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WO2013092448A2 - Utilisation d'acides hydroxamiques pour la stabilisation de préparations cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques - Google Patents

Utilisation d'acides hydroxamiques pour la stabilisation de préparations cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013092448A2
WO2013092448A2 PCT/EP2012/075689 EP2012075689W WO2013092448A2 WO 2013092448 A2 WO2013092448 A2 WO 2013092448A2 EP 2012075689 W EP2012075689 W EP 2012075689W WO 2013092448 A2 WO2013092448 A2 WO 2013092448A2
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
polyethylene glycol
cosmetic
acid
ether
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PCT/EP2012/075689
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2013092448A3 (fr
Inventor
Manuela Köhler
Michaela Kohut
Rainer Kröpke
Anke Pilzner
Christian Dingler
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Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/51—Chelating agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers

Definitions

  • hydroxamic acids for stabilizing cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the protection of the sensitive skin from irritation and to the use of such active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.
  • the present invention relates to an application which makes it possible to increase the stability of emulsions, gels, aqueous formulations or fat formulations.
  • the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (horny layer), is of particular importance as an important barrier layer, inter alia. for protection against environmental influences and dehydration.
  • the horny layer is constantly worn in contact with the environment and must therefore be renewed continuously.
  • a skin model widely used today in the art understands the stratum corneum as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model).
  • the corneocytes horny cells
  • the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.
  • the epidermal lipids In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.
  • Cosmetics usually contain, in addition to balanced lipid blends and water, water-binding substances.
  • Cosmetic skin care is understood primarily to strengthen or restore the natural function of the skin as a barrier to environmental influences (e.g., dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and to the loss of endogenous substances (e.g., water, natural fats, electrolyte).
  • environmental influences e.g., dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • endogenous substances e.g., water, natural fats, electrolyte
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the daily loss of fat and water loss of the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration capacity is insufficient.
  • skin care products to protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and delay the aging of the skin.
  • Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions, ie metastable two- or multi-phase systems in which the individual phases are in the liquid state.
  • the most common emulsions are O / W and W / O emulsions.
  • Rarer forms of administration are multiple emulsions, ie those which are present in the droplets of the dispersed (or disperse) continuous) phase in turn contain droplets of a further dispersed phase, for example W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.
  • emulsifiers such as any chemical substance, may in individual cases cause allergic or hypersensitivity reactions of the user.
  • emulsifier-free preparations which, for example, have oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, similar to an O / W emulsion.
  • a prerequisite for this may be that the continuous aqueous phase has a gel skeleton which stabilizes the dispersed phase and other circumstances more.
  • Such systems are sometimes called hydrodispersions or oleodispersions, whichever is the disperse and which is the continuous phase.
  • a disadvantage in particular of O / W emulsions is often their lack of stability towards higher electrolyte concentrations, which manifests itself in phase separation. While this may occasionally cause problems with W / O emulsions, it is not nearly as prominent here as in O / W systems. Although this can often be done by appropriate To some extent, choosing the emulsifier system will help, but there are just as many other disadvantages.
  • Complexing agents in particular chelators, form complexes with metal atoms, which in the presence of one or more polybasic complexing agents, ie chelators, represent metallacycles.
  • Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this case, normally stretched compounds are closed by complex formation via a metal atom or ion into rings. The number of bound ligands depends on the coordination number of the central metal. The prerequisite for chelation is that the metal-reactive compound contain two or more atomic groups acting as electron donors.
  • a disadvantage of many chelators is that they are difficult to biodegrade, almost inevitably be registered in the ecological water cycle. By solubilization of precipitated or sediment-bound - and thereby relatively harmless - heavy metal ions, they can in the worst case contribute to their reactivation.
  • a further object of the present invention was therefore to discover solutions to cosmetic or dermatological emulsions, in particular O / W emulsions, which are stable to increased electrolyte concentrations or elevated ionic strengths or heavy metal ions.
  • gels are understood to mean relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems of at least two components, which as a rule consist of a (mostly solid) colloid-divided substance of long-chain molecular groupings (eg gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) as a scaffold former and a liquid dispersant (eg water) exist.
  • the colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickener or gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersion medium, whereby individual colloidal particles can be more or less strongly linked to each other via electrostatic interaction.
  • the dispersant surrounding the network is characterized by electrostatic affinity for the gelling agent, ie, a predominately polar (especially hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersing agent (especially: water), whereas a predominantly nonpolar gelling agent preferably gels non-polar dispersing agent.
  • a predominately polar (especially hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersing agent (especially: water)
  • a predominantly nonpolar gelling agent preferably gels non-polar dispersing agent.
  • lipogels and oleogels from waxes, fats and fatty oils
  • carbogels from paraffin or petrolatum
  • oleogels which are practically anhydrous
  • hydrogels which are virtually free of fat.
  • gels are transparent.
  • gels are usually characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency.
  • surfactant gels are common preparations of the prior art. This refers to systems which, in addition to water, have a high concentration of emulsifiers, typically more than about 25% by weight, based on the total composition. Solubilized in these surfactant gels, technically also called “surfactant gels", oil components, microemulsion gels are obtained, which are also known as "ringing By adding nonionic emulsifiers, for example alkylpolyglycosides, cosmetically elegant microemulsion gels can be obtained.
