RU2241440C2 - Cosmetic preparation for taking care of problematic skin and method for its obtaining - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: the suggested cosmetic preparation contains a gel-forming component, conserving agents, glycerol, BAS, liposomes, flavoring, water, additionally, it contains vegetable oil, paraform, emulsifier - polyethylene glycol, as a gel-forming component one should apply ammonium salt of rare-sutured copolymer of acrylic acid and polyallylic ethers of pentaerythrite, as liposomes one should apply liposomal suspension of plant and animal origin. Preparation should be obtained due to preparing a gel-forming component with an emulsifier, mixing it with fatty components, conserving agents, emulsifiers, followed by BAS addition and flavoring, moreover, a gel-forming component should be prepared at 20-25 C, followed by filtration, dilution with mineral or mineralized water, addition of glycerol, emulsifier and a fatty component - vegetable oil and conserving agents to be heated up to 60-70 C, emulsified for 30-40 min and cooled up to 35-40 C, then one should add liposomal suspension, flavoring to be again emulsified for 30-40 min. The preparation obtained causes no general toxic, irritating and allergistic action, it has got homogeneous consistency, it should be steadily spread over the skin being of antiphlogistic action.

EFFECT: higher efficiency of application.

5 cl, 1 ex

Description

The invention relates to cosmetology, in particular to cosmetics for the care of problematic skin. Problematic skin is characterized by excessive secretion of sebum, manifestations of seborrheic dermatitis, enlarged ducts of the sebaceous glands, and proliferation of the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

Recently, a variety of biologically active additives (BAA) have been actively introduced into the formulation of cosmetic compositions, which have a regulatory effect on biochemical processes and functional disorders of the skin. Vitamins, enzymes, phosphorus-containing substances, extracts of plants, animal raw materials, beekeeping products, etc. are used as dietary supplements.

Extracts of medicinal plants are of considerable interest due to their low cost, availability and a wide range of useful components contained in them.

Known means for skin care based on an oil extract of chamomile, string, sage, nettle, mint, calendula, pericarp of rose hips, pollen pollen (AS USSR No. 1683750, A 61 K 7/00).

The proposed extract is lipophilic in nature and contains carotenoids, tocopherols, phylloquinones, flavonoids, steroids, terpenoids, which have high antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory properties.

However, this agent has an insufficient amount of biologically active substances, since oil extraction does not provide a more complete extraction of biologically active substances in comparison with chloroform.

Known biologically active additive for cosmetic products, which is a lipid complex obtained by alcohol-water extraction of senna and containing carbohydrates, stearins, carotenoids, chlorophyll derivatives, proteins, tocopherol, fatty acids, minerals (Pat. RF No. 2053763, A 61 K 7/48). The additive is included in various cosmetics, for example in lotions for facial skin care, and has an active biological effect on lipid metabolism. Due to the high alcohol content, a burning sensation may occur. The product can cause allergic reactions.

The closest to the purpose is a cosmetic gel for problem skin, which as a biologically active substance contains water-alcohol extracts of such medicinal plants as calendula, burdock, horsetail, chestnut, oak, wormwood, eucalyptus, string, mint. As an anti-acne component, the product contains a liposomal suspension and an antiseptic (Pat. RF No. 2150264 C1, A 61 K 7/00, 7/48). The gel contains moisturizing and gel-forming components, perfume composition, drinking water.

The disadvantages of the gel are vitamin deficiency, the short duration of exposure to biologically active substances due to the non-liposomal form of extracts of biologically active substances of plant origin.

A thorough study of the biological and functional activity of liposomes has opened up the possibility of using their transport function, which is the delivery of biologically active substances, vitamins into the skin cell.

When using liposomes as carriers for the targeted transport of nutrients and drugs into the skin cells, a number of advantages are manifested: biological compatibility with the human body, the absence of allergic, toxic, pyrogenic effects of transported components, prolonged action of drugs introduced into skin cells by the human body, and the absence of allergic, toxic , the pyrogenic effect of the transported components, the prolongation of the action introduced into skin cells, etc. drugs, reducing the number of drugs introduced into the cosmetic product while maintaining the effect of their effects, the ability to include several biologically active substances in the membrane and the internal contents of liposomes.

The consistent stability and penetrating power of cosmetics with biologically active additives in the form of liposome preparations is determined by the technology of their preparation. The traditional technology for the preparation of creams involves obtaining a cream base, which is an oil-in-water emulsion, stabilized and brought to the required consistency by adding various structure-forming components and preservatives, followed by the addition of a biologically active additive and emulsification of it in the cream base.

A known method of obtaining a cream for facial skin containing a biologically active substance (Pat. RF №20220923, A 61 K 7/00).

The technology for preparing the cream includes preparing an aqueous solution of emulsifiers, preparing a fat base with a melt of components at 80-85 ° C, mixing water and fat mass, emulsifying the mixture at 85 ° C, cooling it to 50 ° C, adding an aqueous solution of a biologically active additive and perfume, slow cooling with stirring.

Famous creams containing biologically active substances in liposome form are also prepared according to the same principle (Pat. RF No. 2036637, A 61 K 7/00; Pat. RF No. 2045261, A 61 K 7/00).

This technology for obtaining creams containing liposomal components is not effective enough, because in the oil-in-water emulsion, which is free-dispersed, when phospholipid vesicles are added to it, there is no interaction between the dispersion particles. As a result, particles participate in random thermal motion, move freely under the influence of gravity. This is the reason for the instability of the cream, insufficiently effective permeability of biologically active substances into the skin.

The aim of the invention is to increase the anti-inflammatory, regenerative, vitamin effects of cosmetics by introducing a biologically active additive, providing the possibility of industrial production of the product using inexpensive components and fairly simple technology.

The goal is achieved by the fact that in the formulation of the cream as a fat base used vegetable oil high oleic sunflower 1.8-2.0 wt.%. In vegetable oils, the content of unsaturated fatty acids is 60-90%, so the presence of a vegetable fat base increases the emollient and nutritional ability of the cream. Introduction to the formulation of vegetable high oleic oil less than 1.8 wt.% Does not provide a softening and nourishing effect, and the introduction of more than 2% of vegetable oil creates an overwhelming effect, which is contraindicated for problem skin.

The exclusion from the cream formulation of a solid fat base protects the skin from the formation of a greasy film and increases the degree of cream penetration into the skin.

To give the cream colloidal stability, it is necessary and sufficient to introduce the following components in the formulation, wt.%:

Crosslinked ammonium salt

acrylic acid copolymer

and polyallyl ethers

pentaerythritol (AKSAM) 0.8-1.0

Polyethylene glycol 1.5-2.0

The decrease in the content of AKSAM below 0.8 wt.%, PEG oleate below 1.0 wt.% Leads to a violation of colloidal stability. The increase in the content of stabilizers above the values in the formulation of wt.% Leads to a strong thickening of the cream.

As a consistent additive increasing the moisture capacity of the cream, it is necessary and sufficient to introduce glycerol 3.5-4.0 wt.% Into the formulation. The glycerol content below 3.5 wt.% Or above 4.0 wt.% Does not provide the required consistency and moisture capacity of the cream.

To give the cream microbiological stability, it is necessary and sufficient to introduce the following preservatives into the cream formulation, wt.%:

P-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.2-0.3

P-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.1-0.15

Paraform 0.02-0.03

A decrease in the content of preservatives (paraform, nipagin and nipazole) leads to a violation of microbiological stability during storage. An increase in the content of preservatives can cause skin irritation, as well as adversely affect the structure of the liposomal suspension.

Introduction to the formulation of a suspension of liposomes of 20 wt.% Provides an effective effect on problem skin of biologically active components isolated during chloroform extraction from a mixture of medicinal herbs.

A decrease in the content of liposomal suspension does not ensure the delivery of the required amount of biologically active substances to the skin cell.

The increase in the content of liposomes does not give a pronounced cosmetic effect, and is also not economically feasible.

To give the cream a pleasant smell, a fragrance of 0.2-0.4 wt.% Was introduced into the formulation. Introduction below 0.2 wt.% Does not provide the desired tone of the smell, the introduction of above 0.4 wt.% Perfumes creates a pungent odor.

The introduction of mineral or mineralized water into the formulation of a cosmetic product makes it possible to expand the spectrum of trace elements.

The inventive method for producing a cosmetic product includes preparing an aqueous emulsion of a gelling component - a copolymer of acrylic acid and polyallyl pentazritrite esters at 20-25 ° C, filtering the emulsion, diluting with mineral or mineralized water in the ratio with distilled water 50%: 50% and adding glycerol, emulsifier - polyethylene glycol, fatty base - vegetable oil and preservatives - methyl ether of paraoxybenzoic acid and propyl ether of paraoxybenzoic acid, heating the mixture about 60-70 ° C and emulsification for 30-40 min, followed by cooling the emulsion to 35-40 ° C, adding a suspension of liposomes, perfumes, emulsifying within 30-40 min.

The causal relationship of the distinctive features of the composition and method of obtaining a cosmetic product for the care of problematic facial skin with the achievement of a technical result is manifested in the following.

Introduction to the formulation as a biologically active additive of a 20 wt.% Suspension of liposomes from a mixture of animal and vegetable phospholipids with the chloroform extract of the herbal complex of medicinal herbs — chamomile, St. John’s wort, sage, dioica nettle, tree aloe juice, sea buckthorn oil , provides an increase in anti-inflammatory, regenerating, vitaminizing properties of the drug.

The increased active principle of a biologically active additive of the claimed invention in comparison with known analogues is due to a number of factors. The joint use of extracts of lipids of plant and animal origin makes it possible to construct liposomes from the highest possible qualitative composition of phospho- and glycolipids. The chloroform extraction of phyto-collection allows to extract not only vitamins A, E, K, PP, B, unsaturated fatty acids, but also phytoglycolipids. Other well-known methods for the extraction of biologically active substances (aqueous, saline, alcoholic, carbon-containing) do not provide sufficient, complete extraction of lipid components (Pat. RF No. 2020944, A 61 K 35/10; Pat. RF No. 2040265, A 61 K 35/78 )

In addition, the chloroform extract is involved in the incorporation of plant-derived lipids and other useful components into the liposome membrane from animal and plant lipids in the preparation of liposomes by the reverse phase method.

The use of chloroform extracts of herbs of chamomile, nettle, St. John's wort, sage, aloe juice, sea buckthorn oil allows you to extract a complex of biologically active components to give the cream the desired properties, and the interaction of all components provides a powerful synergistic effect. The anti-inflammatory and disinfecting effect is achieved thanks to azulenes in combination with sesquiterpenoids contained in the extract of St. John's wort, chamomile, nettle, and sage. The action of azulenes and sesquiterpenoids is enhanced by the tannins of the paracatechin series contained in extracts of nettle, sage and chamomile. Anthracene derivatives contained in aloe juice and St. John's wort extract have bactericidal and biostimulating, as well as powerful antimicrobial effects.

Carotenoids, vitamins PP, K, B vitamins (sea buckthorn, chamomile, sage, St. John's wort, nettle) have an epithelizing, healing, and fortifying effect on the skin.

The presence of vitamin E in the nettle extract in combination with nettles and St. John's wort tannins provides a sufficient antioxidant effect, which ensures the inhibition of peroxide reactions and the formation of free radicals.

The use of mineral or mineralized water with a high content of trace elements in the formulation of the invention allows to intensify the synthesis of collagen of connective tissue, saturation of cells with essential trace elements inhibits inflammatory reactions, stimulates regeneration processes in skin cells.

The possibility of practical use of the claimed receptors and methods for producing cosmetic products is illustrated by an example of a specific implementation.

Example 1. Mineral or mineralized water is poured into the mixer (water corresponds to SanPin 2.3.2 560-96 p. 6.8.1.2.), Based on the calculation of filling the apparatus volume by 70% and with the stirrer turned on, add AKSAM (ammonium salt of a rare crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and polyallyl pentaerythritol esters, TU 301-02-143-90) at the rate of 10 g of AKSAM per 1 liter of solution. The mixture is stirred at 20-25 ° C for 20-30 minutes. The resulting jelly-like mass is passed through a sedimentary strainer. In the reactor, the jelly-like mass is diluted with distilled water to 1% AKSAM and, with a stirrer operating at a speed of 60 rpm, glycerin (GOST 6824-76) is added at the rate of 4.0% of the total volume of finished products, PEG-400 oleate (polyethylene glycol, TU 18-16-94-82), high oleic vegetable oil at the rate of 2.0% of the total volume of the finished product and paraforms (TU 6-05-930-78) at the rate of 0.03% of the total volume of the finished product, paraoxybenzoic methyl ester acid (TU 18-16-386-81) at the rate of 0.3% and propyl ester of paraoxybenzoic acid (TU 18-16-387-81) at the rate of 0.1% of the total volume of finished products. The mixture is heated in the reactor to 60-70 ° C and stirred for 30-40 minutes. Then the mixture is cooled to 40-45 ° C and a suspension of liposomes containing the organic extract of the phytocomplex at the rate of 20% suspension of the total volume of the finished product is slowly poured into the reaction mass, fragrance (TU 10-04-16-39-89) is added at the rate of 0 , 2% to the total volume of the finished product.

The resulting mass is stirred for 30-40 minutes, cooling it to 30 ° C, and sent for filtration and packaging.

The organic extract of the phytocomplex is prepared as follows. Dried and ground medicinal herbs are kept under a bactericidal lamp for 3 hours. Then the mixture of herbs is poured with chloroform in a ratio of 1:20, the suspension is stirred and insisted with stirring in a dark place for 7-10 days. At the end of the extraction, the suspension is defended and the supernatant is separated.

A suspension of liposomes from phospholipids and lipids of plant and animal origin is prepared by the reverse phase method.

The claimed content of all components in the formulation of the cosmetic product optimally ensures the achievement of the desired effect.

An experimental batch of the claimed cosmetic products was tested at the Pyatigorsk State Pharmaceutical Academy at the Department of Drug Technology, as well as at the Alpika Beauty and Health Center in Stavropol in order to evaluate the irritating and allergenic effects, effects on the liver and the morphological structure of the skin. Experimental clinical trials were conducted on women aged 17 to 28 years, on laboratory animals.

The results of the studies showed that the cosmetic product with prolonged skin application for 30 days did not have a general toxic, irritating and allergenic effect.

The results of morphological studies in experimental animals indicate the absence of pathological changes in the structure of the epidermis, dermis and liver.

The hydrogen index of the cosmetic product is 7.4 with acceptable standards of 4.5-9.0.

The cosmetic product has a pleasant smell, delicate and uniform consistency, is evenly applied to the skin, is quickly absorbed, does not leave a greasy shine.

Using the claimed composition of the cream will allow you to organize the mass production of inexpensive and effective cosmetics of domestic production.

Claims (5)

1. Cosmetic product for the care of problem skin containing a gel-forming component, preservatives - methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid, glycerin, biologically active substances - plant extracts, liposomes, perfume, water, characterized in that it additionally contains vegetable oil, paraform, emulsifier - polyethylene glycol, in this case, as the gelling component, the ammonium salt of the rare crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and polyallyl pentaerythritol esters is used, liposomes are used uspenziyu liposomes of plant and animal origin in the following component ratio, wt.%: Vegetable oil 1.8-2.0 Cosmetic glycerin 3.5-4.0 Paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.2-0.3 Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.1-0.15 Paraform 0.02-0.03 Suspension of liposomes containing extracts of plant and animal origin 8.0-20.0 Fragrance 0.2-0.4 Ammonium salt of the crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and polyallyl esters of pentaerythritol 0.8-1.0 Polyethylene glycol 1.5-2.0 Water Up to 100% 2. Cosmetic product for the care of problem skin according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains up to 20 wt.% Suspension of liposomes obtained from a mixture of animal and vegetable phospholipids. 3. A cosmetic product for the care of problematic facial skin according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the liposome suspension contains a phytocomplex of dried medicinal herbs of chamomile, nettle, St. John's wort, perforated sage, as well as aloe juice and tree-buckthorn oil. 4. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that the water used is distilled, or mineral, or mineralized water. 5. A method of obtaining a cosmetic product for the care of problematic skin of the face, including the preparation of a gelling component - a copolymer of acrylic acid and polyallyl esters of pentaerythritol with an emulsifier, mixing it with fat components, preservatives, emulsifiers, adding a biologically active substance and perfumes, characterized in that it is gelling the component is prepared at 20-25 ° C, then filtered, diluted with mineral or mineralized water and glycerin is added, the emulsifier is polyethylene glycol, a fatty com ponent vegetable oil and preservatives paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester, paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester, paraform, the mixture is heated to 60-70 ° C, emulsified for 30-40 min, cooled to 35-40 ° C, add a suspension of liposomes, perfume and emulsify again within 30-40 minutes