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WO2012084533A1 - Procédé pour déformer des fibres contenant de la kératine - Google Patents

Procédé pour déformer des fibres contenant de la kératine Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012084533A1
WO2012084533A1 PCT/EP2011/072207 EP2011072207W WO2012084533A1 WO 2012084533 A1 WO2012084533 A1 WO 2012084533A1 EP 2011072207 W EP2011072207 W EP 2011072207W WO 2012084533 A1 WO2012084533 A1 WO 2012084533A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
fibers
acid
keratin
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2011/072207
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Thorsten Knappe
Helga Flodrop Van
Anna Henschel
Rolf Bayersdörfer
Georg KNÜBEL
Wibke Gross
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of WO2012084533A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012084533A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of reshaping keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
  • the invention relates to the use of at least one (C 3 to C 4 ) - Ketose for reshaping keratin inconveniencer fibers, especially human hair, and a corresponding forming process and usable therein means for forming.
  • keratin-containing fibers in principle all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products made therefrom or textiles.
  • the invention is preferably used in the context of a hair shaping, in particular the smoothing of curly human hair and wigs made therefrom.
  • a permanent deformation keratin inconveniencer fibers is usually carried out so as to mechanically deform the fiber and determines the deformation by suitable means.
  • the fiber Before and / or after this deformation, the fiber is treated with a keratin-reducing preparation. After a rinsing operation, the fiber is then treated with an oxidizing agent preparation in the so-called fixing step, rinsed and freed from the forming aids (e.g., winders, papillots) after or during the fusing step.
  • a mercaptan e.g.
  • Ammonium thioglycolate is used, this part of the disulfide bridges of the keratin molecule cleaves to -SH groups, so that there is a softening of keratin fibers.
  • disulfide bridges are knotted in the hair keratin, so that the Keratinge Shege is fixed in the predetermined deformation.
  • sulfite instead of the mercaptans for hair styling.
  • the permanent smoothing of keratin-containing fibers is achieved analogously by the use of keratin-reducing and -oxidierenden compositions.
  • the frizzy hair is either wound on large diameter winders, usually more than 15 mm, or the hair is combed smooth under the action of the keratin reducing composition.
  • the fiber is also possible to put the fiber on Smoothing out the smoothing board.
  • Smoothing boards are usually rectangular boards, for example made of plastic.
  • the fiber is wetted with the keratin-reducing preparation.
  • the known forming methods especially in the case of smoothing, have the disadvantage that the keratin-containing fiber is charged electrostatically.
  • the deformation result of the known methods in terms of the degree of deformation and the uniformity of the deformation is in need of improvement. When an improvement in the degree of deformation is achieved, this is usually accompanied by an increased damage to the keratin-containing fiber.
  • the object of the invention is therefore to provide a shaping method for keratin-containing fibers, in particular for human hair, which provides a very good and lasting deformation result, which cares for the fiber and protects the structure of the fiber.
  • the object is achieved by the use of at least one (C 3 to C 4 ) -ketose in the context of a reshaping keratin-containing fibers.
  • the keratin fibers are not visibly changed in color.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore the use of at least one (C 3 to C 4 ) ketose for the transformation of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
  • the (C 3 to C 4 ) -ketoses according to the invention are thus selected from at least one compound of the group which is formed
  • 1, 3-dihydroxyacetone is particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the transformation keratin inconveniencer fibers, especially human hair with the supply of heat in the context of a heat-assisted transformation keratin inconveniencer fibers.
  • at least one (C 3 to C 4 ) -Ketose for heat-assisted forming keratin inconveniencer fibers, especially human hair at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, especially preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C).
  • a heat source is preferably a hot air blower (for example, in the embodiment as a hair dryer, hood or curling iron), a flat iron or a corrugated iron.
  • At least one (C 3 to C 4 ) -ketose in particular 1, 3-dihydroxyacetone
  • a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, more preferably 150 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 120 ° C to 220 ° C.
  • the cosmetic agent based on the total weight of the agent, at least 1, 0 wt .-%, again preferred at least 10.0 wt .-%, more preferably at least 15.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably at least 20.0 wt .-%, most preferably at least 25.0 wt .-%, at least one (C 3 to C 4 ) -ketose (especially 1, 3-dihydroxyacetone).
  • a second aspect of the invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, based on the total weight of the composition, at least 1.0% by weight of a (C 3 to C 4 ) -ketose.
  • the agent according to the invention contains the (C 3 to C 4 ) -ketoses (in particular 1, 3-dihydroxyacetone) in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, more preferably of at least 15.0% by weight. %, more preferably at least 20.0 wt .-%, most preferably at least 25.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains.
  • compositions of the embodiment with 1, 3-dihydroxyacetone as (C ⁇ to C 6 ) -Ketose it is conceivable, the 1, 3-dihydroxyacetone as a monomer and / or in its dimeric form as 2,5-dihydroxy-2, 5-dihydroxymethyl-1, 4-dioxane to use the cosmetic agent.
  • the agents according to the invention contain the ingredients or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media.
  • Aqueous alcoholic media preferably contain at least 10% by weight of water, in particular at least 30% by weight of water, in each case based on the total agent.
  • the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms especially (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkanes
  • cosmetic purposes such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol
  • at least one (C ⁇ to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkane in the inventive compositions in particular in an amount of 1 to 50 wt .-% in particular from 5 to 30 wt .-% use.
  • the cosmetically acceptable carrier of the agent according to the invention very particularly preferably contains at least 10% by weight of water and 0 to 50% by weight of at least one (C 1 -C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkane (in particular at least 30% by weight of water and optionally 5%) to 30 wt .-% of at least one (C ⁇ to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkane), each based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C. may be present in an amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent according to the invention.
  • co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
  • particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and 1, 2-propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent.
  • the agent based on the total weight of the composition, contains less than 0.5% by weight (in particular less than 0.1% by weight) of sulfur-containing keratin-reducing compounds.
  • the agents according to the invention are particularly preferably free from sulfur-containing, keratin-reducing compounds. Keratin reducing compounds are capable of reductively cleaving keratin fiber disulfide groups to form thiol groups.
  • the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one setting polymer selected from at least one compound from the group consisting of strengthening nonionic polymers, setting anionic polymers, setting amphoteric polymers and setting cationic polymers.
  • polymers are understood as meaning compounds which are made up of a large number of molecules in which one or more types of atoms or atomic groups (so-called constitutive units, basic units or repeating units) are repeatedly arranged next to one another and which has a molecular weight of at least 10,000 g / mol have.
