JP7622151B1 - Oil-based solid cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention aims to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic preparation that is excellent in resistance to secondary adhesion, cosmetic staying power, and usability (lightness of spreadability).
[Solution] It has been discovered that the above problems can be solved by including the following components (A) to (C), and this has led to the completion of the present invention.
(A) Lauryl PEG-10 Tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone (B) Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
(C) Monoglycerin fatty acid ester [Selected figure] Figure 1

Description

The present invention relates to an oil-based solid cosmetic preparation, and more specifically, to an oil-based solid cosmetic preparation that is excellent in resistance to secondary adhesion, cosmetic staying power, and usability (lightness of spreadability).

Oil-based solid cosmetics, which are composed of solid oils such as wax, liquid oils, and powders as their framework, are required to have basic functions such as filling during production, spreadability of the applied film, and cosmetic durability. Furthermore, conventional lip cosmetics have had the problem of secondary adhesion, whereby after lipstick is applied to the lips, the lipstick is transferred to parts of the lips that come into contact with the lips, such as cups.

In response to such demands, cosmetics with secondary adhesion resistance have been developed. For example, there is a method in which a high-viscosity oil such as hydrogenated polyisobutene is blended with a specific organic silicone oil, and the hydrogenated polyisobutene and the organic silicone oil are separated by shear during use to achieve a secondary adhesion-free effect (secondary adhesion resistance in this application) (see, for example, Patent Documents 1, 2, and 3 below). However, with this method, the cosmetics are prone to separation at room temperature, which makes it difficult to obtain a uniform cosmetic film due to uneven application, and the cosmetic does not last sufficiently over time.

Furthermore, there is a method in which a specific alkyl polyether-modified silicone is combined with a dimer acid ester, and after application, the polyether-modified silicone is made highly viscous by moisture supplied from the outside, improving makeup staying power and color transfer prevention effect (secondary adhesion resistance in this application) (see, for example, Patent Document 4 below). However, the combination of these two components alone results in an excessively high viscosity, which deteriorates usability (lightness of spread) and impairs the uniformity of the coating film.

JP 2011-140481 A JP 2012-82188 A JP 2012-250927 A JP 2019-006727 A

The present invention was made in consideration of the above-mentioned conventional technology, and aims to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic product that has excellent resistance to secondary adhesion, cosmetic lasting power, and usability (lightness of spreadability).

In order to achieve the above objective, the inventors conducted extensive research and discovered that the above objective could be achieved by combining components (A) to (C), which led to the completion of the present invention.

That is, the present invention is an oily solid cosmetic preparation comprising the following components (A) to (C):
(A) Lauryl PEG-10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone
(B) Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate
(C) Monoglycerol fatty acid ester

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition that is excellent in resistance to secondary adhesion, cosmetic wear, and ease of use (light spreadability).

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing an example of visual evaluation of secondary adhesion resistance.

The present invention will be described in more detail below. Unless otherwise noted, the amount of each component expressed as "%" below means % by mass.

In the present invention, the term "oil-based solid cosmetic" refers to an oil-based cosmetic that exhibits solid properties at 25°C. In addition, the oil-based solid cosmetic in the present invention is not particularly limited in terms of its formulation, so long as it is solid at 25°C. For example, the composition can be molded by heating and dissolving, pouring into a mold, and cooling, and examples of formulations include stick-shaped, pencil-shaped, and metal plate-filled products. In addition, in the present invention, "oil-based" refers to a formulation in which oil is the continuous phase and which contains substantially no water, or which contains 1% by mass or less of water, and does not include emulsions.

The (A) lauryl PEG-10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (A)) used in the present invention is a modified silicone in which a silicone dendron group, an alkyl group, and a polyether group are bonded to a silicone chain. This component has the property of reacting with moisture to gel.

An example of a commercially available product of the component (A) is DOWSIL ES-5300 FORMULATION AID (manufactured by Dow Corning Toray Silicone Co., Ltd.).
The amount of component (A) is not particularly limited as long as it is within a range in which the effects of the present invention can be obtained, but it is usually used in a range of preferably 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably 5 to 25% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition. Within this range, the resistance to secondary adhesion and the cosmetic lasting effect are very excellent.

The polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (B) used in the present invention (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (B)) is a component that promotes the reaction in which component (A) reacts with moisture to form a gel. There are no particular restrictions, and any component normally used in cosmetics can be used.

Commercially available products of component (B) include, for example, DG Oil IS-213P (manufactured by National Mimatsu Co., Ltd.), Cosmol 43N (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.), Cosmol 43V (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.), and CITHROL PG23IS (manufactured by Croda Japan Co., Ltd.).

The amount of component (B) is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range in which the effects of the present invention can be obtained, but it is usually preferably used in the range of 1 to 50% by weight based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition. In this range, the reaction of component (A) with moisture to gel is promoted, and the properties of improving resistance to secondary adhesion and cosmetic staying power are excellent.

