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WO2006128780A1 - Preparations cosmetiques presentant une certaine teneur en extrait aqueux d'anis et en matieres de charge - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques presentant une certaine teneur en extrait aqueux d'anis et en matieres de charge Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006128780A1
WO2006128780A1 PCT/EP2006/062197 EP2006062197W WO2006128780A1 WO 2006128780 A1 WO2006128780 A1 WO 2006128780A1 EP 2006062197 W EP2006062197 W EP 2006062197W WO 2006128780 A1 WO2006128780 A1 WO 2006128780A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
polyethylene glycol
acid
advantageous
ether
skin
Prior art date
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Ceased
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PCT/EP2006/062197
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Uta Kruse
Christopher Mummert
Stefan Gallinat
Anja Knott
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Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Publication of WO2006128780A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006128780A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9771—Ginkgophyta, e.g. Ginkgoaceae [Ginkgo family]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/002—Aftershave preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France, and one or more fillers.
  • anise Pimpinella anis fruit extract
  • a very important for the consumer, but it is difficult to quantitatively measurable property of cosmetic products is a certain invigorating and / or smooth skin feel and the suppleness of the skin after its application.
  • a rosy skin color (such as is available by staying in the open air) is considered by consumers to be healthy and therefore desirable, whereas a pale complexion is generally not as desirable. It is an object of the present invention to provide skincare preparations and preparations for the care of naturally aged skin, wherein the preparations are intended to nourish and beautify the external appearance of the body and at the same time reduce wrinkles and eliminate cellulites.
  • a cosmetic preparation containing (a) an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France, and (b) one or more several fillers remedies the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • Such a preparation has the significant advantage over prior art formulations that by adding the fillers an "instantaneous" physical wrinkle reduction by filling the wrinkles with microparticles takes place. reduced by degradation processes.
  • such preparation has the following additional benefits: It promotes the natural regeneration process and cell metabolism of the skin, activates skin protection systems and makes the skin more resistant to stressors, counteracts (first) signs of aging, reducing lines and facial lines, refining pores and
  • the skin is visibly tightened and smoothed, deeply activates the skin's own production of components of connective tissue such as collagens, elastic fibers and proteoglycans (including hyaluronic acids), counteracts the formation of new wrinkles sustainably, the energy depots / reserves filled and the skin / cell regeneration improves, rejuvenates the skin's internal structure by improving the epidermal-dermal (papillae), thereby refining and tightening facial and skin contours, firming the skin palpably and visibly and improving skin elasticity.
  • connective tissue such as collagens, elastic fibers and proteoglycans (including hyaluronic acids)
  • Bioxilift is an aqueous fruit extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract).
  • the extract has an amber-like color and has a characteristic anise smell.
  • the extract is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, but especially in potassium ions.
  • the recorded spectra do not deliver Clue for the identification of individual lead structures or principles of action. Rather, the spectra represent "typical" plant extract spectra.
  • the specific composition is:
  • Dry matter 40-60 g / l Mineral ashes 11-18 g / l Total protein 12-20 g / l pH 4.5-5.5
  • the extract is preserved with butylene glycol 0.36% and parabens 0.14% and is soluble in ethanol up to a ratio of 40/60 ethanol / water (v / v).
  • the aniseed fruits are solubilized in water and hydrolyzed enzymatically.
  • the ratio of raw material to extract is Vz. Soluble and insoluble phases are separated and subsequently filtered or subsequently sterile filtered. Bioxilift is offered by the company SILAB, France.
  • Fillers in the context of the present invention are particulate substances which as a rule do not produce any color effect in the cosmetic formulation in which they are used. Furthermore, fillers according to the invention usually have a low refractive index and, as a result, no or very little opacity.
  • fillers which z. B. serve as support materials in the formulation of powders or as viscosity and sensor modulators in emulsions or anhydrous formulations. Such fillers are also often used to obtain matting effects on the skin or to absorb sebum.
