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WO2013092448A2 - Use of hydroxamic acids for stabilizing cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations - Google Patents

Use of hydroxamic acids for stabilizing cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013092448A2
WO2013092448A2 PCT/EP2012/075689 EP2012075689W WO2013092448A2 WO 2013092448 A2 WO2013092448 A2 WO 2013092448A2 EP 2012075689 W EP2012075689 W EP 2012075689W WO 2013092448 A2 WO2013092448 A2 WO 2013092448A2
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
polyethylene glycol
cosmetic
acid
ether
Prior art date
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Ceased
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PCT/EP2012/075689
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German (de)
French (fr)
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WO2013092448A3 (en
Inventor
Manuela Köhler
Michaela Kohut
Rainer Kröpke
Anke Pilzner
Christian Dingler
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Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Publication of WO2013092448A3 publication Critical patent/WO2013092448A3/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/51Chelating agents
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers

Definitions

  • hydroxamic acids for stabilizing cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the protection of the sensitive skin from irritation and to the use of such active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.
  • the present invention relates to an application which makes it possible to increase the stability of emulsions, gels, aqueous formulations or fat formulations.
  • the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (horny layer), is of particular importance as an important barrier layer, inter alia. for protection against environmental influences and dehydration.
  • the horny layer is constantly worn in contact with the environment and must therefore be renewed continuously.
  • a skin model widely used today in the art understands the stratum corneum as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model).
  • the corneocytes horny cells
  • the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.
  • the epidermal lipids In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.
  • Cosmetics usually contain, in addition to balanced lipid blends and water, water-binding substances.
  • Cosmetic skin care is understood primarily to strengthen or restore the natural function of the skin as a barrier to environmental influences (e.g., dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and to the loss of endogenous substances (e.g., water, natural fats, electrolyte).
  • environmental influences e.g., dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • endogenous substances e.g., water, natural fats, electrolyte
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the daily loss of fat and water loss of the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration capacity is insufficient.
  • skin care products to protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and delay the aging of the skin.
  • Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions, ie metastable two- or multi-phase systems in which the individual phases are in the liquid state.
  • the most common emulsions are O / W and W / O emulsions.
  • Rarer forms of administration are multiple emulsions, ie those which are present in the droplets of the dispersed (or disperse) continuous) phase in turn contain droplets of a further dispersed phase, for example W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.
  • emulsifiers such as any chemical substance, may in individual cases cause allergic or hypersensitivity reactions of the user.
  • emulsifier-free preparations which, for example, have oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, similar to an O / W emulsion.
  • a prerequisite for this may be that the continuous aqueous phase has a gel skeleton which stabilizes the dispersed phase and other circumstances more.
  • Such systems are sometimes called hydrodispersions or oleodispersions, whichever is the disperse and which is the continuous phase.
  • a disadvantage in particular of O / W emulsions is often their lack of stability towards higher electrolyte concentrations, which manifests itself in phase separation. While this may occasionally cause problems with W / O emulsions, it is not nearly as prominent here as in O / W systems. Although this can often be done by appropriate To some extent, choosing the emulsifier system will help, but there are just as many other disadvantages.
  • Complexing agents in particular chelators, form complexes with metal atoms, which in the presence of one or more polybasic complexing agents, ie chelators, represent metallacycles.
  • Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this case, normally stretched compounds are closed by complex formation via a metal atom or ion into rings. The number of bound ligands depends on the coordination number of the central metal. The prerequisite for chelation is that the metal-reactive compound contain two or more atomic groups acting as electron donors.
  • a disadvantage of many chelators is that they are difficult to biodegrade, almost inevitably be registered in the ecological water cycle. By solubilization of precipitated or sediment-bound - and thereby relatively harmless - heavy metal ions, they can in the worst case contribute to their reactivation.
  • a further object of the present invention was therefore to discover solutions to cosmetic or dermatological emulsions, in particular O / W emulsions, which are stable to increased electrolyte concentrations or elevated ionic strengths or heavy metal ions.
  • gels are understood to mean relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems of at least two components, which as a rule consist of a (mostly solid) colloid-divided substance of long-chain molecular groupings (eg gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) as a scaffold former and a liquid dispersant (eg water) exist.
  • the colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickener or gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersion medium, whereby individual colloidal particles can be more or less strongly linked to each other via electrostatic interaction.
  • the dispersant surrounding the network is characterized by electrostatic affinity for the gelling agent, ie, a predominately polar (especially hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersing agent (especially: water), whereas a predominantly nonpolar gelling agent preferably gels non-polar dispersing agent.
  • a predominately polar (especially hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersing agent (especially: water)
  • a predominantly nonpolar gelling agent preferably gels non-polar dispersing agent.
  • lipogels and oleogels from waxes, fats and fatty oils
  • carbogels from paraffin or petrolatum
  • oleogels which are practically anhydrous
  • hydrogels which are virtually free of fat.
  • gels are transparent.
  • gels are usually characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency.
  • surfactant gels are common preparations of the prior art. This refers to systems which, in addition to water, have a high concentration of emulsifiers, typically more than about 25% by weight, based on the total composition. Solubilized in these surfactant gels, technically also called “surfactant gels", oil components, microemulsion gels are obtained, which are also known as "ringing By adding nonionic emulsifiers, for example alkylpolyglycosides, cosmetically elegant microemulsion gels can be obtained.
  • the log P value indicates the logarithmic coefficient of the octanoi / water K 0 w distribution coefficient and is a measure of how the relationship between lipopoly (fat solubility) and hydrophilicity (water solubility) of a substance is. It serves as a model estimation in which phase (oil or water) the substance dissolves or accumulates preferentially.
  • the log P is positive for lipophilic substances and negative for hydrophilic substances
  • a log P value of three means that the active ingredient would be distributed in an octanoi / water mixture in the ratio 1000: 1. So enriched by a factor of 1000 higher in the oil phase. The same applies to substances that have only a very low solubility in water. These substances are - if they are formulated crystal-free - to find predominantly in the lipid phase.
  • Cosmetic and pharmaceutical agents are often, but not always, stable against environmental influences. Thus, numerous instabilities to oxygen - or more generally redox processes - and UV light, but also against heat and other known.
  • drugs that are known to be sensitive to such processes include
  • achieving or increasing the stability means that a corresponding formulation, which has a content of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, exhibits a higher stability than a corresponding formulation without hydroxamic acid.
  • the term "stability" is intended in this context to mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it is an emulsion, a hydrodispersion, an oleodispersion, a hydrogel or an oleogel, a longer time and / or at higher Protected against phase separation is a product without hydroxamic acid.
  • the term “stability” may also mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it contains a dye, this dye is protected for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or at a higher dose of light against chemical decomposition
  • the term “stability” may also mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it contains a perfume component or a cosmetic fragrance component, this drug for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or is protected against chemical decomposition at a higher dose of light than a product without hydroxamic acid.
  • the term "stability" may also mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it contains a cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient, this active ingredient for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or at a higher dose of light against chemical decomposition is protected as a product without hydroxamic acid.
  • the term "stability" may also mean that the product containing one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, when containing polyvalent metal ions, protects the product against chemical degradation for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or at a higher dose of light a product without hydroxamic acid.
  • hydroxamic acids exhibit a beneficial chelating property in cosmetic or dermatological preparations. Therefore, the use according to the invention of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids is also suitable as chelating agents for divalent or polyvalent metal ions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • Octanohydroxamic acid also called caprylohydroxamic acid
  • caprylohydroxamic acid is characterized by the following structure.
  • Preparations according to the invention are advantageously characterized by a content of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 to 3.0 wt .-%, of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, in particular octanohydroxamic acid, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of conventional complexing agents such as those selected from the group ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediamino-triacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1, 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their anions to keep low or to dispense entirely.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • HOEDTA hydroxyethylenediamino-triacetic acid
  • DPTA diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid
  • CDTA 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid
  • hydroxamic acid or the hydroxamic acids in particular the octanohydroxamic acid, to the other constituents at any desired point in time of the preparation.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, antifoaming agents, dyes, coloring pigments, thickeners, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, antifoaming agents, dyes, coloring pigments, thickeners, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers
  • preparations according to the invention may also contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances For example, 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic preparations to provide the hair or the skin against the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for hair.
  • UVB filter substances these may be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble UVB filters according to the invention are, for example:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate,
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate,
  • Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are, for example:
  • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor such as, for example, 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts, and di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the debasing 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1, 4- di (2-oxo-3-boronylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid
  • the list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention should of course not be limiting.
  • UVA filters that are commonly included in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • the amounts used for the UVB combination can be used.
  • cosmetic and dermatological preparations advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (Zr0 2 ), silicon (Si0 2 ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (eg Ce 2 0 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO 2 .
  • inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (Zr0 2 ), silicon (Si0 2 ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (eg Ce 2
  • inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, that is, that they are superficially treated to repel water.
  • This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophobic layer according to methods known per se.
  • hydrophobic surface layer is generated according to a reaction according to n Ti0 2 + m (RO) 3 Si-R '-> n Ti0 2 (surface), where n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used as desired , R and R 'are the desired organic radicals.
  • n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used as desired
  • R and R ' are the desired organic radicals.
  • Advantageous Ti0 2 pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from the company TAYCA, furthermore M 160 from the company Kemira and T 805 from the company Degussa.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention.
  • Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water.
  • hydrophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 " , while the hydrophobic moieties usually represent nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals, surfactants generally being sorted and charged of the hydrophilic part of the molecule, whereby four groups can be distinguished:
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution, they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example is intended to illustrate:
  • Non-ionic surfactants are polyether chains. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • acylglutamates for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
  • acyl peptides for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolysed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
  • sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • Carboxylic acids and derivatives such as
  • carboxylic acids for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc undecylenate,
  • Ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • Ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,
  • Sulfonic acids and salts such as
  • Alkyl sulfonates for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C 12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctylsodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laurethsulfosuccinate, disodium laurylsulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, as well as Sulfuric acid esters, such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA rethsulfat lauryl sulfate, sodium and sodium C 12- 13 pareth,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH.
  • Advantageous are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfine.
  • the cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds having a cationic character, such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to
  • acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulphoneate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • Nonionic surfactants are provided.
  • alkanolamides such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • amine oxides such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide
  • Ethers for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.
  • the surface-active substance can be present in a concentration of between 1 and 95% by weight in the preparations according to the invention, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Preparations according to the invention may also be in the form of cosmetic deodorants and / or antiperspirants.
  • Deodorants should fulfill the following conditions:
  • liquid deodorants for example aerosol sprays, roll-ons and the like
  • solid preparations for example deodorant sticks (sticks), powders, powder sprays, intimate cleaning agents, etc.
  • antiperspirants can be reduced by astringents - predominantly aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (Aluchlorhydrat) - the formation of sweat.
  • the bacterial flora on the skin can be reduced.
  • only the odor causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced.
  • the sweat flow itself is not affected by this, in the ideal case, only the microbial decomposition of the sweat is temporarily stopped.
  • oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, furthermore natural oils, e.g. Castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
  • Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.
  • the oil phase of the emulsions according to the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group consisting of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, Ci2-i5-alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Ci2-i5-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate mixtures of C 2 is-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C 2- 15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
  • silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:
  • linear silicones with several siloxyl units which are advantageously used according to the invention, they are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:
  • silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals Ri - R4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4), m can thereby Assume values of 2 - 200,000.
  • n can thereby Take values from 3/2 to 20.
  • broken values for n Consider that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.
  • cyclomethicone e.g., decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.
  • silicone oils of similar constitution as the compounds described above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • silicone oils of similar constitution as the compounds described above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers, such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)
  • mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are particularly advantageous.
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower C-number alcohols, eg Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can be advantageously selected from the group of silica, aluminum silicates.
  • alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol,
  • emulsions present particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids.
  • hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.
  • hydrogel preparations contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the aforementioned group.
  • the gums include plant or tree juices that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants.
  • gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algins, chondrus, xanthan gum can be selected from this group.
  • derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).
  • polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulphates, starch and starch derivatives.
  • cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.
  • layered silicates are naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as e.g. Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as VEGEGUM®. These may be used as such or in modified form as e.g. Stearylalkonium hectorites.
  • polyacrylates are e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen T 2).
  • polymers e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.
  • emulsions present as emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.
  • nonionic emulsifiers are examples of nonionic emulsifiers.
  • Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives eg glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates
  • alkylphenol polyglycol ethers e.g., Triton X
  • soaps eg sodium stearate
  • amphoteric emulsifiers are amphoteric emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.
  • O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example:
  • R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -CH 2 -COOH and n represents a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol
  • alkyl ether sulfates or the general formula R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -SO 3 -H underlying these sulfates
  • the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are selected particularly advantageously from the group of substances having HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously having HLB values of 14.5-15, 5, provided that the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or higher.
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are:
  • Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isoloureth-12).
  • the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be the sodium laureth-1 l-carboxylate.
  • the alkyl ether sulfate sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can be advantageously used.
  • polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can be advantageously used. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven.
  • polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprate, polyethylene glycol (20). glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.
  • sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
  • W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C atoms, diglycerol saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C Atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C-atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkan
  • the emulsion is in the form of a W / O emulsion
  • W / O emulsifiers polyglyceryl-3 diiosostearate and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate according to the invention is preferred.
  • the emulsion in the form of a W / S emulsion is present in the embodiments of the present invention, it is advantageous according to the invention to choose one or more W / S emulsifiers from the group of the compounds ethoxylated-proxylated alkyl-modified dimethicones and dimethicone copolyols.
  • W / S emulsifiers dimethicone copolyol and cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone is preferred according to the invention.
  • perfumes can be used: dipropylene glycol, methyl dihydrojasmonate, phenethyl alcohol, linalool, linalyl acetate, 2,6-dimethyl-7-octene-2-ol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-Acetonapthone-1, 2,3,4,5 , 6,7,8-octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl, p-butyl-alpha-methyldihydrocinnamic aldehyde, benzyl acetate, 1, 3,4,6,7,8-hexahydro-4,6,6,7,8,8-hexamethylcyclopenta-gamma-2-benzopyran, methyl cedryl ketone, Ethylene brassylate, 4- (4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) -3-cyclohexene-1-carboxyaldehydes, benzyl salicylate, hexyl salicylate
  • Eclipta Prostrata Extract PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Pyrus Malus Water, Trioxaundecanedioic Acid, Amaranthus Extract, Dodecene, Hydrolyzed Cera Alba, Oxothiazolidine Carboxylic Acid, PEG-20 Stearyl Ether, Platanus Occidentalis, Selaginella Tamariscina Extract,
  • Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane Anthemis Nobilis Flower, Cassia Alata, Echium Lycopsis Oil, Eucalyptol, Heptapeptide-6, Humulus Japonicus Flower / Leaf / Star Extract, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Lupinus Luteus Extract, Palmitoyl Lysyl Aminovaleroyl Lysine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
  • pigment mixtures of white pigments for example kaolin, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide
  • inorganic color pigments for example iron oxide pigments, chromium oxides
  • the pigments being coated (coated) or uncoated can Among the color pigments, iron oxides are particularly preferred.
  • the pigments of the invention may be inorganic or organic.
  • White pigments are pigments whose optical effect is mainly based on non-selective light scattering (see also DIN 55944: 2003-11). Of the often chemically very similar fillers, inorganic white pigments differ in particular from their generally higher refractive index and, associated therewith, from their higher scattering power as well as from their application according to DIN 55943: 2001-10.
  • White pigments preferred according to the invention show no absorption in the visible light range, but a high scattering power which results in high hiding power.
  • the scattering power is greater, the greater the difference between the refractive index of the white pigment and that of the surrounding medium.
  • advantageous white pigments are titanium dioxides (refractive indices: 2.55 for anatase and 2.75 for rutile) and zinc oxides (refractive index between 1.95 and 2.1). Particularly preferred is titanium dioxide.
  • the pigment or pigments can also be selected from the group of effect pigments, which of the cosmetic preparation in addition to the pure color an additional property - such.
  • effect pigments are advantageously used according to the invention in addition to one or more white and / or color pigments.
  • the most important group of effect pigments are the luster pigments, which according to DIN 55944: 2003-11 include the metallic effect pigments and the pearlescent pigments.
  • Some special effect pigments can not be assigned to these two groups, eg. As platelet-shaped graphite, platelet-shaped iron oxide and micronized titanium dioxide, wherein micronized titanium dioxide produces no gloss effect, but an angle-dependent light scattering effect.
  • the luster pigments according to DIN 55943: 2001-10 are predominantly platelet-shaped effect pigments. Parallel oriented luster pigments show a characteristic shine.
  • the optical effect of luster pigments is based on the directed reflection on metallic particles (metallic effect pigments), on transparent particles with high refractive index (pearlescent pigments) or on the phenomenon of interference (interference pigments) (DIN 55944: 2003-11).
  • effect pigments examples include Timiron® from Merck, Iriodin® from Merck (pearl and color luster pigments for decorative technical applications), Xirallic® from Merck (color-intensive crystal effect pigments).
  • the preparations according to the invention may advantageously also contain organic color pigments, ie organic dyes which are practically insoluble in the preparation.
  • organic pigments can be classified according to chemical aspects into azo pigments and polycyclic pigments as well as according to color aspects into colored or black pigments.
  • Organic white pigments are of no practical importance.
  • the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains one or more dyes.
  • the dyes can be of both synthetic and natural origin.
  • Titanium dioxide (C.I.77891), Indanthrenblau RS (C.I. 69800) and Krapplack (C.I.58000).
  • These dyes are usually formulated in concentrations of 0.001 to 1% by weight, based on the total mixture.
  • the inventive preparations may also contain repellents.
  • repellent agents belong to the classes of amides, alcohols, esters and
  • a modern repellent active ingredient is, for example, the 1-piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester (INN: icaridin, CAS number: 1 19515-38-7, Elincs number: 423-210-8), the has the following structure:
  • ethyl 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionate also referred to as ethylbutylacetylaminopropionate or Repellent 3535
  • ethylbutylacetylaminopropionate Repellent 3535
  • Active ingredients can also be added to the inventive formulations.
  • active substances examples include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, ⁇ -glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as B. Prunusex Episode, bamboo extract, linden blossom extract and vitamin complexes to understand.
  • containing the preparations according to the invention at least one compound selected from vitamins, allantoin, bisabolol, glyceryl glucose and plant extracts.
  • containing the preparations according to the invention at least one compound selected from tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, urea, ß-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, plant extracts and mixtures thereof.
  • Triglycerol diisostearate 1 0 0.5 0.25 2.0 3.0
  • PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate - 0.5 0.25 - 3.0
  • cyclic silicone oil 12.5 15 22.0 20.0 15.5 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 13.0 5.0 12.0 15.0 hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2 , 0 0.25
  • cyclic silicone oil 12.5 15 8.0 20.0 17.5 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 13.0 5.0 12.0 15.0 hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2 , 0 0.25
  • cyclic silicone oil 12.5 15 25.0 10.0 7.5 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 15.0 5.0 12.0 15.0
  • Glyceryl sterate citrate 1.0 1.5 1, 5 0.5 0.25
  • Cetyl stearyl alcohol 2.5 5 0.5 2.0 1, 5
  • Titanium dioxide 2.5 1, 2 0.15 -
  • Carrageenan (Chondrus Crispus) - - - - - 2
  • Polyquaternium-7 5.0000 5.0000 5.0000 3.0000 5.0000
  • Cocamidopropylbetaine (34%) + 16,200 16,200 16,200 15,200 glycerol 16,2000 0 0 0 0 0

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Abstract

The invention relates to the use of one or more physiologically harmless hydroxamic acids for attaining or increasing the stability of cosmetic preparations in the form of OW, W/O, W/O/W or O/W/O emulsions, hydrodispersions, oleodispersions, hydrogels or oleogels, for attaining or increasing the stability of cosmetic agents in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for attaining or increasing the stability of cosmetic pigments in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, and/or as a chelating agent for divalent or polyvalent metal ions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Description

Beschreibung  description

Verwendung von Hydroxamsäuren zur Stabilisierung kosmetischer und oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen Use of hydroxamic acids for stabilizing cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations

Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische bzw. dermatologische Zubereitungen, enthaltend Wirkstoffe zum Schutze der empfindlichen Haut vor Irritationen sowie die Verwendung solcher Wirkstoffe und Kombinationen solcher Wirkstoffe auf dem Gebiete der kosmetischen und dermatologischen Hautpflege. In einer vorteilhaften Ausführungsform betrifft die vorliegende Erfindung eine Anwendung, welche es erlaubt, die Stabilität von Emulsionen, Gelen, wässrigen Zubereitungen oder Fett-Formulierungen zu steigern. The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the protection of the sensitive skin from irritation and to the use of such active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care. In an advantageous embodiment, the present invention relates to an application which makes it possible to increase the stability of emulsions, gels, aqueous formulations or fat formulations.

