RU2259814C2 - Skin cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetic industry, in particular production of face and body skin cream.

SUBSTANCE: Claimed cream contains plant-origin oil, water, surfactant, glycerol, vitamin E, emulsifier composition based on natural phospholipids, butylhydroxytoluene as antioxidant, plant-origin bioactive compounds, odorant and additionally it contains natural polysaccharide as thickener, organosilicon, EDTA as chelating agent, and paraben mixture as conserving agent in specific ratio. Cream of present invention can protect skin from moisture losses and hazard environmental action.

EFFECT: cream with improved regenerating, wound-cicatrizing and antiallergic properties.

15 cl

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and can be used in the manufacture of face and body cream, which, by moisturizing the skin, activating the mechanisms of regeneration and removing inflammatory reactions, slows down skin aging.

Currently, a wide variety of skin creams with different recipes are known. All components of creams can be divided into the following main groups:

- basic (oil / water, higher fatty alcohols, esters of higher fatty acids, wax);

- special additives (perfumes, preservatives, antioxidants, etc.);

- biologically active substances (BAS), which include: antioxidants that reduce the destructive effect of free radicals on the skin and “refresh” it, immunomodulators that trigger a non-specific reaction of the skin’s immune system, regulators of cellular metabolism of skin cells (in particular, echinacea extract, glucosaminoglycans) ;

- surfactants that make it possible to obtain a stable emulsion, increase the permeability of the skin barrier and serve as a "transport" for biologically active substances.

The properties of the cream are determined by a combination of various components and their quantitative composition.

Cream for facial skin care, in which all the main components for this type of creams are used, are described in ed. testimonial. USSR No. 806036 from 02.23.1981. The cream contains

- olive oil and cocoa butter,

- emulsion waxes,

- ethyl alcohol and hydrogenated alcohols of sperm whale fat,

- methyl and propyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid,

- lanolin and glycerin,

- perfumes

- water

- carbon dioxide sea buckthorn extract.

The cream is excessively saturated with fatty and structural components. The presence of lanolin can be a source of allergic reactions. In addition, the cream contains low biological active substances (sea buckthorn extract only), which reduces the regenerating effect of the cream on the skin.

Cream for face skin according to the patent of the Russian Federation No. 2113208 of 08/08/95, IPC: A 61 K, 7 / 00.7 / 48, in addition to the main components similar to the previous one, supplemented with a complex of biologically active substances containing water-alcohol-glycerin chamomile extract or calendula, CO ₂ - extract of millet flour or rice flour, CO ₂ - extract of grape seeds or GFC grape seeds. These extracts made it possible to activate metabolic processes in the skin, as well as strengthen anti-inflammatory, regenerating and wound healing properties.

However, the presence of alcohol extract in this cream worsens its quality indicators, since alcohol dries the skin.

Also known is a skin cream according to the patent of the Russian Federation No. 2153320 dated July 13, 1999, IPC: A 61 K, 7/00. The cream contains already known ingredients, such as

- olive oil,

- lanolin,

- glycerin,

- emulsion waxes,

- methyl and propyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid,

- perfumes and water.

In addition to them, new components were introduced into the cream:

- antioxidants: superoxide dismutase, carnosine, tocopherol acetate, ascorbyl palmitate and butyl hydroxy toluene;

- wheat germ oil - an antioxidant with a moisturizing effect,

- structure-forming elements: diethylene glycol stearate, isopropyl myristate, high molecular weight alcohols C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ hydrogenated.

However, this cream also has disadvantages. The presence of lanolin can lead to an allergic reaction, a high percentage (more than 2%) of glycerol reduces the moisturizing effect of the cream, and the amount of ascorbyl palmitate, carnosine and superoxide dismutase included in the cream is so small that it can have no effect on the skin. Some additives, such as wheat germ oil, are currently being replaced by others with improved properties, such as wheat protein extract.

The closest solution to the proposed can be considered a skin cream according to the patent of the Russian Federation No. 2200001 of 04/10/2001, MKI: A 61 K, 7/48. Cream contains

avocado oil 2-10 hypocrite 0.5-2.0 germal plus 0.1-0.5 tocopherol acetate 0.01-0.5 butylhydroxytoluene 0.01-0.1 emulsifying composition based on natural phospholipids 1-4 surfactants 0.1-4 biologically active substances 0.1-5 perfume 0.05-0.5 water the rest is up to 100%

This cream is an effective cosmetic product with a good regenerating and healing effect. However, synthetic surfactants predominate in its composition, which can be the cause of allergic reactions in people with sensitive skin.

