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WO2006021350A1 - Nouvel agent de traitement de fibres keratiniques - Google Patents

Nouvel agent de traitement de fibres keratiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006021350A1
WO2006021350A1 PCT/EP2005/008875 EP2005008875W WO2006021350A1 WO 2006021350 A1 WO2006021350 A1 WO 2006021350A1 EP 2005008875 W EP2005008875 W EP 2005008875W WO 2006021350 A1 WO2006021350 A1 WO 2006021350A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
vitamin
composition according
protein
hair
derivatives
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2005/008875
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Gabriele Weser
Marlene Henke
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Hans Schwarzkopf and Henkel GmbH
Original Assignee
Hans Schwarzkopf and Henkel GmbH
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Filing date
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Publication of WO2006021350A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006021350A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66—Enzymes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an agent for the treatment of keratinic fibers, which contains at least one protease and at least one further component which is selected from protein hydrolysates as well as vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and derivatives thereof. Furthermore, the invention relates to corresponding uses and methods for the treatment of keratinic fibers.
  • Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures, and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with colorants, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role. As a result of this behavior, hair is exposed in many ways to straining influences that have a negative effect on the surface structure.
  • DE-C-197 09 334 discloses the use of proteolytically active enzymes for the enzymatic dissolution or detachment of the spread cuticular edges of the hair causing an undesired roughness of the hair surface.
  • the present invention therefore provides an agent for treating kera ⁇ tinischer fibers containing at least one protease and at least one further component which is selected from protein hydrolysates and vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives.
  • the above-explained combination treatment of the keratinic fibers with the agent according to the invention advantageously leads to an improvement in the damaged structure of the fibers.
  • the agent according to the invention for the treatment of keratinic fibers may contain one protease or else several mutually different proteases.
  • Proteases cleave peptide bonds within an amino acid chain. This can improve desquamation, increase pore size, and expose amino acid side chains. Thus, the penetration of the repair agents into the hair can be improved.
  • pro- and / or eukaryotic proteases can be used. Among other things, they differ in their gap specificity (specifically for specific amino acids in a chain or at random). For example, trypsin cleaves peptide bonds after the amino acids arginine and lysine. In this case, free amino groups are formed on the protein side chains, with which corresponding reactions are possible. The keratin structure is less strongly attacked than with the use of nonspecifically cleaving proteases such. bak ⁇ terieller subtilisins.
  • proteases can be used in the agent according to the invention, in particular the enzymes classified under EC 3.4 - Acting on peptide bonds (peptidases) which are available for example on the Internet under the URL http://www.chem.qmul.ac.Uk/iubmb / enzymes / EC3 / 4 / are listed.
  • Preferred proteases according to the invention are the serine endopeptidases (EC3.4.21) and the cysteine endopeptidases (EC3.4.22). Particularly preferred proteases according to the invention are selected from subtilisin ⁇ EC 3.4.21.62), papain ⁇ EC 3.4.22.2) and bromelain (EC 3.4.22.32).
  • the enzymes are preferably present in the agent according to the invention in amounts of from 0.005 to 10% by weight, based on the total preparation. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the at least one further component is preferably present in the agent according to the invention in amounts of from 0.005 to 10% by weight, based on the total preparation. Amounts of 0.01 to 2 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the agent according to the invention may comprise protein hydrolyzates, preferably cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms , for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are understood to mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or of the amino acids is frequently carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) -ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are under the INCI - names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, letry TOI, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silica, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydr
  • the agent contains at least one cationic protein hydrolyzate.
  • the effect according to the invention can be increased still further if the agents of the present invention contain at least one cationic and at least one nonionic protein hydrolyzate.
  • the agents contain at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate.
  • agent according to the invention may contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursor and their derivatives.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include - Vitamin Bi (thiamine) - Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
  • nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide are frequently used under this name.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • panthenol and pantolactone pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • panthenol and / or pantolactone Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B ⁇ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates may be preferred.
  • the use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably used in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent , contain.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6afi) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c /] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed , Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred. Panthenol, pantolactone and nicotinic acid amide are very particularly preferred. Pantolactone has proven particularly suitable according to the invention.
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least one protein hydrolyzate and at least one vitamin, provitamin or a vitamin precursor and one of its derivatives.
  • pantolactone At least one cationic and at least one nonionic wheat protein hydrolyzate. This is beispiels ⁇ be achieved through the use of pantolactone in combination with the bottlesproduk ⁇ th Gluadin® ® WQ and Gluadin® ® WLM.
  • the use of the agent according to the invention is subject to no restrictions. It is in principle possible to apply two separate preparations comprising (a) the protease and (b) the at least one further component in succession in any order on the fibers. Here, however, between the steps (a) and (b) should not be too big time interval, so that the fibers do not dry between the steps.
  • the agent is preferably rinsed out after an exposure time of 1 minute to 60 hours. This rinsing can be carried out with pure water or a conventional shampoo. Exposure times of 5 to 15 minutes have proven sufficient in most cases.
  • composition of the invention at a temperature of 20 to 55 0 C, in particular of 35 to 40 0 C to apply.
  • compositions according to the invention are applied to the keratinic fiber, in particular human hair, there are no fundamental restrictions.
  • creams, solutions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions according to the teaching of phase inversion, PIT) are mentioned as the preparation of these preparations containing the agent according to the invention ), Microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols.
  • alcoholic component used are lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol.
  • Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols.
  • Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
  • Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the mixture of alcohol / water, may be preferred bases according to the invention.
  • the pH of these preparations may in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. To adjust this pH, virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used.
  • acids are used as acids. applies.
  • By-acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of the usual food intake and have positive effects on the human organism.
  • Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid.
  • citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • the agent can be confectioned as a single-chamber system or as a two-chamber system.
