JP7599285B2 - Oil-in-oil cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to oil-in-oil type cosmetics.

Lip cosmetics such as lipstick and gloss that color the lips, blush (cheek blush) and eye shadow are cosmetics that exert such a significant cosmetic effect that they can completely change the impression of the user's appearance. For this reason, when selecting a makeup cosmetic product, the color itself and the texture such as freshness and luster are major factors.

On the other hand, in addition to the above-mentioned factors, lip cosmetics have also been developed that, from a functional standpoint, can suppress the so-called secondary adhesion, in which lipstick is transferred to parts that come into contact with the lips, such as cups, after it has been applied to the lips. For example, Patent Document 1 describes an oil-in-oil type cosmetic that combines a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, a dextrin fatty acid ester, and methylphenylpolysiloxane.

In recent years, consumer needs have become more diverse, and in addition to the functions originally required of products, there is a demand for products that are endowed with the function of providing a refreshing sensation during or after use. For example, Patent Document 2 describes that a cooling sensation composition with excellent cooling sensation effect can be obtained by blending vanillyl butyl ether with at least one cooling sensation substance selected from L-menthol, L-isopulegol, 3-(l-menthoxy)propane-1,2-diol, and paramenthane-3,8-diol.

On the other hand, when it comes to makeup cosmetics, products that give a tingling, warm sensation after application have a new appeal, as they provide a pleasant stimulation and a feeling of plumpness and moisture from within the applied surface.

Patent No. 4766720 Patent No. 4017758

However, among the areas where makeup cosmetics are applied, the lips have an extremely thin stratum corneum, almost no sebaceous glands, and little natural moisturizing factor (NMF) components. Therefore, the lips are extremely sensitive compared to other skin. When blending a cooling substance such as that described in Patent Document 2 into a lip cosmetic, the adhesion of the lip cosmetic to the lips is important, but lip cosmetics with high adhesion will end up being sticky and heavy. On the other hand, in the case of lip cosmetics that spread with a light touch without being sticky, the adhesion of the lip cosmetic is weak, and it is thought that it will be difficult to feel a tingling warmth.

The present invention has been made in consideration of the above problems, and aims to provide an oil-in-oil cosmetic that adheres well to the skin without feeling sticky, and provides a sensory stimulus, such as a tingling warmth, after application.

The oil-in-oil cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
(A) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or a non-volatile ester oil;
(B) a non-volatile silicone oil; and
(C) a TRP channel activator that activates a thermosensory receptor channel;
The composition comprises (A) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or a non-volatile ester oil and (B) a non-volatile silicone oil, which separate when mixed at 25°C.

(C) The TRP channel activator is preferably contained in an amount of 0.01 to 0.2% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

(C) the TRP channel activator is a combination of (C1) a first TRP channel activator and (C2) a second TRP channel activator,
(C1) the first TRP channel activator is at least one selected from vanillyl butyl ether, capsicum tincture, capsaicin, ginger tincture, vanillyl ethyl ether, vanillyl propyl ether, vanillin propylene glycol acetal, ethyl vanillin propylene glycol acetal, gingerol, 4-(l-menthoxymethyl)-2-(3'-methoxy-4'-hydroxyphenyl)-1,3-dioxolane, capsicum oil, capsicum oleoresin, ginger oleoresin, nonylic acid vanillylamide, jambu oleoresin, Japanese pepper extract, sanshool-I, sanshool-II, sanshoamide, black pepper extract, chavicin, piperine, and spilanthol;
(C2) The second TRP channel activator is preferably at least one selected from menthol, peppermint oil, 1-menthyl glyceryl ether, menthyl lactate, camphor, isopulegol, bornealol, cineole menthone, spearmint, peppermint, menthyl malonate, glycosyl-mono-menthyl-O-acetate, 3-L-menthoxypropane-1,2-diol, and 1-menthyl-3-hydroxybutyrate.

(C1) It is more preferable that the first TRP channel activator is at least one selected from vanillyl butyl ether, capsicum tincture, capsaicin, and ginger tincture.

(A) The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or non-volatile ester oil is preferably contained in an amount of 10 to 75% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

(B) The non-volatile silicone oil is preferably contained in an amount of 8 to 70% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

The mass ratio of (A) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or non-volatile ester oil to (B) non-volatile silicone oil is preferably (A)/{(A)+(B)}=0.19 to 0.9.

