RU2170570C1 - Composition for hair washing - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology. SUBSTANCE: invention relates to agents used for hair washing. Composition for hair washing has the following components: sodium laurate sulfate, amphotheric surface-active substances, ДЭА-cocamide, overgreasing addition, conditioning addition, food sodium chloride, citric acid, preserving agent, perfume composition, water. Composition has additionally herbal extracts, propylene glycol, vitamins, Trilon B, dyes. After washing with proposed composition hair show good combing, stacking, they became soft, silky and brilliance. EFFECT: improved quality and properties of composition. 5 cl, 2 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and relates to means for washing hair.

 A known composition for washing and treating hair and skin, a method of washing and conditioning hair [1] of the French company L'Oreal. The shampoo contains sodium laureth sulfate - 8-10%, cocobetaine or a mixture of cocoylamidopropyl betaine and glycerol monolaurate 3-4%, ceramide A - 0.1-0.2%, polyquaternium 10-0.5%, preservatives, flavoring agent, water.

 The closest in composition to the claimed composition is a foaming agent [2] for washing hair, containing, wt.%: Anionic surfactant - sodium lauryl sulfate, ethoxylated 6.00-15.00; mother-of-pearl additive - a composition of sodium lauryl sulfate, ethylene glycol distearate and coconut oil monoethanolamide 0.50-5.00; amphoteric surfactant - alkylamidopropyl betaine 1.00-5.00; nonionic surfactant - diethanolamides of coconut oil fatty acids 1.00-4.00; superfood supplement - refined coconut oil 0.20-1.00; conditioning additive - hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.30-1.00; sodium chloride 0.50-3.00; citric acid or phosphoric acid 0.05-0.20; preservative 0.05-0.20; perfume 0.50-1.50; water the rest.

 The inventive composition for washing hair contains an anionic surfactant - sodium laureth sulfate, as amphoteric surfactants - cocamidopropyl betaine or sodium cocoamphoacetate; nonionic surfactant - diethanolamides of coconut oil fatty acids; PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and / or PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil as a solubilizing and overheating additive; as a conditioning additive - polyquaternium-10; herbal extracts; vitamins; Trilon B; sodium chloride; citric acid; preservative; perfume and water.

 The difference of the claimed composition for washing hair from the prototype (see table. 1).

 The inventive composition for washing hair containing sodium laureth sulfate, amphoteric surfactants, cocamide DEA, a fattening supplement, conditioning additive, table salt, citric acid, preservative, perfume composition, drinking water, characterized in that it additionally contains extracts of herbs, propylene glycol, vitamins, Trilon B, dyes; as amphoteric surfactants it contains cocamidopropyl betaine or sodium cocoamphoacetate; as an excess agent it contains PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and / or PEG-40 hydrogenated castors boiled oil, as a conditioning additive - polyquaternium-10.

 We give a description of the main raw materials used.

R - жирные кислоты кокосового масла
Кокоамфоацетат - торговые марки: Dehyton G (Henkel) и REWOTERIC AM C (Goldschmidt).Anionic surfactant sodium laureth sulfate. Trademarks: Texapon N 70 (Henkel) and Genapol LRO Paste (Hoechst) - raw materials for detergents with high foaming properties in both hard and soft water
[PO- (CH ₂ —CH ₂ —O) ₂ —SO ₃ ] ^- Na ⁺
R = C ₁₂ / C ₁₄
Amphoteric surfactants - cocamidopropyl betaine or sodium cocoamphoacetate. Trademarks: Dehyton K (Henkel) and Genagen CAB (Hoechst)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine

R - Coconut Oil Fatty Acids
Cocoamphoacetate are trademarks: Dehyton G (Henkel) and REWOTERIC AM C (Goldschmidt).

R - жирные кислоты кокосового масла
Кокамидопропилбетаин и кокоамфоацетат - поверхностно-активные вещества, увеличивающие вязкость системы и хорошо совместимые с кожей, особенно в сочетании с анионоактивными ПАВ.

R - Coconut Oil Fatty Acids
Cocamidopropylbetaine and cocoamphoacetate are surfactants that increase the viscosity of the system and are well compatible with the skin, especially in combination with anionic surfactants.

