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WO2006128777A1 - Preparations cosmetiques presentant une certaine teneur en extrait aqueux d'anis et en filtres solaires sulfones - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques presentant une certaine teneur en extrait aqueux d'anis et en filtres solaires sulfones Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006128777A1
WO2006128777A1 PCT/EP2006/062189 EP2006062189W WO2006128777A1 WO 2006128777 A1 WO2006128777 A1 WO 2006128777A1 EP 2006062189 W EP2006062189 W EP 2006062189W WO 2006128777 A1 WO2006128777 A1 WO 2006128777A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
polyethylene glycol
acid
preparation according
ether
skin
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Ceased
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PCT/EP2006/062189
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Uta Kruse
Christopher Mummert
Stefan Gallinat
Anja Knott
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Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Publication of WO2006128777A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006128777A1/fr
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9771—Ginkgophyta, e.g. Ginkgoaceae [Ginkgo family]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France, and one or more sulfonated light filters.
  • anise Pimpinella anis fruit extract
  • a very important for the consumer, but it is difficult to quantitatively measurable property of cosmetic products is a certain invigorating and / or smooth skin feel and the suppleness of the skin after its application.
  • a rosy skin color (such as is available by staying in the open air) is considered by consumers to be healthy and therefore desirable, whereas a pale complexion is generally not as desirable.
  • Prtpl-02215 It is an object of the present invention to provide skincare preparations and preparations for the care of naturally aged skin, wherein the preparations are intended to nourish and beautify the external appearance of the body and at the same time reduce wrinkles and eliminate cellulites.
  • a cosmetic preparation containing (a) an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France, and (b) one or more several sulfonated light filter helps the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • Such a preparation has the significant advantage over prior art formulations that skin pores are refined and an overall healthier skin appearance is achieved.
  • such preparation has the following additional benefits: It promotes the natural regeneration process and cell metabolism of the skin, activates skin protection systems and makes the skin more resistant to stressors, counteracts (first) signs of aging, reducing lines and facial lines, refining pores and
  • the skin is visibly tightened and smoothed, deeply activates the skin's own production of components of connective tissue such as collagens, elastic fibers and proteoglycans (including hyaluronic acids), counteracts the formation of new wrinkles sustainably, the energy depots / reserves filled and the skin / cell regeneration improves, rejuvenates the skin's internal structure by improving the epidermal-dermal (papillae), thereby refining and tightening facial and skin contours, firming the skin palpably and visibly and improving skin elasticity.
  • connective tissue such as collagens, elastic fibers and proteoglycans (including hyaluronic acids)
  • Bioxilift is an aqueous fruit extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract).
  • the extract has an amber-like color and has a characteristic anise smell.
  • Prtpl-02215 The extract is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, but especially in potassium ions.
  • the recorded spectra provide no clue for the identification of individual lead structures or principles of action. Rather, the spectra represent "typical" plant extract spectra.
  • the specific composition is:
  • Dry matter 40-60 g / l Mineral ashes 11-18 g / l Total protein 12-20 g / l pH 4.5-5.5
  • the extract is preserved with butylene glycol 0.36% and parabens 0.14% and is soluble in ethanol up to a ratio of 40/60 ethanol / water (v / v).
  • the aniseed fruits are solubilized in water and hydrolyzed enzymatically.
  • the ratio of raw material to extract is Vz. Soluble and insoluble phases are separated and subsequently filtered or subsequently sterile filtered. Bioxilift is offered by the company SILAB, France.
  • Sulfonated light filters according to the invention are provided.
  • 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or its ethanolamine ammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise;
  • Prtpl-02215 Salts (especially the entprechenden 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl-10-sulfonic acid) becomes.
  • Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephthalic Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2) and is, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX available from Chimex;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomyliden- methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the total amount of the filter substances is from the range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-% - each based on the total weight of the preparations - chosen to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • the preparation additionally contains inorganic pigments, preferably coated titanium dioxide.
  • Inorganic pigments within the meaning of the invention are metal oxides and / or other sparingly water-soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ) , Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (for example Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ).
  • the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersants and / or solubilization agents may advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments may advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), whereby, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment may consist in using a thin hydrophilic and hydrophilic pigment according to methods known per se
  • the various surface coatings may also comprise water .
