JP7588991B2 - Water-in-oil emulsion composition - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion composition.

In makeup cosmetics such as foundations, the incorporation of phenyl silicone oil has been investigated in order to impart a natural glossy feel to the skin after application.
For example, Patent Document 1 describes that a solid emulsion cosmetic containing a high refractive index silicone oil such as methylphenyl silicone, a (dimethicone/phenylvinyldimethicone) crosspolymer, a hydrophobic or hydrophobized powder, and a wax has both an excellent effect of giving the skin a glossy finish and an effect of correcting unevenness.

JP 2011-231102 A

However, when phenyl silicone oil is blended into makeup cosmetics that contain a large amount of coloring pigments and waxes and are intended to provide high coverage, there is an issue that the oil leaves a noticeable shine on the skin after application. There is also an issue that the oil does not adhere well to the skin and is difficult to apply in a concentrated manner to areas of skin blemishes that you want to hide.

The inventors have discovered that a water-in-oil emulsion composition that solves the above problems can be obtained by combining heavy liquid paraffin with a viscosity of 10,000 to 200,000 mPa·s at 25°C with a liquid phenyl-modified silicone, a solid or semi-solid oil agent, and a color pigment.

The present invention comprises the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D):
(A) 0.1 to 10% by mass of heavy liquid paraffin having a viscosity of 10,000 to 200,000 mPa s at 25°C,
(B) 0.1 to 10% by mass of a phenyl-modified silicone that is liquid at 25°C,
(C) 0.5 to 15% by mass of an oil agent that is solid or semi-solid at 25°C,
(D) Colored pigment 10-30% by mass
The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising:

The water-in-oil emulsion composition of the present invention imparts a natural sheen to the skin after application, reduces glare, and improves the feeling of application as it adheres closely to the skin. Moreover, since the color of the water-in-oil emulsion composition on the skin after application makes the borders on the skin less noticeable, it allows for a natural makeup finish even when applied intensively to areas of skin blemishes that you wish to hide.

The heavy liquid paraffin having a viscosity of 10,000 to 200,000 mPa·s at 25° C. as component (A) used in the present invention is preferably heavy liquid isoparaffin or heavy liquid isoparaffin of polybutene, which is a mixture of hydrocarbons having side chains. For example, a mixture obtained by copolymerizing isobutene and n-butene and then hydrogenating the copolymer can be used, and a hydrogenated polybutene (isoparaffin) that has been deodorized can be used. The polybutene is a copolymer of isobutene, and for example, a copolymer obtained by polymerizing isobutene (C4 gas) using a catalyst can be used.
These heavy liquid isoparaffin and polybutene are preferably paste-like at room temperature (25° C.) and have a number average molecular weight of 900 to 5,000, from the viewpoints of improving the natural luster of the skin after application, improving the feeling of application in close contact with the skin, reducing the sense of glare, and making the border on the skin due to the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable.

Examples of commercially available heavy liquid isoparaffins include Pearleem 18 (number average molecular weight 1000), Pearleem 24 (number average molecular weight 1350), and Pearleem 46 (number average molecular weight 2650) (all manufactured by NOF Corporation); examples of polybutenes include Idemitsu Polybutene 2000H (number average molecular weight 2900), Idemitsu Polybutene 300H (number average molecular weight 1330) (all manufactured by Idemitsu Kosan Co., Ltd.), and refined polybutene HV-100F (SB) (number average molecular weight 940) (manufactured by Japan Natural Products Co., Ltd.).
The heavy liquid paraffin of component (A) may be used alone or in combination of two or more. The viscosity of component (A) at 25°C is 10,000 to 200,000 mPa·s, but from the viewpoints of improving the natural luster of the skin after application, improving the feeling of application in close contact with the skin, reducing the glare, and making the border on the skin caused by the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable, the viscosity at 25°C is preferably 15,000 to 80,000 mPa·s, and more preferably 20,000 to 60,000 mPa·s.
Here, the viscosity is measured under the following conditions.
Viscosity measurement conditions: B-type viscometer (TVB-10 model, manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.), rotor No. 4, 12 rpm, 60 seconds. However, for viscosity of 50,000 mPa·s or more, rotor No. 4, 3 rpm, 60 seconds.

