RU2113208C1 - Face cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology. SUBSTANCE: cream contains a complex of biologically active substances: aqueous-alcoholic-glycerine extract of matricary or calendula, CO₂-extract of millet mulch or rice meal, CO₂-extract of grape seeds or glycerophosphoric acid of grape seeds. Extracts in combination with other components activate metabolic processes in skin. EFFECT: antiinflammatory, regenerative and wound-healing action. 5 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to cosmetics and for the production of cream.

 Known formulations of emulsion creams containing vegetable oils, perfume, propellant, emulsifiers, extracts.

 For example, cream by author. St. N 1597192 contains water-alcohol extract of pollen, corn oil, lanolin, glycerin, distilled monoglycerides, stearic acid, high molecular weight alcohols, borax, flower pollen chladone extract, horse chestnut chladone extract, oil pollen oil extract, pollen oil extract, , perfume, propellant and water.

 Cream by author St. N 1346157 contains sea buckthorn chladone extract, yarrow chladone extract, barley seed chladone chladone extract, thyme chladone chladone extract, alcohol, stearic acid, olive oil, glycerin, a low melting fraction of mink fat, a fraction of high molecular weight fatty alcohols, proprietol, lietetanol, trietol, triethanol, water, trilet.

Closest to the claimed cream is “Propolisny” according to TU 6-15-1526-86, containing olive oil, water-alcohol-glycerin extract of propolis, chamomile extract, or chamomile azulene extract, anhydrous lanolin, distilled glycerin, synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols C ₁₆ - C ₂₀ , triethanolamine, stearic acid, vitamin F, fragrance, propellant and water in the following ratio, wt.%:
Water-alcohol-glycerin propolis extract - 2-4
Olive Oil - 5-7
Chamomile CO ₂ Extract - 0.05-00.3
or
Azulene chamomile CO ₂ extract - 0.025-0.15
Anhydrous lanolin - 0.5-2.5
Distilled glycerin - 4-6
Primary higher synthetic alcohols, fatty C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ - 1-2
Triethanolamine - 0.5-1.5
Stearic acid - 2-3
Vitamin F - 1-3
Fragrance - 0.1-1.0
Propellant - 10-12
Water - Up to 100
As a bioactive complex, the cream contains water-alcohol-glycerin propolis extract and chamomile extract, which give the cream anti-inflammatory properties, but do not have high biological activity in relation to water and protein metabolism.

 The present invention solves the problem of creating an emulsion cream of increased activity by enhancing the metabolic processes in the skin (water, protein, fat) with the simultaneous manifestation of anti-inflammatory, regenerating and wound healing effects.

The goal is achieved by the fact that the proposed cream containing lanolin, synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ , vegetable oil, triethanolamine, chamomile extractives, perfume and water, stearic acid or cosmetic stearin, protein hydrolyzate or glycerin, water-water spirtoglitserinovy calendula extract, CO ₂ extract of millet mucheli or CO ₂ extract of rice fasciculi, CO ₂ extract of grape seeds or grape seed gidrofitokontsentrat, succinic acid or malic essence, leofilizirovannoe seed bulls and a preservative or propellant in the following ratio of components, wt.%:
Stearic acid, or stearic acid for stearates, or cosmetic stearin - 1.0-3.0
Lanolin - 0.5-2.0
Synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ - 1.0-3.0
Vegetable oil - 2.0-7.0
Triethanolamine - 0.5-1.2
Protein hydrolyzate or glycerin - 1.0-3.0
Water-alcohol-glycerin extract of chamomile or calendula - 2.0-3.0
CO ₂ extract of millet flour or rice flour - 0.001-0.5
CO ₂ extract of grape seeds or HFC grape seeds - 0.001-0.5
Succinic acid or malic essence - 0.001-0.01
Leophilized bull seed - 0.001-0.1
Propellant - 10.0-15.0
or
Preservative - 0.05-0.5
Fragrance - 0.1-0.5
Drinking water - Up to 100
A certain amount of water is introduced into the fat base of emulsion creams, which leads to an increase in the therapeutic value of the cream by increasing the degree of dispersion of fatty and fat-like substances and their absorption rate into the skin. Water in the emulsion, causing a slight loosening of the stratum corneum, increases permeability and absorption.

 Emulsion creams contain not only fat and water, but they also introduce substances that promote hydration and water retention in the skin, for example, biologically active and pharmaceutical substances, which increases the vital activity of the skin and contributes to its treatment.

Characteristics of biologically active substances (CO ₂ -extracts, water-alcohol-glycerol extracts and GFK).