  • the polymers are obtained by polyreaction, the latter being synthetic (i.e., synthetic) or natural.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays.
  • the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
  • the agent according to the invention preferably contains at least one consolidating cationic polymer.
  • the additional strengthening cationic polymers have at least one structural unit containing at least one permanently cationized nitrogen atom.
  • Nitrogen atoms are to be understood as meaning those nitrogen atoms which carry a positive charge and thereby form a quaternary ammonium compound.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds are usually prepared by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents such as methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide.
  • alkylating agents such as methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide.
  • alkylammonium compounds alkenylammonium compounds, imidazolinium compounds and pyridinium compounds.
  • Preferred agents in the context of this embodiment comprise the setting cationic polymers in an amount of from 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
  • the cationic fixing polymers can be selected according to the invention from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be advantageous in the sense of the embodiment which carries more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.
  • cationic cellulose derivatives those which are prepared from the reaction of hydroxyethylcellulose with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant (in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), if appropriate in the presence of further reactants.
  • a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
  • cationic setting polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (N1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (N2) and, if appropriate, at least one structural unit of the formula K1
  • R and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • a and A 2 are each independently a group of ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or
  • R 2 , R 3 , R 5 and R 6 independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • R 7 is a (C 8 to C 30 ) alkyl group.
  • Suitable compounds are, for example, as Copolymers of diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, with N-vinylpyrrolidone having the INCI name Polyquaternium-1 1,
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.
  • N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers which are designated according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-16 and N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, which are referred to as Polyquaternium-44 according to INCI nomenclature.
  • Particularly preferred polymers are also N-
  • Methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers which according to INCI nomenclature are referred to as Polyquarternium-46.
  • Methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers which according to INCI nomenclature are referred to as Polyquaternium-68.
  • the reinforcing nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the agent of this embodiment in an amount of from 0.1% to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 15.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.
  • compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain at least one chitosan as nonionic setting polymer.
  • chitosans as typical biopolymers come within the meaning of the invention as derivatives alkoxylated chitosans in question.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as chitosan at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid.
  • organic carboxylic acid from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids.
  • the chitosans or their derivatives are preferred in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 2.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the strengthening nonionic polymers are preferably selected from at least one
  • An agent which comprises, as a consolidating nonionic polymer, at least one polymer selected from the group formed
  • Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with NN-DC ! to C 4) alkylamino (C 2 to C 4) -alkylacrylamid, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (C! to C 4) alkylamino (C 2 to C 4) -alkylacrylamid, are according to the invention very particularly preferred.
  • Further possible means according to the invention with additional nonionic setting polymer are characterized in that they comprise as nonionic setting polymer at least one copolymer containing at least one further structural unit of formula (N1) and at least one structural unit of formula (M3) and at least one structural unit of formula Contains (N3)
  • a particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers of INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain as consolidating polymer at least one consolidating amphoteric polymer.
  • An example of a usable according to the invention setting amphoteric polymer is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.
  • the strengthening amphoteric polymers are preferably present in the water-based compositions which can be used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.
  • At least one solidifying anionic polymer can be used as setting polymers.
  • the composition of the invention contains a solidifying anionic polymer, it is preferably in the form of a spray, in particular an aerosol spray.
  • the solidifying anionic polymers are polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • the setting anionic polymers are preferred in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 20.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 wt .-% to 15.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • Particularly preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group formed
  • polymers are selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed from copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and N-tert-butylacrylamide.
  • the water-based composition which can be used according to the invention as an anionic setting polymer may contain at least one polyurethane having at least one carboxyl group (for example a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol).
  • the setting anionic polymers are preferably contained in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the water-based composition ,
  • the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one cationic surfactant.
  • cationic surfactants selected from quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines or mixtures thereof are preferred.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80 and Dehyquart ® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
  • the cationic surfactants are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil
  • Polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercial product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
  • R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • w is a number from 1 to 20 .
  • Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines
  • alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C 2 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,
  • the agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • ethylene oxide in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide
  • linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • These are very particularly preferably ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50.
  • the agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1.
  • the pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred.
  • the pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.
  • compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.
  • auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.
  • a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used as a care material.
  • Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
  • Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Dimethicone copolyols form another group of silicones that are suitable.
  • teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion.
  • Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone.
  • the agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • the protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.
  • compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.
  • Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the mono- or oligosaccharides are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • the agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example:
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  • R, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q ) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total application preparation, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.1 to 15% by weight. %.
  • the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (ß- hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl
  • aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
  • the dyes which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c).
  • the cationic substantive dyes sold under the trademark Arianor® are also very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the agents according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors.
  • Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. Form the developer components under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components, the actual dyes.
  • compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.
  • a third object of the invention is a method for reshaping, in particular for smoothing, keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, in which
  • a cosmetic agent containing, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one (C 3 to C 4 ) -ketose (preferably a cosmetic agent of the second subject of the invention) is applied to the fibers,
  • the fibers are formed with the aid of deformation aids
  • step (i) - deformed after, before or during step (i), and / or
  • auxiliary for a mechanical smoothing such as a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heated flat iron in case of hair straightening.
  • Mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean stretching of the curly fiber along its longest spatial extent.
  • step (ii) it is preferred, in the context of a hair straightening, to smooth the fibers mechanically during the contact time from step (ii), in particular by combing or with the aid of a smoothing board.
  • the keratin-containing fibers are moistened prior to step (i). This can be done by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably water.
  • the fibers are shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the terry step remains a noticeable residual moisture in the hair back.
  • reaction time of step (ii) is preferably 5-150 minutes, more preferably 10-60 minutes.
  • step (ii) it is preferred according to the invention to dry the fibers in step (ii) before the heat treatment of step (iii).
  • a dry keratin-containing fiber according to step (ii) of the method according to the invention is present when the water residues adhering to the hair have evaporated to such an extent that the hairs fall individually.
  • dry keratin fiber either the moisture content of the fiber is substantially in equilibrium with the humidity of the air, or the fiber absorbs moisture from the ambient air.
  • Such a dry fiber is preferably obtained by drying the wet fiber with hot air using a hair dryer.
  • step (ii) is preferably carried out if after step (ii) a heat treatment takes place in the context of a forming process, in which the surface of the keratin-containing fibers is directly with a tempered surface of a forming aid (eg flat iron or corrugated iron) during a forming step ,
  • a heat treatment takes place in the context of a forming process, in which the surface of the keratin-containing fibers is directly with a tempered surface of a forming aid (eg flat iron or corrugated iron) during a forming step
  • the fibers are subjected to a heat treatment with simultaneous deformation of the fiber at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, more preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C). more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C).
  • Simultaneous deformation means that during the heat treatment the fiber is transformed into a mold, e.g. by mechanical smoothing or fixation of the form by Wckler or Papilloten, brought or held.
  • a heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the fiber at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, particularly preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C).
  • the heat treatment can be done with hot air. In this case, the fiber is heated during the combing exactly at the point where the mechanical smoothing takes place.
  • the heat treatment in the manner of smoothing with the aid of a so-called smoothing iron with appropriately tempered plates, in particular metal or ceramic plates takes place in which the plate is pressed onto the fiber to be smoothed and pressed onto the fiber plate is moved along the fiber.
  • the plates may optionally be coated with heat resistant materials.
  • Particularly preferred is the keratin-containing fiber to be smoothed between two pressed according to tempered plates and both plates simultaneously moved along the longest spatial extent of the fiber. It is again preferred that both plates are connected to each other, so that both plates can be moved uniformly along the fiber.
  • the heat treatment is performed on living hair, the fiber is attached to one end (hair root).
  • the plates in this case are preferably moved evenly away from the hair root along the entire fiber. This movement causes a mechanical smoothing of the fiber.
  • a suitable device for heat treatment for example, the device "Ceramic Fiat-Master" (sold by: Efalock, Germany) or Schwarzkopf Professional: Model No: IP30A.
  • the fibers are heat-treated under mechanical curling of the fiber in a step (iii) following step (ii) at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C , more preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C).
  • the heat treatment can be done with a hot air blower.
  • the fiber is wound around a corresponding hot air curling iron and heated precisely at the point where the Krausung occurs.
  • the fibers are wound on curlers as a deformation aid and heated with a hair dryer.
  • the fibers can be treated as part of a post-treatment at the end of the process according to the invention with a commercial conditioner.
  • the following cosmetic agent according to the invention was prepared by mixing the components.
  • compositions marked with E are according to the invention, the V marked are non-inventive compositions.
  • compositions marked S are comparative standards.
  • the hair strand became 1 gram for about 1 minute shampooed the said shampoo and then rinsed under clean water (about 1 minute).
  • the strand of hair was as smooth as possible and placed straight on a watch glass and drizzled with the composition of the invention.
  • the product was lightly rubbed in with a finger (wear gloves!).
  • the strand of hair was well moistened.
  • the flat iron (brand: Schwarzkopf Professional, Model No: IP30A) was heated at the highest level (210 ° C) for at least 10 minutes.
  • the temperature between the heating plates measured with a contact thermometer (brand: Qtemp 300) was 180 ° C after 10 minutes.
  • the hair strand was hung for 2 days and allowed to rest.
  • the lock of hair was slightly squeezed between tissues but not completely dried. 13. With the hair dryer (brand: BaByliss type S25) the strand of hair was dried. Care was taken to blow dry the streak as smoothly as possible. Aid here was a comb of horn. The foehn temperature was about 80 to 120 ° C.
  • the tress was dipped in a beaker with water until completely wetted. The water was easily expressed between the fingertips. Then the tress was hung on a leash again and allowed to air dry.
  • the hair strand became 1 gram for about 1 minute shampooed the said shampoo and then rinsed under clean water (about 1 minute).
  • the strand of hair was wound with the aid of lace paper around a plastic winder, fixed with a hair clip, placed on a watch glass and drizzled with the composition according to the invention.
  • the strand of hair was well moistened.
  • the Wckler was placed with the tress on a new watch glass and dried in a warming cabinet at 45 ° C. It was then removed from the oven and allowed to cool.
  • the hair strand was placed on a clean watch glass for 2 days and allowed to rest. 10. After this time the tress was washed under the same conditions as indicated in point 1 and with the shampoo "Syoss Nutrition Oil Care”.
  • the winder and hair strand was again dried at 45 ° C in a warming cabinet, then removed from the oven and allowed to cool.
  • the strands formed with E1 to E4 were compared with standard S1.
  • the strands formed with the means V1 to V3 were compared with the standard S2.