  • the log P value indicates the logarithmic coefficient of the octanoi / water K 0 w distribution coefficient and is a measure of how the relationship between lipopoly (fat solubility) and hydrophilicity (water solubility) of a substance is. It serves as a model estimation in which phase (oil or water) the substance dissolves or accumulates preferentially.
  • the log P is positive for lipophilic substances and negative for hydrophilic substances
  • a log P value of three means that the active ingredient would be distributed in an octanoi / water mixture in the ratio 1000: 1. So enriched by a factor of 1000 higher in the oil phase. The same applies to substances that have only a very low solubility in water. These substances are - if they are formulated crystal-free - to find predominantly in the lipid phase.
  • Cosmetic and pharmaceutical agents are often, but not always, stable against environmental influences. Thus, numerous instabilities to oxygen - or more generally redox processes - and UV light, but also against heat and other known.
  • drugs that are known to be sensitive to such processes include
  • achieving or increasing the stability means that a corresponding formulation, which has a content of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, exhibits a higher stability than a corresponding formulation without hydroxamic acid.
  • the term "stability" is intended in this context to mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it is an emulsion, a hydrodispersion, an oleodispersion, a hydrogel or an oleogel, a longer time and / or at higher Protected against phase separation is a product without hydroxamic acid.
  • the term “stability” may also mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it contains a dye, this dye is protected for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or at a higher dose of light against chemical decomposition
  • the term “stability” may also mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it contains a perfume component or a cosmetic fragrance component, this drug for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or is protected against chemical decomposition at a higher dose of light than a product without hydroxamic acid.
  • the term "stability" may also mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it contains a cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient, this active ingredient for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or at a higher dose of light against chemical decomposition is protected as a product without hydroxamic acid.
  • the term "stability" may also mean that the product containing one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, when containing polyvalent metal ions, protects the product against chemical degradation for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or at a higher dose of light a product without hydroxamic acid.
  • hydroxamic acids exhibit a beneficial chelating property in cosmetic or dermatological preparations. Therefore, the use according to the invention of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids is also suitable as chelating agents for divalent or polyvalent metal ions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • Octanohydroxamic acid also called caprylohydroxamic acid
  • caprylohydroxamic acid is characterized by the following structure.
  • Preparations according to the invention are advantageously characterized by a content of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 to 3.0 wt .-%, of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, in particular octanohydroxamic acid, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of conventional complexing agents such as those selected from the group ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediamino-triacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1, 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their anions to keep low or to dispense entirely.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • HOEDTA hydroxyethylenediamino-triacetic acid
  • DPTA diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid
  • CDTA 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid
  • hydroxamic acid or the hydroxamic acids in particular the octanohydroxamic acid, to the other constituents at any desired point in time of the preparation.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, antifoaming agents, dyes, coloring pigments, thickeners, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, antifoaming agents, dyes, coloring pigments, thickeners, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers
  • preparations according to the invention may also contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances For example, 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic preparations to provide the hair or the skin against the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for hair.
  • UVB filter substances these may be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble UVB filters according to the invention are, for example:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate,
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate,
  • Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are, for example:
  • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor such as, for example, 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts, and di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the debasing 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1, 4- di (2-oxo-3-boronylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid
  • the list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention should of course not be limiting.
  • UVA filters that are commonly included in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • the amounts used for the UVB combination can be used.
  • cosmetic and dermatological preparations advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (Zr0 2 ), silicon (Si0 2 ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (eg Ce 2 0 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO 2 .
  • inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (Zr0 2 ), silicon (Si0 2 ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (eg Ce 2
  • inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, that is, that they are superficially treated to repel water.
  • This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophobic layer according to methods known per se.
  • hydrophobic surface layer is generated according to a reaction according to n Ti0 2 + m (RO) 3 Si-R '-> n Ti0 2 (surface), where n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used as desired , R and R 'are the desired organic radicals.
  • n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used as desired
  • R and R ' are the desired organic radicals.
  • Advantageous Ti0 2 pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from the company TAYCA, furthermore M 160 from the company Kemira and T 805 from the company Degussa.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention.
  • Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water.
  • hydrophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 " , while the hydrophobic moieties usually represent nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals, surfactants generally being sorted and charged of the hydrophilic part of the molecule, whereby four groups can be distinguished:
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution, they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example is intended to illustrate:
  • Non-ionic surfactants are polyether chains. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • acylglutamates for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
