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WO2013091994A1 - Utilisation d'au moins un acide carboxylique antéiso (c8-c30) pour le coiffage à chaud résistant à l'humidité - Google Patents

Utilisation d'au moins un acide carboxylique antéiso (c8-c30) pour le coiffage à chaud résistant à l'humidité Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013091994A1
WO2013091994A1 PCT/EP2012/072257 EP2012072257W WO2013091994A1 WO 2013091994 A1 WO2013091994 A1 WO 2013091994A1 EP 2012072257 W EP2012072257 W EP 2012072257W WO 2013091994 A1 WO2013091994 A1 WO 2013091994A1
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Prior art keywords
agent
weight
hair
formula
anteiso
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Rolf Bayersdörfer
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/185—Acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof, e.g. sulfur acids, imidic, hydrazonic or hydroximic acids
    • A61K31/19—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid
    • A61K31/20—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having a carboxyl group bound to a chain of seven or more carbon atoms, e.g. stearic, palmitic, arachidic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to auxiliaries for the temporary transformation of keratin-containing fibers, in particular using heat.
  • all animal hair e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
  • the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
  • a temporary deformation agent for keratinous fibers also referred to below as a styling agent
  • a styling agent treating the treated fibers in the newly modeled form - i. a form imprinted on the fibers - to give as strong a hold as possible.
  • the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent.
  • the hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of setting agents used, but also an influence of the other ingredients of the styling agent may be given.
  • styling agents In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or of the sprayed aerosol, and of properties relating to the handling of the styling agent, the properties of the hair being of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable for all hair types and mild to hair and skin. In order to meet the different requirements, a variety of synthetic polymers have already been developed as setting agents, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric setting polymers.
  • the polymers when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff. Similar problems arise when waxes find use as a firming agent in the styling agent.
  • the use of elevated temperatures plays an important role in the styling process.
  • a hot air curling iron or straighteners the keratin-containing fibers are exposed for a long time temperatures of 50 ° C and more. Repeated heat styling can lead to permanent damage to the hair fiber structure.
  • the additives are said to protect against heat, improve the durability of the fixed form (e.g., hairstyle), especially at high humidity, and at least not affect parameters such as elasticity, flexibility and volume.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for the temporary deformation of keratin-containing fibers, which is characterized by a high degree of hold with a good durability (especially at high humidity) or by a high care effect, and protects the fibers from the action of heat ,
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore the use of at least one ante bis (C 8 to C 30 ) carboxylic acid for the protection of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, from heat.
  • An ante bis (C 8 to C 30 ) carboxylic acid comprises at least one carboxyl group and at least one structural unit CH 3 -CH 2 -CHCH 3 -CH 2 -CH 2 - *.
  • a chemical bond, indicated by a * in a structure, in preceding and in all following formulas, unless otherwise indicated, means a free valency of the corresponding structural fragment.
  • the anteiso (C 8 to C 30 ) carboxylic acids of the present invention are preferably selected from compounds of formula (ante)
  • n is an integer from 1 to 23, preferably from 5 to 21, more preferably 14, and M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.
  • the compounds of the formula (ante) may be present in the form of the free acid or as its salt.
  • M is a hydrogen atom.
  • M is one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation.
  • the monovalent or polyvalent cation M z + or M ' z + with a charge number z of one or higher serves, for reasons of electroneutrality, to compensate for the singly negative charge of the carboxylate ion present during salt formation.
  • the equivalent of the corresponding cation to be used is 1 / z.
  • the fragment * -OM of the formula (Ante) stands for the group in the case of salt formation: * -0 " 1 / z (M z + )
  • physiologically compatible cations are suitable as mono- or polyvalent cations M z + .
  • these are metal cations of the physiologically acceptable metals from the groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, Via or VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, ammonium ions, as well as cationic organic compounds with quaternized nitrogen atom.
  • the latter are formed for example by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid, such as with compounds of formula (I) in their acidic form, or by permanent quaternization of said organic amines.
  • these cationic organic ammonium compounds are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol.