The CO ₂ extract of millet flour contains: 89.48% unsaturated fatty acids, of which 64.08% is linoleic acid. Unsaponifiable substances make up 9.5-10.5%, pigments (carotenoids) 3.1-3.6%, ergosterol 11.5-12.6%, stigmasterol 9.2-9.7%, milyacin - pentacyclic terpenoid 8 , 5-9.2%. The composition of the vitamins of the extract includes carotene, xanthophyll, tocopherol. The presence of unsaturated fatty acids and a pentacyclic triterpenoid of militian in the composition of a CO ₂ extract from a millet flour is of great importance for medicine, because this compound has an anabolic effect and is a membrane stabilizer. It can replace hormonal drugs with a steroid structure.

The CO ₂ extract of millet flour has therapeutic effects in trophic ulcers, purulent wounds, including diabetes mellitus for long-term healing wounds.

The CO ₂ extract of grape seeds contains 0.19% stearin, 0.15-0.25% tocopherols, 0.002-0.005% carotenoids, and waxes. The composition of fatty acids contains in small amounts of acids from C ₃ to C ₁₄ , of the polyunsaturated fatty acids it contains linoleic (up to one third of the total acid content), linolenic in a small amount.

The CO ₂ extract of grape seeds has antioxidant and hydratant properties.

Rice flour CO ₂ extract contains free fatty acids 11.7%, unsaponifiable fraction 6.1%, saponifiable fraction 73.9%, waxes 0.09-0.12%, tocopherols 0.001-0.004%, rice CO ₂ extract torment can be recommended in cosmetics as a plasticizing and biologically active additive.

 The composition of water-alcohol-glyceric extracts of chamomile and calendula includes ascorbic acid, flavonoids, organic acids, tannins.

 Vitamin C regulates redox processes in the body, accelerates tissue regeneration, promotes wound healing, enhances the effect of vitamin A.

 Flavonoids have a wide range of pharmacological effects.

 Tannins are a group of plant polyphenols. Tannins interact with skin protein - collagen, and structures that are resistant to decay processes are formed. Tannins are used as astringents and anti-inflammatory drugs.

 The biologically active substances of water-alcohol-glycerin extracts of chamomile and calendula exhibit antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, regenerating and antimicrobial properties.

In the proposed formulation as a replacement for the CO ₂ extract of grape seeds, HFC grape seeds obtained by extraction of raw materials with water, followed by mixing the aqueous extract with adsorbent and drying, according to patent N 2015694, can be introduced.

 Water-soluble biologically active substances of HFC grape seeds exhibit astringent and anti-inflammatory properties.

 Characterization of the remaining components of the formulation.

 Stearin is a mixture of fatty acids, mainly stearic acid, with an admixture of palmitic, oxystearic and isooleic acids. Saturated fatty acid is released from a mixture of fatty acids obtained from the breakdown of animal and vegetable fats, marine animal fats, etc.

 Stearin is also extracted from hydrogenated fats, i.e. from liquid or soft fats, turned into a solid state by saturating with hydrogen the liquid acids contained in them and thus turning them into solid stearic and partially palmitic acids.

 In cosmetics, stearin is widely used for the preparation of fatty and non-greasy creams, emulsions, soap and cosmetic preparations, and shaving creams. It acts on the skin in a softening and oxidizing way, in combination with soaps it serves as a good thickening agent for water creams.

 Stearic acid is found in lipids secreted by the sebaceous glands. It has a positive effect on the skin, softens it, penetrates the skin, carrying along useful additives.

 Glycerin is a triatomic alcohol found in all fats of plant and animal origin in the form of glycerides.

 Glycerin is widely used in cosmetics as a quick-emollient. Glycerin inhibits the development of bacteria, it is difficult to freeze, and therefore is widely used as a preservative that prevents drying, fermentation, freezing in stearate and other water creams.

 Lanolin consists of a mixture of fatty acids, wax-like esters of fatty acids, cholesterol, isocholesterol and ceryl alcohol.

 In its purified form, anhydrous lanolin consists of cholesterol and isocholesterol esters of cerotinic and palmitic acids, alcohols (sterols, terpene alcohols, wax alcohols).

 Lanolin - the fatty base of the cream, an emollient component that eliminates peeling of the skin, is quickly absorbed and helps the skin absorb biologically active and other beneficial components of creams, improves skin elasticity and enhances the metabolism of the skin.