The viscosity of the oil-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1,000 to 65,000 mPa·s.

The oil-in-oil cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
(A) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or a non-volatile ester oil;
(B) a non-volatile silicone oil; and
(C) a TRP channel activator that activates a thermosensory receptor channel;
Since (A) the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or the non-volatile ester oil and (B) the non-volatile silicone oil separate when mixed at 25°C, the composition has good adhesion but is not sticky, and can provide a sensory stimulation such as a tingling warmth after application.

The oil-in-oil cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
(A) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or a non-volatile ester oil;
(B) a non-volatile silicone oil; and
(C) a TRP channel activator that activates a thermosensory receptor channel;
The composition comprises (A) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or a non-volatile ester oil and (B) a non-volatile silicone oil, which separate when mixed at 25°C.
Each component will be described in detail below.

(A) Non-volatile Hydrocarbon Oil and/or Non-volatile Ester Oil Examples of the (A) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil used in the present invention include hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, polyisobutylene, polyisoprene, liquid paraffin, squalane, hydrogenated polydecene, petrolatum, etc. Among these, polybutene is particularly preferred, and polybutene having a molecular weight of 1000 to 2650 is more preferred.

Non-volatile ester oils include dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate (trade name: Cosmol 168M), (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate) copolymer (trade name: Hi-Lucent ISDA), dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (trade name: LUSPLAN DD-DA7), dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl) dimer dilinoleate, and lauroyl glutamate esters such as di(octyldodecyl/phytosteryl/behenyl) lauroyl glutamate and (bis(lauroyl glutamate/lauroyl sarcosine)dimer dilinoleyl). Among these, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate, (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate) copolymer, and the like are particularly preferably used.

The blending amount of (A) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or non-volatile ester oil (hereinafter also referred to simply as (A) component) is preferably 10 to 75% by mass, more preferably 15 to 70% by mass, and even more preferably 20 to 60% by mass, of the total amount of the cosmetic. By blending an amount of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of 10% by mass or more, better adhesion can be achieved, and by blending an amount of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of 75% by mass or less, better spreadability can be ensured and stickiness can be further reduced.

(B) Non-volatile silicone oil (B) is not limited as long as it separates when mixed with component (A) at 25°C, and is appropriately selected so as to be an oil-in-oil type depending on the type of component (A) to be mixed at the same time. Examples of such non-volatile silicone oils include diphenyl dimethicone (also called methylphenyl polysiloxane), dimethicone, and fluorine-modified alkyl silicone. Among these, diphenyl dimethicone is particularly preferred, and diphenyl dimethicone with a viscosity of 300 to 500 cs is even more preferred.

The blending amount of (B) non-volatile silicone oil is preferably 8 to 70% by mass, more preferably 10 to 60% by mass, and even more preferably 10 to 50% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. By blending the non-volatile silicone oil in an amount of 8% by mass or more, the tingling warming effect of (C) the TRP channel activator can be made to last better, and by blending the amount in an amount of 70% by mass or less, it is possible to make the cosmetic more usable without any sticky feeling.

The oil-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention combines component (A), which separates when mixed at 25°C, with non-volatile silicone oil (B), so that the phase containing component (A) exerts adhesion (hereinafter also referred to as the adhesion phase in the present invention), making it easy to feel a tingling warmth, and the phase containing non-volatile silicone oil (B) remains on the surface of the applied cosmetic (hereinafter also referred to as the dispersion phase in the present invention), so it spreads with a light touch without being sticky, and the presence of both the adhesion phase and the dispersion phase allows it to adhere without being heavy, and to feel a tingling warmth after application. The combination of component (A) and non-volatile silicone oil (B) can improve the durability of the tingling warmth effect, and although the mechanism of action is not necessarily clear, it is presumed to be related to the fact that the TRP channel activating substance (C) exists in both the adhesion phase and the dispersion phase, and the transition of the TRP channel activating substance (C) between the adhesion phase and the dispersion phase occurs over time.

In particular, the mass ratio of (A) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or non-volatile ester oil to (B) non-volatile silicone oil is more preferably (A)/{(A)+(B)}=0.19 to 0.9, and even more preferably 0.3 to 0.8. By keeping the ratio (A)/{(A)+(B)} in the range of 0.19 to 0.9, the tingling warming effect of (C) TRP channel activator can be improved and usability can be improved.

(C) TRP channel activator The (C) TRP (transient receptor potential) channel activator is a substance that activates a thermosensory receptor channel. The (C) TRP channel activator is preferably a combination of (C1) a first TRP channel activator and (C2) a second TRP channel activator.

(C1) First TRP channel activator The (C1) first TRP channel activator is preferably at least one selected from vanillyl butyl ether, capsicum tincture, capsaicin, ginger tincture, vanillyl ethyl ether, vanillyl propyl ether, vanillin propylene glycol acetal, ethyl vanillin propylene glycol acetal, gingerol, 4-(l-menthoxymethyl)-2-(3'-methoxy-4'-hydroxyphenyl)-1,3-dioxolane, capsicum oil, capsicum oleoresin, ginger oleoresin, nonylic acid vanillylamide, jambu oleoresin, Japanese pepper extract, sanshool-I, sanshool-II, sanshoamide, black pepper extract, chavicin, piperine, and spilanthol. These (C1) first TRP channel activators may be used alone or in appropriate combination of two or more.

Among the above (C1) first TRP channel activators, from the viewpoints of versatility and good tingling sensation, it is more preferable to use at least one selected from vanillyl butyl ether, capsicum tincture, capsaicin, and ginger tincture.

(C2) Second TRP channel activator The (C2) second TRP channel activator is preferably at least one selected from menthol, peppermint oil, 1-menthyl glyceryl ether, menthyl lactate, camphor, isopulegol, bornol, cineole menthone, spearmint, peppermint, menthyl malonate, glycosyl-mono-menthyl-O-acetate, 3-L-menthoxypropane-1,2-diol, and 1-menthyl-3-hydroxybutyrate. These (C2) second TRP channel activators may be used alone or in appropriate combination of two or more.

The amount of the (C) TRP channel activator (when the (C) TRP channel activator is a combination of the (C1) first TRP channel activator and the (C2) second TRP channel activator, the total amount) is preferably 0.01 to 0.2% by mass, and even more preferably 0.02 to 0.15% by mass, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. When the amount of the (C) TRP channel activator is 0.01% by mass or more, a more tingling warming effect can be felt, and when it is 0.2% by mass or less, it can be felt as a warming sensation rather than a pain, even when applied to the lips, for example.

The viscosity of the oil-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1000 to 65000 mPa·s at 30°C. More preferably, it is 1100 to 50000 mPa·s, and even more preferably, it is 1200 to 45000 mPa·s. A viscosity of 1000 mPa·s or more, or 65000 mPa·s or less, can improve usability. Here, the viscosity is measured at 30°C using a B-type viscometer (rotation speed 10 rpm, "Vismetron viscometer VS-H type" manufactured by Shibaura Systems Co., Ltd.).

The oil-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention may contain other optional components that can be blended into the cosmetic, as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention. In particular, when the oil-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention is a lipstick or the like to be applied to the lips, a coloring material is blended. The coloring material may be any coloring material normally used in lipstick, and may be in powder or lake form (oil-mixed state). In addition, whether it is an inorganic pigment, an organic pigment, or a pearling agent, it is more likely to be wetted by component (A) than by non-volatile silicone oil (B), and the pigment will eventually spontaneously migrate to component (A), which is the adhesive phase. The blending amount of the coloring material is 0.01 to 30% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 20% by mass.

When the oil-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention is a lipstick or the like to be applied to the lips, it may further contain a semi-solid oil (other than component (A)) or a microcrystalline wax. By incorporating a semi-solid oil or microcrystalline wax, the lipstick or the like becomes less sticky after application and has excellent makeup staying power.

Specifically, semi-solid oil refers to a semi-solid oil with a hardness of 0.1 to 10 N at 25°C. This hardness was measured using a Rheotec rheometer with a pressure-sensitive shaft of 5φ, a penetration speed of 2 cm/min, and a penetration of 3 mm. Therefore, this does not include high-viscosity liquid oils such as polybutene, or oils that are hard at room temperature such as hydrogenated castor oil and hard lanolin.

Semi-solid oils that may be used include those commonly used in cosmetics such as petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter, partially hydrogenated coconut oil, and other vegetable oils, and partially hydrogenated jojoba oil.

Among these, vaseline is particularly preferred because it is non-sticky and lasts well. The amount of semi-solid oil is preferably 3 to 30% by mass, and more preferably 6 to 20% by mass.
The blending amount of the microcrystalline wax is preferably 0.5 to 6% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 4% by mass.

In addition to the above essential components, the oil-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention can contain oils, other waxes, powders, pigments, dyes, polymeric compounds, moisturizers, fragrances, surfactants, antioxidants, preservatives, beauty ingredients, etc., used in ordinary oil-in-oil cosmetic compositions, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Examples of moisturizers include polyhydric alcohol moisturizers such as glycerin, propylene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol.

The oil-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention can be used in lipstick, lip gloss, lip base, lipstick overcoat, lip balm, etc.

The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In the following examples, the blend amounts are expressed in mass % unless otherwise specified.
Oil-in-oil type cosmetics were prepared according to the formulations shown in the following tables. Specifically, the components of the continuous phase containing component (A) were stirred and mixed while heating as necessary, and the components of the dispersed phase containing non-volatile silicone oil (B) were separately stirred and mixed while heating as desired, and the dispersed phase was stirred and dispersed while stirring the continuous phase.

(viscosity)
The viscosity of each sample was measured by the following procedure: After adjusting the sample to 30° C., the viscosity was measured using a Brookfield viscometer (rotation speed 10 rpm, “Vismetron viscometer VS-H type” manufactured by Shibaura Systems Co., Ltd.).

(Evaluation test)
An evaluation test was conducted by having a panel of 10 experts take the prepared cosmetic in the bottle onto a tip (approximately 1 ^cm2 ) and apply it to the upper lip 1.5 times, then take it again onto the tip and apply it to the lower lip 1.5 times. The evaluation items were the type of sensory stimulation when applied to the lips (tingling, prickly, tingling), the intensity of the sensory stimulation when applied, the intensity of the sensory stimulation within about 30 seconds to 5 minutes after application, the sluggishness during application, and the longevity of the sensory stimulation, which were evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.

(Intensity of sensory stimulation when first applied)
<Evaluation points>
+3: Very strong irritation +2: Irritation +1: Slight irritation 0: No or almost no irritation <Evaluation criteria>
A: The average rating of the 10 panelists is +2.5 or more. B: The average rating of the 10 panelists is +1.5 or more but less than +2.5. C: The average rating of the 10 panelists is +0.5 or more but less than +1.5. D: The average rating of the 10 panelists is less than +0.5.

(Sensory stimulation intensity within 30 seconds to 5 minutes after application)
<Evaluation points>
+1: The irritation was stronger than when it was first applied. 0: The intensity of the sensory irritation was the same as when it was first applied. -1: The irritation was weaker than when it was first applied. <Evaluation criteria>
A: The average of the ratings of the 10 panelists is 0.3 or more. B: The average of the ratings of the 10 panelists is -0.3 or more but less than 0.3. C: The average of the ratings of the 10 panelists is less than -0.3.

(Slow application)
<Evaluation points>
+3: Feels sluggish and uncomfortable +2: Feels a little sluggish and uncomfortable +1: No problem in use 0: Feels light and comfortable to use <Evaluation criteria>
A: The average rating of the 10 panelists is less than +0.5. B: The average rating of the 10 panelists is between +0.5 and +1.5. C: The average rating of the 10 panelists is between +1.5 and +2.5. D: The average rating of the 10 panelists is +2.5 or more.

(Long-lasting sensory stimulation)
<Evaluation points>
+2: Long-lasting +1: Slightly long-lasting 0: No sense of long-lasting <Evaluation criteria>
A: The average rating of the 10 panelists is +1.5 or more. B: The average rating of the 10 panelists is +1.0 or more but less than +1.5. C: The average rating of the 10 panelists is +0.5 or more but less than +1.0. D: The average rating of the 10 panelists is less than +0.5.

The formulations and evaluation results are shown in Tables 1 and 2. The commercially available products used for the compounds shown in the tables are as follows:
Dextrin palmitate: Leopearl KL (Iwase Cosfa Co., Ltd.)
(Palmitic acid/ethylhexanoic acid) dextrin: Leopearl TT (Iwase Cosfa Co., Ltd.)
Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate: Cosmol 43V (Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.)
Dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate: Cosmol 168M (Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.)
Dimethylsilylated silica: Aerosil R972 (Toshin Kasei Co., Ltd.)
Diphenyl dimethicone: Silicone KF54 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)

As shown in Table 1, the oil-in-oil cosmetic of the example had a good sensory stimulation intensity when first applied, a good sensory stimulation intensity within about 30 seconds to 5 minutes after application, and a long-lasting sensory stimulation, and did not feel heavy when applied. Furthermore, a comparison of Example 1 with Examples 12 and 13 showed that the combination of (C) TRP channel activator reduced the sensory stimulation intensity within about 30 seconds to 5 minutes.

