RU2848615C1 - Cosmetic mask against hair loss based on processed essential oil and oil raw materials - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics; cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to hair care products. A cosmetic mask against hair loss contains, by mass percentage: aqueous extract of mustard meal – 4.5-5.5; mustard oil – 1.0-2.0; linseed oil – 1.0-2.0; burdock oil – 1.5-2.5; cocoa butter – 0.5-1.5; coconut oil – 0.5-1.5; castor oil – 0.5-1.5; sea buckthorn oil – 1.0-2.0; glycerin – 1.0-3.0; aloe vera gel – 2.0-4.0; D-panthenol – 0.4-1.0; raspberry ketone – 0.2-0.8; emulsifiers – 10.4-11.6; preservative – 0.8-1.2; mint or rosemary essential oil – 0.3-0.4; mint or rosemary hydrolate – the rest.

EFFECT: prevents hair loss and stimulates hair growth.

3 cl, 5 tbl, 2 ex

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and cosmetology and is a cosmetic mask based on the processed products of essential oil and oilseed raw materials, designed to prevent hair loss and stimulate hair growth, and to help strengthen hair follicles.

Hair loss, or alopecia, is currently a widespread problem among the population. Alopecia is the pathological partial or complete loss of hair on the scalp, face, and/or other areas of the body, caused by damage to the hair follicles. Causes of hair loss include the consequences of a previous coronavirus infection and the negative impact of environmental factors on hair, such as ultraviolet radiation, wind, and humidity. Given the need to address this problem, the use of products aimed at preventing hair loss and stimulating hair growth is essential.

Chemical preparations such as minoxidil (https://www. rlsnet.ru/active-substance/minoksidil-1161), aminexil (https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Аминексил), and stemoxidine (https://www.rmj.ru/news/stemoksidin_pervaya_ aktivnaya_molekula_sposobnaya_probudit_spyashchie_volosyanye_follikuly/) are known to have proven effectiveness in the treatment of alopecia. The disadvantage of these agents is that a course of treatment is required, they are not suitable for all patients, and they can cause allergies.

A hair growth stimulant containing dimethyl sulfoxide (DMS) and a fatty base is known. The fatty base is a mixture of burdock and castor oils, vitamin A and E oils, and a vitamin _B6 solution (patent RU 2265432 C1; IPC A61K 7/06; published 10.12.2005, Bulletin No. 34). A disadvantage of this invention is that the mixture of components can only be used immediately after preparation and is not intended for long-term storage. Use of the DMS solution may cause an allergic reaction.

The HeadDress serum concentrate is known for intensive hair loss, containing hydrolyzed lupine proteins, extracts of leuzea, ginkgo biloba, nettle, burdock, rosemary, mint, orange, red pepper oil extract, coconut oil, sweet almond oil, bergamot essential oil, aloe vera gel, propylene glycol, panthenol, citric acid, benzyl alcohol, geraniol, citronellol, limonene, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Cetrimonium Chloride, Decet-7, Sodium Mannuronate Methylsilanol, PEG-40, hydrolyzed castor oil, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance, Methylchlorisotiazolinone, Methylisotiazolinone (https://irecommend.ru/content/syvorotka-kontsentrat-headdress-pri-intensivnom-vypadenii-volos). The disadvantage of this serum is its multi-component composition and the use of components in this product that can cause allergic reactions.

Mustard is commonly used as an ingredient in masks for hair loss and hair growth. It improves scalp circulation, accelerates metabolism, and awakens dormant hair follicles, which helps reduce hair loss and stimulate new growth. Mustard is often included in masks in powder form. This has several drawbacks, as it requires mixing with something (water, oils, sour cream, etc.), and it can be difficult to wash out of the scalp and hair. For example, some anti-hair loss masks contain mustard powder, yeast, sugar, honey, gelatin, and dairy products (https://lovelyhair.org/sredstva-dlja-volos/maski/gorchichnye-m/g-m-ot-vypadeniya-volos.html). The disadvantages of these masks include difficulty in preparation and application, a short shelf life, and the use of products that can cause an allergic reaction when combined with mustard powder.