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the context of the present invention may consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or alumina hydrate (also: Alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 J 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) ,, silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Organic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • dimethylpolysiloxane also: dimethicone
  • methicone methylpolysiloxane
  • simethicone a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:
  • Prtpl-02215 Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names:
  • alpha-hydroxy acids are additionally present in the preparation. It is further preferred if the preparation additionally contains glycerol. It is further preferred if the preparation is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or an O / W hydrodispersion. It is further preferred if substances having a particle diameter of 10 to 250 nm, preferably 10 to 100 nm, are selected as the coated titanium dioxide. It is further preferred if the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid or tartaric acid. It is further preferred if the preparation has a pH of from 3 to 10, preferably from 4 to 8.
  • the invention also encompasses the use of a preparation according to the invention against wrinkles and / or for increasing skin elasticity.
  • Preparations present as emulsions according to the present invention comprise one or more emulsifiers.
  • O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, eg. B .:
  • Prtpl-02215 R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -C (O) -R ',
  • alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -CH 2 -COOH nd n represent a number from 5 to 30,
  • alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates have the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -SO 3 -II
  • Prtpl-02215 • the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X n -Y m -H. 1
  • the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are selected particularly advantageously from the group of substances having HLB values of from 11 to 18, very particularly advantageously having HLB values of from 14.5 to 15, 5, provided that the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or higher.
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylsteargyl alcohols (ceteargyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are:
  • Prtpl-02215 Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17 isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
  • Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isoloureth-12).
  • Prtpl-02215 The ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be sodium laureth-11-carboxylate.
  • sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can be advantageously used.
  • Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven.
  • the ethoxylated triglycerides may advantageously be the polyethylene glycol ( ⁇ O) Evening Primrose Glycerides (Evening Primrose).
  • polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprate, polyethylene glycol (20 ) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.
  • sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
  • O / W emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, cetearyl glucosides, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, stearic acid, ceteareth-20 and steareth-21.
  • Useful advantageous W / O emulsifiers include: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched
  • W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate Glycerylmonoiso-, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl- monoisostearate, glycolmonocaprylat propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene, propylene glycol, sorbitan, Sorbitanmo- monolaurate, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.
  • the emulsions may also contain hydrocolloids (also referred to as thickeners or gel formers) which can stabilize the preparations.
  • hydrocolloids also referred to as thickeners or gel formers
  • Agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, xanthan gum, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and -propyl cellulose derivatives, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids are advantageous hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention .
  • Polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicic acids are advantageous hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention .
  • Further advantageous gelling agents are for example copolymers of Ci-3 o O-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof.
  • the INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.”
  • Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon).
  • Carbopols are also advantageous gelling agents for such preparations.
  • Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers.
  • Advantageous Carbopols are for example the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and
  • Prtpl-02215 5984 likewise the ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, PVM / MA Decadien Crosspolymer (trade name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate and polyacrylamide, ammonium dimethyltauramide / vinylformamide copolymer, copolymeric copolymer / crosspolymers comprising acryloyldimethyltaurate, polyacryloyldimethyltauramide, polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymer thereof.
  • Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are: magnesium and / or aluminum silicates and, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula
  • R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methylcelluloses and which, in addition to a dominating content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
  • Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
  • copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from the GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • preservatives preservatives, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to increase the foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feel on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, imidazolidinylurea, diazolidinylurea, benzoic acid and the like.
  • iodopropyl butylcarbamates for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker
  • parabens ie p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or
  • Prtpl-02215 Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -Ethylendiamindisuccinat (EDDS), which is available, for example, under the trade name Octaquest from the company.
  • Octel pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate, which z. B. under the trade name Dequest 2046 from the company.
  • Monsanto is available and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which inter alia from the company.
  • Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (about 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 firmly available is.
  • compositions are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants.
  • antioxidants all suitable or common for cosmetic applications antioxidants can be used.
  • water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins.
  • antioxidants are vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • active ingredients to be used in the context of the present invention are those which have a positive effect on the condition of the skin, in particular active ingredients for positively influencing the aging skin, which reduce the development of wrinkles or even existing wrinkles.