 Emulsifiers and emulsifying mixtures are mandatory components of emulsion type cosmetic creams. To a large extent, they determine the quality of creams - their stability, texture, uniformity of structure.

 As an emulsifier in the formulation, triethanolamine is used - tertiary betahydroxylamine with an admixture of secondary, primary and betahydroxylamines and water.

 Protein hydrolysates - products of incomplete breakdown of proteins obtained by acid or alkaline hydrolysis. They contain essential amino acids, sodium, potassium, magnesium and other ions. In the cosmetics industry, keratin hydrolysates and gelatins are used, which differ in the composition of amino acids. Keratin hydrolysates normalize protein metabolism in the skin, increase blood circulation to the skin.

 Gelatin hydrolysates contain glutamic and aspartic acids, tryptophan and other essential amino acids. These hydrolysates help moisturize the skin, regulate protein metabolism. They are introduced into the composition of cosmetic creams for the care of aging skin.

Alcohols synthetic primary higher fatty C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ . The solid mass is white, the alcohol content is not less than 16%, the alcohol content to C ₁₆ not more than 5%, alcohols above C ₂₀ not more than 5%, water not more than 0.2%.

 Used in cosmetic creams as a structure-forming component in a concentration of up to 5%, in combination with anionic additives contribute to the formation of stable emulsions.

 In the proposed formulation, olive oil, or soybean oil, or sunflower oil is used as vegetable oil.

 Olive oil contains up to 83% oleic acid, up to 10% saturated fatty acids, up to 10% linoleic acid.

 The composition of soybean oil includes linoleic acid 51.5-57%, linolenic acid 2-3%.

 In linoleic acid sunflower oil contains 57-71%.

 Unsaturated fatty acids of vegetable oil (vitamin F) enhance the lipolytic and regenerative ability of the epidermis, improve blood and lymph formation, increase the fat content in all layers of the skin.

 In cosmetic production, hormonal substances are introduced as a useful biologically active additive for skin nutrition. In the proposed formulation, hormonal substances are part of the leophilized bull seed.

 Sperm in its composition contains 25% of dry matter, consisting mainly of complex and simple protein (85%), lipids (13.2%) and minerals in the form of salts of phosphoric, hydrochloric, sulfuric acids and salts of organic acids. An important component is also enzymes and hormonal substances.

 With leophilization, almost no destruction of all these complex biochemical complexes occurs.

 In terms of its qualitative composition and quantitative ratios, this product is physiological, it normalizes aging metabolic processes, and supports the vital activity of skin cells.

 Hormones positively affect skin turgor and cell renewal, contribute to maintaining water balance, providing a rejuvenating effect.

 Organic acids that exhibit slightly acidic properties are introduced into many cosmetic products as weak whitening, refreshing, disinfecting components, as well as to adjust the pH.

 Succinic acid - ethane-1,2-dicarboxylic acid is found in plant and animal organisms.

 Malic acid, hydroxy succinic acid is present in plants in L-form, in a free state or in the form of acid salts, which provides an acidic reaction of cell juice.

 Succinic and malic acids are intermediate products of cellular respiration. The addition of succinic or malic acid dramatically increases the rate of oxygen uptake by muscle tissues, enhances the redox functions of the skin.

 The introduced complex of biologically active substances of extracts and GFK in combination with other components of the formulation improves the quality and action of the cream.

 Absorption of a substance into the skin depends largely on the condition of the skin. Through the moistened stratum corneum of the skin, substances penetrate much more easily than through dry skin. With age, the stratum corneum thickens somewhat and its ability to lose moisture is enhanced.

 Waxes of extractive substances of grape seeds, possessing the ability to attract and retain moisture, enhance the action of a protein hydrolyzate that regulates protein metabolism and moisturizes the skin, i.e. help increase the wetting ability of emulsion cream.

The component of the CO ₂ extract of millet flour - pentacyclic triterpenoid - miliacin stabilizes biological membranes with variable permeability, that is, it facilitates the penetration of useful biologically active additives into the skin.

 Milyacin enhances the properties of hormonal substances in the composition of leophilized bull seed, which helps maintain the skin's water balance and affects the functional state of the skin.

The lipid fraction of grape seeds, rice flour and millet flour introduced into the recipe for CO ₂ extracts in combination with the fat base of the cream reduces the skin’s return to water and, penetrating the surface epithelial layer, soaking it, softens and protects it from wrinkles, protects the skin from harmful external influences, dissolves the deposited secrets of the sebaceous and sweat glands, keeping dust and dirt in suspension, not allowing them to touch the skin, helps to remove them and reduce inflammation.

