Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
  • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
  • D03D11/02—Fabrics formed with pockets, tubes, loops, folds, tucks or flaps
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D7/00—Woven fabrics designed to be resilient, i.e. to recover from compressive stress
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
  • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
  • D04B21/08—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
  • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
  • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
  • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
  • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
  • D10B2403/022—Lofty fabric with variably spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics
  • D10B2403/0222—Lofty fabric with variably spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics with at least one baggy or puckered ply

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a new type of double-sided, three-dimensional fabric, consisting essentially of two external plies formed by a fabric or a knitted fabric, spaced from one another and linked together by woven threads. or knitted with the aforementioned plies, which extend substantially perpendicular to the facing surfaces of the two plies and which are linked to the latter without appearing on the outer faces,
• Such double-sided fabrics are well known in the textile industry and were originally used to make velvet fabrics by cutting the connecting threads in the middle part of the fabric or three-dimensional knitted fabric thus produced.
• These three-dimensional materials are also widely used to constitute the textile reinforcements of composite materials.
• the binding threads are of at least two different types, having different contraction or retraction capacities, these two types of binding threads working in a complementary manner so that 'they form zones of different thicknesses giving the fabric a relief effect.
• threads forming part of the article according to the invention use will be made, for background threads intended to form the surface layers (woven or knitted), of the same or different nature, and, with regard to the binding yarns, at least two types of yarns having different contraction or retraction capacities.
• the relief effect is obtained by carrying out certain zones of the structure by making work in a complementary way the two types of different types of tying threads.
• the invention will be more particularly described for the production of a knitted three-dimensional textile structure, produced on double needle stitch picking looms, at least one of which is equipped with a system for selecting the needles.
• the outer layers of three-dimensional knitting consist of two Jersey knits (plain or Jacquard) made from identical or different threads and; 4 these two outer layers are linked together by rows of connecting threads working on the two needle beds, forming stitches or being simply picked up by the needles and; * certain rows of knitting comprise the combination of two types of connecting threads having different retraction or withdrawal characteristics from one another, and which work in this row according to a complementary selection of needles.
• Two combinations of threads of different nature can be used to make a product according to the invention.
• the relief effect is obtained directly during knitting, without additional treatment, the binding wire allowing the shrinkage to be obtained being constituted by an elastic thread, knitted under tension, the second binding thread being made up of a conventional, synthetic or natural thread.
• the relief is obtained by using wires having differential shrinkage characteristics under the action of a heat treatment.
• the attached diagrams illustrate the manner in which the product according to the invention is produced.
• Figure 1 illustrates the general structure of a three-dimensional double-sided structure according to the prior art
• Figure 2 illustrating the general structure of a double-sided knitted fabric of the prior art.
• FIGS. 3a, 3b, 3c illustrate the basic cycle for producing a three-dimensional knitted structure according to the invention having, after production, relief effects obtained by varying the thickness of the knitted fabric formed, FIG. 3 schematically illustrating, in perspective, a knitted fabric produced entirely on the basis of the weave illustrated in FIGS. 3a, 3b, 3c;
• FIGS. 4a to 4f illustrate the knitting cycle of a three-dimensional structure in accordance with the invention, the diagrams located on the left representing the positioning of the external faces and the connecting threads during the knitting operation, and the diagrams located at straight line illustrating the final structure after retraction or withdrawal of one of the two binding threads, and making it possible to obtain relief and hollow effects formed by alternating knitted zones in the form of small juxtaposed squares, such as illustrated in Figure 5; - Figure 6 illustrates the basic cycle of a relief knitting produced in accordance with the invention, one of the faces of which also has a Jacquard effect;
• FIG. 7 is a simplified schematic view of a knitted fabric obtained in accordance with the fourth embodiment below;
• - Figure 8 shows the weave diagram used to make the knitting of Figure 7;
• Figure 9 shows the reinforcement diagram used to make the knitting of Figure 7;
• FIG. 10 is a simplified schematic view of a knitted fabric obtained in accordance with the fifth embodiment.
• - Figure 12 shows the reinforcement diagram used to make the knitting of Figure 10
• - Figure 13 is a table illustrating the weave diagram for obtaining by weaving the fabric described in the sixth embodiment
• FIGS 14 and 15 are sectional views in the direction of the warp threads of the fabric produced in accordance with the weave diagram of Figure 13, and shown respectively before and after heat treatment.
• FIG. 1 illustrates, as previously said, the general structure of a three-dimensional two-layer textile produced according to the technique of making a two-piece velvet which therefore consists of two external faces (A, B), constituted by a fabric or knitted fabric, spaced apart 'from each other and connected together by woven or knitted binding threads with said faces (A).
• A, B two external faces
• FIG. 1 illustrates, as previously said, the general structure of a three-dimensional two-layer textile produced according to the technique of making a two-piece velvet which therefore consists of two external faces (A, B), constituted by a fabric or knitted fabric, spaced apart 'from each other and connected together by woven or knitted binding threads with said faces (A).
• FIG. 2 illustrates the general structure of a double-sided knitted fabric produced on a double-needle loom, and which therefore comprises a face (A) produced on the plateau and forming a Jersey, the face (B) produced from a wire identical or different to that constituting the face (A) also forming a jersey or cylinder, these two faces being linked together by a so-called binding wire working in a weave one and one, said binding wire being masked by the threads forming the surface jerseys.