  • the enzyme component protease
  • the repair substance component protein hydrolysates, pantolactone, panthenol or niacinamide
  • a further subject of the present invention is a two-part kit for the treatment of keratinic fibers which is characterized in that it comprises a) the enzyme component (protease) and b) the repair substance component (protein hydrolysates, pantolactone, panthenol or niacinamide).
  • the agent may in principle contain all other components known to the person skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions.
  • anionic surfactants in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid.
  • soaps and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid.
  • remono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups
  • ampholytic surfactants such as, for example, N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group,
  • nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
  • Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such.
  • B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • polyvinyl alcohol polyvinyl alcohol
  • hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and also silicone oils,
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
  • dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, and di tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-
  • fiber-structure-improving active substances in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • paraffin oils such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil and phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
  • quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • - light stabilizers in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • - swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • - Reducing agents such as Thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and ⁇ -mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, Blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • composition of the invention may also contain surfactants. These may be anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well as cationic surfactants.
  • surfactants may be anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well as cationic surfactants.
  • the person skilled in the art can optionally check a possible influence of the various surfactants on the activity of the protease by simple preliminary tests.
  • a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants is used.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R 1 O- (Z) x . These compounds are characterized by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R 1 contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preferred are primary linear and in the 2-position methylver ⁇ branched aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R 1 .
  • these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
  • R 1 consists essentially of Cs and C-io-alkyl groups, consisting essentially of C 12 - and C ⁇ alkyl groups, consisting essentially of C 8 - to C-i ⁇ -alkyl groups or substantially C 12 - to Ci 6 alkyl groups.
  • R 1 consists essentially of Cs and C-io-alkyl groups, consisting essentially of C 12 - and C ⁇ alkyl groups, consisting essentially of C 8 - to C-i ⁇ -alkyl groups or substantially C 12 - to Ci 6 alkyl groups.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, alto-rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair.
  • this substance class as a further ingredient of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair that extends beyond the duration of the hair treatment is desired.
  • alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs can contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO.sub.1 or -SOa.sub.2 group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglyci- nate, for example the Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C-men in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl- carboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are surface active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 8 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule min ⁇ least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and capable of forming inner salts are.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl-amidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 12 - 18 - sarcosine.
  • the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this substance group Sub ⁇ presents under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially exertli ⁇ che stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologues which are obtained as catalysts in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates.
  • Narrow homolog distributions are obtained when For example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • Another object of the present invention is the use of at least one protease and at least one further component which is selected from protein hydrolysates and vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and derivatives thereof for improving the structure keratini ⁇ shear fibers.
  • a further subject of the present invention is a process for improving the structure of keratinic fibers, characterized in that an agent according to the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers.
  • Pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.5
  • Pantolactone 1 0 Subtilisin or papain 0.8
  • Pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.2
  • Hair conditioner as in example 1, as 2-K system: 1st chamber:
  • the hair were before the zero measurement with a Texapon.RTM ® NSO - pre-purified solution (10% AS) and then permed standard. That is, 2 g of permanent wave gel (Poly-Lock 1) were distributed over 1 g of hair strand. Subsequently, after 40 minutes of exposure to the gel under standard conditions, it was rinsed with cold tap water for 60 seconds. This was followed by fixing with 2 g of Poly-Lock 2 per 1 g of hair strand over a period of 10 minutes.
  • a strand of hair was treated with an aqueous solution of the respective active ingredient mixture.
  • the immersion time was 15 minutes at room temperature.
  • the hair was then rinsed out for 30 seconds under cold, flowing water and air-dried. DSC measurements:
  • DSC measurements were performed.
  • the tresses were cut into small pieces ( ⁇ 1 mm) and then transferred to 5 aliquots of each strand of hair in the DSC measuring vessels. After adding aqua deion.
  • the measurements were carried out in a temperature range of 110-170 0 C, at 10 ° C / min.
  • the melting point (peak maximum in [ 0 C]) and the enthalpy of denaturation (area under the peak in [J / g]) were determined.
  • Ajidew ® NL50 sodium salt of pyrrolidone (substance content about 48-52% Aktiv ⁇ ; INCI name: Sodium PCA) (Ajino- moto)
  • Carbopol ® Polyarcylklare (INCI name: Carbomer) (Noveon) Cetiol ® HE Kokosmonglycerid with about 7.3 EO units (INCI name: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate) (Cognis) Cremophor ® RH40 hydrogenated castor oil with 40-45 EO units (INCI name: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (BASF) Cutina ® HR hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (Cognis) Dehyquart® ® A- CA trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (about 24-26% active substance; INCI name: Aqua (Water), Cetrimonium Chloride) (Cognis)
  • Dehyquart ® F75 fatty alcohols Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfat--dialkyl-mixture (INCI name: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol) (HENKEL)
  • Dow Corning ® 200 fluid polydimethylsiloxane (INCI designation: Dimethicone) (Dow Corning)
  • Dow Corning ® Q2-5220 silicone glycol copolymer (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol) (Dow Corning)
  • Eumulgin B2 ® cetylstearyl alcohol with about 20 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (Cognis) Euperlan ® PK3000 about 60-64% solids; INCI name: Glycol Distearate, Glycerol, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine) (Cognis)
  • Gluadin ® WLM wheat protein hydrolyzate (about 21-24% solids, INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (Cognis)
  • Gluadin ® WQ wheat protein hydrolyzate (about 31-35% solids, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben) (Cognis)
  • Plantacare ® 818UP C8-14 alkyl polyglucoside (ca. 51-53% Akticsubstanzgehalt; INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Aqua (Water)) (Cog nis) PVP / VA W-635 vinyl pyrrolidone vinyl acetate copolymer (Ca.48-52 % Fest ⁇ body in water; INCI name: VP / VA copolymer) (ISP) Rewoquat W75 ® l-methyl-2-nortalgalkyl-3-talgfett Anlagenreamidoethyl- imidazolinium methosulphate (75% active substance in production pylenglykol; INCI Name: Quaternium-27, Propylene Glycol) (WITCO)
  • Salcare ® SC 96 about 50% active ingredient content; INCI name: Polyquaternium-37, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, PPG-1 Trideceth-6 (CIBA)