Extractive substances tocopherols of millet flour and grape seeds give antioxidant stability to the entire vitamin complex introduced into the cream with CO ₂ extracts.

 Vitamins and hormones are more easily absorbed into the skin when they are in a persistent emulsion environment. To obtain thin emulsions and stabilize them, emulsifiers are used, the effect of which is to reduce the interfacial, surface tension, to form mechanically strong layers on the surface of the droplets of the dispersed phase, preventing these droplets from sticking together.

 The emulsifying properties of triethanolamine and the ability of synthetic alcohols to form stable emulsions are enhanced in the presence of surfactants (anionic), and in the formulation this surfactant is Na-lauryl sulfate - an adsorbent of HFC.

Stearic acid, lanolin and glycerin determine the emollient properties of the cream and good penetration through the skin barrier of highly unsaturated fatty acids (vitamin F), which are part of vegetable oil and CO ₂ -extracts of rice flour, millet flour and grape seeds and improve metabolic processes, epithelization processes and tissue repair.

 Ascorbic acid in the extractives of water-alcohol-glycerin extracts of chamomile and calendula in combination with succinic acid enhances the redox functions of the skin.

 The essential amino acids that make up the protein hydrolyzate and the amino acids in the proteins of the leophilized bull seed normalize withering metabolic processes and support the vital activity of skin cells.

 Justification of the boundary values of the concentration of the components of the formulation.

The effect of dosages of CO ₂ -extract of millet flour and CO ₂ -extract of rice flour, CO ₂ -extract of grape seeds or GFK of grape seeds, protein hydrolyzate and vegetable oil on cream quality indicators was studied using mathematical planning according to the scheme of orthogonal Latin rectangles for four factors on four levels.

 Based on the matrix, taking into account the selected levels of concentration of factors (type of extract, protein hydrolyzate, vegetable oil), an experimental plan is drawn up. Indicators of effectiveness and evaluation of the quality of the cream were: the content of vitamin F, a hydrogen indicator, an indicator of inhibition of inflammation.

Levels (concentration) for 1 option:
Factor A - Vegetable oil: 1.0-3.0-5.0-8.0;
factor B - CO ₂ extract of millet flour: 0.0005-0.001-0.4-0.6;
factor C - CO ₂ -extract of grape seeds: 0.0005-0.001-0.4-0.6;
Factor D - Protein Hydrolyzate: 0.5-1-3-4.

 An experimental plan was drawn up for the selected levels of the studied factors (Table 1).

 The concentrations of the remaining components were fixed at one (averaged) level.

 The data obtained are mathematically processed in order to determine the effects of the levels of each factor for all indicators (table. 2).

 In the table. 3 shows the conditions for obtaining optimal values of the quality indicators of the developed formulation.

As a result of the analysis of all the dependencies in the relationship, the limiting dosages of all components of the formulation were determined: stearic acid, or stearic acid for stearates, or cosmetic stearin 1.0-3.0; lanolin 0.5-2.0; primary synthetic higher fatty alcohols C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ 1,0-3,0; vegetable oil 2.0-7.0; triethanolamine 0.5-2.0; protein hydrolyzate or glycerol 1.0-3.0; water-alcohol-glycerin extract of chamomile or calendula 2.0-3.0; CO ₂ extract of millet flour or CO ₂ extract of rice flour 0,001-0,5; CO ₂ -extraction of grape seeds or HFC grape seeds 0,001-0,5; succinic acid or malic essence 0.001-0.1; leophilized bull seed 0.001-0.1; propellant 10.0-15.0 or preservative 0.05; perfume 0.1-0.5; water up to 100%.

 The method of preparation of emulsion cream.

Preparation of the emulsion cream product is carried out in a reactor with a capacity of 5 m ³ , which has a heating jacket and a stirrer.

The calculated amount of olive oil (or soybean, or sunflower oil), protein hydrolyzate (or distilled glycerin), synthetic alcohols of higher primary fat fractions C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ , stearic acid and lanolin are loaded into the reactor. The mixer is turned on, heating, the temperature in the reactor is brought to 80-95 ^o C. The contents of the reactor are heated until the solid components are completely melted for 50-60 minutes.

The estimated amount of drinking water (except for the amount of water intended for dissolving leophilized bull seed and succinic acid) with a temperature of 80-85 ^o C and triethanolamine are loaded into a reactor with molten fats. Emulsification is carried out at a temperature of 80-85 ^o C for 25-30 minutes After that include cooling with water to a temperature of 40-45 ^o C.