 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and / or PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are used as extinguishing and solubilizing additives.

 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, trademarks: Cetiol HE (Henkel) or REWODERM ES 90 (Goldschmidt).

Прозрачное светло-желтое гидрофильное масло с легким специфическим запахом. Преимущественно используется в качестве пережиривающего компонента в поверхностно-активных очищающих препаратах и в качестве солюбилизатора эфирных масел и других активных агентов.

Transparent light yellow hydrophilic oil with a slight specific odor. It is mainly used as an extinguishing component in surface-active cleansing preparations and as a solubilizer of essential oils and other active agents.

 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. Trademarks: Cremophor RH 40 (BASF) or TAGAT R40 (Goldschmidt).

 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil - a non-ionic solvent emulsifier - is used to solubilize perfume compositions and other low-polar substances in water, as well as water-alcohol solutions.

As a conditioning additive, Ucare Polymers (Amerchol) or no CTFA - Polyquaternium-10 is used.
[(C ₆ H ₉ O ₅ ) (C ₂ H ₄ O) • (C ₃ H ₆ O - N (CH ₃ ) ₃ Cl) _y ] _n
Ucare Polymers belong to the category of cationic water-soluble conditioning additives and are suitable for all types of hair and skin. Highly versatile, they are compatible with a wide range of anionic, amphoteric, nonionic or cationic systems and are suitable for all types of air conditioners.

The basic composition of the claimed composition for washing hair includes:
- anionic surfactant - sodium laureth sulfate;
- amphoteric surfactant - cocamidopropyl betaine;
- nonionic surfactant - cocamide DEA;
- cationic conditioning additive - polyquaternium-10:
- a solubilizer and a supernatant - PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and / or PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

 The created neutral base of shampoos gently washes hair and has a beneficial effect on the scalp.

Using various combinations of vitamins, extracts or plant oils allows you to create targeted shampoos:
- for dry hair;
- for oily hair;
- for weakened hair;
- for frequent washing of hair;
- for normal hair.

 In the composition for dry hair, the composition of the excess additives is enhanced: in addition to PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate is also used. Chamomile extract and jojoba oil were introduced as dietary supplements. Jojoba oil nourishes dry hair, returns them elasticity, silkiness and shine. Hydrogenated castor oil helps strengthen hair and restores lost fat balance. The chamomile extract introduced into the shampoo gives the hair softness, splendor and has an anti-inflammatory effect on the scalp.

 Chamomile (flowers) - (water-alcohol and water-alcohol-glycerol extracts are used) contains essential oil, which includes chamazulene, terpene, sesquiterpene, sesquiterpene alcohols, cadinene, caprylic, nonyl, antimis and isovaleric acid. The action of chamomile preparations is due to a complex of substances - especially chamazulen and matricin, chamazulen has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect, it enhances regenerative processes, weakens allergic reactions and has a local anesthetic effect.

 Jojoba oil is a functional ingredient in hair and scalp care products. In many people, problems with the scalp occur due to the gradual formation of coarsening, which interferes with the respiration of the hair follicles and can lead to some types of peeling. If these gradually accumulating coarsening is not removed, then they can ultimately interfere with the functioning of hair follicles. This will lead to the loss of the hair shaft and, ultimately, to the death of the follicle. Jojoba oil quickly penetrates the scalp and hair shaft, loosening and dissolving coarsening. The scalp and hair follicles remain clean and free, continue to function normally. Jojoba oil is an excellent dirt-dissolving agent that can remove adherence from many modern hair products, and especially spray products.

 Jojoba oil makes hair clean and soft, exhibits a unique keratoplastic effect that makes hair flicker, reveals its natural color shade, gives it shine.

 Vitamin PP, nettle and licorice root extracts have been added to oily hair shampoo. Vitamin PP and nettle extract heal the scalp, prevent hair loss and improve hair growth. Licorice root has an anti-inflammatory effect. The combination of these components removes excessive oily hair and keeps the scalp in a comfortable state.