• Such a double fabric can for example be produced in accordance with the teachings of FR-A-2 344 659, the content of which is integrated into the present application as necessary.
• a double knitting, three-dimensional, but in which at least certain zones form patterns obtained by a reduction in the thickness imparted by the length of the flanges of the threads, is produced in a manner comparable to the teachings of this document. of binding connecting the two knitted outer faces.
• a circular loom with double needle bed is used, the cylinder of which makes it possible to make a selection of the Jacquard type.
• Such a loom is equipped so that, at each fall, three threads are distributed simultaneously to the needles of the tray and of the cylinder, namely the thread intended to form the Jersey to the tray, that intended to form the Jersey to the cylinder and this according to a Jacquard selection, and the tying thread connecting the two knitted faces, said tying thread forming Jersey on the tray and working according to a Jacquard selection on the cylinder.
• the next fall is carried out in a similar way by forming Jersey on the plateau, Jersey on the cylinder on the needles that do not work on the fall previous, and tying on the one hand, on all the needles of the tray and on the other hand, on the needles forming Jersey to the cylinder.
• a knitted fabric which has a plain face to the plate and which, at the level of the cylinder, has rows of Jersey Jacquard.
• Knits are produced in accordance with the invention on a circular knitting machine, double needle bed, comprising an electronic selection system at the level of the needles of the cylinder.
• Cylinder jersey polyester texture FTF 220 dtex thread
• FI binding threads polyester texture
• F2 used in areas where a contraction effect is desired polyester texture FT thread, not fixed, 165 dtex . This knitting is carried out entirely in accordance with the weave as illustrated in FIG. 2.
• the length of wire delivered per turn of loom is 535 centimeters for the threads forming the Jersey to the plateau and 608 centimeters for the Jersey to the cylinder.
• the flow rate is not measured.
• the supply of threads for the Jersey tray and cylinder is carried out through positive suppliers.
• the unbleached fabric is dyed in pieces at 130 ° C.
• the finished fabric weighs 380 g / m ⁇ , and has a width of 160 cm.
• Example 1 is repeated except that the knitting is carried out according to the weave illustrated in FIG. 4, that is to say that one alternates three knitting cycles by reversing the selection of the needles on which the binding of the threads with differential shrinkage takes place.
• a knitted fabric having relief effects is obtained in the form of small squares, the thickness of which varies between 4 mm for the thickest areas and 1 mm for the hollow areas.
• Jacquard to the cylinder an article according to the invention is produced from the same types of yarn as in the previous examples, except that at the level of the cylinder, a Jersey Jacquard is produced for the aspect face. This knitting is made with a Jacquard weave as illustrated in FIG. 6.
• Two tying threads having different characteristics are used, said tying threads being knitted in Jersey and on the tray and on the selection of the needles of the cylinder.
• the distribution of the thread to the needles at each fall is carried out by means of three throwers or a single thrower comprising three conduits for guiding the threads.
• the picking and the felling are regulated to obtain a distribution of the wires according to the needles of the cylinder and of the plate concerned.
• FIG. 7 An example of a weave diagram used is illustrated in FIG. 8 schematically, by implementing six layers of different wires.
• the weave diagram corresponding conventionally to the movement of the wires relative to the guide bars, indicating the unitary sequence, which must possibly be reproduced successively;
• - in a second column the type of wire used;
• the Rachel loom used operates at a speed of 900 strokes / min, corresponding to a production of 20 m / h.
• the distance between needles is 2.5 mm and the knitted fabric obtained has twenty stitches per centimeter and a weight of 280 g / m 2 .
• FIG. 11 Another example of a weaving diagram used on the same knitting machine Rachel is illustrated in FIG. 11 schematically, by implementing six layers of different threads.
• the invention can also be implemented using a warp and weft weaving technology. Such an example is illustrated in Figures 13 to 15.
• FIG. 13 illustrates the weave diagram used for a particular example, using six different warp threads, on a double ply loom without slitting with a saber.
• a loom has a chain of 96 threads per centimeter on the two layers.
• the fabric obtained has 26 weft threads per centimeter.
• the warp threads bearing the numbers 1, 2, 4 and 5 are attached false twist polyester threads comprising two ends of 167 dtex and 48 filaments.
• the two tying threads are different threads.
• the first tying yarn, namely warp yarn no. 3 is a smooth monofilament polyester yarn of 115 dtex.
• the second warp yarn, namely warp yarn # 6, is a false twist polyester yarn of 167 dtex and 48 filaments.
• the weft threads used are identical to the warp threads 1, 2, 4 and 5.
• the fabric After heat treatment, and as illustrated in FIG. 15, the warp yarn no. 6 having retracted more significantly than the warp yarn no. 3, the fabric has an area of less thickness at the level where the yarn of chain n ° 6 played the role of tying thread.
• the No. 6 warp thread is hidden inside the fabric so as not to form floating threads on the face of the fabric. It is therefore preferable to use the face illustrated on the right in FIG. 15 as the external face of the fabric.
• the articles produced in accordance with the process according to the invention can be used in numerous applications where it is desired to obtain characteristics of comfort, insulation, resistance to compression, while having relief and hollow decorations impossible to obtain. with prior techniques.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
• Woven Fabrics (AREA)
• Laminated Bodies (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Publications (2)

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ID=8859981

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (6)

Cited By (1)

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• 2001
  • 2001-02-14 FR FR0101974A patent/FR2820763B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2002
  • 2002-02-11 ES ES02703687T patent/ES2283522T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2002-02-11 DE DE60219599T patent/DE60219599T2/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2002-02-11 EP EP02703687A patent/EP1360354B1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2002-02-11 WO PCT/FR2002/000509 patent/WO2002064870A1/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2002-02-11 AT AT02703687T patent/ATE360112T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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