  • M is preferably, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an alkali metal ion, half an equivalent of an alkaline earth metal ion or half an equivalent of a zinc ion, more preferably a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, a sodium ion, a potassium ion, calcium ion, magnesium ion or zinc ion.
  • the 18-methyl eicosanoic acid is most preferably suitable anteiso (C 8 to C 30 ) carboxylic acid.
  • the anteiso- (C 8 to C 30 ) carboxylic acid as a component of a cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation keratin restroomr fibers, especially human hair apply.
  • a second aspect of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • the agents according to the invention contain the ingredients or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media having preferably at least 10% by weight of water, calculated on the total weight of the agent.
  • the cosmetic carrier according to the invention particularly preferably comprises water (in particular in the amount such that the cosmetic agent, calculated on the total weight of the composition, contains at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably at least 30% by weight. %, most preferably at least 40 wt .-% water).
  • alcohols it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • At least one (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkane in the agents according to the invention in particular in an amount of from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 3 to 30% by weight. This is in turn preferred in particular for the packaging as pump foam or aerosol foam.
  • organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0, 1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent may be included.
  • Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
  • particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent according to the invention contains as the first compulsory component at least one anteiso (C 8 to C 30 ) carboxylic acid.
  • Preferred anteiso (C 8 to C 30 ) carboxylic acids are those of the first subject of the invention (vide supra).
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the anteiso (C 8 to C 30 ) carboxylic acid in an amount of from 0.01 to 20.0% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
  • the agents according to the invention necessarily contain as the second component at least one setting active substance.
  • This firming agent is different from the anteiso- (C 8 to C 30 ) carboxylic acids.
  • a firming active substance within the meaning of the invention contributes to the maintenance of the impressed shape of the fibers (in the case of hair, in particular, the hold of a hairstyle or of the hair volume).
  • the so-called curl retention test or the three-point bending test is often used.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise the setting active ingredients in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 25.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 1.0% by weight to 20.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 1, 0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
  • the firming agent of the agent according to the invention is preferably selected from at least one setting polymer and / or from at least one wax.
  • the setting agent be selected from at least one setting polymer selected from the group consisting of setting nonionic polymers, setting anionic polymers, setting amphoteric polymers and setting cationic polymers.
  • agent according to the invention may preferably contain at least one consolidating cationic polymer.
  • the additional strengthening cationic polymers have at least one structural unit containing at least one permanently cationized nitrogen atom.
  • Permanently cationized nitrogen atoms are to be understood as meaning those nitrogen atoms which carry a positive charge and thereby form a quaternary ammonium compound.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds are most commonly prepared by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents, e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also produced ethylene oxide.
  • alkylating agents e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also produced ethylene oxide.
  • alkylating agents e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also produced ethylene oxide.
  • Preferred agents in the context of this embodiment comprise the film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2% by weight to 10.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition.
  • the cationic fixing polymers can be selected according to the invention from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be advantageous in the sense of the embodiment which carries more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.
  • cationic cellulose derivatives those which are prepared from the reaction of hydroxyethylcellulose with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant (in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), if appropriate in the presence of further reactants.
  • a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
  • these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 ® by the company National Starch.
  • cationic fixing polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI) and optionally at least one structural unit of the formula (V)
  • R and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • a and A 2 are each independently a group of ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or
  • R 2 , R 3 , R 5 and R 6 independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • R 7 is a (C 8 to C 30 ) alkyl group.
  • Suitable compounds are, for example, as
  • ISP Aquastyle ® 300
  • R is a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group,
  • At least one copolymer (c1) is contained in the cationic setting polymer according to the invention which additionally comprises, in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1), a structural element of the formula (I)
  • R is a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.
  • Very particularly preferred cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (c1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units according to Formula (M1) and 70 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (I).
