RU2295951C1 - Composition for face and eyelids skin care - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine, cosmetics, pharmacy.

SUBSTANCE: composition comprises hyaluronic acid sodium salt, aristoflex and polyphenol-containing vegetable extracts chosen from group including tannins and/or flavonoids. Composition can comprise grape kernel oil or tea tree oil additionally. Composition provides enhancing effectiveness of regenerating, anti-inflammatory and cleansing effect and possesses antioxidant, antibacterial and antiparasitic capacity. Invention can be used as composition used for face and eyelids skin care, among them, using microcurrent and ultrasonic therapy and for prophylaxis and treatment of blepharitis and demodecosis.

EFFECT: valuable medicinal and cosmetic properties of composition.

3 cl, 5 ex

Description

The invention relates to cosmetology and medicine, and relates to compositions for skin care for the face and eyelids, including using microcurrent and ultrasound therapy, as well as for the prevention and treatment of blepharitis and demodicosis.

In cosmetics and medicine, products containing hyaluronic acid and its salts are widely used. Hyaluronic acid is a natural polysaccharide and gelling agent. It has an unsurpassed hydrating effect, maintains water balance in the skin cells, and strengthens collagen fibers. In addition, hyaluronic acid and its salts have regenerative, antiviral and wound healing activity.

Currently, due to its unique properties, hyaluronic acid is widely introduced into various cosmetics, combining it with a variety of biologically active substances.

Known cosmetic mask [RU 2191000 C2, 10.20.2002], which includes hyaluronic acid or its salts, leukocyte extract and plant extracts: aloe, ginseng, calendula, linden, chamomile, sage, lemon and grape, as well as a gel-forming component, stabilizer , antioxidant and thinner. The mask has a reparative effect. As a result of its use, the elasticity and firmness of the skin increase.

In a cream mask for dehydrated skin [RU 2216314 C1, 11/20/2003] the use of hyaluronic acid, witch hazel extract, anti-inflammatory complex, transdermal carrier of oxygen, vitamins F and E, panthenol and azulene for full skin care, relieve irritation and inflammation is proposed.

It is known to use hyaluronic acid, extracts of aloe, coca, ebony and other plants as a whitening cosmetic agent that reduces skin pigmentation, prevents aging, and restores skin elasticity [CN 1437929, 08/27/2003].

The use of hyaluronic acid in combination with Aloe Vera and other plant components is described to increase the skin's water-holding properties, reduce wrinkles, and also for the treatment of arthritis, atherosclerosis and other diseases [JP 2003238432, 08.27.2003].

But these and other well-known therapeutic and cosmetic products do not have sufficiently high cleansing and anti-inflammatory effects.

The closest in composition and achieved effect to the claimed technical solution is a composition for skin care for the face and eyelids, including sodium hyaluronate, a biologically active substance of plant origin - the natural polysaccharide Aloe Vera and polyvinylpyrrolidone as an auxiliary polymer [RU 2218907 C1, 12/20/2003] . The composition has hydrating, regenerating, cleansing and anti-inflammatory effects, and also helps to remove toxins and intoxicants from the skin, which allows it to be used not only in medical cosmetology for microcurrent and ultrasound therapy, but also for the prevention and treatment of blepharitis (inflammatory diseases of the eyelids) .

The objective of this technical solution is to create a therapeutic and cosmetic composition with increased efficiency, which has a regenerating, cleansing, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antiparasitic effect. In addition, the claimed composition expands the range of medical and cosmetic products.

This is achieved by the fact that in the composition based on the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, an auxiliary water-soluble polymer, a biologically active substance of plant origin and water, Aristoflex is additionally introduced as an auxiliary polymer, and plant extracts containing polyphenols are used as a biologically active substance in the following ratio of components , wt.%:

Hyaluronic acid sodium salt 0.01-3.0 Aristoflex 0.01-1.5 Plant Extracts Containing Polyphenols 0.1-15.0 Water Up to 100

In the proposed therapeutic and cosmetic composition, the polymer obtained from natural raw materials or by the microbiological method is used as the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

As an auxiliary water-soluble polymer, the Aristoflex-copolymer of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone, manufactured by Clariant GmbH, is introduced into the claimed composition. Aristoflex is usually used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and a structurant that softens the dense texture of the cream.