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un agent de traitement de fibres kératiniques, renfermant au moins une protéase et au moins un autre composant choisi parmi des hydrolysats de protéines, des vitamines, des provitamines et des précurseurs de vitamines, ainsi que leurs dérivés. L'invention concerne en outre des utilisations correspondantes ainsi que des procédés de traitement des fibres kératiniques.
PCT/EP2005/008875 2004-08-26 2005-08-16 Nouvel agent de traitement de fibres keratiniques Ceased WO2006021350A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE200410041573 DE102004041573A1 (de) 2004-08-26 2004-08-26 Neues Mittel zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern
DE102004041573.0 2004-08-26

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WO2006021350A1 true WO2006021350A1 (fr) 2006-03-02

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PCT/EP2005/008875 Ceased WO2006021350A1 (fr) 2004-08-26 2005-08-16 Nouvel agent de traitement de fibres keratiniques

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WO (1) WO2006021350A1 (fr)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2006094309A3 (fr) * 2005-03-04 2006-11-23 Procter & Gamble Compositions pour hygiene corporelle s'eliminant par rinçage, et contenant des lipides a module eleve
FR2949969A1 (fr) * 2009-09-11 2011-03-18 Svr Lab Composition cosmetique a base d'uree pure, utilisation et procede d'application correspondant
US8147853B2 (en) 2005-02-15 2012-04-03 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal care compositions containing hydrophobically modified non-platelet particles
CN103431172A (zh) * 2013-08-27 2013-12-11 江苏康科食品工程技术有限公司 一种小麦蛋白肽的制备方法
EP4635576A1 (fr) * 2024-04-16 2025-10-22 Basf Se Protéases pour le soin des cheveux

