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WO2024126541A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant de la piroctone olamine, au moins 1% de niacinamide et un extrait de racine de gingembre - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant de la piroctone olamine, au moins 1% de niacinamide et un extrait de racine de gingembre Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024126541A1
WO2024126541A1 PCT/EP2023/085488 EP2023085488W WO2024126541A1 WO 2024126541 A1 WO2024126541 A1 WO 2024126541A1 EP 2023085488 W EP2023085488 W EP 2023085488W WO 2024126541 A1 WO2024126541 A1 WO 2024126541A1
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weight
preferentially
composition
composition according
better still
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English (en)
Inventor
Christophe Boulle
Olivia TOURIGUINE
Mathilde RIVIERE
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority to EP23822026.3A priority Critical patent/EP4633599A1/fr
Priority to CN202380084007.3A priority patent/CN120322220A/zh
Publication of WO2024126541A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024126541A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4926—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]

Definitions

  • TITLE Cosmetic composition comprising piroctone olamine, at least 1% niacinamide and a ginger root extract
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising piroctone olamine, at least 1% by weight of niacinamide and a ginger root extract.
  • the invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin materials such as the skin, notably human scalp, hair and/or eyelashes, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for treating the loss and/or promoting the regrowth of keratin fibres.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for cosmetically treating dandruff.
  • the present invention relates to the field of the cosmetic treatment of human keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibres, such as human head hair, eyebrows, eyelashes and/or bodily hair, notably beard hair, moustache hair and pubic hair, and of the skin, notably the scalp and areas of the skin, in particular alopecic or non-alopecic areas, preferably alopecic areas, covered with keratin fibres as mentioned previously. More particularly, the invention relates to the cosmetic treatment of human hair and/or eyelashes and/or skin, preferably hair and/or scalp.
  • the growth and renewal of the hair in humans are mainly determined by the activity of the hair follicles and of their dermo -epidermal environment. Their activity is cyclical and essentially comprises three phases, namely the anagenic phase, the catagenic phase and the telegenic phase.
  • the anagenic phase (corresponding to the active or growth phase), which lasts several years and during which the hairs lengthen, is followed by a very short and transient catagenic phase which lasts a few weeks.
  • the hair strand undergoes a change, the follicle atrophies and its dermal implantation appears higher and higher.
  • the terminal phase which lasts a few months, corresponds to a resting phase known as the telegenic phase. At the end of this resting period, the hair falls out and is replaced by new hair follicles in the anagenic phase, in such a way that another hair cycle begins. Head hair is thus constantly being renewed and, of the approximately 150000 individual hairs which make up a head of hair, at any one moment approximately 10% are at rest and will thus be replaced in the months to come.
  • Alopecia denotes accelerated loss of head hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or bodily hair in any part of the body. It generally occurs in genetically predisposed individuals and mainly affects men. This is known as androgenetic or androgenic alopecia, or even androgeno-genetic alopecia.
  • Alopecia is essentially due to a disturbance in hair renewal, which initially leads to an acceleration in the frequency of the cycles at the expense of the hair quality and then its quantity. This results in a gradual impoverishment of the hair by the regression of the “terminal” hairs to the downy stage. Certain areas are preferentially affected: notably in men, the temporal or frontal lobes and also the upper part of the occipital lobe, whereas in women diffuse alopecia of the vertex is seen.
  • Alopecia may also affect the eyelashes, eyebrows and/or bodily hair on any part of the human body, and may cause aesthetic displeasure in the same way as alopecia affecting one or more areas of the scalp.
  • Such treatments generally consist of daily applications to the various alopecic areas of the human body, in particular to alopecic areas of the scalp, such as the temporal or frontal lobes in men, or areas of the body free of hair, in particular on the face, notably the beard, moustache and/or eyebrows, of cosmetic compositions comprising one or more agents for combating hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth.
  • agents such as minoxidil, finasteride, aminexil or stemoxydine may notably be mentioned as agents that are capable of reducing the loss and/or promoting the regrowth of keratin fibres.
  • the duration of these treatments generally ranges from several weeks to several months, and may even extend over years, and their long-term efficacy most often depends on assiduous regular application by the user of the cosmetic compositions to the areas to be treated, which may be more or less extensive.
