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WO2014095210A1 - Procédé de mise en forme thermique non agressive de fibres kératiniques - Google Patents

Procédé de mise en forme thermique non agressive de fibres kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014095210A1
WO2014095210A1 PCT/EP2013/074216 EP2013074216W WO2014095210A1 WO 2014095210 A1 WO2014095210 A1 WO 2014095210A1 EP 2013074216 W EP2013074216 W EP 2013074216W WO 2014095210 A1 WO2014095210 A1 WO 2014095210A1
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Prior art keywords
fibers
formula
fiber
structural unit
weight
Prior art date
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Ceased
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PCT/EP2013/074216
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Diane Metten
Bernd Richters
Rene Scheffler
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Publication of WO2014095210A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014095210A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of shaping keratinveni fibers.
  • keratin-containing fibers in principle all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair,
  • the invention is preferably used in the context of heat-assisted hair shaping, in particular the smoothing of curly human hair and wigs made therefrom.
  • Deformation of keratin-containing fibers is usually carried out by mechanically deforming the fiber and defining the deformation by suitable means. Before and / or after this deformation, the fiber is treated with at least one cosmetic preparation in order to fix the newly impressed form to the fiber collective.
  • keratin-containing chamfers are treated with keratin-reducing compounds.
  • the fiber is then treated with an oxidizing agent preparation in the so-called fixing step, rinsed and freed from the forming aids (e.g., winders, papillots) after or during the fusing step.
  • a mercaptan e.g. Ammonium thioglycolate
  • this part of the disulfide bridges of the keratin molecule cleaves to -SH groups, so that there is a softening of keratin fibers.
  • disulfide bridges are knotted in the hair keratin, so that the Keratinge Stahlge is fixed in the predetermined deformation.
  • hair fixatives are, for example, waxes or setting polymers.
  • the moist keratin-containing fibers are reformed, the mold is first mechanically fixed, then by applying heat to remove the water and additionally by restaging the hydrogen bonds within and between the keratin protein strands to accomplish a fixation of the new form.
  • the frizzy hair is wound in a corresponding process either on winder with a large diameter of usually more than 15 mm or the hair under the action, for example, a keratin-reducing composition combed smooth.
  • a smoothing board is usually rectangular boards, for example made of plastic.
  • the fiber is wetted with a liquid. Supporting the mechanically fixed in the new form fibers are subjected to a heat treatment, for example by a hot blower or contact with hot surfaces.
  • One way of hair straightening is to straighten with a hot iron.
  • the structure of the keratin-containing fiber changes upon heat treatment of the hair during smoothing (see R. McMullen et al., J. Cosmet., Sci., 1998, 49, 223-244). This change in fiber structure should be countered by appropriate measures or repaired afterwards.
  • the known forming methods especially in the case of smoothing, have the disadvantage that the keratin-containing fiber is charged electrostatically.
  • the deformation result of the known methods in terms of the degree of deformation and the uniformity of the deformation is in need of improvement. When an improvement in the degree of deformation is achieved, this is usually accompanied by an increased damage to the keratin-containing fiber.
  • the object of the invention is therefore to provide a heat-assisted forming process for keratin-containing fibers, in particular for human hair, which provides a very good shape fixation, maintains the fiber and protects the structure of the fiber from heat (heat protection).
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore the use of an active ingredient combination of (a) at least one nonionic polymer (a) having at least one structural unit of the formula (M1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  • R ' is a (d- to C 30 ) acyl group, in particular an acetyl group, and at least one cationic polymer (b) having at least one structural unit of the formula (M1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M4)
  • R " is a (Ci to C 4 ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, for the heat protection keratin braver fibers, the heat of a temperature of 80 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, especially preferably 100 ° C. to 250 ° C., more preferably 140 ° C. to 220 ° C.)
  • the heat source used is preferably a hot-air blower (for example in the embodiment as a hair dryer, hood or curling iron), a flat iron or a corrugated iron, a flat iron or a corrugated iron are particularly preferred heat sources.
  • the active ingredient combination used according to the invention contains the polymers (a) and (b) in a weight ratio range of 10: 1 to 1: 10, in particular 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3 preferably from 1.5 to 1 to 1 to 1.5.
  • Particularly suitable nonionic polymers (a) are in particular copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate.