The objective of the proposed solution is to improve the quality of the cream by increasing the effectiveness of its effect on the skin and reducing allergic effects.

This problem was solved by adjusting the quantitative composition of already known components (glycerin, vegetable oil, emulsifying composition based on natural phospholipids, vitamin E, surfactants and biologically active substances), as well as by eliminating individual components (such as germal, synthetic surfactants) and introducing new (e.g. natural polysaccharide, organosilicon compounds, paraben mixture). In addition, the proposed cream uses distilled water and an additional component for water treatment EDTA - ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid.

The proposed cream contains these components in the following ratio, wt.%:

vegetable oil 1-12 glycerol 0.1-2 surfactants 0-6 paraben mixture 0.1-1 butylhydroxytoluene antioxidant 0.01-1.0 emulsifying composition based natural phospholipids 0.5-4 natural polysaccharide (Ami-gel) 0.1-1.5 vitamin e 0.1-3 biologically active substances plant origin 0.1-5 organosilicon compounds 0-10 ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) 0.1-1 perfume 0-2 distilled water up to 100%

The exclusion from the proposed cream of synthetic components has improved the anti-allergic parameters of the product. The combination of components included in the cream in the proposed proportion provided a more active effect on the skin, increasing the moisturizing effect, reducing skin aging, improving the skin microrelief and its appearance.

The cream uses the latest advances in the field of surface-active substances (SAS), which are used as a “transport” for biologically active substances (BAS) when penetrating the skin through the epidermal barrier. These include compounds based on natural phospholipids. The phospholipid-based lamellar system is related to the skin, since phospholipids are the main component of cell membranes. At the same time, phospholipids are sources of polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic and linolenic, which are necessary to maintain the integrity of the epidermal skin barrier. Phospholipid cream forms a thin film on the skin surface in which water molecules and biologically active substances are retained. Phospholipids do not cause allergies and reduce irritation caused by other surfactants (see the article “Lipid layers in cosmetic emulsions” in the journal “Cosmetics & Medicine” No. 4 of 1999, p. 35).

The proposed cream used a phospholipid-based emulsifier manufactured by LUCAS MEYER.

In combination with other substances that make up the cream, such as higher fatty alcohols and long chain fatty acids, phospholipids can form structured creams, i.e. liquid crystal structures. When considering the proposed cream under an electron microscope, the ordered structure of the lamellar layers was clearly visible.

Thus, phospholipids form a gel network. However, a gel network consisting of only these components is unstable. In order to stabilize it, a natural polysaccharide is added, which moisturizes the skin and provides a lifting effect.

The natural polysaccharide (Ami-gel) introduced into the formulation has a structure-forming effect and is able to effectively moisturize the skin. In addition, this polysaccharide has a tightening effect on the skin, that is, the lifting effect. Therefore, a cream with the indicated polysaccharide has a rejuvenating effect on the skin and refers to anti-age cosmetics.

As biologically active substances (BAS), delivered to the deeper layers of the skin using effective "transport" of surfactants based on phospholipids, the proposed cream includes components of only plant origin.

Vegetable oils are used to moisturize and soften the skin, in addition, some of them, containing unsaturated fatty acids, have the ability to penetrate deep into the skin, interfering with the metabolism of biologically active substances, which enhances the regenerating effect of the cream, contributes to a good restoration of the normal structure of the epidermis and improves moisture holding properties of the skin. Sesame oil (for dry, normal, sensitive and damaged skin), shea butter and palm oil (anti-wrinkle), almond oil (has a progesterone effect), coconut oil (for a calming effect), corn oil can be selected as vegetable oils and hazelnut oil (for aging skin as a regenerating agent). The most effective use of a mixture of these oils.

As a preservative, the proposed cream contains a mixture of parabens, which are widely used in the food and pharmaceutical industries. A mixture of parabens includes phenoxyethanol, methyl, ethyl, butyl, propyl, isobutyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid.

The proposed cream includes organosilicon compounds (silicones), which have the properties of emollients. Dimethicone was used as an organosilicon compound (the name is according to INCI nomenclature, or otherwise DC200-Dow Corning, another name is polydimethylsiloxane). At the same time, they not only soften the skin, but also have a protective effect (for example, protect the skin from the action of water, reduce the irritating effect of some cosmetic ingredients). While some organic emollients have occlusive properties and can provoke the formation of acne, silicones and silicone polymers are non-comedogenic. In skin care products, silicone components give the skin a silky and soft feel. The silicones based on cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations have a protective effect and optimize the delivery of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin. Silicones themselves are safe, and their introduction into the formulation in many cases reduces the negative effects of other cosmetic ingredients (see "Cosmetics and Medicine" No. 6, pp. 21-30 1998), which allow the introduction of heat-sensitive additives . In addition, silicones are water resistant, which increases the protective properties of the cream, softens the skin and does not leave a feeling of greasy.

