formed, FIG. 3 schematically illustrating, in perspective, a knitted fabric produced entirely on the basis of the weave illustrated in FIGS. 3a, 3b, 3c;

FIGS. 4a to 4f illustrate the knitting cycle of a three-dimensional structure in accordance with the invention, the diagrams located on the left representing the positioning of the external faces and the connecting threads during the knitting operation, and the diagrams located at straight line illustrating the final structure after retraction or withdrawal of one of the two binding threads, and making it possible to obtain relief and hollow effects formed by alternating knitted zones in the form of small juxtaposed squares, such as illustrated in Figure 5; - Figure 6 illustrates the basic cycle of a relief knitting produced in accordance with the invention, one of the faces of which also has a Jacquard effect;

- Figure 7 is a simplified schematic view of a knitted fabric obtained in accordance with the fourth embodiment below; - Figure 8 shows the weave diagram used to make the knitting of Figure 7;

- Figure 9 shows the reinforcement diagram used to make the knitting of Figure 7;

- Figure 10 is a simplified schematic view of a knitted fabric obtained in accordance with the fifth embodiment;

- Figure 11 shows the weave diagram used to make the knitting of Figure 10;

- Figure 12 shows the reinforcement diagram used to make the knitting of Figure 10; - Figure 13 is a table illustrating the weave diagram for obtaining by weaving the fabric described in the sixth embodiment;

- Figures 14 and 15 are sectional views in the direction of the warp threads of the fabric produced in accordance with the weave diagram of Figure 13, and shown respectively before and after heat treatment.

Way of realizing the invention

FIG. 1 illustrates, as previously said, the general structure of a three-dimensional two-layer textile produced according to the technique of making a two-piece velvet which therefore consists of two external faces (A, B), constituted by a fabric or knitted fabric, spaced apart 'from each other and connected together by woven or knitted binding threads with said faces (A). FIG. 2 illustrates the general structure of a double-sided knitted fabric produced on a double-needle loom, and which therefore comprises a face (A) produced on the plateau and forming a Jersey, the face (B) produced from a wire identical or different to that constituting the face (A) also forming a jersey or cylinder, these two faces being linked together by a so-called binding wire working in a weave one and one, said binding wire being masked by the threads forming the surface jerseys.

Such a double fabric can for example be produced in accordance with the teachings of FR-A-2 344 659, the content of which is integrated into the present application as necessary.

In accordance with the invention, a double knitting, three-dimensional, but in which at least certain zones form patterns obtained by a reduction in the thickness imparted by the length of the flanges of the threads, is produced in a manner comparable to the teachings of this document. of binding connecting the two knitted outer faces.

To do this, in the areas where it is desired to produce such effects, the procedure is as illustrated in FIGS. 3a to 3c.

In these areas, we use a basic armor made on three successive falls.

We will therefore achieve the first fall (Figure 3 a), a Jersey to the plateau, knitted simultaneously with a first binding thread (FI) which on the one hand, will form Jersey at the plateau, and, on the other hand, will work on a selection of needles at the cylinder level, by loading or meshing with said needles. In the example given, the first tying thread (FI) loads on an alternation of five needles to the cylinder.

At the next fall (Figure 3b), we will also make a Jersey with the plateau associated with a second binding thread (F2) which, in turn, will also form Jersey and load or mesh on the five needles that have not worked in the previous fall. Finally, at the third fall (Figure 3 c), a Jersey is made at the level of the cylinder. By proceeding in this way, a three-dimensional knit is obtained, the face (A) (plate side) is twice as dense as the face (B) cylinder side.

Using bonding yarns (FI) and (F2) having different heat shrinkage characteristics from each other, 'if the entire length of the knit is produced by repeating the weave as illustrated in Figures 3a to 3c, there is obtained, after heat treatment and finishing, an article as shown schematically in Figure 3 which presents an alternation of parallel strips of different thickness.

It is also possible, by playing on the knitting cycle, for example by carrying out, as shown in FIG. 4, three successive cycles carried out in accordance with FIG. 2 followed by three cycles in which the positioning of the binding threads (FI, F2) are inverted, to obtain, after heat shrinkage treatment, offset zones of different thickness leading to the obtaining of a checkerboard effect consisting of recessed zones with respect to the adjacent zones.

Furthermore, it is possible to obtain localized effects by making the binding zones by means of two complementary threads only for certain rows of knits separated from one another by zones in which the binding is obtained, in each row, by means of d '' one and the same type of wire.

Other types of three-dimensional knitting in accordance with the invention can be produced in a different manner, as shown in particular in FIG. 6.

In such an embodiment, a circular loom with double needle bed is used, the cylinder of which makes it possible to make a selection of the Jacquard type.