  • the molar ratio of the structural units comprised of the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer comprised of the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular in the range from 30:70 to 60:40 , lies; for example, sold under the trademark Luviskol ® VA 37, Luviskol ® VA 55, Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73 from the firm BASF SE.
  • the cationic polymers (b) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1), (M3) and (M4) in the Copolymer result, at most 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the polymers (b) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1), (M3) and (M4).
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • a methosulfate is used to compensate for the positive charge of the copolymer, it is a very particularly preferred cationic polymer (b) N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymer, which according to INCI nomenclature is referred to as polyquaternium-46.
  • This polymer is available, for example, by BASF under the trade name Luviquat.RTM ® Hold.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain the polymers (a) in a total amount of from 0.01 to 9.99% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 7.75% by weight, very particularly from 0.5 to 4, 5 wt.%, Most preferably from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain the polymers (b) in a total amount of from 0.01 to 9.99% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 7.75% by weight, very particularly from 0.5 to 4, 5 wt.%, Most preferably from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain the active ingredient combination of the polymers (a) and (b) in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably of From 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more particularly from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, most preferably from 2.0 to 5.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the agents used according to the invention contain the polymers (a) and (b) in a weight ratio range of 10: 1 to 1: 10, more preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3 preferably from 1.5 to 1 to 1 to 1.5.
  • the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one cationic surfactant.
  • cationic surfactants selected from quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines or mixtures thereof are preferred.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride As cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethyl ammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
  • the cationic surfactants are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil
  • R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • w is a number from 1 to 20 .
  • Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
  • the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants.
  • nonionic surfactant C 12 -C 3 o- fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil contain.
  • the agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • ethylene oxide in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide
  • linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50 which are marketed as Eumulgin® CS 15 (COGNIS), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin® CS 50 (COGNIS).
  • compositions used according to the invention may further comprise the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.
  • auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.
  • a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used as a care material.
  • Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
  • Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Dimethicone copolyols form another group of silicones that are suitable. Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone.
  • the agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent particularly preferably contains at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • the protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in Quantities of 0.05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.
  • compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract
  • Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the mono- or oligosaccharides are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • the agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example:
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
  • Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, - fatty acid partial glycerides which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides.
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  • R, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q ) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total application preparation, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. %.
  • UV filters By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation.
  • the UV filters are usually in Men a gene of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the entire application preparation. Amounts of 0, 1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be desirable especially if only a temporary staining For example, with eye-catching fashion colors is desired, which can be removed by simple washing again from the keratinic fiber.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (ß- hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl
  • aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
  • the dyes which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c).
  • the cationic substantive dyes sold under the trademark Arianor® are also very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the agents according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors.
  • Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or under coupling with one or more coupler components, the actual dyes.
  • compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.
  • a second subject of the invention is a method for reshaping, in particular for smoothing, keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, in which
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, the active ingredient combination of the first subject of the invention (vide supra),
  • step (i) it is preferred in accordance with the invention to apply the agent in step (i) as a spray, i. to spray the agent in step (i) on the keratin-containing fibers. It is a pump spray or aerosol spray.
  • the fibers are formed with the aid of deformation aids
  • step (i) - deformed after, before or during step (i), and / or
  • auxiliary for a mechanical smoothing such as a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heated flat iron in case of hair straightening.
  • Mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean stretching of the curly fiber along its longest spatial extent.
  • step (ii) it is preferred, in the context of a hair straightening, to smooth the fibers mechanically during the contact time from step (ii), in particular by combing or with the aid of a smoothing board. If the shaping aids, for example winder, are attached to the fiber by means of a corrugated process for a longer period of time, it is expedient to remove these deformation aids after step (iv).
  • the keratin-containing fibers are moistened prior to step (i). This can be done by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably water.
  • a liquid preferably water.
  • the fibers are shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the terry step remains a noticeable residual moisture in the hair back.
  • reaction time of step (ii) is preferably 1-150 minutes, more preferably 1-60 minutes.
  • step (ii) it is preferred according to the invention to dry the fibers in step (ii) before the heat treatment of step (iii).
  • a dry keratin-containing fiber according to step (ii) of the method according to the invention is present when the water residues adhering to the hair have evaporated to such an extent that the hairs fall individually.
