FR3161367A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL RESIN, A CELLULOSE ETHER, A PARTICULAR POLYESTER, VOLATILE COMPOUNDS AND AT LEAST ONE FILLER, AND METHOD FOR USING IT - Google Patents

Abstract

Title: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL RESIN, A CELLULOSE ETHER, A PARTICULAR POLYESTER, VOLATILE COMPOUNDS AND A FILLER, AND METHOD FOR IMPLEMENTING IT The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising: - at least one natural resin, - at least one alkylcellulose whose alkyl group is C2-C3, - at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 (ii) at least one dimer acid, and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of acid dimer and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monoacid,- at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol,- at least one volatile oil;- optionally at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the aforementioned polyester, or silicone, as well as mixtures thereof;- at least one filler. It also relates to a process for treating human keratin materials, in particular makeup, in which this composition is applied to said keratin materials.

Description

A COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL RESIN, A CELLULOSE ETHER, A SPECIAL POLYESTER, VOLATILE COMPOUNDS AND AT LEAST ONE FILLER, AND THE PROCESS FOR ITS IMPLEMENTATION

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably makeup, particularly for the skin and/or lips, preferably for the lips, comprising at least one natural resin, at least one alkylcellulose, at least one polyester obtained by reaction of a polyglycerol-3, a dimeric acid and a C8-C30 monoacid, at least one monoalcohol, at least one volatile oil and at least one filler, as well as a process implementing it.

Many cosmetic formulations, particularly makeup containing colorants such as foundations, concealers, lipsticks, and lip glosses, have been developed to improve application longevity and transfer resistance. Indeed, poor longevity can result in fading or loss of color intensity. This forces the user to reapply makeup more often than desired, which can be considered a waste of time.

Improving the staying power of lip products is achieved through formulations that form a film after application. Such formulations generally contain volatile solvents that evaporate upon contact with the skin or lips, leaving behind a layer composed of waxes and/or film-forming polymers, pigments, and fillers. Film-forming polymers are synthetic polymers, often silicone or acrylic. Examples include silicone resins, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name), or those containing silicone polymers like silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer (INCI name)). Acrylic polymers such as Acrylic Acid/Isobutyl Acrylate/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer are also used. However, these formulations are often considered less comfortable, or even uncomfortable, from a sensory perspective for consumers.

Furthermore, in recent years, consumers have become more demanding regarding the composition of their cosmetic products and are particularly seeking to minimize the content of silicone compounds, or even to eliminate them altogether. In return, they are looking to use products with a higher content of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients with a minimized environmental impact, and/or ingredients that are compatible with a wide range of packaging.

Therefore, formulating environmentally friendly cosmetic products—that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account—is becoming a major concern in order to help address global challenges. It is thus essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and/or ingredients that can meet these environmental challenges.

In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and/or with a good naturalness index and/or of natural origin, and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

The difficulty remains, however, in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance they have become accustomed to with the products they already use, which include silicone film-forming polymers.

We are therefore still looking for high-performance, comfortable makeup compositions that also have very good staying power, without the need to use the film-forming polymers classically used, particularly silicone polymers, and which are more environmentally friendly, for example by using more natural or naturally derived compounds.

These problems and others are solved by the present invention, which relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably makeup, of human keratinous materials, in particular skin and/or lips, preferably lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
- at least one natural resin,
- at least one alkylcellulose with the alkyl group in the C2-C3 position, preferably ethylcellulose,
- at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):
(i) at least one polyglycerol-3
(ii) at least one dimeric acid, and
(iii) at least one fatty acid mono-acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid,
- at least one monoalcohol in the C2-C6 range, more particularly in the C2-C4 range, preferably ethanol,
- at least one volatile oil,
- possibly at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, other than the aforementioned polyester, or a silicone oil, as well as mixtures thereof
- at least one charge.

The present invention also relates to a method for processing human keratinous materials, preferably makeup, in which the aforementioned cosmetic composition is applied to human keratinous materials, in particular the skin and/or lips, preferably the lips.

The composition according to the invention has the advantage of being stable over time, easy to apply, and does not dewet during application or blotting. Furthermore, the resulting deposit is precise, homogeneous, non-stringy, and slightly or not at all sticky. The deposit does not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines, particularly around the lips.

The resulting coating has excellent hold. It is also comfortable, without leaving any feeling of dryness or tightness.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a liquid composition.

The term "liquid composition" refers to any composition that exhibits one or more of the following characteristics:

i) flows by its own weight at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 .10 ⁵ Pa);

ii) is not solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and whose viscosity or consistency, characterized by its hardness, can be measured;

iii) does not have any particular shape such as that which can be obtained by hot casting in a mold or container of a given shape.

Such compositions can therefore be found in particular in fluid, creamy, pasty or gel form.

Protocol for measuring viscosity

Viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2, No. 3 or No. 4 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of spindle rotation within the composition (time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and the spindle rotation speed is observed), at a speed of 200 revolutions/min (rpm).

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can have a viscosity at 25°C of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 0.2 and 20 Pa.s. Preferably, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention can be between 0.2 and 15 Pa.s.

POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYESTER/DIMER ACID/FATTY MONO ACID

The composition according to the invention includes at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):
(i) at least one polyglycerol-3;
(ii) at least one dimeric acid; and
(iii) at least one fatty acid mono-acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.

The term "polyester" refers to any polymer obtained by the condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular skeleton contains repeating ester groups. An ester group is a characteristic group formed by an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic ester, whose general formula is R-COO-R'.

By "polyglycerol-3" is meant triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; and preferably triglycerol is the major component in said mixture.

The polyesters of the invention are described together with their synthesis in US patent applications 2021/0259945, US 2021/0259946 and US 2021/0259930 in the name of the company Nouryon.

According to a preferred embodiment, polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

By "substantially non-sequential reaction product", we mean the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii).

By "totally non-sequential reaction of reactant components (i)-(iii)", we mean that the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins; that is, the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, 75-100%, 80-100%, 85-100%, 90-100%, 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) are added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins.

In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

Polyglycerol-3

Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly] ₃ -OH in which Gly denotes a remnant of glycerol after the removal of two hydroxyl groups.

A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention, in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol, comprises polyglycerols that may be any oligocondensation product of glycerol. Said polyglycerols preferably conform to the formula (I): H[-O-Gly-]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after the removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

Generally, most Gly groups are of the formula: -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -, although residues including etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the "Gly" category and, therefore, may also be present.

Examples of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol, and mixtures thereof. Notably, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n is particularly from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5, and especially 2, 3, or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols within these ranges.

Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution in which all weight percentages are based relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture.
- glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0 to 15% by weight;
- diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 32% by weight;
- triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, preferably 18 to 55% by weight;
- tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 8 to 20% by weight;
- pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight;
- hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight;
- heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight;
- octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight;
- nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight;
- decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight.

In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 mixture comprises the following polyglycerol distribution:
Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight;
Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight;
Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight;
Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight;
Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture.

In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 mixture is composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 mixture.

In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; wherein all the weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 as a mixture.

A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition can be performed to determine its median or "mean" polyglycerol number. The polyglycerol examples above with narrow and broad distributions can also be designated as polyglycerol-3, as this is the integer closest to the mean and/or median.

Dimer acid

The dimeric acid can be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They can be linear or branched, such as the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, they are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, see the publication "The Dimer Acids: The chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. E.C. Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

Dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture should not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

Preferred dimeric acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C18 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce C18 unsaturated mono-fatty acids. Raw materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybeans, pumpkin seeds, and walnuts can be used. The target mono-acids used in the reaction are rich in the forms of oleic and linoleic acids described in the fatty acid list below. Dimerization primarily leads to the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored as a mixture of reaction products or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions. In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimeric acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

In one case, a standard dimeric acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, is used, which contains 72% by weight of dimer and 19% by weight of trimer acid.

In another case, a standard hydrogenated dimeric acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, is used, which contains 87 wt% dimer and 10 wt% trimeric acid. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, greater hydrophobicity, and higher viscosity than can be achieved with pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of the trimeric acid further improves the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid.

In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimeric acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimeric acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C18 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or better still at most 90% by weight, or even better at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight).

Mono fatty acid

C8-C30 monofatty acids can include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but these contain both lower and higher molecular weight chains. Useful monofatty acids can be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic, with acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.

Acids suitable for the invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecyl acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

A comparison of stearic and isostearic acids shows that branching leads to a high melting point and low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid state for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also allows esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl group along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isotearic acid is available as a reaction byproduct in the creation of the dimeric acid described above.

Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use linear and branched unsaturated mono-fatty acids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:1), gondolic acid (C20:1), dihomo-γ-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), and erucic acid. (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6), and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the designation means that the carbon chain is X carbon atoms long; and there are Y double bonds in the chain.

In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components:
(i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form;
(ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and
iii) isostearic acid.

In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of 20% to 40%. Most importantly, the degree of esterification by the endcap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description, and it is important to maintain the monoacid esterification at 4% to 40%.

It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid between 13% and 20%.

It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid between 4% and 40%.

It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

It is also even more preferable to have also preferred a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

In one embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid termination and balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, leads to much higher viscosities.

The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 mPa.s and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75,000 mPa.s and
< 2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

Viscosity was measured using an Anton Paar Inc. MCR3O2® rheometer. Twin flat plates, either rough or smooth, 50 mm in diameter, were used, coated with a polymer sample, fitted with a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. Furthermore, the polymers described have demonstrated a decrease in viscosity with temperature. Thus, viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally as a shear rate of 1. Values are reported in mPa·s.

The polyesters of the invention are characterized by average molecular masses by weight > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

The GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of tetrahydrofuran (THF) was injected at 0.35 mL/min, with the column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 µL injection; and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended for monodisperse. The narrow-range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da; and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the average weight and number molecular weights were automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight-average molecular weight > 4,000 Da and < 250,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a most preferred embodiment, the described polymers have a weight-average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of average molecular mass by weight > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity at 25°C > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components:
(i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form;
(ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and
(iii) isostearic acid; wherein the polymer exhibits a weight-average molecular weight combination > 5,000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and a viscosity of the pure polymer > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C; and wherein the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

In practice, since the raw ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl and carboxylic acid fractions as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR, and liquid chromatography. The esterification ranges above are based on the ideal structure of polyglycerol-3 and the C36 dimer acid. Therefore, the actual ranges may differ slightly from the values shown above and can be calculated based on these analytical values.

It is more practical to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid value. The initial acid values, based on the distribution of polyglycerol, monoacid, and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined by the raw ingredient used.

For example, the initial total acid value (TAV, commonly defined as mg KOH/g total reagent) is 135 TAV. This includes 68 TAV for the dimer acid and 67 TAV for the isostearic acid in a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid, and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial TAV that can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the TAV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

Thus, the completion rate of the reaction is defined by 1 - final AV/initial AV.

In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 25 mg KOH/g of polymer.

In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 10 mg KOH/g of polymer.

In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 5 mg KOH/g of polymer.

Since the completion rate of the reaction is defined by the equation 1- final AV/initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures in the final polymer is > 80%.

In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 90%.

In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 95%.

In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1/0.5/1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of US document 2021/0259945.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising:
a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):
(i) at least one polyglycerol-3;
(ii) at least one dimeric acid; and
(iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and
b) at least one non-volatile oil.

The said non-volatile oil(s) may be chosen from those which will be described later.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the oily solution comprises, as non-volatile oil(s), at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride).

The polyester oil solution can be obtained by mixing polyester with non-volatile oil or oils at approximately 80-100°C. The mixture is then further cooled to 50-70°C before being removed from the reactor and stored.

The said polyester oil solution preferably contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic/capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid, and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution in a molar ratio of 1/0.5/1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of US document 2021/0259945.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising:
a) a polyester obtained by reaction
(i) of a polyglycerol-3, and
(ii) of a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and
(iii) isostearic acid;
components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and
b) a caprylic/capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.

Such an oily solution is marketed under the name Solamaze Natural® by the company Nouryon comprising 60% by weight of polyester active matter and 40% by weight of a caprylic/capric acid triglyceride relative to the total weight of the oily solution.

According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of active polyester material varies from 2.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NATURAL RESIN

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one natural resin.

A resin is generally defined as a solid, highly viscous or liquid substance of plant or synthetic origin. Resins have several specific characteristics, such as:

- the ability to harden permanently, for example for synthetics under the influence of temperature and for naturals under the influence of oxygen;

- their insolubility in water and especially their good sticky and adhesive properties.

The ISO4618:2014(fr) standard defines a resin as a "generally amorphous macromolecular product, with a consistency ranging from solid to liquid".

Natural resins are almost exclusively of plant origin (fossilized or harvested), and are secreted and then exuded from plants for defense, protection, and communication purposes within their ecosystem. Shellac, of animal origin, secreted by the insect Coccus lacca, is an exception.

By "natural resin", and in particular "plant resin", in the sense of the invention, is meant any substance comprising a minimum content of terpenic compounds, that is to say of at least 30% by weight of terpenic compounds on the total weight of the substance (or material) in question, as chemically defined below, said substance being derived directly or indirectly, from the secretion and exudation, mainly by plants (more rarely by animals), of a substance for roles of defense, protection and communication with their ecosystem.

Advantageously, the natural resin according to the invention is not soluble in water at room temperature (unlike latex or gums, for example).

Natural resins are also considered natural adhesives that have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably on their own without synthetic chemistry.

Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number-average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g/mol. The resin preferably has a number-average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g/mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 10,000 g/mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g/mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g/mol, better, less than or equal to 2,000 g/mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g/mol, and even better, less than or equal to 1,000 g/mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 1,000 g/mol. The number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector).

Thermal properties

Advantageously, the resins according to the invention are characterized by the fact that they have a softening point, which designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating.

Preferably, the resins of the invention have a softening point (or temperature) in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably from 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 40°C to 90°C.

The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain degree of softening under standardized conditions. It refers to the temperature at which a product transitions from a semi-solid to a plastic state upon heating. It is measurable using the ball-and-ring method (or BAT, ball-and-ring temperature) for resins according to ASTM E284.

Depending on their class, some of the resins according to the invention may also have a melting temperature, preferably below 360°C, preferably below 190°C, and even more preferably below 90°C.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins do not exhibit a melting point.

The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of that substance can coexist in equilibrium.

Preferably, the resins of the invention have a glass transition temperature, this being preferably in the range of 0 to 200°C, more preferably from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C.

The glass transition temperature (Tv, or in English: Tg for glass) of a material represents the temperature range through which the material passes from a rubbery state to a glassy, solid (rigid) state.

The thermal properties, in particular the Tf and Tg values of the resins, can be measured by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example using a Perkin Elmer DSC 8000 instrument, according to:

- Protocol 1: Determination of melting temperatures Tf and crystallization temperatures Tc: Raw materials alone or solubilized / dispersed in solvents, stainless steel cups, scanning from 5 °C to 90 °C, scanning speed at 5°C.min-1;

- Protocol 2: Determination of the glass transition temperature Tg: measurement during the second heating. Aluminum cups (40 μL) containing the raw materials are used. A temperature sweep between -100°C and 150°C (with isotherms) is performed to observe the glass transition temperature. The temperature ramp applied is 10°C/min for the glass transition temperatures (2 cycles).

Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds whose presence and content define the class of the resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.): essential oils, neutral and acidic constituents and polysaccharides (present exclusively in gums).

The characteristic components of resins are the terpene compounds they contain, preferably with a content of at least 30% by weight, on the weight of resin.

By “terpenic compounds” we mean terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene with the general formula (C5H8)n, and their many derivatives (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids…) comprising a terpene structure (Académie de Montpellier. Resins: https://tice.ac-montpellier.fr/ABCDORGA/Famille/Terpenes.html).

Among terpene hydrocarbons, we distinguish: monoterpenes with the molecular formula C10H16 (n=2), sesquiterpenes with the molecular formula C15H24 (n=3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), sesterterpenes (C25H40) (n=5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8), and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they contain a number of double bonds corresponding to their molecular formula: 3 for C10H16; 5 for C20H32; 7 for C30H48. Others have one or more rings, or a smaller number of double bonds; for example, C10H16 has one ring and two double bonds, or two rings and one double bond.

Advantageously, the resins of the invention contain at least 30% terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% terpene compounds, or better yet at least 70%, by weight on the total weight of resin or resinous substance used as raw material in the composition according to the invention.

Monoterpene and sesquiterpene compounds are mostly volatile compounds, constituting, for example, essential oils. Polyterpene compounds derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4 (such as diterpene and triterpene derivatives) are resinous compounds of a rather solid nature.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, i.e., compounds derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4, in relation to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Resins exhibiting a solid fraction at room temperature (25°C) are preferred. Advantageously, the resins used according to the invention are not volatile.