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US9745543B2 (en) * 2012-09-10 2017-08-29 Ecolab Usa Inc. Stable liquid manual dishwashing compositions containing enzymes

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US4508707A (en) * 1981-11-09 1985-04-02 Kakudai Shosan Kabushiki Kaisha Hair tonic composition
US5738879A (en) * 1995-11-15 1998-04-14 Rine; Jasper M. Scalp hair treatment method and composition
DE19649098A1 (de) * 1996-11-27 1998-05-28 Beiersdorf Ag Antiadhäsive Proteasen
US6106828A (en) * 1996-02-15 2000-08-22 Novo Nordisk A/S Conjugation of polypeptides
US6245342B1 (en) * 1996-12-12 2001-06-12 Lancaster Group Gmbh Cosmetic preparation with a peptide addition
WO2002022102A1 (fr) * 2000-09-13 2002-03-21 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions cosmetiques
WO2002022100A1 (fr) * 2000-09-13 2002-03-21 The Procter & Gamble Company Traitement cosmetique
FR2817475A1 (fr) * 2000-12-04 2002-06-07 Rocher Yves Biolog Vegetale Utilisation d'une association proteases-source de retinol pour s'opposer au vieillissement cutane
US6416769B1 (en) * 2000-03-03 2002-07-09 Australian Importers, Ltd. Cosmetic compositions comprising exfoliating enzymes and uses thereof
JP2004182687A (ja) * 2002-12-05 2004-07-02 Kao Corp エラスターゼ阻害剤

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4508707A (en) * 1981-11-09 1985-04-02 Kakudai Shosan Kabushiki Kaisha Hair tonic composition
US5738879A (en) * 1995-11-15 1998-04-14 Rine; Jasper M. Scalp hair treatment method and composition
US6106828A (en) * 1996-02-15 2000-08-22 Novo Nordisk A/S Conjugation of polypeptides
DE19649098A1 (de) * 1996-11-27 1998-05-28 Beiersdorf Ag Antiadhäsive Proteasen
US6245342B1 (en) * 1996-12-12 2001-06-12 Lancaster Group Gmbh Cosmetic preparation with a peptide addition
US6416769B1 (en) * 2000-03-03 2002-07-09 Australian Importers, Ltd. Cosmetic compositions comprising exfoliating enzymes and uses thereof
WO2002022102A1 (fr) * 2000-09-13 2002-03-21 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions cosmetiques
WO2002022100A1 (fr) * 2000-09-13 2002-03-21 The Procter & Gamble Company Traitement cosmetique
FR2817475A1 (fr) * 2000-12-04 2002-06-07 Rocher Yves Biolog Vegetale Utilisation d'une association proteases-source de retinol pour s'opposer au vieillissement cutane
JP2004182687A (ja) * 2002-12-05 2004-07-02 Kao Corp エラスターゼ阻害剤

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Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8147853B2 (en) 2005-02-15 2012-04-03 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal care compositions containing hydrophobically modified non-platelet particles
WO2006094309A3 (fr) * 2005-03-04 2006-11-23 Procter & Gamble Compositions pour hygiene corporelle s'eliminant par rinçage, et contenant des lipides a module eleve
WO2006096677A3 (fr) * 2005-03-04 2007-02-15 Procter & Gamble Procedes de nettoyage de la peau et compositions de rinçage ou de nettoyage correspondantes
US8563491B2 (en) 2005-03-04 2013-10-22 The Procter & Gamble Company Methods of cleansing skin and rinse-off or wipe-off compositions therefor
US9237995B2 (en) 2005-03-04 2016-01-19 The Procter & Gamble Company Methods of cleansing skin and rinse-off or wipe-off compositions therefor
FR2949969A1 (fr) * 2009-09-11 2011-03-18 Svr Lab Composition cosmetique a base d'uree pure, utilisation et procede d'application correspondant
CN103431172A (zh) * 2013-08-27 2013-12-11 江苏康科食品工程技术有限公司 一种小麦蛋白肽的制备方法
EP4635576A1 (fr) * 2024-04-16 2025-10-22 Basf Se Protéases pour le soin des cheveux

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