  • dry keratin fiber either the moisture content of the fiber is substantially in equilibrium with the humidity of the air, or the fiber absorbs moisture from the ambient air.
  • Such a dry fiber is preferably obtained by drying the wet fiber with hot air using a hair dryer.
  • step (ii) is preferably carried out if after step (ii) a heat treatment takes place in the context of a forming process in which the surface of the keratin-containing fibers is directly treated with a tempered surface of a forming aid (eg flat iron or corrugated iron) during a forming step ,
  • a heat treatment takes place in the context of a forming process in which the surface of the keratin-containing fibers is directly treated with a tempered surface of a forming aid (eg flat iron or corrugated iron) during a forming step
  • the fibers are subjected to a heat treatment with simultaneous deformation of the fiber at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, more preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C). more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C).
  • Simultaneous deformation means that during the heat treatment the fiber is transformed into a mold, e.g. by mechanical smoothing or fixing the shape by winder or papillotene, brought or held.
  • a heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the fiber at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, particularly preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C).
  • the heat treatment can be done with hot air. In this case, the fiber is heated during the combing exactly at the point where the mechanical smoothing takes place.
  • the heat treatment in the manner of smoothing with the aid of a so-called smoothing iron with corresponding tempered plates, in particular metal or ceramic plates takes place, in which the plate is pressed onto the fiber to be smoothed and the pressed onto the fiber plate is moved along the fiber.
  • the plates may optionally be coated with heat resistant materials.
  • the keratin-containing fiber to be smoothed is pressed between two appropriately tempered plates and both plates are simultaneously moved along the longest spatial extent of the fiber. It is again preferred that both plates are connected to each other, so that both plates can be moved uniformly along the fiber.
  • the fiber is attached to one end (hair root).
  • the plates in this case are preferably moved evenly away from the hair root along the entire fiber. This movement causes a mechanical smoothing of the fiber.
  • a suitable device for heat treatment for example, the device "Ceramic Fiat-Master” (sold by: Efalock, Germany) or Schwarzkopf Professional: Model No: IP30A.
  • the fibers are heat-treated under mechanical curling of the fiber in a step (iii) following step (ii) at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C , more preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C).
  • the heat treatment can be done with a hot air blower.
  • the fiber is wound around a corresponding hot air curling iron and heated precisely at the point where the Krausung occurs.
  • the fibers are wound on curlers as a deformation aid and heated with a hair dryer.
  • the fibers can be treated as part of a post-treatment at the end of the process according to the invention with a commercial conditioner.
  • R " is a (Ci to C 4 ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, for the heat protection keratin inconveniencer fibers, the heat of a temperature of 80 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, especially preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C) are exposed.
  • the heat source is a flat iron or corrugated iron.
  • nonionic polymer (a) is a polymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate.
  • the molar ratio of the structural units comprised of the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the nonionic polymer (a) contained in the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20 to 80 to 80 to 20, in particular in the range from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40, lies.
  • the cationic polymer (b) is the polymer with the INCI nomenclature Polyquarternium-46.
  • the active substance combination the polymers (a) and (b) in a weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 1 to 10, in particular from 5 to 1 to 1 to 5, particularly preferably from 3 to 1 to 1 to 3, most preferably from 1.5 to 1 to 1 to 1.5 contains.
  • step (iii) a heat treatment with simultaneous deformation of the fiber at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, particularly preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C) are subjected.
  • Method characterized in that in the course of a hair straightening the fibers in step (iii) a heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the fiber at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, more preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C), wherein the heat treatment in the manner of smoothing with the aid of a so-called smoothing iron with appropriately tempered plates, in particular metal or ceramic plates takes place, in the plate is pressed onto the fiber to be smoothed and the pressed onto the fiber plate is moved along the fiber.
  • a heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the fiber at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, more preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C)
  • Method according to one of the items 9 to 1 characterized in that the active substance combination of the polymers (a) and (b) preferably in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 8 , 0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1, 0 to 5.0 wt.%, Most preferably 2.0 to 5.0 wt.%, Each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the cosmetic agent of the step (i ) is included.
  • step (i) is sprayed onto the keratin-containing fibers.
  • the following cosmetic agent was prepared by mixing the components.
  • composition marked E is according to the invention, the compositions marked V are not according to the invention.