  • the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1) and (I) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • Polyquaternium-16 N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers
  • BASF under the trade names Luviquat ® Style , Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ® Luviquat.RTM ® HM 552
  • N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ® Ultra Care available.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, starting from the copolymer (c1), have structural units of the formula (VII) as additional structural units
  • compositions of this embodiment are therefore characterized in that they comprise as cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c2), the at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least structural unit of formula (I) and at least structural unit of formula (VII)
  • the copolymers (c2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I) and (VII) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers (c2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (I) and (VII) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 2)
  • indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
  • a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ® Hold by BASF ,
  • Very particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol .-% and in particular 40 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (I) and 40 to 60 mol .-%, preferably 45 to 55 mol .-% and in particular 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (VII).
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise copolymers (c3) as a consolidating cationic polymer.
  • copolymers (c3) contain, as structural units structural units of the formulas (M1 -a) and (I), as well as further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.
  • compositions according to this embodiment are characterized in that they contain as cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c3) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least one further structural unit of formula (I) and at least one further structural unit according to Contains formula (VIII) and at least further structural unit according to formula (IX)
  • the copolymers (c3) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VIII) and (IX) in the copolymer , at most 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers (c3) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1 -a), (I), (VIII) and (IX) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly3)
  • a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® Supreme available.
  • Very particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol% and in particular 55 mol% of structural units of the formula (I) and 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (VIII ) and 20 to 40 mol .-%, preferably 25 to 35 mol .-% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (IX).
  • N-vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium chloride copolymers such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ® Style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luviquat HM 552 ® (BASF SE)
  • Luviquat ® Style such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ® Style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luviquat HM 552 ® (BASF SE)
  • Luviquat ® Style such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ® Style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luvi
  • N-vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium copolymers such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ® (BASF SE)
  • BASF SE Luviquat Care ®
  • N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylcaprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ® Care or Luviquat ® Hold (BASF SE)),
  • N-vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / N-vinyl imidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazoliummethylsulfat- copolymer for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 ® under the trade name Luviquat Supreme (BASF SE)
  • the preferred setting polymer is likewise at least fixing polymer selected from chitosan and its derivatives.
  • Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.
  • derivative is meant, according to the invention, derivatives of a chemical compound (e.g., chitosan) which can be prepared from this chemical compound by structurally altering a functional group of said chemical compound.
  • chitosans For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as cheap raw materials in large quantities.
  • the chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum.
  • bases Preferably used are those having an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, have a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88% and an ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%.
  • chitosans as typical cationic biopolymers
  • cationically derivatized chitosans such as, for example, quaternization products
  • alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable for the purposes of the invention.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain neutralizing products of chitosan with at least one acid as chitosan derivative (s) according to the invention as consolidating polymer.
  • the acid used for the neutralization is preferably selected from organic acids, in particular from formic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids. It is very particularly preferred to select the acid (s) used for the neutralization from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids.
  • Suitable chitosan are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ® HCMF (chitosan (80%) deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ® NB / commercially 101 freely available.
  • Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis)
  • the chitosan or its derivatives are preferred in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0, 1 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise as a consolidating polymer at least one consolidating nonionic polymer.
  • a nonionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which carries in a protic solvent under standard conditions substantially no structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality. Quaternized ammonium groups, however, do not include protonated amines under cationic groups. Examples of anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.
  • the setting nonionic polymers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention of this embodiment in an amount of from 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.
  • such reinforcing nonionic polymers having at least one structural element of the formula (M2) (M2)
  • R ' is a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a propanoyl group, in particular an acetyl group bear.
  • the strengthening nonionic polymers are again preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group being formed
  • Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are, for example, commercial products such as Luviskol ® K 90 or Luviskol ® K 85 from BASF SE. Suitable polyvinyl alcohols are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ® from DuPont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products.
  • Suitable polyvinyl acetate is marketed under the trade name Vinac ® as an emulsion from Air Products.