Vitamin PP (Nicotinic Acid and Nicotinamide)
Vitamin PP deficiency in humans leads to the development of pellagra (rough skin). Nicotinic acid and its amide are specific antipellagric agents, and therefore they are designated as vitamin PP ("Pellagra-Preventive" Italian. - warning pellagra). Their use, especially in the early stages of the disease, leads to the disappearance of the phenomena of pellagra [3].

 Niacin also has a vasodilating effect.

 Nettle - (water-alcohol and water-alcohol-glycerin extracts are used).

Vitamins C, K, B ₁ , pantothenic acid, as well as carotenoids, iron salts, calcium, potassium, sugar, sulfur, and wax were found in nettle leaves. An infusion of leaves is used to strengthen and improve hair growth [4].

Licorice (root) - (water-alcohol and water-alcohol-glycerin extracts are used)
The most important part of licorice root is glycosirrhizin glycoside, which is mainly in the form of potassium and calcium salts. Glycyrrhitic acid is close in chemical structure to steroid hormones and has an anti-inflammatory effect.

 In some cases, glycyrrhitic acid has the same effect as deoxycorticosterone and cortisone; it is successfully used for skin diseases, getting the same results as from hydrocortisone [5].

 Shampoo for weakened hair contains vitamin E and henna extract, which protect the scalp from drying out, strengthen and nourish the hair roots, enhance their growth and give them shine. Hair loss decreases and dandruff stops.

Vitamin E (tocopherol acetate) - 100%
Vitamin E is a natural antioxidant (antioxidant). It protects various substances from oxidative changes. Participates in the biosynthesis of heme and proteins, cell proliferation, tissue respiration and other major processes of cellular metabolism.

 There is evidence of the effectiveness of tocopherol in some dermatoses, psoriasis, and spasms of peripheral vessels [6]. Vitamin E nourishes the hair, gives it shine and protects the scalp from overdrying.

Henna - (water-alcohol infusion, water-alcohol, water-alcohol-glycerin and propylene glycol extracts are used)
With regular use of henna, the condition of the hair and scalp improves, the roots of the hair strengthen, their growth intensifies, hair loss decreases and the formation of dandruff stops. Hair acquire shine, elasticity, comb well [7].

 Shampoo for frequent washing contains aloe extract, which increases the tolerance (endurance) of the skin, subjected to frequent washing, removes the feeling of tightness, softens and moisturizes the scalp. A film is formed on the hair that promotes prolonged hair nutrition with vitamins contained in aloe extract.

Aloe as a medicinal plant has been known since biblical times. In medicine, a translucent jelly-like substance located under the skin of a plant is used. Aloe vera extract in propylene glycol is used in the production of shampoo. The main active components of Aloe vera gel are carbohydrates (simple sugars and polysaccharides), amino acids, trace elements (calcium, chromium, copper, iron, magnesium, manganese, potassium, sodium, zinc), salicylic and ascorbic acids, tocopherols, saponins, steroids, vitamins : A (retinol), B ₁ (thiamine), B ₂ (riboflavin), B ₃ (pantothenic acid), B ₉ (folic acid), B ₁₂ (cyanocobalamin); carotene.

 It is polysaccharides that make aloe a valuable raw material for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. The presence of polysaccharides explains the emollient, moisturizing, film-forming, regenerating and wound healing properties of Aloe vera gel [8].

 In dermatology, aloe juice is used orally or parenterally for skin tuberculosis, alopecia, scleroderma; externally in cosmetics for the prevention and treatment of premature withering of the skin of the face, neck; with baldness, rubbed into the roots of the hair [9].

 Clinical trials have shown that aloe emulsion increases the tolerance (endurance) of the skin subjected to x-ray mass irradiation, and almost completely relieves pain, burning sensation and tightness, and is also a good therapeutic agent for various skin diseases [10].

The provitamin B ₅ , linden and lemon balm extracts are included in the shampoo for normal hair. Melissa cheers up, encourages, relieves fatigue. The combination of provitamin B ₅ with vitamin C, carotene, contained in the linden flower extract, improves hair growth, gives it a healthy shine and improves combability.

