EP2178494A2 - Novel dipolar ionic compounds comprising formulations and the use thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to formulations comprising novel dipolar ionic compounds and the use of said formulations as cosmetics.

Description

Containing new zwitterionic compounds

Formulations and their use

Field of the invention:

The invention relates to formulations containing novel zwitterionic compounds, such as the use of these formulations as cosmetics.

State of the art:

The hitherto known surface-active glycinate compounds, such as e.g. Cocoamidopropyl betaines are used, for example, as amphoteric surfactants, in particular for hair and skin cleansing preparations such as shampoos, skin-friendly foam and shower gels, intimate and personal care products. Among other things, these improve the dermatological properties of anionic and nonionic surfactants and cause a pleasant feeling on the skin.

In addition, the betaines can be used with advantage in detergents, such as dishwashing detergents and mild detergents. The betaines of the prior art are, in particular, fatty acid amidopropylbetaines whose fatty acid radicals in the mixture generally have from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Compounds of this type are described, for example, in EP 711545.

Due to their surfactant properties, prior art betaines have the ability to form a dense and creamy foam which is also useful in the art Presence of other surfactants, soaps and additives remains stable over a long period of time, combined with good cleaning properties without irritating side effects. The preparation of betaines is described in detail in the pertinent patent and technical literature (US Pat. No. 3,225,074). In general, compounds containing tertiary amine nitrogen atoms are reacted with CO-halocarboxylic acids or their salts in aqueous or aqueous media. Compounds which contain tertiary amine nitrogen atoms are, in particular, fatty acid amides of the general formula

R ³ -CONH- (CH ₂ ) _m -NR ⁴ R ⁵

in which R ^{3 is} the alkyl radical of a fatty acid, R ⁴ and R ⁵ denote identical or different alkyl radicals having 1-4 C atoms and m = 1-3 can be.

The alkyl radical R ³ is derived in this case usually from the natural or synthetic fatty acids having 6 to 20 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

Suitable fatty acids are, for example, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, caproic acid, linolenic acid, ricinoleic acid.

Frequently used are the naturally occurring fatty acid mixtures having a chain length of 8-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut fatty acid or palm kernel fatty acid, which can optionally be cured by suitable hydrogenation methods.

The cornea (stratum corneum, SC), which is the outermost layer of the skin, is considered important Barrier layer of particular importance for protection against

Environmental influences. To maintain its smoothness, elasticity and smoothness, the skin needs an optimum

Water. These findings were used in fundamental work and in a. confirmed by Jacobi and Schuleit and Szakall

(Jacobi, J. Appl. Physiol. 12 (3), 403-7, May 1958;

Schneider W & Schuleit H, Arch. Klein. Exp. Dermatol. 193

(5), 434-59, Dec. 1951; Szakall A, Arch. Klein. Exp.

Dermatol. 206, 374-9, 1957).

Every day, humans release several deciliters up to several liters of water through the skin to the environment. The water in the skin comes from various sources and is according to recent findings, both as a vapor and in liquid form and adsorbed to proteins. It is not known how much water the epidermis contains, but it can be assumed that some layers of the stratum corneum have a water content of up to 30%.

It is safe to assume that water is able to migrate through different layers of the skin. For the diffusion of water through the layers of the skin, there are various models, of which until now no conclusive could be proved:

Analogous to hydrophobic substances, which can penetrate into the horny layer through lipid pores, the water should be transported through specific pores of water, which should have a diameter of 15-25 Å.

Another approach postulates that the stratum corneum should be traversed by water-filled channels. By Diffraction experiments with X-rays have shown that there are gaps in a lipid bilayer system that are large enough to allow condensed water to accumulate there.

In order to regulate the moisture of the skin, it is undoubtedly essential to have, in addition to an intact permeability barrier, the presence of water-binding substances which are formed in the epidermal stratum corneum. These natural moisturizing agents NMF (natural moisturizing factors) contained in the epidermis bind moisture in the skin. They are a mixture of different compounds and consist of 40% amino acids, 12% pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, 7% urea and 41% inorganic and organic salts, mostly lactates.

Drastic environmental conditions, such as Low temperatures or too low humidity in winter, contribute significantly to the fact that the skin becomes rough and dry. The moisturizers contained in the epidermis are also easily removed by frequent washing or bathing. This allows more water to escape from deeper skin layers and the so-called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases, causing a drying of the skin. It is believed that the loss of natural moisturizers correlates with a reduction in water content and reduced softness of the keratin layer.

Sensory manifested by symptoms such as an increasingly rough, flaky, dull and dull-looking skin surface. A loss of flexibility and a Impairment of the barrier function of the skin, which depends on the water-binding capacity of the stratum corneum, is the result. This further reduces the water content of the horny layer.

Careful care to prevent permanently dry skin is not only an aesthetic requirement, but also a tried and tested remedy to effectively prevent chronic skin diseases. Here, the moisture regulation of the skin can be effectively supported by topical application of appropriate formulations.

There are a variety of in vivo methods for determining the moisture content of the skin known. It determines physical parameters such as the conductivity and dielectric properties (capacity) of the horny layer, which correlate directly with skin moisture.

To determine the hydration of the stratum corneum, various measuring devices are available, e.g. the

Corneometer types CM 820 and CM 825 (Courage + Khazaka) as well as the "dermal phase meter" Skicon 200 (Nova). These non-invasive and simple methods allow one

To quantitatively measure changes in skin moisture. In addition, the elasticity of the skin over the

Dermal Torque Meter (DiaStron) or via the Cutometer

(Courage + Khazaka).

In order to counteract a dry skin condition and to restore the water balance of the skin, there are a number of cosmetic formulations with hydroregulatory effect. These preparations are in the form of emulsions ideal formulations to keep the skin fat and moisture and usually contain a number of active ingredients that perform a protective function when applied, thereby improving the condition of the skin surface and alter the functional state of the skin, for example, by regulating the skin moisture and by nourishing properties under the skin surface come into effect.

There are various mechanisms for positively influencing the epidermal water content by cosmetic ingredients and formulations:

The evaporation of water from the upper skin layers can be prevented by an occlusive lipid or polymer film. As a result, water is released from the lower layers of the skin to the upper layers and sweat is reduced, causing the skin moisture of the upper layers of the SC to rise sharply. Under such occlusive conditions, however, there is typically a build-up of water in the skin and an increased endogenous swelling of the horny layer, which slows the skin's ability to regenerate.

In nourishing cosmetic formulations, it is technically possible to produce cosmetic products that contain more water than the stratum

Corneum and thus upon penetration of the intact formulation

Give water to the SC. Special lipids are also able to reduce transepidermal water loss and can therefore be considered as a kind of moisturizer. Another common approach is the addition of humectants as activating ingredients to cosmetic emulsions, gels or cleansing personal care products, which are intended to ensure the supply of the keratin layer with a sufficient amount of moisture over defined periods of time. Moisturizers are also referred to as moisturizers or humectants and are intended, on the one hand, to retain water in the epidermis and, on the other hand, to reduce the TEWL by stabilizing the barrier function in the upper horny layer.

A variety of such substances are described and are already in use. These usually have the ability to bind water more or less strong and to replace the leached natural substances in whole or in part. In principle, these include hygroscopic substances such as, in particular, polyhydric alcohols, ethoxylated polyols, sugars and polysaccharides, such as, for example, hyaluronic acid and its salts, which play an important role in moisture regulation because they can bind water in the stratum corneum. This ultimately results in an improvement in skin elasticity.

In particular, body cleansing agents, such as shower gels or shampoos, result in a marked change in the lipid composition of the skin, which leads to a reduction in the barrier function of the skin and thus to an increased transepidermal water loss. The literature describes a large number of moisturizers which are used to compensate for this effect, for example bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone (Abil® B 8832, US Pat. Goldschmidt GmbH), glycerol or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate (Tegosoft® GC, Goldschmidt GmbH).

During skin cleansing, skin-specific lipids are washed off by the surfactants used in addition to lipophilic dirt. This effect is often perceived as unpleasant, the skin feels rough and brittle. The skin is also referred to as "dry", but here it is meant the absence of fat. It is therefore possible to add formulations according to the invention, in particular body cleansing compositions, so-called restreasing agents, so that the described degreasing process is reduced. As a result, on the one hand, the washed-off fat can be replaced by the refatting agent, but on the other hand, the degreasing effect of the formulation itself can be reduced by the use of the refining agent.