The (C) monoglycerin fatty acid ester (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (C)) used in the present invention has one glycerin in its structure, and at least one of the three hydroxyl groups of the glycerin is ester-bonded to a molecule having a fatty acid, and has lower hydration properties than component (B) and polyglycerin fatty acid ester. Therefore, even if component (C) is blended at the same time, it does not contribute much to promoting the reaction between component (A) and water, and is therefore considered to be a component that improves usability (lightness of spread) without inhibiting the effects of components (A) and (B). There are no particular restrictions on component (C), and any component normally used in cosmetics can be used.

Specific examples of the above component (C) include, for example, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, tri(caprylic/capric)glyceryl, tri(palm oil fatty acid/palm kernel oil fatty acid/olive oil fatty acid/macadamia nut oil fatty acid/rapeseed oil fatty acid), tri(caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic acid)glyceryl Acid) glyceryl, PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl oleate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl abietate, glyceryl undecylenate, glyceryl citrate, tri(behenic acid/isostearate/eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl, coconut oil fatty acid PEG-7 glyceryl, etc. Particularly preferred components include glyceryl isostearate, tri(caprylic acid/capric acid) glyceryl, tri(palm oil fatty acid/palm kernel oil fatty acid/olive oil fatty acid/macadamia nut oil fatty acid/rapeseed oil fatty acid) glyceryl, and isostearic acid PEG-60 glyceryl.

Commercially available products of component (C) include, for example, NIKKOL MGIS (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.), HS OIL G-AP (manufactured by National Mimatsu Co., Ltd.), M Fine Oil CCT-1 (manufactured by Miyoshi Oil Co., Ltd.), and EMALEX GWIS-160EX (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.).

The amount of component (C) is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range in which the effects of the present invention can be obtained, but it is usually preferably used in the range of 1 to 50% by weight based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition. In this range, the property of improving smoothness and spreadability during application is excellent without impeding the resistance to secondary adhesion and cosmetic staying power provided by components (A) and (B), and good usability with less uneven application is easily obtained.

Component (C) may be one of these alone or two or more of these may be selected and mixed for use.

In addition to the above essential components, the composition of the present invention can also contain components that are generally used in cosmetics, etc., as necessary. For example, additives such as pearling agents, powder components, oily components other than components (B) and (C), thickeners, fragrances, bactericides, preservatives, antioxidants, chelating agents, UV absorbers, UV scattering agents, anti-inflammatory agents, antioxidants, cooling agents, herbal extracts, and vitamins can be added as appropriate. The blending ratio of these components when they are added can be selected appropriately according to their types and purposes, and one type may be used alone, or two or more types may be used in appropriate combination.

The uses of the oil-based solid cosmetic according to this embodiment are not particularly limited, but include makeup cosmetics such as lipstick, foundation, blush, concealer, eye shadow, eyeliner, eyebrow, mascara, makeup base, and hair color, as well as skin care cosmetics such as lip cream, lip balm, eye cream, moisturizing cream, and sunscreen.

Examples of the method for producing the oily solid cosmetic preparation according to the present embodiment include a method in which the cosmetic bulk obtained by mixing and dissolving the above-mentioned components (A), (B), and (C), as well as an oily component, a powder component, and other components, as necessary, is filled into a specified container or mold, and then solidified.

The present invention will be further described below with reference to examples. These examples are not intended to limit the present invention in any way.

The evaluation methods used in each example are described below.

(1) “Secondary adhesion resistance”
On a Bioskin Plate (manufactured by Viewlux), 0.005 g of the oil-based solid cosmetic composition shown in Table 1 was applied uniformly over an area of 12 ^cm2 . A mist of water was sprayed from a distance of 20 cm to the applied area. A tissue folded in half was placed on the surface, and a weight of 400 g was placed on top and pressed for 10 seconds, and the adhesion of the cosmetic was visually evaluated. A specific example of the evaluation criteria is shown in FIG.
◎: Almost no adhesion to tissue (center of Figure 1)
○: A small amount of adhesion to the tissue (left side of Figure 1)
×: Significant adhesion to tissue (right side of Figure 1)

(2) "Cosmetic retention"
A panel of 20 experts in cosmetic evaluation was asked to use the cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples, and each member was asked to rate the "makeup staying power" of each sample on a 5-point scale according to the following evaluation criteria, assigning a score to each sample. Furthermore, the average score of the scores of all the panelists was judged according to the following criteria.
[Score: Evaluation criteria]
5 points: Very good 4 points: Good 3 points: Average 2 points: Slightly poor 1 point: Poor [Judgment criteria (average score)]
◎: 4.5 or more ○: 3.5 or more to less than 4.5 △: 1.5 or more to less than 3.5 ×: Less than 1.5

(2) "Ease of use (light stretchability)"
A panel of 20 experts in cosmetic evaluation was asked to use the cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples, and each member was asked to rate "usability (ease of spreading)" on a 5-point scale according to the following evaluation criteria, assigning a score to each sample, and the average score of the scores of all the panels was then judged according to the following criteria.
[Score: Evaluation criteria]
5 points: Very good 4 points: Good 3 points: Average 2 points: Slightly poor 1 point: Poor [Judgment criteria (average score)]
◎: 4.5 or more ○: 3.5 or more to less than 4.5 △: 1.5 or more to less than 3.5 ×: Less than 1.5

(Preparation methods of Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 14)
Components C and D shown in Table 1 were heated and dissolved at 90-100°C, and then components A to B were added. Components E was dispersed using a roller, added to the above components A to D, and then dispersed using a disperser. The resulting dispersion was re-melted at 90-100°C, degassed, poured into a mold at 95-100°C, and cooled to room temperature. In this way, solid lipsticks were obtained. Solid lipsticks were also produced in the same manner for the comparative examples and the components shown in Table 2.