  • the application of treatments that are capable of reducing the loss and/or promoting the regrowth of head hair, eyelashes and/or bodily hair may notably last several weeks before the desired effects can begin to be seen, in particular curbing alopecia.
  • compositions still too often have numerous application drawbacks which may have a negative impact on the cosmetic treatment to be followed, notably leading to more or less rapid abandonment of the treatment and, consequently, to poor results in terms of limiting or even eliminating alopecia.
  • compositions include gelling agents in order to prevent the composition from running onto the face, into the eyes or down the nape of the neck.
  • gelling agents notably in the context of daily use, leads to aggregation of the keratin fibres, giving the head of hair a tacky effect that is unacceptable to consumers.
  • the insufficient application qualities of these compositions may in the long term discourage users from assiduously following cosmetic treatments for combating hair loss and/or promoting hair regrowth, all the more so as the efficacy of these treatments is mainly linked to the regular daily application of the compositions described previously to the areas to be treated for several weeks or even several months.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising: i) piroctone olamine, ii) at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of niacinamide, and iii) a ginger root extract.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention allows a head of hair to be obtained which shows good individualization of the keratin fibres, without aggregation or tackiness.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention does not cause the product to transfer onto the fingers during application or during the day.
  • the fingers are thus not greasy or tacky when the composition is used.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also has improved application qualities by avoiding the powdery effect on keratin fibres and/or the scalp, in particular in the context of repeated application required for frequent use.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is also entirely satisfactory in terms of its efficacy in combating the loss and/or promoting the regrowth of keratin fibres and/or in combating dandruff. It also has a beneficial effect on increasing the diameter of the keratin fibres and on strengthening the fibres against breakage.
  • the composition according to the invention gives good cosmetic properties, notably conditioning properties, to keratin fibres, particularly in terms of sheen, suppleness, disentanglement and a smooth feel.
  • the invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin materials such as the skin, notably human scalp, hair and/or eyelashes, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for treating the loss and/or promoting the regrowth of keratin fibres and/or for cosmetically treating dandruff.
  • dandruff treatment means the cosmetic treatment of dandruff, notably to delay or prevent its appearance.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for increasing the diameter of keratin fibres and/or for reinforcing keratin fibres against breakage.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises piroctone olamine.
  • Piroctone olamine is a monoethanolamine salt of l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridinone.
  • the total content of piroctone olamine ranges from 0.05% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1%, preferentially from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises niacinamide (3- pyridinecarboxamide) in a content of greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Niacinamide is also known as nicotinamide.
  • the total content of niacinamide ranges from 1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1.5% to 4.5% by weight and better still from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises a ginger root extract (INCI name: Zingiber officinale root extract).
  • the ginger root extract may be in crushed, powdered or liquid form, preferably in liquid form.
  • the ginger root extract may notably be obtained by supercritical CO 2 extraction from ginger root fragments, for example ginger root powder.
  • the total content of ginger root extract preferably ranges from 0.02% to 0.5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.03% to 0.3% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-N-oxide (and/or an organic or mineral acid salt thereof and/or a hydrate thereof) and/or one or more hydroxylated compounds with a melting point of less than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa) and a boiling point of greater than or equal to 170°C, as defined hereinbelow.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-N-oxide and/or an organic or mineral acid salt thereof and/or a hydrate thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydroxylated compounds with a melting point of less than 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa) and a boiling point of greater than or equal to 170°C.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-N-oxide (and/or an organic or mineral acid salt thereof and/or a hydrate thereof) and one or more hydroxylated compounds with a melting point of less than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa) and a boiling point of greater than or equal to 170°C.
  • 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-N-oxide 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-N-oxide
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-N-oxide and/or an organic or mineral acid salt thereof and/or a hydrate thereof.
  • 2,4-Diaminopyrimidine 3-N-oxide (INCI name: Diaminopyrimidine oxide) has the following formula:
  • organic or mineral acid salts that may be used, mention may be made in particular of the hydrochlorides, sulfates, citrates and acetates. As hydrate, mention may be made in particular of the monohydrate.
  • the non-salified compound in monohydrate form is used.