Provitamin B ₅ (panthenol) is used for various pathological conditions associated with metabolic disorders, eczema, allergic reactions, and circulatory failure. Provitamin B ₅ stimulates cellular regeneration and helps in tissue repair, promotes normal keratinization, and acts as an anti-inflammatory agent. Due to this, provitamin B ₅ improves hair growth, gives a healthy shine to hair and improves combing. It has a healing and moisturizing effect.

 Melissa - (water-alcohol or water-alcohol-glycerin extracts are used). In folk medicine, lemon balm has long been known as a sedative, anticonvulsant, painkiller for skin rashes [11]. It is used in the treatment of hypertension, anemia, headache. Thanks to its unique calming properties, lemon balm cheers up, invigorates, relieves pain and fatigue.

 Linden (flowers) - (water-alcohol and water-alcohol-glycerin extracts are used). Linden flowers contain essential oil, which includes vitamin C, carotene, sugar, tannins and bitter substances. Leaves contain tiliadin with phytoncide activity, ascorbic acid, carotene. Linden color is used for hair loss [12].

Dyes
Based on Instruction 76/768 / EEC June 1991 Appendix IV - Part 1 All dyes used in shampoos are approved for use in cosmetics. The nomenclature of dyes is indicated in accordance with the international catalog Color Index (CI) 14270, 14720, 15985, 16185, 16255, 19140, 42051, 42090, 47005, 74180. We give the composition of shampoos for five examples (see table. 2).

The technology of obtaining compositions for washing hair
Shampoos (examples 1-4) are prepared according to one technology: water and polyquaternium-10 are loaded into the reactor. Heated to 45-50 ^o C and stirred until complete dissolution of polyquaternium-10.

 After that, water and sodium laureth sulfate are added, then sodium chloride.

 After complete dissolution of the feed, cocamide DEA is charged.

At a temperature of 35-40 ^° C. cocamidopropyl betaine, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and / or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, vitamins, herbal extracts, Trilon B, citric acid are charged into the reactor. Then, as cooling, the perfume composition, preservative, and dye solution are added.

 Shampoo (example 5) is prepared as follows: water and sodium laureth sulfate, then sodium chloride, are loaded into the reactor.

 After complete dissolution of the feed, cocamide DEA is charged.

At a temperature of 35-40 ^o C in the reactor load provitamin B ₅ , herbal extracts, Trilon B, citric acid. Then, as cooling, the perfume composition, preservative, and dye solution are added.

 The finished mass is analyzed for compliance with regulatory requirements.

 Upon receipt of the analysis results, the mass is pumped into the collection and transferred to the packaging.

 Experimental batches of shampoos have been developed.

 All of the claimed compositions for washing hair have passed experimental and clinical trials in the Scientific and Practical Association "Cosmetology" of the Ministry of Health of the Russian Federation and in the test laboratory center of the "Institute of Beauty".

 Experimental studies were performed on laboratory animals. The irritating and allergenic effect of shampoos, subacute toxicity with prolonged skin application, the effect on the morphological structures of the skin and liver, hair structure have been studied.

 As a result of tests, it was found that shampoos are harmless drugs. No irritating and allergenic effect of the preparations on the skin of animals, toxic effects on the body were found: the experimental animals did not lag behind the control in weight, they were active, mobile, had a good appetite, and a thick shiny coat.

 The preparations did not adversely affect the morphological structures of the skin and liver, and the hair structure.

 Clinical trials were conducted on 20 clinically healthy individuals without a burdened allergic history at the age of 19 to 57 years. Shampoos were used 1-2 times a week for a month. Shampoo for frequent washing was used daily. Clinical trials made it possible to establish that the shampoos tested have good foaming properties, do not irritate the skin of patients, do not cause allergic reactions, and do not violate the microstructure of the hair.

 After washing, the hair is combed well and styled in a hairstyle, it becomes soft, silky, shiny. In addition, the study of the structure of hair under the influence of shampoos did not reveal their damaging effect on the cuticle.

Literature
1. Pat. FR cl. 6 A 61 K 7/075, 7/06, N 2127580, publ. 03/20/99 Bull. N 8.