Advantageously, the polyterpene compounds of the resins or resinous substances used in the composition of the invention are predominantly (more than 50% by weight of the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and/or triterpenes.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise less than 70% by weight of monoterpenic or sesquiterpenic compounds, i.e., compounds derived from terpenes with n less than 4, in proportion to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Preferably, said resins comprise less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpenic or sesquiterpenic compounds derived from terpenes with n less than 4, in proportion to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. For the compositions of the invention, it is therefore preferable to limit the use of the most volatile resins, as they are less effective in terms of cosmetic film adhesion.

Advantageously, the natural resin(s) according to the invention are selected from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) asphaltite and gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (in particular Kauri copal resins, Manila copal resins, West African copals such as those from Congo, Angola or Cameroon, East African copals such as those from Zanzibar or Madagascar, South American copals such as those from Brazil or Colombia), i) damars, j) elemis, k) frankincense, l) galbanums, m) labdanums, n) mastics, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) Shellac, r) Styrax (Storax), s) Venice turpentine (Larch, Essence of turpentine), t) Colophons, in particular Rosin and rosinate and Tall oils, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes; and mixtures of these resins.

Preferably the natural resin(s) used according to the invention are chosen from j), k), t) and v); it is understood that the resin(s) of the invention may be esterified, salified, form adducts, be modified by phenols, and/or dimerized and/or further hydrogenated.

j) The elems

"Elemis" is the generic term for a group of recent natural resins derived from plants of the Burseraceae family (Canarium indicum). Each type is described according to its country of origin. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the elemi resin used comes from the Philippines, specifically Manila elemi. To extract it, the trees are wounded, and a flow of pathological resin appears, which solidifies over time. Elemi resins are yellowish to greenish in color, opaque, ointment-like, sticky, and solidify into brownish resins studded with crystals.

Elemi are soluble in aromatic solvents, alcohols, esters, and carbon disulfide; and less soluble in aliphatic solvents. Elemi have an acid value between 18 and 34, a saponification value between 25 and 60, and a softening point of approximately 80. Balms exuding elemi contain up to 30% essential oils.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from among the elemi species, in particular elemi from the Canarium Luzonicum family, in its pure form or mixed with a latex, for example. One example is the elemi resin from Canarium Luzonicum, marketed under the name ELEMI RESIN.

k) Incense

Frankincense is found in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia, and eastern India. Frankincense resins are a recent development, extracted from the frankincense tree Boswellia carterii. Frankincense resins are also found in the Amazon. The bark is intentionally damaged to obtain a milky extract, which is collected after drying. Preferably, the resin(s) of the invention are selected from frankincense, particularly from the Amazon.

Frankincense resins are pale yellow and form irregular, rounded or globular beads. They generally contain 20% to 40% by weight (approximately 33%) of boswellic acid (C32H52O4). Frankincense has an acid value between 30% and 50% (indirect) and is moderately soluble in ethanol in alkaline environments.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin or resins of the invention are chosen from among the incenses, in particular the Amazonian incense resins marketed under the name Protium heptaphyllum resin, or PROTIUM RESIN, or WHITE BREU RESIN, and the incense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea robusta.

Advantageously, the resin(s) are found in a mixture with one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Examples include Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol: 50-75% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 25-50% by weight Sunflower Seed Oil) marketed under the name Kahlresin 6720, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol (Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol: 50-70% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed as Kahlresin 6720.

t) Rosins

Preferably, the natural resin(s) are chosen from among the rosins. Rosins are recent resins, from renewable resources, and can be modified (e.g., esterified, hydrogenated, substituted).

Rosin gums are preferably purified, distilled, from the balsam of various pine essences (up to 80 different species).

Their composition is determined by climate, soil composition, and other botanical and meteorological factors. For example, we can mention the rosins from Pinus austriaca (black pine) Austria, Central America, caribaea (slash pine), United States, Caribbean, densiflora Japan, elliottii United States, halepensis (Aleppo pine) Greece, Portugal, Spain, langifolia India, maritima (seashore pine) France, Spain, Portugal, massoniana (Chinese red pine) China, mercusii Indonesia, Burma, Philippines, nigra (black pine) Austria, oocarpa Central America, Honduras, palustris (swamp pine), United States, (longleaf pine), pseudostrobus Central America, Mexico, sylvestris (Scots pine) Germany, Poland, tonkinensis China, yunnanensis China.

The average composition is approximately 70 to 75% rosin and 20 to 25% turpentine oil.

Wood rosin [8050-09-7]

Rosin comes from stumps in the USA that have remained in the ground for at least 10 years so that the resin-rich heartwood is available.

Pine stumps contain between 10 and 30% by weight (approx. 19% rosin), between 1 and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) turpentine oil, between 1 and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) petroleum ether-insoluble resins, between 20 and 30% by weight (preferably 23%) water and between 40 and 60% by weight (preferably 50%) cellulose and lignin-type material.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from among the rosins.

Tall oils colophony (Rosin and rosinate) [8052-10-6]

Tall oils in rosins often contain small amounts of higher fatty acids, particularly those with six or more carbon atoms. In one embodiment, tall oils in rosins are free of oxocarboxylic acid. They are particularly soluble in organic solvents.

The rosin resins of the invention comprise in particular rosin acids belonging to the terpenes. The numbering of the carbon atoms in the rosin acid molecules is indicated using abietic acid as an example.

Rosin acids have the molecular chemical formula C20H30O2 and therefore belong to the diterpene family (four isoprene units). A large number of tricyclic rosin acid isomers exist, differing in the position of the two double bonds.

Advantageously, the resin according to the invention is selected from: gum rosin obtained by incision in living trees, wood rosin extracted from pine stumps or wood, and tall oil rosin obtained from a by-product of paper production. Advantageously, the resin(s) comprise rosin acids; preferably predominantly selected from abietic and pimaric acids; and in particular selected from: levopimaric acid, neoabietic acid, abietic acid, dehydroabietic acid, tetrahydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid, dextropimaric acid, isodextropimaric acid; or palustric acid; and mixtures thereof.

Rosin derivatives can be obtained, in particular, from the polymerization, hydrogenation, and/or esterification (for example, with polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, and pentaerythritol) of rosin acids. Examples include rosin esters marketed under the names Foral 85, Pentalyn H, and Staybelite Ester 10 by Hercules; Sylvatac 95 and Zonester 85 by Arizona Chemical; and Unirez 3013 by Union Camp.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from among the rosinates (salts of alkaline agents of rosin acids, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metals such as calcium, or metals such as zinc, or magnesium).

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from esters of rosin acid, in particular esters of rosin acid as defined above and of (C1-C6) alkanol, of polyhydroxy(C1-C6)alkane polyols such as glycerol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from glyceryl rosinate marketed under the name Resiester Gum A 35, glyceryl rosinate in mixture with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and/or castor seed oil (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil marketed under the name EFP Biotek), Pentaerythrityl Rosinate marketed under the name Resiester N 35 S and Resiester 80.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from poly(carboxy)(C2-C6) alkane or poly(carboxy)(C2-C6) alkene adducts, in particular maleic acids with rosin acids.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosins modified by phenols. In particular those modified by (C1-C4) alkylene phenols or diphenols, possibly substituted by one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl or t-butyl, more particularly rosins modified by 4-tert-butylphenol and 4,4’-isopropylidenediphenol (bisphenol A).

According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are selected from dimerized rosins; in particular those in which abietic acid is polymerized. Preferably, the rosins contain more than 50% dimeric acids and are thus called dimerized rosins. In one embodiment, the rosins are polymerized and contain from 30% to 90% by weight of dimeric acid (in particular at least 40%, 60%, or 80% dimeric acids).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are selected from hydrogenated rosins. The double bonds, particularly those of acids such as abietic acid, are subject to oxidation, which can be eliminated by hydrogenation. It is understood that the resin(s) of the invention may be esterified, salified, adducted, modified with phenols, and/or dimerized and further hydrogenated.

According to a preferred embodiment, the resin comprises at least one rosin acid ester selected from the group consisting of glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, hydrogenated dilinoleyl dimer rosinate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate, glyceryl dibehenate/hydrogenated rosinate, glyceryl diisostearate/hydrogenated rosinate, trihydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate; and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (Pentaerythrityl Hydrogenated Rosinate), hydrogenated methyl rosinate (Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate) marketed under the name Symrise BIO4326.

Furthermore, the resin(s) of the invention may be mixed with fatty substances, in particular waxes or butters. Examples include mixtures of glyceryl rosinate with one or more fatty substances, particularly waxes or butters, such as mixtures with shea butter or olive oil, such as (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Glyceryl Rosinate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables Glyceryl Rosinate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables, marketed by Shea Butter & Glyceryl Rosinate & Oils.