The DNC Mustard Hair Mask (https://www.letu.ru/product/dnc-maska-dlya-bystrogo-rosta-volos-gorchitsa/90300032) is well-known for its rapid hair growth. It contains Brassica Juncea (Mustard), Seeds Powder, Kaolin, Egg Protein, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Achillea Millefolium, Chelidonium majus, Urtica dioica Leaf, Thymus Serpyllum, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, and Aloe Barbadensis Extract. This product is available in powder form; add water and stir before use. The disadvantages of this invention are the inconvenience of use, the long absence of results, and a strong burning sensation, which makes it impossible for people with sensitive scalp to use.

The objective of the invention is to expand the range of natural hair care products and create an anti-hair loss product using processed oil and essential oil raw materials.

The technical result of the invention is the production of a hair care product with high consumer properties, helping to prevent excessive hair loss and stimulate hair growth, the action of which is due to the use of a complex of natural components of plant origin, among which the main role is played by products of processing oil and essential oil raw materials.

The technical result is achieved by the proposed cosmetic mask against hair loss, containing an aqueous extract of mustard cake, mustard oil, linseed oil, burdock oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn oil, glycerin, aloe vera gel, D-panthenol, raspberry ketone, emulsifiers, a preservative, as well as essential oil and hydrolate in the following ratio of components, wt. %:

Aqueous extract of mustard cake 4.5-5.5

Mustard oil 1.0-2.0 Linseed oil 1.0-2.0 Burdock oil 1.5-2.5 Cocoa butter 0.5-1.5 Coconut oil 0.5-1.5

Castor oil 0.5-1.5 Sea buckthorn oil 1.0-2.0

Glycerol 1.0-3.0

Aloe vera gel 2.0-4.0

D-panthenol0, D-panthenol 0.4-1.0

Raspberry ketone 0.2-0.8 Emulsifiers 10.4-11.6

Preservative 0.8-1.2

Essential oil 0.3-0.4

Hydrolat rest,

In this case, essential oil and hydrolate of mint or essential oil and hydrolate of rosemary are used as essential oil and hydrolate.

The mask may contain BTMS emulsifier and Olivem 1000 emulsifier as emulsifiers in the following ratio of components, wt. %: BTMS emulsifier - 5.7-6.3; Olivem 1000 emulsifier - 4.7-5.3. Sharomix 708 may be used as a preservative.

The combination of processed oilseed and essential oil products, along with other plant oils and active ingredients in the recommended proportions, ensures a balanced composition and superior performance. The mask is a smooth, creamy mass with the pleasant scent of the essential oil. It applies, spreads, and rinses easily. Thanks to the use of natural ingredients that provide a high content of biologically active substances, it has an active effect on the hair and scalp, ensuring effective results.

The proposed cosmetic mask contains the following processed oilseed products: aqueous extract from mustard cake, mustard oil and linseed oil.

An aqueous extract of crushed mustard seed cake is obtained through a cold extraction process. It offers the following properties: ease of use – it can be used as an active ingredient in cosmetics; contains vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that help improve circulation, stimulate hair growth, eliminate dandruff, and alleviate oily skin; and has a more gentle effect.

Using an aqueous extract from mustard seed cake allows for more complete utilization of the processed raw material. It also ensures waste-free production, as after extracting the fatty oil, the cake will not be disposed of, but will instead be used to extract an additional active ingredient for cosmetics.

Mustard oil is a vegetable oil made from mustard seeds. Mustard oil is obtained by pressing or extracting the seeds. Mustard oil is an affordable and readily available plant-based source of essential omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. It also contains vitamins A, E, B, and D, a deficiency of which immediately affects the condition of the hair. Mustard oil has numerous beneficial properties: it prevents premature graying, nourishes hair follicles with nutrients, prevents hair loss, improves scalp circulation, and adds shine, elasticity, and bounce. The oil's antifungal properties effectively prevent dandruff.