In the present invention, Aristoflex is used not only as a structure-forming agent, but also as an effective binding agent, which, thanks to the hydrophobic bonds of the copolymer, as well as its hydrophilic sulfo groups, is able to interact with the biologically active substances of the composition and prolong their action by longer retention of biologically active compounds on skin surface.

Aristoflex in combination with hyaluronic acid and herbal extracts promotes deep and effective skin cleansing, binding, elimination of toxins, and also affects the intensity and duration of exposure to biologically active substances, which allows their more effective use in skin and eyelid skin care products, and also for the treatment of blepharitis and demodicosis.

As plant extracts, plant extracts containing polyphenols selected from the group of tannins and / or flavonoids are used.

Tannins - a group of phenolic compounds of plant origin containing a large number of hydroxyl groups (mol.m. 500-3000), have tanning properties. They are able to form strong bonds with proteins, polysaccharides and other biopolymers, including hyaluronic acid. Tannins are found in the bark, wood, leaves and / or fruits (sometimes seeds, roots, tubers) of many plants, give leaves and fruits a tart taste. Tannins inhibit the growth of pathogenic microorganisms, are used as astringent drugs [Kretovich V.L., Plant Biochemistry, 2nd ed., M., 1986]. It has also been established that tannins absorb ultraviolet light; therefore, they are used in cosmetics to prevent burns and skin aging. In addition, tannins narrow the pores, reduce the release of sebum, and inhibit the peroxidation of skin lipids.

Flavonoids - a group of biologically active compounds derived from phenol, which are actively involved in the redox process, are strong antioxidants.

As plant extracts containing polyphenols (tannins and / or flavonoids), the proposed therapeutic and cosmetic composition contains, for example, but not limited to, extracts of green tea, witch hazel, grape seed and chamomile.

Green tea extract is unique in composition because it contains both flavonoids and tannins (up to 30%), which coagulate skin proteins, forming a dense film on its surface, and have a bactericidal and bacteriostatic effect. In addition, green tea extract activates blood circulation and the process of supplying cells with oxygen, helps to eliminate toxins and toxins, enhances the protective properties of the skin. Tea extract well cleanses the pores of the skin, prepares it for further procedures: softens the cells that begin to exfoliate, gently removes them without harm to the skin, while softening it.

Witch hazel is a tree or shrub whose leaves contain a large amount of tannin. Witch hazel extract has an antibacterial, astringent and tonic effect on the skin, cleanses it, helps reduce pores and regulates the sebaceous glands.

Chamomile contains flavonoids and essential oil. Chamomile extract is externally used for inflammation of the mucous membranes, for burns, cracked hands, acne, oily seborrhea, oily skin. In cosmetics, it is also used as a natural dye and antiseptic.

The grape seed extract contains polyphenols and inhibits the process of lipid peroxidation of the skin, which is enhanced during natural aging, with the development of diseases of various etiologies, with exposure to UV rays, with changes in ambient temperature and other factors, i.e. possesses antioxidant property. Tannin, which is part of the grape seed extract, tightens pores, reduces the release of sebum, which allows it to be included in various cosmetics.

These extracts of green tea, witch hazel, chamomile and grape seed containing polyphenols complement and enhance the effectiveness of the composition due to interaction with hyaluronic acid and Aristoflex.

In addition to these plant extracts, depending on the skin condition and purpose of the cosmetic product, other plants containing tannins and / or flavonoids, such as extracts of yarrow, raspberry, parsley, horsetail, lemon, cornflower, clove, can be added to the composition and many others.

It is advisable to add essential oils, for example, grape seed oil or tea tree oil, to the proposed composition to enhance cosmetic properties.