  • An agent which comprises, as a consolidating nonionic polymer, at least one polymer selected from the group formed
  • Carbon atoms in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
  • nonionic fixing polymer at least one copolymer which contains at least one further structural unit according to Formula (I) and at least one structural unit according to formula (VII) and at least one structural unit according to formula (VIII)
  • copolymers (c4) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) and can be distinguished by the general formula (poly4)
  • a particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers of the INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer, which are obtainable, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain as consolidating polymer at least one consolidating amphoteric polymer.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or S0 3 H groups and which are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ' or -S0 3 ' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or S0 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • An example of a usable according to the invention setting amphoteric polymer is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, ethyl methacrylate, a copolymer of tert-butylamino, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers selected from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters represents.
  • the latter have in addition to the cationogenic group or positively charged group at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers.
  • the setting amphoteric polymers are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.
  • At least one film-forming anionic polymer can be used as setting polymers.
  • Anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers, vinyl esters and styrene.
  • Preferred strengthening anionic polymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups.
  • a particularly preferred solidifying anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mole% acrylamide and 30 to 45 mole% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • solidifying anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be used. be used networking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (as 60 wt .-%, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a - marketed dispersion in isopropanol-water)
  • Copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (as Acrylates Copolymer sold for example under the trade name Luviflex ® Soft having an acid number from 84 to 105 under the INCI name in an about 20 to 30 wt .-% dispersion in water by BASF SE become),
  • Polyurethanes having at least one carboxyl group such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1, 6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as sold under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI name Polyurethane-1 from BASF SE).
  • Waxes are preferably used as the setting agent according to the invention.
  • Waxes used in the invention are kneadable at 20 ° C, solid to brittle hard, coarse to fine crystalline, translucent to opaque, but not glassy; melting above 40 ° C without decomposition.
  • Waxes differ from similar synthetic or natural products (eg, resins, plastic masses, metal soaps, etc.) in that they go from 40 ° C to 90 ° C in the molten, low-viscosity state.
  • such waxes are preferred which have a melting point in the range from 50 ° C. to 85 ° C., in particular from 60 ° C. to 75 ° C., at 1013 mbar.
  • the waxes are selected from vegetable, animal and mineral waxes.
  • Particularly preferred waxes according to the invention are beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes (microcrystalline paraffins) and cetyl palmitate.
  • the teaching according to the invention also comprises the combined use of several waxes as component (b) of the agent according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably contain the waxes in amounts of from 1.5 to 60% by weight, based on the total preparation. Amounts of from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 25% by weight, are particularly preferred.
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (A): Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • n is an integer from 1 to 23, preferably from 5 to 21, more preferably 14, and M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation and additionally
  • n is an integer from 1 to 23, preferably from 5 to 21, particularly preferably 14, and M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation (b) from 0.1% by weight to 25, 0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1, 0 wt .-% to 20.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition, at least one setting polymer.
  • n is an integer from 1 to 23, preferably from 5 to 21, particularly preferably 14, and M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation (b) at least one wax as a strengthening agent.
  • n is an integer from 1 to 23, preferably from 5 to 21, particularly preferably 14, and M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation (b) from 1, 5 to 60 wt .-% , based on the entire preparation. Amounts of 5 to 40 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition, at least one wax as a consolidating agent.
  • the ante bis (C 8 to C 30 ) carboxylic acid prefferably be 18-methyl eicosanoic acid.
  • agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • w is a number from 1 to 20 .
  • Hydroxymix ethers as described for example in DE-OS 19738866, Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
  • alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C 2 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,
  • the agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1.
  • the pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred.
  • the pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.
  • compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.
  • auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.
  • a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used as a care material.
  • Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
  • Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine.
  • the term "silicone oils” is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols. Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Dimethicone copolyols form another group of silicones that are suitable.
  • Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 5330 Fluid.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 to 10,000 ⁇ , preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ , more preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 ⁇ .
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone.
  • the agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • the protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as a care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.
  • the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol.
  • the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one extra kt plant.
  • Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • the agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example: vegetable oils.
  • liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 -C 30 -fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 -
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures.
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil body in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0, 1 to 30 wt.%, Based on the total application preparation, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, and in particular 0, 1 to 15 wt. %.
  • the agent contains a plurality of care substances also from different groups.
