RU2005471C1 - Cream for face skin - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics. SUBSTANCE: cream containing emulsifying base (cosmetic stearin, emulsion waxes, glycerol monostearate, modified CO₂), extractions from carrot seeds and rice waste, egg oil, triethanolamine, methyl and propyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, perfume and water has additionally: vegetable oil, ethyl alcohol, extractions from matricary in the form of complex α-extract from matricary and carrot seeds or from matricary, rice waste and carrot seeds, D, L-lecithin. Addition of complex CO₂-extract from matricary and carrot seeds or from matricary, rice waste and carrot seeds in combination with emulsifying base and other components of cream provides high enrichment of skin with lipoids and vitamins and normalizes lipid metabolism. EFFECT: enhanced quality of cream.

Description

 The invention relates to cosmetics and for the production of cream for dry and normal skin.

 Known cream formulations containing emulsifiers, softeners, vitamins, antioxidants, bactericidal and antiseptic additives, including plant and animal origin.

 For example, cream for facial skin care according to the copyright certificate N 1611447 contains, by weight. %: emulsion wax 1-4; stearin 1-5; glycerol monostearate 1.5-5; monoglycerides 1.5-5; beeswax 1-4; lanolin 0.5-3; stearates of ethanol extract of the resinous part of peat wax 0.2-1.5; olive oil 5-10; mink oil 1-4; glycerin 2-5; triethanolamine 0.2-1; 20% water-alcohol infusion from Rhodiola rosea biomass 5-10; alcohol 1-5; POBK methyl ester 0.15-0.5; propyl ether POBK 0.05-0.2; paraform 0.03-0.05; perfume 0.5-1; water is the rest.

 Cream copyright certificate N 1140785 contains, by weight. %: olive oil 4-6; mink fat 3.5-5.5, ethanolated lanolin 0.5-1.5, sorbic acid 0.05-0.1, ionol 0.05-0.2, spermaceti or vitamin 3-5, PEG-400 stearate 3-5, isopropyl palmitate 2-4, glycerin 3-7, glycerol monostearate 8-12, DEG 2-5 stearate, methyl 0.2-0.5 and propyl 0.1-0.2 paraoxybenzoic acid esters, carbon dioxide sprout extract barley 0.03-0.07 or carbon dioxide extract of wheat bran 0.1-0.3, carbon dioxide extract of carrot seeds 0.15-0.25, dye 0.05-0.08, triethanolamine 0.1-0.2 citric acid 0.05-0.1; perfume 0.6-1.0, distilled water - the rest.

Closest to the claimed cream for facial skin according to the copyright certificate N 1510133, in which the components are taken in the following proportions, wt. %: Emulsifier 6-10 Isopropyl palmitate 1-3 Egg oil 0.5-1.5 Oil extract of mountain ash 2-6 Sea buckthorn concentrate 0.1-0.3 Complex carbon dioxide
extract of rice waste and carrot seeds 0.1-1.0 Triethanolamine 0.5-1.5 Glycerin 1-3 Methyl ether POBK 0.2-0.4 Propyl ether POBK 0.1-0.3 Ionol 0.05- 0.3 Paraform 0.01-0.05 Benzyl alcohol 0.2-0.8 Fragrance 0.5-1.5 Water Else
The lipid complex of biologically active substances - CO ₂ -extract of a complex biostimulant from rice waste and carrot seeds, rowan oil and egg oil in combination with sea buckthorn concentrate and emulsifying cream base ensures the stability of the liquid emulsion of the cream. The softening base of the cream is represented by a combination of isopropyl palmitate, glycerin, ionol and triethanolamine.

 The purpose of this cream for facial skin is that the proposed cream has increased hydrate properties.

 The aim of this invention is to obtain a highly effective cream that provides lipoid enrichment of the skin.