Grape seed oil is a translucent liquid and has cytoprotective, antioxidant and regenerative properties. Its widespread use in cosmetology is based on the fact that grape seed oil provides exfoliation of dead skin cells, significantly improves the tone and structure of the skin, which becomes much softer and smoother. The oil also regulates the normal activity of the sebaceous glands, prevents excessive sebaceous secretion and enlargement of pores.

Tea tree essential oil is one of the most powerful antiseptic, antifungal and bactericidal agents. In professional dermatology and cosmetology, it is used as an anti-inflammatory agent with a wide spectrum of action to eliminate pustular and acne, to eliminate bacterial and viral dermatitis. Tea tree oil eliminates irritation, swelling, itching and redness. It is a good remedy against warts and papillomas.

All of the above herbal components are selected and shown in the examples due to the fact that they can be successfully applied both to the skin of the face and eyelids without injuring the mucous membrane.

Herbal extracts of green tea, witch hazel, chamomile and grape seed are commercial products and are available in a variety of environments. Advantageously, the proposed composition contains extracts of said plants in water / propylene glycol (20/80) with a plant / extract ratio of 1/2.

The following additives traditional for therapeutic and cosmetic compositions can also be introduced into the composition: sunscreens, various thickeners, preservatives, vitamins, collagen, elastin, lecithin, phospholipids, mineral or vegetable oils, emulsifiers, polyhydric alcohols, antioxidants, sulfur preparations, etc. .d.

These compositions can be obtained by known technologies in the form of a gel, lotion, cream or emulsion of the type "oil / water".

The inventive composition is prepared in the following way.

Example 1 (in the form of a gel).

30 g (3.0 wt.%) Of the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid are mixed in 100 g of water with 5 g (0.5 wt.%) Of green tea extract, 2.5 g (0.25 wt.%) Of witch hazel extract and 2 5 g (0.25 wt.%) Grape seed extract and add a solution of 0.5 g (0.05 wt.%) Aristoflex in 100 g of water. The mixture was adjusted with water to 100 wt.% And stirred at room temperature until a uniform gel was formed.

Example 2 (in the form of a lotion).

0.1 g (0.01 wt.%) Of the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid are mixed with 0.1 g (0.01 wt.%) Of Aristoflex, previously dispersed in 100 g of water. Into the resulting mixture, 50 g (5.0 wt.%) Of green tea extract, 50 g (5.0 wt.%) Of witch hazel extract and 50 g (5.0 wt.%) Of chamomile extract are added. The mixture was adjusted with water to 100 wt.% And mixed, previously introducing preservatives, to obtain a liquid lotion.

Example 3 (as a cream gel).

In the reactor, pre-swollen 1.0 g (0.1 wt.%) Sodium salt of hyaluronic acid is mixed in 150 ml of water, a solution of 15 g (1.5 wt.%) Aristoflex in 100 ml of water and a mixture of previously prepared 4 g (0 , 4 wt.%) Vitamin A and 2 g (0.2 wt.%) Vitamin E in 30 g (3.0 wt.%) Silicone SF, then plant extracts are added: 1.0 g (0.1 wt. %) of green tea, 1.0 g (0.1 wt.%) of witch hazel, 1.0 g (0.1 wt.%) of chamomile and 5.0 g (5.0 wt.%) of grape seed oil. Bring water to 100 wt.%, And mix thoroughly until a homogeneous mass.

Example 4 (in the form of a gel).

The composition in the form of a gel is obtained analogously to example 1, only 5 g (0.5 wt.%) Of precipitated sulfur (Sulfur precipitatum) are additionally introduced.

Example 5 (in the form of an emulsion of the type ″ oil-water ″).

In the reactor, 0.1 g (0.01 wt.%) Of the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid is mixed in 15 ml of water, a solution of 1.0 g (0.1 wt.%) Of Aristoflex in 10 ml of water, 1 g (0.1 wt.%) extract of witch hazel, and then 0.1 g (0.01 wt.%) tea tree oil and 2.0 g (0.2 wt.%) silicone. Bring water to 100% and mix thoroughly until a homogeneous mass.