Die äußerste Schicht der Epidermis, das Stratum corneum (Hornschicht), ist als wichtige Barriereschicht von besonderer Bedeutung u.a. für den Schutz vor Umwelteinflüssen und Austrocknung. Die Hornschicht wird im Kontakt mit der Umwelt ständig abgenutzt und muss deshalb ununterbrochen erneuert werden. The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (horny layer), is of particular importance as an important barrier layer, inter alia. for protection against environmental influences and dehydration. The horny layer is constantly worn in contact with the environment and must therefore be renewed continuously.

Ein heute in der Fachwelt weitverbreitetes Hautmodell faßt das Stratum corneum als Zwei- Komponenten-System, ähnlich einer Ziegelsteinmauer (Ziegelstein-Mörtel-Modell), auf. In diesem Modell entsprechen die Korneozyten (Hornzellen) den Ziegelsteinen, die kompliziert zusammengesetzte Lipidmembran in den Interzellularräumen entspricht dem Mörtel. A skin model widely used today in the art understands the stratum corneum as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model). In this model, the corneocytes (horny cells) correspond to the bricks, the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.

Außer ihrer Barrierewirkung gegen externe chemische und physikalische Einflüsse tragen die epidermalen Lipide auch zum Zusammenhalt der Hornschicht bei und haben Einfluß auf die Hautglätte. Im Gegensatz zu den Talgdrüsenlipiden, die keinen geschlossenen Film auf der Haut ausbilden, sind die epidermalen Lipide über die gesamte Hornschicht verteilt. In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.

Das äußerst komplexe Zusammenwirken der feuchtigkeitsbindenden Substanzen und der Lipide der oberen Hautschichten ist für die Regulation der Hautfeuchte sehr wichtig. Daher enthalten Kosmetika in der Regel, neben ausgewogenen Lipidabmischungen und Wasser, wasserbindende Substanzen. The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the lipids of the upper skin layers is very important for the regulation of skin moisture. Therefore Cosmetics usually contain, in addition to balanced lipid blends and water, water-binding substances.

Neben der chemischen Zusammensetzung ist jedoch auch das physikalische Verhalten dieser Substanzen von Bedeutung. Daher ist die Entwicklung von sehr gut bioverträglichen Emulgatoren bzw. Tensiden mit flüssigkristallinen Eigenschaften wünschenswert. Damit formulierte Produkte unterstützen die flüssigkristalline Organisation der Interzellularlipide des Stratum Corneums und verbessern so die Barriereeigenschaften der Hornschicht. Besonders vorteilhaft ist es, wenn deren Molekülbestandteile aus natürlicherweise in der Epidermis vorkommenden Substanzen bestehen. In addition to the chemical composition, however, the physical behavior of these substances is important. Therefore, the development of highly biocompatible emulsifiers or surfactants with liquid crystalline properties is desirable. Products formulated in this way support the liquid-crystalline organization of the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and thus improve the barrier properties of the horny layer. It is particularly advantageous if their molecular constituents consist of substances naturally occurring in the epidermis.

Unter kosmetischer Hautpflege ist in erster Linie zu verstehen, daß die natürliche Funktion der Haut als Barriere gegen Umwelteinflüsse (z.B. Schmutz, Chemikalien, Mikroorganismen) und gegen den Verlust von körpereigenen Stoffen (z.B. Wasser, natürliche Fette, Elektrolyt^) gestärkt oder wiederhergestellt wird. Cosmetic skin care is understood primarily to strengthen or restore the natural function of the skin as a barrier to environmental influences (e.g., dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and to the loss of endogenous substances (e.g., water, natural fats, electrolyte).

Wird diese Funktion gestört, kann es zu verstärkter Resorption toxischer oder allergener Stoffe oder zum Befall von Mikroorganismen und als Folge zu toxischen oder allergischen Hautreaktionen kommen. If this function is disturbed, it may lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or the infestation of microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

Ziel der Hautpflege ist es ferner, den durch tägliches Waschen verursachten Fett- und Wasserverlust der Haut auszugleichen. Dies ist gerade dann wichtig, wenn das natürliche Regenerationsvermögen nicht ausreicht. Außerdem sollen Hautpflegeprodukte vor Umwelteinflüssen, insbesondere vor Sonne und Wind, schützen und die Hautalterung verzögern. The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the daily loss of fat and water loss of the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration capacity is insufficient. In addition, skin care products to protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and delay the aging of the skin.

Medizinische topische Zusammensetzungen enthalten in der Regel ein oder mehrere Medikamente in wirksamer Konzentration. Der Einfachheit halber wird zur sauberen Unterscheidung zwischen kosmetischer und medizinischer Anwendung und entsprechenden Produkten auf die gesetzlichen Bestimmungen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland verwiesen (z.B. Kosmetikverordnung, Lebensmittel- und Arzneimittelgesetz). Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (for example, Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).

Übliche kosmetische Darreichungsformen sind Emulsionen, also metastabile Zwei- oder Mehrphasensysteme bei welchen die einzelnen Phasen im flüssigen Zustande vorliegen. Die gängigsten Emulsionen sind O/W- und W/O-Emulsionen. Seltenere Darreichungsformen sind multiple Emulsionen, also solche, welche in den Tröpfchen der dispergierten (oder dis- kontinuierlichen) Phase ihrerseits Tröpfchen einer weiteren dispergierten Phase enthalten, z.B. W/O/W-Emulsionen und O/W/O-Emulsionen. Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions, ie metastable two- or multi-phase systems in which the individual phases are in the liquid state. The most common emulsions are O / W and W / O emulsions. Rarer forms of administration are multiple emulsions, ie those which are present in the droplets of the dispersed (or disperse) continuous) phase in turn contain droplets of a further dispersed phase, for example W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

Um die Metastabilität von Emulsionen gewährleisten zu können, sind in der Regel grenzflächenaktive Substanzen, also Emulgatoren, nötig. In order to ensure the metastability of emulsions, surface-active substances, ie emulsifiers, are generally required.

An sich ist die Verwendung der üblichen kosmetischen Emulgatoren völlig unbedenklich. Dennoch können Emulgatoren, wie letztlich jede chemische Substanz, im Einzelfalle allergische oder auf Überempfindlichkeit des Anwenders beruhende Reaktionen hervorrufen. In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers is completely harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, such as any chemical substance, may in individual cases cause allergic or hypersensitivity reactions of the user.

So ist bekannt, daß bei manchen besonders empfindlichen Personen bestimmte Lichtdermatosen durch gewisse Emulgatoren und gleichzeitige Einwirkung von Sonnenlicht ausgelöst werden. It is known, for example, that in certain particularly sensitive persons certain photodermatoses are triggered by certain emulsifiers and the simultaneous action of sunlight.

Es ist möglich, emulgatorfreie Zubereitungen herzustellen, welche beispielsweise in einer wässrigen Phase dispergierte Öltröpfchen, ähnlich einer O/W-Emulsion, aufweisen. Voraussetzung dafür kann sein, dass die kontinuierliche wässrige Phase ein die dispergierte Phase stabilisierendes Gelgerüst aufweist und andere Umstände mehr. Solche Systeme werden gelegentlich Hydrodispersionen oder Oleodispersionen genannt, je nachdem, welches die disperse und welches die kontinuierliche Phase darstellt. It is possible to produce emulsifier-free preparations which, for example, have oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, similar to an O / W emulsion. A prerequisite for this may be that the continuous aqueous phase has a gel skeleton which stabilizes the dispersed phase and other circumstances more. Such systems are sometimes called hydrodispersions or oleodispersions, whichever is the disperse and which is the continuous phase.

Es ist für die kosmetische Galenik aber weder nötig noch möglich, auf Emulgatoren ganz zu verzichten, zumal eine gewisse Auswahl an besonders milden Emulgatoren existiert. Allerdings besteht ein Mangel des Standes der Technik an einer befriedigend großen Vielfalt solcher Emulgatoren, welche dann auch das Anwendungsspektrum entsprechend milder und hautverträglicher kosmetischer Zubereitungen deutlich verbreitern würde. However, it is neither necessary nor possible to dispense with emulsifiers for cosmetic galenics, especially since there is a certain selection of particularly mild emulsifiers. However, there is a lack of the state of the art in a satisfactorily large variety of such emulsifiers, which would then significantly widen the range of applications according to mild and skin-friendly cosmetic preparations.

So war eine Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung, kosmetische bzw. dermatologische Zubereitungen mit hervorragenden hautpflegenden Eigenschaften zur Verfügung zu stellen. Thus, it was an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic or dermatological preparations with outstanding skin-care properties.

Ein Nachteil insbesondere von O/W-Emulsionen ist oft deren mangelnde Stabilität gegenüber höheren Elektrolytkonzentrationen, was sich in Phasentrennung äußert. Dies kann zwar auch bei W/O-Emulsionen gelegentlich zu Problemen führen, tritt dort aber bei weitem nicht so in den Vordergrund wie bei O/W-Systemen. Zwar läßt sich diesen oft durch geeignete Wahl des Emulgatorsystems in gewissem Maße Abhilfe schaffen, es treten dann aber ebensooft andere Nachteile auf. A disadvantage in particular of O / W emulsions is often their lack of stability towards higher electrolyte concentrations, which manifests itself in phase separation. While this may occasionally cause problems with W / O emulsions, it is not nearly as prominent here as in O / W systems. Although this can often be done by appropriate To some extent, choosing the emulsifier system will help, but there are just as many other disadvantages.

Es ist andererseits oft wünschenswert, bestimmte Elektrolyt^ einzusetzen, um deren sonstige physikalische, chemische bzw. physiologische Eigenschaften nutzen zu können. On the other hand, it is often desirable to use certain electrolyte in order to utilize their other physical, chemical or physiological properties.

Ferner setzen erhöhte Schwermetallkonzentrationen - herstellungsbedingt durch Fertigung in stählernen Behältern, Rührwerken, Leitungen usw. - die Stabilität kosmetischer Zubereitungen erheblich herab. Durch die Komplexierung von störenden Metallen wie Mn, Fe, Cu und anderer können beispielsweise unerwünschte chemische Reaktionen in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen verhindert werden. Furthermore, increased heavy metal concentrations - production-related due to production in steel containers, agitators, lines, etc. - significantly reduce the stability of cosmetic preparations. By complexing of interfering metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others, for example, unwanted chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations can be prevented.

Komplexbildner, insbesondere Chelatoren, bilden mit Metallatomen Komplexe, welche bei Vorliegen eines oder mehrerer mehrbasiger Komplexbildner, also Chelatoren, Metallacyclen darstellen. Chelate stellen Verbindungen dar, in denen ein einzelner Ligand mehr als eine Koordinationsstelle an einem Zentralatom besetzt. In diesem Falle werden also normalerweise gestreckte Verbindungen durch Komplexbildung über ein Metall-Atom od. -Ion zu Ringen geschlossen. Die Zahl der gebundenen Liganden hängt von der Koordinationszahl des zentralen Metalls ab. Voraussetzung für die Chelatbildung ist, daß die mit dem Metall reagierende Verbindung zwei oder mehr Atomgruppierungen enthält, die als Elektronendonatoren wirken. Complexing agents, in particular chelators, form complexes with metal atoms, which in the presence of one or more polybasic complexing agents, ie chelators, represent metallacycles. Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this case, normally stretched compounds are closed by complex formation via a metal atom or ion into rings. The number of bound ligands depends on the coordination number of the central metal. The prerequisite for chelation is that the metal-reactive compound contain two or more atomic groups acting as electron donors.

Nachteilig an vielen Chelatoren ist, daß sie biologisch nur schwer abbaubar sind, nahezu zwangsläufig in den ökologischen Wasserkreislauf eingetragen werden. Durch Solubilisie- rung ausgefällter bzw. im Sediment gebundener - und dadurch an sich relativ unschädlicher - Schwermetallionen können sie im schlimmsten Falle zu deren Reaktivierung beitragen. A disadvantage of many chelators is that they are difficult to biodegrade, almost inevitably be registered in the ecological water cycle. By solubilization of precipitated or sediment-bound - and thereby relatively harmless - heavy metal ions, they can in the worst case contribute to their reactivation.

Eine weitere Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es also, Lösungswege zu kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Emulsionen, insbesondere O/W-Emulsionen, aufzudecken, welche gegenüber erhöhten Elektrolytkonzentrationen bzw. erhöhten lonenstärken bzw. Schwermetallionen stabil sind. A further object of the present invention was therefore to discover solutions to cosmetic or dermatological emulsions, in particular O / W emulsions, which are stable to increased electrolyte concentrations or elevated ionic strengths or heavy metal ions.

Übliche, und sich gerade in neuerer Zeit immer weiter verbreitende kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungsformen sind Gele. Im technischen Sinne werden unter Gelen verstanden: Relativ formbeständige, leicht verformbare disperse Systeme aus zumindest zwei Komponenten, welche in der Regel aus einem - meist festen - kolloid zerteilten Stoff aus langkettigen Molekülgruppierungen (z.B. Gelatine, Kieselsäure, Polysaccharide) als Gerüstbildner und einem flüssigen Dispersionsmittel (z.B. Wasser) bestehen. Der kolloidal zerteilte Stoff wird oft als Verdickungs- oder Geliermittel bezeichnet. Er bildet ein räumliches Netzwerk im Dispersionsmittel, wobei einzelne kolloidal vorliegende Partikel über elektrostatische Wechselwirkung miteinander mehr oder weniger fest verknüpft sein können. Das Dispersionsmittel, welches das Netzwerk umgibt, zeichnet sich durch elektrostatische Affinität zum Geliermittel aus, d.h., ein vorwiegend polares (insbesondere: hydrophiles) Geliermittel geliert vorzugsweise ein polares Dispersionsmittel (insbesondere: Wasser), wohingegen ein vorwiegend unpolares Geliermittel vorzugsweise unpolare Dispersionsmittel geliert. Common, and especially in recent times increasingly widespread cosmetic and dermatological formulations are gels. In the technical sense, gels are understood to mean relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems of at least two components, which as a rule consist of a (mostly solid) colloid-divided substance of long-chain molecular groupings (eg gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) as a scaffold former and a liquid dispersant (eg water) exist. The colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickener or gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersion medium, whereby individual colloidal particles can be more or less strongly linked to each other via electrostatic interaction. The dispersant surrounding the network is characterized by electrostatic affinity for the gelling agent, ie, a predominately polar (especially hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersing agent (especially: water), whereas a predominantly nonpolar gelling agent preferably gels non-polar dispersing agent.

Starke elektrostatische Wechselwirkungen, welche beispielsweise in Wasserstoffbrückenbindungen zwischen Geliermittel und Dispersionsmittel, aber auch zwischen Dispersionsmittelmolekülen untereinander verwirklicht sind, können zu starker Vernetzung auch des Dispersionsmittels führen. Hydrogele können zu fast 100 % aus Wasser bestehen (neben beispielsweise ca. 0,2 - 1 ,0 % eines Geliermittels) und dabei durchaus feste Konsistenz besitzen. Der Wasseranteil liegt dabei in eisähnlichen Strukturelementen vor, so daß Gele daher ihrer Namensherkunft [aus lat.„gelatum" =„Gefrorenes" über den alchimistischen Ausdruck„gelatina" (16. Jhdt.) für nhdt.„Gelatine"] durchaus gerecht werden. Strong electrostatic interactions, which are realized, for example, in hydrogen bonds between gelling agent and dispersant, but also between each other among dispersant molecules, can lead to strong crosslinking of the dispersant. Hydrogels can consist of almost 100% water (besides, for example, about 0.2-1.0% of a gelling agent) and have a very firm consistency. The water content is present in ice-like structural elements, so that gels therefore their name origin [from Latin "gelatum" = "Frozen" on the alchemical expression "gelatina" (16th century) for nhdt "gelatin"] quite well.

In der kosmetischen und pharmazeutischen Galenik sind ferner auch Lipogele und Oleogele (aus Wachsen, Fetten und fetten ölen) sowie Carbogele (aus Paraffin oder Petrolatum) geläufig. In der Praxis unterscheidet man Oleogele, welche praktisch wasserfrei vorliegen, Hydrogele, welche praktisch fettfrei sind. Meistens sind Gele durchsichtig. In der kosmetischen bzw. pharmazeutischen Galenik zeichnen sich Gele in aller Regel durch halbfeste, oft fließfähige Konsistenz aus. In cosmetic and pharmaceutical galenics, lipogels and oleogels (from waxes, fats and fatty oils) and carbogels (from paraffin or petrolatum) are also familiar. In practice, one differentiates between oleogels, which are practically anhydrous, hydrogels, which are virtually free of fat. Mostly gels are transparent. In cosmetic or pharmaceutical galenics gels are usually characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency.

Ferner sind sogenannte Tensidgele gebräuchliche Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik. Darunter versteht man Systeme, die neben Wasser eine hohe Konzentration an Emulgatoren aufweisen, typischerweise mehr als ca. 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung. Solubilisiert man in diese Tensidgele, fachsprachlich auch „Surfactant gels" genannt, Olkomponenten, werden Mikroemulsionsgele erhalten, welche auch als „ringing gels" bezeichnet werden. Durch Zusatz von nichtionischen Emulgatoren, beispielsweise Alkylpolyglycosiden, lassen sich kosmetisch elegantere Mikroemulsionsgele erhalten. Furthermore, so-called surfactant gels are common preparations of the prior art. This refers to systems which, in addition to water, have a high concentration of emulsifiers, typically more than about 25% by weight, based on the total composition. Solubilized in these surfactant gels, technically also called "surfactant gels", oil components, microemulsion gels are obtained, which are also known as "ringing By adding nonionic emulsifiers, for example alkylpolyglycosides, cosmetically elegant microemulsion gels can be obtained.

Zahlreiche kosmetische und dermatologische Wirkstoffe sind bekannt, darunter wasserlösliche - die sich demzufolge vorrangig in der Wasserphase einer Emulsion aufhalten - und öllösliche - die sich demzufolge vorrangig in der Ölphase einer Emulsion aufhalten. Numerous cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients are known, including water-soluble - which are therefore primarily in the water phase of an emulsion - and oil-soluble - which are therefore primarily in the oil phase of an emulsion.

Der log P Wert gibt den logarithmischen Koeffizienten des Verteilungskoeffizienten Octanoi/Wasser K0w an und ist ein Maß dafür, wie das Verhältnis zwischen Lipopilie (Fettlöslichkeit) und Hydrophilie (Wasserlöslichkeit) einer Substanz ist. Er dient als Modellabschätzung, in welcher Phase (öl oder Wasser) sich die Substanz bevorzugt löst bzw. anreichert. The log P value indicates the logarithmic coefficient of the octanoi / water K 0 w distribution coefficient and is a measure of how the relationship between lipopoly (fat solubility) and hydrophilicity (water solubility) of a substance is. It serves as a model estimation in which phase (oil or water) the substance dissolves or accumulates preferentially.

Entsprechend ist der log P positiv für lipohile Substanzen und negativ für hydrophile Substanzen Accordingly, the log P is positive for lipophilic substances and negative for hydrophilic substances

So bedeutet ein log P-Wert von drei, dass sich der Wirkstoff in einer Octanoi/Wasser Mischung im Verhältis 1000:1 verteilen würde. Also um den Faktor 1000 höher angereichert in der ölphase. Gleichs gilt für Substanzen, die nur eine sehr geringe Wasserlöslichkeit besitzen. Auch diese Substanzen sind - wenn sie kristallfrei formuliert werden - zum überwiegenden Teil in der Lipidphase zu finden. Thus, a log P value of three means that the active ingredient would be distributed in an octanoi / water mixture in the ratio 1000: 1. So enriched by a factor of 1000 higher in the oil phase. The same applies to substances that have only a very low solubility in water. These substances are - if they are formulated crystal-free - to find predominantly in the lipid phase.

Als Wirkstoffe, die sich zum überwiegenden Teil in der Ölphase aufhalten, werden im Rahmen dieser Anmeldung Substanzen verstanden, die As active substances, which are predominantly in the oil phase, are understood in the context of this application substances that

a) eine log P-Wert > 2 haben oder  a) have a log P value> 2 or

b) eine Wasserlöslichkeit < 2.5g/L besitzen.  b) have a water solubility <2.5 g / L.

Bei Pflanzenextrakten bedeutet dass, dass 0,25%ige Lösungen nicht klar gelöst werden können.  In plant extracts, this means that 0.25% solutions can not be solved clearly.

Kosmetische und pharmazeutische Wirkstoffe sind oft, aber beileibe nicht immer, gegen Umwelteinflüsse stabil. So sind zahlreiche Instabilitäten gegenüber Sauerstoff - bzw. ganz allgemein Redoxprozesse - und UV-Licht, aber auch gegen Wärme und Anderes bekannt. Zu den Wirkstoffen, die bekanntermaßen empfindlich gegenüber derlei Prozessen sind, zählen Cosmetic and pharmaceutical agents are often, but not always, stable against environmental influences. Thus, numerous instabilities to oxygen - or more generally redox processes - and UV light, but also against heat and other known. Among the drugs that are known to be sensitive to such processes include

Es hat sich überraschend gezeigt, und darin liegt die Lösung dieser Aufgaben, daß die Verwendung einer oder mehrerer physiologisch unbedenklicher Hydroxamsäuren zum Erzielen oder Steigern der Stabilität kosmetischer Zubereitungen welche in Form von OW-, W/O, W/O/W-, bzw. O/W/O-Emulsionen, Hydrodispersionen, Oleodispersionen, Hydrogelen oder Oleogelen vorliegen, den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen. It has surprisingly been found, and therein lies the solution of these objects, that the use of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids for achieving or increasing the stability of cosmetic preparations which in the form of OW, W / O, W / O / W, or O / W / O emulsions, hydrodispersions, oleodispersions, hydrogels or oleogels are available to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art.

Der Begriff „Erzielen oder Steigern der Stabilität" bedeutet, daß eine entsprechende Rezeptur, die sich durch einen Gehalt an einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren aufweist, eine höhere Stabilität an den Tag legt, als eine entsprechende Rezeptur ohne Hydroxamsäure. The term "achieving or increasing the stability" means that a corresponding formulation, which has a content of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, exhibits a higher stability than a corresponding formulation without hydroxamic acid.

Dabei wird verglichen eine Rezeptur, die sich durch einen Gehalt an einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren aufweist, mit einer solchen, bei der der Gewichtsanteil an einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren durch einen entsprechenden Gewichtsanteil an Wasser oder der Hauptölkomponente der Zubereitung ersetzt worden ist. In this case, compared to a formulation which has a content of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, with one in which the proportion by weight of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids has been replaced by a corresponding weight fraction of water or the main oil component of the preparation.

Der Begriff„Stabilität" soll in diesem Zusammenhange bedeuten, daß das Produkt mit einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren, wenn es sich um eine Emulsion, eine Hydrodispersion, eine Oleodispersion, ein Hydrogel oder ein Oleogel handelt, eine längere Zeit und/oder bei höheren Temperaturen gegen Phasentrennung geschützt ist als ein Produkt ohne Hydroxamsäure. The term "stability" is intended in this context to mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it is an emulsion, a hydrodispersion, an oleodispersion, a hydrogel or an oleogel, a longer time and / or at higher Protected against phase separation is a product without hydroxamic acid.

Der Begriff „Stabilität" kann ebenfalls bedeuten, daß das Produkt mit einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren, wenn es einen Farbstoff enthält, dieser Farbstoff eine längere Zeit und/oder bei höheren Temperaturen und/oder bei einer höhere Lichtdosis gegen chemische Zersetzung geschützt ist als ein Produkt ohne Hydroxamsäure. Der Begriff „Stabilität" kann ebenfalls bedeuten, daß das Produkt mit einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren, wenn es einen Parfumbestandteil bzw. eine kosmetische Duftkomponente enthält, dieser Wirkstoff eine längere Zeit und/oder bei höheren Temperaturen und/oder bei einer höhere Lichtdosis gegen chemische Zersetzung geschützt ist als ein Produkt ohne Hydroxamsäure. Der Begriff „Stabilität" kann ebenfalls bedeuten, daß das Produkt mit einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren, wenn es einen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Wirkstoff enthält, dieser Wirkstoff eine längere Zeit und/oder bei höheren Temperaturen und/oder bei einer höhere Lichtdosis gegen chemische Zersetzung geschützt ist als ein Produkt ohne Hydroxamsäure. The term "stability" may also mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it contains a dye, this dye is protected for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or at a higher dose of light against chemical decomposition The term "stability" may also mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it contains a perfume component or a cosmetic fragrance component, this drug for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or is protected against chemical decomposition at a higher dose of light than a product without hydroxamic acid. The term "stability" may also mean that the product with one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, if it contains a cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient, this active ingredient for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or at a higher dose of light against chemical decomposition is protected as a product without hydroxamic acid.

Der Begriff „Stabilität" kann ebenfalls bedeuten, daß das Produkt mit einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren, wenn es mehrwertige Metallionen enthält, das Produkt eine längere Zeit und/oder bei höheren Temperaturen und/oder bei einer höhere Lichtdosis gegen chemische Zersetzung geschützt ist als ein Produkt ohne Hydroxamsäure. The term "stability" may also mean that the product containing one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, when containing polyvalent metal ions, protects the product against chemical degradation for a longer time and / or at higher temperatures and / or at a higher dose of light a product without hydroxamic acid.

Es wird vermutet, daß die Hydroxamsäuren in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen eine vorteilhafte Chelatoreigenschaft entfaltet. Erfindungsgemäß ist daher auch die Verwendung an einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren als Chelatbildner für zwei- oder mehrwertige Metallionen in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen. It is believed that the hydroxamic acids exhibit a beneficial chelating property in cosmetic or dermatological preparations. Therefore, the use according to the invention of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids is also suitable as chelating agents for divalent or polyvalent metal ions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Es war für den Fachmann ferner nicht vorauszusehen gewesen, daß die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen höhere Stabilität aufweisen und sich durch bessere Bioverträglichkeit auszeichnen würden als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik. Furthermore, it was not foreseeable for the skilled person that the preparations according to the invention would have higher stability and would be distinguished by better biocompatibility than the preparations of the prior art.

Octanohydroxamsäure, auch Caprylohydroxamsäure genannt, ist durch folgende Struktur gekennzeichnet. Octanohydroxamic acid, also called caprylohydroxamic acid, is characterized by the following structure.

o

Figure imgf000009_0001
O
Figure imgf000009_0001

OH OH

Sie ist ein bekannter Wirkstoff zur Konservierung kosmetischer Zubereitungen (z.B. WO 2009/070736 A1 ). Vorteilhafte Verkörperung der vorliegenden Erfindung liegt vor, wenn als Hydroxamsäure die Octanohydroxamsäure gewählt wird. It is a known active ingredient for the preservation of cosmetic preparations (eg WO 2009/070736 A1). Advantageous embodiment of the present invention is when the octanohydroxamic acid is chosen as the hydroxamic acid.

Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung sind vorteilhaft durch einen Gehalt von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,05 - 3,0 Gew.-%, an einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren, insbesondere die Octanohydroxamsäure, gekennzeichnet, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung. Preparations according to the invention are advantageously characterized by a content of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 to 3.0 wt .-%, of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids, in particular octanohydroxamic acid, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

Es ist besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, den Gehalt an üblichen Komplexbildnern, etwa solchen gewählt aus der Gruppe Ethylendiamintetraessigsäure (EDTA) und deren Anionen, Nitrilotriessigsäure (NTA) und deren Anionen, Hydroxyethylendi- aminotriessigsäure (HOEDTA) und deren Anionen, Diethylenaminopentaessigsäure (DPTA) und deren Anionen, trans-1 ,2-Diaminocyclohexantetraessigsäure (CDTA) und deren Anionen gering zu halten bzw. auf diese ganz zu verzichten. Jedenfalls sollte ein Gehalt von ca. 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zubereitungen, an solchen Komplexbildnern bevorzugt nicht überschritten werden. It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the content of conventional complexing agents, such as those selected from the group ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediamino-triacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid ( DPTA) and their anions, trans-1, 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their anions to keep low or to dispense entirely. In any case, a content of about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparations, of such complexing agents should preferably not be exceeded.

Die Herstellung von Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung geschieht nach den üblichen, dem Fachmanne geläufigen Regeln. The preparation of preparations according to the invention is carried out according to the usual rules familiar to the person skilled in the art.

Es ist möglich und vorteilhaft, die Hydroxamsäure oder die Hydroxamsäuren, insbesondere die Octanohydroxamsäure, zu jedem beliebigen Zeitpunkte der Herstellung den übrigen Bestandteilen zuzugeben. It is possible and advantageous to add the hydroxamic acid or the hydroxamic acids, in particular the octanohydroxamic acid, to the other constituents at any desired point in time of the preparation.

Die kosmetischen Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, desodorierend wirkende Substanzen, Antitranspirantien, Insektenre- pellentien, Vitamine, Mittel zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente mit färbender Wirkung, Verdickungsmittel, weichmachende Substanzen, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, antifoaming agents, dyes, coloring pigments, thickeners, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Vorteilhaft können Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung außerdem Substanzen enthalten, die UV-Strahlung im UVB-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen z.B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 ,0 bis 6,0 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die das Haar bzw. die Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Sonnenschutzmittel fürs Haar dienen. Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may also contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances For example, 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic preparations to provide the hair or the skin against the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for hair.

Enthalten die Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung UVB-Filtersubstanzen, können diese öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte öllösliche UVB-Filter sind z.B.: If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, these may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageously oil-soluble UVB filters according to the invention are, for example:

3- Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher;  3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

4- Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;  4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxy- zimtsäureisopentylester;  Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4- isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,  Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate,

Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon; Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethyl- hexy l)ester,  Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate,

2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1 ,3,5-triazin.  2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

Vorteilhafte wasserlösliche UVB-Filter sind z.B.: Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are, for example:

Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;  Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;

Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxyben- zophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;  Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornyliden- methyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze sowie das 1 ,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze (die entprehenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), auch als Benzol-1 ,4-di(2-oxo-3-bor- nylidenmethyl-10-Sulfonsäure bezeichnet Die Liste der genannten UVB-Filter, die gemäß der Erfindung verwendet werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein. Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as, for example, 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts, and di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the debasing 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1, 4- di (2-oxo-3-boronylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid The list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention should of course not be limiting.

Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, UVA-Filter einzusetzen, die üblicherweise in kosmetischen Zubereitungen enthalten sind. Bei diesen Substanzen handelt es sich vorzugsweise um Derivate des Dibenzoylmethans, insbesondere um 1-(4'-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)- propan-1 ,3-dion und um 1-Phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propan-1 ,3-dion. Es können die für die UVB-Kombination verwendeten Mengen eingesetzt werden. It may also be advantageous to use UVA filters that are commonly included in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The amounts used for the UVB combination can be used.

Erfindungsgemäß enthalten kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen vorteilhaft außerdem anorganische Pigmente auf Basis von Metalloxiden und/oder anderen in Wasser schwerlöslichen oder unlöslichen Metallverbindungen, insbesondere der Oxide des Titans (Ti02), Zinks (ZnO), Eisens (z.B. Fe203), Zirkoniums (Zr02), Siliciums (Si02), Mangans (z.B. MnO), Aluminiums (Al203), Cers (z.B. Ce203), Mischoxiden der entsprechenden Metalle sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Oxiden. Besonders bevorzugt handelt es sich um Pigmente auf der Basis von Ti02. According to the invention, cosmetic and dermatological preparations advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (Zr0 2 ), silicon (Si0 2 ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (eg Ce 2 0 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO 2 .

Es ist besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenngleich nicht zwingend, wenn die anorganischen Pigmente in hydrophober Form vorliegen, d.h., daß sie oberflächlich wasserabweisend behandelt sind. Diese Oberflächenbehandlung kann darin bestehen, daß die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophoben Schicht versehen werden. It is particularly advantageous within the meaning of the present invention, although not mandatory, when the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, that is, that they are superficially treated to repel water. This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophobic layer according to methods known per se.

Eines solcher Verfahren besteht beispielsweise darin, daß die hydrophobe Oberflächenschicht nach einer Rektion gemäß n Ti02 + m (RO)3 Si-R' -> n Ti02 (oberfl.) erzeugt wird, n und m sind dabei nach Belieben einzusetzende stöchiometrische Parameter, R und R' die gewünschten organischen Reste. Beispielsweise in Analogie zu DE-OS 33 14 742 dargestellte hydrophobisierte Pigmente sind von Vorteil. One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer is generated according to a reaction according to n Ti0 2 + m (RO) 3 Si-R '-> n Ti0 2 (surface), where n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used as desired , R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 illustrated hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.

Vorteilhafte Ti02-Pigmente sind beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen MT 100 T von der Firma TAYCA, ferner M 160 von der Firma Kemira sowie T 805 von der Firma Degussa erhältlich. Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können, zumal wenn kristalline oder mikrokristalline Festkörper, beispielsweise anorganische Mikropigmente in die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen eingearbeitet werden sollen, auch anionische, nichtionische und/oder amphotere Tenside enthalten. Tenside sind amphiphile Stoffe, die organische, unpolare Substanzen in Wasser lösen können. Advantageous Ti0 2 pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from the company TAYCA, furthermore M 160 from the company Kemira and T 805 from the company Degussa. Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water.

Bei den hydrophilen Anteilen eines Tensidmoleküls handelt es sich meist um polare funktionelle Gruppen, beispielweise -COO", -OS03 2", -S03 ", während die hydrophoben Teile in der Regel unpolare Kohlenwasserstoffreste darstellen. Tenside werden im allgemeinen nach Art und Ladung des hydrophilen Molekülteils klassifiziert. Hierbei können vier Gruppen unterschieden werden: The hydrophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 " , while the hydrophobic moieties usually represent nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals, surfactants generally being sorted and charged of the hydrophilic part of the molecule, whereby four groups can be distinguished:

• anionische Tenside, Anionic surfactants,

• kationische Tenside,  Cationic surfactants,

• amphotere Tenside und  • amphoteric surfactants and

• nichtionische Tenside.  • nonionic surfactants.

Anionische Tenside weisen als funktionelle Gruppen in der Regel Carboxylat-, Sulfat- oder Sulfonatgruppen auf. In wässriger Lösung bilden sie im sauren oder neutralen Milieu negativ geladene organische Ionen. Kationische Tenside sind beinahe ausschließlich durch das Vorhandensein einer quaternären Ammoniumgruppe gekennzeichnet. In wässriger Lösung bilden sie im sauren oder neutralen Milieu positiv geladene organische Ionen. Amphotere Tenside enthalten sowohl anionische als auch kationische Gruppen und verhalten sich demnach in wässriger Lösung je nach pH-Wert wie anionische oder kationische Tenside. Im stark sauren Milieu besitzen sie eine positive und im alkalischen Milieu eine negative Ladung. Im neutralen pH-Bereich hingegen sind sie zwitterionisch, wie das folgende Beispiel verdeutlichen soll: Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution, they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example is intended to illustrate:

RNH2 +CH2CH2COOH X (bei pH=2) X" = beliebiges Anion, z.B. CI" RNH 2 + CH 2 CH 2 COOH X (at pH = 2) X " = any anion, eg CI "

RNH2 +CH2CH2COO- (bei pH=7) RNH 2 + CH 2 CH 2 COO- (at pH = 7)

RNHCH2CH2COO- B+ (bei pH=12) B+ = beliebiges Kation, z.B. Na+ Typisch für nicht-ionische Tenside sind Polyether-Ketten. Nicht-ionische Tenside bilden in wässrigerm Medium keine Ionen. RNHCH 2 CH 2 COO-B + (at pH = 12) B + = any cation, eg Na + Typical of non-ionic surfactants are polyether chains. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionische Tenside A. Anionic surfactants

Vorteilhaft zu verwendende anionische Tenside sind  Advantageously used anionic surfactants are

Acylaminosäuren (und deren Salze), wie Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/ Capric Glutamat,  1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl- hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/ Kalium Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Kollagen, 2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolysed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-Iauroyl Sarcosinat, Natrium- lauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat, 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,  4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. AcylLactylate, lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat  5. acyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate

6. Alaninate  6. Alaninates

Carbonsäuren und Derivate, wie  Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,  1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc undecylenate,

2. Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat,  2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

3. Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylat,  3. Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphorsäureester und Salze, wie beispielsweise DEA-Oleth-10-Phosphat und Dilaureth-4 Phosphat, Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,

Sulfonsäuren und Salze, wie Sulfonic acids and salts, such as

1. Acyl-isethionate, z.B. Natrium-/ Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,  1. Acyl-isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoylisethionate,

2. Alkylarylsulfonate,  2. alkylaryl sulphonates,

3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C12-14 Olefin- sulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,  3. Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C 12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuc- cinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido MEA-Sulfosuccinat sowie Schwefelsäureester, wie 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctylsodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laurethsulfosuccinate, disodium laurylsulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, as well as Sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA- Lau- rethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C12-13 Parethsulfat, 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA rethsulfat lauryl sulfate, sodium and sodium C 12- 13 pareth,

2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA- Laurylsulfat.  2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Kationische Tenside B. Cationic surfactants

Vorteilhaft zu verwendende kationische Tenside sind  Advantageously to use cationic surfactants

1. Alkylamine,  1. alkylamines,

2. Alkylimidazole,  2. alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylierte Amine und  3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternäre Tenside.  4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats  5. Esterquats

Quaternäre Tenside enthalten mindestens ein N-Atom, das mit 4 Alkyl- oder Arylgruppen kovalent verbunden ist. Dies führt, unabhängig vom pH Wert, zu einer positiven Ladung. Vorteilhaft sind, Alkylbetain, Alkylamidopropylbetain und Alkyl-amidopropylhydroxysulfain. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten kationischen Tenside können ferner bevorzugt gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der quaternären Ammoniumverbindungen, insbesondere Ben- zyltrialkylammoniumchloride oder -bromide, wie beispielsweise Benzyldimethylstea- rylammoniumchlorid, ferner Alkyltrialkylammoniumsalze, beispielsweise beispielsweise Ce- tyltrimethylammoniumchlorid oder -bromid, Alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammoniumchloride oder -bromide, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride oder -bromide, Alkylamidethyltrimethylam- moniumethersulfate, Alkylpyridiniumsalze, beispielsweise Lauryl- oder Cetylpyrimidinium- chlorid, Imidazolinderivate und Verbindungen mit kationischem Charakter wie Aminoxide, beispielsweise Alkyldimethylaminoxide oder Alkylaminoethyldimethylaminoxide. Vorteilhaft sind insbesondere Cetyltrimethylammoniumsalze zu verwenden.  Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. Advantageous are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfine. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds having a cationic character, such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.

C. Amphotere Tenside C. Amphoteric surfactants

Vorteilhaft zu verwendende amphotere Tenside sind  Advantageously used amphoteric surfactants

1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacyl- amphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsul- fonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,  1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulphoneate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropion- säure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.  2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Nicht-ionische Tenside Vorteilhaft zu verwendende nicht-ionische Tenside sind D. Nonionic surfactants Advantageously used nonionic surfactants are

1. Alkohole,  1. Alcohols,

2. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/ DEA/ MIPA,  2. alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,  3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,  4. Esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.  5. Ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. Sucroseester, -Ether  6. sucrose ester, ether

7 Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, onoglycerinester  7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, onoglycerol esters

8. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

Vorteilhaft ist ferner die Verwendung einer Kombination von anionischen und/oder ampho- teren Tensiden mit einem oder mehreren nicht-ionischen Tensiden. It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

Die oberflächenaktive Substanz kann in einer Konzentration zwischen 1 und 95 Gew.-% in den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen vorliegen, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. The surface-active substance can be present in a concentration of between 1 and 95% by weight in the preparations according to the invention, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können auch in Form kosmetischer Desodorantien und/oder Antitranspirantien vorliegen. Desodorantien sollen folgende Bedingungen erfüllen:  Preparations according to the invention may also be in the form of cosmetic deodorants and / or antiperspirants. Deodorants should fulfill the following conditions:

1 ) Sie sollen eine zuverlässige Desodorierung bewirken. 1) They should cause a reliable deodorization.

2) Die natürlichen biologischen Vorgänge der Haut dürfen nicht durch die Desodorantien beeinträchtigt werden.  2) The natural biological processes of the skin must not be impaired by the deodorants.

3) Die Desodorantien müssen bei Überdosierung oder sonstiger nicht bestimmungsgemäßer Anwendung unschädlich sein.  3) The deodorants must be harmless in case of overdose or other improper use.

4) Sie sollen sich nach wiederholter Anwendung nicht auf der Haut anreichern.  4) They should not accumulate on the skin after repeated use.

5) Sie sollen sich gut in übliche kosmetische Formulierungen einarbeiten lassen. Bekannt und gebräuchlich sind sowohl flüssige Desodorantien, beispielsweise Aerosolsprays, Roll-ons und dergleichen als auch feste Zubereitungen, beispielsweise Deo- Stifte ("Sticks"), Puder, Pudersprays, Intimreinigungsmittel usw. 5) They should be well incorporated into common cosmetic formulations. Known and commonly used are both liquid deodorants, for example aerosol sprays, roll-ons and the like, as well as solid preparations, for example deodorant sticks (sticks), powders, powder sprays, intimate cleaning agents, etc.

In sogenannten Antitranspirantien kann durch Adstringentien - vorwiegend Aluminiumsalze wie Aluminiumhydroxychlorid (Aluchlorhydrat) - die Bildung des Schweißes reduziert werden. In so-called antiperspirants can be reduced by astringents - predominantly aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (Aluchlorhydrat) - the formation of sweat.

Durch die Verwendung antimikrobieller Stoffe in kosmetischen Desodorantien kann die Bakterienflora auf der Haut reduziert werden. Dabei sollten im Idealfalle nur die Geruch verursachenden Mikroorganismen wirksam reduziert werden. Der Schweißfluß selbst wird dadurch nicht beeinflußt, im Idealfalle wird nur die mikrobielle Zersetzung des Schweißes zeitweilig gestoppt. By using antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants, the bacterial flora on the skin can be reduced. Ideally, only the odor causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced. The sweat flow itself is not affected by this, in the ideal case, only the microbial decomposition of the sweat is temporarily stopped.

Auch die Kombination von Adstringentien mit antimikrobiell wirksamen Stoffen in ein und derselben Zusammensetzung ist gebräuchlich. The combination of astringents with antimicrobial substances in the same composition is also common.

Bekannt und gebräuchlich sind neben den flüssigen Desodorantien auch feste Zubereitungen, beispielsweise Deo-Stifte ("Sticks"), Puder, Pudersprays, Intimreinigungsmittel usw. Known and common are in addition to the liquid deodorants and solid preparations, such as deodorant sticks ("sticks"), powders, powder sprays, Intimreinigungsmittel etc.

Die Lipidphase der erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Emulsionen kann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus folgender Substanzgruppe: The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

Mineralöle, Mineralwachse  Mineral oils, mineral waxes

öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z.B. Rizinusöl;  oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, furthermore natural oils, e.g. Castor oil;

Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylen- glykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;  Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;

Alkylbenzoate;  benzoates;

Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.  Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

Die Ölphase der Emulsionen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Bu- tylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Oleyl- oleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z.B. Jojobaöl. The oil phase of the emulsions according to the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group consisting of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil.

Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Silkonöle, der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkohole, sowie der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, z.B. Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernöl und dergleichen mehr. Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. For example, the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.

Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen. Es kann auch gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft sein, Wachse, beispielsweise Cetylpalmitat, als alleinige Lipidkomponente der ölphase einzusetzen. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Vorteilhaft wird die ölphase gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyldodecanol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isoeicosan, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, Ci2-i5-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprin- säure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether. The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, Ci2-i5-alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Besonders vorteilhaft sind Mischungen aus Ci2-i5-Alkylbenzoat und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Mischungen aus Ci2-is-Alkylbenzoat und Isotridecylisononanoat sowie Mischungen aus C 2- 15-Alkylbenzoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat und Isotridecylisononanoat. Particularly advantageous are mixtures of Ci2-i5-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 2 is-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C 2- 15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden. Vorteilhaft kann die ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölphasenkom- ponenten zu verwenden. Solche Silicone oder Siliconöle können als Monomere vorliegen, welche in der Regel durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert sind, wie folgt: Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention. Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:

R2— O— Si— O— R3 R 2 - O-Si-O-R 3

R4 R 4

Als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einzusetzenden linearen Silicone mit mehreren Siloxyl- einheiten werden im allgemeinen durch Strukturelemente harakterisiert wie folgt:  As linear silicones with several siloxyl units which are advantageously used according to the invention, they are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

Figure imgf000019_0001
wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste Ri - R4 dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist), m kann dabei Werte von 2 - 200.000 annehmen.
Figure imgf000019_0001
wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals Ri - R4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4), m can thereby Assume values of 2 - 200,000.

Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einzusetzende cyclische Silicone werden im allgemeinen durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert, wie folgt Cyclic silicones which are advantageously used in accordance with the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

Figure imgf000019_0002
wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste Ri - R4 dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist), n kann dabei Werte von 3/2 bis 20 annehmen. Gebrochene Werte für n be- rücksichtigen, daß ungeradzahlige Anzahlen von Siloxylgruppen im Cyclus vorhanden sein können.
Figure imgf000019_0002
wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals Ri - R4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4), n can thereby Take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n Consider that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Vorteilhaft wird Cyclomethicon (z.B. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxan) als erfindungsgemäß zu verwendendes Silikonöl eingesetzt. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Undecamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydi- methylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan), Cetyldimethicon, Behenoxydimethicon. Advantageously, cyclomethicone (e.g., decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is used as the silicone oil to be used in the present invention. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Vorteilhaft sind ferner Mischungen aus Cyclomethicon und Isotridecylisononanoat, sowie solche aus Cyclomethicon und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat. Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and Isotridecylisononanoat, and those of cyclomethicone and 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.

Es ist aber auch vorteilhaft, Silikonöle ähnlicher Konstitution wie der vorstehend bezeichneten Verbindungen zu wählen, deren organische Seitenketten derivatisiert, beispielsweise polyethoxyliert und/oder polypropoxyliert sind. Dazu zählen beispielsweise Polysiloxan- polyalkyl-polyether-copolymere wie das Cetyl-Dimethicon-Copolyol, das (Cetyl-Dimethicon- Copolyol (und) Polyglyceryl-4-lsostearat (und) Hexyllaurat) However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of similar constitution as the compounds described above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers, such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner Mischungen aus Cyclomethicon und Isotridecylisononanoat, aus Cyclomethicon und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat. Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

Die wässriger Phase der Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung enthält gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -mo- nobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethy- lenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, ferner Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1 ,2-Propandiol, Glycerin sowie insbesondere ein oder mehrere Verdickungsmittel, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdioxid, Aluminiumsilikate.  The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower C-number alcohols, eg Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can be advantageously selected from the group of silica, aluminum silicates.

Erfindungsgemäß enthalten als Emulsionen vorliegenden Zubereitungen insbesondere vorteilhaft ein oder mehrere Hydrocolloide. Diese Hydrocolloide können vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Gummen, Polysaccharide, Cellulosederivate, Schichtsilikate, Polyacrylate und/oder anderen Polymeren. Erfindungsgemäß enthalten als Hydrogele vorliegenden Zubereitungen ein oder mehrere Hydrocolloide. Diese Hydrocolloide können vorteilhaft aus der vorgenannten Gruppe gewählt werden. According to the present invention, emulsions present particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers. According to the present invention, hydrogel preparations contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the aforementioned group.

Zu den Gummen zählt man Pflanzen- oder Baumsäfte, die an der Luft erhärten und Harze bilden oder Extrakte aus Wasserpflanzen. Aus dieser Gruppe können vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung gewählt werden beispielsweise Gummi Arabicum, Johannisbrotmehl, Tragacanth, Karaya, Guar Gummi, Pektin, Gellan Gummi, Carrageen, Agar, Algine, Chon- drus, Xanthan Gummi. The gums include plant or tree juices that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. For the purposes of the present invention, gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algins, chondrus, xanthan gum can be selected from this group.

Weiterhin vorteilhaft ist die Verwendung von derivatisierten Gummen wie z.B. Hydroxypropyl Guar (Jaguar® HP 8). Further advantageous is the use of derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Unter den Polysacchariden und -derivaten befinden sich z.B. Hyaluronsäure, Chitin und Chitosan, Chondroitinsulfate, Stärke und Stärkederivate. Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulphates, starch and starch derivatives.

Unter den Cellulosederivaten befinden sich z.B. Methylcellulose, Carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

Unter den Schichtsilikaten befinden sich natürlich vorkommende und synthetische Tonerden wie z.B. Montmorillonit, Bentonit, Hektorit, Laponit, Magnesiumaluminiumsilikate wie Vee- gum®. Diese können als solche oder in modifizierter Form verwendet werden wie z.B. Stea- rylalkonium Hektorite. Among the layered silicates are naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as e.g. Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as VEGEGUM®. These may be used as such or in modified form as e.g. Stearylalkonium hectorites.

Weiterhin können vorteilhaft auch Kieselsäuregele verwendet werden. Furthermore, it is also advantageous to use silica gels.

Unter den Polyacrylaten befinden sich z.B. Carbopol Typen der Firma Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981 , 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 oder Pemulen T 2). Among the polyacrylates are e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen T 2).

Unter den Polymeren befinden sich z.B. Polyacrylamide (Seppigel 305), Polyvinylalkohole, PVP, PVP / VA Copolymere, Polyglycole. Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Erfindungsgemäß enthalten als Emulsionen vorliegenden Zubereitungen einen oder mehrere Emulgatoren. Diese Emulgatoren können vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der nichtionischen, anionischen, kationischen oder amphoteren Emulgatoren. Unter den nichtionischen Emulgatoren befinden sich According to the invention, emulsions present as emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers. Among the nonionic emulsifiers are

a) Partialfettsäureester und Fettsäureester mehrwertiger Alkohole und deren ethoxylierte Derivate (z. B. Glycerylmonostearate, Sorbitanstearate, Glycerylstearylcitrate, Sucrosestearate) a) Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (eg glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates)

b) ethoxilierte Fettalkohole und Fettsäuren b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids

c) ethoxilierte Fettamine, Fettsäureamide, Fettsäurealkanolamide c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides

d) Alkylphenolpolyglycolether (z.B. Triton X) d) alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (e.g., Triton X)

Unter den anionischen Emulgatoren befinden sich Among the anionic emulsifiers are

a) Seifen (z. B. Natriumstearat) a) soaps (eg sodium stearate)

b) Fettalkoholsulfate b) fatty alcohol sulfates

c) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphosäureester und deren Ethoxylate Unter den kationischen Emulgatoren befinden sich c) mono-, di- and Trialkylphosphosäureester and their ethoxylates Among the cationic emulsifiers are

a) quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen mit einem langkettigen aliphatischen Rest z.B. a) quaternary ammonium compounds having a long chain aliphatic radical e.g.

Distearyldimonium Chloride  Distearyldimonium chlorides

Unter den amphoteren Emulgatoren befinden sich Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

a) Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren a) Alkylamininoalkanecarboxylic acids

b) Betaine, Sulfobetaine b) betaines, sulfobetaines

c) Imidazolinderivate c) imidazoline derivatives

Weiterhin gibt es natürlich vorkommende Emulgatoren, zu denen Bienenwachs, Wollwachs, Lecithin und Sterole gehören. Furthermore, there are naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

O/W-Emulgatoren können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der po- lyethoxylierten bzw. polypropoxylierten bzw. polyethoxylierten und polypropoxylierten Produkte, z.B.: For example, O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example:

der Fettalkoholethoxylate  the fatty alcohol ethoxylates

der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,  ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,

der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel

Figure imgf000022_0001
the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula
Figure imgf000022_0001

der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel  the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO-(-CH2-CH2-0-)n -H, R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -H,

der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH2-CH2-0-)n -R', the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -R ',

der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO-(-CH2-CH2-0-)n -C(0)-R', R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -C (O) -R ',

der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester the polyethylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester

der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester the ethoxylated sorbitan ester

der Cholesterinethoxylate the cholesterol ethoxylates

der ethoxylierten Triglyceride the ethoxylated triglycerides

der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

R-0-(-CH2-CH2-0-)n-CH2-COOH und n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen, der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester, R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -CH 2 -COOH and n represents a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol,

der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-0-(-CH2-CH2-0-)n-S03-H der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula R-O - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -SO 3 -H of the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula

R-0-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-0-)n-H, R-O - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -H,

der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

R-0-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-0-)n-R\ R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -R \

der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole, the propoxylated wool wax alcohols,

der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate the etherified fatty acid propoxylates

R-COO-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-0-)n-R\ R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -R \

der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-0-)n-C(0)-R', R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -C (O) -R ',

der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-0-)n-H , R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -H,

der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester the polypropylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester

der propoxylierten Sorbitanester the propoxylated sorbitan ester

der Cholesterinpropoxylate the cholesterol propoxylates

der propoxylierten Triglyceride the propoxylated triglycerides

der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

R-0-(-CH2-CH(CH3)0-)n-CH2-COOH R-O - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) O-) n -CH 2 -COOH

der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden allgemeinen Formel R-0-(-CH2-CH(CH3)-0-)n-S03-H the alkyl ether sulfates or the general formula R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -SO 3 -H underlying these sulfates

der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

R-O-Xn-YnrH,  R-O-Xn-YnrH,

der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

R-0-Xn-Ym-R', R-0-X n -Y m -R ',

der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel

Figure imgf000024_0001
the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula
Figure imgf000024_0001

der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

Figure imgf000024_0002
Figure imgf000024_0002

Erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft werden die eingesetzten polyethoxylierten bzw. polypropoxylierten bzw. polyethoxylierten und polypropoxylierten O/W-Emulgatoren gewählt aus der Gruppe der Substanzen mit HLB-Werten von 11 - 18, ganz besonders vorteilhaft mit mit HLB-Werten von 14,5 - 15,5, sofern die O/W-Emulgatoren gesättigte Reste R und R' aufweisen. Weisen die O/W-Emulgatoren ungesättigte Reste R und/oder R' auf, oder liegen Isoalkylderivate vor, so kann der bevorzugte HLB-Wert solcher Emulgatoren auch niedriger oder darüber liegen. According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are selected particularly advantageously from the group of substances having HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously having HLB values of 14.5-15, 5, provided that the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or higher.

Es ist von Vorteil, die Fettalkoholethoxylate aus der Gruppe der ethoxylierten Stearylal- kohole, Cetylalkohole, Cetylstearylalkohole (Cetearylalkohole) zu wählen. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind: It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are:

Polyethylenglycol(13)stearylether (Steareth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)stearylether (Steareth- 14), Polyethylenglycol(15)stearylether (Steareth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)stearylether (Stea- reth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)stearylether (Steareth-17), Polyethylenglycol(18)stearylether (Steareth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)stearylether (Steareth-19), Polyethylenglycol(20)stea- rylether (Steareth-20), Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),

Polyethylenglycol(12)isostearylether (lsosteareth-12), Polyethylenglycol(13)isostearylether (lsosteareth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)isostearylether (lsosteareth-14), Polyethylenglycol- (15)isostearylether (lsosteareth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)isostearylether (lsosteareth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)isostearylether (lsosteareth-17), Polyethylenglycol(18)isostearylether (lsosteareth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)isostearylether (lsosteareth-19), Polyethylenglycol- (20)isostearylether (lsosteareth-20), Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20) .

Polyethylenglycol(13)cetylether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)cetylether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)cetylether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)cetylether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)cetylether (Ceteth-17), Polyethylenglycol(18)cetylether (Ceteth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)cetylether (Ceteth-19), Polyethylenglycol(20)cetylether (Ceteth-20), Polyethylenglycol(13)isocetylether (lsoceteth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)isocetylether (Iso- ceteth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)isocetylether (lsoceteth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)- isocetylether (lsoceteth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)isocetylether (lsoceteth-17), Polyethylen- glycol(18)isocetylether (lsoceteth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)isocetylether (lsoceteth-19), Polyethylenglycol(20)isocetylether (lsoceteth-20), Polyethylene glycol (13) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylene glycol (17) Cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20), Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17 isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

Polyethylenglycol(12)oleylether (Oleth-12), Polyethylenglycol(13)oleylether (Oleth-13), Poly- ethylenglycol(14)oleylether (Oleth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)oleylether (Oleth-15), Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15),

Polyethylenglycol(12)laurylether (Laureth-12), Polyethylenglycol(12)isolaurylether (Isolau- reth-12). Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isoloureth-12).

Polyethylenglycol(13)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-13), Polyethylenglycol(14)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-14), Polyethylenglycol(15)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-15), Polyethylenglycol(16)- cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-17), Poly- ethylenglycol(18)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-19), Polyethylenglycol(20)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-20), Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-20),

Es ist ferner von Vorteil, die Fettsäureethoxylate aus folgender Gruppe zu wählen: It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylenglycol(20)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(21 )stearat, Polyethylenglycol(22)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(23)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(24)stearat, Polyethylenglycol(25)stearat, Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,

Polyethylenglycol(12)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(13)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(14)iso- stearat, Polyethylenglycol(15)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(16)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol-Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol

(17) isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(18)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(19)isostearat, Polyethylen- glycol(20)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(21 )isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(22)isostearat, Poly- ethylenglycol(23)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(24)isostearat, Polyethylenglycol(25)isostearat, (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate , Polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylenglycol(12)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(13)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(14)oleat, Polyethy- lenglycol(15)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(16)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(17)oleat, Polyethylenglycol-Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol

(18) oleat, Polyethylenglycol(19)oleat, Polyethylenglycol(20)oleat (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate

Als ethoxylierte Alkylethercarbonsäure bzw. deren Salz kann vorteilhaft das Natriumlaureth- 1 1-carboxylat verwendet werden. Als Alkylethersulfat kann Natrium Laureth 1-4 sulfat vorteilhaft verwendet werden. The ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be the sodium laureth-1 l-carboxylate. As the alkyl ether sulfate, sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can be advantageously used.

Als ethoxyliertes Cholesterinderivat kann vorteilhaft Polyethylenglycol(30)Cholesterylether verwendet werden. Auch Polyethylenglycol(25)Sojasterol hat sich bewährt. As the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative, polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can be advantageously used. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven.

Als ethoxylierte Triglyceride können vorteilhaft die Polyethylenglycol(60) Evening Primrose Glycerides verwendet werden (Evening Primrose = Nachtkerze) As ethoxylated triglycerides, the polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides can advantageously be used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose)

Weiterhin ist von Vorteil, die Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester aus der Gruppe Poly- ethylenglycol(20)glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol(21 )glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol(22)gly- ceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol(23)glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol(6)glycerylcaprat/caprinat, Polyethylenglycol(20)glyceryloleat, Polyethylenglycol(20)glycerylisostearat, Polyethylengly- col(18)glyceryloleat/cocoat zu wählen. It is furthermore advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprate, polyethylene glycol (20). glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.

Es ist ebenfalls günstig, die Sorbitanester aus der Gruppe Polyethylenglycol(20)sorbitanmo- nolaurat, Polyethylenglycol(20)sorbitanmonostearat, Polyethylenglycol(20)sorbitanmonoiso- stearat, Polyethylenglycol(20)sorbitanmonopalmitat, Polyethylenglycol(20)sorbitanmonooleat zu wählen.  It is also favorable to choose the sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Als vorteilhafte W/O-Emulgatoren können eingesetzt werden: Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, Monoglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Monoglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Diglyce- rinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Propylenglycolester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen sowie Sorbitanester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. As advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C atoms, diglycerol saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C Atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C-atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C-atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or unge saturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Liegt in den erfindungsgemäßen Ausführungsformen der vorliegenden Erfindung die Emulsion in Form einer W/O-Emulsion vor, so ist es erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einen oder mehrere W/O-Emulgatoren aus der Gruppe der Verbindungen Polyglycerylisostearate, ethoxylierten Stearate, ethoxylierten hydrierten Rizinusöle, Alkylisostearate, ethoxylierte Dodeceylglycolcopolymere und Wollwachsderivate zu wählen. If, in the embodiments of the present invention, the emulsion is in the form of a W / O emulsion, it is advantageous according to the invention to use one or more of these to select several W / O emulsifiers from the group of compounds polyglyceryl isostearates, ethoxylated stearates, ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils, alkyl isostearates, ethoxylated Dodeceylglycolcopolymere and wool wax derivatives.

Dabei ist der Einsatz der W/O-Emulgatoren Polyglyceryl-3 Diiosostearat und PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearat erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt. The use of the W / O emulsifiers polyglyceryl-3 diiosostearate and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate according to the invention is preferred.

Liegt in den erfindungsgemäßen Ausführungsformen der vorliegenden Erfindung die Emulsion in Form einer W/S-Emulsion vor, so ist es erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einen oder mehrere W/S-Emulgatoren aus der Gruppe der Verbindungen ethoxylierten-proxylierten alkylmodifizierten Dimethicone und Dimethicone Copolyole zu wählen. If the emulsion in the form of a W / S emulsion is present in the embodiments of the present invention, it is advantageous according to the invention to choose one or more W / S emulsifiers from the group of the compounds ethoxylated-proxylated alkyl-modified dimethicones and dimethicone copolyols.

Dabei ist der Einsatz der W/S-Emulgatoren Dimethiconcopolyol und Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt. The use of the W / S emulsifiers dimethicone copolyol and cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone is preferred according to the invention.

Es hat sich im übrigen in überraschender Weise herausgestellt, daß der Dufteindruck einer kosmetischen Zubereitung durch die Zugabe einer oder mehrerer Hydroxamsäuren, insbesondere Octanohydroxamsäure, gegebnüber eine solchen Zubereitung, die keine Hydroxamsäure enthält, deutlich verbessert wird. Incidentally, it has surprisingly been found that the scent impression of a cosmetic preparation is markedly improved by the addition of one or more hydroxamic acids, in particular octanohydroxamic acid, in excess of such a preparation which does not contain hydroxamic acid.

Dies ist umso überraschender, als insbesondere Octanohydroxamsäure und ihre Derivate und insbesondere octanohydroxamsäurehaltige Hautpflegeprodukte einen Nebengeruch ausbilden können, der für den Anwender als unangenehm empfunden wird. This is all the more surprising since, in particular, octanohydroxamic acid and its derivatives and, in particular, octanohydroxamic acid-containing skin care products can form a side odor which is perceived as unpleasant for the user.

Gerade wenn Octanohydroxamsäure als Bestandteil einer Bodylotion formuliert worden ist und die ersten leichtflüchtigen Parfumbestandteile verdampft sind, kann es zu einem sauren chlorartigen Nebengeruch kommen, der der Octanohydroxamsäure zuzuschreiben ist. Precisely when octanohydroxamic acid has been formulated as a constituent of a body lotion and the first volatile perfume constituents have evaporated, an acidic, chlorous side odor attributable to the octanohydroxamic acid may result.

Als vorteilhafte Verkörperung der vorliegenden Erfindung werden daher auch Stoffkombinationen aus einer oder mehrerer Hydroxamsäuren, insbesondere Octanohydroxamsäure, und einem oder mehreren Parfumstoffen angesehen. As an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, therefore, combinations of substances from one or more hydroxamic acids, in particular octanohydroxamic acid, and one or more perfumes are considered.

Als vorteilhafte Parfumstoffe können eingesetzt werden: Dipropylenglycol, Methyl dihydrojasmonate, Phenethylalcohol, Linalool, Linalyl acetate, 2,6-Dimethyl-7-octen-2-ol, alpha-Hexylcinnamaldehyd, 2-Acetonapthone-1 ,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl, p-t-Butyl-alpha-methyldihydrocinnamic aldehyde, Benzyl acetate, 1 ,3,4,6,7,8-Hexahydro- 4,6,6,7,8,8-hexamethylcyclopenta-gamma-2-benzopyran, Methyl cedryl ketone, Ethylene brassylate, 4-(4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexene-1-carboxyaldehyde, Benzyl salicylate, Hexyl salicylate, Orange oil, alpha-lsomethylionone, Diethyl phthalate, 4-t- Butylcyclohexyl acetate, Patchouli oil, 3,7-Dimethyl-2,6-octadien-1-ol, Tetrahydrolinalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Isopropyl myristate, 3,7-Dimethyl-6-octen-1-ol, Orange terpenes, Heliotropin, Terpinyl acetate, omega-Pentadecalactone, Methyl-alpha-ionone, Lavandin oil, Lemon oil, Bergamot oil, 7-Acetyl-1 ,1 ,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, Coumarin, Ethyllinalool, Amyl salicylate, 2-tert-Pentyl-cyclohexyl acetate, 3-Methyl-5-phenyl-1 -pentanol, Cedrol, Benzyl benzoate, Vanillin, alpha-Amylcinnamaldehyde, Dimethyl phthalate, d-Limonene, 2- lsobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, Triethyl citrate, Terpineol, Lavender oil, Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, 2-Phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, Anisyl alcohol, 3- Pentyltetrahydro(2H)pyranyl acetate, Methyl ester of rosin, partially hydrogenated, Isobornyl acetate, Rosemary oil, Petitgrain oil, 1 ,4-Dioxacyclohexadecane-5,16-dione, Isoamyl salicylate, gamma-Undecalactone, alpha-lonone, Oxacyclohexadecen-2-one, 7-Octen-2-ol,As advantageous perfumes can be used: dipropylene glycol, methyl dihydrojasmonate, phenethyl alcohol, linalool, linalyl acetate, 2,6-dimethyl-7-octene-2-ol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-Acetonapthone-1, 2,3,4,5 , 6,7,8-octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl, p-butyl-alpha-methyldihydrocinnamic aldehyde, benzyl acetate, 1, 3,4,6,7,8-hexahydro-4,6,6,7,8,8-hexamethylcyclopenta-gamma-2-benzopyran, methyl cedryl ketone, Ethylene brassylate, 4- (4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) -3-cyclohexene-1-carboxyaldehydes, benzyl salicylate, hexyl salicylate, orange oil, alpha-isomethylionone, diethyl phthalate, 4-t-butylcyclohexyl acetate, patchouli oil, 3 , 7-dimethyl-2,6-octadien-1-ol, tetrahydrolinalool, hydroxycitronellal, isopropyl myristate, 3,7-dimethyl-6-octen-1-ol, orange terpenes, heliotropin, terpinyl acetate, omega-pentadecalactone, methyl alpha-ionone, lavandin oil, lemon oil, bergamot oil, 7-acetyl-1, 1, 3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, coumarin, ethyllinalool, amyl salicylate, 2-tert-pentyl-cyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl -5-phenyl-1-pentanol, cedrole, benzyl benzoate, vanillin, alpha-Amylcinnamaldehyde, dimethyl phthalate, d-limonene, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, triethyl citrate, terpineol, Lavender oil, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, 2-phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, anisyl alcohol, 3-pentyltetrahydro (2H) pyranyl acetate, methyl ester of rosin, partially hydrogenated, isobornyl acetate, rosemary oil, petitgrain oil, 1,4-dioxacyclohexadecan-5,16-dione, isoamyl salicylate, gamma Undecalactones, alpha-ionones, oxacyclohexadecene-2-ones, 7-octen-2-ol,

2- methyl-6-methylene, dihydro derive, 1 ,2-Propyleneglycol, 3-(5,5,6- Trimethylbicyclo(2.2.1 )hept-2-yl)cyclohexan-1 -ol, Geranium oil, Musk ketone, Cedrenyl acetate, Isobornylcyclohexanol, lonone, Benzyl alcohol, gamma-Nonalactone, I-Menthol, Cyclohexyl salicylate, Dihydromyrcenyl acetate, Citral, Orange terpenes (natural), Cedarwood oil, alpha-Pinene, Majantol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethyl acetate, Cedrol methyl ether, 1 ,5,9-Trimethyl-13-oxabicyclo(10.1.0) trideca-4,8-diene, Peppermint oil, Eugenol, Ethyl maltol, Benzaldehyde, Cinnamic alcohol, 3,7-Dimethyl-1 -octanol, alpha-Methyl-3,4- methylene dioxyhydrocinnamic aldehyde, beta-Pinene, d-Camphor, Methyl abietate, Cedryl acetate, Ylang ylang oil, Sandalwood oil, Mineral oil, Dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate, Ethyl butyrate, Geranyl acetate, Hexylene glycol, Myrcene, alpha-Methyionantheme, beta-lonone,2-methyl-6-methylene, dihydro-1, 2-propylene glycol, 3- (5,5,6-trimethyl-bicyclo (2.2.1) -hept-2-yl) cyclohexane-1-ol, geranium oil, muscone ketone, Cedrenyl acetate, isobornylcyclohexanol, ionone, benzyl alcohol, gamma-nonalactone, l-menthol, cyclohexyl salicylate, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, citral, orange terpenes (natural), cedarwood oil, alpha-pinene, mayantol, phenoxyethanol, ethyl acetate, cedrole methyl ether, 1, 5,9-trimethyl-13-oxabicyclo (10.1.0) trideca-4,8-dienes, peppermint oil, eugenol, ethyl maltol, benzaldehydes, cinnamic alcohol, 3,7-dimethyl-1-octanol, alpha-methyl -3,4-methylene dioxyhydrocinnamic aldehydes, beta-pinene, d-camphor, methyl abietate, cedryl acetate, ylang ylang oil, sandalwood oil, mineral oil, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate, ethyl butyrate, geranyl acetate, hexylene glycol, Myrcene, alpha Methionine, beta-ionone,

3- (4-t-Butylphenyl)propanal, 3,7-Dimethyloctan-3-yl acetate, Acetic acid, (1-oxopropoxy)-, 1 - (3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl), Eucalyptol, 4-Carvomenthenol, Stearic acid, Menthanyl acetate, Eucalyptus oil, Dihydroterpinyl acetate, o-t-Butylcyclohexyl acetate, Isoeugenol, alpha- Terpineol, Cyclamen aldehyde, Hydroxycitronellol, Myrcenyl acetate, Nopyl acetate, 3,7- Dimethyl-1 ,3,6-octatriene, Rhodinol, Dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, Tricyclodecenyl Propionate, 2-Methyl-5-phenylpentan-1 -ol, Sclareoate, 3-lsocamphyl cyclohexanol, trans- Anethole, Hexahydro-4,7-methanoinden-5(6)-yl acetate, 4-(p-Hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone, Nerolidol, alpha-Butylcinnamaldehyde, Bornyl acetate, Etyhl methylphenylglycidate, trans- beta-lonone, Camphene, Juniper berry oil, Mandarin oil, Nutmeg oil, Spearmint oil, Grapefruit oil, Labdanum oil, Galbanum oil, Menthone, Trichloromethyl phenyl carbinyl acetate, alpha- Methylbenzyl acetate, Ethyl-2methyl-1 ,3-dioxolane-2-acetate, 2,6-Nonadienal, Abietyl acetate, Anisic acid, Diphenyl ether, Triacetin, 2-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol, Phenylethyl acetate, 1-Phenyl-3-methyl-3-pentanol, Anisyl acetate, Cinnamic aldehyde, p-Methylanisole, 5-Phenylpentanol, Diethyl malonate, Citronellal, Nerol, Undecanal,2-methyl-, Hexyl alcohol, Glyceryl caprylate, Methyl 2-nonenoate, Octyl acetate, Decanal, Lauryl alcohol, Lauric aldehyde, Ethyl vanillin, 3-Phenyl-1-propanol, Octanal, Butylated hydroxytoluene, 4-Acetyl-6- t-butyl-1 ,1-dimetylindane, delta-3-Caren, Benzyl laurate, Neryl acetate, Ethyl acetoacetate, Hexyl acetate, Menthol liquid, Citronellyl acetate, Tetrahydromyrcenol, Diacetin, Menthyl acetate, 3(4),8(9)-Dihydroxymethyl tricyclo(5.2.1.0(2,6)decane, 2,4-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1- carboxaaldehyde, Cedrenol, Phenylacetaldehyde glyceryl acetal, Sabinene, 3,7,11- Trimethyl-1 ,2,10,-dodecatrien-3-ol (eis & trans), Octyldodecanol, Formaldehyde cyclododecyl ethyl acetal, Myristicin, 3,7-Dimethyl-2(3),6-nonadienenitrile, Ethyllinylyl acetate, 2- Methylbutyl acetate, cis-3-Hexenyl salicylate, 2-Methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2(1 )-cyclohexen-1- yl) butanal, Maltol isobutyrate, 2-Methyl-3(4-(2-methylpropyl)phenyl)propanal, 12- Oxahexadecanolide, 1 ,1-Dimethoxy-2,25-trimethyl-4-hexene, 1 , 6, 7, 8-Tetrahydro-1 ,4,6,6,8,8- hexamthyl-as-indacen-3<2H>-one, Bergamot oil, bergaptene free, Treemoss abs., Citrus oil distilled, Lemon terpenes, gamma-Decalactone, 2-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanone, Allyl phenoxyacetate, Methyl-delta-ionone, Citronella oil, Clove bud oil, Thyme oil, Lime oil, Bois de rose oil, Cognac oil, Neroli bigarade oil, Spike lavender oil, Vetiver oil, Fir needle oil, Methylpentenolone, Lemon oil terpenes, Isobutyl salicylate, beta-Caryophyllene, Pulegone, Thymol, gamma-Terpinene, Acetyl Hexamethyl Tetralin (Moschus-Verb.) .Amylacetat .Amylsalicylat, Anethol, Anisöl, Annatto , Extrakt aus Blättern der Melisse, öl aus Blättern der Melisse, Bayöl, Lorbeeröl, Benzaldehyd, Benzylacetat, Benzylalkohol, Benzylbenzoat, Benzyl Cinnamate (Inhaltsstoff ätherischer öle), Benzylsalicylat, Benzylcinnamat, Calendulaöl, Kamelienöl, Kampher, Kümmelöl, Kardamomöl , Carvon , Kamillenöl, Zimtöl, Citral, Lemongrassöl, Nelkenöl, Nelkenblattöl, Cumarin, Kreuzkümmelextrakt, Dimethylbrassylat, Dipenten , Ethylvanillin, Ethylenbrassylat, Eucalyptol , Eucalyptusöl, Eugenol , Ingweröl, Gum Benzoin, Hopfenöl, Isoamylacetat, Wacholderteer, Lavendelöl, Zitronenöl, Zitronengrasöl, Liebstöckelöl, Kamillenöl, Menthol, Menthylacetat, Menthyllactat, Menthylsalicylat, Methyleugenol, Methyl Rosinate, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Muskatnussöl, Ocotea Cymbarum öl , Weihrauchharz, Weihrauchharzextrakt, Orangenextrakt, Orangenblütenöl, Orangenblütenwasser, Orangenöl, Orangenschalenextrakt, Petersilienöl, p-Cymene, Pentadecalacton, Pfefferminzextrakt, Pfefferminzöl, Phenethylalkohol, Kiefernöl, Kiefern(teer)öl, Rosenextrakt, Rosenöl, Rosmarinöl, Gartenrautenöl, Salbeiöl, Holunderextrakt, Holunderöl, Sandelholzöl, Sassafrasbaumöl , (süßes) Majoranöl, Teeröl, Teebaumöl, Terpineol, Thymianöl, Thymol, Vanille, Vanillin, Schafgarbenöl 3- (4-t-butylphenyl) propanal, 3,7-dimethyloctan-3-yl acetate, Acetic acid, (1-oxopropoxy) -, 1- (3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl), eucalyptol, 4-carvomenthenol, stearic acid , Menthanyl acetate, eucalyptus oil, dihydroterpinyl acetate, ot-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isoeugenol, alpha-terpineol, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellol, myrcenyl acetate, nopyl acetate, 3,7-dimethyl-1,3,6-octatrienes, rhodinol, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionates, 2-methyl-5-phenylpentane-1-ol, sclareoates, 3-isocamphyl cyclohexanol, trans-anetholes, hexahydro-4,7-methanoindene-5 (6) -yl acetate, 4- (p- Hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanones, nerolidol, alpha-butylcinnamaldehyde, bornyl acetate, ethyl methylphenyl glycidate, trans-beta-ionone, camphene, juniper berry oil, mandarin oil, nutmeg oil, spearmint oil, grapefruit oil, labdanum oil, galbanum oil, menthone , Trichloromethylphenyl carbinyl acetate, alpha Methylbenzyl acetate, ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-dioxolane-2-acetate, 2,6-nonadienal, abietyl acetate, anisic acid, diphenyl ether, triacetin, 2-methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol, phenylethyl acetate, 1 -Phenyl-3-methyl-3-pentanol, anisyl acetate, cinnamic aldehydes, p-methylanisoles, 5-phenylpentanol, diethyl malonate, citronellal, nerol, undecanal, 2-methyl-, hexyl alcohol, glyceryl caprylate, methyl 2-nonenoate, Octyl acetate, decanal, lauryl alcohol, lauric aldehyde, ethyl vanillin, 3-phenyl-1-propanol, octanal, butylated hydroxytoluene, 4-acetyl-6-t-butyl-1,1-dimetylindane, delta-3-carene, benzyl laurate, neryl acetate, ethyl acetoacetate, hexyl acetate, menthol liquid, citronellyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, diacetin, menthyl acetate, 3 (4), 8 (9) -dihydroxymethyl tricyclo (5.2.1.0 (2,6) decane, 2,4 Dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-carboxaldehydes, cedrenol, phenylacetaldehyde glyceryl acetal, sabinene, 3,7,11-trimethyl-1,2,10-dodecatrien-3-ol (ice & trans), octyldodecanol, formaldehyde cyclododecyl ethyl ace tallow, myristicin, 3,7-dimethyl-2 (3), 6-nonadienenitrile, ethyl linylyl acetate, 2-methylbutyl acetate, cis-3-hexenyl salicylate, 2-methyl-4- (2,6,6-trimethyl-2 (1) -cyclohexene-1-yl) butanal, maltol isobutyrate, 2-methyl-3 (4- (2-methylpropyl) phenyl) propanal, 12-oxahexadecanolide, 1, 1-dimethoxy-2,25-trimethyl-4- hexene, 1, 6, 7, 8-tetrahydro-1, 4,6,6,8,8-hexamethyl-as-indacene-3 <2H> -one, Bergamot oil, bergaptene free, Treemoss abs., Citrus oil distilled , Lemon terpenes, gamma decalactones, 2-methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanones, allyl phenoxyacetates, methyl delta-ionones, citronella oil, clove bud oil, thyme oil, lime oil, bois de rose oil, cognac oil, Neroli bigarade oil, Spike lavender oil, Vetiver oil, Fir needle oil, Methylpentenolone, Lemon oil terpenes, Isobutyl salicylate, beta-Caryophyllene, Pulegone, Thymol, gamma-terpinene, Acetyl hexamethyl tetralin (musk verb) .Amylacetat .Amylsalicylat, Anethole, aniseed oil, annatto, extract of leaves of melissa, oil of leaves of melissa, Bayö l, laurel oil, benzaldehyde, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate (essential oil ingredient), benzyl salicylate, benzyl cinnamate, calendula oil, camellia oil, camphor, caraway oil, cardamom oil, carvone, chamomile oil, cinnamon oil, citral, lemongrass oil, clove oil, clove leaf oil, coumarin, Cumin extract, dimethylbrassylate, dipentene, ethylvanillin, ethylenebasylate, eucalyptol, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, ginger oil, gum benzoin, hop oil, isoamylacetate, waxy tar, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lovage oil, chamomile oil, menthol, menthyl acetate, menthyl lactate, menthyl salicylate, methyleugenol, methyl rosinate, Methyl dihydrojasmonate, nutmeg oil, Ocotea cymbarum oil, frankincense resin, frankincense extract, orange extract, orange blossom oil, orange blossom water, orange oil, orange peel extract, parsley oil, p-cymene, pentadecalactone, peppermint extract, peppermint oil, phenethyl alcohol, pine oil, pine oil, rose extract, rose oil, Ro smarine oil, garden radar oil, sage oil, Elderberry extract, elderberry oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras tree oil, (sweet) marjoram oil, tar oil, tea tree oil, terpineol, thyme oil, thymol, vanilla, vanillin, yarrow oil

Als weitere Stabilisatoren können folgende Rohstoffe eingesetzt werden: The following raw materials can be used as further stabilizers:

Acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycin, Acrylamidammoniumacrylatcopolymer, Aluminummagnesiumhydroxidstearat, Ammoniumlactat, Ammoniumpolyacrylat, Ammoniumpolyacryloyldimethyltaurat, Arginin PCA, Capryloylsalicylsäureester, Zimtsäure, Cocoglucosid, Kupfergluconat, Diphenyldimethicon, Dinatriumadenosintriphosphat, Dnatriumsuccinat, Disteardimoniumhectorit, Dodecen, Eperua Falcata , hydriertes Palmenglycerid, hydriertes Palmenglyceridcitrat, Hydrierte Palmenkernglyceride, Hydrolisiertes Weizenprotein PG-Propylmethylsilandiol, Hydroxyethylacrylat / Natriumacryloyldimethyltauracopolymer, lsodeceth-6, Linseed Acid Magnesiumaspartat, Melibiose, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylsäure, Palmitoylpentapeptide 4, PEG-8 Laurat, Phenethylalkohol, Phenylpropanol, Polyacrylate-13, Polyacrylate-3 , Sarcosin, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extrakt, Scutellaria Baicalensis Extrakt , Natriummetabisulfit, Sojaisoflavon, Tocopherylglucosid, Trideceth-6, Zinkgluconat , Triacetin, 1 ,2 Hexandiol, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Nicotinamide, Penethyl Alcohol, Penthylene Glycol, Carnaubau Wax, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Oleyl Erucate Acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycin, Acrylamidammoniumacrylatcopolymer, Aluminummagnesiumhydroxidstearat, ammonium lactate, ammonium polyacrylate, Ammoniumpolyacryloyldimethyltaurat, arginine PCA, Capryloylsalicylsäureester, cinnamic acid, cocoglucoside, copper gluconate, diphenyldimethicone, disodium adenosine triphosphate, Dnatriumsuccinat, Disteardimoniumhectorit, dodecene, Eperua Falcata, hydrogenated Palmenglycerid, hydrogenated Palmenglyceridcitrat, Hydrogenated Palmenkernglyceride, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propylmethylsilandiol , Hydroxyethylacrylate / Sodiumacryloyldimethyltauracopolymer, Isodeceth-6, Linseed Acid Magnesiumaspartate, Melibiose, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid, Palmitoylpentapeptide 4, PEG-8 Laurate, Phenethylalcohol, Phenylpropanol, Polyacrylate-13, Polyacrylate-3, Sarcosine, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract, Sodium Metabisulfite, Soy Mayoflavone , Tocopheryl glucoside, trideceth-6, zinc gluconate, triacetin, 1,2-hexanediol, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane Sulfonic Acid, Nicotinamide, Penethyl Alcohol, Penthylene Glycol, Carnaubau Wax, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Oleyl Erucate

Polycaprolactone, Sucrose Polycottonseedate, Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine Phytol, Avena Aqua, Nylon-66, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Shorea Robusta Butter, Punica Granatum Fruit Juice, Methylserine Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Pyracantha Fortuneana Extract PEG-24 Cetyl Ether, Thiodipropionic Acid, Essential Oils, Tocopheryl Glucoside Polycaprolactone, Sucrose Polycottonseedate, Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine Phytol, Avena Aqua, Nylon-66, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Shorea Robusta Butter, Punica Granatum Fruit Juice, Methylserines Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates, Pyracantha Fortuneana Extract PEG -24 Cetyl Ether, Thiodipropionic Acid, Essential Oils, Tocopheryl Glucosides

PEG-24 Cholesteryl Ether, Biosaccharide Gum 3, Guanosine, Polyester-5, Dimethoxy Di-p- Cresol, Tri C14-15 Alkylcitrate, Ethyl Bisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, PEG-24 Cholesteryl Ether, Biosaccharides Gum 3, Guanosine, Polyester-5, Dimethoxy Di-p-Cresol, Tri C14-15 Alkyl Citrate, Ethyl Bisiminomethyl Guaiacol Manganese Chloride,

Hydrated Magnesium Silicate, Lagerstroemia Indica Extract, Ethyl Glucoside, Linseed Acid PEG / PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate, Isoquercitrin Hydrated Magnesium Silicate, Lagerstroemia Indica Extract, Ethyl Glucoside, Linseed Acid PEG / PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate, Isoquercitrin

Thiotaurine, Andrographolide, Erythritol, Xymenynic Acid, Coffea Robusta, Disodium NADH Lauryl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer, Amaranthus Caudatus Extract, BGT, Chrysanthenum Parthenium, Lauryl Polyglucoside, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate, Glucosylrutin, Mineral Water, Pisces Collagen, Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Mannose Phosphate, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethan, Butyl Hydroquinone Thiotaurine, Andrographolide, Erythritol, Xymenic Acid, Coffea Robusta, Disodium NADH Lauryl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer, Amaranthus Caudatus Extract, BGT, Chrysanthenum Parthenium, Lauryl Polyglucoside, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate, Glucosylrutin , Mineral Water, Pisces Collagen, Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Mannose Phosphate, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Butyl Hydroquinone

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Blossoms, Hierochloe Odorata Extract, Kaempferia Galanga Root Extract, PEG-2 Stearyl Ether, Succinoglycan, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Coleus Barbatus Extract  Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Blossoms, Hierochloe Odorata Extract, Kaempferia Galanga Root Extract, PEG-2 Stearyl Ether, Succinoglycan, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Coleus Barbatus Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Pyrus Malus Water, Trioxaundecanedioic Acid, Amaranthus Extract, Dodecene, Hydrolyzed Cera Alba, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid, PEG-20 Stearyl Ether, Platanus Occidentalis, Selaginella Tamariscina Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Pyrus Malus Water, Trioxaundecanedioic Acid, Amaranthus Extract, Dodecene, Hydrolyzed Cera Alba, Oxothiazolidine Carboxylic Acid, PEG-20 Stearyl Ether, Platanus Occidentalis, Selaginella Tamariscina Extract,

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Anthemis Nobilis Flower, Cassia Alata, Echium Lycopsis Oil, Eucalyptol, Heptapeptide-6, Humulus Japonicus Flower / Leaf / Stern Extract, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Lupinus Luteus Extract, Palmitoyl Lysyl Aminovaleroyl Lysine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Anthemis Nobilis Flower, Cassia Alata, Echium Lycopsis Oil, Eucalyptol, Heptapeptide-6, Humulus Japonicus Flower / Leaf / Star Extract, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Lupinus Luteus Extract, Palmitoyl Lysyl Aminovaleroyl Lysine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate

Bevorzugt im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Pigmentmischungen aus Weiß- Pigmenten (z. B. Kaolin, Titandioxid oder Zinkoxid) und anorganischen Farbpigmenten (z. B. Eisenoxid-Pigmente, Chromoxide), wobei die Pigmente beschichtet ("gecoatet") oder unbeschichtet vorliegen können. Unter den Farbpigmenten sind Eisenoxide besonders bevorzugt. Die erfindungsgemäßen Pigmente können anorganisch oder organisch sein. Preferred for the purposes of the present invention are pigment mixtures of white pigments (for example kaolin, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide) and inorganic color pigments (for example iron oxide pigments, chromium oxides), the pigments being coated (coated) or uncoated can. Among the color pigments, iron oxides are particularly preferred. The pigments of the invention may be inorganic or organic.

Weißpigmente sind Pigmente, deren optische Wirkung vorwiegend auf nicht-selektiver Lichtstreuung beruht (siehe auch DIN 55944: 2003-11 ). Von den chemisch oft sehr ähnlichen Füllstoffen unterscheiden sich anorganische Weißpigmente vor allem durch ihre im allgemeinen höhere Brechzahl und - damit verbunden - ihr höheres Streuvermögen sowie nach DIN 55943: 2001 -10 durch ihre Anwendung. White pigments are pigments whose optical effect is mainly based on non-selective light scattering (see also DIN 55944: 2003-11). Of the often chemically very similar fillers, inorganic white pigments differ in particular from their generally higher refractive index and, associated therewith, from their higher scattering power as well as from their application according to DIN 55943: 2001-10.

Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Weißpigmente zeigen keine Absorption im Bereich des sichtbaren Lichts, dafür aber ein hohes Streuvermögen, welches ein hohes Deckvermögen zur Folge hat. Das Streuvermögen ist umso größer, je größer die Differenz zwischen der Brechzahl des Weißpigmentes und der des umgebenden Mediums ist. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Weißpigmente sind Titandioxide (Brechzahlen: 2,55 für Anatas und 2,75 für Rutil) und Zinkoxide (Brechzahl zwischen 1 ,95 und 2,1 ). Besonders bevorzugt ist Titandioxid. White pigments preferred according to the invention show no absorption in the visible light range, but a high scattering power which results in high hiding power. The scattering power is greater, the greater the difference between the refractive index of the white pigment and that of the surrounding medium. According to the invention advantageous white pigments are titanium dioxides (refractive indices: 2.55 for anatase and 2.75 for rutile) and zinc oxides (refractive index between 1.95 and 2.1). Particularly preferred is titanium dioxide.

Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können das oder die Pigmente auch aus der Gruppe der Effektpigmente gewählt werden, welche der kosmetischen Zubereitung neben der reinen Farbe eine zusätzliche Eigenschaft - wie z. B. eine Winkelabhängigkeit der Farbe (changieren, Flop), Glanz (nicht Oberflächenglanz) oder Textur - verleihen. Solche Effektpigmente werden erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zusätzlich zu einem oder mehreren Weiß- und/oder Farbpigmenten eingesetzt. Advantageous in the context of the present invention, the pigment or pigments can also be selected from the group of effect pigments, which of the cosmetic preparation in addition to the pure color an additional property - such. B. an angular dependence of the color (iridescent, flop), gloss (not surface gloss) or texture - confer. Such effect pigments are advantageously used according to the invention in addition to one or more white and / or color pigments.

Die bedeutendste Gruppe der Effektpigmente stellen die Glanzpigmente dar, zu denen nach DIN 55944: 2003-11 die Metalleffektpigmente und die Perlglanzpigmente gehören. Einige spezielle Effektpigmente lassen sich diesen beiden Gruppen nicht zuordnen, z. B. plättchenförmiges Graphit, plättchenförmiges Eisenoxid und mikronisiertes Titandioxid, wobei mikronisiertes Titandioxid keinen Glanzeffekt, sondern einen winkelabhängigen Lichtstreueffekt erzeugt. Bei den Glanzpigmenten nach DIN 55943: 2001-10 handelt es sich vorwiegend um plättchenförmige Effektpigmente. Parallel orientiert zeigen Glanzpigmente einen charakteristischen Glanz. Die optische Wirkung von Glanzpigmenten beruht auf der gerichteten Reflexion an metallischen Teilchen (Metalleffektpigmente), an transparenten Teilchen mit hoher Brechzahl (Perlglanzpigmente) oder auf dem Phänomen der Interferenz (Interferenzpigmente) (DIN 55944: 2003-11 ). The most important group of effect pigments are the luster pigments, which according to DIN 55944: 2003-11 include the metallic effect pigments and the pearlescent pigments. Some special effect pigments can not be assigned to these two groups, eg. As platelet-shaped graphite, platelet-shaped iron oxide and micronized titanium dioxide, wherein micronized titanium dioxide produces no gloss effect, but an angle-dependent light scattering effect. The luster pigments according to DIN 55943: 2001-10 are predominantly platelet-shaped effect pigments. Parallel oriented luster pigments show a characteristic shine. The optical effect of luster pigments is based on the directed reflection on metallic particles (metallic effect pigments), on transparent particles with high refractive index (pearlescent pigments) or on the phenomenon of interference (interference pigments) (DIN 55944: 2003-11).

Beispiele für erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte handelübliche Effektpigmente sind: Timiron® von Merck, Iriodin® von Merck (Perl- und Farbglanzpigmente für dekorative technische Anwendungen), Xirallic® von Merck (farbintensive Kristalleffektpigmente). Examples of commercially available effect pigments which are preferred according to the invention are: Timiron® from Merck, Iriodin® from Merck (pearl and color luster pigments for decorative technical applications), Xirallic® from Merck (color-intensive crystal effect pigments).

Ferner können die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen vorteilhaft auch organische Farbpigmente enthalten, d. h. organische Farbstoffe, welche in der Zubereitung praktisch unlöslich sind. Nach DIN 55944: 1990-04 können organische Pigmente nach chemischen Gesichtspunkten in Azopigmente und polycyclische Pigmente sowie nach farblichen Gesichtspunkten in Bunt- oder Schwarzpigmente eingeteilt werden. Organische Weißpigmente sind ohne praktische Bedeutung. Die Pigmente können vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch in Form kommerziell erhältlicher öliger oder wässriger Vordispersionen zur Anwendung kommen. Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention may advantageously also contain organic color pigments, ie organic dyes which are practically insoluble in the preparation. According to DIN 55944: 1990-04, organic pigments can be classified according to chemical aspects into azo pigments and polycyclic pigments as well as according to color aspects into colored or black pigments. Organic white pigments are of no practical importance. Within the meaning of the present invention, the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions.

Es ist ferner vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenn die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung eine oder mehrere Farbstoffe enthält. It is furthermore advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the preparation according to the invention contains one or more dyes.

Die Farbstoffe können sowohl synthetischen als auch natürlichen Ursprungs sein. The dyes can be of both synthetic and natural origin.

Als Farbstoffe können die für kosmetische Zwecke geeigneten und zugelassenen Dyes which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes

Substanzen verwendet werden. Beispiele sind Kochenillerot A (C.l. 16255), Patentblau V (C.1.42051), Indigotin (C.1.73015), Chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), Chinolingelb (C.I.47005). Substances are used. Examples are Kochillerot A (C.I. 16255), Patent Blue V (C.1.42051), indigotine (C.1.73015), chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), quinoline yellow (C.I.47005).

Titandioxid (C.l.77891 ), Indanthrenblau RS (C.l. 69800) und Krapplack (C.I.58000). Titanium dioxide (C.I.77891), Indanthrenblau RS (C.I. 69800) and Krapplack (C.I.58000).

Diese Farbstoffe werden üblicherweise in Konzentrationen von 0,001 bis 1 Gew.%, bezogen auf die gesamte Mischung, formuliert. These dyes are usually formulated in concentrations of 0.001 to 1% by weight, based on the total mixture.

Die erfinderischen Zubereitungen können auch Repellentien enthalten. The inventive preparations may also contain repellents.

Die meisten Repellent-Wirkstoffe gehören den Stoffklassen der Amide, Alkohole, Ester und Most repellent agents belong to the classes of amides, alcohols, esters and

Ether an. Ether on.

Ein moderner Repellent-Wirkstoff ist beispielsweise der 1-Piperidincarboxylsäure 2-(2- hydroxyethyl)-1-methylpropylester (INN: Icaridin, CAS-Nummer: 1 19515-38-7, Elincs- Nummer: 423-210-8), der die folgende Struktur aufweist: A modern repellent active ingredient is, for example, the 1-piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester (INN: icaridin, CAS number: 1 19515-38-7, Elincs number: 423-210-8), the has the following structure:

Figure imgf000033_0001
Figure imgf000033_0001

Ein weiterer häufig eingesetzter Repellent-Wirkstoff ist der 3-(N-n-Butyl-N-acetyl-amino)- propionsäureethylester (auch als Ethylbutylacetylaminopropionat oder Repellent 3535 bezeichnet), welcher sich durch die folgende Strukturformel auszeichnet: Another frequently used repellent active ingredient is ethyl 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionate (also referred to as ethylbutylacetylaminopropionate or Repellent 3535), which is characterized by the following structural formula:

Figure imgf000034_0001
Figure imgf000034_0001

Nicht zuletzt kennt der Fachmann den Repellent-Wirkstoff N,N-Diethyl-3-methylbenzamid ( Meta-delphene, DEET), der di folgende Struktur aufweist: Last but not least, the person skilled in the art knows the repellent active ingredient N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (meta-delphene, DEET), which has the following structure:

Figure imgf000034_0002
Figure imgf000034_0002

Zu den erfinderischen Formulierungen können auch Wirkstoffe hinzugefügt werden. Active ingredients can also be added to the inventive formulations.

Unter den Wirkstoffen sind beispielsweise Tocopherol, Tocopherolacetat, Tocopherolpalmitat, Ascorbinsäure, (Desoxy)Ribonucleinsäure und deren Fragmentierungsprodukte, ß-Glucane, Retinol, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Phytantriol, Panthenol, AHA-Säuren, Aminosäuren, Ceramide, Pseudoceramide, essentielle Öle, Pflanzenextrakte, wie z. B. Prunusextrakt, Bambusextrakt, Lindenblütenextrakt und Vitaminkomplexe zu verstehen. Examples of active substances are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as B. Prunusextrakt, bamboo extract, linden blossom extract and vitamin complexes to understand.

In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung enthaltend die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen mindestens eine Verbindung ausgewählt aus Vitaminen, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Glycerylglucose und Pflanzenextrakten. In a preferred embodiment of the invention containing the preparations according to the invention at least one compound selected from vitamins, allantoin, bisabolol, glyceryl glucose and plant extracts.

In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung enthaltend die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen mindestens eine Verbindung ausgewählt aus Tocopherol, Tocopherolacetat, Tocopherolpalmitat, Ascorbinsäure, Harnstoff, ß-Glucane, Retinol, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Phytantriol, Panthenol, AHA-Säuren, Pflanzenextrakten und Mischungen daraus. In a preferred embodiment of the invention containing the preparations according to the invention at least one compound selected from tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, urea, ß-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, plant extracts and mixtures thereof.

Die folgenden Beispiele sollen die Erfindung erläutern, aber nicht einschränken. W/O-Emulsionen The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention. W / O emulsions,

1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Triglycerindiisostearat 1 ,0 0,5 0,25 2,0 3,0Triglycerol diisostearate 1, 0 0.5 0.25 2.0 3.0

Diglycerindipolyhydroxystearat 1 ,0 1 ,5 1 ,75 3,0 2,0Diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate 1, 0 1, 5 1, 75 3.0 2.0

Paraffinöl 12,5 10,0 8,0 5,0 1 1 ,5Paraffin oil 12.5 10.0 8.0 5.0 1 1, 5

Vaseline 8,0 6,0 5,0 12,0 2,5 hydrierte Kokosglyceride 2,0 1 ,0 2,5 5,0 0,25Vaseline 8.0 6.0 5.0 12.0 2.5 hydrogenated coconut glycerides 2.0 1, 0 2.5 5.0 0.25

Decyloleat 0,5 0,75 1 ,0 2,0 0,25Decyl oleate 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2.0 0.25

Octyldodecanol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 3,0 0,25Octyldodecanol 0.5 1, 0.75 3.0 0.25

Aluminiumstearat 0,4 0,3 0,6 1 ,0 0,05Aluminum stearate 0.4 0.3 0.6 1, 0.05

Dicaprylylcarbonat 0,1 0,05 0,15 0,5 1 ,0 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,5 0,75 1 ,0 2,5 5,0Dicaprylyl carbonate 0.1 0.05 0.15 0.5 1, 0 hydrogenated castor oil 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2.5 5.0

Silicon Elastomer Gel 7,5 12,5 2,5 5 20Silicone Elastomer Gel 7.5 12.5 2.5 5 20

Magnesiumsulfat 0,5 0,6 0,5 0,7 1 ,0Magnesium sulfate 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.7 1, 0

Glycerin 3,0 5,0 10,0 15,0 1 ,5Glycerine 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1, 5

Zitronensäure 0,2 0,1 0,2 0,3 1 ,0Citric acid 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.3 1, 0

Natriumeitrat 0,2 0.05 0.4 0.3 2,0Sodium citrate 0.2 0.05 0.4 0.3 2.0

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Parfüm q.s, q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s,Perfume q.s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s,

Ethanol 2,0 — 5,0 — —Ethanol 2.0 - 5.0 - -

Capryl-/Caprinsäuretriglycerid 2,0 2,5 3,0 5,0 0,5Caprylic / Capric Acid Triglyceride 2.0 2.5 3.0 5.0 0.5

Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

W/O-Emulsionen W / O emulsions,

6 7 8 9 10 6 7 8 9 10

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearat — 0,5 0,25 — 3,0PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate - 0.5 0.25 - 3.0

Lanolin Alcohol 1 ,0 1 ,5 1 ,75 3,0 —Lanolin Alcohol 1, 0 1, 5 1, 75 3.0 -

Paraffinöl 12,5 10,0 8,0 5,0 10,5Paraffin oil 12.5 10.0 8.0 5.0 10.5

Vaseline 8,0 6,0 5,0 12,0 2,5 hydrierte Kokosglyceride 2,0 1 ,0 2,5 5,0 0,25Vaseline 8.0 6.0 5.0 12.0 2.5 hydrogenated coconut glycerides 2.0 1, 0 2.5 5.0 0.25

Hydriertes Polyisobuten 0,5 0,75 1 ,0 2,0 0,25Hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1, 2.0 2.0 0.25

Octyldodecanol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 3,0 0,25Octyldodecanol 0.5 1, 0.75 3.0 0.25

Aluminiumstearat 0,4 0,3 0,6 1 ,0 0,05Aluminum stearate 0.4 0.3 0.6 1, 0.05

Dicaprylylcarbonat 0,1 0,05 0,15 0,5 1 ,0 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,5 0,75 1 ,0 2,5 5,0Dicaprylyl carbonate 0.1 0.05 0.15 0.5 1, 0 hydrogenated castor oil 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2.5 5.0

Microcrystalline Cellulose 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 0,1Microcrystalline cellulose 0,5 1, 0 0,75 0,25 0,1

Magnesiumsulfat 0,5 0,6 0,5 0,7 1 ,0Magnesium sulfate 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.7 1, 0

Glycerin 3,0 5,0 10,0 15,0 1 ,5Glycerine 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1, 5

Zitronensäure 0,2 0,1 0,2 0,3 1 ,0Citric acid 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.3 1, 0

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Parfüm q,s, q,s, q.s, q,s, q,s,Perfume q, s, q, s, q.s, q, s, q, s,

1 ,3 Butylenglykol 2,0 — 5,0 — —1, 3 butylene glycol 2.0 - 5.0 - -

Capryl-/Caprinsäuretriglycerid 2,0 2,5 3,0 5,0 0,5Caprylic / Capric Acid Triglyceride 2.0 2.5 3.0 5.0 0.5

Silicon Elastomer Gel 5,0 — — 3,0 —Silicone Elastomer Gel 5.0 - 3.0 -

Talkum — — 0,05 — 0,1Talc - - 0.05 - 0.1

Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

W/S-Emulsion W / S-emulsion

11 12 13 14 15 11 12 13 14 15

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 1 ,0 — ~ 3,0 5,0Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 1, 0 - ~ 3.0 5.0

Cylomethicon + PEG/PPG-18/18 10,0 12,5 25 Cylomethicone + PEG / PPG-18/18 10.0 12.5 25

Dimethicon  dimethicone

(90:10)  (90:10)

cyclisches Silikonöl (Cyclomethicon) 12,5 15 22,0 20,0 15,5 lineares Silikonöl (Dimethicon) 5,0 13,0 5,0 12,0 15,0 hydriertes Polyisobuten 0,5 0,75 1 ,0 2,0 0,25cyclic silicone oil (cyclomethicone) 12.5 15 22.0 20.0 15.5 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 13.0 5.0 12.0 15.0 hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2 , 0 0.25

Octyldodecanol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 3,0 0,25Octyldodecanol 0.5 1, 0.75 3.0 0.25

Panthenol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 0,1Panthenol 0,5 1, 0 0,75 0,25 0,1

Natriumchlorid 2,0 0,6 2,5 0,7 1 ,0Sodium chloride 2.0 0.6 2.5 0.7 1, 0

Glycerin 3,0 5,0 10,0 15,0 1 ,5Glycerine 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1, 5

Zitronensäure 0,2 0,1 0,2 0,3 1 ,0Citric acid 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.3 1, 0

Natriumeitrat 1 ,0 0,1 0,4 0,9 2,5Sodium citrate 1, 0 0.1 0.4 0.9 2.5

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Parfüm q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s,Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s,

Microcrystalline Cellulose 1 ,0 0,1 0,5 0,25 0,1 modifizierte Stärke — 2,5 — 0,15 ~Microcrystalline cellulose 1, 0 0,1 0,5 0,25 0,1 modified starch - 2,5 - 0,15 ~

Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

W/S-Emulsionen W / S emulsions

16 17 18 19 20 16 17 18 19 20

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 1 ,0 — — 3,0 5,0Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 1, 0 - - 3.0 5.0

Cylomethicon + PEG/PPG-18/18 10,0 12,5 25 Cylomethicone + PEG / PPG-18/18 10.0 12.5 25

Dimethicon  dimethicone

(90:10)  (90:10)

cyclisches Silikonöl (Cyclomethicon) 12,5 15 8,0 20,0 17,5 lineares Silikonöl (Dimethicon) 5,0 13,0 5,0 12,0 15,0 hydriertes Polyisobuten 0,5 0,75 1 ,0 2,0 0,25cyclic silicone oil (cyclomethicone) 12.5 15 8.0 20.0 17.5 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 13.0 5.0 12.0 15.0 hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2 , 0 0.25

Octyldodecanol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 3,0 0,25Octyldodecanol 0.5 1, 0.75 3.0 0.25

Panthenol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 0,1Panthenol 0,5 1, 0 0,75 0,25 0,1

Natriumchlorid 2,0 0,6 2,5 0,7 1 ,0Sodium chloride 2.0 0.6 2.5 0.7 1, 0

Glycerin 3,0 5,0 10,0 15,0 1 ,5Glycerine 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1, 5

Milchsäure 0,2 0,1 0,2 — —Lactic acid 0.2 0.1 0.2 - -

Natriumlactat 0,2 1 ,0 0.05 — —Sodium lactate 0.2 1, 0 0.05 - -

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Parfüm q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s,Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s,

Microcrystalline Cellulose 1 ,0 0,1 1 ,5 2,5 0,1Microcrystalline cellulose 1, 0 0.1 1, 5 2.5 0.1

Stearyldimethicon 0,5 — 0,7 — — modifizierte Stärke — 2,5 — 0,15 —Stearyl dimethicone 0,5 - 0,7 - - modified starch - 2,5 - 0,15 -

Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Silikon in Wasser-Emulsion Silicone in water emulsion

21 22 23 24 25 21 22 23 24 25

Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16 1 ,0 2,0 8,0 3,0 5,0 Dimethicone, Caprylic/Caprictriglycerid Bis-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 1, 0 2.0 8.0 3.0 5.0 Dimethicone, caprylic / capric triglyceride

cyclisches Silikonöl (Cyclomethicon) 12,5 15 25,0 10,0 7,5 lineares Silikonöl (Dimethicon) 5,0 15,0 5,0 12,0 15,0cyclic silicone oil (cyclomethicone) 12.5 15 25.0 10.0 7.5 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 15.0 5.0 12.0 15.0

Octyldodecanol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 3,0 0,25Octyldodecanol 0.5 1, 0.75 3.0 0.25

Glycerin 5,0 7,5 10,0 3,0 1 ,0Glycerin 5.0 7.5 10.0 3.0 1, 0

Panthenol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 0,1Panthenol 0,5 1, 0 0,75 0,25 0,1

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Parfüm q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s,Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s,

Stearyldimethicon 0,5 — 0,7 — — modifizierte Stärke — 2,5 — 0,15 —Stearyl dimethicone 0,5 - 0,7 - - modified starch - 2,5 - 0,15 -

Wasser ad ad ad ad ad Water ad ad ad ad ad

100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

O W-Emulsion O W emulsion

26 27 28 29 30 26 27 28 29 30

Glycerylsteratcitrat 1.0 1.5 1 ,5 0,5 0,25Glyceryl sterate citrate 1.0 1.5 1, 5 0.5 0.25

Cetylstearylalkohol 2,5 5 0,5 2,0 1 ,5Cetyl stearyl alcohol 2.5 5 0.5 2.0 1, 5

Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamat 5,0 3,0 2,0 2,0 5,0Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 5.0

Ethylhexylglycerin 1 — 0,5 1 —Ethylhexylglycerol 1 - 0.5 l -

Aluminiumchlorhydrat — 1 0,02 1 —Aluminum Chlorohydrate - 1 0.02 1 -

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Ethanol — — 3,0 1 —Ethanol - - 3.0 1 -

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyitairat/VP 0,5 0,75 0,5 2,0 0,25 Copolymer Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyitairate / VP 0.5 0.75 0.5 2.0 0.25 Copolymer

Blauer, wasserlöslicher Farbstoff (Blue 0,5 1 ,0 0,4 3,0 0,25 No.1 )  Blue, water-soluble dye (Blue 0.5 1, 0 0.4 3.0 0.25 No.1)

Carbomer — — 0,2 — 0,1 Carbomer - - 0.2 - 0.1

Phosphatierte Stärke 1 ,0 — 4,0 — 0,5Phosphated starch 1, 0 - 4.0 - 0.5

8-Hexadecen-1 ,16-dicarbonsäure 0,5 0,75 1 ,0 1 ,5 2,58-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid 0.5 0.75 1, 0 1, 5 2.5

Octyldodecanol 0,5 — 1 ,0 — 2,0Octyl dodecanol 0.5-1.0-0.2

Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid — — 1 ,0 — 0,5Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - - 1, 0 - 0.5

Myristylmyristat — 1 ,5 1 ,0 2,5 —Myristyl myristate - 1, 5 1, 0 2,5 -

Parfüm q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s,Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s,

Meeressalz — — 0,01 0,5 —Sea salt - - 0,01 0,5 -

Glycerin 5 10 7,5 15 7,5Glycerol 5 10 7.5 15 7.5

Tocopherolacetat 0,5 0,25 0,5 0,1 —Tocopherol acetate 0.5 0.25 0.5 0.1 -

Titandioxid — 2,5 1 ,2 0,15 -Titanium dioxide - 2.5 1, 2 0.15 -

Wasser ad ad ad ad ad Water ad ad ad ad ad

100 100 100 100 100 O/W-Emulsion 100 100 100 100 100 O / W emulsion

31 32 33 34 35 31 32 33 34 35

Polyethylenglycol(21 )stearylether 1 — 2,5 2 1 ,5Polyethylene glycol (21) stearyl ether 1 - 2.5 2 1, 5

Polyethylenglycol(2)stearylether 1 — 5,5 3 7,5Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether 1-5.5 3 7.5

Cetearylglucosid — 8 — — —Cetearyl glucoside - 8 - - -

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Cyclomethicon 12,5 15 28,0 25,0 17,5Cyclomethicone 12.5 15 28.0 25.0 17.5

Dimethicon 5,0 13,0 5,0 12,0 15,0Dimethicone 5.0 13.0 5.0 12.0 15.0

Behenylalkohol 3 2 — 1 —Behenyl alcohol 3 2 - 1 -

Stearylalkohol 3 2 — 2 —Stearyl alcohol 3 2 - 2 -

Cetylstearylalkohol 3 4 — — 2 hydriertes Polyisobuten 0,5 0,75 1 ,0 2,0 0,25Cetylstearyl alcohol 3 4 - - 2 hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1, 2.0 2.0 0.25

Octyldodecanol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 3,0 0,25Octyldodecanol 0.5 1, 0.75 3.0 0.25

Glycerin 5 10 15 3 7,5Glycerin 5 10 15 3 7.5

Panthenol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 0,1Panthenol 0,5 1, 0 0,75 0,25 0,1

Parfüm q.s, q,s, q.s, q,s, q.s, modifizierte Stärke 0,5 — — 0,15 ~Perfume q.s, q, s, q.s, q, s, q.s, modified starch 0.5 - - 0.15 ~

Wasser ad ad ad ad ad Water ad ad ad ad ad

100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

O/W-Emulsion O / W emulsion

36 37 38 39 40 36 37 38 39 40

Glycerylsteratcitrat 1 ,0 0,5 0,1 0,5 0,3Glyceryl sterate citrate 1, 0 0.5 0.1 0.5 0.3

Polyethylenglycol(20)cetearylether 10,0 1.0 5 ~ ~Polyethylene glycol (20) cetearyl ether 10.0 1.0 5 ~~

Triglycerinmethylglucosedistearat — — — — 2,5Triglycerol methyl glucose distearate - - - - 2.5

Cyclomethicon ~ — ~ 1 ~Cyclomethicone ~ - ~ 1 ~

Dimethicon 0,5 3,0 0,75 1 ,5 0,2Dimethicone 0.5 3.0 0.75 1, 5 0.2

Behenylalkohol 1 — 2 1 0,2Behenyl alcohol 1 - 2 1 0.2

Dicaprylylcarbonat 3 5 10 15 5Dicaprylyl carbonate 3 5 10 15 5

Stearylalkohol — — — 1 0,2Stearyl alcohol - - - 1 0.2

Cetylstearylalkohol — — 1 1 0,2Cetylstearyl alcohol - - 1 1 0.2

Tocopherol 0,5 0,5 0,75 0,25 0,1Tocopherol 0.5 0.5 0.75 0.25 0.1

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Octyldodecanol 0,5 — 0,75 3,0 0,25Octyl dodecanol 0.5-0.75 3.0 0.25

Panthenol 0,5 — 0,75 0,25 0,1Panthenol 0,5 - 0,75 0,25 0,1

Carbomer 0,05 0,35 0,15 0,1 —Carbomer 0.05 0.35 0.15 0.1 -

Parfüm q,s, q>s, q,s, q,s, q,s,Perfume q, s, q> s, q, s, q, s, q, s,

Sorbitol 10 — ~ 5 —Sorbitol 10 - ~ 5 -

Butylenglykol — — — 5 10Butylene glycol - - - 5 10

Propylenglykol — — 10 5 —Propylene Glycol - - 10 5 -

Glycerin — 7,5 — — —Glycerol - 7.5 - - -

Wasser ad ad ad ad ad Water ad ad ad ad ad

100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

O/W-Emulsion O / W emulsion

41 42 43 44 45 41 42 43 44 45

Glycerylsteratcitrat 1 ,0 0,75 0,1 0,5 0,3Glyceryl sterate citrate 1, 0 0.75 0.1 0.5 0.3

Polyethylenglycol(20)cetearylether 1.0 — 2 1 ,5 -Polyethylene glycol (20) cetearyl ether 1.0 - 2 1, 5 -

Triglycerinmethylglucosedistearat — 5,5 — — 2,5Triglycerol methyl glucose distearate - 5.5 - 2.5

Ethylbutylacetylaminopropionat 5 10 15 20 7,5Ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate 5 10 15 20 7.5

Cyclomethicon 2 4 6 1 3Cyclomethicone 2 4 6 1 3

Dimethicon ~ 0,5 0,75 — —Dimethicone ~ 0.5 0.75 - -

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Behenylalkohol 1 — 2 1 0,2Behenyl alcohol 1 - 2 1 0.2

Stearylalkohol — 1 — 1 0,2Stearyl alcohol - 1 - 1 0.2

Cetylstearylalkohol — — 1 1 0,2 medizinisches Weißöl 0,5 0,75 1 ,0 2,0 0,25Cetylstearyl alcohol - - 1 1 0.2 medicinal white oil 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2.0 0.25

Octyldodecanol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 3,0 0,25Octyldodecanol 0.5 1, 0.75 3.0 0.25

Panthenol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 0,1Panthenol 0,5 1, 0 0,75 0,25 0,1

Carbomer 0,05 0,1 0,15 0,1 —Carbomer 0.05 0.1 0.15 0.1 -

Parfüm q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s,Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s,

Dicaprylylcarbonat 3 5 10 15 5Dicaprylyl carbonate 3 5 10 15 5

Tocopherol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 0,1Tocopherol 0.5 1, 0.75 0.25 0.1

Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid 1 2 3 5 10 modifizierte Stärke — 2,5 — 0,15 —Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 1 2 3 5 10 modified starch - 2.5 - 0.15 -

Glycerin 3 5 8 12 10Glycerol 3 5 8 12 10

Wasser ad ad ad ad ad Water ad ad ad ad ad

100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

Silikon-Hautpfleqeöle Silicone Hautpfleqeöle

46 47 48 49 50 cyclisches Silikonöl (Cyclomethicon) ad ad ad ad ad  46 47 48 49 50 cyclic silicone oil (cyclomethicone) ad ad ad ad ad

100 100 100 100 100 lineare Silikonöl (Dimethicon) 5,0 7,5 5,0 8,5 13,5 100 100 100 100 100 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 7.5 5.0 8.5 13.5

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Dimethiconol 0,25 3,5 5,0 3,5 2,75Dimethiconol 0.25 3.5 5.0 3.5 2.75

Parfüm q,s, q,s, q,s, q.s, — Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q.s, -

Hvdrodispersionsqel Hvdrodispersionsqel

51 52 53 54 55 51 52 53 54 55

Silikonöl, cyclisch 8 10 5 3 —Silicone oil, cyclic 8 10 5 3 -

Silikonöl, linear — — — — 3Silicone oil, linear - - - - 3

Dimethiconol 1 2 3 — 3Dimethiconol 1 2 3 - 3

Ethanol 1 ,0 5,0 7,5 1 ,5 3,0Ethanol 1, 0 5.0 7.5 1, 5 3.0

Natriumpolyacrylat 0,2 0,3 0,3 0,4 0,10Sodium polyacrylate 0.2 0.3 0.3 0.4 0.10

Methylpropandiol 2 3 4 5 —Methylpropanediol 2 3 4 5 -

Glycerin 9 15 5 7,5 25Glycerol 9 15 5 7,5 25

Carbomer 0,2 0,3 0,2 0,4 0,15Carbomer 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.4 0.15

Acrylates/C10-30Alkyl Acrylate 0,2 0,15 0,3 0,4 0,10Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylates 0.2 0.15 0.3 0.4 0.10

Crosspolymer Crosspolymer

Carrageenan (Chondrus Crispus) — — — — 2 Carrageenan (Chondrus Crispus) - - - - 2

Hamamelis Extrakt 0,1 0,2 0,3 0,4 —Hamamelis extract 0,1 0,2 0,3 0,4 -

Parfüm q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1 0,5 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1 0.5 3.0 0.22 0.075

Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Duschformulierungen Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 shower formulations

1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Menthol 0.1000 0.1000 0.1000Menthol 0.1000 0.1000 0.1000

Glycerylglucosid 0.0100 0.0100 1.0000Glyceryl Glucoside 0.0100 0.0100 1.0000

Octanohydroxamsäure 0,1000 0,5000 3,0 0,22 0,075Octanohydroxamic acid 0.1000 0.5000 3.0 0.22 0.075

Bambusextrakt 0.0100 0.5000Bamboo extract 0.0100 0.5000

Farbstoff Gelborange Dye yellow-orange

Cl 15985 0.0002 Cl 15985 0.0002

Farbstoff Blaugrün  Dye blue-green

Cl 61570 0.0030 0.0050Cl 61570 0.0030 0.0050

Farbstoff Blau Dye blue

Cl 42090 0.0006 Cl 42090 0.0006

Polyquaternium-7 5.0000 5.0000 5.0000 3.0000 5.0000 Polyquaternium-7 5.0000 5.0000 5.0000 3.0000 5.0000

Mandelöl 0.0100 0.5000Almond oil 0.0100 0.5000

PEG-7 Glycerylcocoat 2.0000 1.7500 2.0000 1.7500 2.5000PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 2.0000 1.7500 2.0000 1.7500 2.5000

PEG-40 hydriertes Rizinusöl 0.6000 0.7000 0.6000 0.5000 0.6000PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.6000 0.7000 0.6000 0.5000 0.6000

Parfüm 1.0000 1.0000 1.1000 1.0000 1.1000Perfume 1.0000 1.0000 1.1000 1.0000 1.1000

Zitronensäure 0.2500 0.3400 0.2500 0.3500 0.2500Citric Acid 0.2500 0.3400 0.2500 0.3500 0.2500

Glycoldistearat + Glycerin + Laureth- 4 + Cocamidopropylbetain 2.0000 Glycol distearate + glycerol + laureth-4 + cocamidopropyl betaine 2.0000

Styren/Acrylatcopolymer 1.0000 1.0000  Styrene / acrylate copolymer 1.0000 1.0000

Natriumbenzoat 0.4500 0.4500 0.4500 0.4500 0.4500 Sodium benzoate 0.4500 0.4500 0.4500 0.4500 0.4500

Natriumsalicylat 0.3000 0.4000 0.3000 0.4000 0.3000Sodium salicylate 0.3000 0.4000 0.3000 0.4000 0.3000

PEG-200 hydriertes Glycerylpalmat 0.6000 0.0500 0.3000 0.1000 0.3000PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palate 0.6000 0.0500 0.3000 0.1000 0.3000

Natriumchlorid 0.1000 0.1000 0.1100Sodium chloride 0.1000 0.1000 0.1100

Ethanol 1.0000 1.0000 1.5000Ethanol 1.0000 1.0000 1.5000

Cocamidopropylbetain (34%) + 16.200 16.200 16.200 15.200 Glycerin 16.2000 0 0 0 0Cocamidopropylbetaine (34%) + 16,200 16,200 16,200 15,200 glycerol 16,2000 0 0 0 0

Natriumlaurethsulfat 70%ig 9.3000 9.3000 9.3000 9.3000 9.3000Sodium laureth sulfate 70% 9.3000 9.3000 9.3000 9.3000 9.3000

Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Claims

Patentansprüche: claims: 1. Verwendung einer oder mehrerer physiologisch unbedenklicher Hydroxamsäuren zum Erzielen oder Steigern der Stabilität kosmetischer Zubereitungen welche in Form von OW-, W/O, W/O/W-, bzw. O/W/O-Emulsionen, Hydrodispersionen, Oleodispersionen, Hydrogelen oder Oleogelen vorliegen. 1. Use of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids for achieving or increasing the stability of cosmetic preparations which in the form of OW, W / O, W / O / W, or O / W / O emulsions, hydrodispersions, oleodispersions, hydrogels or oleogels. 2. Verwendung einer oder mehrerer physiologisch unbedenklicher Hydroxamsäuren zum Erzielen oder Steigern der Stabilität kosmetischer Wirkstoffe in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen . 2. Use of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids for achieving or increasing the stability of cosmetic active ingredients in cosmetic or dermatological preparations. 3. Verwendung einer oder mehrerer physiologisch unbedenklicher Hydroxamsäuren zum Erzielen oder Steigern der Stabilität kosmetischer Farbstoffe in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen . 3. Use of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids for achieving or increasing the stability of cosmetic dyes in cosmetic or dermatological preparations. 4. Verwendung einer oder mehrerer physiologisch unbedenklicher Hydroxamsäuren als Chelatbildner für zwei- oder mehrwertige Metallionen in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen. 4. Use of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids as chelating agents for divalent or polyvalent metal ions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations. 5. Verwendung nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Hydroxamsäure oder die Hydroxamsäuren einem Gehalt von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,05 - 3,0 Gew.-%, vorliegt oder vorliegen, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung. 5. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydroxamic acid or hydroxamic acids have a content of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 - 3.0 wt .-%, is present or present, in each case on the total weight of the composition. 6. Verwendung nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß als Hydroxamsäure die Octanohydroxamsäure gewählt wird. 6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydroxamic acid Octanohydroxamsäure is selected. 7. Stoffkombinationen aus einer oder mehreren physiologisch unbedenklichen Hydroxamsäuren und einem oder mehreren Parfumstoffen 7. Substance combinations of one or more physiologically acceptable hydroxamic acids and one or more perfumes
PCT/EP2012/075689 2011-12-19 2012-12-17 Use of hydroxamic acids for stabilizing cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations Ceased WO2013092448A2 (en)

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Citations (2)

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DE3314742A1 (en) 1983-04-23 1984-10-25 Degussa Ag, 6000 Frankfurt NATURAL OXIDIC OR SILICATIC FILLERS MODIFIED ON THE SURFACE, A METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION AND THEIR USE
WO2009070736A1 (en) 2007-11-29 2009-06-04 Inolex Investment Corporation Preservatives for cosmetic, toiletry and pharmaceutical compositions

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2060764A1 (en) * 1970-12-10 1972-06-22 Henkel & Cie Gmbh Synergistic, antimicrobial combinations of active ingredients and their use in antimicrobial agents
DE2400919A1 (en) * 1974-01-09 1975-07-17 Eisai Co Ltd Excrement smells e.g. from drains inhibited - with liq. or solid deodorant compsns contg. hydroxamic acid derivs
FR2777193B1 (en) * 1998-04-14 2001-06-08 Coletica PARTICLE WITH A CHELATING HYDROXAMIC GROUP OF METAL IONS AND THEIR USE IN COSMETICS OR PHARMACY
DE10050155A1 (en) * 2000-10-11 2002-04-18 Beiersdorf Ag Stabilization of cosmetic or dermatological emulsions, hydrogels or oleogels useful eg as skin-care or make-up compositions is by addition of desferrioxamine
DE10145111A1 (en) * 2001-09-13 2003-04-03 Beiersdorf Ag Chitosan is used for stabilization of cosmetic or dermatological skin-care formulation in form of emulsion, hydrodispersion, oleodispersion, hydrogel or oleogel
DE10217255A1 (en) * 2002-04-18 2003-11-06 Beiersdorf Ag Phytochelatins are used to increase the stability of cosmetic compositions which are in the form of emulsions, dispersions or gels
KR20130050395A (en) * 2004-03-26 2013-05-15 디에스엠 아이피 어셋츠 비.브이. Composition comprising an hdac inhibitor in combination with a retinoid
DE102004057858A1 (en) * 2004-10-15 2006-06-29 Henkel Kgaa Cosmetic compositions for oral and dental hygiene
EP2441823A1 (en) * 2010-10-14 2012-04-18 Unilever Plc, A Company Registered In England And Wales under company no. 41424 of Unilever House Particulate detergent compositions comprising surfactant, carbonate, and hydroxamate

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3314742A1 (en) 1983-04-23 1984-10-25 Degussa Ag, 6000 Frankfurt NATURAL OXIDIC OR SILICATIC FILLERS MODIFIED ON THE SURFACE, A METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION AND THEIR USE
WO2009070736A1 (en) 2007-11-29 2009-06-04 Inolex Investment Corporation Preservatives for cosmetic, toiletry and pharmaceutical compositions

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