  • fillers generally also affects the spreadability of conventional formulations on the skin and the uniformity of a possible color effect.
  • the fillers in the context of the present invention are advantageously selected from the group of inorganic fillers, for example from the group of silicates.
  • Silicates are salts and esters (silicic acid esters) of orthosilicic acid [Si (OH) 4 ] and their condensation products.
  • the silicates are not only the most species-rich class of minerals, but also extremely important geologically and technically. Over 80% of the earth's crust is made up of silicates.
  • phyllosilicates are advantageous.
  • Layered silicates (phyllosilicates, leaf silicates) are (ideally) silicate structures with two-dimensionally infinite layers of [SiO 4 ] 4 " tetrahedra, each tetrahedron being connected via 3 bridging oxygens with neighboring tetrahedra.
  • Chemical formulas can only be approximated for phyllosilicates because they have a large ion exchange capacity and silicon can be exchanged for aluminum and this in turn against magnesium, Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Zn and the like.
  • the resulting possibly negative charge of the layers is usually compensated by cations, in particular by Na + and Ca 2+ in interlayer positions.
  • Phyllosilicates can be obtained by reversible storage of water (in the 2- to 7-fold amount) and other substances such. As alcohols, glycols and the like swell. Their use as thickeners in cosmetic products is accordingly known per se. However, the prior art could not point the way to the present invention.
  • Advantageous phyllosilicates which can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, those whose largest expansion direction in the unmodified and unswollen state has an average length of less than 10 ⁇ m.
  • the mean extents of the modified layered silicate particles used may be 1000 nm ⁇ 100 nm ⁇ 1 nm and less.
  • the effective size of the modified Of course, layered silicate particles in a cosmetic or dermatological formulation depend on the amount of stored substances.
  • Particularly advantageous (layered) silicates according to the invention are:
  • Bentonite montmorillonite with Ca (filler earth) or Na (Wyoming bentonite)
  • the dimethyl dimethyl silylates obtainable by the addition of dimethylsilyl groups such as Aerosil R972 (Degussa Huls), Aerosil R974 (Degussa Huls), CAB-O-SIL TS-610 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL TS-720 (Cabot), Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker chemistry), Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker chemistry) and / or Wacker HDK H20 (Wacker chemistry).
  • dimethylsilyl groups such as Aerosil R972 (Degussa Huls), Aerosil R974 (Degussa Huls), CAB-O-SIL TS-610 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL TS-720 (Cabot), Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker chemistry), Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker chemistry) and / or Wacker HDK H20 (Wacker chemistry).
  • silicates obtainable by addition of trimethylsilyl groups (eg Aerosil R 812 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot), Sipemat D 17 (Degussa Hüls), Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker). Chemistry)).
  • trimethylsilyl groups eg Aerosil R 812 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot), Sipemat D 17 (Degussa Hüls), Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker). Chemistry
  • polymethylsilsesquioxanes obtainable by hydrolysis and condensation reactions of methyltrimethoxysilanes, which likewise have a round shape and whose particle size distribution can be controlled by the preparation.
  • Preferred polymethylsilsesquioxanes are available, for example, under the trade names Tospearl 2000 B from GE Bayer Silikones, Tospearl 145A from Toshiba, AEC Silicone Resin Spheres from A & E Connock and Wacker-Belsil PMS MK from Wacker-Chemie.
  • Boron nitride is isoelectronic with carbon (i.e., graphite and diamond shapes are possible). Boron nitride is characterized by its chemical inertness.
  • fillers in the context of the present invention are carbonates, such as. As magnesium carbonate (MgCO 3 ) and calcium carbonate (CaCO 3 ). It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use the carbonates as fillers in dry powders.
  • MgCO 3 magnesium carbonate
  • CaCO 3 calcium carbonate
  • the fillers in the context of the present invention are also advantageously selected from the group of organic fillers.
  • advantageous organic fillers are, for.