  • acyl peptides for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolysed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
  • sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • Carboxylic acids and derivatives such as
  • carboxylic acids for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc undecylenate,
  • Ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • Ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,
  • Sulfonic acids and salts such as
  • Alkyl sulfonates for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C 12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctylsodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laurethsulfosuccinate, disodium laurylsulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, as well as Sulfuric acid esters, such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA rethsulfat lauryl sulfate, sodium and sodium C 12- 13 pareth,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH.
  • Advantageous are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfine.
  • the cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds having a cationic character, such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to
  • acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulphoneate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • Nonionic surfactants are provided.
  • alkanolamides such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • amine oxides such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide
  • Ethers for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.
  • the surface-active substance can be present in a concentration of between 1 and 95% by weight in the preparations according to the invention, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Preparations according to the invention may also be in the form of cosmetic deodorants and / or antiperspirants.
  • Deodorants should fulfill the following conditions:
  • liquid deodorants for example aerosol sprays, roll-ons and the like
  • solid preparations for example deodorant sticks (sticks), powders, powder sprays, intimate cleaning agents, etc.
  • antiperspirants can be reduced by astringents - predominantly aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (Aluchlorhydrat) - the formation of sweat.
  • the bacterial flora on the skin can be reduced.
  • only the odor causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced.
  • the sweat flow itself is not affected by this, in the ideal case, only the microbial decomposition of the sweat is temporarily stopped.
  • oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, furthermore natural oils, e.g. Castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
  • Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.
  • the oil phase of the emulsions according to the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group consisting of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, Ci2-i5-alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Ci2-i5-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate mixtures of C 2 is-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C 2- 15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
  • silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:
  • linear silicones with several siloxyl units which are advantageously used according to the invention, they are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:
  • silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals Ri - R4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4), m can thereby Assume values of 2 - 200,000.
  • n can thereby Take values from 3/2 to 20.
  • broken values for n Consider that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.
  • cyclomethicone e.g., decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.
  • silicone oils of similar constitution as the compounds described above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • silicone oils of similar constitution as the compounds described above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers, such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)
  • mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are particularly advantageous.
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower C-number alcohols, eg Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can be advantageously selected from the group of silica, aluminum silicates.
  • alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol,
  • emulsions present particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids.
  • hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.
  • hydrogel preparations contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the aforementioned group.
  • the gums include plant or tree juices that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants.
  • gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algins, chondrus, xanthan gum can be selected from this group.
  • derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).
  • polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulphates, starch and starch derivatives.
  • cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.
  • layered silicates are naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as e.g. Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as VEGEGUM®. These may be used as such or in modified form as e.g. Stearylalkonium hectorites.
  • polyacrylates are e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen T 2).
  • polymers e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.
  • emulsions present as emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.
  • nonionic emulsifiers are examples of nonionic emulsifiers.
  • Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives eg glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates
  • alkylphenol polyglycol ethers e.g., Triton X
  • soaps eg sodium stearate
  • amphoteric emulsifiers are amphoteric emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.
  • O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example:
  • R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -CH 2 -COOH and n represents a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol
  • alkyl ether sulfates or the general formula R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -SO 3 -H underlying these sulfates
  • the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are selected particularly advantageously from the group of substances having HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously having HLB values of 14.5-15, 5, provided that the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or higher.
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are:
  • Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isoloureth-12).
  • the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be the sodium laureth-1 l-carboxylate.
  • the alkyl ether sulfate sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can be advantageously used.
  • polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can be advantageously used. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven.
  • polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprate, polyethylene glycol (20). glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.
  • sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
  • W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C atoms, diglycerol saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C Atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C-atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkan
  • the emulsion is in the form of a W / O emulsion
  • W / O emulsifiers polyglyceryl-3 diiosostearate and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate according to the invention is preferred.
  • the emulsion in the form of a W / S emulsion is present in the embodiments of the present invention, it is advantageous according to the invention to choose one or more W / S emulsifiers from the group of the compounds ethoxylated-proxylated alkyl-modified dimethicones and dimethicone copolyols.
  • W / S emulsifiers dimethicone copolyol and cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone is preferred according to the invention.
  • perfumes can be used: dipropylene glycol, methyl dihydrojasmonate, phenethyl alcohol, linalool, linalyl acetate, 2,6-dimethyl-7-octene-2-ol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-Acetonapthone-1, 2,3,4,5 , 6,7,8-octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl, p-butyl-alpha-methyldihydrocinnamic aldehyde, benzyl acetate, 1, 3,4,6,7,8-hexahydro-4,6,6,7,8,8-hexamethylcyclopenta-gamma-2-benzopyran, methyl cedryl ketone, Ethylene brassylate, 4- (4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) -3-cyclohexene-1-carboxyaldehydes, benzyl salicylate, hexyl salicylate
  • Eclipta Prostrata Extract PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Pyrus Malus Water, Trioxaundecanedioic Acid, Amaranthus Extract, Dodecene, Hydrolyzed Cera Alba, Oxothiazolidine Carboxylic Acid, PEG-20 Stearyl Ether, Platanus Occidentalis, Selaginella Tamariscina Extract,
  • Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane Anthemis Nobilis Flower, Cassia Alata, Echium Lycopsis Oil, Eucalyptol, Heptapeptide-6, Humulus Japonicus Flower / Leaf / Star Extract, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Lupinus Luteus Extract, Palmitoyl Lysyl Aminovaleroyl Lysine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
  • pigment mixtures of white pigments for example kaolin, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide
  • inorganic color pigments for example iron oxide pigments, chromium oxides
  • the pigments being coated (coated) or uncoated can Among the color pigments, iron oxides are particularly preferred.
  • the pigments of the invention may be inorganic or organic.
  • White pigments are pigments whose optical effect is mainly based on non-selective light scattering (see also DIN 55944: 2003-11). Of the often chemically very similar fillers, inorganic white pigments differ in particular from their generally higher refractive index and, associated therewith, from their higher scattering power as well as from their application according to DIN 55943: 2001-10.
  • White pigments preferred according to the invention show no absorption in the visible light range, but a high scattering power which results in high hiding power.
  • the scattering power is greater, the greater the difference between the refractive index of the white pigment and that of the surrounding medium.
  • advantageous white pigments are titanium dioxides (refractive indices: 2.55 for anatase and 2.75 for rutile) and zinc oxides (refractive index between 1.95 and 2.1). Particularly preferred is titanium dioxide.
  • the pigment or pigments can also be selected from the group of effect pigments, which of the cosmetic preparation in addition to the pure color an additional property - such.
  • effect pigments are advantageously used according to the invention in addition to one or more white and / or color pigments.
  • the most important group of effect pigments are the luster pigments, which according to DIN 55944: 2003-11 include the metallic effect pigments and the pearlescent pigments.
  • Some special effect pigments can not be assigned to these two groups, eg. As platelet-shaped graphite, platelet-shaped iron oxide and micronized titanium dioxide, wherein micronized titanium dioxide produces no gloss effect, but an angle-dependent light scattering effect.
  • the luster pigments according to DIN 55943: 2001-10 are predominantly platelet-shaped effect pigments. Parallel oriented luster pigments show a characteristic shine.
  • the optical effect of luster pigments is based on the directed reflection on metallic particles (metallic effect pigments), on transparent particles with high refractive index (pearlescent pigments) or on the phenomenon of interference (interference pigments) (DIN 55944: 2003-11).
  • effect pigments examples include Timiron® from Merck, Iriodin® from Merck (pearl and color luster pigments for decorative technical applications), Xirallic® from Merck (color-intensive crystal effect pigments).
  • the preparations according to the invention may advantageously also contain organic color pigments, ie organic dyes which are practically insoluble in the preparation.
  • organic pigments can be classified according to chemical aspects into azo pigments and polycyclic pigments as well as according to color aspects into colored or black pigments.
  • Organic white pigments are of no practical importance.
  • the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains one or more dyes.
  • the dyes can be of both synthetic and natural origin.
  • Titanium dioxide (C.I.77891), Indanthrenblau RS (C.I. 69800) and Krapplack (C.I.58000).
  • These dyes are usually formulated in concentrations of 0.001 to 1% by weight, based on the total mixture.
  • the inventive preparations may also contain repellents.
  • repellent agents belong to the classes of amides, alcohols, esters and
  • a modern repellent active ingredient is, for example, the 1-piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester (INN: icaridin, CAS number: 1 19515-38-7, Elincs number: 423-210-8), the has the following structure:
  • ethyl 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionate also referred to as ethylbutylacetylaminopropionate or Repellent 3535
  • ethylbutylacetylaminopropionate Repellent 3535
  • Active ingredients can also be added to the inventive formulations.
  • active substances examples include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, ⁇ -glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as B. Prunusex Episode, bamboo extract, linden blossom extract and vitamin complexes to understand.
  • containing the preparations according to the invention at least one compound selected from vitamins, allantoin, bisabolol, glyceryl glucose and plant extracts.
  • containing the preparations according to the invention at least one compound selected from tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, urea, ß-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, plant extracts and mixtures thereof.
  • Triglycerol diisostearate 1 0 0.5 0.25 2.0 3.0
  • PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate - 0.5 0.25 - 3.0
  • cyclic silicone oil 12.5 15 22.0 20.0 15.5 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 13.0 5.0 12.0 15.0 hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2 , 0 0.25
  • cyclic silicone oil 12.5 15 8.0 20.0 17.5 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 13.0 5.0 12.0 15.0 hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2 , 0 0.25
  • cyclic silicone oil 12.5 15 25.0 10.0 7.5 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 15.0 5.0 12.0 15.0
  • Glyceryl sterate citrate 1.0 1.5 1, 5 0.5 0.25
  • Cetyl stearyl alcohol 2.5 5 0.5 2.0 1, 5
  • Titanium dioxide 2.5 1, 2 0.15 -
  • Carrageenan (Chondrus Crispus) - - - - - 2
  • Polyquaternium-7 5.0000 5.0000 5.0000 3.0000 5.0000
  • Cocamidopropylbetaine (34%) + 16,200 16,200 16,200 15,200 glycerol 16,2000 0 0 0 0 0