Flaxseed oil is a vegetable oil obtained by cold-pressing flax seeds. It contains a high content of unsaturated fatty acids: 44-61% alpha-linolenic acid (Omega-3), 15-30% linoleic acid (Omega-6), 13-29% oleic acid (Omega-9), a significant amount of tocopherols (vitamin E), folic acid, and estrogen-like phytohormones (lignans). Flaxseed oil saturates hair follicles with biologically active substances, helps prevent hair loss and eliminate dandruff, stimulates new hair growth, and relieves scalp dryness and flaking.

The processed products of essential oil raw materials used in the composition are essential oils of mint or rosemary and the hydrolates obtained during their production, which contain a small amount of essential oils and aromatic substances characteristic of the source plant dissolved in water, and also contain flavonoids, phytosterols, phenols, waxes, amino acids and other active components.

Mint and rosemary hydrosols are traditional hair care products that promote hair growth and reduce oiliness, strengthen hair follicles, and eliminate dandruff.

Mint/rosemary hydrosols are used in the cosmetic mask as the aqueous phase, with a content of 59.5-74.4%. This significantly enriches the product with biologically active substances contained in the essential oil crops used.

Peppermint hydrosol is a natural product obtained through steam distillation of peppermint leaves. The main component of the plant from which the hydrosol is derived is menthol. Menthol has a tonic effect, dilates blood vessels, and increases blood flow, which is essential for hair growth and strengthening. Menthol also has a cooling effect, which relieves itching, soothes the scalp, and creates a feeling of freshness after use. Vitamins B, C, and provitamin A contained in mint strengthen capillaries, activate dormant hair follicles, promote skin cell respiration, help maintain hair moisture, and support its barrier function, protecting hair from damage.

Rosemary hydrosol is a product of steam distillation of young flowering shoots. Rosemary hydrosol contains vitamins A, C, and E, minerals, antioxidants, organic acids, and essential oils, which promote the growth of new hair follicles and strengthen them, making hair thicker and shinier. It can also be used to regulate excess oiliness or dryness of the scalp.

Peppermint essential oil is a product of steam distillation of the aerial parts of the peppermint plant. It is one of the most popular and proven essential oils for hair growth. The main components of peppermint essential oil are menthol, menthone, menthyl acetate, and menthofuran. Peppermint's stimulating properties dilate blood vessels and improve blood flow, which in turn facilitates the further penetration of essential antioxidants and nutrients to the hair follicles. Peppermint essential oil also has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antifungal properties, as well as antioxidant activity. Therefore, peppermint not only helps restore hair thickness but is also effective in preventing and relieving dandruff, dermatitis, burning, and itching.

Rosemary essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the plant's young flowering shoots. The main components of rosemary essential oil are α- and β-pinene, camphene, borneol, 1,8-cineole, and camphor.

Rosemary essential oil has a unique set of properties applicable to the scalp and hair:

- improves blood circulation, which increases the nutrition of the hair follicles, reduces hair loss, activates growth, improves hair structure, and adds shine and strength;

- antimicrobial action is directed against dandruff pathogens;

- antioxidant - reduces oxidative stress, improves metabolic processes in the skin and follicles;

- anti-inflammatory, analgesic - reduces itching and inflammation, which also works to strengthen hair.

Scientific studies show that rosemary essential oil is as effective against hair loss as minoxidil, which is used to stimulate hair growth in alopecia.

This cosmetic mask uses peppermint and rosemary essential oils as active ingredients, complementing the action of the corresponding hydrosols. They also serve as natural fragrances.

The following vegetable oils are also used in the composition of the cosmetic mask: burdock oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn oil.

Burdock oil is extracted from burdock roots using oil extraction with other vegetable oils. This oil contains most of the vitamins necessary for normal hair growth: A, B, C, and E. It also contains minerals such as iron, copper, chromium, and others. A small amount of inulin acts as an effective cleanser and moisturizer for the hair and scalp. Burdock oil improves capillary circulation and restores scalp metabolism, effectively nourishes and strengthens the roots and hair structure, accelerates hair growth, stops hair loss, and relieves dandruff, itching, and dry scalp.