Clinical and toxicological tests of cosmetic compositions were carried out at the Center for Cosmetological Correction of the Central Clinical Hospital of the Russian Academy of Sciences.

Compositions in the form of gel, lotion and cream were used to care for the skin of the face and eyelids, including massage, microcurrent and ultrasound therapy programs for skin restoration and cleansing, iontophoresis, and lymphatic drainage.

Using these compositions, effective cleansing, regeneration and hydration of the skin, as well as the removal of edema and the elimination of inflammatory phenomena, especially in patients with problematic skin, were observed. As a result of the use of cosmetics based on the proposed composition, after the first session, the patients' skin color and turgor improved, fine wrinkles disappeared, deep folds decreased, facial contours were corrected, and inflammatory phenomena disappeared. The combination of hyaluronic acid, Aristoflex and these plant extracts contributed to the regeneration of metabolic processes in the skin, had a rejuvenating effect on the skin, promoted the synthesis of collagen and elastin, as well as the active removal of age spots.

The obtained gels were also used for skin care of the eyelids, for the prevention and treatment of blepharitis and demodicosis (a parasitic disease of the eyelids caused by Demodex ticks).

Clinical trials were conducted at the Institute of Eye Diseases RAM (Moscow, Russia).

Gels were used 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening. After washing, the gel was applied to the eyelids with a cotton swab with an ear stick or fingertips, carefully treating the edges of the eyelid and the roots of the eyelashes. The course of treatment ranged from 1 week to 3 weeks. The very next day after applying the composition, a subjective improvement was noted. During biomicroscopy, hyperemia of the edges of the eyelids disappeared by the end of the first week, scaly and sebaceous deposits were absent, there was a decrease or complete absence of mucous or mucopurulent discharge, and the swelling disappeared. During repeated microscopy of the eyelashes for the presence of demodex, a significant decrease in the number of both adults and demodex larvae was revealed, which indicated a decrease in the activity of the demodicosis process until its complete disappearance. 3 weeks after application of the composition, adult individuals were not detected at all, which may indicate the antidemocotic effect of the gel.

These compositions have also been successfully used for the prevention and treatment of barley and blepharoconjunctivitis.

The advantage of the proposed therapeutic and cosmetic compositions containing sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, Aristoflex and plant extracts containing polyphenols is to increase the efficiency, cleanse and regenerate the skin, protect it from environmental influences and infections due to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antiparasitic effects all components included in the composition.

Compared with the prototype, the use of the claimed composition allows in sessions of microcurrent and ultrasound therapy, lymphatic drainage and massage to significantly reduce the number of sessions to obtain a persistent effect of rejuvenation, facelift, effective cleansing, moisturizing and regeneration of the skin. In addition, this composition contributes to the processes of activation in the cells, faster recovery of collagen and elastin in the skin.

A balanced combination of all components allows you to reduce the treatment of blepharitis from 1 month to 2 weeks, as well as successfully use this tool for the treatment of demodicosis.

This technical solution can be used to produce a variety of medical and cosmetic products for skin care for the face and eyelids. In medical cosmetology, these compositions can be used for microcurrent and ultrasound therapy, in programs for restoration and skin cleansing, as well as lymphatic drainage. In particular, the proposed composition could be used for the prevention and treatment of blepharitis and blepharoconjunctivitis of various etiologies, recurrent barley and demodecosis.

Claims (3)

1. Composition for skin care for the face and eyelids, containing the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a water-soluble polymer, a biologically active substance of plant origin and water, characterized in that it contains Aristoflex as a polymer, and plant extracts containing polyphenols, in the following ratio, wt.%: Hyaluronic acid sodium salt 0.01-3.0 Aristoflex 0.01-1.5 Plant Extracts Containing Polyphenols 0.1-15.0 Water Up to 100 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the plant extracts containing polyphenols are selected from the group of tannins and / or flavonoids, for example extracts of green tea, and / or witch hazel, and / or chamomile, and / or grape seed. 3. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it further comprises grape seed oil or tea tree oil in an amount of 0.01-5.0 wt.%.