With regard to formulation, it is difficult and therefore uncommon to use cosmetic oils, for example TEGOSOFT M® (Goldschmidt GmbH, isopropyl myristate), for this purpose because these oils have to be solubilized in a complicated manner. Therefore, hydrophilic products, such as eg TEGOSOFT GC® (Goldschmidt GmbH, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate), which are already solubilized by the excess of the cleaning surfactants, are preferably used as common refatting agents. The analysis of a product database gathering global product innovations in consumer markets ("Global New Products Database": Mintel) showed that 29% of all skin cleansing formulations in the European market (9/05 - 9/06) contained PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate. It is believed that the refatting process takes place during rinse-off of the formulation after the actual wash. When washing with water, the existing solution is diluted until the so-called. CMC (critical micelle concentration) is reached.

With the release of the micellar components (the lipophilic refatting agents, the surfactants and solubilizers), the refatting agents become insoluble again. These lipophilic substances (both skin-specific lipids and emollients / cosmetic oils) precipitate and are absorbed by the skin.

In general, an ideal moisturizer should produce a clear effect even at low concentrations, be non-toxic, very well tolerated by the skin, have high compatibility with other ingredients, have good long-term stability and can be easily incorporated into skin treatment.

It is particularly desirable that a moisturizer can be prepared simply and inexpensively; During production, it should be obtained in a form which ensures easy handling and additionally satisfies the high purity conditions imposed on cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients. A moisturizer should have further, multifunctional properties, ie in addition to the normalization of the water content of the skin continue to have, for example, protective, calming or anti-inflammatory properties.

Despite many years of research into skin moisturizers, the substances currently used as humectants are becoming more accurate View the demands placed on them not completely fair.

The object of the invention was to provide new moisturizers which meet the above criteria.

Description of the invention:

Surprisingly, it has been found that the formulations described below which contain short-chain zwitterionic compounds to a

Improvement of the condition of the skin and especially one

Improve skin hydration. Particularly surprising is an anti-inflammatory effect of inventive formulations on damaged cells.

The present invention therefore relates to formulations as described in claim 1 and the use of these as cosmetics.

Another object of the invention is the use of compounds according to formula I for increasing and / or stabilizing the moisture content of the skin

The formulations according to the invention and their use are described below by way of example, without the invention being restricted to these exemplary embodiments. Wherever ranges, general formulas, or compound classes are given below, they are intended to encompass not only the corresponding regions or groups of compounds that are explicitly mentioned, but also all sub-regions and sub-groups of compounds that may be removed by removing individual values (ranges) or Compounds can be obtained. If documents are cited in the context of the present description, their contents are intended to form part of the disclosure content of the present invention. In the following, "short-chain", zwitterionic, compounds are to be understood as those which have an X with ≦ 5 carbon atoms according to formula I. "Long-chain or long-chain" zwitterionic compounds are to be understood as meaning an X with> 5 Have carbon atoms. All percentages (%) are percentages by weight unless otherwise specified.

Formulations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one compound according to formula I:

Formula I

where n = 1 to 6, preferably 1 to 3, preferably 3 and m = 1 to 4, preferably 1 or 2, and R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are identical or different, aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably to C3-hydrocarbon radicals and are preferably CH3 radicals, and Y is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably -CH ₂ -, and X is a m-bonding radical or a covalent bond, with: for m = l X = a hydrogen or a with at least one OH group of substituted or unsubstituted C 1 -C 4 -hydrocarbon radical and also for m = 2X = direct bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH (OH) -, -CH ₂ CH (OH) - or -CH (OH) CH (OH) - and X for m = 2 is a direct compound or a C 2 to C 8 hydrocarbon radical which is substituted or unsubstituted by at least one OH group and X for m> 2 is a M-bond which is substituted or unsubstituted by at least one OH group Ci to C ₅ hydrocarbon radical, and / or a stereoisomeric form of the compound according to formula I included.

If formulations according to the invention contain at least one compound of the formula I in which m is 2, then X is preferably a direct covalent bond, CH ₂ , CH (OH), CH ₂ CH (OH) or CH (OH) CH (OH), preferably CH ₂ . If formulations according to the invention contain at least one compound of the formula I in which m = 1, then X is preferably ethyl, hydroxymethyl, 1-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 1-hydroxypropyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 3-hydroxypropyl and particularly preferably H. Formulations according to the invention preferably contain compounds according to formula I in which n = 3.

Particularly preferred formulations according to the invention are those which contain at least one compound according to formula I in which R ¹ = R ² = CH ₃ . Preferably, formulations according to the invention contain at least one compound of the formula I in which Y is CH ₂ .

Particular preference is given to formulations containing at least one compound according to formula I in which n = 3, m = 2, R ¹ = R ² = CH ₃ , Y = CH ₂ and X = CH ₂ or n = 3, m = 1 , R ¹ = R ² = CH ₃ , Y = CH ₂ and X = H.

Preferably, formulations according to the invention comprise at least one compound of the formula I in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, and preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% based on the total formulation.

Formulations of the invention may e.g. contain at least one additional component selected from the group of

emollients

Emulsifiers and surfactants Thickener / Viscosity regulator / Stabilizers

UV light protection filters

antioxidants

Hydrotropes (or polyols)

Solids Pearlescent additives

Deodorant and antiperspirant active ingredients

insect repellents

Self

Preservatives Conditioners

perfumes

dyes

Biogenic agents

Care Additive Solvent

As emollients, all cosmetic oils, in particular mono- or diesters of linear and / or branched mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids having 2 to 44 carbon atoms with linear and / or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, can be used. Likewise, the esterification products of aliphatic, difunctional alcohols having 2 to 36 carbon atoms with monofunctional aliphatic carboxylic acids having 1 to 22 carbon atoms used. Furthermore, long-chain aryl esters such as esters of benzoic acid, for example benzoic acid esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or isostearyl benzoate or

Benzoic acid octyl dodecyl ester. Other monoesters suitable as emmolients and oil components are e.g. the methyl esters and isopropyl esters of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as e.g. Methyl laurate, methyl stearate, methyl oleate, methyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate. Other suitable monoesters are e.g. n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-

Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate and esters which are obtainable from technical aliphatic alcohol cuts and technical aliphatic carboxylic acid mixtures, for example esters of unsaturated fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, as is known animal and vegetable fats are accessible. Also suitable, however, are naturally occurring monoester or wax ester mixtures, as present, for example, in jojoba oil or in sperm oil. Suitable dicarboxylic esters are, for example, di-n-butyl adipate, di-n-butyl sebacate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate, D-isotridecyl acelate. Suitable diol esters are, for example, ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di- (2-ethylhexanoate), butanediol diisostearate and neopentyl glycol di-caprylate. Other fatty acid esters used as emmolients may, for example, Ci2-i5-alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate. Also suitable as emollients and oil component are longer chain triglycerides, ie, triple esters of glycerol with three acid molecules, at least one of which is longer chain. Here, by way of example, fatty acid triglycerides are mentioned; As such, for example, natural, vegetable oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil but also the liquid portion of coconut oil or palm kernel oil and animal oils such as tallow oil, the liquid portions of beef tallow or synthetic triglycerides of Caprylic-capric acid mixtures, triglycerides from technical oleic acid, triglycerides with isostearic acid, or from palmitic acid-oleic acid mixtures as emollients and oil components. Furthermore, hydrocarbons, in particular liquid paraffins and isoparaffins can be used. Examples of usable hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, isohexadecane, polydecene, vaseline, paraffin perliquidum, squalane. Furthermore, linear or branched fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol or octyldodecanol, and fatty alcohol ethers such as dicaprylyl ethers can be used. Suitable silicone oils and waxes are, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes, cyclomethylsiloxanes, and also aryl- or alkyl- or alkoxy-substituted polymethylsiloxanes or cyclomethylsiloxanes.

Nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants can be used as emulsifiers or surfactants. As non-ionic emulsifiers or surfactants, compounds from at least one of the following groups can be used:

Adducts of 2 to 100 moles ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group Ci _{2 /} i ₈ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol

Glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products

Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethylene oxide addition products

Addition products of 2 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil

Partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and

12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol,

Pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g., sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g., methyl glucoside,

Butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides

(e.g., cellulose)

Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or

Tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts Polysiloxane-polyether copolymers (dimethicone copolyols), such as eg PEG / PPG-20/6 dimethicones, PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicones, bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicones, PEG -12 or PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-14/4 or 4/12 or 20/20 or 18/18 or 17/18 or 15/15. Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives, such as, for example, lauryl or cetyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1

Dimethicone (ABIL ^® EM 90 (Degussa)) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and

Fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 11 65 574 and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or

Polyglycerol Citric acid esters, e.g. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate,

Glyceryl Oleate Citrate and Dilauryl Citrate.

Anionic emulsifiers or surfactants can be water-solubilizing anionic groups such as e.g. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic radical. Skin-compatible anionic surfactants are known to the skilled worker in large numbers and are commercially available. These may be alkyl sulfates or alkyl phosphates in the form of their alkali, ammonium or alkanolammonium salts, alkyl ether sulfates,

Alkylethercarboxylate, acylsarcosinates and SuIfosuccinate and acylglutamates in the form of their alkali or ammonium salts.

Also cationic emulsifiers and surfactants can be added. As such, in particular quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular those provided with at least one linear and / or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, are used, such as alkyltrimethylammonium halides such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide or Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, but also

Dialkyldimethylammonium halides, e.g. Distearyldimethylammoniumchlorid be used. Furthermore, monoalkylamidoquats, e.g. Palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or corresponding Dialkylamidoquats be used. Furthermore, readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds can be used, which may be quaternized fatty acid esters based on mono-, di- or triethanolamine. Furthermore, alkylguanidinium salts may be added as cationic emulsifiers.

Furthermore, it is possible to use amphoteric surfactants such as e.g. Betaine, amphoacetates or amphopropionates to use together with the polyglycerol esters according to the invention.

Suitable thickeners for thickening oil phases are all thickeners known to the person skilled in the art. In particular, waxes such as hydrogenated castor wax, beeswax or microwax are to be mentioned. It is also possible to use inorganic thickeners, such as silica, alumina or sheet silicates (for example hectorite, laponite, saponite). These inorganic oil phase thickeners may be hydrophobically modified. For the thickening / stabilization of water-in-oil emulsions, it is possible in particular to use aerosils, phyllosilicates and / or metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Zinc stearate can be used.

Examples of viscosity regulators for aqueous surfactant systems include NaCl, low molecular weight nonionic surfactants, such as cocoamides DEA / MEA and laureth-3, or polymers, high molecular weight, associative, highly ethoxylated fatty derivatives, such as PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate.

As UV light protection filters, for example, organic substances capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and those picked up can be used

Energy in the form of longer wavelength radiation, e.g. Heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble UVB sunscreens, e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-

Methylbenzylidene) camphor

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, e.g. 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester,

4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and

4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester esters of cinnamic acid, e.g. 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-

2-ethylhexyl ester, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester

(Octocrylene) esters of salicylic acid, e.g. Salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate,

Salicylic acid homomenthyl ester Derivatives of benzophenone, e.g. 2-hydroxy

4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone esters of benzalmalonic acid, e.g.

4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester triazine derivatives such as 2, 4, 6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3, 5-triazine and octyltriazone. Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Suitable water-soluble UVB sunscreen filters are:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone, e.g. 2-hydroxy

4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.

As a typical UVA sunscreen, in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4 'tert. Butylphenyl) -3- (4' -methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, for example between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. A relatively new class of sunscreen filters are micronized organic pigments, such as 2, 2'-methylene-bis- {6- (2H-) benzotriazole-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3, 3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol} having a particle size of less than 200 nm, which is obtainable, for example, as a 50% aqueous dispersion.

Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the review by P. Finkel in SÖFW Journal 122, 543 (1996).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary UV light protection filters, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. As antioxidants, e.g. Superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E), dibutylhydroxytoluene and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

As the hydrotropes, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols may be used to improve flowability and application properties. Polyols contemplated herein may have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are:

Glycerol alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 daltons

Technical Oligoglyceringemische with an intrinsic degree of condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical Diglyceringemische with a Diglycerine content of 40 to 50 wt .-% Methylol compounds, in particular trimethylolethane,

Trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and

dipentaerythritol

Niedrigalkylgucoside, in particular those having 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, such as

Methyl and butyl glucoside sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol

Sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose

Amino sugars, such as glucamine.

For example, iron oxide pigments, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide particles which are additionally used under "UV protection agents" can be used as solids, and it is also possible to use particles which lead to special sensory effects, such as nylon-12, boron nitride, polymer particles, such as Polyacrylate or polymethacrylate particles or silicone elastomers.

As pearlescing additives, e.g. Glycol distearate or PEG-3 distearate can be used.

Suitable deodorant active ingredients are, for example, odor maskers such as the customary perfume ingredients, odor absorbers, for example the phyllosilicates described in patent publication DE-P 40 09 347, montmorillonite, kaolinite, ileite, beidelite, nontronite, saponite, bentorite, smectite, furthermore zinc salts, for example of ricinoleic acid. Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for incorporation. Germ-inhibiting substances are, for example, 2, 4, 4-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine),

3, 4, 4 '-Trichlorcarbonilid, quaternary ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3, 7, ll-trimethyl-2, 6, 10-dodecatriene-l-ol), ethylhexyl glyceryl ether, polyglyceryl-3-caprylate (TEGO ^® Cosmo P813, Degussa), and in the patent publications DE 198 55 934, DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-42 29 737, DE -42 38 081, DE-43 09 372, DE-43 24 219 and EP 666 732 described effective agents. As antiperspirant actives, astringents can be used, for example, basic aluminum chlorides such as aluminum chlorohydrate ("ACH") and aluminum-zirconium-glycine salts ("ZAG").

As insect repellents, for example, N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or insect repellent 3535 can be used.

As self-tanner, e.g. Dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose are used.

As preservatives, it is possible, for example, to use mixtures of one or more alkylparaben esters with phenoxyethanol. The alkylparaben esters may be methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and / or butylparaben. Instead of phenoxyethanol, other alcohols can be used, such as benzyl alcohol or ethanol. In addition, other common preservatives such as sorbic or benzoic acid, salicylic acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-l, 3-diol,

Chloroacetamide, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, Methylisothiazoline, chloromethylisothiazoline,

Ethylhexylglycerin or caprylyl glycol are used.

As conditioning agents, e.g. organic quaternary compounds such as cetrimonium chloride,

Dicetyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride,

Distearyldimonium chloride, behemmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride,

Palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropylguar

Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or quaternium-80 or also amine derivatives such as e.g. Aminopropyldimethicone or Stearamidopropyldimethylamine be used.

As perfumes, natural or synthetic fragrances or mixtures thereof can be used. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot,

Lemon, oranges), roots, (mace, angelica, celery,

Cardamom, costus, iris, thyme), needles and twigs

(Spruce, fir, pine, pines), resins and balsams

(Galbanum, Elemi, Benzoin, Myrrh, Olibanum, Opoponax). Furthermore, animal raw materials come into question, such as civet and Castoreum. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are ester type products, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are known e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate,

Dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethylacetate,

Linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methyl phenylglycinate, Allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydrocitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones such as the Jonone, CC isomethylionone and methyl cedrylketone to the alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol; the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. Mixtures of different fragrances can be used, which together create an appealing scent. Even low-volatility volatile oils, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as perfumes, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. It may include bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, CC hexyl cinnamic aldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeine gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl and floramate, alone or in mixtures.

Dyes which may be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as described, for example, in the publication "Kosmetische Färbemittel" of the Dye Commission of the Germans Research Community, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp 81 - 106 are compiled. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.

Examples of biogenic active ingredients include tocopherol and derivatives, ascorbic acid and derivatives, retinol and derivatives, deoxyribonucleic acid, coenzyme Q10, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, alpha-hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, amino acids, amino acid derivatives, hyaluronic acid, glucans, creatine and creatine derivatives, guanidine and Guanidine derivatives, ceramides, phytosphingosine and phytosphingosine derivatives, sphingosine and sphingosine derivatives, pseudoceramides, essential oils, peptides, protein hydrolysates, plant extracts and vitamins and vitamin mixtures. These substances can be combined with the novel zwitterionic compounds described in any proportions.