There are several options for the cream, which differ in the composition of natural phytoextrogens, which allows you to choose a cream individually with the most effective effect on a specific skin type.

Example 1

Coconut oil 4 corn oil 2 hazelnut oil 1 glycerol 0.5 surfactants 6 paraben mixture 0.3 butylhydroxytoluene antioxidant 0.05 emulsifying composition based natural phospholipids 4 Homspolysaccharide (Ami-gel) 0.1 vitamin e 2 microencapsulated complex magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and natural phospholipids 2 dimethicone 3 ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) 0.1 perfume 0.25 distilled water up to 100%

Example 2

Palm oil 2 coconut oil 2 sesame oil 1 glycerol 1,2 surfactants 3 paraback mix 0.3 butylhydroxytoluene antioxidant 0.05 emulsifying composition based natural phospholipids 4 Homspolysaccharide (Ami-gel) 0.05 vitamin e 0.5 mamaku extract 3 dimethicone 3 ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) 0.1 perfume 0.25 distilled water up to 100%

The following ingredients are used in the proposed options: lecithin (Jso-cell life, Isocell care), a complex of phospholipids and microencapsulated extract of green tea and vitamins C and E (Isocell OFT), a complex of phospholipids, caffeine and willow bark extract Isocell slim), a complex of phospholipids and microcopulated magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (Isocell MAP), a complex of soy phospholipids and lemon peel extract (Isocell citrus), tri-methyl glycine (bitain).

It is proposed to use a biologically active additive in the form of an energy antiradical complex (Isocell OFT) based on flavone oligomers of green tea, microencapsulated in biomimetic membranes made from natural phospholipids and vitamins E and C. The synergistic effect of such a mixture increases the antiradical activity of creams containing such a component, which slows down aging processes, stabilizes collagen fibers, prevents the loss of skin elasticity.

The complex of caffeine phospholipids and willow bark extract (Isocell slim) provides smoothness, purity and hydration of the skin, gives a pleasant feeling of silky skin. The complex does not have a whitening effect. After 1 days of using the cream, the skin profile is tightened by 8%, moisturizing efficiency is increased by 27% (according to Lucas Meyer)

As a new unique dietary supplement, it is proposed to use Mamaku tree extract (New Zealand). Due to the fact that the extract was made without the use of solvents, a unique composition was obtained from polysaccharides, flavonoids, triterpenes and minerals with significant stimulating properties in preventing skin aging. Mamaku tree extract stimulates skin cell division and increases by 48% the number of dividing dermal cells by 48%. These new cells migrate from the dermis to the stratum corneum (Stratum Corneum) and renew the epidermis. Mamaku tree extract stimulates the activity of fibroplasts and accelerates the synthesis of the following fibers:

- proteoglycans (I) by 21%;

- proteoglycans (II) by 26%;

- glucosaminoglycans by 14%.

Thus, the architecture of the extracellular matrix is strengthened, thereby strengthening the dermis (according to Lucas Meyer).

The next active ingredient is the use of collagen, a stimulating complex based on microencapsulated magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (Isocell MAP), the most stable form of vitamin C and natural phospholipids. Magnesium ascorbylphosphate is used as a multifunctional component - a whitening agent + antioxidant + stimulator of collagen synthesis. The micro-encapsulated form of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate makes it possible to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. As a biologically active substance, it is proposed to use the natural amino acid tri-methyl glycine, a derivative of glycine. Tri-methyl glycine (TMH) is a key factor in maintaining the viability of the metabolic activity of cells exposed to stressful environmental conditions. Tri-methyl glycine is a cellular hydroregulator. It establishes a dynamic balance of water inside and outside the cell: it easily holds water and with the same ease gives it to the surrounding matrix. These changes occur due to a drop in temperature or osmotic shock. This ingredient protects against thermal stress, has cryoprotection. Tri-methyl glycine allows the cell to adapt to a stressful situation, stabilizing the structure of proteins (enzymes) and biomembranes. TMG also helps to restore enzyme activity after thermal shock. TMG protects biological membranes from stress caused by frost, which increases extracellular pressure. It helps to avoid breaking them, giving them greater elasticity. Thus, the cell retains its integrity and active metabolism. TMG protects the skin from the irritating effects of certain surfactants (e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate) and reduces symptoms such as irritation, redness, dry skin by 40%.

The cream is prepared as follows.