The content of component (A) is 0.1 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.3 to 8% by mass, more preferably 0.8 to 7% by mass, and even more preferably 1 to 5% by mass, of the total composition from the viewpoints of improving the feeling of application by adhering closely to the skin, making the borders on the skin caused by the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable, and giving a natural finish that does not appear to stand out from the skin.

Component (B) is a phenyl-modified silicone that is liquid at 25° C. Liquid means that the viscosity at 25° C. is 4000 mPa·s or less.
The viscosity of component (B) at 25° C. is preferably 600 mPa·s or less, more preferably 200 mPa·s or less, and even more preferably 50 mPa·s or less.
Here, the viscosity is measured under the following conditions.
Viscosity measurement conditions: B-type viscometer (TVB-10 model, manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.), rotor No. 4, 60 rpm, 60 seconds

Examples of phenyl-modified silicones that are liquid at 25° C. include phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, and trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxiane.
Among these, from the viewpoints of improving the natural luster of the skin after application, improving the feeling of application in close contact with the skin, reducing the sense of glare, and making the boundary between the skin and the skin caused by the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable, it is preferable to contain one or more types selected from phenyl trimethicone and diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and it is more preferable to contain diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone.

As component (B), commercially available products such as SH556 (manufactured by Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd.) as phenyl trimethicone; KF-56A (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) as diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone; KF-50 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), KF-53 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), and KF-54 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) as diphenyl dimethicone; PDM-1000 (manufactured by Wacker Asahi Kasei Silicone Co., Ltd.) as trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone; and PH-1555 HRI C.F. (manufactured by Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd.) as trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane can be used.

Component (B) may be used alone or in combination with two or more other types. The content is 0.1 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.3 to 8% by mass, more preferably 1 to 7% by mass, and even more preferably 1.5 to 4% by mass, based on the total composition, from the viewpoints of improving the natural luster of the skin after application, improving the feeling of application in close contact with the skin, and reducing the feeling of glare.

In the present invention, the mass ratio (A)/(B) of component (A) to component (B) is preferably 0.05 to 15, more preferably 0.1 to 7, and even more preferably 0.25 to 3, from the viewpoints of improving the natural luster of the skin after application and the feeling of application adhering closely to the skin, and making the border on the skin due to the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable.
In the present invention, from the viewpoints of improving the natural luster and stability of the skin after application and making the boundary between the skin and the skin caused by the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable, the total content of components (A) and (B) is preferably 1.5 to 15 mass %, more preferably 2 to 12 mass %, even more preferably 3 to 10 mass %, and even more preferably 4 to 7.5 mass % of the total composition.

Component (C) is an oil agent that is solid or semi-solid at 25°C.
Being solid or semi-solid at 25° C. means that the viscosity at 25° C. is greater than 200,000 mPa·s. The viscosity is measured in the same manner as for component (A).
The oil agent that is solid at 25° C. is not limited as long as it is one that is usually used in cosmetics, and animal wax, vegetable wax, mineral wax, synthetic wax, etc. can be used. More specifically, examples of ester waxes include rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax, and glomerulus wax, and examples of hydrocarbon waxes include ceresin, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, and polyolefin wax.

Examples of oils that are semi-solid at 25° C. include cholesterol derivatives such as cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, cholesteryl macadamia nut oil fatty acid, and di(cholesteryl, behenyl, octyldodecyl) N-lauroyl-L-glutamate;
Phytosterol derivatives such as N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di(phytosteryl/behenyl/2-octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di(phytosteryl/2-octyldodecyl), phytosteryl isostearate, phytosteryl oleate, and dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl);
Dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters such as dipentaerythritol hexaoxystearate and dipentaerythritol rosinate;
Triglycerides such as caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic triglyceride, glyceryl trilanolinate, and glyceryl tribehenate;
Examples of such oils include partially hydrogenated triglycerides such as hardened oils, lanolin, soft lanolin fatty acids, lanosterol derivatives, petrolatum, and hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate.