As maintenance additives, e.g. ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters, such as PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, or cationic polymers, such as polyquaternium-7 or polyglycerol esters may be included.

As the solvent, e.g. Propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, glycerol carbonate, water, ethanol, propanol, 1, 3-propanediol can be used.

An object of the invention is the use of formulations according to the invention as a cosmetic.

The compounds of the formula I may be present here preferably in a concentration of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%. The formulation can be prepared as an emulsion; a typical emulsion (W / O or O / W) may contain, for example:

0.05 to 10% by weight of compounds of the formula I,

0 to 10 wt .-%, preferably> 0 to 10 wt .-% of one or more emulsifiers, 0 to 10 wt .-%, preferably> 0 to 10 wt .-% of one or more viscosity regulators or thickeners, 0 to 30 wt .-%, preferably> 0 to 10 wt .-% of one or more oil bodies or emollients, and customary auxiliaries and additives in conventional

Concentrations and ad 100% by weight of solvent.

Preferred emulsifiers and surfactants are the following nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants:

Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, Ci _{2 /} i ₈ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products,

Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their

ethylene oxide,

Addition products of 2 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, Partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose ) and polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearates (TEGO® Care 450 (Degussa), mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts, polysiloxane-polyether copolymers (dimethicone copolyols) Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG-12 or PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-14/4 or 4/12 or 20/20 or 18/18 or 17/18 or 15/15 and Bis -PEG / PPG-14/14-Dimethicone or Bis-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG-16/16 dimethicone,

Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or. corresponding derivatives, e.g. Lauryl or cetyl dimethicone copolyols, especially cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicones (ABIL® EM 90 (Degussa)), citric acid esters, e.g. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate,

Glyceryl oleates citrates and dilauryl citrates, anionic emulsifiers or surfactants with water-solubilizing anionic groups such as e.g. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic moiety, e.g. Alkyl sulfates or alkyl phosphates in the form of their alkali, ammonium or alkanolammonium salts, alkyl ether sulfates,

Alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl sarcosinates and sulfosuccinates and acyl glutamates in the form of their alkali metal or ammonium salts, cationic emulsifiers and surfactants, such as e.g. quaternary ammonium compounds, such as

Alkyltrimethylammoniumhalogenide such as Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or

behenyltrimethylammonium,

Dialkyldimethylammonium halides, e.g. Distearyldimethylammonium chloride, monoalkylamidoquats, e.g.

Palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or corresponding dialkylamidoquats,

Biodegradable quaternary ester compounds such as e.g. quaternized fatty acid esters based on mono-, di- or triethanolamine, and

Alkylguanidinium salts, amphoteric surfactants such as e.g. Betaines, amphoacetates or amphopropionates.

Preferred emollients are:

Mono- or diesters of linear and / or branched mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids having 2 to 44 carbon atoms with linear and / or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, esterification products of aliphatic, difunctional alcohols having 2 to 36 C atoms with monofunctional aliphatic carboxylic acids having 1 to 22 C atoms, methyl esters and isopropyl esters of fatty acids having 12 to 22 C atoms, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, n-butyl

Hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isocetyl palmitate,

Isononyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-

Ethylhexyl palmitate, oleyl erucate,

Esters which are obtainable from technical aliphatic alcohol cuts and technical aliphatic carboxylic acid mixtures, for example esters of unsaturated fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as Naturally occurring monoester or wax ester mixtures as present, for example, in jojoba oil or in sperm oil, dicarboxylic acid esters such as, for example, di-n-butyl adipate, di-n-butyl sebacate, di- ( 2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diol esters such as, for example, ethylene glycol dioleate, propylene glycol di- (2-ethylhexanoate), dicaprylyl carbonate,

Diethylhexyl carbonate, diisononyl carbonate, triglycerides with isostearic acid; Fatty acid triglycerides, such as natural, vegetable oils, e.g.

Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil,

Almond oil, palm oil or avocado oil; synthetic

Triglycerides of caprylic-capric acid mixtures. liquid paraffins and isoparaffins

Isohexadecane, polydecene, vaseline, paraffinum perliquidum,

Squalane Linear or branched fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol or

Octyldodecanol, as well as fatty alcohol ethers such as dicaprylyl ether can be used.

Silicone oils and waxes, e.g. polydimethylsiloxanes

Cyclomethylsiloxanes, as well as aryl- or alkyl- or alkoxy-substituted polymethylsiloxanes or

Cyclomethylsiloxanes Di-PPG-3-myristyl ether adipate or PPG-3-benzyl ether myristate

Propoxylated emollients such as e.g. PPG-3 myristyl ether,

PPG-II stearyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether or PPG-14

Butylehter

Preferred viscosity regulators are:

NaCl, low molecular weight nonionic surfactants, such as cocoamides DEA / MEA and laureth-3, or polymeric, high molecular weight, associative, highly ethoxylated fatty derivatives such as PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate.

Preferred thickeners for thickening oil phases are:

Waxes, such as hydrogenated castor wax, beeswax or

Microwax, inorganic thickening agents such as optionally hydrophobically modified silica, alumina or phyllosilicates, and aerosils, phyllosilicates and / or metal salts of fatty acids, e.g. Zinc stearate.

Formulations according to the invention may be hair care formulations such as shampoos and / or conditioners which exert a mitigating effect on irritated scalp.

The formulations according to the invention can also be used in cosmetic cleansing products. Formulations according to the invention, in particular those for use as a cosmetic cleansing product such as, for example, shower gels, liquid soaps, facial cleansers, bath shampoos, may contain, for example:

0.05 to 10% by weight of compounds of the formula I, 3 to 20% by weight of one or more surfactants, 0 to 10% by weight, preferably> 0 to 10% by weight of one or more viscosity regulators,

0 to 10 wt .-%, preferably> 0 to 10 wt .-% of one or more conditioning agents for the care of

Skin, as well as usual auxiliaries and additives in usual concentrations and ad 100% by weight of solvent.

Preferred surfactants are anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and zwitterionic structure. Preferred anionic surfactants may be the salts of various cations

(Sodium, ammonium or other) of alkyl sulfates or

Alkyl ether sulfates, such as lauryl sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate,

Myristyl ether sulfate or sulfosuccinic acid derivatives.

Preferred zwitterionic surfactants are i.a. Cocoamidopropyl betaine or sultaine. Preferred amphoteric surfactants are amphoaceteins or glycinates, e.g. Sodium cocoamphoacetate or disodium cocoamphodiacetate. Preferred nonionic surfactants may be, for example, alkyl polyglycosides, polyether derivatives (ethoxylated fatty alcohols or fatty acids), polyglycerol derivatives or sugar esters.

Preferred viscosity regulators are NaCl, low molecular weight nonionic surfactants such as Cocoamide DEA / MEA and Laureth-3, or polymeric, high molecular weight, associative, highly ethoxylated fatty derivatives such as PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate.

Preferred conditioning agents are organic quaternary compounds such as cetrimonium chloride,

Dicetyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride,

Palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, guar

Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar

Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or quaternium-80 or also amine derivatives such as e.g. Aminopropyldimethicone or Stearamidopropyldimethylamine

A formulation according to the invention may be used alone or in combination with one or more active ingredients in cleansing or nourishing cosmetic formulations for regulating and improving the moisture content of the skin.

Formulations of the invention may therefore find utility as a skin care, facial, head care, personal care, intimate care, foot care, hair care, nail care, dental care or oral care product. Formulations of the invention may be used in the form of an emulsion, suspension, solution, cream, ointment, paste, gel, oil, powder, aerosol, stick, spray, cleansing product, make-up or sunscreen preparation or a tonic.

Formulations according to the present invention have a moisturizing and soothing effect. The invention therefore relates to the use of the formulation according to the invention for increasing and / or stabilizing the moisture content of the skin.

Formulations according to the invention lower the roughness of stressed skin. Therefore, another object of the invention is the use of the formulations according to the invention for reducing skin roughness.

The compounds according to formula I can e.g. be prepared by the method described below.