  • Thermoanalytical investigations are particularly suitable for the characterization of two-phase systems, to which the human hairs are also included as fiber keratins with their crystalline a-helix portion and amorphous matrix portion.
  • glass transition and aging behavior of the amorphous matrix can be investigated; on the other hand, the melting behavior of the crystalline, helical phase provides important insights.
  • Thermoanalytical investigations are first described in 1899, first differential thermoanalysis (DTA) on protein fibers was carried out in the late fifties.
  • DTA differential thermoanalysis
  • thermoanalytical measuring methods such as DTA, HP-DTA (High Pressure, High Pressure DTA) and DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), have been applied to keratin fibers, for example the phenomenon of supercontraction, ⁇ - ⁇ - to investigate phase transitions of helices or denaturation processes.
  • HP-DSC method was used to study keratin fibers, which eliminates the problems of pyrolytic effects found in conventional DSC and problems with data acquisition and interpretation inherent in DTA.
  • DSC measurements are carried out on keratins enclosed with water in commercially available, pressure-tight measuring capsules.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimetry
  • structural as well as chemical conditions and changes in fiber keratins and especially in human hair can be detected.
  • the calorimetric detectable processes using thermograms and with respect to the Peaklagen, structures and surfaces as an indicator for the influence of order-disorder transitions by changes in internal and / or external parameters, cause z.
  • a flat iron (brand: Schwarzkopf Professional, Model No: IP30A) was heated at the highest level (210 ° C) for at least 10 minutes.
  • the temperature between the heating plates measured with a contact thermometer (brand: Qtemp 300) was 180 ° C after 10 minutes.
  • the hair strand was cooled in the air to room temperature, rinsed with water for about 1 minute (water temperature about 35 to 39 ° C), excess water removed with a finger and dabbed dry with a towel, hung up and left to rest and allowed to dry.
  • This treatment was repeated 40 times for each strand.
  • thermoanalytical investigations (DSC apparatus: Perkin Elmer DSC 7, 60 ⁇ stainless steel crucible with O-ring (24 atm)) was then tested for structural stabilization by the test compositions after repeated heat application. Each strand was divided into parts of approx. 1 mm each. Twelve of these aliquots of the same tress were placed in a DSC measuring crucible and 50 ⁇ l bidistilled water added. The measuring crucibles were closed and the sample measured in a temperature range of 100 ° C to 170 ° C (heating rate: 10 Kelvin per minute).
  • the untreated starting hair is also subjected to a DSC measurement.
  • the keratin melting point of the E1 treated strands is significantly higher than the fibers treated with the non-inventive test compositions.

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Abstract

Association de principes actifs contenant (a) au moins un polymère (a) non ionique, présentant au moins un motif constitutif de formule (M1) et au moins un motif constitutif de formule (M2), R' représentant un groupe acyle (C1- à C30), notamment un groupe acétyle, au moins un polymère (b) cationique, présentant au moins un motif constitutif de formule (M1), au moins un motif constitutif de formule (M3) et au moins un motif constitutif de formule (M4), R" signifiant un groupe alkyle (C1 à C4), notamment un groupe méthyle. Cette association de principes actifs fournit une protection thermique de fibres kératiniques qui sont soumises à des températures de 80°C à 350°C (de préférence de 80°C à 280°C, plus préférentiellement de 100°C à 250°C, mieux encore de 140°C à 220°C). L'action se déploie notamment pendant le traitement thermique. L'association de principes actifs est particulièrement adaptée à une utilisation avec des fers lissants. L'association de principes actifs selon l'invention se trouve alors sur les fibres kératiniques pendant le traitement thermique.
PCT/EP2013/074216 2012-12-19 2013-11-20 Procédé de mise en forme thermique non agressive de fibres kératiniques Ceased WO2014095210A1 (fr)

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EP0998908A2 (fr) 1998-11-04 2000-05-10 L'oreal Composition tinctoriale contenant un colorant direct cationique et une pyrazolo-(1,5-a)-pyrimidine à titre de base d'oxydation, et procédés de teinture
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WO2023180433A1 (fr) 2022-03-24 2023-09-28 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Utilisation en cosmétique de polyfarnésènes partiellement ou totalement hydrogénés et procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux
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FR3159316A1 (fr) 2022-03-24 2025-08-22 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouvelles émulsions protectrices des cheveux contre la chaleur intense

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