Cocoa butter, also known as theobroma butter, is a pale yellow fat extracted from cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao). It contains oleic, stearic, palmitic, and other fatty acids. Cocoa butter has protective properties, softens hair well, leaves a thin film that prevents moisture loss, protects against environmental aggressors, and adds shine.

Coconut oil is obtained from the copra (dried pulp of the coconut palm) using hot or cold pressing. It contains saturated fatty acids, vitamins B, PP, and E, as well as calcium, iron, and zinc. Refined, bleached, and deodorized coconut oil is used in cosmetics. This oil is similar to hair proteins and easily penetrates the hair shaft due to its molecular structure, providing maximum nourishment, hydration, and protection from damage. It also strengthens hair roots, prevents hair loss, stimulates growth, helps eliminate dandruff, and makes hair shiny and manageable.

Castor oil (also known as castor oil, or castor oil, or oleic acid) is a vegetable oil derived from the castor bean plant (Oleum ricini). It is a mixture of triglycerides of ricinoleic, linoleic, and oleic acids. Castor oil is obtained from the seeds of the castor plant by cold pressing. The castor beans, from which castor oil is extracted, are more than half vegetable fats and also contain approximately 15-20% protein. The oil also contains nearly 90% rare ricinoleic acid, which strengthens hair follicles, improves scalp circulation, and improves root nutrition. Castor oil also contains stearic, palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acids. It is also rich in vitamin E, which helps strengthen hair.

Sea buckthorn oil (Latin: Oleum Hippophaes) is the oil extracted from the sea buckthorn fruit. It is an oily, orange-red liquid with a distinctive odor and taste. Pure sea buckthorn oil (obtained without the use of other vegetable oils and not diluted with them after extraction) contains carotenoids ranging from 300 to 1000 mg/100 g or more, as well as tocopherols, sterols, phospholipids, vitamin K, and glycerides of oleic, linoleic, palmitoleic, palmitic, and stearic acids. The oil's rich chemical composition improves not only the condition of hair but also the scalp, stimulating hair growth and strengthening hair follicles. Used in masks, it adds shine and silkiness to hair.

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol, a viscous, colorless, and odorless liquid. It is one of the most common ingredients in cosmetics. It has antiseptic, preservative, and moisturizing properties. Glycerin has a remarkable property: it absorbs moisture from the air and saturates the skin. As a result, a moist film forms on the skin's surface, which produces a moisturizing effect. In hair products, it helps moisturize and soften hair, adding shine and improving its overall condition.

The cosmetic mask also contains the following active ingredients: raspberry ketone, aloe vera gel, D-panthenol.

Raspberry ketone is a substance found in raspberries. It appears as a white crystalline powder with a slight scent of ripe raspberries. Raspberry ketone stimulates hair growth, reduces hair loss, strengthens hair, and gives it a healthy, well-groomed appearance.

Aloe vera gel is a yellow-orange liquid. It has moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, soothing, softening, and regenerating properties. It contains active ingredients that are exceptionally effective when applied topically. It penetrates deep into the skin, stimulating capillary circulation, which positively affects the production of soluble collagen. Aloe vera gel also controls hair oiliness and soothes the scalp.

D-panthenol (provitamin B5) is a clear, colorless liquid with a viscous consistency. It is used in skin and hair care products. It accelerates regeneration processes and has a moisturizing effect. D-panthenol penetrates deeply and binds water in the outer layer of the skin, hair, and follicles, making dry skin and hair softer and more elastic. It has an anti-inflammatory effect and soothes irritated skin.

The natural emulsifiers BTMS and Olivem 1000 are used as emulsifiers in the claimed invention. BTMS is a natural, plant-based emulsifier in the form of white flakes and a conditioning component in cosmetics. This emulsifier is a fairly effective and gentle agent in cosmetics, not aggressive. Research has shown that its use not only does not irritate the skin, but also moisturizes and softens the skin, makes hair soft and silky, and relieves static tension during combing. This natural emulsifier is especially beneficial and effective for hair with split ends, dry and damaged hair (especially after perming and coloring), curly, brittle, and unruly hair, as well as dry and damaged skin. Olivem 1000 is a natural emulsifier in the form of solid white flakes, obtained from olive oil fatty acids using advanced green chemistry technologies. The product is Ecocert/COSMOS certified, environmentally friendly, and free of synthetic additives. This emulsifier's unique ability to deeply moisturize and restore the skin, creating emulsions with a non-greasy feel. Olivem 1000 is also suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Sharomix 708 is used as a preservative in this invention. This certified "green" natural preservative is a combination of organic acids, all components of which are approved by Ecocert as safe and approved for use in cosmetics. This effective and potent preservative effectively extends the shelf life of various cosmetic products. It has a natural, unobtrusive scent derived from natural ingredients.