  • the UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes.
  • the agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the agents according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors.
  • Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.
  • Hair creams and gels generally contain structurants and / or thickening polymers which serve to give the products the desired consistency.
  • Structurants and / or thickening polymers are typically used in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention are preferably present as foam, in particular as pump foam or aerosol foam, particularly preferably as aerosol foam.
  • the agent according to the invention (in particular the preferred embodiments (A) to (D)) therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant. It is obtained in the presence of anteiso- (Ci to C 6 ) -carboxylic a foam with good foam parameters.
  • the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device which either represents an additional compressed gas container ("aerosol container”) filled with a propellant or a non-aerosol container.
  • aerosol container an additional compressed gas container
  • the pressurized gas containers with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as “aerosol containers”.
  • nonaerosol container a container under normal pressure is defined in reverse to the aerosol definition, with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action by a pumping system.
  • suitable propellants are for example selected from N 2 0, dimethyl ether, C0 2 , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and their mixtures.
  • alkanes mentioned, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether as the sole blowing agent are preferably used.
  • the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.
  • Butane according to the invention is understood to mean n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of n-butane and isobutane.
  • isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container (for example a bag of a bag-on-valve system).
  • the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container for example a bag of a bag-on-valve system.
  • Aerosolbe at least one other, different from isopentane propellant is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane.
  • the blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, isobutane) and mixtures thereof.
  • a third object of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent of the second subject of the invention is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.
  • the cosmetic agents of the second article of the invention are preferably left on the fibers.
  • the keratin-containing fibers prefferably be shaped before, after or during the application of the cosmetic product of the second subject of the invention and this form is fixed by the cosmetic agent of the second subject of the invention.
  • the keratin-containing fibers in particular the hair, are subjected to a heat treatment with temperatures of at least 80 ° C. after application of the agent according to the invention of the second subject of the invention.
  • the heat treatment is particularly preferably carried out at temperatures of 80 ° C to 250 ° C, most preferably at temperatures of 120 ° C to 200 ° C - performed.
  • the heat source used here is preferably a solid which is heated up in particular directly to 80 ° C. to 250 ° C., particularly preferably to 120 ° C. to 200 ° C., in contact with the hair (corrugated iron or flat iron) or appropriately tempered air, e.g. by using a hair dryer or curling iron.
  • the fibers are subjected to a heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the fiber at a temperature of 120-220 ° C.
  • a strand of hair is wound around a suitably tempered, rounded body, for example a rod-shaped or tubular body, and unwound again after a residence time of 10 to 30 seconds.
  • a mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean stretching of the curly hair along the longest spatial extent of the hair fiber.
  • the heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the hair preferably takes place at a temperature of 140-200 ° C.
  • the heat treatment can be done with hot air. In this case, the hair is heated during the combing exactly at the point where the mechanical smoothing takes place.
  • the heat treatment in the manner of smoothing by means of appropriately tempered plates, in particular metal or ceramic plates, takes place, in which the plate is pressed onto the hair to be smoothed and moved to the hair pressed plate along the hair fiber becomes.
  • the plates may optionally be coated with heat resistant materials.
  • the hair fiber to be smoothed is pressed between two appropriately tempered plates and both plates are simultaneously moved along the longest spatial extent of the fiber. It is again preferred that both plates are connected to each other, so that both plates can be moved uniformly along the hair fiber.
  • the heat treatment is performed on the living hair, the hair fiber is attached to one end (hair root).
  • the plates are in this case preferably moved evenly away from the hair root along the entire hair fiber. Done by this movement a mechanical smoothing of the fiber.
  • a corresponding device for heat treatment for example, the device "Ceramic Fiat-Master" (distributed by: Efalock, Germany).
  • the formulations A to E were each filled into an aerosol container, which fulfills the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 522983 PV10697 from Pecision (Deutsche refzisions-Ventil GmbH).
  • the aerosol container was filled with a propellant gas mixture of propane / butane (47% by weight of propane, 50% by weight of butane, 3% by weight of isobutane), resulting in a weight ratio of formulation to propellant gas of 92 to 8.