This process is characterized in that in a first process step A, a carboxylic acid of formula II

Formula II

with an amine of formula III

Formula I I I

to an amidamine according to formula IV:

Formula IV

Is reacted, where n = 1 to 6 and m = 1 to 4, and R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently identical or different, aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals having 1 to 6

Are carbon atoms, and X is an M-bonding radical or a covalent bond, with for m = 1 X = H, ethyl,

Hydroxymethyl, 1-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 1-hydroxypropyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 3-hydroxypropyl and for m = 2X = direct bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH (OH) -, -CH ₂ CH (OH) - or -CH (OH) CH (OH) - and X for m = 2, a direct compound or substituted with at least one OH group or unsubstituted, 2-bonded Ci- to C ₅ - hydrocarbon radical and X for m> 2 a with at least an OH group of substituted or unsubstituted, m-Cis to Cs hydrocarbon radical and then in process step B the Amidamin der Formel IV obtained in A with a ω-halocarboxylic acids or their salt, preferably metal salt, in particular sodium salt, an acid radical according to Formula V has

Formula V

is converted to the compound of formula I, wherein Z = a halogen and Y is a divalent hydrocarbon radical. As carboxylic acids in process step A, it is possible to use all mono-, di- or polycarboxylic acids or else mixtures of these which fulfill the conditions mentioned for formula II. For the preparation of a di-zwitterionic compound of the formula I where m = 2, preferably carboxylic acids in process step A are oxalic acid (HOOC-COOH), tartronic acid (HOOC-CH ₂ (OH) -COOH), malic acid (HOOC-CH ₂ (OH ) -CH ₂ -COOH) and tartaric acid (HOOC)

CH ₂ (OH) -CH ₂ (OH) -COOH), more preferably malonic acid

(HOOC-CH ₂ -COOH) is used. Preferred carboxylic acids in

Process step A for the preparation of the substance according to

Formula I with preferred m = 1 are lactic acid, propionic acid and glycolic acid, particularly preferred is formic acid (HCOOH).

As the amine component, it is possible to use all suitable amine compounds which satisfy the conditions of the formula III. Preference is given to using 3- (diethylamino) propylamine, 2- (diethylamino) ethylamine or 2- (dimethylamino) ethylamine. Particularly preferred as the amine component is dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA). In step A of the process an acid component according to formula II with an amine component of the formula III at a temperature of 90 ⁰ C to 220 ⁰ C, particularly preferably at a temperature of about 180 ⁰ C is preferably converted to an amide amine of formula IV. Process step A of the process is particularly preferably carried out using a suitable catalyst. Preferably suitable catalysts strong base catalysts such as alkoxides are used, particularly preferred are sodium ethylate, potassium ethylate, sodium methoxide and potassium.

The resulting water in the reaction can be removed from the product. Preferably, the water is distilled off under the reaction conditions and so removed from the product mixture. Especially at temperatures below about 130 ⁰ C, the application of a negative pressure is advantageous to accelerate the removal of water by distilling off.

The following reaction scheme shows a possible reaction course of process step A.

Formula II Formula III Formula IV

Since the salt mixtures formed in process step A are solid at the beginning of the reaction, preference is given in the reverse order to the prior art added the acid component according to formula II in the process to the submitted amine component according to formula III.

In the production of short-chain amidamines according to formula IV, the amidamines of relatively long chain fatty acids known from the state of the art should be taken into account in the salt formation between amine according to formula III and acid according to formula II due to the low molecular weights and thus higher Substance concentration is conditional. For this purpose, in method step A, specially adapted process parameters may be used in such a way that the addition of the carboxylic acid component to the amine component is so slow that the temperature of the reaction mixture does not exceed 130 ^° C., preferably 100 ^° C. during the addition. At higher temperatures, larger amounts of the amine component could be driven off by the resulting water, which can adversely affect the stoichiometry of the feed components. It is preferred to countercool to maintain the said temperature ranges, in order to achieve an economically meaningful dosing.

Process B can be carried out in the presence of a suitable solvent in an amount which ensures the stirring and pumpability of the reaction mixture at any point in the process. The reaction preferably takes place in the presence of water as solvent. The process step B is preferably carried out at a temperature of about 70-100 ⁰ C. The by-produced halide Z can be removed from or left in the reaction solution. If the halide is to be removed, for example, precipitation be used with a suitable solvent or dialysis. Preferred solvent for precipitation is ethanol.

In preferred embodiments of the process, the halide Z remains in the solution.

As monohalogencarboxylic acid or monohalogen carboxylic acid salt having an acid radical according to formula V, it is possible to use all halocarboxylic acids whose acid radicals satisfy the conditions mentioned for formula V. Particularly preferred as the monohalocarboxylic acid salt according to formula V is the monochloroacetate.

As already in process step A, the process step B should also take into account the exothermic effect which, due to the low molecular weight of the short-chain amidine amine component, is greatly increased, in contrast to the processes of the prior art. Therefore, in process step B, the reaction is preferably carried out in the form that during and after complete addition of the halocarboxylic acid component to amide amine component until the decay of the heat of reaction, the reaction temperature is maintained at a maximum of about 70 ⁰ C, which can be optionally countercooled. The subsequent reaction is preferably carried out slightly below the boiling point of the solvent, wherein preferably temperatures in the range of 95-99 ⁰ C are used when using water as a solvent.

The following reaction scheme shows a possible reaction course of process step B.

Formula IV Formula I

The reaction of amidamines of the formula IV to the corresponding compounds of the formula I is carried out as described, preferably in a solvent. The amidamines are preferably used in concentrations of 3 to 75%, preferably 5 to 50%. The solution of compounds according to formula I obtained in this process step can be used with or without further concentration or desalting steps, e.g. for the preparation of cosmetic preparations.

In the examples given below, the present invention is described by way of example, without the invention, the scope of application of which is apparent from the entire description and the claims, to be limited to the embodiments mentioned in the examples.

The following figures are part of the examples:

Figure 1: LDH release after application of the test formulation Figure 2: Total LDH after 24 and 48 h after damage with SDS

Figure 3: IL-lα-concentration 24h after injury Figure 4: Sum of the IL-lα-concentration 24 and 48h after damage with SDS Figure 5: Viability of the cells 24h after two applications of the test formulations Figure 6: Viability of the skin cells 24 after damage with SDS Figure 7: Water retention of various short-chain zwitterionic compounds

Figure 8: Improvement of Skin Moisture by Compound 2.1

Figure 9: Long-term moisturizer effect of compound 2.1 Figure 10: Decrease of the protein concentration relative to the vehicle Figure 11: Corneometry data of the panel test

Examples:

Example 1.1: Preparation of the compound 1.1

In a 500 ml stirred apparatus with reflux condenser and nitrogen inlet 100 g of formic acid are introduced and made inert with nitrogen for about 10 minutes. Then 225 ml of 3-dimethylaminopropylamine are added with stirring and continuous inerting with nitrogen. The formation of salt is exothermic and the mixture heats up to about 175 ^° C. and is kept at this temperature for about 4 to 5 hours. During this time, water formed in the reaction is removed from the mixture via a column. If a degree of conversion of about 98% is achieved on the basis of the acid number, excess DMAPA is removed by means of vacuum distillation. The content of tertiary nitrogen in the final purified product is 10.4%. Example 1.2: Preparation of the compound 1.2

In a 500 ml stirred apparatus with reflux condenser and nitrogen inlet 133 g of lactic acid are introduced and inertized with nitrogen for about 10 minutes. Then 188 ml of 3-dimethylaminopropylamine are added with stirring and continuous inerting with nitrogen. The salt formation is exothermic and the mixture heats up to about 150 ⁰ C and is held for about 4-5 h at a temperature of 175 ⁰ C. During this time, water formed in the reaction is removed from the mixture via a column. If a degree of conversion of about 98% is achieved on the basis of the acid number, excess DMAPA is removed by means of vacuum distillation. The content of tertiary nitrogen in the purified end product is 8.14%.

Example 1.3: Preparation of the compound 1.3

In a 250 ml stirred apparatus with reflux condenser and nitrogen inlet 60 g of acetic acid were introduced and made inert with nitrogen for about 10 minutes. Then, 120 ml of 3-dimethylaminopropylamine with stirring and continuous

Inertization with nitrogen added. The salt formation is exothermic and the mixture heats up to about 150 ⁰ C and is held for about 4-5 h at a temperature of 175 ⁰ C.