(v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes

Natural plant waxes, as such, are not considered resins. Although they are among the substances secreted/excreted by plants and naturally contain a very low resin content, they contain less than 30% terpenes by weight relative to the total wax weight. For example, carnauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of the Copernica cerifera palm to prevent the leaves from dehydrating. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia antisyphilitica, native to northern Mexico. The wax protects the plant from its environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax consists mainly of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains of 29 to 33 carbon atoms), higher molecular weight esters (20 to 29%), free acids (7 to 9%), and resins (12–14%, mainly triterpenic esters).

However, the definition of "natural resins" within the meaning of the present invention also includes resins derived from vegetable waxes, when they have been previously concentrated, isolated, or extracted from these waxes, provided that the resinous or terpene ingredient in question contains the minimum terpene content (30% by weight of the total weight of the ingredient) required by the present invention. One example is Candelilla resin (100% pure resin extracted from the corresponding wax), with the INCI name Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract, marketed under the name Candelilla Resin E-1 by Japan Natural Products. Document WO2013/147113 A1 also refers to Carnauba resin, a terpene resin extracted from Carnauba wax, which has physical properties similar to those of conventionally described natural resins, such as a softening temperature rather than a melting temperature, which distinguishes resin from wax.

Resins have a softening point and a glass transition temperature, but no melting temperature.

The opposite is true in the case of waxes which have a melting point.

Preferably the resin(s) are chosen from resin(s) j), k), and t) as defined above, and resin(s) v) extracted from waxes, in particular candelilla, or carnauba; and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from the following references, indicated by their INCI name, used alone or in mixture:

- resins extracted from vegetable waxes (type v resins), preferably extracts of Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax (INCI name: Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract), such as Candelilla Resin E-1 marketed by Japan Natural Products, Botanical Resin marketed by Cera Rica Noda, Towax-1F12 marketed by Toa Kasei; or candelilla resin marketed by Multiceras;

- incense resins (type k resins), preferably Protium Heptaphyllum Resin (INCI name), or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, which can be marketed for example by Citroleo or Ephyla;

- Frankincense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea Robusta Resin (INCI name). The resin(s) may be found mixed with one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Examples include Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol: 50-75% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 25-50% by weight Sunflower Seed Oil) marketed under the name Kahlresin 6720, and Shorea Robusta resin with octyldodecanol (Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol: 50-70% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed as Kahlresin 6720 (type k resin); and

- rosins (t-type resins), preferably rosin acid esters such as Glyceryl Rosinate (INCI name) marketed under the name Resiester Gum A 35, Glyceryl Rosinate mixed with hydrogenated vegetable oil and/or castor seed oil (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil marketed under the name EFP Biotek), Pentaerythrityl Rosinate marketed under the names Resiester N 35 S and Resiester 80 or hydrogenated rosinates such as hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (Pentaerythrityl Hydrogenated Rosinate) or hydrogenated methyl rosinate (Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate) marketed under the name Symrise BIO4326.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are selected from resins extracted from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax, frankincense resins such as Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, frankincense resins from the Sal tree such as Shorea Robusta resin, and Glyceryl Rosinate.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin or resins are chosen from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract.

Advantageously, the resin(s) is/are present in the composition of the invention in a content, expressed as active matter, ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 3% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

ALKYLCELLULOSE

The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one alkylcellulose whose alkyl portion is in C2-C3, and preferably ethylcellulose.

Ethylcellulose is an alkyl ether of cellulose comprising a chain of β-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of which can react according to the following reaction:
RONa + R'Cl ROR' + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical and R' represents an ethyl or propyl radical, preferably ethyl.

The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead to a degree of substitution of 3 for each anhydroglucose unit, in other words to an alkoxy group content of 54.88%.

The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising an ethoxy group content ranging from 44 to 50%.

Alkylcellulose, in particular ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention, is more particularly found in powder form.

For example, it is marketed under the trade names "Ethocel Standard" by Dow Chemicals, including "Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium" and "Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium". Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon EC type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7 and N100, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

Advantageously, the alkylcellulose content, preferably ethylcellulose, expressed as active matter, varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 15% by weight, more advantageously from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

MONOALCOHOL C2-C6

As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol, more particularly a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably saturated. The monoalcohol(s) may be represented, for example, by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. Examples of monoalcohols include ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, or butanol, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, said monoalcohol comprises at least ethanol, and even more preferably, the monoalcohol is ethanol.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the monoalcohol content represents from 5 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

VOLATILE OILS

The composition also includes at least one volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone oil, as well as mixtures thereof.

The term "oil" refers to any lipophilic compound that is in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The volatile oil(s) are chosen from among non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, alone or in mixture.

For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably ranging from 0.5 Pa to 8,000 Pa (OECD standard 104).

By “nonpolar hydrocarbon oil”, we mean an oil chosen from among hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

The term "siliconized oil" refers to an oil containing at least one group
Si-O, and more specifically an organopolysiloxane.

The nonpolar hydrocarbon volatile oils usable within the framework of the invention are more particularly chosen from oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and their mixtures.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can thus be chosen from among the volatile linear alkanes comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

Examples of linear alkanes, particularly in the C8-C14 range, include n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. Notable examples include n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), sold by Sasol under the brand names Parafol 12 97® and Parafol 14 97®, respectively, as well as mixtures thereof. In another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane can be used, specifically the dodecane/tetradecane mixture marketed by Biosynthis under the brand name Vegelight 1214®. According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes with the INCI name C9-12 Alkane, such as the product marketed by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight SILK®, can also be used. In yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) can be used, such as those obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis application WO2008/155059 and such as that sold under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate® by BASF.

We can also mention the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007/068371 and WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves derived from coconut or palm oil.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among the C8-C16 branched alkanes. Examples include C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®.

Examples of volatile silicone oils usable in the invention include volatile silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils usable in the invention include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, even more particularly selected from C8-C16 branched alkanes, from C8-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, and in particular isododecane, mixtures of C9-C12 volatile linear alkanes and mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the content of volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon(s), represents 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, if the composition includes at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, then its content does not exceed 5% by weight, and more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of it.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of monoalcohol(s) is less than 3.5 and even more preferably less than 1.5.

NON-VOLATILE OILS

The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, other than the aforementioned polyester, or silicone oil, as well as mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic groups. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

By "non-volatile oil" we mean an oil whose vapor pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.13 Pa. As an example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

Polar hydrocarbon oils

The term "polar hydrocarbon oil" refers to oils that, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, contain at least one oxygen atom. Thus, such a hydrocarbon oil includes at least one hydroxyl, ester, ether, and/or carboxyl group.

The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise at least one polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil, more particularly selected from:
* Fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in _C10 - _C26 , preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. More particularly, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
* Ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably in _C3 - _C16 ;
* the esters chosen from:
- hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils;
- ester oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms;
- liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated acid, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and a polyol;
* as well as their mixtures.

Preferably, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from:
- lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; preferably octyldodecanol;
- dicaprylyl ether;
- dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate;
- castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame oil, pumpkin seed oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, flaxseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter and mixtures thereof;
- ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, _C12 - _C15 alcohol benzoates, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, neopentylglycol dicaprate, tri-decyl-2 glyceryl tetradecanoate, capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, _C18-36 acid triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate, triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate; isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate,
- the polyesters with the following INCI names: Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate,
- as well as their mixtures.

Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils

Non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil can be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable, or synthetic origin, such as, for example:
- paraffin oil,
- squalane, particularly of plant origin,
- isoeicosane,
- mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L15 and L19 marketed by SEPPIC,
- Polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers,
- Polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, the non-volatile compounds in the Parléam® range marketed by Nippon Oil & Fat,
- Polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, non-volatile compounds from the Silkflo range marketed by Ineos, and Dekanex by IMCD,
- and their mixtures.

Non-volatile silicone oils

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, comprising or not at least one dimethicone fragment, or at least one non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, or mixtures thereof.

The term "phenylated" specifies that the oil in question contains at least one phenyl radical in its structure.

The term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl groups, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula:
-(Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ -O)-.

Preferably, silicones do not contain _C2 - _C3 alkylene oxide groups or glycerol groups.

Examples of non-volatile phenyl oils containing at least one dimethicone fragment include oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Diphenyl Dimethicone is notably marketed by Shin Etsu under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53d, and KF-50-100CS. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, for example, is marketed by Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20.

Among the non-volatile phenylated silicone oils lacking dimethicone fragments, the following compounds with INCI names may be cited: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures. Suitable non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils for the implementation of the invention include those marketed by Wacker under the Belsil DM brand, by Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid brand, and by Shin Etsu with the KF-96 A brand.