  • the total content of 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-N-oxide and/or an organic or mineral acid salt thereof and/or a hydrate thereof is preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5%, even more preferentially from 0.2 to 4%, better still from 0.5% to 3%, and even better still from 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-N-oxide and/or a hydrate thereof, notably a monohydrate ranges from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5%, even better still from 0.2% to 4%, from 0.5% to 3% and preferentially from 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more hydroxylated compounds v) with a melting point below 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa) (e.g. they are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure) and a boiling point of greater than or equal to 170°C.
  • said hydroxylated compounds with a melting point below 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa) and a boiling point of greater than or equal to 170°C consist of a C2-C8 hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted with an oxygen atom and comprising from one to two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms.
  • These compounds may be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • the hydroxylated compound(s) v) with a melting point of less than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa) and a boiling point of greater than or equal to 170°C are chosen from linear C2-C8, better still C2-C6, diols or aromatic C6- C8, better still C7-C8, monoalcohols and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the hydroxylated compound(s) are chosen from linear C2-C8, preferably C2-C6, diols.
  • the total content of hydroxylated compound(s) v) with a melting point below 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa) and a boiling point of greater than or equal to 170°C in the composition is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of hydroxylated compounds v) with a melting point below 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa) and a boiling point of greater than or equal to 170°C ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 10%, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 2.1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2.2% to 5%, even better still from 2.3% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of hydroxylated compounds v) chosen from linear C2-C8 diols is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, better still ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially ranges from 1.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 2.1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2.2% to 5% by weight, even better still from 2.3% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of propylene glycol is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, better still ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 2.1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2.2% to 5% by weight, even better still from 2.3% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents other than the hydroxylated compounds v) described previously.
  • organic solvents are preferably chosen from C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferentially C2-C4 monoalcohols. Particularly preferably, ethanol is used.
  • the composition comprises one or more organic solvents other than the hydroxylated compounds v) described previously, preferentially one or more C2-C4 monoalcohols, better still ethanol.
  • the total content of organic solvents other than the hydroxylated compounds v) preferably ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, preferentially from 5% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 40% by weight, better still from 20% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the ethanol content preferably ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, preferentially from 5% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 40% by weight, better still from 20% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is preferably aqueous, the water content possibly ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 80% by weight and preferentially from 40% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. vii) Thickening polymers
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more thickening polymers.
  • thickening polymers means compounds which, by their presence at a concentration of 0.05% by weight, increase the viscosity of a composition into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps (20 mPa.s), preferably by at least 50 cps (50 mPa.s), at room temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s' 1 (the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
  • the thickening polymer(s) that may be used in the process according to the invention are preferentially chosen from non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • sucrose unit means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • the sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
  • the sugar units of the thickening polymers are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
  • polymers bearing sugar units are also known as polysaccharides.
  • Non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units that may notably be mentioned include native gums such as: a) tree or shrub exudates, including:
  • acacia gum branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • - ghatti gum polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid
  • karaya gum polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • gum tragacanth polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose
  • gums derived from algae including:
  • locust bean gum polymer of mannose and galactose
  • - fenugreek gum polymer of mannose and galactose
  • microbial gums including:
  • - xanthan gum polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid
  • - gellan gum polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may notably be made of the temperature.
  • Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation or oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may notably be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.
  • these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
  • nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with Ci-Ce (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • Ci-Ce (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxy alkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
  • nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • the botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers.
  • the starches are chosen, for example, from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
  • the starches may be chemically or physically modified, particularly by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.
  • Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferentially be used, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA- 70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized com distarch phosphate).
  • amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.
  • the anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site.
  • the anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic type.
  • the cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
  • the starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, notably such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.
  • the starch is preferably derived from potato.
  • the non- associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulose- based polymers not comprising a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.
  • cellulose-based polymer refers to any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via P-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
  • cellulose ethers cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters are distinguished.
  • cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates.
  • cellulose ester ethers mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
  • nonionic cellulose ethers not bearing a C10-C30 fatty chain i.e. “non-associative” cellulose ethers
  • mention may be made of Ci -Chalky Icelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Ci -Chalky Icelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aquaion) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aquaion); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and
  • anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. Mention may be made, by way of example, of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aquaion) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.
  • cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and notably described in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • non-associative thickening polymers not bearing sugar units that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide, alone or as mixtures.
  • a first family of non-associative thickening polymers that is suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • homopolymers of this type mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, for instance the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VSA. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.
  • the non-associative thickening polymers may also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.
  • the non-associative thickening polymers may be chosen from crosslinked 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may similarly comprise, as non- associative thickening polymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide.
  • ammonium acrylate homopolymers mention may be made of the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst.
  • copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bozepol C Wunsch or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company Hoechst.
  • Use may also be made of cationic thickening polymers of acrylic type.
  • thickening polymers mention may also be made of the associative polymers that are well known to those skilled in the art and notably of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature, preferably anionic.
  • sociative polymers are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
  • Hydrophilic zone More particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
  • Hydrophobic group means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based group originates from a monofunctional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
  • anionic associative polymers those that are particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth-10), notably those sold by the company Ciba under the names Salcare SC 80® and Salcare SC 90®, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10);
  • (C10-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids that are useful in the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
  • anionic associative polymers of this type use will more particularly be made of those constituted of from 60% to 95% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those constituted of from 96% to 98% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described previously.
  • the ones most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TRI®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TRI®, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®.
  • maleic anhydride/C30-C38 a-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the product (maleic anhydride/C30-C38 a-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies.
  • acrylic terpolymers comprising: i) approximately 20% to 70% by weight of an a,P-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A], ii) approximately 20% to 80% by weight of an a,P-monoethylenically unsaturated non- surfactant monomer other than [A], iii) approximately 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 EO) terpolymer, as an aqueous 25% dispersion.
  • a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylen
  • these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of an a,P-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol.
  • Aculyn 22® sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer; and also Aculyn 88, also sold by the company Rohm & Haas. Mention may also be made of Novethix L-10 Polymer sold by the company Lubrizol, having the INCI name Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer.
  • amphiphilic polymers including at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.
  • the ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic group are notably chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci- C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C 1 -C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C 1 -C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.
  • (meth)acrylamido(Ci- C22)alkylsulfonic acids for instance acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2- acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3- heptanesulfonic acid, and also the partially or completely neutralized forms thereof.
  • (meth)acrylamido(Ci- C22)alkylsulfonic acids for instance acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesul
  • APMS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • the polymers of this family may be chosen notably from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n- alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00/31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, P-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • the preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.
  • copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not including a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, P- substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • ethylenically unsaturated monomers not including a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acids, P- substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • - terpolymers including from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(Ce- Cis)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US-5 089 578.
  • copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate and also crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.
  • cationic associative polymers mention may be made of:
  • Polyacrylate- 1 Crosspolymer is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
  • the alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
  • Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Aquaion, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Croda and the product Softcat SL 100® sold by the company Aquaion.
  • cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers use is particularly made of vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyl- dimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacryl- amidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylamino- propy Imethacry lamide/laury Idimethy Imethacry lamidopropy lammonium to sy late or chloride terpolymers.
  • amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those including at least one noncyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, preference is given to those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol% and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty-chain monomer relative to the total number of moles of monomers.
  • Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.
  • amphoteric associative polymers preference is given to acrylic acid/(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.
  • the associative polymers of nonionic type that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
  • copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers including at least one fatty chain for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
  • polyurethane polyethers including in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences;
  • polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie;
  • celluloses or derivatives thereof modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof in which the alkyl groups are of Cs, and in particular:
  • nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (Ci6 alkyl) sold by the company Aquaion; * nonionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by the company Amerchol;
  • nonionic alkylcelluloses such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel;
  • associative guar derivatives for instance hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified with a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie.
  • the polyurethane polyethers include at least two hydrocarbonbased lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being side chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.
  • the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
  • the polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form.
  • the hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer).
  • These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
  • the fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain including from 50 to 1000 oxy ethylene groups.
  • the nonionic polyurethane poly ethers include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.
  • fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
  • nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, use may also be made of Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.
  • the product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas bearing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, provided at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
  • Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in an aqueous/alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox.
  • Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas.
  • polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).