  • the agents were applied from the aerosol container as a foam and applied to the hair. Subsequently, the hair was brought into shape with the aid of a hot air curling iron.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des acides carboxyliques antéiso (C8 à C30) qui protègent les fibres contenant de la kératine de la chaleur et qui sont bien adaptés pour être utilisés dans le coiffage à chaud temporaire de fibres contenant de la kératine, en particulier de cheveux humains. Dans ce but, des produits cosmétiques ont été sélectionnés, qui contiennent, en plus d'au moins un acide carboxylique antéiso (C8 à C30), au moins une substance active raffermissante et qui se présentent en particulier sous forme de mousse. Il est ainsi possible d'obtenir un résultat de coiffage très durable, notamment avec une humidité de l'air importante.
PCT/EP2012/072257 2011-12-21 2012-11-09 Utilisation d'au moins un acide carboxylique antéiso (c8-c30) pour le coiffage à chaud résistant à l'humidité Ceased WO2013091994A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE201110089404 DE102011089404A1 (de) 2011-12-21 2011-12-21 Verwendung mindestens einer anteiso-(C8-C30)-Carbonsäure für feuchtigkeitsbeständiges Hitzestyling
DE102011089404.7 2011-12-21

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20190060198A1 (en) * 2017-08-29 2019-02-28 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa High-performance hair treatment agents with increased care effect
CN115023271A (zh) * 2020-01-21 2022-09-06 日本精化株式会社 毛发改善方法

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EP0743058A2 (fr) * 1995-05-19 1996-11-20 Kao Corporation Compositions pour les soins de cheveux contenant un dérivé d'acide gras
DE19738866A1 (de) 1997-09-05 1999-03-11 Henkel Kgaa Schaumarme Tensidmischungen mit Hydroxymischethern
WO2001072269A1 (fr) * 2000-03-29 2001-10-04 Croda, Inc. Acides gras quaternaires a base de composes ante-iso
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JP2007217359A (ja) * 2006-02-17 2007-08-30 Revanche:Kk 毛髪用乳化化粧料
WO2008009907A1 (fr) * 2006-07-19 2008-01-24 Croda International Plc Copolymères destinés à être utilisés dans le domaine de la coiffure
US20100172859A1 (en) * 2007-05-31 2010-07-08 Kao Corporation Two-part oxidative hair dye composition
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EP0743058A2 (fr) * 1995-05-19 1996-11-20 Kao Corporation Compositions pour les soins de cheveux contenant un dérivé d'acide gras
DE19738866A1 (de) 1997-09-05 1999-03-11 Henkel Kgaa Schaumarme Tensidmischungen mit Hydroxymischethern
WO2001072269A1 (fr) * 2000-03-29 2001-10-04 Croda, Inc. Acides gras quaternaires a base de composes ante-iso
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JP2007176923A (ja) * 2005-12-01 2007-07-12 Kao Corp 毛髪化粧料
JP2007217359A (ja) * 2006-02-17 2007-08-30 Revanche:Kk 毛髪用乳化化粧料
WO2008009907A1 (fr) * 2006-07-19 2008-01-24 Croda International Plc Copolymères destinés à être utilisés dans le domaine de la coiffure
US20100172859A1 (en) * 2007-05-31 2010-07-08 Kao Corporation Two-part oxidative hair dye composition
WO2010122286A2 (fr) * 2009-04-22 2010-10-28 Pz Cussons (International) Ltd Aérosol de protection thermique

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20190060198A1 (en) * 2017-08-29 2019-02-28 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa High-performance hair treatment agents with increased care effect
US11123275B2 (en) * 2017-08-29 2021-09-21 Henkel IP & Holding GmbH High-performance hair treatment agents with increased care effect
CN115023271A (zh) * 2020-01-21 2022-09-06 日本精化株式会社 毛发改善方法
CN115023271B (zh) * 2020-01-21 2024-01-30 日本精化株式会社 毛发改善方法

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