Representative examples of non-phenylated, non-volatile silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes and alkyldimethicones. Note that "Dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name). Preferably, these non-phenylated, non-volatile silicone oils are selected from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones containing at least one _C2 - _C24 alkyl group; and mixtures thereof. Thus, these oils can be selected from Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, and Stearyl Dimethicone, alone or in mixtures. Suitable non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils include those marketed by Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and by Shin Etsu with the KF-96 A range. Alkyldimethicone can be marketed, for example, under the trade names Abil Wax 9800, Abil Wax 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid, Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax from Dow Corning; and their mixtures.

Preferably, if the composition includes it, the non-volatile oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils alone or in mixtures, different from the aforementioned polyester, in particular chosen from alcohol oils, esters.

According to a further preferred embodiment, if the composition includes them, the non-volatile oil(s) is/are selected from octyldodecanol, vegetable oils, ester oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from octyldodecanol, fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition includes at least one non-volatile oil chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils, other than the aforementioned polyester, in particular from fatty alcohols, esters, and mixtures thereof.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil selected from fatty alcohols, vegetable oils, ester oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride).

If the composition includes them, the content of non-volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon(s), varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, if the composition includes at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, then its content does not exceed 5% by weight, and more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of it.

CHARGES

Compositions according to the invention comprise at least one filler.

The fillers can be inorganic or organic.

Preferably, they can be chosen from natural or naturally sourced fillers.

By “natural charge” or “natural compound” we mean a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

The terms "naturally derived ingredient" or "naturally derived compound" refer to a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of the compound, and/or a compound consisting primarily of natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations. As a non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatments that result in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, we can mention those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference Guide for Organic and Ecological Cosmetic Products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Tissue Magazine," 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

The charge particles usable within the framework of the invention preferably have an average size (d(50) in volume) less than or equal to 40 µm, preferably ranging from 1 to 20 µm, even more preferably from 2 to 15 µm.

Particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar or platelet, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

More specifically, the terms "lamellar shape" or "platelet shape" refer to particles whose form is characterized by three dimensions: length, width, and height (also called thickness); the length and width being greater than the thickness. More specifically, the ratio of the largest dimension of the lamella/platelet to the height (or thickness) of the lamella/platelet is greater than or equal to 5. For the purposes of this invention, the "largest dimension" of the lamellae or platelets is understood to be the diameter of the sphere in which said lamella or platelet is inscribed. The dimensions of the particles are determined by scanning electron microscopy and image analysis.

For the purposes of this invention, spherical particles are defined as particles having an average circularity parameter of at least 0.80, preferably at least 0.82, and even more preferably at least 0.9. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disk having the same area as the particle to the particle's perimeter. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.

The "average circularity" can be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average circularity" can be an arithmetic mean of circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of no less than 2000 silica particles, observed at a magnification of 1000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

The "circularity" of each silica particle is a value determined by the following formula: C = 4πS / ^L² , where C represents circularity, S represents an area (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents the length of a periphery (perimeter) of the silica particle in the image. As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each particle becomes more spherical.

The fillers may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with amino acids or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Mineral fillers

Examples of mineral fillers include, alone or in mixtures, talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, unmodified clays, such as smectites, and preferably unmodified hectorite, diatomaceous earth, kaolin, kaolin and halloysite, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate possibly combined with lauroyl lysine, silica combined with lauroyl lysine, glass microcapsules, borosilicates or ceramics, and silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass.

Regarding natural micas, examples include products marketed under the names Sericite by SL Horie Kako; Mearlmica-SV by Sun Chemicals; and Sumicos Velvet by Sudarshan Chemical. As for synthetic micas, suitable products include Synafil S 1050 by Exckart and NHS-S-100 by Myoshi Kasei (INCI name: Mica (and) Isostearyl Sebacate (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide).

As an example of unmodified clay and more specifically unmodified hectorite, one can notably mention that marketed by Elementis under the name Bentone EW or Hydroclay 2000 LO.

Suitable diatomaceous earth products include those from the ImerCare D range by Imerys, for example ImerCare03D, ImerCare06D, ImerCare 400D, ImerCare Vistalskin.

Examples of silica, preferably amorphous, preferably in spherical form, hollow or not, include the following commercial products: Silica 35 Beads SB-150®, SB-300® or SB 700®, preferably SB 300® from Myoshi Kasei; the Sunsphere® range from Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, notably Sunsphere H-51® or Sunsphere 12L®, Sunsphere H-201®, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 8® from Sunjin; Spherica P-1500® from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere® from Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl® and Satinier® ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more specifically the Satinier M13® and Satinier M16 silicas, the MSS-500® silicas from KOBO, and more specifically the MSS-500-20N®, as well as the Silica Shells® from KOBO, and the BA4 silicas from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals.

Examples of talc include J 68 BC® products marketed by US Cosmetics; Imercare Pharma 00T® by Imerys; kaolin includes Imercare 04K®, Supreme® by Imerys; the product sold under the trade name Beraca Amazonian White Clay® by Beraca ingr. Naturais (Clariant); and the product sold under the trade name FJK-16 ® by Fuji Fine Chemical.

With regard to boron nitride, the following commercial products can be mentioned: Ronaflair Boroneige SQ-6 ® sold by Merck, SP2® and SP8® sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, Softouch Boron Nitride CC6657®, CC6058®, CC6059® sold by Momentive Performance Materials, and their mixtures.

As an example of perlite, in non-expanded or expanded form (i.e.: Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP); for example obtained according to US patent 5,002,698), we can cite the perlite sold by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name Perlite-M SZ12®.

Among the glass particles, we can mention the product P2015SL® marketed by the company Prizmalite (INCI name: Glass Beads). We can also mention hollow microspheres of Calcium Aluminium Borosilicate (INCI name) such as the commercial product Luxsil Cosmetic Microspheres® by the company Potters, and particles of Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (INCI name), for example the product marketed under the name: Luxsil AL Free 20 by the company Presperse.

Examples of magnesium oxide include the product Magnesium Oxide Extra Light Low Nickel from Dr. Paul Lohmann; of calcium carbonate, the product Omyacare Extra 35-OG from Omya, Carbomat® sold by Sensient; of barium sulfate, the product LLD-5 BASO4 (PL) from Daito Kasei Kogyo (barium sulfate and lauroyl lysine); of silica coated with lauroyl lysine such as the product Amilon marketed by Ikeda.

Organic charges

Examples of organic fillers include, alone or in mixtures, natural micronized waxes, such as micronized carnauba wax, such as the Microcare 350 product marketed by Micro Powders; metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine such as the Amihope LL product, marketed by Ajninomoto; Hordeum Vulgare Seed Flour, such as the Amaze Nordic Barley product from the company Nouryon, PHA (poly(hydroxyalkanoate), starch, quinoa extract (INCI name: Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract), for example marketed by the company TriK under the name NaturePep Quinoa, cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose.

Among the starches, we can mention native starches such as corn starch (INCI name: ZEA MAYS STARCH) as the product sold under the trade name Beauty By Roquette ST005® by the company ROQUETTE; rice starch (INCI name: ORYZA SATIVA STARCH) such as the commercial product Remytec F-I® by the company Creachem.

We can also mention chemically modified starches such as modified starches with the following INCI names: Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, such as the commercial product Dry Flo Plus® sold by Akzo Nobel; Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Octenylsuccinate such as the commercial product Structure Zea® sold by Akzo Nobel; Potato Starch Modified such as the commercial product Structure Solanace sold by Akzo Nobel; Sodium Carboxylmethyl Starch such as the product Beauty By Roquette ST118® by Roquette; Oxidized Starch Acetate such as the product GF-A390® sold by Foshan Gaofeng Starch Technology; composite powders of starch and sodium polyacrylate with the INCI name: Sodium Polyacrylate Starch such as the commercial products Makimousse 25® and 12® sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo.

Among the cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose particles that can be used according to the invention, we can mention in particular those sold by the company Daito under the brand name Cellulobeads® such as Cellulobeads USF®, Cellulobeads USF-X®, Cellulobeads D-5®, Cellulobeads D-10®, Cellulobeads D-30®, or sold under the trade names Vivapur CS 9 FM, Vivapur CS 4 FM by the company JRS.

Preferably, the filler is chosen from magnesium oxide, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, possibly combined with lauroyl lysine, talc, perlite, silica, diatomaceous earth, kaolin and halloysite, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, starch, quinoa, cellulose and their combinations.

Preferably, the composition comprises 0.2 to 10% by weight, more particularly 0.5 to 9% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, as a charge, relative to the total weight of the composition.

WATER

The composition according to the invention may optionally include water.