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Abstract

Des cétoses (C3 à C4), en particulier 1,3-cihydroxyacétone, conviennent pour la déformation de fibres contenant de la kératine, en particulier de cheveux humains. Une tenue particulièrement bonne et de longue durée peut être obtenue par un procédé de déformation assisté par la chaleur.
PCT/EP2011/072207 2010-12-23 2011-12-08 Procédé pour déformer des fibres contenant de la kératine Ceased WO2012084533A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE201010064054 DE102010064054A1 (de) 2010-12-23 2010-12-23 Verfahren zur Umformung keratinhaltiger Fasern
DE102010064054.9 2010-12-23

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WO2012084533A1 true WO2012084533A1 (fr) 2012-06-28

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WO2015074969A3 (fr) * 2013-11-21 2015-09-17 Unilever Plc Procédé de coiffage
US10588839B2 (en) 2013-11-21 2020-03-17 Conopco, Inc. Method of shaping hair
US10617615B2 (en) 2013-11-21 2020-04-14 Conopco, Inc. Method of treating hair
US11554083B2 (en) 2020-05-07 2023-01-17 James Robinson Group Ltd DHA as a hair colourant
CN116905222A (zh) * 2023-08-17 2023-10-20 上海水星家用纺织品股份有限公司 提高蚕丝保暖性的处理方法以及采用处理后的蚕丝制成的蚕丝被

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2015074969A3 (fr) * 2013-11-21 2015-09-17 Unilever Plc Procédé de coiffage
US10588839B2 (en) 2013-11-21 2020-03-17 Conopco, Inc. Method of shaping hair
US10617615B2 (en) 2013-11-21 2020-04-14 Conopco, Inc. Method of treating hair
US11554083B2 (en) 2020-05-07 2023-01-17 James Robinson Group Ltd DHA as a hair colourant
CN116905222A (zh) * 2023-08-17 2023-10-20 上海水星家用纺织品股份有限公司 提高蚕丝保暖性的处理方法以及采用处理后的蚕丝制成的蚕丝被

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