 2. Pat. RF class 6 A 61 K 7/08, N 2122398, publ. 11/27/98 Bull. N 33.

 3. M.D. Mashkovsky "Medicines", ed. "Medicine", M., 1993, vol. II, p. 30-31.

 4. B. G. Volynsky et al. "Plants in Medicine", ed. Saratov University, 1989, p. 291-293.

 5. B. G. Volynsky et al. "Plants in Medicine", ed. Saratov University, 1989, p. 108-109.

 6. M.D. Mashkovsky "Medicines", ed. "Medicine", M., 1993, vol. II, p. 34-35.

 7. A.L. Wojciechowska, I.I. Wolfenzon "Cosmetics today", M., "Chemistry", 1991, p. 80-81.

 8. Magazine "Cosmetics and medicine". Ed. KLAVEL Firm LLC, M., 1/99, p. 17-23.

 9. Berry V.S. "Herbal medicine in dermatology and cosmetics", Ed. "Health", Kiev, 1987, p. 14.

 10. Obukhov A.N. "Medicinal plants, raw materials and preparations", Ed. 5th, Krasnodar, book ed., 1965, p. 42.

 11. B. G. Volynsky et al. "Plants in Medicine", ed. Saratov University, 1989, p. 54-55.

 12. B. G. Volynsky et al. "Plants in Medicine", ed. Saratov University, 1989, p. 258-260.

Claims (5)

 1. Composition for washing hair, containing sodium laureth sulfate, amphoteric surfactants, DEA cocamide, an extinguishing additive, conditioning additive, edible salt, citric acid, preservative, perfume composition, drinking water, characterized in that it additionally contains extracts of herbs, propylene glycol, vitamins , Trilon B, dyes, as amphoteric surfactants it contains cocamidopropylbetaine or sodium cocoamphoacetate (in terms of 100%), as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and / or PEG-40 hydrogenated e castor oil as a conditioning agent - Polyquaternium-10.  2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the herbal extracts are selected from the group consisting of water-alcohol or water-alcohol-glycerin extracts of chamomile (flowers and leaves), nettle, licorice root, henna, lemon balm, linden (flowers) or a water-alcohol infusion of henna, or a propylene extract of henna, or an aloe extract in propylene glycol, or jojoba oil. 3. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the vitamins are selected from the group consisting of vitamins E, PP, provitamin B ₅ .  4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the dyes are selected from the group consisting of C.I. 14270, 14720, 15985, 16185, 16255, 19140, 42051, 42090, 47005, 74180. 5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains by weight: sodium sulfate (in terms of 100%) of 6.00 - 14.00%, cocamidopropyl betaine or sodium cocoamphoacetate (in terms of 100%) not more than 3.00%, DEA cocamide 0.30 - 4.00%, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil no more than 1.00%, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate no more than 2.00%, polyquaternium-10 no more than 0.50 %, water-alcohol extract of chamomile (flowers and leaves) or water-alcohol-glycerin extract of chamomile (flowers and leaves) no more than 1.00%, jojoba oil no more than 0.20%, propylene glycol no more than 1.00%, water alcohol extract kr beer or water-alcohol-glycerin extract of nettle no more than 2.00%, water-alcohol extract of licorice root or water-alcohol-glycerin extract of licorice no more than 1.00%, water-alcohol extract of henna, or water-alcohol extract of henna or henna water-alcohol extract or henna water-alcohol-glycerin henna extract or henna propylene glycol extract no more than 3.00%, aloe vera extract in propylene glycol no more than 1.50%, water-alcohol lemon balm extract or water-alcohol-glycerin lemon balm extract not more than 1.00%, hydroalcoholic linden extract (flowers) or bottom-alcoholic-glyceric extract of linden (flowers) not more than 1.00%, no more vitamin PP 1.00% tocopherol acetate is not more than 0.05%, provitamin B ₅ is not more than 3.00%, no more Trilon B 0 , 50%, edible salt 1.00 - 4.50%, citric acid 0.01 - 0.60%, preservative 0.05 - 1.00%, perfume composition 0.10 - 1.00%, water drinking - the rest, dyes - not more than 10 g / t.

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