  • a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
  • Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%);
  • Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
  • the composition comprises one or more thickening polymers, preferentially chosen from non- associative thickening polymers free of sugar units, anionic associative thickening polymers, in particular anionic associative acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of thickening polymer(s) is in the range from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 1% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may optionally also comprise one or more additives other than the compounds described previously, such as those chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, anti-dandruff agents, anti- seborrhoeic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, opacifying or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, preserving agents and ceramides.
  • additives other than the compounds described previously, such as those chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, anti-dandruff agents, anti- seborrhoeic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including pan
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin materials such as the skin, notably human scalp, hair and/or eyelashes, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition as defined previously.
  • composition according to the present invention is preferably applied topically, notably to the scalp and/or the hair.
  • composition may or may not be followed by rinsing after a possible leave-on time.
  • the application of the composition according to the invention is not followed by rinsing.
  • the cosmetic treatment process is a process for caring for the hair and/or the scalp.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use of a cosmetic composition as defined previously for treating the loss and/or promoting the regrowth of keratin fibres and/or for cosmetically treating dandruff.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use of a cosmetic composition as defined previously for increasing the diameter of keratin fibres and/or reinforcing keratin fibres against breakage.
  • compositions are given as mass percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise mentioned).
  • composition A accordinging to the invention and composition A’ (comparative) were prepared using the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (% A.M.):
  • the locks were then wet 10 times under the tap between two fingers and then squeezed dry twice between two fingers before being combed with a large-toothed comb (twice) and then a small-toothed comb (twice).
  • compositions A (according to the invention) and A' (comparative) were then applied by hand, at a rate of 0.4 g per 2.7 g lock, and spread over the entire lock.
  • the locks were then combed with a small-toothed comb (once) and smoothed out by hand before being blow-dried with air at room temperature.
  • compositions A and A’ were then applied twice more to dry hair, without rinsing between the successive applications, the locks being blow-dried between each application.
  • sheen was evaluated visually. An expert slid a lock flat between the index and middle fingers, from the root to the end, and estimated the reflection of light at the curve of the hair on the fingers. The more light the hair reflected, the shinier it was.
  • composition A’ (comparative) were tackier than the locks treated with composition A according to the invention.
  • the fibres of the locks treated with composition A were more individualized than those of the locks treated with composition A’ (comparative), which had bundled fibres.
  • composition A (according to the invention) were shinier than the locks treated with composition A' (comparative).

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant de la piroctone olamine, au moins 1% en poids de niacinamide et un extrait de racine de gingembre. L'invention concerne également un procédé de traitement cosmétique de matières kératiniques humaines telles que la peau, notamment le cuir chevelu, les cheveux et/ou les cils humains, comprenant au moins l'application de la composition cosmétique selon la présente invention. La présente invention concerne également l'utilisation de ladite composition cosmétique pour traiter la perte et/ou favoriser la repousse des fibres kératiniques. La présente invention concerne également l'utilisation de ladite composition cosmétique pour le traitement cosmétique des pellicules.
PCT/EP2023/085488 2022-12-16 2023-12-13 Composition cosmétique comprenant de la piroctone olamine, au moins 1% de niacinamide et un extrait de racine de gingembre Ceased WO2024126541A1 (fr)

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EP23822026.3A EP4633599A1 (fr) 2022-12-16 2023-12-13 Composition cosmétique comprenant de la piroctone olamine, au moins 1% de niacinamide et un extrait de racine de gingembre
CN202380084007.3A CN120322220A (zh) 2022-12-16 2023-12-13 包含吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐、至少1%烟酰胺和姜根提取物的化妆品组合物

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FR2213545A FR3143350A1 (fr) 2022-12-16 2022-12-16 Composition cosmétique comprenant de la piroctone olamine, au moins 1% de niacinamide et un extrait de racine de gingembre
FRFR2213545 2022-12-16

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Cited By (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3156651A1 (fr) * 2023-12-18 2025-06-20 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant du niacinamide et un gingérol pour le traitement de la chute des cheveux

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3156651A1 (fr) * 2023-12-18 2025-06-20 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant du niacinamide et un gingérol pour le traitement de la chute des cheveux
WO2025132575A1 (fr) * 2023-12-18 2025-06-26 L´Oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant de la niacinamide et du gingérol pour le traitement de la chute des cheveux

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