During this time, the reaction develops

Water removed from the mixture via a column. If a degree of conversion of about 98% is achieved on the basis of the acid number, excess DMAPA is removed by means of vacuum distillation. The content of tertiary

Nitrogen in the purified end product is 9.7%. Example 1.4: Preparation of the compound 1.4

In a 500 ml stirred apparatus with reflux condenser and nitrogen inlet 148 g of propionic acid are introduced and inertized with nitrogen for about 10 minutes. Then, 280 ml of 3-dimethylaminopropylamine are added with stirring and continuous inerting with nitrogen. The salt formation is exothermic and the mixture heats up to about 150 ⁰ C and is maintained for about 4-5 h at a temperature of 175 ° C. During this time, water formed in the reaction is removed from the mixture via a column. If a degree of conversion of about 98% is achieved on the basis of the acid number, excess DMAPA is removed by means of vacuum distillation. The content of tertiary nitrogen in the final purified product is 8.91%.

Example 1.5: Preparation of compound 1.5

In a 500 ml stirred apparatus with reflux condenser and nitrogen inlet 110 g of glutaric acid are presented.

Then, 200 ml of 3-dimethylaminopropylamine are added with stirring and continuous inerting with nitrogen.

After melting the resulting solid is the

Salt formation exothermic and the mixture heats up to about 150 ° C and is about 4 - 5 h at a temperature of 175

⁰ C kept under nitrogen. During this time, water formed in the reaction via a column from the

Mixture removed. If based on the acid number

98% conversion degree is reached, excess DMAPA is removed by means of vacuum distillation. The content of tertiary nitrogen is in the purified end product

9.47%. Example 1.6: Preparation of the compound 1.6

In a 500 ml stirred apparatus with reflux condenser and nitrogen inlet 90 g of oxalic acid are introduced. Then 328 ml of 3-dimethylaminopropylamine are added with stirring and continuous inertization with nitrogen. After the melting of the resulting solid salt formation is exothermic and the mixture is heated to about 150 ⁰ C and is kept for about 4-5 h at a temperature of 175 ° C under nitrogen. During this time, water formed in the reaction is removed from the mixture via a column. If a degree of conversion of about 98% is achieved on the basis of the acid number, excess DMAPA is removed by means of vacuum distillation. The content of tertiary nitrogen in the purified end product is 12.5%.

Example 1.7: Preparation of the compound 1.7

In a 500 ml stirred apparatus with reflux condenser and nitrogen inlet 104 g of malonic acid are presented. Then, 280 ml of 3-dimethylaminopropylamine are added with stirring and continuous inerting with nitrogen. After the melting of the resulting solid salt formation is exothermic and the mixture is heated to about 140 ⁰ C and is held for about 4-5 h at a temperature of 175 ° C under nitrogen. During this time, water formed in the reaction is removed from the mixture via a column. If a degree of conversion of about 98% is achieved on the basis of the acid number, excess DMAPA is removed by means of vacuum distillation. The tertiary nitrogen content in the final purified product is 9.84%. Example 1.8: Preparation of the compound 1.8

In a 500 ml stirred apparatus with reflux condenser and nitrogen inlet 76 g of glycolic acid are presented. Then 135 ml of 3-dimethylaminopropylamine are added with stirring and continuous inerting with nitrogen. After the melting of the resulting solid salt formation is exothermic and the mixture is heated to about 140 ⁰ C and is held for about 4-5 h at a temperature of 175 ° C under nitrogen. During this time, water formed in the reaction is removed from the mixture via a column. If a degree of conversion of about 98% is achieved on the basis of the acid number, excess DMAPA is removed by means of vacuum distillation. The content of tertiary nitrogen in the final purified product is 8.96%.

Example 2.1: Preparation of the compound 2.1

In a 500 ml four-necked flask equipped with stirrer, thermometer, reflux condenser and dropping funnel 91 g of Na monochloroacetate and 191 g of water are weighed and heated to 40 ⁰ C. Are added 100 g of the amidoamine from Example 1.1 and the reaction mixture until the heat of reaction to subside maintained at a temperature of 70 ⁰ C. Then heated to 98 ⁰ C. After about 7 h, the content of residual amidamine is less than 0.5%.

There are obtained 382 g of an aqueous solution of the following composition: Compound 2.1: 38.1%

NaCl: 11.9%

Water: 50%

Appearance: fluid, clear

Example 2.2: Preparation of the compound 2.2

In a 500 ml four-necked flask equipped with stirrer, thermometer, reflux condenser and dropping funnel, 70 g of sodium monochloroacetate and 170 g of water are weighed and heated to 40 ⁰ C. 100 g of the amide amine from Example 1.2 are added. Then the reaction mixture is heated to 70 ⁰ C and keeps the temperature until the decay of the heat of reaction. Then heated to 98 ⁰ C. After about 7 hours, the content of residual amidoamine below 0.5%.

There are obtained 340 g of an aqueous solution of the following composition:

Compound 2.2: 39.7% NaCl: 10.3%

Water: 50%

Appearance: fluid, clear

Example 2.3: Preparation of the compound 2.3

In a 500 ml four-necked flask equipped with stirrer, thermometer, reflux condenser and dropping funnel, 83 g of sodium monochloroacetate and 183 g of water are weighed out and heated to 40.degree. 100 g of the amide amine from Example 1.3 are added. Then the reaction mixture is heated to 70 ⁰ C and keeps the temperature until the decay of the heat of reaction. Then heated to 98 ⁰ C. After about 7 hours, the content of residual amidoamine below 0.5%. There are obtained 364 g of an aqueous solution of the following composition:

Compound 2.3: 38.5% NaCl: 11.5%

Water: 50%

Appearance: fluid, clear

Example 2.4: Preparation of the compound 2.4

In a 1000 ml four-necked flask equipped with stirrer, thermometer, reflux condenser and dropping funnel, 153 g of Na monochloroacetate and 353 g of water are weighed out and heated to 40.degree. 200 g of the amide amine from Example 1.4 are added. Then the reaction mixture is heated to 70 ⁰ C and keeps the temperature until the decay of the heat of reaction. Then heated to 98 ⁰ C. After about 7 hours, the content of residual amidoamine below 0.5%. There are obtained 706 g of an aqueous solution of the following composition:

Compound 2.4: 39.2%

NaCl: 10, 8%

Water: 50% Appearance: liquid, clear

Example 2.5: Preparation of the compound 2.5

In a 500 ml four-necked flask equipped with stirrer, thermometer, reflux condenser and dropping funnel 82 g of Na monochloroacetate and 182 g of water are weighed and heated to 40 ⁰ C. 100 g of the amide amine from Example 1.5 are added. Then the reaction mixture is heated to 70 ⁰ C. and keeps the temperature until the heat ceases. Then heated to 98 ⁰ C. After about 7 hours, the content of residual amidoamine below 0.5%.

There are obtained 364 g of an aqueous solution of the following composition:

Compound 2.5: 38.7%

NaCl: 11.3%

Water: 50% Appearance: liquid, clear

Example 2.6: Preparation of compound 2.6

107 g of sodium monochloroacetate and 207 g of water are weighed into a 500 ml four-necked flask equipped with stirrer, thermometer, reflux condenser and dropping funnel and heated to 40.degree. 100 g of the amide amine from Example 1.6 are added. Then the reaction mixture is heated to 70 ⁰ C and keeps the temperature until the decay of the heat of reaction. Then heated to 98 ⁰ C. After about 7 hours, the content of residual amidoamine below 0.5%.

414 g of an aqueous solution of the following composition are obtained:

Compound 2.6: 35, 9%

NaCl: 14.1%

Water: 50%

Appearance: fluid, clear Example 2.7: Preparation of the compound 2.7

In a 500 ml four-necked flask equipped with stirrer,

Thermometer, reflux condenser and dropping funnel are weighed 85 g of Na monochloroacetate and 185 g of water and 40

° C heated. 100 g of the amide amine from Example 1.7 are added. Then the reaction mixture is heated to 70 ⁰ C and keeps the temperature until the decay of the heat of reaction.

Then heated to 98 ⁰ C. After about 7 hours, the content of residual amidoamine below 0.5%.