On the other hand, as shown in Table 2, in Comparative Example 1, which does not contain (B) non-volatile silicone oil, the sensory stimulation immediately after application was good, but the intensity of the sensory stimulation decreased within about 30 seconds to 5 minutes, and the application was very sluggish. In Comparative Example 2, which does not contain component (A), the sensory stimulation was not sluggish and there was a decrease in the intensity of the sensory stimulation within about 30 seconds to 5 minutes, and the feeling of longevity was also inferior. In Comparative Examples 3 and 5, the formulations were made without wax, semi-solid oil, or thickener in order to reduce the sluggishness, but although the sluggishness was reduced, the intensity of the sensory stimulation was reduced. In order to make the initial sensory stimulation as strong as that of the Examples, as shown in Comparative Example 4, it is necessary to increase the amount of (C) TRP channel activator by 10 times, but even so, the intensity of the sensory stimulation was reduced within about 30 seconds to 5 minutes. It is considered that the combination of component (A) and non-volatile silicone oil (B) can reduce the sudden disappearance of the sensory stimulation.

Next, the amount of the (C) TRP channel activator in Examples 1, 5, and 10 was changed to 0.05% by mass (Examples 14, 18, and 22), 0.02% by mass (Examples 14, 19, and 23), 0.01% by mass (Examples 16, 20, and 24), and 0.2% by mass (Examples 17, 21, and 25), and the evaluation was performed in the same manner. The results are shown in Table 3. As shown in Table 3, when applied to the lips, it can be seen that the sensory stimulation is better when more than 0.02% by mass is applied. In addition, when the (C) TRP channel activator is a combination of valinyl butyl ether and menthol, no sensory stimulation is obtained from the beginning of application at 0.01% by mass, so in the case of this combination only, the amount of the (C) TRP channel activator is considered to be preferably 0.02 to 0.2% by mass. However, it is considered that sensory stimulation can be obtained by increasing the amount applied even if it is less than 0.02% by mass.

Table 4 shows examples in which the type of TRP channel activator (C) was changed from Example 1. As shown in Table 4, in all examples, the intensity of the sensory stimulation immediately after application, the intensity of the sensory stimulation within about 30 seconds to 5 minutes after application, and the long-lasting feeling of the sensory stimulation were good, and there was no sluggishness when applied.

Claims (5)

(A) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or a non-volatile ester oil;
(B) a non-volatile silicone oil; and
(C) a TRP channel activator that activates a thermosensory receptor channel;
Including,
The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or the non-volatile ester oil (A) and the non-volatile silicone oil (B) separate when mixed at 25° C.,
the blending amount of the (A) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or non-volatile ester oil is 10 mass% or more based on the total amount of the cosmetic,
a mass ratio of the (A) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or the (B) non-volatile silicone oil is (A)/{(A)+(B)}=0.19 to 0.9;
The (C) TRP channel activator is a combination of (C1) a first TRP channel activator and (C2) a second TRP channel activator,
(C1) the first TRP channel activator is at least one selected from vanillyl butyl ether, capsicum tincture, and ginger tincture;
the second TRP channel activator (C2) is at least one selected from the group consisting of menthol, menthyl lactate, and camphor;
The oil-in-oil cosmetic comprises the (C) TRP channel activator in an amount of 0.05 to 0.2% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The oil-in-oil type cosmetic according to claim 1 , wherein the (A) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or non-volatile ester oil is contained in an amount of 10 to 75% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. 3. The oil-in-oil cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile silicone oil (B) is contained in an amount of 8 to 70% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The oil-in-oil type cosmetic preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a mass ratio of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (A) and/or the non-volatile ester oil (B) to the non-volatile silicone oil (B) is (A ) /{(A)+(B)}= 0.3 to 0.8 . The oil-in-oil cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, having a viscosity of 1,000 to 65,000 mPa·s.