Such a loom is equipped so that, at each fall, three threads are distributed simultaneously to the needles of the tray and of the cylinder, namely the thread intended to form the Jersey to the tray, that intended to form the Jersey to the cylinder and this according to a Jacquard selection, and the tying thread connecting the two knitted faces, said tying thread forming Jersey on the tray and working according to a Jacquard selection on the cylinder.

The next fall is carried out in a similar way by forming Jersey on the plateau, Jersey on the cylinder on the needles that do not work on the fall previous, and tying on the one hand, on all the needles of the tray and on the other hand, on the needles forming Jersey to the cylinder.

In such a case, a knitted fabric is obtained which has a plain face to the plate and which, at the level of the cylinder, has rows of Jersey Jacquard.

As before, by playing on the possibilities of differential retraction between the two tying threads, it is possible to obtain areas of reduced thickness, including areas forming relief at the level of the tying threads having the highest rate of shrinkage or contraction .

It should be noted that in this embodiment, at the level of the Jersey produced on the cylinder, there is a Jacquard structure, the thread working on a selection of needles and then floating on a certain number of needles on which the Jacquard complement is made at the next fall.

Example 1

Knits are produced in accordance with the invention on a circular knitting machine, double needle bed, comprising an electronic selection system at the level of the needles of the cylinder.

Such a trade has the following characteristics:

• diameter: 30 inches (76.2 cm)

• gauge: 18 (18 needles in 25.4 mm) • number of falls: 36

• total number of needles on the plate and in the cylinder: 3264

• distance (E) between the periphery of the plate and the upper edge of the cylinder: 8 mm

To make the knit according to the invention, the following threads are used:

Jersey top: polyester texture FTF 167 dtex yarn

Cylinder jersey: polyester texture FTF 220 dtex thread FI binding threads: polyester texture FTF vaporized spray 167 dtex binding threads F2 used in areas where a contraction effect is desired: polyester texture FT thread, not fixed, 165 dtex . This knitting is carried out entirely in accordance with the weave as illustrated in FIG. 2.

The length of wire delivered per turn of loom is 535 centimeters for the threads forming the Jersey to the plateau and 608 centimeters for the Jersey to the cylinder. On the other hand, for the binding threads, these being knitted in Jacquard, the flow rate is not measured.

The supply of threads for the Jersey tray and cylinder is carried out through positive suppliers.

For the binding threads, taking into account the fact that they work according to a Jacquard weave, the feeding is carried out through Jacquard suppliers (IRO type).

When the loom has fallen, a knitted fabric is obtained, the outer faces of which consist of two Jersey structures linked together by the binding threads.

After production, the unbleached fabric is dyed in pieces at 130 ° C.

Under the action of heat, there is a retraction of the binding threads (F2) based on FT texture polyester, resulting in a reduction in the thickness of the fabric in the areas where these binding threads are found.

The finished fabric weighs 380 g / m ^, and has a width of 160 cm.

It has parallel dimensions, the thickness of which varies between 4 mm in the zones with the binding wire FI, and 2 mm in the zones with the binding wire F2.

Example 2

Example 1 is repeated except that the knitting is carried out according to the weave illustrated in FIG. 4, that is to say that one alternates three knitting cycles by reversing the selection of the needles on which the binding of the threads with differential shrinkage takes place. After a heat treatment, a knitted fabric having relief effects is obtained in the form of small squares, the thickness of which varies between 4 mm for the thickest areas and 1 mm for the hollow areas.

Example 3

On a circular knitting loom, also equipped with a selection

Jacquard to the cylinder, an article according to the invention is produced from the same types of yarn as in the previous examples, except that at the level of the cylinder, a Jersey Jacquard is produced for the aspect face. This knitting is made with a Jacquard weave as illustrated in FIG. 6.

Two tying threads having different characteristics are used, said tying threads being knitted in Jersey and on the tray and on the selection of the needles of the cylinder.

The distribution of the thread to the needles at each fall is carried out by means of three throwers or a single thrower comprising three conduits for guiding the threads. The picking and the felling are regulated to obtain a distribution of the wires according to the needles of the cylinder and of the plate concerned.

Example 4

Other knitting technologies, in particular knitting with knitted stitches, make it possible to obtain fabrics in accordance with the invention. Thus, a knitted fabric having the appearance illustrated diagrammatically in FIG. 7 can be obtained by using a Rachel type knitting loom. An example of a weave diagram used is illustrated in FIG. 8 schematically, by implementing six layers of different wires.

Thus, in detail, a table is shown below in which, for each of the plies of yarns used Bl and B6, we have identified:

- in a first column, the weave diagram, corresponding conventionally to the movement of the wires relative to the guide bars, indicating the unitary sequence, which must possibly be reproduced successively; - in a second column, the type of wire used; and

- in a third column, the flow of wire in greenhouses per rack

For this particular example, the Rachel loom used operates at a speed of 900 strokes / min, corresponding to a production of 20 m / h. The distance between needles is 2.5 mm and the knitted fabric obtained has twenty stitches per centimeter and a weight of 280 g / m ² .