Tables 1 and 2 show each formulation and the evaluation results.

As is clear from the results in Tables 1 and 2, Examples 1 to 10 of the present invention obtained good results in all evaluation items compared to the comparative examples. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1, which does not contain component (A), did not obtain satisfactory quality in terms of makeup retention and secondary adhesion resistance. Comparative Examples 4 to 6, which used other polyether-modified silicones instead of component (A), did not obtain good results, particularly in terms of makeup retention and secondary adhesion resistance. Comparative Example 2, which does not contain component (B), and Comparative Examples 7 to 9, in which component (B) was replaced with another polyglycerin fatty acid ester or glycerin fatty acid ester, also did not obtain sufficient makeup retention and secondary adhesion resistance. Moreover, Comparative Examples 10 and 13, in which components (B) and (C) were replaced with dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl), respectively, had a high adhesion feeling and was difficult to spread, resulting in unevenness, and it is thought that satisfactory quality was not obtained in terms of secondary adhesion resistance. In Comparative Example 3, which did not contain the component (C), and Comparative Examples 11 and 12, in which the component (C) was replaced with a polyglycerol fatty acid ester or another oil agent, the spread was heavy and the application was uneven, and a satisfactory evaluation was not obtained.

The following are formulation examples of the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention. Each formulation of the composition was prepared in the same manner as described in paragraph [0032], but the preparation method is not particularly limited to this method, and it was confirmed that the effects of the present invention were achieved in each formulation.

Example 11 Lipstick
Ingredients Amount (%)
Lauryl PEG-10 Tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone 15.0
Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 10.0
Glyceryl caprylate 10.0
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 1.3
Synthetic wax 8.0
Microcrystalline wax 3.0
Paraffin 3.0
Carnauba wax 2.0
Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane 10.0
Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone 17.0
Sucrose tetraisostearate 15.0
Silica 2.0
Titanium dioxide 2.0
Iron oxide 1.0
Red 202 0.2
Gunjo 0.2
Antioxidant 0.1
Anti-inflammatory agent 0.1
Plant extract 0.1
Total 100.0
Example 11 was in a stick form and spread well, allowing it to be applied evenly to the lips. It also had excellent resistance to secondary adhesion and makeup lasting power.

Example 12 Cheek Color
Ingredients Amount (%)
Lauryl PEG-10 Tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone 10.0
Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 10.0
Glyceryl laurate 10.0
Ceresin 2.0
Isododecane 3.0
Isotridecyl isononanoate 23.4
Dextrin palmitate 5.0
Cyclopentasiloxane 1.0
Red 202 0.5
Titanium oxide 20.0
Zinc oxide 2.0
Iron oxide 1.0
Mica 2.0
Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer 10.0
Antioxidant 0.1
Total 100.0
Example 12 was in the form of a solid cream and was excellent in resistance to secondary adhesion, cosmetic staying power and usability (light spreadability).

Example 13: Eye Color
Ingredients Amount (%)
Lauryl PEG-10 Tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone 10.0
Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 10.0
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride 10.0
Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone 10.0
Cetyl ethylhexanoate 10.0
Synthetic wax 4.0
(VP/Eicosene) Copolymer 1.0
Silicic acid (Na/Mg) 0.3
Hepta(behenic acid/stearic acid)polyglyceryl-10 0.2
Dipentaerythrityl tetra(hydroxystearate/isostearate) 3.0
Vaseline 1.5
Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer 5.0
Dimethylsilylated silica 0.5
Mica 2.0
Boron nitride 2.0
Synthetic Fluorophlogopite 20.0
Titanium dioxide 10.0
Antioxidant 0.5
Total 100.0
Example 13 was in a pencil shape and spread well, allowing it to be applied evenly to the eyelids. It also had excellent resistance to secondary adhesion, so it did not easily come off even when blinking, and the makeup lasted well.

Claims (2)

An oil-based solid cosmetic preparation comprising the following components (A) to (C):
(A) Lauryl PEG-10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone 5-25%
(B) Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 1 to 50%
(C) 1 to 50% of one or more selected from glyceryl isostearate, tri(palm oil fatty acid/palm kernel oil fatty acid/olive oil fatty acid/macadamia nut oil fatty acid/rapeseed oil fatty acid), and PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate
moreover
Component (D) Diisotridecyl malate
The oily solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 , comprising :