Suitable water for the invention may be demineralized water, floral water such as cornflower water and/or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or thermal water.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition according to the invention includes water, its content is less than 20% by weight, more particularly less than 15% by weight, and preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

COLORING MATERIALS

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one coloring matter.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring matter can be chosen from powdered coloring materials, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Powdered coloring materials

Powdered coloring materials can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls and their mixtures.

The term "pigments" refers to white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or the resulting deposit. These pigments can be white or colored, mineral and/or organic.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

The term "mineral pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium and cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), and chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, and ZrO₂ mixed with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, and ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1μm.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D [50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1µm.

Sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial Malvern Master Sizer 3000® particle size analyzer, allowing for the determination of the particle size distribution across a wide range from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

D[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred method, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which may include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, which can be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and/or one of its salts, and more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.

According to a preferred method, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWBO-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), and BWRO-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by Kobo.

The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

By "organic pigment," we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. Organic pigments can be chosen from among the following compounds: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone.

The organic pigment(s) can be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenolic derivatives as described in French patent FR2 679,771.

These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP1184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

Examples of inorganic substrates on which dyes are adsorbed include alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

Among the organic colorants, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one powdered colouring material of the mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metallic oxides, and more particularly chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, coated or uncoated, and mixtures thereof.

Mother-of-pearl pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Preferably, if the composition includes them, the powdered colouring material(s) is/are present, preferably in a content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 6 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring agents

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring matter and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly depending on the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment clearly falls within the expertise of a professional.

Additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be fat-soluble.

For the purposes of this invention, "liposoluble coloring matter" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

Examples of suitable fat-soluble colorants for the invention include synthetic or natural fat-soluble colorants such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, and curcumin.

Additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

For the purposes of this invention, "water-soluble coloring matter" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

Examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention include synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s), if included in the composition, are preferably present at levels of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

COSMETIC ADDITIVES

The compositions according to the invention may include additives commonly used in skincare and/or makeup products, such as active ingredients like vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; UV filters; waxes; pastes; hydrophilic gelling agents; film-forming agents other than alkylcellulose (in particular ethylcellulose); mineral lipophilic thickeners, which will be described later, or organic thickeners such as dextrin and fatty acid esters, in particular C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, or mixtures thereof, and more preferably, dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate ; perfumes; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

Although this does not correspond to a preferred variant of the invention, the composition may optionally include one or more silicone polymers such as silicone resins, silicone acrylate copolymers, silicone polyamides, and combinations thereof.

Examples of silicone resins include resins with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Polymethyl-silsesquioxane, and MQT-propyl resins, notably described and prepared in application WO2005/075542. C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) can also be mentioned.

Among the silicone-acrylate copolymers, dendrimers or not, we can cite for example the copolymers with INCI names Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer; Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer.

With regard to acrylamide-silicone copolymers, one can notably mention the copolymer with INCI name Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer.

If the composition includes them, the content of silicone polymer(s) does not exceed 5% by weight, and more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of them.

It is part of the routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of additives present in compositions conforming to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties of the latter are not affected.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

Waxes

The composition according to the invention may include at least one hydrocarbon wax, polar or non-polar.

For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.

The measurement protocol is as follows:
A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fat is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (∆Hf) can also be measured, corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

Waxes can be of vegetable, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better greater than or equal to 40°C.

Non-polar waxes

By "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax", in the sense of the present invention, we mean a wax consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms, such as for example N, O, Si, P….

Examples of non-polar waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, and micro-waxes, particularly polyethylene waxes.

Polar waxes

Polar waxes can be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based, among others.

For the purposes of this invention, "polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one heteroatom, more particularly selected from oxygen, possibly nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

By "siliconized wax" we mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

According to a first preferred embodiment, polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

As a hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from among ester waxes and alcohol waxes is preferred.

According to the invention, "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

According to the invention, "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say, comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

In particular, it can be used as an ester wax, alone or in mixtures:
₍ i) waxes of formula _R1COOR2 in which _R1 and _R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 6 to 50, in particular from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as, for example, O, N and whose melting temperature varies more particularly from 30 to 120 C. In particular, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in _C20 - _C40 (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in mixture, or an alkyl stearate in _C20 - _C40 may be used as an ester wax. Such waxes are sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P ^® ", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ^® ", "Kester Wax K 80 P ^® ", or "Kester Wax K82H" by the company Koster Keunen. Stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and their mixtures can also be used.
ii) di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate),
iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula
^R3 -(-OCO- ^R4 -COO- ^R5 ), wherein ^R3 and ^R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a _C4 - _C30 alkyl group, and ^R4 represents a linear or branched _C4 - _C30 aliphatic group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates. Preferably, the _C4 - _C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
(iv) We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched fatty chains, in _C8 - _C32 , for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example Phytowax Castor 22L73 ^® , or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol, such as those in the Phytowax Olive range, for example Phytowax Olive 18L57, marketed by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in particular in application FR2792190.
(v) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated _C16 - _C30 carboxylic acid, possibly hydroxylated, with glycerol. By total esters, it is understood that all the hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate), and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in mixtures. Suitable compounds include triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties.
vi) We can also mention waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, sunflower wax, particularly refined.
vii) We can also mention hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylated units (in C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units can vary from 1 to 20. By way of example, we can mention polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba wax, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethened or polyoxypropylenated, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswax, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, the Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters blend, polyglycerol vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and their blends (Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters).

According to another embodiment, the polar wax can be an alcohol wax. Examples of alcohol waxes include mixtures of linear, saturated alcohols in the _C30 - _C50 range, such as Performacol 550 Alcohol wax from New Phase Technology, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, if the composition includes them, the wax is chosen from among the hydrocarbon waxes. More particularly, it is chosen from among the non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes of animal or vegetable origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; alcohol waxes; as well as their mixtures; and preferably from among the non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, alone or in mixtures.

The wax content, if included in the composition, varies advantageously from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pasty compounds

The composition according to the invention may also include at least one paste-like compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

For the purposes of this invention, "pasty" means a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, exhibiting in particular in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at room temperature a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the initial melting point of the paste-like compound can be lower than room temperature. The liquid fraction of the paste-like compound measured at room temperature can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the paste-like compound. This liquid fraction at room temperature preferably represents between 15 and 85%, and even more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

The melting point of the pasty fat is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.
However, in the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is as follows :
A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat.
The enthalpy of fusion of a fat in a paste form is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.
The enthalpy of fusion of a fat-based substance is the amount of energy required to change the fat-based substance from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J/g. The enthalpy of fusion of the fat-based substance is equal to the area under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

The paste compound can in particular be chosen from synthetic paste compounds and fats of vegetable origin.

The paste-like compound(s) can be specifically chosen from:
- lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins;
- Vaseline (also called petrolatum),
- _C2 - _C4 pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, for example, compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and mixtures thereof. One example is the mixture marketed under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy.
- Liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification of one or more _C2 - _C100 diols, preferably _C2 - _C50 . Among liposoluble polyethers, particular consideration is given to copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with long-chain _C6 - _C30 alkylene oxides, preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, the product with the INCI name PEG-45/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, marketed for example under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel, is a notable example.
- esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid, preferably saturated, in _C6 - _C10 and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, in _C6 - _C20 , in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of _C6 - _C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo. (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2),
- triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably _C12 - _C18 , possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as, for example, the saturated fatty acid glycerides C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),
- diol or polyol dimer esters, and diacid dimer esters such as:
* dilinoleic alcohol and dilinoleic acid dimer esters whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
* esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl/Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
- butters of vegetable origin such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft ^® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; as well as orange wax such, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
- vegetable oils that are fully or partially hydrogenated, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel ^® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated isomerized trans jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
- hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (VL) sold by Nisshin Oil,
- and their mixtures.

If the composition includes at least one paste compound, its/their content varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

lipophilic thickeners

The composition according to the invention may also include at least one lipophilic thickener, chosen particularly from among silicas, treated hydrophobically or not; lipophilic clays; alone or in mixtures. It should be noted that lipophilic thickeners are not considered, for the purposes of the invention, as fillers.

Silicas

The composition according to the invention may thus include, as a mineral thickener, a pyrogenated silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic.

Pyrogenated silica

Suitable for the invention is hydrophobically treated, fumed silica. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of silica through a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on its surface. In particular, silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica.

Hydrophobic groups can be:
- Trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA ( ^8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot.
- Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA ( ^8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot.