  • natural polymers such as silk powder, microcrystalline cellulose and / or zinc stearates.
  • Organic fillers preferred according to the invention are also synthetic polymers, ie. H. Polymer particles which are present in the preparation in the form of solids, such as polycarbonates, polyethers, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamides, polyurethanes, polyacrylates and the like. Particularly advantageous is z.
  • nylon polyamide 6 and polyamide 12
  • polyamide 6 for example microfine polyamide particles, in particular those available under the trade name SP-500 from TORAY.
  • polyamide 6 also: nylon 6
  • polyamide 12 also: nylon 12
  • Polyamide 6 is the polyamide [poly ( ⁇ -caprolactam)] synthesized from ⁇ -aminocaproic acid (6-aminohexanoic acid) or ⁇ -caprolactam
  • polyamide 12 is a poly ( ⁇ -laurinlactam) from ⁇ -laurolactam.
  • Advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are, for example Orgasol ® 1002 (polyamide 6), and Orgasol ® 2002 (polyamide 12) from ELF ATOCHEM.
  • silicone elastomers can be selected from the group of vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers, such as. Dow Corning 9506 Cosmetic Powder from Dow Coming (INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer).
  • silicone resins such as e.g. KSP-100, KSP-200 or KSP-300 from Shin Etsu, which are also listed under the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer or SR 1000 from GE Bayer Silicones, which bears the INCI name Trimethylsiloxy Silicate
  • lauroyl lysine which is sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amihope LL.
  • the total amount of at least one filler in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range of 0.05-20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Fillers preferred according to the invention come from the group of inorganic or organic silicon compounds.
  • the layer silicates are particularly preferred. Of these, kaolin, talc and mica are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the preferred inorganic silicon compounds include the surface of the organically modified spherical particles. Of these, particular preference is given to polymethylsilsesquioxanes and hydrophobically modified aerosils, such as, for example, Aerosil R 972.
  • Organic silicon compounds include the siloxane elastomers and siloxane resins. Of these, particularly preferred are the KSP types of Shin Etsu, as well as the trimethylsiloxysilicate.
  • fillers come from the group of spherical particles.
  • the average particle diameter is less than 30 microns.
  • Particularly preferred is the BPD-500 marketed by Kobo.
  • spherical particles having an average particle diameter of less than 10 ⁇ m are preferred.
  • nylon 12 e.g. sold as SP-501 or SP-500 by the company Kobo.
  • polymethyl methacrylates e.g. sold under the trade name Covabead LH 85 by LCW.
  • Lauroyl lysines, bismuth oxychloride or boron nitride can furthermore preferably be used.
  • the particle diameters of the fillers are 5-100 ⁇ m, in particular 10-60 ⁇ m.
  • the preparations according to the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broad-spectrum filter substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • the preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase and which, in particular, can also be free of further oil components.
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomyliden- methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • Benzoxazole derivatives such as.
  • Hydroxybenzophenones e.g. B. 2- (4'-diethylamino-2 1 -hydoxybenzoyl) -benzoeklare- hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is available under the trade name Uvinul A Plus from BASF.
  • Triazine derivatives such as. B. 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis- Ethylhexyloxylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH; Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; 4 j j 4 4 l ll - (1 j 3 j 5-triazine-2 J 4 J 6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl) J also: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2 l
  • NUL® T 150 is sold; 2- [4,6-bis (2 J 4-dimethylphenyl) -1 J 3 J 5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).
  • Benzotriazoles such as. B. 2,2'-methylene-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1- J 3 J 3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) (INCI: Methylene bis-benztriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol ), which z. Under the trade name Tinosorb® M in CIBA chemicals
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic anyl ester;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • Ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul N 539 T.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention, further UV-A and / or
  • Broadband filter in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -
  • UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the total amount of the filter substances is from the range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-% - each based on the total weight of the preparations - chosen to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • the preparation additionally contains inorganic pigments, preferably coated titanium dioxide.