A cosmetic mask against hair loss is prepared as follows:

Measure out the component of the water phase - mint or rosemary hydrolate - and heat to a temperature of 75-80°C.

To prepare the fatty phase, measure out the required amount of vegetable oils and emulsifiers on a scale, heat to a temperature of 75-80°C, ensuring complete dissolution of the solid components, then add glycerin and raspberry ketone, stir until completely dissolved and a homogeneous liquid is obtained.

Once both phases have reached the same temperature, or within 2-3°C of each other, combine the oily and aqueous phases with a homogenizer or blender, stirring constantly for 15-20 minutes. Cool the resulting emulsion to 45-50°C, and add the aloe vera gel and mustard seed oil extract in a thin stream while stirring constantly. After cooling to 30-35°C, add D-panthenol and mix thoroughly. Add the preservative and essential oils to the emulsion at a temperature below 30°C. When preparing the cosmetic mask, ensure complete distribution of the components and a homogeneous emulsion free of undissolved lumps.

How to use the anti-hair loss mask: Apply the mask to a dry scalp before washing. Apply a small amount evenly to the roots using massaging movements. Avoid applying to the ends. Cover your head with plastic wrap and leave it on for 10-15 minutes. Then, rinse off any remaining mask thoroughly and wash your hair. Use the mask twice a week.

Examples of implementation of the invention.

Example 1.

The cosmetic mask used in the invention utilizes processed essential oil and oilseed raw materials produced at the Federal State Budgetary Scientific Institution "Research Institute of Agriculture of Crimea" from high-quality raw materials grown in the institute's fields. The processed products were obtained and analyzed for key quality indicators in the raw material processing and standardization laboratory of the Essential Oil Crops Selection and Seed Center of the Research Institute of Agriculture of Crimea. Samples of the claimed cosmetic mask were also obtained there.

The range of values of the components included in the formula of the claimed cosmetic mask is given in Table 1.

Table 1 - Range of values of components included in the formula of the anti-hair loss mask, wt. %:

Components Min. Average Max. Aqueous extract of mustard cake 4.5 5.0 5.5 Mustard oil 1.0 1.5 2.0 Linseed oil 1.0 1.5 2.0 Burdock oil 1.5 2.0 2.5 Cocoa butter 0.5 1.0 1.5 Coconut oil 0.5 1.0 1.5 Castor oil 0.5 1.0 1.5 Sea buckthorn oil 1.0 1.5 2.0 Glycerol 1.0 2.0 3.0 Aloe vera gel 2.0 3.0 4.0 D-panthenol 0.4 0.7 1.0 Raspberry ketone 0.2 0.5 0.8 BTMS emulsifier 5.7 6.0 6.3 Emulsifier Olivem 1000 4.7 5.0 5.3 Preservative Sharomix 708 0.8 1.0 1.2 Peppermint/Rosemary Essential Oil 0.3 0.35 0.4 Peppermint/Rosemary Hydrosol 74.4 66.95 59.5

The organoleptic properties of the claimed cosmetic mask are presented in Table 2.

Table 2 - Organoleptic properties of the cosmetic mask against hair loss

Name of the indicator Characteristic Appearance Homogeneous creamy mass Color It has a yellowish tint Smell Matches the scent of the essential oil used

The physicochemical properties of the claimed cosmetic mask are presented in Table 3.