Silica aerogels

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical _CO2 . This type of drying prevents pore and material contraction. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CJ. and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _{_M}) ranging from 500 to 1500 m^² /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ^² /g and better from 600 to 800 m ^² /g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, better from 1 to 1000 µm, preferably from 1 to 100 µm, especially from 1 to 30 µm, preferably still from 5 to 25 µm, better from 5 to 20 µm and even better from 5 to 15 µm.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume average diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 1 to 30 µm, preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better from 5 to 20 µm and even better from 5 to 15 µm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.

The particle sizes of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and even better from 5 to 15 µm.

Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name Silica Silylate).

By "hydrophobic silica" we mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference can be made to document US 7,470,725.

Preference will be given to using hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups.

Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 ^m² /g.

We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

We can also mention the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

Lipophilic clays

The term “lipophilic clay” refers to any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and/or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.

Clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, in particular steralkonium chloride or di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

They can be chosen from among the bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

Preferably, they are chosen from among the hectorites and the bentonites.

For example, a lipophilic clay can be used, chosen from among hydrophobic modified bentonites and hydrophobic modified hectorites, notably by a quaternary ammonium chloride in the C10 to C22 range, such as:
- a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride such as the commercial products sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Tixogel® LG-M, Tixogel® MP 250 Tixogel® VZ, Tixogel® VZ-V XR, by the company BYK Additives Inc; the commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4, Viscogel® SD by the company Bentec SPA;
- a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil such as the commercial products Dub Velvet Gum® from Stearinerie Dubois Fils, Myglyol Gel T® from Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, Tixogel® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 by BYK Additives Inc;
- a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite) such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone® 38VCG Rheological Additive by the company Elementis Specialities;
- a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil such as the commercial products sold under the name Bentone® GEL DOA V, Bentone® GEL EUG V, Bentone® GEL IHD V, Bentone® GEL ISD V, Bentone® GEL MIO V® Bentone® GEL PTM V® Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V, Bentone® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialities; the commercial products sold under the name Creagel Bentone CPS/Hectone CPS, Creagel Bentone ID/Hectone ID by the company Créations Couleurs; the commercial products sold under the name NS GEL DM1®, NS GEL PTIS®, NS MGEL 1152® by the company Next Step Laboratories Stop.

Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition at concentrations ranging, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

The invention also relates to a process for treating human keratinous materials, in particular for makeup and/or keratinous material care, in which the composition according to the invention is applied.

Thus, the composition used according to the invention can be a care and/or makeup composition for keratinous materials such as skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes or eyebrows.

In particular, the composition according to the invention is a skin makeup product such as foundations, blushes and eyeshadows.

In particular, the composition according to the invention is a lip makeup product such as a lipstick, a gloss.

In particular, the composition according to the invention is an eye contour makeup product such as eyeliner, eyelashes or eyebrows such as mascara.

Such compositions are prepared in particular according to the general knowledge of the expert.

The composition according to the invention may also be part of a packaging set, or kit, comprising:
- a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition according to the invention as previously described,
- an applicator of said composition.

The container can delimit one or more compartments. The container can, for example, be in the form of a tube or a hot water bottle.

Such an applicator can be attached to a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a sealing position of said container and an application position, in particular for makeup.

It is further stated that the compositions according to the invention include more particularly a cosmetically (or physiologically) acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying such compositions.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The expressions "between… and …" and "ranging from … to …" should be understood inclusive of limits, unless otherwise specified.

Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients in the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

Raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI name.

EXAMPLES Viscosity measurement protocol

Viscosity measurement is carried out at 25°C with a sample of the composition, at least 24 hours after its manufacture (storage at room temperature, closed container), using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a wheel no. 2, 3 or 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the wheel within the formula, at a shear of 200 revolutions/min (rpm).

Tights measurement protocol

The composition is deposited onto several 100μm deep stainless steel cups and leveled as quickly as possible. The cups are then left to dry at room temperature for one hour.

The device used is a TAXT2i texture tester. The clamp mounted on the device grips a 6 mm diameter AU4G cylinder to the end of which is glued a smooth beige synthetic leather tip of the same diameter and 2 mm thick.
Between each measurement, the tip is cleaned with ethanol.
Multiple measurements are never taken at the same location in the storage area.

The parameters for compression tests with sustained load are indicated below:

Approach speed
(or pre-speed) 1 mm/s Speed
(based on contact detection) 0.1 mm/s Strength
(and corresponding pressure) 0.283N (or 0.01MPa) Holding time 3 s Withdrawal speed
(or post-speed) 0.1 mm/s

The adhesive is characterized by the work done to remove it, measured during unloading (tensile phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve along the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joules per square meter.

Protocol for evaluating homogeneity and coverage

Support: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (marketed by Soudotique).
* Apply the product using a plunger applicator with a flocked tip (gloss applicator) across the entire surface, 3 times in a row to ensure sufficient coverage.
* Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 32°C for 45 minutes.
* Evaluate the homogeneity and coverage of the deposit according to the following notation:

Note Deposit status - -
The substrate is not completely covered and reveals the substrate and/or the color of the substrate in certain areas. -
The surface is completely covered and the color of the deposit is more intense in certain areas + The substrate is completely covered and the color of the deposit is uniform.

Protocol for measuring fit and transfer 1. Test preparation:

Support: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (marketed by Soudotique).

* Apply the product using a plunge applicator with a flocked tip (gloss applicator) over the entire surface 3 times in succession to ensure an even application. Repeat this process on two other strips.
* Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 32°C for 45 minutes.
* If possible, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the application.

2. Requests:

Prepare a tissue for each request:
Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square.

Dry resistance:

* Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up surfaces; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing makeup from the skin or lips.
* Observe the condition of the rubbed surface as well as the surface area of the handkerchief used, in particular the remaining color and the transferred color.
* Optionally take a photo.

Note that the assessment of resistance to transfer is done with this request.

If multiple passes are required, they should be made with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e., after each pass, the tissue is lifted and repositioned at the "beginning" of the strip to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Optionally, a photo can be taken between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of procedure can be used to assess the overall resistance of the deposit.

Rating:

Note
Deposit status Surface of the fabric in contact with the deposit 5
Total or partial removal of the deposit from the rubbed area; the surface of the substrate appears in places Very intense coloring – very significant to total color transfer 4
Partial removal resulting in a significantly and visibly less intense coloration of the deposit. Intense coloring – significant color transfer 3
A decrease in the intensity of the deposit's color is noticeable but does not reveal the substrate. Medium coloring – medium color transfer 2
No substantial variation in the color of the deposit Slight discoloration – minimal color transfer 1
No variation in the color of the deposit No or barely visible coloring – no to very little color transfer

Example 1 1. Compositions

The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and the contents in mass percentages are gathered in the table below.

In these examples, the staying properties of a lipstick according to the invention, containing a cellulose-type filler (composition 1) are compared with a lipstick not containing a filler (composition A).

Phase Ingredients (INCI name or chemical name) 1 Invention A Comparative HAS Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze natural by Nouryon) 15 15 B Isododecane 22 QS B C9-12 Alkane (Vegelight Silk 100 from Biosynthis) 5 5 C Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V from Elementis) 10 10 D Denatured alcohol 20 20 E Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm from Ashland) 5 5 F Euphoria Cerifera (Candellilla) Wax Extract (Candelilla Resin E-1 from Japan Natural Products) 5 5 G Cellulose (Cellulobeads by Daito Kasei) 5 - H Mica (Mearlmica SV, Sun Chemicals) 2.5 2.5 H Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079, Sensient) 7.5 7.5 I Oleic acid (WILFARIN OA-7075 from Wilmar) 3 3 Total 100 100

2. Preparation of compositions:
1. In a beaker, mix the polyester, isododecane and C9-12 Alkane under agitation (RAYNERI deflocculator at 500 rpm) until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
2. Add the mixture with the disteardimonium Hectorite (C) while maintaining the stirring at 500 rpm to obtain a homogeneous mixture, then add the ethanol under the same conditions.
3. Once the mixture is homogenized, introduce the Ethylcellulose (E) in a fine spray into the vortex created by the deflocculator at 500 rpm and then leave under agitation (approximately 10 minutes).
4. Once the mixture is homogenized, introduce the previously ground Candelilla (F) resin in a fine spray, under a deflocculator at 500 rpm and then leave under agitation to obtain a homogeneous mixture (approximately 10 minutes).
5. Introduce the cellulose (G) while maintaining agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
6. Preparation of phase H: place the ingredients of phase H in the bowl of an IKA MV20 grinder and mix at maximum speed 4 times for 15 seconds, making sure after each 15 seconds to detach any powder that may have adhered to the sides)
7. Add phase H to the mixture from step 5.
8. Finally, introduce the oleic acid, stirring at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized.
9. Place the resulting mixture in a hot water bottle fitted with a plunger applicator with a flocked tip (gloss applicator).