There are obtained 370 g of an aqueous solution of the following composition:

Compound 2.7: 38.5%

NaCl: 11.5%

Water: 50%

Appearance: fluid, clear

Example 2.8: Preparation of the compound 2.8

In a 1000 ml four-necked flask equipped with stirrer, thermometer, reflux condenser and dropping funnel, 115 g of Na monochloroacetate and 265 g of water are weighed out and heated to 40.degree. 150 g of the amide amine from Example 1.8 are added. Then the reaction mixture is heated to 70 ⁰ C and keeps the temperature until the decay of the heat of reaction. Then heated to 98 ⁰ C. After about 7 hours, the content of residual amidoamine below 0.5%. 530 g of an aqueous solution of the following composition are obtained: Compound 2.8: 38.5%

NaCl: 11.5%

Water: 50%

Appearance: fluid, clear

Formulation examples for nourishing formulations:

In order to be able to characterize the skin-care properties of the compounds 2.1 to 2.8, various in-vitro tests on skin models (reconstituted human epidermis, company: SkinEthic) were carried out in order to characterize the properties of the short-chain, zwitterionic compounds.

Example 3.1 Lactate dehydrogenase release (LDH release)

The appearance of LDH in the cell culture medium is a sure sign of damage to the cytoplasmic membrane of the cells and thus damage to the epidermal cell layer. Furthermore, it is known that an escape of this enzyme represents the "point of no return" for the cell, thus indicating an irreversibility of the damage.

The LDH concentration was determined using a commercially available test kit (LDH test kit, Roche Diagnostics, Mannheim, Germany). The test formulation was applied twice on the skin models 24 hours apart. Figure 1 shows the LDH release 24h after the last application. Test Formulation 3.1: A 4% aqueous solution of the short-chain zwitterionic compounds was applied. Since the compounds contain about 0.3% saline per 1% active substance, the corresponding saline concentration was additionally tested.

By the application of the compounds, the LDH release from the cells was not changed or even slightly smaller compared to the untreated skin model. This means that the short-chain zwitterionic compounds do not attack the cell membrane, so they do not have a cell damaging effect.

Example 3.2 LDH release after damage to the cells with SDS:

Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) is known to attack the cell membrane and lead to increased LDH release. The aim of the experiment described below was to investigate to what extent compound 2.1 can protect the cells from damage with SDS.

The skin models were damaged with SDS for 40 min. Subsequently, the test formulation, an O / W cream with 1 or 4% compound 2.1, was applied. LDH release was measured at 24 and 48 hours after application of the test formulation. Test formulation 3.2:

Polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate 3.0%

Glyceryl Stearate 2.0%

Stearyl Alcohol 1.0%

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 5.0%

Mineral OiI 14.0%

Compound 2.1 1.0 / 4.0%

Water ad 100, 0%

Figure 2 shows the total LDH concentration after 24 and 48 h.

Damage with SDS increased LDH release as expected. This increase was significantly reduced when the test formulation was applied immediately after injury. A positive effect was already evident in the vehicle, but it increased significantly again when the formulation contained compound 2.1. Already 1% of the compound according to the invention seems to be sufficient, since with 4% no clear increase of the efficacy was recognizable.

Example 3.3 Il-1α release after damage with SDS:

ILl-α is a messenger substance that plays a central role in inflammatory reactions in the body. Sodium lauryl sulfate

(SDS) is a skin irritant surfactant which is an irritant

Contact dermatitis in humans can cause, as

Model stimulus is used in subjects studies and among other things induces the release of IL-1OC. The determination of IL-I α concentration was carried out with a commercially available test kit (human IL-1α immunoassay,

R & D Systems GmbH, Wiesbaden, Germany).

The test formulation, a 4% aqueous solution of the short chain zwitterionic compounds, was applied to the skin models. 24 h after the application was damaged for 40 min with 0.25% SDS solution. Subsequently, the test formulation was applied a second time. After a further incubation period of 24 h, the determination of the released cytokine IL-1α was carried out. Since the test solutions contain about 0.3% NaCl per 1% active substance, a correspondingly concentrated one was also obtained

Saline solution examined.

Figure 3 shows the measurements of the IL-1α concentration 24h after injury.

All tested compounds reduced the release of the inflammatory marker Il-Iα, i. it can be assumed that the short-chain, zwitterionic compounds have anti-inflammatory properties.

Example 3.4 Anti-Inflammatory Effect of O / W Cream with Compound 2.1:

It was to be investigated whether the anti-inflammatory effect of the short-chain, zwitterionic compounds is also evident when applied from a cosmetic formulation. Skin models were damaged with SDS. Subsequently, the test formulation was applied with 1 and 4% compound 2.1. 24 and 48h after administration, the Il-Iα concentration was determined. Test formulation:

Polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate 3.0%

Glyceryl Stearate 2.0%

Stearyl Alcohol 1.0%

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 5.0%

Mineral OiI 14.0%

Compound 2.1 1.0 / 4.0%

Water ad 100, 0%

Figure 4 shows the summed IL-1α concentration at 24 and 48 h.

As expected, damage to SDS strongly increased the formation of the cytokine IL-1α. This increase was more dependent on the concentration reduced by the addition of compound 2.1, so that even when using the zwitterionic compounds from an O / W emulsion shows a significant anti-inflammatory effect.

Example 3.5 XTT test:

The XTT test is based on the ability of the cells to reduce the dye XTT, which can be detected photometrically. This reaction is catalyzed by mitochondrial succinate dehydrogenase and requires NAD (P) H, which can only be produced by metabolically active cells. In summary, the XTT test describes the viability of the cells.

The XTT test was carried out with a commercially available test kit and took place according to the manufacturer's instructions (XTT Test, Roche Diagnostics, Mannheim, Germany). The test formulation, a 4% aqueous solution of the short chain, zwitterionic compounds, was applied twice on the skin models 24 hours apart. 24 hours after the second application, the XTT concentration was determined. In addition to the zwitterionic compounds, the concentration of common salt contained in the test solutions was again tested. The negative control used was 0.25% SDS. Figure 5 shows the viability of the cells relative to the control.

It can be seen that the viability of the cells was not adversely affected by the zwitterionic test substances. On the contrary, viability was even positively affected by compound 2.7.

Example 3.6 XTT Test with O / W Cream with Compound 2.1:

The skin models were first damaged with 0.25% SDS for 40 min. Subsequently, the application of the test formulations was carried out. After 24 h incubation time, the viability of the cells was determined by XTT test. Test formulation: s. Example 3.2.

Figure 6 shows the viability of the test formulations relative to the control, i. untreated cells, again.

It has been shown that the viability of skin cells is significantly reduced by damage with SDS. Subsequent treatment with Compound 2.1 more than doubled the viability again. Example 3.7 Water retention on an IMS film:

Determining the water retention of drugs using the IMS film is a simple screening test that can be used to study the moisturizing properties of drugs. The measurement is based on the following principle: The IMS film is a membrane that is covered with peptides, lipids and polymers and represents a greatly simplified skin model. The active ingredient interacts with the film from the formulation. It is bound water and thus prevents or impedes the evaporation of water.

Test formulation 3.7:

Ceteareth-25 2.0%

Glyceryl Stearate 4.0%

Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0%

Ethylhexyl Stearate 8.5%

Caprylic / capric triglycerides 8.5%

Short-chain zwitterionic 5.0% compounds

Water ad 100, 0%

Execution :

1. The weight of the IMS membrane is determined (Wl).

2. Apply the test formulation, weigh the film again (W2) and then at 21-22 ° C and 72% RH for 4 hours. incubated.

3. After 4 hours, the film is weighed again (W3). 4. The water retention capacity of formulation (WR) is calculated as follows:

WR = (W3-W1) / (W2-W1) * 100-100

Figure 7 shows the measurement data of the water retention capacity of various short-chain zwitterionic compounds.

All zwitterionic compounds tested significantly improve water retention compared to the vehicle. This property is particularly pronounced for compounds 2.1, 2.5 and 2.7. But the other short-chain zwitterionic compounds showed a very good water retention.

Example 3.8 In vivo Moisturizer Properties of Short Chain Zwitterionic Compounds:

Since the very good results achieved with compound 2.1 in determining the water retention capacity on an IMS film suggest very good moisturizing properties, in the next step the moisturizing properties were also determined in vivo. The determination of skin moisture is usually done with a corneometer.