  • Inorganic pigments within the meaning of the invention are metal oxides and / or other sparingly water-soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ) , Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (for example Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides as well as the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ).
  • the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. These predispersions may advantageously be added to dispersing aids and / or solubilization agents.
  • the pigments may advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), in which case it is intended to form or retain a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character
  • the various surface coatings may also comprise water .
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention may consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH). 3 , or alumina hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 J 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 J n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS no. : 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • These inorganic surface coatings can be used alone, in combination and in combination D / or occur in combination with organic coating materials.
  • Organic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 Dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:
  • Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names:
  • alpha-hydroxy acids are additionally present in the preparation. It is further preferred if the preparation additionally contains glycerol. It is further preferred if the preparation is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or an O / W hydrodispersion. It is further preferred if substances having a particle diameter of 10 to 250 nm, preferably 10 to 100 nm, are selected as the coated titanium dioxide. It is further preferred if the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid or tartaric acid. It is further preferred if the preparation has a pH of from 3 to 10, preferably from 4 to 8.
  • the invention also encompasses the use of a preparation according to the invention against wrinkles and / or for increasing skin elasticity.
  • Preparations present as emulsions according to the present invention comprise one or more emulsifiers.
  • O / W emulsifiers may be advantageous be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or poly-ethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, eg. B .:
  • alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -CH 2 -COOH nd n represent a number from 5 to 30,
  • the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are selected particularly advantageously from the group of substances having HLB values of from 11 to 18, very particularly advantageously having HLB values of from 14.5 to 15, 5, provided that the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or higher.
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearylalcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are:
  • Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isoloureth-12).
  • the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be sodium laureth-11-carboxylate.
  • sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can be advantageously used.
  • Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven.
  • polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprate, polyethylene glycol (20 ) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.
  • the sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
  • Particularly preferred O / W emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, cetearyl glucosides, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, stearic acid, ceteareth-20 and steareth-21.
  • W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C atoms, diglycerol saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C-atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkan
  • W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate Glycerylmonoiso-, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl- monoisostearate, glycolmonocaprylat propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene, propylene glycol, sorbitan, Sorbitanmo- monolaurate, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.
  • the emulsions may also contain hydrocolloids (also referred to as thickeners or gel formers) which can stabilize the preparations.
  • hydrocolloids also referred to as thickeners or gel formers
  • Agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, xanthan gum, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum are used as hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention.
  • Further advantageous gelling agents are for example copolymers of Ci-3 o O-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof.
  • the INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.”
  • Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon) Carbopoles are also advantageous gel formers for such Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, in particular also acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers
  • Advantageous carbopols are for example the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984.
  • Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are: magnesium and / or aluminum silicates and, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula
  • R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methylcelluloses and which, in addition to a dominating content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
  • Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
  • Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
  • Polyurethanes eg the Avalure® grades from Goodrich
  • dimethicone co-polyol polyacrylates Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group
  • PVP / VA vinyl acetate copolymer
  • Liviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF C 20-4O carboxylic acid with polyethylene
  • film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP):
  • copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from the GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • preservatives preservatives, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to increase the foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feel on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other common constituents of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives in the context of the present invention are, for example, iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those known under the trade names Glycacil-L,
  • Parabens i.e., p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, and / or
  • Butylparaben phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system according to the invention also advantageously also preserving aids, such as octoxyglycerol, glycine soy etc.
  • EDTA [S, S] -Ethylendiamindisuccinat
  • EDDS EDTA
  • Octaquest EDTA
  • Octel pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate
  • z. B. under the trade name Dequest 2046 from the company.
  • Monsanto is available and / or iminodisuccinic which u. a. from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (about 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 is permanently available.
  • compositions are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants.
  • antioxidants all suitable or common for cosmetic applications antioxidants can be used.
  • water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins.