 In a separate container (in the required amount of water), leophilized bull seed and succinic acid are dissolved. Dissolution should be carried out in advance - 1-2 hours before feeding it to the reactor.

At a temperature of 40-45 ^o C, water-alcohol-glyceric extract of chamomile (or calendula), CO ₂ -extraction of millet flour (or CO ₂ -extraction of rice flour), CO ₂ -extraction of grape seeds or GFK of grape seeds, a solution of leophilized seed are loaded into the reactor bulls and succinic acid, fragrance according to the recipe.

Stirring the emulsion, continue to cool another 20-30 minutes to a temperature of 28-30 ^o C and served on the packaging.

 Examples of the preparation of the developed emulsion cream and cream prototype are given in table. 4, 5.

 An analysis of various combinations of dosages of the extracts and components of the formulation used makes it possible to identify their effect on the quality and action of the cream.

 Comparing the obtained indicators of quality and action of the developed cream and the cream of the prototype, we can note an increase in the inhibition of inflammation and the content of vitamin F, which is involved in the process of absorption of fats and fat metabolism of the skin.

 The introduced biologically active substances of the extracts affect the pH of the cream, bringing it closer to the optimal interval at which the cream will not have a negative effect on the skin, like very acidic or too alkaline creams, and it is also easier to achieve emulsion stability.

 The following is an example of the preparation of emulsion cream per 10 kg of the finished product.

Example 1. In the reactor load 0.2 kg of vegetable oil, 0.1 kg of protein hydrolyzate, 0.1 kg of alcohols of synthetic primary higher fat fractions C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ , 0.1 kg of stearic acid and 0.05 kg of lanolin. The mixer is turned on, heating, the temperature in the reactor is brought to 80-85 ^o C. The contents of the reactor are heated until the solid components are completely melted for 50-60 minutes.

8.189 kg of drinking water with a temperature of 80-85 ^o C and 0.05 kg of triethanolamine are loaded into the reactor with molten fats. Emulsification is carried out at a temperature of 80-85 ^o C for 25-30 minutes After that include cooling with water to a temperature of 40-45 ^o C.

 In a separate container, in the required amount of water, 0.0001 kg of leophilized bull seed and 0.0001 kg of succinic acid are dissolved.

At a temperature of 40-45 ^o C in the reactor load 0.2 kg of water-alcohol-glycerol extract of chamomile, 0.0001 kg of CO ₂ -extract of millet flour, 0.0001 kg of CO ₂ -extract of grape seeds, a solution of leophilized bull seed and succinic acid, 0.01 kg perfumes.

Stirring the emulsion, continue to cool for another 20-30 minutes to a temperature of 25-30 ^o C and served on the packaging.

Thus, the combination of components introduced in combination with CO ₂ -extracts, HFK and water-alcohol-glycerin extracts provides the cream with anti-inflammatory, wound healing and regenerating effects.

 The skin under the influence of the cream becomes soft, elastic, its water-holding properties are improved.

 The use of the cream stimulates metabolic processes in the epithelium of the skin, increases the tone of skin cells.

Claims (1)

Face cream containing lanolin, synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols C _{1 6} - C _{2 0} , vegetable oil, triethanolamine, plant extractives, fragrance and water, characterized in that it additionally contains stearic acid or cosmetic stearin, protein hydrolyzate or glycerin, water-spirtoglitserinovy chamomile extract and calendula, CO ₂ extract of millet mucheli or CO ₂ extract of rice fasciculi, CO ₂ extract of grape seeds or grape seed gidrofitokontsentrat, succinic acid or malic essences w, lyophilized semen of bulls, a preservative or the propellant in the following ratio, wt.%:
Cosmetic stearic acid or cosmetic stearin - 1.0 - 3.0
Lanolin - 0.2 - 5.0
Synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols C _{1 6} - C _{2 0} - 1.0 - 3.0
Vegetable oil - 2.0 - 7.0
Triethanolamine - 0.5 - 1.2
Protein hydrolyzate or glycerin - 1.0 - 3.0
Water-alcohol-glycerin extract of chamomile or calendula - 2.0 -3.0
CO ₂ extract of millet flour or rice flour - 0.001 - 0.5
Grape seed CO ₂ extract or grape seed hydrophytoconcentrate - 0.001 - 0.5
Succinic acid or malic essence - 0.001 - 0.1
Lyophilized bull seed - 0.001 - 0.1
Propellant - 10.0 - 15.0
Or
Preservative - 0.05
Fragrance - 0.1 - 0.5
Water - Up to 100.0d

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