  • biochinones in particular ubiquinone (Q10) and ubiquinol, folic acid and its derivatives (in particular tetrahydrofolic acid and dihydrofolic acid), niacin and its derivatives (especially niacinamide), creatine and creatinine, carnitine, biotin, isoflavone and its derivatives, lipoic acid, ginkgo Extracts, hops and hops malt extracts.
  • agents that promote the restructuring of connective tissue such as natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-containing plant extracts - such.
  • soy and clover extracts - can be used very well in the formulations of the invention.
  • the formulations are particularly suitable as active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin (such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, carnitine, propionic acid, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts (such as, for example, NaCl, Marine minerals) as well as osmolytes (such as inositol, betaine, quaternary ammonium compounds)).
  • agents such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcone, especially licochalcone A, dexpanthenol, inhibitors of prostaglandin metabolism, in particular cyclooxygenase and leukotriene metabolism, especially the 5-lipoxygenase, but also the 5-lipoxevase inhibitor protein, FLAP.
  • creatine and creatinine are suitable active ingredients to create and / or renew an (energy) depot and to activate the repair of various cellular structures, in particular the DNA.
  • modulators of pigmentation also proved to be advantageous.
  • agents that reduce the pigmentation of the skin and thus lead to a cosmetically desired lightening of the skin and / or reduce the occurrence of age spots and / or lighten existing age spots include tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid (8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid) and various extracts of licorice, arbutin, alpha-arbutin, deoxyarbutin, fruit acids, especially alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), Bearberry (Uvae ursi), Ursolic acid, ascorbic acid, pyridoxamine, niacinamide,
  • Prtpl-02215 Inventive formulations which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and / or derivatives, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, as they are z.
  • known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and / or derivatives, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic preparations the property, after application or distribution on the skin surface, to reduce the moisture release of the hom layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or to positively influence the hydration of the initial layer ,
  • TEWL transepidermal water loss
  • the skin's barrier function is normalized, the skin is noticeably refreshed and invigorated, and the skin appears smoother.
  • the deep-acting increase in moisture visibly reduces swelling and dark circles, stimulates the formation of skin's own lipids and stimulates the skin's natural anti-aging functions and the overall performance of the skin.
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, panthenol and urea.
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention advantageously contains nonpolar, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, polyolefins, hydrogenated
  • Prtpl-02215 Polyisobutenes and isohexadecane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase can also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are synthetic compounds in which silicon atoms via oxygen atoms chain and / or net-like linked and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated , Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • cyclomethicone octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
  • silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Prtpl-02215 Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyltin-methicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which are also referred to as cyclomethicones according to INCI, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, eg. B.
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as various Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the present invention may also advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:
  • Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R 2 SiO and RSiOi, 5 and / or R 3 SiO 0 , 5 and / or SiO 2 , wherein the individual radicals R are each independently hydrogen, Ci -24 -alkyl (as for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or ToIyI), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R 2 SiO to RSiOi, 5 is selected from the range of 1: 1 to 30: 1;
  • Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil obtainable by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being such be such that the amount of the hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups
  • the siloxane elastomer (s) are in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
  • siloxane elastomers are those with the INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder available.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils of hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof which are liquid or pasty at room temperature.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11, in particular the Gransil types available from Grant Industries Inc. GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE gel, PM-GeI, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
  • the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the silicone elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , in each case based on the total weight of the gel.
  • the total amount of siloxane elastomers from the range of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, advantageously from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation cosmétique contenant (a) un extrait aqueux d'anis (extrait d'anis vert), en vente sous le nom commercial de Bioxilift de la société SILAB, St. Viance, France, et (b) un ou plusieurs filtres solaires sulfonés.
PCT/EP2006/062189 2005-06-03 2006-05-10 Preparations cosmetiques presentant une certaine teneur en extrait aqueux d'anis et en filtres solaires sulfones Ceased WO2006128777A1 (fr)

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DE102005026007.1 2005-06-03
DE102005026007A DE102005026007A1 (de) 2005-06-03 2005-06-03 Kosmetische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an einem besonderen Anisfruchtextrakt und sulfonierten Lichtfiltern

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