Example 5

Another example of a weaving diagram used on the same knitting machine Rachel is illustrated in FIG. 11 schematically, by implementing six layers of different threads.

The table below is analogous to the table given in Example 5.

In the example illustrated, the trade used works in the same way as for Example 5.

Example 6

As already mentioned, the invention can also be implemented using a warp and weft weaving technology. Such an example is illustrated in Figures 13 to 15.

Thus, FIG. 13 illustrates the weave diagram used for a particular example, using six different warp threads, on a double ply loom without slitting with a saber. Such a loom has a chain of 96 threads per centimeter on the two layers. The fabric obtained has 26 weft threads per centimeter.

In the example illustrated, the warp threads bearing the numbers 1, 2, 4 and 5 are attached false twist polyester threads comprising two ends of 167 dtex and 48 filaments. The two tying threads are different threads. The first tying yarn, namely warp yarn no. 3, is a smooth monofilament polyester yarn of 115 dtex. The second warp yarn, namely warp yarn # 6, is a false twist polyester yarn of 167 dtex and 48 filaments. The weft threads used are identical to the warp threads 1, 2, 4 and 5.

After weaving, one obtains as illustrated in FIG. 14, a fabric comprising two faces connected by the two different warp threads of binding, namely warp thread no. 3 and warp thread no. 6.

After heat treatment, and as illustrated in FIG. 15, the warp yarn no. 6 having retracted more significantly than the warp yarn no. 3, the fabric has an area of less thickness at the level where the yarn of chain n ° 6 played the role of tying thread.

In the rest of the fabric, the No. 6 warp thread is hidden inside the fabric so as not to form floating threads on the face of the fabric. It is therefore preferable to use the face illustrated on the right in FIG. 15 as the external face of the fabric. The articles produced in accordance with the process according to the invention can be used in numerous applications where it is desired to obtain characteristics of comfort, insulation, resistance to compression, while having relief and hollow decorations impossible to obtain. with prior techniques.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the embodiments described above, but it covers all the variants produced in the same spirit.

Claims

1 / Three-dimensional double-sided fabric consisting of two external plies (A, B), spaced from one another and connected together by binding threads (F), which extend substantially perpendicular to the facing surfaces of the two plies (A, B), characterized in that in certain areas of the fabric, the binding threads are of at least two different types, having different contraction or retraction capacities, these two types of binding threads working in a complementary manner so that they form zones of different thicknesses imparting to the fabric a relief effect.

2 / Double-sided three-dimensional fabric. according to claim 1, characterized in that it is constituted by a double piece velvet, the connecting threads of which are not cut, the outer layers consisting of two fabrics or knits, of the same or different nature, linked together by tying threads (F) formed in certain areas of the fabric of at least two types of threads (F1, F2) having different contraction or retraction capacities, the relief effect being obtained by producing these the structure by making the two types of binding thread work in a complementary manner.

3 / Double-sided three-dimensional fabric according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it is woven.

4 / Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to one of the. Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it consists of a knitted fabric knitted more particularly on a Rachel loom with two needle beds.

5 / three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it is constituted by a knitted fabric.

61 Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that the knitting is carried out on a double needle-stitch loom, at least one of which is equipped with a needle selection system, and in which: the outer layers consist of two Jersey knits (plain or

Jacquard) made from identical or different threads; these two outer layers are interconnected by rows of connecting threads working on the two needle beds, by forming stitches or by simply being picked up by the needles and; certain rows of knitting comprise the combination of two types of connecting threads (F1, F2) having .characteristics of retraction or withdrawal different from each other, and which work in this row according to a complementary selection of needles.

7 / double-sided three-dimensional fabric according to one of claims 5 and 6, characterized in that the relief effect is obtained directly during knitting, without additional treatment, the binding yarn for obtaining the shrinkage being constituted by a elastic thread, knitted under tension, the second binding thread being constituted by a conventional, synthetic or natural thread.

8 / three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that the elastic thread consists of a thread comprising an elastane core covered by a polyester or polyamide thread, and as non-stretchy thread a polyester or polyamide monofilament or a polyester multifilament or polyamide, the shrinkage being obtained directly at the fall of the loom by the retraction of the covered knitted yarn under tension.

9 / three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the relief is obtained by using threads having differential shrinkage characteristics. under the action of a heat treatment.

10 / Double-sided three-dimensional fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that a combination of polyester or polyamide yarns textures by false twist not fixed and polyester or polyamide yarns textures by fixed false twist is used.

11 / three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that one uses a combination of a polyester or polyamide yarn texture by false twist not fixed and a second connecting yarn constituted by a polyester or polyamide monofilament yarn.