Phase A. Hydrophilic raw materials (components that dissolve in water: glycerin, EDTA) are loaded into water heated to a temperature of 70-75 ° C. The mixture is stirred until the components are dissolved and a homogeneous mass is obtained.

Phase B. Hydrophobic raw materials (fatty components) are mixed. The mixture is heated to a temperature of 70-75 ° C with slow stirring until completely dissolved and obtain a homogeneous mass.

Phase C. The polysaccharide is added to the remaining amount of water, heated to a temperature of 50 ° C and stirred until a transparent gel is formed using high-speed equipment up to 1500 rpm.

Then the components of phase A and phase B are mixed, slowly mixed until a stable and liquid dispersion is obtained. The resulting mass is homogenized using high-speed rotor-stator technology at a speed of at least 3000 rpm. As such a mixer, you can use the installation Ultra turrax, Silverson, rotary pulsation apparatus (RPA).

Then the emulsion is cooled to a temperature of 50 ° C and phase C is added with slow stirring.

At a temperature of 30-35 ° C, fragrance, thermostable biologically active substances and preservatives are added. The resulting mixture is mixed in a rotary pulsation apparatus at a rotor speed of 400-800 rpm.

This technology is proposed instead of a complex technology using ultrasonic dispersion, proposed in RF patent No. 2200001 of 04/10/2001, MKI: A 61 K 7/48. The use of ultrasound involves the use of special equipment of the type through passage, which is difficult to manufacture and operate in an industrial environment. This is non-standard equipment, which is manufactured by individual orders.

As a result of the proposed technology using a rotor-stator, a liquid crystal cream structure (FSA) is formed. Due to the proposed composition of the components, it was possible to obtain a new type of emulsion in which lipids are organized into extended lipid layers, similar in structure to the biological membranes of the epidermis. Electronic micrographs of the creams obtained confirm the presence of FSW.

The proposed cream belongs to a new generation of cosmetic products, in which an effective delivery of active substances without breaking the skin barrier is applied. Such a cream on the surface of the skin forms a film that serves as a reservoir for moisture and biologically active substances, protects the skin from loss of water and protects from sunlight and environmental influences.

In addition to the composition, the technology of its manufacture contributes to increasing the effectiveness of the cream.

An important advantage of the cream is the use of components of plant origin and a high concentration of biologically active substances, which allows you to increase the regenerating, wound healing and anti-allergic effects of the cosmetic. The above biologically active substances in such a system can improve the regenerating, moisturizing, protective functions of the skin in relation to adverse environmental factors (UV radiation, cold, etc.).

Claims (15)

1. Skin cream containing vegetable oil, water, surfactant, glycerin, vitamin E, emulsifying composition based on natural phospholipids, antioxidant butylhydroxytoluene, biologically active substances of plant origin, preservative, perfume, characterized in that it additionally contains a thickener - natural polysaccharide, organosilicon compound, complexing agent - ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and a mixture of parabens is used as a preservative in the following quantitative content consumption of components, wt%: Vegetable oil 1.0-12.0 Glycerol 0.1-2.0 Preservative - a mixture of parabens 0.1-1.0 Surfactants 0.1-6.0 Antioxidant - Butyl Hydroxytoluene 0.01-1.0 Emulsifying composition based natural phospholipids 0.5-4.0 Thickener - Natural Polysaccharide 0.1-1.5 Biologically active substances plant origin 0.1-5.0 Vitamin E 0.1-3.0 Organosilicon compound 0.1-10.0 Complexing agent EDTA 0.1-1.0 Perfume 0 - 2.0 Distilled water Up to 100 2. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that a complex of phospholipids and microencapsulated vitamin C is used as a biologically active substance. 3. The skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that the essence of the New Zealand tree Mamaku is used as a biologically active substance. 4. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that a complex of phospholipids and a microencapsulated extract of green tea, vitamins C and E are used as a biologically active substance. 5. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that a complex of phospholipids, caffeine and willow bark extract is used as a biologically active substance. 6. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that lecithin is used as a biologically active substance. 7. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that as a biologically active substance a complex of soybean phospholipids and lemon peel extract is used. 8. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that trimethyl glycine is used as a biologically active substance. 9. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that sesame oil is used as a vegetable oil. 10. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that shea butter is used as vegetable oil. 11. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that almond oil is used as a vegetable oil. 12. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that coconut oil is used as a vegetable oil. 13. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that palm oil is used as a vegetable oil. 14. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that corn oil is used as a vegetable oil. 15. Skin cream according to claim 1, characterized in that as a vegetable oil use hazelnut oil.