With the corneometer principle, the skin moisture of the "outer layer" of the epidermis (stratum corneum) is determined by measuring the capacitance. This principle is based on the fact that different dielectric constants of water and other substances are used. An appropriately shaped measuring capacitor responds to the samples introduced into its measuring volume with different ones Capacity changes that are automatically recorded and evaluated by the device. The special glass coated active probe is pressed onto the skin area to be measured, and after 1 second, the display shows the Corneometermesswert, ie the degree of moisture on the skin surface (www.dermatest.de/de/ueberuns.html). For the experiments described here, a Corneometer CM 825 from Courage & Khazaka is used. Skin moisture was measured before and 2 hours after application of the test formulations. Four test fields were marked on the forearms of 14 subjects, to which the various test formulations were applied. Before each measurement, the subjects had to spend at least 15 minutes in an air-conditioned room (21-22 ° C, 55% RH).

The difference in the corneometer values before and after application of the test formulations was calculated. The higher this value, the better the moisturizing properties of the active ingredient.

Test formulation 3.8:

Ceteareth-25 2, 0% 2, 0%

Glyceryl Stearate 4, 0% 4, 0%

Cetearyl Alcohol 2, 0% 2, 0%

Ethylhexyl Stearate 8, 5% 8, 5%

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 8, 5% 8, 5%

Compound 2.1 1.0 / 4.0% -

Water ad ad

100.0% 100.0%

Figure 8 shows the increase in corneometer units (ΔCU) 2 hours after application of the test formulations. Compound 2.1 increased the skin moisture very clearly. The effectiveness increased significantly with increasing use concentration. It could therefore be shown that compound 2.1 has very good moisturizing properties.

Example 3.9 Long Term Moisturizer Effect of Compound 2.1:

To investigate the long-term effect of Compound 2.1's moisturizing properties, a two-week study was conducted with 12 subjects. Subjects received 2 formulations, one with 2% compound 2.1, one without drug. These formulations had to be applied to the inside of each forearm twice a day. Before starting the application and after 2 weeks, the skin moisture was measured.

Skin moisture was determined using a Corneometer CM 825 (Courage & Khazaka). Before each measurement, the subjects had to spend at least 15 minutes in an air-conditioned room (21-22 ° C, 55% rh). In each case, the difference of the Corneometereinheiten to the starting value was calculated (ΔCU).

Test formulation 3.9:

Ceteareth-25 2, 0% Glyceryl Stearate 4, 0 or Cetearyl Alcohol 2, 0% Ethylhexyl Stearate 8, 5 o. Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 8, 5% Compound 2.1 0/2, 0% Water ad 100, 0 Figure 9 shows the ΔCU values after two weeks of application of the test formulations.

Already by the vehicle, the skin moisture is slightly improved. This effect is further increased by compound 2.1.

Example 3.10 Influence of compound 2.1 on skin roughness:

The skin roughness can be easily quantified by means of tape stripping. The rougher the skin surface is, for example because the skin lipid barrier is damaged, the weaker is the binding of the skin cells. This can be seen partly with the naked eye on very rough skin. Tape stripping removes the top corneocytes. The more corneocytes stick to the tape, the rougher the skin. The corneocytes are then quantitatively determined by means of a commercially available Bradford test. This is based on the following principle: The triphenylmethane dye Coomassie Brilliant Blue G-250 (CBBG) forms complexes in acidic solution with both the cationic and the non-polar, hydrophobic side chains of the proteins. The absorption spectrum of the unbound (cationic), red-colored form has an absorption maximum at 470 nm. By complexing with proteins, the dye is stabilized in its blue, unprotonated, anionic sulfate form, the absorption spectrum shifts to an absorption maximum at 595 nm. Since the extinction coefficient of In addition, the dye-protein complex is much higher than that of the free dye, the increase in absorption at 595 nm may be due to the Formation of the complex with high sensitivity to the free color reagent can be measured photometrically and is a measure of the protein concentration of the solution.

The study was conducted on 12 subjects who received two test formulations, one with 2% Compound 2.1 and one without. These formulations had to be applied twice daily to the inside of each forearm. Tape strips were taken and analyzed before the start of the application and after 2 and 4 weeks. Test formulation: s. Example 3.9

Figure 10 shows the decrease in the amount of protein relative to the vehicle.

Already after two weeks of use, a significant reduction in the skin roughness by the formulation with compound 2.1 can be seen compared to the vehicle. This effect is intensified during further use.

Formulation examples for cleansing formulations: Example 4.1 Panel test

Test formulation body cleanser:

Formulation 4. 1 a 4. 1b

Sodium lauryl ether sulphate 66% 6% Cocamidopropylbetaine 6% 6% Compound 2.1 0, 5% Water ad 1 0 0% ad 1 0 0 Phenonip 0, 2% 0, 2%

To determine the influence of the formulations 4.1a and 4. Ib on the moisture content of the skin were Formulations 4.1a and 4.1b studied in a forearm wash test.

The test panel consisted of 15 panelists.

The test persons were instructed to use no cosmetic products (shower bath, body lotion) on the forearms from 3 days before the start of the test.

The test was carried out on 5 days (Mon-Fri).

The initial measurement took place on the first day in the afternoon 4 hours after defined prewashing with formulation 3.

3 ablutions per day were defined.

Control measurement was made on the 2nd day after 3 washes.

The final measurement was made on the 5th day 4 hours after the 11th wash. Before the respective measurements, the test persons were min.

20 min. einklimatisiert.

Corneometer measurements were made according to the procedure described above.

Measurements:

Δ Corneometry value Formulation 4.1a ~ l, 0 Formulation 4.1b -5.1 Untreated -0.9

Figure 11 shows the values listed above. From Figure 11, it can be seen that the reduction in corneometry observed in a skin cleansing application is diminished by the use of Formulation 4.1a to a level observed in untreated skin. Without use of Compound 2.1, a typical, significant decrease in skin moisture is observed.

Claims

Claims: 1. Formulations containing at least one compound according to formula I Formula I where n = 1 to 6 and m = 1 to 4 and R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently identical or different, aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and Y is a divalent hydrocarbon radical and X is an M-bonding radical or a covalent bond, with X for m = 1 is a hydrogen or a Ci to C ₄ hydrocarbon substituted or unsubstituted by at least one OH group and X is a direct covalent bond for m = 2 or a substituent which is substituted or unsubstituted by at least one OH group; cohesive C 1 to C ₅ hydrocarbon radical and X is m> 2 is at least one OH group substituted or unsubstituted, m-Ci C ₅ hydrocarbon radical and / or a stereoisomeric form of the compound according to formula I. 2. Formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain at least one compound of formula I in which m = 2 and X = CH ₂ . 3. Formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain at least one compound of formula I in which m = 1 and X = H. 4. Formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain a compound of the formula I in which n = 3, m = 2, R ¹ = R ² = CH ₃ , Y = CH ₂ and X = CH ₂ , 5. Formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain a compound of the formula I in which n = 3, m = 1, R ¹ = R ² = CH ₃ , Y = CH ₂ and X = H. 6. Formulations according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain at least one Compound of formula I in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, and preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% based on the total formulation. 7. Formulations according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they contain at least one additional component selected from the group of emollients, Emulsifiers and surfactants, Thickener / Viskositätsregier / stabilizers, UV light protection filters, antioxidants Hydrotropes (or polyols), Solids, Perlithium additives, deodorant and antiperspirant active ingredients, insect repellents, Self, Preservatives, Conditioning agents, perfumes, dyes, Biogenic agents, Care additives, Solvent. 8. Use of a formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 7 as a cosmetic. Use of a formulation according to at least one of claims 1 to 7 as a skin care, facial care, Head care, body care, intimate care, foot care, hair care, nail care, dental care or oral care product. 10. Use of a formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in the form of an emulsion, a suspension, a solution, a cream, an ointment, a paste, a gel, an oil, a powder, an aerosol, a stick, a spray , a cleaning product, make-up or sunscreen preparation or tonic. 11. Use of a formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for increasing and / or stabilizing the moisture content of the skin. 12. Use of a formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for reducing the skin roughness.