From the viewpoints of imparting a natural sheen to the skin after application, improving the feeling of application in close contact with the skin, improving stability, reducing glare, and making the boundary between the skin and the skin due to the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable, component (C) preferably contains at least one or more selected from cholesterol derivatives, phytosterol derivatives, triglycerides, lanolin, petrolatum, and hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, more preferably contains at least one or more selected from cholesterol derivatives, phytosterol derivatives, triglycerides, lanolin, and petrolatum, and further preferably contains phytosterol derivatives, triglycerides, and petrolatum,
It is even more preferable that the active ingredient contains at least one or more selected from dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl), tribehenate glyceryl, and petrolatum.
It is even more preferable that the active ingredient contains at least one or more selected from macadamia nut oil fatty acid cholesteryl, phytosteryl oleate, dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl), lanolin, and petrolatum.

One or more types of component (C) may be used, and the content is 0.5 to 15% by mass of the total composition, preferably 2 to 12% by mass, more preferably 4 to 10% by mass, and even more preferably 6 to 9% by mass, from the viewpoints of improving the natural luster of the skin after application, the feeling of application adhering to the skin, improving stability, reducing glare, and making the border on the skin caused by the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable.

In the present invention, the mass ratio (A)/(C) of component (A) to component (C) is preferably 0.01 to 1, more preferably 0.03 to 0.8, and even more preferably 0.15 to 0.45, from the viewpoints of improving the natural luster of the skin after application, improving the feeling of application in close contact with the skin, reducing the sense of glare, and making the border on the skin caused by the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable.

The color pigment of component (D) is one that is commonly used in cosmetics, and examples of such pigments include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, red ocher, Prussian blue, ultramarine, chromium oxide, and chromium hydroxide, metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate, and inorganic pigments such as carbon black; Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Examples of the pigments to be treated include synthetic organic pigments such as Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228, Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 405, Red No. 505, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 401, Blue No. 1, and Blue No. 404; natural organic pigments such as β-carotene, caramel, and paprika color, and composites of these color pigments, composite pigments combining these color pigments with pearl pigments, etc. Examples of the pearl pigments to be treated include natural or synthetic inorganic powders such as mica, phlogopite, talc, silica, sericite, mica, glass, kaolin, bismuth oxychloride, cerium oxide, calcium sulfate, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, and plate-like alumina powder. Specific examples of composite pigments include titanium oxide-coated mica, iron oxide-coated mica, iron oxide-coated titanium mica, iron oxide-coated synthetic phlogopite, chromium oxide-coated titanium mica, titanium oxide-coated glass powder, iron oxide-coated glass powder, titanium oxide-containing glass powder, and iron oxide-containing glass powder.
As component (D), from the viewpoint of having a good covering power while making the boundary between the skin and the skin due to the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable, a metal oxide is preferable, and it is more preferable to contain at least one or two or more selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, and red iron oxide, and it is even more preferable to contain at least one or two or more selected from titanium oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, and red iron oxide.

These color pigments can be used as they are, or can be used after being subjected to a hydrophobic treatment, such as a surface treatment with a fluorine compound, a silicone treatment, an alkyl treatment, an alkylsilane treatment, a metal soap treatment, a water-soluble polymer treatment, an amino acid treatment, an acylated amino acid treatment, a lecithin treatment, an organic titanate treatment, a polyol treatment, an acrylic resin treatment, a methacrylic resin treatment, or a urethane resin treatment.
The color pigment can be subjected to a hydrophobic treatment by a conventional method.

One or more types of component (D) may be used, and the content is 10 to 30% by mass of the total composition, preferably 11 to 25% by mass, more preferably 12 to 20% by mass, and even more preferably 13 to 18% by mass, from the viewpoints of improving stability and making the boundary between the skin and the skin less noticeable due to the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition while maintaining covering power.

The water-in-oil emulsion composition of the present invention may further contain (E) a liquid hydrocarbon oil other than component (A), which can improve the feeling of application by adhering closely to the skin. Here, "liquid" means that the viscosity at 25°C is 4000 mPa·s or less.
The viscosity of component (E) at 25° C. is preferably 600 mPa·s or less, more preferably 200 mPa·s or less, and even more preferably 50 mPa·s or less.
The viscosity is measured in the same manner as for component (B).