  • antioxidants are vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • active ingredients to be used in the context of the present invention are those which have a positive effect on the condition of the skin, in particular active ingredients for positively influencing the aging skin, which reduce the development of wrinkles or even existing wrinkles.
  • biochinones in particular ubiquinone (Q10) and ubiquinol, folic acid and its derivatives (in particular tetrahydrofolic acid and dihydrofolic acid), niacin and its derivatives (especially niacinamide), creatine and creatinine, carnitine, biotin, isoflavone and its derivatives, lipoic acid, ginkgo Extracts, hops and hops malt extracts.
  • agents that promote the restructuring of connective tissue such as natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-containing plant extracts - such.
  • soy and clover extracts - can be used very well in the formulations of the invention.
  • the formulations are particularly suitable as active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin (such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, carnitine, propionic acid, green tea extracts, jojoba oil, urea and mineral salts (such as, for example, NaCl, Marine minerals) as well as osmolytes (such as inositol, taurine, betaine, quaternary ammonium compounds)).
  • agents such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcone, especially licochalcone A, dexpanthenol, inhibitors of prostaglandin metabolism, in particular the cyclooxygenase and the leukotriene metabolism, in particular the 5-lipoxygenase, but also the 5-lipoxevase inhibitor protein, FLAP.
  • creatine and creatinine are suitable active ingredients to create and / or renew an (energy) depot and to activate the repair of various cellular structures, in particular the DNA.
  • modulators of pigmentation also proved to be advantageous.
  • agents that reduce the pigmentation of the skin and thus lead to a cosmetically desired lightening of the skin and / or reduce the occurrence of age spots and / or lighten existing age spots include tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid (8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid) and various extracts of licorice, arbutin, alpha-arbutin, deoxyarbutin, fruit acids, especially alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), Bearberry (Uvae ursi), Ursolic acid, ascorbic acid, pyridoxamine, niacinamide, formulations according to the invention, which z. B.
  • known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and / or derivatives, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological lesions, as they z.
  • Skin aging such as dryness, roughness, dryness wrinkles, itching, decreased refatting (eg, after washing), visible vascular dilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), slackness and wrinkle and wrinkle formation, localized hypersensitivity).
  • Hypo and false pigmentation eg, age spots
  • increased susceptibility to mechanical stress eg, cracking
  • they are advantageously suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic preparations the property, after application or distribution on the skin surface, to reduce the moisture release of the hom layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or to positively influence the hydration of the initial layer ,
  • TEWL transepidermal water loss
  • the skin's barrier function is normalized, the skin is noticeably refreshed and invigorated, and the skin appears smoother.
  • the deep-acting increase in moisture swelling and dark circles are visibly reduced, the The production of skin's own lipids is stimulated and the natural anti-aging functions of the skin and the overall performance of the skin are stimulated.
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, panthenol and urea.
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention advantageously contains nonpolar, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane , Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase can also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are synthetic compounds in which silicon atoms via oxygen atoms chain and / or net-like linked and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated , Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are characterized by the following structural formula are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimeticones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • cyclomethicone octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
  • silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • amino-modified silicones INCI: amodimethicones
  • silicone waxes eg.
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as various Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Bioxylift was used as Pimpinella anis fruit extract.

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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Natural Medicines & Medicinal Plants (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation cosmétique contenant (a) un extrait aqueux d'anis (extrait d'anis vert), en vente sous le nom commercial de Bioxilift de la société SILAB, St. Viance, France, et (b) une ou plusieurs matières de charge.
PCT/EP2006/062197 2005-06-03 2006-05-10 Preparations cosmetiques presentant une certaine teneur en extrait aqueux d'anis et en matieres de charge Ceased WO2006128780A1 (fr)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2055307A1 (fr) * 2007-11-01 2009-05-06 Beiersdorf AG Combinaisons de matières actives constituées d'un extrait de fruit anisé et d'un extrait de thé blanc

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