Table 3 - Physicochemical properties of the cosmetic mask against hair loss

Name of the indicator Meaning Mass fraction of water, % 59.5-74.4 Hydrogen index, pH 3.0-5.0 Colloidal stability stable, separation of the oil phase is possible, as permitted by regulatory and technical documentation Thermal stability stable

Example 2.

A study of the effectiveness of a cosmetic mask against hair loss was conducted on 12 women and 12 men of various ages with hair loss. To evaluate the effectiveness of both mask versions, half of the subjects in each group used a mask containing peppermint essential oil and hydrosol, while the other half used a mask containing rosemary essential oil and hydrosol. The participants applied the mask 2-3 times a week for 2 months. The study utilized the preferred embodiment of the invention, which incorporates the average values of the ingredients in the formula of the claimed cosmetic mask.

The results of the use of the anti-hair loss mask by the focus group participants are presented in Table 4.

Table 4 - Results of using the anti-hair loss mask by focus group participants

Item No. Floor Age Number of hairs lost per day Before applying the mask After applying the mask 1 women 20-30 years old 110-120 20-30 2 30-40 years old 170-180 50-60 3 40-50 years old 140-150 40-50 4 men 20-30 years old 90-100 20-30 5 30-40 years old 140-150 20-30 6 40-50 years old 180-190 50-60

The results show that men and women aged 20 to 50 years old who used this mask for two months experienced a significant reduction in daily hair loss. Additionally, new hair growth, increased thickness, and an improvement in overall scalp condition were observed. Subjects with dandruff reported relief from the problem after the first few uses. Both mask versions (using peppermint essential oil and hydrosol or rosemary essential oil and hydrosol) showed similar results in the trials, with no significant differences.

The results of the evaluation of the consumer properties of the anti-hair loss mask are presented in Table 5.

Table 5 - Results of the evaluation of consumer properties of the anti-hair loss mask

Item No. Mask properties Rating (0-5, where 5 is excellent, 4 is good, 3 is satisfactory, 2 is unsatisfactory, 1 is poor) 1 Appearance 4.8 2 Smell 5.0 3 Ease of application 4.8 4 Feelings after application 4.8 5 Ease of rinsing 4.7 6 Absorption rate 4.5 7 Reducing the amount of hair loss 4.8 8 Reducing the amount of dandruff 4.9

Thus, the cosmetic mask against hair loss based on the processed products of essential oil and oilseed raw materials, thanks to the claimed combination of properties and the quantitative ratio of ingredients, has a balanced composition, high consumer properties and allows for the achievement of the technical result of the invention.

The invention was prepared with the support of the Foundation for Assistance to Small Innovative Enterprises (UMNIK program, contract No. 19241GU/2023 dated 04/09/2024), as well as within the framework of state assignment No. FNZW-2022-0009.

Claims (6)

1. A cosmetic mask against hair loss, containing an aqueous extract of mustard cake, mustard oil, linseed oil, burdock oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn oil, glycerin, aloe vera gel, D-panthenol, raspberry ketone, emulsifiers, a preservative, as well as essential oil and hydrolate in the following ratio of components, wt.%: Aqueous extract of mustard cake 4.5-5.5 Mustard oil 1.0-2.0 Linseed oil 1.0-2.0 Burdock oil 1.5-2.5 Cocoa butter 0.5-1.5 Coconut oil 0.5-1.5 Castor oil 0.5-1.5 Sea buckthorn oil 1.0-2.0 Glycerol 1.0-3.0 Aloe vera gel 2.0-4.0 D-panthenol 0.4-1.0 Raspberry ketone 0.2-0.8 Emulsifiers 10.4-11.6 Preservative 0.8-1.2 Essential oil 0.3-0.4 Hydrolat Rest, In this case, essential oil and hydrolate of mint or essential oil and hydrolate of rosemary are used as essential oil and hydrolate. 2. A cosmetic mask according to paragraph 1, characterized in that it contains the BTMS emulsifier and the Olivem 1000 emulsifier as emulsifiers in the following ratio of components, wt.%: BTMS emulsifier 5.7-6.3 Emulsifier Olivem 1000 4.7-5.3 3. A cosmetic mask according to paragraph 1, characterized in that it contains Sharomix 708 as a preservative.