Such hydrocarbon oils may be either straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbon oils, and examples thereof include liquid paraffin, light isoparaffin, liquid isoparaffin, isododecane, polybutene, squalane, squalene, and olefin oligomers.
Of these, from the viewpoint of improving the feeling of application by adhering closely to the skin, it is preferable to contain at least one or more types selected from liquid paraffin, light isoparaffin, and olefin oligomer, it is more preferable to contain at least one or more types selected from liquid paraffin and olefin oligomer, and olefin oligomer is even more preferable.

One or more types of component (E) may be used, and the content is preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass, more preferably 1 to 6% by mass, and even more preferably 2 to 4% by mass, of the total composition from the viewpoints of excellent stability and the feeling of application in close contact with the skin.

The water-in-oil emulsion composition of the present invention may further contain a lipophilic surfactant, which improves the feeling of application to the skin and the stability, and makes the boundary between the skin and the skin due to the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable.
The lipophilic surfactant is preferably a nonionic surfactant having an HLB in the range of 2 to 6, and examples thereof include glycerin fatty acid esters, propylene glycol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan monoisostearate, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkyl glyceryl ethers, alkyl polyglyceryl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkyl amines, and silicone-based surfactants.
Among these, from the viewpoints of improving the feeling of application in close contact with the skin, improving stability, and making the border on the skin due to the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable, it is preferable to contain at least one or more types selected from sorbitan fatty acid esters and silicone-based surfactants, sorbitan fatty acid esters are more preferable, and sorbitan monoisostearate is even more preferable.
Here, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) indicates the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group portion in the total molecular weight of the surfactant, and is calculated by Griffin's formula. When a surfactant is composed of two or more nonionic surfactants, the HLB of the mixed surfactant is calculated as follows. The HLB of the mixed surfactant is the phase arithmetic average of the HLB values of the individual nonionic surfactants based on their blending ratio.
Mixed HLB=Σ(HLBx×Wx)/ΣWx
HLBx indicates the HLB value of nonionic surfactant X.
Wx represents the mass (g) of the nonionic surfactant X having a value of HLBx.

One or more types of lipophilic surfactants may be used, and the content is preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass in the total composition, more preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass, and even more preferably 1 to 3% by mass, from the viewpoints of improving the feeling of application in close contact with the skin, improving stability, and making the border on the skin caused by the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable.

In the water-in-oil emulsion composition of the present invention, the water content is preferably 10 to 70% by mass, more preferably 20 to 60% by mass, and even more preferably 25 to 50% by mass, based on the total composition, from the viewpoint of improving stability.

The water-in-oil emulsion composition of the present invention may contain, in addition to the above-mentioned components, components that are usually used in cosmetics, such as oily components other than those mentioned above, extender pigments such as talc and mica, powders other than those mentioned above, polymeric compounds, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusters, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, disinfectants, skin activators, moisturizers, and cooling agents.

The water-in-oil emulsion composition of the present invention can be produced according to a conventional method and can be in the form of a liquid, emulsion, paste, cream, gel, solid, etc., with paste, cream, and solid being preferred.

From the viewpoints of improving the feeling of application by adhesion to the skin and making the border on the skin due to the color of the applied water-in-oil emulsion composition less noticeable, the viscosity of the water-in-oil emulsion composition of the present invention at 25° C. is preferably 15,000 to 200,000 mPa·s, more preferably 30,000 to 180,000 mPa·s, even more preferably 50,000 to 150,000 mPa·s, and even more preferably 75,000 to 90,000 mPa·s.
In the present invention, the viscosity of the composition is measured under the following conditions.
Viscosity measurement conditions: B-type viscometer (TVB-10 model, manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.), rotor No. TC, 5 rpm, 60 seconds

The water-in-oil emulsion composition of the present invention is suitable as a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, and can be used as a makeup base, foundation, concealer; makeup cosmetics such as blusher, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, eyebrow, overcoat agent, lipstick, etc.; and UV protection cosmetics such as sunscreen lotion, sunscreen cream, etc.

Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example 1
A water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic (foundation) having the composition shown in Table 1 was prepared, and the viscosity was measured and the gloss, lack of glitter, adhesion, and lack of visibility of the boundary between the skin and the skin after application were evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 1.

(Production method)
The powder phase components were mixed by stirring in a Henschel mixer, and this was added to and dispersed in the oil phase components that had been heated and dissolved at 80° C. The water phase components were then dissolved and added at 80° C., and dispersed in a homogenizer, after which the mixture was filled into a container and cooled to room temperature.

(Evaluation Method)
(1) Viscosity:
After preparation, 40 g of each water-in-oil emulsion composition was placed in a 40 mL sample bottle (ED-40 bottle, manufactured by Asai Glass Co., Ltd.) and measured at 25° C. under the following conditions.
Viscosity measurement conditions: B-type viscometer (TVB-10 model, manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.), rotor No. TC, 5 rpm, 60 seconds

(2) Glossiness:
One expert evaluator used his/her finger to apply 0.03 g of each water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic to an area of 2 x 3 ^cm2 on the skin on the inside of the forearm, and rated the sense of shine immediately after application on the following 5-point scale.
5: There is a clear sheen.
4: Has a glossy finish.
3: Slightly glossy.
2: Not much shine.
1: There is a clear lack of shine.

(3) Lack of glare:
A specialist evaluator used his/her finger to apply 0.03 g of each water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic to an area of 2 × 3 ^cm2 on the skin on the inside of the forearm, and visually evaluated the glittering sensation on the skin 5 minutes after application using the following 5-point scale. The glittering sensation refers to a state in which there is no bare skin sensation and unnatural reflected light is visible.
5: There is clearly no glare.
4: No glare is felt.
3: Not much glare.
2: There is a slight sense of glare.
1: Glare is clearly felt.

(4) Adhesion:
One expert evaluator used his/her finger to apply 0.03 g of each water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic to an area of 2 x 3 ^cm2 on the skin on the inside of the forearm, and evaluated the feeling of application on the following 5-point scale for the feeling of application in close contact with the skin. The feeling of application in close contact with the skin refers to the feeling that the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic is absorbed into the skin and becomes one with it when applied to the skin. By obtaining the feeling of application in close contact, a natural makeup finish without a sense of incongruity can be obtained.
5: There is a clear sense of adhesion.
4: Feels tight fitting.
3: There is a slight feeling of adhesion.
2: There is not much adhesion.
1: There is clearly no adhesion.

(5) Inconspicuousness of skin borders after application:
One expert evaluator used his/her finger to apply 0.03 g of each water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic to an area of 2 x 3 ^cm2 on the skin on the inside of the forearm, and 5 minutes after application, visually evaluated the inconspicuousness of the boundary between the applied and unapplied areas of the skin using the following 5-point scale.
5: Not obviously noticeable.
4: Doesn't feel noticeable.
3: Not very noticeable.
2: Somewhat noticeable.
1: It is clearly noticeable.

Claims (3)

The following components (A), (B), (C) , (D) and (E) :
(A) 0.3 to 8 mass% of heavy liquid paraffin having a viscosity of 20,000 to 60,000 mPa s at 25°C,
(B) 0.3 to 8 % by mass of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone ,
(C) 2 to 12 % by mass of at least one or more oils selected from dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl), tribehenate glyceryl, and petrolatum,
(D) 12 to 20 % by mass of at least one or more color pigments selected from titanium oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, and red iron oxide ,
(E) Liquid hydrocarbon oil having a viscosity of 200 mPa·s or less at 25°C: 1 to 6% by mass
Contains
A water-in-oil emulsion composition , in which the mass ratio (A)/(C) of component (A) to component (C) is 0.06 to 0.8 . The water-in-oil emulsion composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio (A)/(B) of component (A) to component (B) is 0.05 to 15. 3. The water-in-oil emulsion composition according to claim 1 , wherein the total content of components (A) and (B) is 1.5 to 15% by mass.