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Abstract

Utilisation d'un ou de plusieurs acides hydroxamiques physiologiquement inoffensifs pour obtenir ou accroître la stabilité de préparations cosmétiques se présentant sous forme d'émulsions huile-dans-eau, eau-dans-huile, eau/huile/eau ou huile/eau/huile, d'hydrodispersions, d'oléodispersions, d'hydrogels ou d'oléogels, pour obtenir ou accroître la stabilité de principes actifs cosmétiques dans des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, pour obtenir ou accroître la stabilité de colorants cosmétiques dans des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques et/ou comme agents chélatants d'ions métalliques bivalents ou polyvalents dans des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques.
PCT/EP2012/075689 2011-12-19 2012-12-17 Utilisation d'acides hydroxamiques pour la stabilisation de préparations cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques Ceased WO2013092448A2 (fr)

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DE201110088931 DE102011088931A1 (de) 2011-12-19 2011-12-19 Verwendung von Hydroxamsäuren zur Stabilisierung kosmetischer und oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen

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Citations (2)

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WO2009070736A1 (fr) 2007-11-29 2009-06-04 Inolex Investment Corporation Conservateurs pour compositions cosmétiques, de toilette et pharmaceutiques

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DE2060764A1 (de) * 1970-12-10 1972-06-22 Henkel & Cie Gmbh Synergistische,antimikrobielle Wirkstoffkombinationen sowie deren Verwendung in antimikrobiellen Mitteln
DE2400919A1 (de) * 1974-01-09 1975-07-17 Eisai Co Ltd Deodorierungsmaterialien
FR2777193B1 (fr) * 1998-04-14 2001-06-08 Coletica Particule a groupement hydroxamique chelatante d'ions metalliques et leur utilisation en cosmetique ou en pharmacie
DE10050155A1 (de) * 2000-10-11 2002-04-18 Beiersdorf Ag Kosemtische und dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Desferrioxamin
DE10145111A1 (de) * 2001-09-13 2003-04-03 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Chitosan zur Stabilisierung kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen
DE10217255A1 (de) * 2002-04-18 2003-11-06 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Phytochelatinen zur Stabilisierung kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen
JP4921351B2 (ja) * 2004-03-26 2012-04-25 ディーエスエム アイピー アセッツ ビー．ブイ． レチノイドと組み合せたｈｄａｃインヒビターを含む組成物
DE102004057858A1 (de) * 2004-10-15 2006-06-29 Henkel Kgaa Kosmetische Zusammensetzungen zur Mund- und Zahnhygiene
EP2441823A1 (fr) * 2010-10-14 2012-04-18 Unilever Plc, A Company Registered In England And Wales under company no. 41424 of Unilever House Compositions de détergent particulaires contenant un tensioactif, du carbonate et de l'hydroxamate

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3314742A1 (de) 1983-04-23 1984-10-25 Degussa Ag, 6000 Frankfurt An der oberflaeche modifizierte natuerliche oxidische oder silikatische fuellstoffe, ein verfahren zur herstellung und deren verwendung
WO2009070736A1 (fr) 2007-11-29 2009-06-04 Inolex Investment Corporation Conservateurs pour compositions cosmétiques, de toilette et pharmaceutiques

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