The goal is achieved by the fact that in the proposed tool containing an emulsifying base, egg oil extractives of carrot seeds and rice waste, glycerin, triethanolamine, methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid, fragrance and water, ethanol, vegetable oil, lanolin, and extractive substances of chamomile as part of a complex CO ₂ -extract from chamomile and carrot seeds or from seeds of carrot, chamomile and rice waste, and L- α-lecithin as a substitute for egg oil in the following ratio components, wt. %: Cosmetic stearin 1-5 Emulsion waxes 0.2-3.0 Glycerol monostearate 2-8 Modified PEL 0.5-3.0 Vegetable oil 5-10 Egg oil or L-α-lecithin 0.1-0.5 Anhydrous lanolin 0.5-3.0 Complex CO ₂ extract from chamomile and carrot seeds or from chamomile, rice waste from Carrot seeds 0.05-0.8 Triethanolamine 0.1-1.0 Glycerin 2.0-8, 0 Paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.05-0.3 Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.01-0.1 Ethyl alcohol 1.0-5.0 Fragrance 0.5-1.5 Water Up to 100.0
The presence in the cream formulation of complex CO ₂ extract N 21 or N 27 with a high content of chamomile provides an increase in anti-inflammatory properties. The effect of chamomile preparations on the skin is due to a complex of pharmacological properties of physiologically active substances contained in the plant (essential oil, azulene, flavonoids, polysaccharides, vitamins). The use of the cream helps to soften and moisturize the skin, enhance metabolism, activate capillary circulation, and improve skin color. Due to the selected complex of biologically active substances from chamomile, carrot seeds and rice waste, the cream has an antiseptic, antispasmodic, sedative effect, stimulates tissue regeneration and healing processes.

 Egg oil is a thick, homogeneous liquid, syrupy from light yellow to dark yellow in color with a pleasant smell characteristic of egg yolk, without the smell of rancid oil. It contains unsaturated fatty acids, including biologically active linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic, i.e., the so-called plant-derived vitamins F, which have biogenic stimulating properties, improve metabolic processes, causing epithelization of wounded sites, and tissue repair. When applied to the skin, they penetrate deep into the tissue and increase the protective properties of the body. Iodine number, not less than 25.0, refractive index 1,430-1,470.

Complex CO ₂ -extract No. 21 was obtained by extraction of a blend of raw pharmaceutical chamomile (0.9) and carrot seeds (0.1) and corresponds to TU 10.048549.009-90. The composition of the complex CO ₂ extract N 21 includes,%: saponified fraction - 62.3, unsaponifiable fraction - 18.65, free fatty acids - 23, waxes - 0.78-1.22, essential oil - 11.29, azulene - 0.053, tocopherols - 0.37, sterols - 0.87, carotenoids - (3.9-5.7) ˙ 10 ^-3 . Carotenoids contribute to the strengthening of metabolic processes, tissue regeneration.

 Chamomile extracts contain an essential oil consisting of the main biologically active substance - chamazulene, its predecessor - prochamazulene and other monosterpenes and sesquiterpenes. Of the sesquiterpenes, lactones — matricin and matricarin — are of paramount importance. Sesquiterpene hydrocarbons (farnesene and cadinene), sesquiterpene alcohols (bisabolol, bisabololoxide, keto alcohol), caprylic acid are found in essential oil.

 The anti-inflammatory effect of chamomile is due to the presence of chamazulene. Chamazulen, in addition to the established and proven anti-inflammatory effect, also has an antispasmodic effect. The antispasmodic effect is also inherent in the flavono and coumarin derivatives contained in the chamomile.

 Chamazulen, prochamazulen and matricin have sedative and local anesthetic effects.

 The main biologically active components of carrot seeds are: fatty oil, which contains glycerides of palmitic, oleic, linoleic acids, protein, fiber, tannins, carotene, tocopherols (vitamin E), vitamin D. Citral, caratol, and daucol are isolated from essential oils , asarone, cineole, α-pinene. The presence of valuable AD components causes a bactericidal, calming effect of carrot seeds.

 The fatty oil in the carrot seed extract is a good plasticizer and synergist for vitamins D and E.

 Due to the presence of a number of valuable biologically active substances, blend N 21 is a vitamin complex of plasticizing, regenerating, anti-inflammatory, disinfecting, anti-allergic effects.

Complex CO ₂ -extract No. 27 was obtained by extraction of liquid blend carbon dioxide mixture of raw materials: carrot seeds, rice waste, chamomile and corresponds to TU 10.048549.009-90. The extract contains,%: saponified fraction - 68.6, unsaponifiable fraction - 18.4, free acids - 1.98, tocopherols - 0.12, sterols - 0.46, waxes - 5.1, essential oil - 1 ,8. Acid fractions contain high molecular weight unsaturated fatty acids, linoleic and linolenic.

 A complex of substances extracted from plant mixtures of chamomile and carrot or chamomile seeds, carrot seeds and rice waste enhances the cleansing effect of the product, prevents the rancidity of fatty components, reduces sebum secretion and inflammatory skin reactions, accelerates the resorption of acne and psoriatic papules. The presence of specific components of chamomile provides a good photoprotective effect.

 Rice waste waxes have the ability to increase the resistance of the resulting film, which allows more uniform distribution of biologically active components and stabilizes their content in the film for a long time due to the content of tocopherols in rice waste and carrot seeds, which have antioxidant effects. Thanks to the complex of biologically active substances of extract No. 27, inflammatory reactions of the skin are reduced, metabolic processes in the skin are strengthened, the walls of blood vessels are strengthened, and skin tone is increased.

 The presence in the extract of a large amount of free acids and acidic components provides a decrease in the alkalinity of the product, which has a beneficial effect on the skin, reducing its dryness. A fine dispersion of the components of the extracts contributes to their penetration into the pores of the skin, which has a beneficial therapeutic effect.

The combination of valuable components extracted with liquid carbon dioxide gives CO ₂ extracts from chamomile and carrot seeds or from chamomile, rice waste and carrot seeds in combination with other components of the cream formulation: egg oil, lanolin, vegetable oil - the property of lipoid skin enrichment due to a balanced combination biologically active high molecular weight acids - linoleic and linolenic (vitamin F). Waxes contained in CO ₂ -extracts, possessing the ability to absorb a large amount of moisture, bind and hold it, provides good absorption of the cream through the pores of the skin, prevents its "oiling" and the formation on the skin of a dense film of fat that interferes with the "breathing" of the skin and enriching it with oxygen .

, где Р_э - дозировка экстракта, % ;
Р_БАВ - дозировка биологически активных компонентов экстрактов (каротиноидов, токоферолов, витамина F), % :
С_БАВ - концентрация БАВ в экстракте, % .Boundary dosage values of CO ₂ extracts from chamomile and carrot seeds or from chamomile, rice waste and carrot seeds are justified by the presence of the main biologically active components - carotenoids, tocopherols, vitamin F. Preliminary dosages of the extracts were determined by the formula:
P _e =

where P _e - dosage of the extract,%;
R _BAS - dosage of biologically active components of the extracts (carotenoids, tocopherols, vitamin F),%:
With _{biologically active substances} - the concentration of biologically active substances in the extract,%.

The dosage of complex CO ₂ -extracts N 21 or N 27 is taken from the content of biologically active substances in them - carotenoids, tocopherols, vitamins and the existing limits for their introduction into cosmetic preparations. Changing the dosages of cosmetic stearin, emulsion waxes, triethanolamine, glycerol, glycerol monostearate and other components of the cream are taken in accordance with the established standards for their application in various cosmetic products. Changing the bookmark of these components within the limits indicated as boundary values does not change the basic physicochemical parameters.

In accordance with the task of creating the formulation of a new highly effective cream that provides lipoid enrichment of the skin, it became necessary to combine previously known biostimulants: egg oil, vegetable oil, lanolin with new CO ₂ extracts complex from chamomile, carrot seeds or chamomile, rice waste and seeds carrots to get a complete complex of biostimulants. The selection of the proposed complex of biologically active components was preceded by the study of the task of creating a cream for the care of dry and normal skin of the face and neck, the study of the properties and composition of extracts, the study of the effect of the dosages of the extracts on the stability of the cream, both structural and maintaining the concentration of labile biologically active components of the extracts.

Using mathematical planning according to the scheme of orthogonal Latin rectangles for four factors at four levels, the effect of dosages of complex CO ₂ extract from chamomile and carrot seeds N 21 or from chamomile, carrot seeds and rice waste N 27, vegetable oil, egg oil or L was studied - α-lecithin and lanolin on the physico-chemical characteristics of the cream and the content of valuable biologically active substances.

Based on the matrix, taking into account the selected concentration levels of the complex СО ₂ -extract N 21 (N 27), lanolin, vegetable and egg oil, an experimental plan is drawn up.

 The studied parameters for evaluating the quality of the cream were the content of vitamin F, pH, the mass fraction of bound alkali, and the presence of intradermal lipids.

As the levels of factor A (type of extract) - "complex CO ₂ -extract N 21 (or N 27)" 0.01-0.3-0.5-1.0 were determined; factor B - "vegetable oil": 3-6-9-12; factor C - "egg oil": 0.05-0.2-0.4-0.8; factor D - "lanolin": 0.1-1.0-2.0-4.0.

 An experimental plan was drawn up for the selected levels of the studied factors (Table 1). The concentrations of the remaining components were fixed at one (averaged) level.

 In accordance with the plan of the experiment, samples of the mixtures were prepared according to the cream formulation with various dosages of the components. Subsequently, samples were analyzed. The data obtained are mathematically processed in order to determine the effects of the levels of each factor for all indicators (table. 2).

The lipid complex of CO ₂ extracts from chamomile and carrot seeds, or from chamomile, carrot seeds and rice waste, due to its balanced combination with egg, vegetable oil, not only does not saturate the skin with fatty components, excluding overdosing, but thanks to the water-holding and hygroscopic ability of the extract macromolecules in environment of emulsifying and other components of the cream provides the normalization of fat metabolism, promotes lipoid enrichment of the skin.

 In order to determine the effect of the developed dosages of extracts in relation to the minimum, maximum, average values of all components of the cream formulation on the content of vitamins, on the hydrogen index and the content of bound alkali, on the amount of intradermal lipids, a series of experiments was carried out according to Table 4.

A method for preparing the cream is as follows: In the digester (the apparatus) was charged with water with a temperature of 75-80 ^{° C,} preservatives (methyl and propyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters), glycerol, vegetable oil. Heat to 80 ° ^C. The melting pot was charged stearin, lanolin, glycerol monostearate, modified PEL, egg oil (or L- α-lecithin), vegetable extracts. Melt and heat to 80-85 ^{° C,} then added to the digester operating at a stirrer while gradually introduced triethanolamine. The mass is emulsified, and then pumped into the boiler-condenser cooled to 45-50 ° ^C. Next administered ethyl alcohol and perfume. After cooling the cream to 30 ^° C, a sample is taken and passed for analysis. The cream is left to stand for 3 hours, and then served in packaging. The following are examples of cream preparation (table. 4) according to the recipe 1 and 8 per 10 kg of the finished product.

EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1. In a digester is charged with 9.948 kg of water at 75-80 ^{° C,} 0.005 kg of methyl POBK 0.001 kg propyl POBK, 0.2 kg glycerin, 0.3 kg of vegetable oil. Heat to 80 ° ^C. The melting pot was charged with 0.1 kg stearin, lanolin 0.01 kg, 0.2 kg glycerol monostearate 0.05 kg of modified PEL, egg oil 0.005 kg and 0.001 kg CO ₂ extract of 21 complex N from chamomile and carrot seeds. Melt and heat to 80-85 ^{° C,} then added to the digester operating at a stirrer while gradually introduce 0.01 kg of triethanolamine. The mass is emulsified, and then pumped into the boiler-condenser cooled to 45-50 ^C. Then 0.1 kg of alcohol is introduced, and 0.05 kg of perfume.

After cooling to 30 ° ^C the cream was allowed to stand for 3 hours and fed to the packaging of.

PRI me R 2. In the digester load 6.8895 kg of water with a temperature of 75-80 ^about C, 0.0175 kg of methyl ether POBK, 0.0055 kg of propyl ether POBK, 0.5 kg of glycerol, 0.75 kg of vegetable oil. Heat to 80 ° ^C. The melting pot was charged with 0.3 kg stearin, lanolin 0.175 kg, 0.5 kg glycerol monostearate, modified PEL 0.175 kg, 0.03 kg L- α -letsitina and 0.0425 kg of _CO2-extract Integrated N 27 from chamomile carrot seeds and rice waste. Melt and heat to 80-85 ^{° C,} then added to the digester operating at a stirrer while gradually introduce 0.055 kg of triethanolamine. The mass is emulsified, and then pumped into the boiler-condenser cooled to 45-50 ^C. Then 0.3 kg administered alcohol and 0.1 kg of flavoring. After cooling to 30 ° ^C the cream was allowed to stand for 3 hours and fed to the packaging of.

Cream samples with a CO ₂ extract complex biostimulator from chamomile and carrot seeds or from chamomile, carrot seeds and rice waste are all stable, since the introduction of the extract even in a small dose, which has high antimicrobial, bactericidal and antioxidant properties, prevents oxidation and damage to the cream.

 The purpose of this cream and the purpose of its preparation is that the used mixture of emulsifiers, fatty components, preservatives, extracts and the modes of its production perform a specific task - provide lipoid enrichment of the skin of the face and neck. The action of the cream is provided, on the one hand, by the selection of the components that make up the recipe, on the other hand, by their dosage.

The presence of a biologically active substance complex and the addition of carotenoids, tocopherols, vitamin F in combination with an emulsifying base ensures the stability of the cream, high lipoid enrichment of the skin and neck with a simultaneous film-forming effect due to the presence of wax-like substances of rice waste with high levels of CO ₂ extracts N 21 or N 27 biological activity.

 The complex of biologically active substances from extracts of chamomile, carrot seeds and rice waste in combination with other components under the developed conditions for the preparation of the cream provides a high regenerating and water-retaining effect.

 The combination of the selected components in the developed dosage range in the cream formulation contributes to the vitaminization of skin cells, their watering, provides a bactericidal, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effect. The listed properties and qualities of the components of the cream formulation provide a valuable property - lipoid enrichment of the skin of the face and neck. In addition, the effectiveness of the cream is achieved by the modes of preparation of the cream, ensuring the safety of labile components of the extracts.

 Regular application to the skin of the proposed composition of the cream helps smooth wrinkles and rejuvenate the skin, does not cause allergic and irritating effects. The cream is well absorbed and softens the skin, without leaving excessive gloss on the surface, while creating a feeling of comfort and elasticity. All these qualities of the proposed cream formulation are confirmed by the medical report of the scientific and practical association "Cosmetology".

 Thus, the developed formulation will allow you to create a new cream that provides lipoid enrichment of the skin of the face and neck with the optimal combination of biologically active and other components.

 The introduction of the cream will expand the range of products of the perfumery and cosmetics industry, which is in great demand. The recipe for the new cream was developed by the KOMITEKS company and the Krasnodar perfumery and cosmetic factory Souvenir and will be introduced at the Souvenir CPKF.

 (56) Copyright certificate of the USSR N 1510133, cl. A 61 K 7/00, 1989.

Claims (1)

FACE SKIN CREAM containing an emulsifying base, extractives of carrot seeds and rice waste, egg oil, triethanolamine, glycerin, methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid, fragrance and water, characterized in that it additionally contains vegetable oil, L, α-lecithin ethyl alcohol, chamomile extractives as part of a CO ₂ extract of chamomile and carrot seed, and the emulsifying base consists of stearin cosmetic, emulsion waxes, glycerol monostearate and modification th PEL, with the following component ratio, wt. %:
Cosmetic stearin 1 - 5
Emulsion waxes 0.2 - 3.0
Glycerol Monostearate 2 - 8
Modified PEL 0.5 - 3.0
Vegetable oil 5 - 10
Egg oil or L, α-lecithin 0.1 - 0.5
Anhydrous lanolin 0.5 - 3.0
Complex CO ₂ extract of chamomile, carrot seeds or
from chamomile, carrot seeds and rice waste 0.05 - 0.8
Triethanolamine 0.1 - 1.0
Glycerin 2.0 - 8.0
Paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.05 - 0.3
Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.01 - 0.1
Ethyl alcohol 1.0 - 5.0
Fragrance 0.5 - 1.5
Water Else

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