3. Evaluation of compositions

Each composition is stable and applies easily to the lips in a smooth and comfortable layer.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a deposit whose stickiness is improved.

The dry strength ratings are summarized in the table below:

Note Composition 1 Invention 2 Comparative Composition A 3

It is observed that the presence of cellulose-type fillers improves dry resistance performance.

Example 2 1. Compositions

The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and the contents in mass percentages are gathered in the table below.

In these examples, the staying properties of a lipstick according to the invention, containing a silica-type filler (composition 2) are compared with a lipstick not containing a filler (composition B).

Phase Ingredients (INCI name or chemical name) 2 Invention B Comparative HAS Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze natural by Nouryon) 15 15 B Isododecane 22 QS B C9-12 Alkane (Vegelight Silk 100 from Biosynthis) 5 5 C Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V from Elementis) 10 10 D Denatured alcohol 20 20 E Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm from Ashland) 5 5 F Euphoria Cerifera (Candellilla) Wax Extract (Candelilla Resin E-1 from Japan Natural Products) 5 5 G Silica (Silica Shells from Kobo) 5 - H Mica (Mearlmica SV, Sun Chemicals) 2.5 2.5 H Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079, Sensient) 7.5 7.5 I Oleic acid (Wilfarin OA-7075 from Wilmar) 3 3 Total 100 100

2. Preparation of compositions:
1. In a beaker, mix the polyester, isododecane and C9-12 Alkane under agitation (RAYNERI deflocculator at 500 rpm) until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
2. Add the mixture with the disteardimonium Hectorite (C) while maintaining the stirring at 500 rpm to obtain a homogeneous mixture, then add the ethanol under the same conditions.
3. Once the mixture is homogenized, introduce the Ethylcellulose (E) in a fine spray into the vortex created by the deflocculator at 500 rpm and then leave under agitation (approximately 10 minutes).
4. Once the mixture is homogenized, introduce the previously ground Candelilla (F) resin in a fine spray, under a deflocculator at 500 rpm and then leave under agitation to obtain a homogeneous mixture (approximately 10 minutes).
5. Introduce the silica (G) while maintaining agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
6. Preparation of phase H: place the ingredients of phase H in the bowl of an IKA MV20 grinder and mix at maximum speed 4 times for 15 seconds, making sure after each 15 seconds to detach any powder that may have adhered to the sides)
7. Add phase H to the mixture from step 5.
8. Finally, introduce the oleic acid, stirring at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized.
9. Place the resulting mixture in a hot water bottle fitted with a plunger applicator with a flocked tip (gloss applicator).

3. Evaluation of compositions

Each composition is stable and applies easily to the lips in a smooth and comfortable layer.

The dry strength ratings are summarized in the table below:

Note Composition 2 Invention 2 Comparative Composition B 3

It is observed that the presence of a silica-type filler improves dry resistance performance.

Example 3 1. Compositions

The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and the contents in mass percentages are gathered in the table below.

In these examples, the staying properties of a lipstick according to the invention, containing a diatomaceous earth type filler (composition 3) are compared with a lipstick not containing filler (composition C).

Phase Ingredients (INCI name or chemical name) 4. Invention C Comparative HAS Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze natural by Nouryon) 15 15 B Isododecane qsp 100 qsp 100 B C9-12 Alkane (Vegelight Silk 100 from Biosynthis) 5 5 C Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V from Elementis) 10 10 D Denatured alcohol 20 20 E Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm from Ashland) 5 5 F Euphoria Cerifera (Candellilla) Wax Extract (Candelilla Resin E-1 from Japan Natural Products) 5 5 G Diatomaceous Earth (Imercare Vitalskin from Imerys) 5 - H Mica (Mearlmica SV, Sun Chemicals) 2.5 2.5 H Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079, Sensient) 7.5 7.5 I Oleic acid (Wilfarin OA-7075 from Wilmar) 3.0 3.0 Total 100 100

2. Preparation of compositions:
1. In a beaker, mix the polyester, isododecane and C9-12 Alkane under agitation (RAYNERI deflocculator at 500 rpm) until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
2. Add the mixture with the disteardimonium Hectorite (C) while maintaining the stirring at 500 rpm to obtain a homogeneous mixture, then add the ethanol under the same conditions.
3. Once the mixture is homogenized, introduce the Ethylcellulose (E) in a fine spray into the vortex created by the deflocculator at 500 rpm and then leave under agitation (approximately 10 minutes).
4. Once the mixture is homogenized, introduce the previously ground Candelilla (F) resin in a fine spray, under a deflocculator at 500 rpm and then leave under agitation to obtain a homogeneous mixture (approximately 10 minutes).
5. Introduce the diatomaceous earth (G) while maintaining agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
6. Preparation of phase H: place the ingredients of phase H in the bowl of an IKA MV20 grinder and mix at maximum speed 4 times for 15 seconds, making sure after each 15 seconds to detach any powder that may have adhered to the sides)
7. Add phase H to the mixture from step 5.
8. Finally, introduce the oleic acid, stirring at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized.
9. Place the resulting mixture in a hot water bottle fitted with a plunger applicator with a flocked tip (gloss applicator).

3. Evaluation of compositions

Each composition is stable and applies easily to the lips in a smooth and comfortable layer.

The dry strength ratings are summarized in the table below:

Note Composition 3 Invention 2 Comparative Composition C 3

It is observed that the presence of a diatomaceous earth type filler improves dry resistance performance.

Claims (31)

Cosmetic composition, preferably makeup, of human keratinous materials, in particular skin and/or lips, preferably lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
- at least one natural resin,
- at least one alkylcellulose with the alkyl group in the C2-C3 position, preferably ethylcellulose,
- at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):
(i) at least one polyglycerol-3
(ii) at least one dimeric acid, and
(iii) at least one fatty acid mono-acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid,
- at least one monoalcohol in the C2-C6 range, more particularly in the C2-C4 range, preferably ethanol,
- at least one volatile oil,
- possibly at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the aforementioned polyester, or silicone oil, as well as mixtures thereof;
- at least one charge. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the natural resin comprises at least 30% by weight on the total weight of resin of terpenic compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpenic compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpenic compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpenic compounds, or even better at least 70% by weight on the total weight of resin. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural resin is selected from the following resins, alone or in mixture:
- resins extracted from vegetable waxes, preferably extracts of Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax;
- incense resins, preferably Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin;
- frankincense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea Robusta Resin; and
- rosins, preferably rosin acid esters (Rosin) such as glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate or hydrogenated rosinates such as hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate or hydrogenated methyl rosinate;
and preferably among the resins extracted from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax, incense resins such as Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin and incense resins from the Sal tree such as Shorea Robusta resin. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural resin, expressed as active matter, represents from 0.5 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 25% by weight, and preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylcellulose content represents from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then the induction of a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; and preferably triglycerol is the major component in said mixture. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components:
(i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form;
(ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and
(iii) isostearic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, _C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1/0.5/1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is in an oily solution comprising:
a) a polyester obtained by reaction:
(i) Polyglycerol-3, and
(ii) of a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and
(iii) of isostearic acid; the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and
b) at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic/capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having more particularly the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oily solution contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture. Composition according to any one of claims 14 or 15, characterized in that the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic/capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of Polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1/0.5/1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester content, expressed as active material, represents from 2.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monoalcohol content represents from 5 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are selected from nonpolar volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from _C8 - _C16 branched alkanes, _C8 - _C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from isododecane, undecane, tridecane, alone or in mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon, represents from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the charge has an average particle size (d[50] in volume) less than or equal to 40 µm, preferably from 1 to 20 µm, more preferably from 2 to 15 µm. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filler is selected from magnesium oxide, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, optionally combined with lauroyl lysine, talc, perlite, kaolin and halloysite, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, starch, quinoa, and combinations thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a filler content of between 0.2 and 10% by weight, more particularly of 0.5 to 9% by weight, preferably of 0.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content represents less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, other than the aforementioned polyester, selected from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and in particular selected from fatty alcohols, esters, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from octyldodecanol, vegetable oils, ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from octyldodecanol, fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, such as in particular Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (INCI name), vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of non-volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon(s), varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, at a content not exceeding 5% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably the composition is devoid of it. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one silicone polymer, selected more particularly from silicone resins, silicone acrylate polymers, acrylamide-silicone copolymers, or mixtures thereof, at a content not exceeding 5% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably the composition is devoid of it. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. A method for making up human keratinous materials, in particular skin and/or lips, preferably lips, in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied.