RU2236842C1 - "diamant" cream for eyelids - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics.

SUBSTANCE: the suggested cream for eyelids contains structure-forming emulsifiers, PEG-20 stearate, cetyl alcohol or high-molecular synthetic alcohols C₁₆-C₁₈ or synthetic primary alcohols of fatty fractions C₁₆-C₂₀, gelling agents, moisturizing additives, butyric phase, BAA, conservant, perfumery composition and water; additionally, it contains film-forming components and neutralizing agents. Due to applying balanced combination of biologically active additives: squalane, extracts of cornflower and camomile flowers, peach extract (fruit), hydrolyzed soybean protein, plankton extract the suggested "Diamant" cream restores energetic balance of cutaneous cells, removes the network of small wrinkles and strengthens intercellular bonds, removes intumescences, decreases dark circles under patient's eyes and prevents their appearance. In case of regular application one should establish stable clinical effect: simplified observed teeth of wrinkles on an average: Rt av. By 9.5%, R max av. By 7.6%, R z-d av. By 11.3%.

EFFECT: higher efficiency.

1 cl, 3 tbl

Description

The invention relates to medicine, namely to cosmetics intended for skin care of the eyelids.

Among the care products for sensitive skin of the eyelids are known:

cream for the eyes “Divo”, JSC “SADKO”, Russia [1], which contains demineralized water, soybean oil, glycerin, glycerol monostearate, cocoa butter, ethoxylated alcohols, germaben II, PEG stearate, currant seed oil, hydroxyethyl cellulose, wheat germ oil, higher fatty alcohols, flavor;

- April liposome eye cream - lux with active ingredients: liposomes with vitamins A, E, cornflower extracts, parsley;

- cream gel around the eyes “Silver dew”, which includes demineralized water, glycerin, sorbitol, lecithin, tocopherol acetate, poloxamer 188, cyclomethicone, carbomer, triethanolamine, propylene glycol, EDTA, silver ions, diazolidinyl urea azin, azinazolonodiolazinazole, perfume.

The closest to the claimed cream according to the composition of the components is the cream for the eyes “Divo”, JSC “SADKO”, Russia, selected as a prototype.

The prototype cream “Divo” contains an oil phase formed by biologically active additives - soybean oil, cocoa butter, currant seed oil, wheat germ oil, structure-forming emulsifiers - glycerol monostearate, ethoxylated alcohols, higher fatty alcohols, PEG stearate, gelling agent - hydroxyethyl cellulose, moisturizing additive - glycerin, preservative - hermaben II, flavoring and demineralized water.

The task of the inventors was to create a highly effective cream that smoothes the network of fine wrinkles around the eyes.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the inventive eye cream containing structure-forming emulsifiers is a mixture of PEG-100 stearate and glycerol monostearate in a ratio of 1: 1, PEG-20 stearate, cetyl alcohol, or high molecular weight synthetic alcohols C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ , or alcohols synthetic primary fat fractions C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ , gelling agents, moisturizing additives - distilled or propylene glycol glycerin, oil phase, biologically active additives, preservative - hermaben II, perfume composition and water, characterized in that it additionally contains it contains film-forming components - a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicanol in a 1: 1 ratio, neutralizing agents - triethanolamine, or sodium hydroxide, or technical sodium hydroxide, additionally contains caprylic / capric triglyceride as a structure-forming emulsifier, contains isopropylpropalate as an oil phase, gelling agents - carbomers or carbopol, as biologically active additives it contains squalane, blue cornflower extract water-alcohol, or extra CT flowers blue cornflower water-alcohol-glycerin, or blue cornflower extract in propylene glycol, chamomile flower extract water-alcohol, or chamomile flower extract water-alcohol-glycerin, or chamomile flower extract in propylene glycol, peach extract (fruit) water-alcohol peach extract (fruits) water-alcohol-glycerol, or peach extract (fruits) in propylene glycol, hydrolyzed soy protein, plankton extract, additionally contains esters - methyl and propyl paraoxes as preservatives benzoic acid or Cato CG, or bronitrol or bronopol, at the following content of components, wt.%:

A mixture of PEG-100 stearate and

glycerol monostearate

in the ratio 1: 1 1.00-5.00

PEG-20 stearate 0.50-3.00

Caprylic / Capric

triglyceride 1.00-4.00

Isopropyl palmitate or

isopropyl myristate 1.00-6.00

Mixture of cyclopentasiloxane

and dimethicanol in a ratio of 1: 1 2,00-8,00

Squalane 0.50-3.00

Distilled glycerin

or propylene glycol 0.50-5.00

Cetyl alcohol

or high molecular weight alcohols

synthetic C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ , or

fatty alcohols

fractions C ₁₈ -C ₂₀ 0.50-4.00

Carbomer or carbopol 0.01-2.00

Triethanolamine, or Sodium

hydroxide or sodium hydroxide

technical 0.01-2.00

Cornflower Blue Flower Extract

water-alcohol, or extract

flowers cornflower blue

water-alcohol glycerin,

or cornflower flower extract

blue in propylene glycol 0.20-2.00

Chamomile flower extract

water-alcohol or flower extract

chamomile water-alcohol-glycerin

or chamomile flower extract

in propylene glycol 0.20-2.00

Peach extract (fruits) water-alcohol

or peach extract (fruits)

water-alcohol glycerin,

or peach extract (fruits)

in propylene glycol 0.20-2.00

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein 0.10-1.00

Plankton Extract 0.10-1.00

Methyl Paraoxybenzoic Ether

acid, or CATON CG, or Hermaben II 0.01-1.00

Propyl paraoxybenzoic ether

acid, or CATON CG, or Hermaben II 0.01-1.00

Bronitrol or Bronopol 0.01-0.50

Perfume Composition Up to 0.30

Drinking water Up to 100

The cream compositions for several examples are shown in table 1.

Description of the main raw materials used in the inventive cream for the eyes "Diamond".

The oily phase is formed by isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate.

Structure-forming emulsifiers are selected from the group consisting of a mixture of PEG-100 stearate and glycerol monostearate in a 1: 1 ratio, PEG-20 stearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetyl alcohol, or high molecular weight synthetic alcohols C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ (imported), or alcohols synthetic primary fatty fractions of C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ .

Cetyl alcohol is a trademark of Lorol C 16 (Cognis Deutschland GmbH, Germany) used in creamy oil / water emulsions.

Film-forming components - a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicanol (silicones) in a ratio of 1: 1 helps to hold moisturizers on the skin of the eyelids, and increase the duration of the action of the cosmetic. Using them as part of Eye Cream “Diamond” gives the skin a feeling of smoothness and velvety. A mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicanol acts as a softening, moisturizing agent, and also provides protection as a water-repellent barrier. Silicones make the formula light. An oil-in-water cream provides a light, non-greasy feel and is very easy to flow thanks to the use of volatile silicones.

Gelling agents are selected from the group consisting of carbomers, or carbopol of brand 940, or carbopol of brand ETD 2001.

Distilled glycerol PK-94 or propylene glycol are used as moisturizing additives.

Dietary supplements are selected from the group consisting of squalane, cornflower blue water-alcohol flower extract, or cornflower blue water-alcohol-glycerin flower extract, or cornflower blue flower extract in propylene glycol, water-alcohol chamomile flower extract, or water camomile flower extract - alcohol-glycerin or extract from chamomile flowers in propylene glycol, peach extract (fruits) water-alcohol, or peach extract (fruits) water-alcohol-glycerin, or peach extract (fruits) in prop glycol, hydrolyzed soy protein extract of plankton.

Squalane - C ₃₀ H ₆₂ , perhydrosqualene or 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosan.

Squalane is used in cosmetics, which is a stable form of squalene, capable of oxidation due to high unsaturation.

Squalene is a triterpene with a high degree of unsaturation (C ₃₀ H ₅₀ ). Properties: emollient, antioxidant, binds oxygen, penetrates well into the skin, can serve as a carrier of active components, is easily distributed on the surface.

The surface of human skin is covered with a lipid film, arising from mixing the secretion of the sebaceous glands with the lipids produced by keratinocytes. The composition of this surface film includes triglycerides (60%) and the products of their hydrolysis (diglycerides, monoglycerides and free fatty acids) arising from the lipolytic activity of resident microflora, wax esters (24-26%), cholesterol and its esters (2.5 -3.0%), as well as squalene (11.5-15.0%) -polyunsaturated triterpen (spinacene; 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyl-2,6,10,14,18, 22-tetracosasexaen) is an acyclic polyunsaturated liquid hydrocarbon of the composition C ₃₀ H ₅₀ .

The name squalene comes from the Latin Squalus - a shark whose liver is rich in this compound. In addition to shark liver, squalene is found in significant quantities in olive, palm, amaranth oils, as well as in oils from wheat germ and rice bran.

Squalene is a triterpene belonging to a large group of isoprenoids, which include biologically important molecules such as β-carotene, ubiquinone, tocopherol.

Squalene is an antioxidant that takes on the blow of radicals that occur constantly on the surface of the skin, or an antenna that receives signals from the environment and informs the body about it, or just a component of skin protection from resident microflora.

Squalene is not only synthesized in the body, but also absorbed from food and transported using very low density lipoproteins throughout the body into various tissues. The highest concentration of squalene is found in the skin, significant amounts accumulate in the liver and adipose tissue [2].

Extract of blue cornflower water-alcohol flowers, or extract of blue cornflower flowers water-alcohol-glycerin, or extract of blue cornflower flowers in propylene glycol (Flores Cyani).

The flowers contain flavone glycoside centaurein, blue anthocyanin glycoside cyanine, essential oil, bitter, tannins, saponins, mineral salts and other substances.

In medical practice, cornflower flowers are used in the form of infusion and extracts for nephritis, nephrosonephritis, cystitis, urethritis as a diuretic and in diseases of the liver and biliary tract as a choleretic [3].

The diuretic effect of cornflower is used in the cream to relieve puffiness and dark circles under the eyes.

Chamomile extract [4].

The extract of chamomile flowers is water-alcohol, or the extract from chamomile flowers is water-alcohol-glycerol or the extract from chamomile flowers in propylene glycol (for the composition, see Table 2).

Peach extract (fruits) water-alcohol, or peach extract (fruits) water-alcohol-glyceric, or peach extract (fruits) in propylene glycol.

Peach fruits contain up to 15% sugars, malic, tartaric, citric, quinic and chlorogenic acids, 12-20% of ascorbic acid, 0.62% of vitamin A, carotenoids, lycopene, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin and the essential oil on which the aromatic smell of fruits depends [5].

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (Croda) is used in creams for the skin around the eyes and for the neck as a moisturizing and emollient agent. Hydrolyzed soy protein refers to proteins of plant origin, which, penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin, make up for the deficiency of their native proteins (this occurs during skin aging), therefore, enhance the restoration of moisture balance, giving the skin an extraordinary softness and silkiness.

Plankton extract (SEPORGA.S GP4G) is a marine active ingredient obtained by the French company SEPORGA from a biological pathway from a specific zooplankton - Artemia salina.

The product is a colorless or slightly yellow odorless mobile fluid.

Plankton extract consists of phosphorylated nucleotides, the main component of which is diguanosine tetraphosphate, a high-energy compound.

Diguanosine tetraphosphate

Plankton extract stimulates metabolism, for example, awakens inactive aging cells; contains the prototype GTP, which is a G-protein activator, i.e. activates molecular metabolism. Plankton extract is also a source of guanine, guanosine, phosphorus, simple elements for the structure of skin cells.

It is used in cosmetics to restore aging skin, improve complexion, tone skin cells, and cleanse free radicals.

Plankton Extract (EP) is a vital energy enhancer, so necessary for the skin. EP awakens dormant cells and speeds up metabolism. EP molecules are antioxidants that carry bioenergy to aging cells that have lost activity. EP energy feeds enzymes and proteins whose activity depends on phosphorylation and dephosphorylation. Over time, skin cells become more and more "lazy." Cells are extended, become longer and motionless, their dynamics are lost, the epidermis ages, and the renewal of cells involved in the synthesis of metabolism slows down.

Plankton extract gives an impetus to fast-reacting cellular dynamism, awakening motionless cells and creating optimal conditions for them like young and healthy skin.

Preservatives are selected from the group consisting of methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters, Hermaben II, CATON CG, bronitrol or bronopol.

Cream preparation is carried out according to the following technology.

A mixture of PEG-100 stearate and glycerol monostearate, PEG-20 stearate, cetyl alcohol is loaded into a preparatory boiler for preparing the fat phase and heated to a temperature of 80 ° C.

Water, carbopol are charged into the reactor and heated to a temperature of 45 ° C.

When the temperature reaches 75-80 ° C, molten fatty raw materials are fed into the reactor from the preparatory boiler and caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate, cetiol, a mixture of methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters are added.

Emulsification of the cream is carried out at a temperature of 75-80 ° C for 20-30 minutes. Cooling is turned on, and a solution of triethanolamine, a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicanol are added at a temperature of 60-65 ° C, then plant extracts and plankton extract are charged as cooling.

When cooled to a temperature of 45-30 ° C load bronopol, soy protein, then the perfume composition.

The finished cream is analyzed, then pumped into a collection container for storage and transferred to the packaging.

The cream is a homogeneous mass from white to cream color.

An experimental batch of cream has been developed.

The inventive cream has passed toxicological and clinical trials in an accredited test laboratory center of the Institute of Beauty.

Toxicological studies have shown that the cream for eyes "Diamond" does not have a general toxic, skin-irritating and sensitizing effect.

Clinical trials were conducted on 20 female volunteers aged 27-45 years for 3 weeks (for results, see table. 3).

Flattening of the studied teeth was noted on average: Rt avg by 9.5%, R max avg by 7.6%, R z-d avg by 11.3%, which indicates smoothing of the network of fine wrinkles.

Tests have shown that the cream is harmless, does not have an irritating and allergenic effect and is intended for skin care of the eyelids.

The course application of Diamant Eye Cream for 3 weeks on 20 volunteers - women aged 27-45 years at the stage of intensive skin care for the eyelids and under the eyes showed the clinical effect in the parameter: skin profile - smoothing the network of fine wrinkles.

Eye cream “Diamond” restores the energy balance of skin cells, smoothes fine wrinkles and strengthens intercellular connections, eliminates swelling, reduces dark circles under the eyes and prevents their appearance. Eye cream “Diamond” is applied with light movements to the skin of the eyelids and under the eyes in the morning and / or evening.

Literature

1. Eye cream “Divo”, JSC “SADKO”, Russia, 2002 (prototype).

2. De Luc K. Squalen, M .: Cosmetics &Medicine; 2002, 5: 18-24.

3. Academy of Sciences of the Belarusian SSR, Medicinal plants and their use, Minsk, Ed. Science and Technology, 1974, p. 434-445.

4. A. Margolin, Biologically active additives to decorative cosmetics, M .: Cosmetics & Medicine, 1999, 1; 45-49.

5. B. G. Volynsky and others. Plants in medicine; ed. Saratov University, 1989, p. 384.

Claims (1)

Eye cream containing structure-forming emulsifiers - a mixture of PEG-100 stearate and glycerol monostearate in a ratio of 1: 1, PEG-20 stearate, cetyl alcohol or high molecular weight synthetic alcohols C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ , or synthetic alcohols primary fatty fractions C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ , gelling agents, moisturizing additives - distilled or propylene glycol glycerin, oil phase, dietary supplements, preservative - hermaben II, perfume composition and water, characterized in that it additionally contains film-forming components - cycle mixture pentasiloxane and dimethicanol in a ratio of 1: 1, neutralizing agents - triethanolamine, or sodium hydroxide, or sodium hydroxide, technical, as structure-forming emulsifiers additionally contains caprylic / capric triglyceride, contains isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate as an oil phase, or carmeli carbopol, as biologically active additives contains squalane, blue cornflower water-alcohol flower extract or blue cornflower water-alcohol glycerin flower extract extract, or flower extract of blue cornflower in propylene glycol, extract of chamomile flowers, water-alcohol or extract from chamomile flowers, water-alcohol-glycerin, or extract from chamomile flowers in propylene glycol, peach extract (fruits), water-alcohol or peach extract (fruits), water-alcohol-glycerides or peach extract (fruits) in propylene glycol, hydrolyzed soy protein, plankton extract, additionally contains methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters, or Cato CG, or bronitrol, or bronopol, with the following content of components, wt.%: A mixture of PEG-100 stearate and monostearate 1.00-5.00 glycerol in a ratio of 1: 1 PEG -20 stearate 0.50-3.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 1.00-4.00 Isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate 1.00-6.00 A mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicanol 2.00-8.00 in the ratio 1: 1 Squalane 0.50-3.00 Distilled glycerin or propylene glycol 0.50-5.00 Cetyl alcohol or alcohols high molecular weight synthetic C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ , or primary synthetic alcohols fat fractions C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ 0.50-4.00 Carbomer or carbopol 0.01-2.00 Triethanolamine, or sodium hydroxide, or 0.01-2.00 caustic soda technical Cornflower Blueberry Flower Extract alcohol or cornflower flower extract blue water-alcohol glycerin, or cornflower blue's flower extract propylene glycol 0.20-2.00 Water-alcohol camomile flower extract or extract from chamomile flowers alcohol glycerin or flower extract chamomile in propylene glycol 0.20-2.00 Peach extract (fruit) water-alcohol or peach extract (fruits) water-alcohol-glycerin, or peach extract (fruit) in propylene glycol 0.20-2.00 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein 0.10-1.00 Plankton Extract 0.10-1.00 Methyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester, or CATON CG, or Hermaben II 0.01-1.00 Propyl paraoxybenzoic ether acid, or CATON CG, or Hermaben II 0.01-1.00 Bronitrol or Bronopol 0.01-0.50 Perfume Composition Up to 0.30 Drinking water Up to 100