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WO2025219371A1 - Composition comprenant un polyester particulier, un solvant volatil et une charge de terre de diatomées, de silice ou d'hectorite non modifiée, et son utilisation - Google Patents

Composition comprenant un polyester particulier, un solvant volatil et une charge de terre de diatomées, de silice ou d'hectorite non modifiée, et son utilisation

Info

Publication number
WO2025219371A1
WO2025219371A1 PCT/EP2025/060338 EP2025060338W WO2025219371A1 WO 2025219371 A1 WO2025219371 A1 WO 2025219371A1 EP 2025060338 W EP2025060338 W EP 2025060338W WO 2025219371 A1 WO2025219371 A1 WO 2025219371A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
acid
oil
polyglycerol
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/EP2025/060338
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Pascal Arnaud
Nathalie GUILLIER
Catherine Marion
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR2404105A external-priority patent/FR3161361A1/fr
Priority claimed from FR2404104A external-priority patent/FR3161363A1/fr
Priority claimed from FR2404103A external-priority patent/FR3161362A1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2025219371A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025219371A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85—Polyesters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition, notably for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one polyester obtained by reacting a polyglycerol-3, a dimer acid and a C8-C30 monoacid, at least one volatile solvent, optionally at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one filler of diatomaceous earth, silica or unmodified hectorite type, and also to a process using same.
  • a cosmetic composition preferably a makeup composition, notably for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one polyester obtained by reacting a polyglycerol-3, a dimer acid and a C8-C30 monoacid, at least one volatile solvent, optionally at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one filler of diatomaceous earth, silica or unmodified hectorite type, and also to a process using same.
  • compositions in particular makeup compositions, containing, inter alia , dyestuffs such as foundations, correctors, lipsticks or lip glosses, have been developed to improve the staying power and transfer resistance properties.
  • compositions which form a film after application Such compositions generally contain volatile solvents which evaporate on contact with the skin or the lips, leaving behind a layer comprising waxes and/or film-forming polymers, pigments and fillers.
  • Film-forming polymers are synthetic polymers, usually silicone or acrylic polymers.
  • silicone resins for instance trimethyl siloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or resins which comprise silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates/polytrimethyl siloxymethacrylate copolymer - INCI name).
  • Acrylic polymers such as acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers are also used.
  • these compositions are often considered less comfortable, or even uncomfortable, from a sensory point of view for consumers.
  • the fillers they are chosen notably by virtue of their ability to absorb sebum, sweat and/or oils from the composition, and often from polymeric fillers.
  • such fillers may be considered as “microplastics”, the use of which it is also sought to avoid.
  • a cosmetic composition preferably for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
  • the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty monoacid,
  • At least one filler of diatomaceous earth, silica or unmodified hectorite type at least one filler of diatomaceous earth, silica or unmodified hectorite type.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for treating human keratin materials, preferably a makeup process, in which the abovementioned cosmetic composition is applied to human keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips.
  • composition according to the invention is stable over time and, when applied to the lips, has the advantage of being readily applied, without dewetting on application or on blotting. Moreover, the deposit obtained is precise, uniform, not runny and sparingly or not at all tacky. The deposit does not migrate into the wrinkles and fine lines, in particular around the lips.
  • the resulting deposit has good staying power. It is also comfortable, without leaving a feeling of dryness or tautness.
  • the composition according to the invention When applied to the skin, for example in the form of an emulsion, the composition according to the invention is easy to apply, light, non-tacky and comfortable. It allows very even distribution of the pigments and nacres on the skin, without any mask effect.
  • the deposit obtained on applying the composition also has good staying power, and this being the case without using silicone film-forming polymers.
  • composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a liquid composition at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • liquid composition means any composition which has one or more of the following features:
  • compositions may thus be found notably in fluid, creamy, pasty or gel form.
  • the viscosity measurement is generally performed at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2, No. 3 or No. 4 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed), at a speed of 200 rpm.
  • the composition according to the invention may have, at 25°C, a viscosity of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 0.2 and 20 Pa.s.
  • a viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be between 0.2 and 10 Pa.s.
  • the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be between 0.1 Pa.s (spindle 2) and 25 Pa.s (spindle 4), preferably between 0.2 Pa.s (spindle 2) and 20 Pa.s (spindle 4) and better still between 0.2 Pa.s (spindle 2) and 10 Pa.s (spindle 4).
  • human keratin material notably means the skin, the lips, the area around the eyes, the eyelids, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of components (i), (ii) and (iii) below:
  • the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acids.
  • polyester is understood to mean any polymer obtained by a condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular backbone contains the repetition of its ester function.
  • the ester function denotes a characteristic group formed of an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom via a double bond and to an alkoxy group.
  • the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic ester, the general formula of which is R-COO-R’.
  • polyglycerol-3 means triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is predominant in said mixture.
  • polyesters of the invention and the synthesis thereof are described in patent applications US 2021/0259945, US 2021/0259946 and US 2021/0259930 in the name of the company Nouryon.
  • the polyester is a substantially or totally nonsequential reaction product.
  • substantially nonsequential reaction product means the product obtained by a substantially nonsequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii).
  • totally nonsequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii) means that the total content of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) to be made to react is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.
  • the total content of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) to be made to react is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction, that is to say that the reaction is totally non-sequential, and the polymer is a product of totally non-sequential reaction of the components (i)-(iii).
  • 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) are added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.
  • the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reagents into a reaction vessel and the subsequent induction of an entirely random addition of the dimer acid and of isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.
  • Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly] 3 -OH in which Gly denotes a glycerol residue after removal of two hydroxyl groups.
  • a polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols which can be any product of oligocondensation of glycerol. They preferably correspond to formula (I):
  • Gly the majority of the Gly groups are of the formula: -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -, although residues comprising etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are regarded as being within the scope of “Gly” and, consequently, may also be present.
  • polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprise diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol and mixtures of these.
  • preferential polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n in particular has a value from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5 and notably 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols in these ranges.
  • polyglycerol-3 comprise a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution, in which all the weight percentages are based relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture:
  • - glycerol 0% to 30% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, most preferably 0% to 15% by weight;
  • - diglycerol 10% to 40% by weight, preferably 15% to 35% by weight, most preferably 20% to 32% by weight;
  • - triglycerol 10% to 65% by weight, preferably 15% to 60% by weight, most preferably 18% to 55% by weight;
  • - tetraglycerol 2% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, most preferably 8% to 20% by weight;
  • - pentaglycerol 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, most preferably 0% to 5% by weight;
  • - hexaglycerol 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, most preferably 0% to 5% by weight;
  • - heptaglycerol 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0% to 3% by weight;
  • - octaglycerol 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0% to 3% by weight;
  • - nonaglycerol 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, most preferably 0% to 2% by weight;
  • - decaglycerol 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, most preferably 0% to 2% by weight.
  • a polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises the following distribution of polyglycerols:
  • Glycerol 0% to 30% by weight
  • Triglycerol 10% to 55% by weight
  • Tetraglycerol 2% to 25% by weight
  • Pentaglycerol and higher components 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.
  • a polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture is composed of at least 40% by weight, or of at least 45% by weight, or of at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and of triglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.
  • a polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 20% by weight, or of at least 25% by weight, of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight, of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight, of tetraglycerol; in which all the weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.
  • a particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.
  • polyglycerol-3 The analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition may be performed so as to determine its median or “mean” polyglycerol number.
  • the above examples of polyglycerols with narrow and broad distributions can also be denoted as polyglycerol-3 because it is a matter of the integer closest to the mean and/or median.
  • the dimer acid may be any dicarboxylic acid containing at least 4 carbon atoms. They may be linear or branched, for instance the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and from anhydrides thereof.
  • Dimer fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, these are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids which are obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids.
  • the functionality of the mixture must not exceed a mean molar value of 2.4.
  • the preferred dimer acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C18 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce unsaturated C18 fatty monoacids.
  • the starting materials may be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources, such as flax seeds, soybean, pumpkin and walnut, may be used.
  • the target monoacids used in the reaction are rich in forms of oleic and linoleic acids which are described in the list of fatty acids which is contained below. Dimerization results mainly in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed.
  • the product may be stored in the form of a mixture of reaction products or it may be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions.
  • the dimerization reaction produces a predominance (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimer acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).
  • a standard hydrogenated dimer acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960® which contains 87% by weight of dimer acid and 10% by weight of trimer acid, is used.
  • the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, a more hydrophobic nature and a higher viscosity than those which can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight.
  • trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and the performance qualities of these polymers.
  • the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimer acid.
  • the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimer acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimer acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C18 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.
  • the hydrogenated dimer acid has a content of trimer acid ranging from about 5% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.
  • the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a predominance (at least 60% by weight, more preferentially at least 75% by weight, but not more than 95% by weight, or better still not more than 90% by weight, or even better still not more than 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight).
  • the C8-C30 fatty monoacids may include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, and the like, but these contain both lower and higher MW chains.
  • Useful fatty monoacids may be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated and aromatic materials with an acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.
  • Acids that are suitable for use in the invention comprise caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecylic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).
  • Another way to obtain a liquid product consists in using unsaturated, linear and branched, fatty monoacids.
  • unsaturated acids can include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), ⁇ -linolenic acid (C18:3), ⁇ -linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:1), gondoic acid (C20:1), dihomo- ⁇ -linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C
  • isostearic acid will be preferred.
  • the polyester of the invention is a product of substantially or totally non-sequential reaction of the following components:
  • At least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;
  • the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reagents into a reaction vessel and the subsequent induction of an entirely random addition of the dimer acid and of isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.
  • a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of from 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of from 20% to 40%.
  • the degree of esterification by end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid from 4% to 40%.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of fatty acid.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of isostearic acid.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of isostearic acid.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mol of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mol of isostearic acid.
  • the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mol of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mol of isostearic acid.
  • the target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50 000 mPa.s and less than 5 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.
  • the target viscosity is > 75 000 mPa.s and
  • the target viscosity is > 100 000 mPa.s and
  • the target viscosity is > 1 000 000 mPa.s and ⁇ 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.
  • the viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Rough or smooth twin flat plates 50 mm in diameter were used, covered with a polymer sample, adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed.
  • the polyesters of the invention have Newtonian behavior and thus have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates.
  • the polymers of the present description demonstrated a reduced viscosity with temperature.
  • the viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally in the form of a shear rate of 1. The values are reported in mPa.s.
  • polyesters of the invention are characterized by weight-average molecular masses > 2500 Da and ⁇ 1 000 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.
  • the GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous tetrahydrofuran (THF) phase was used and injected at 0.35 ml/min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 ⁇ l injection and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector.
  • the calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended to be monodispersed.
  • the narrow range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared as a mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1 290 000 Da, 560 000 Da, 65 500 Da, 28 500 Da, 10 100 Da, 1680 Da, 580 Da and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the weight- and number-average molecular mass is automatically calculated with standard GPC software.
  • the polyesters described have a weight-average molecular weight > 4000 Da and ⁇ 250 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a most preferred embodiment, the polymers described have a weight-average molecular weight > 5000 Da and ⁇ 150 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.
  • the polyester of the invention has a combination of weight-average molecular mass > 5000 Da and ⁇ 150 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards, and of viscosity at 25°C > 100 000 mPa.s and ⁇ 2 000 000 mPa.s.
  • the polyester of the invention is a product of substantially or totally non-sequential reaction of the following components:
  • polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;
  • (iii) isostearic acid in which the polymer has a combination of weight-average molecular mass > 5000 Da and ⁇ 15 000 Da, measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards, and of viscosity of the pure polymer > 100 000 mPa.s and ⁇ 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C; and in which the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.
  • the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (and not theoretical) hydroxyl fractions and carboxylic acid fractions, as are determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR and liquid chromatography.
  • the above esterification ranges are based on the ideal structure of the polyglycerol-3 and of the C36 dimer acid.
  • the actual ranges may thus be slightly different from the values indicated above and may be calculated on the basis of these analytical values.
  • the initial acid numbers in the light of the distribution of the polyglycerol, monoacid and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid number determined by the raw ingredient used.
  • the initial total acid number (“AV”, which is commonly defined in mg of KOH/g of total reagent), is 135 AV.
  • This comprises 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mol of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mol of isostearic acid.
  • All the preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV which can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage of conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.
  • the degree of completion of the reaction is defined by 1 - final AV/ initial AV.
  • the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to ⁇ 25 mg of KOH/g of polymer.
  • the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to ⁇ 10 mg of KOH/g of polymer.
  • the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to ⁇ 5 mg of KOH/g of polymer.
  • the completion rate of the reaction is defined by the equation 1- final AV/initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 80%.
  • the degree of completion of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 90%.
  • the degree of completion of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 95%.
  • the polyester of the invention is a product of reaction of a polyglycerol-3, of a hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and of isostearic acid in a mole ratio of 1/0.5/1, as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of US 2021/0259945.
  • the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising:
  • the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acids;
  • Said nonvolatile oil(s) may be chosen from those which will be described below.
  • the oily solution comprises, as nonvolatile oil(s), at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride).
  • the oily solution of polyester can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the nonvolatile oil(s) at about 80-100°C. The combined mixture is subsequently further cooled to 50-70°C to be discharged from the reactor and stored.
  • Said oily solution of polyester preferably contains the polyester at a concentration of 10% to 99% by weight, more preferentially of 30% to 90% by weight, more particularly of 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
  • the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic/capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyester of polyglycerol-3, of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and of isostearic acid, relative to the total weight of the oily solution, in a mole ratio of 1/0.5/1, as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of US 2021/0259945.
  • the composition comprises an oily solution comprising:
  • the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acids;
  • a triglyceride of caprylic/capric acids said mixture having, as INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.
  • Such an oily solution is sold under the name SolAmaze Natural® by the company Nouryon, comprising 60% by weight, as active material, of polyester and 40% by weight of a triglyceride of caprylic/capric acids, relative to the total weight of the oily solution.
  • the amount of polyester, expressed as active material ranges from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one volatile solvent.
  • volatile solvent means a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa), having a vapour pressure at 20°C ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13 000 Pa and preferentially ranging from 0.5 Pa to 8000 Pa.
  • oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, or mixtures thereof, and preferably from hydrocarbon-based oils;
  • the volatile solvent is chosen from:
  • the composition comprises, as volatile solvents, at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol and at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based volatile oil.
  • the monoalcohol(s) in accordance with the invention preferably comprise from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • the monoalcohol(s) may be represented, for example, by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • Monoalcohols that may be mentioned include include ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • said monoalcohol comprises at least ethanol, and even more preferentially the monoalcohol is ethanol.
  • the monoalcohol content represents from 1% to 40% by weight, advantageously from 3% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • oil means any lipophilic compound that is in liquid form at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, which are preferably apolar, and silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • volatile oil refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a nonzero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13 000 Pa and preferentially ranging from 0.5 Pa to 8000 Pa (standard OCDE 104).
  • hydrocarbon-based oil refers to an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. These oils are thus different from silicone oils.
  • apolar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
  • silicon oil denotes an oil comprising at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
  • apolar hydrocarbon-based volatile oils that may be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, preferably saturated, oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may thus be chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • linear alkanes in particular C8-C14 alkanes, mention may be made of n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. Mention may notably be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97® and Parafol 14-97®, and also mixtures thereof.
  • use may be made of a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane, and in particular the dodecane/tetradecane mixture sold by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight 1214®.
  • use may also be made of a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes of INCI name: C9-12 Alkane, such as the product sold by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight Silk®.
  • n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis and such as the product sold under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate® by the company BASF.
  • alkanes described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 mixture of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes. Mention may notably be made of C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar® or Permethyl® trade names.
  • C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin also known as isoparaffins
  • isododecane also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane
  • isodecane isohexadecane
  • the oils sold under the Isopar® or Permethyl® trade names for example, the oils sold under the Isopar® or Permethyl® trade names.
  • volatile silicone oils such as linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils notably containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile oil is chosen from apolar volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, even more particularly chosen from branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, from linear C 8 -C 14 alkanes, and mixtures thereof, and in particular isododecane, the mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes and the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof.
  • the content of volatile oil(s), preferably apolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s), represents from 1% to 75% by weight, advantageously from 5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one volatile or nonvolatile silicone oil, then their content does not exceed 5% by weight and more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention does not contain any.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil different from the abovementioned polyester. More particularly, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from polar or apolar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils, and also mixtures thereof.
  • nonvolatile oil refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure is nonzero and is less than 0.13 Pa.
  • the vapor pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (standard OCDE 104).
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil means that said oils comprise, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen atom.
  • said hydrocarbon-based oil comprises at least one hydroxyl, ester, ether and/or carboxylic function.
  • composition according to the invention may thus comprise at least one nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, more particularly chosen from:
  • C 10 -C 26 fatty alcohols preferably monoalcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. More particularly, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • esters notably chosen from:
  • ester oils comprising from 1 to 4 ester functions, of which at least one of them, which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms;
  • the polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from:
  • - lauryl alcohol isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably octyldodecanol;
  • - castor oil olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof;
  • polyesters having the following INCI names: Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate,
  • apolar, nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, for instance:
  • C15-C28 such as the mixtures of which the INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L15 and L19 sold by SEPPIC,
  • nonvolatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by the company Ineos, and Dekanex by the company IMCD for instance nonvolatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by the company Ineos, and Dekanex by the company IMCD
  • the nonvolatile oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon-based oils, alone or as mixtures, other than the abovementioned polyester, in particular chosen from alcohol oils and esters.
  • the polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from octyldodecanol, plant oils, ester oils, which are optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the nonvolatile oil is chosen from octyldodecanol, triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), plant oils, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one nonvolatile oil chosen from polar hydrocarbon-based oils other than the abovementioned polyester, in particular from fatty alcohols, esters and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from fatty alcohols, plant oils, ester oils, which are optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and also mixtures thereof.
  • polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from fatty alcohols, plant oils, ester oils, which are optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the nonvolatile oil is chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride).
  • the content of nonvolatile oil(s) ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one optional nonvolatile silicone oil chosen from nonvolatile phenyl silicone oils, optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, nonvolatile nonphenyl silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • phenyl(ated) specifies that said oil includes, in its structure, at least one phenyl radical.
  • divalent siloxane fragment denotes a divalent siloxane group, the silicon atom of which bears two methyl radicals, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It may be represented by the following formula:
  • the silicones do not contain a C 2 -C 3 alkylene oxide group or a glycerolated group.
  • Nonvolatile phenylated oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment
  • the Diphenyl Dimethicones are notably sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS.
  • the Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicones are sold, for example, by the company Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20.
  • nonvolatile phenyl silicone oils not containing a dimethicone fragment
  • nonvolatile, nonphenyl silicone oils that are suitable for performing the invention, mention may be made of those sold by the company Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by the company Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and by the company Shin-Etsu with the KF-96 A range.
  • nonvolatile nonphenyl silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes and alkyl dimethicones. It should be noted that the term “dimethicone” (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).
  • these nonvolatile, nonphenyl silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and alkyl dimethicones comprising at least one C 2 -C 24 alkyl group, and also mixtures thereof.
  • these oils may be chosen from dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone and stearyl dimethicone, alone or as mixtures.
  • nonvolatile, nonphenyl silicone oils that are suitable for use, mention may be made of those sold by the company Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by the company Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and by the company Shin-Etsu with the KF-96 A range.
  • the alkyldimethicones may be sold, for example, under the trade names Abil Wax 9800 and Abil Wax 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid, Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax, from Dow Corning; and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one volatile or nonvolatile silicone oil, then their content does not exceed 5% by weight and more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention does not contain any.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler of the diatomaceous earth, silica or unmodified hectorite type, and also mixtures thereof.
  • filler should be understood as meaning a colorless or white solid particle of any form, which is in an insoluble form dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • the composition comprises from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, of filler of diatomaceous earth, silica or unmodified hectorite type, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler of diatomaceous earth type (INCI name: Diatomaceous Earth).
  • Diatomaceous earth is composed of microporous siliceous fossilized skeletal remains from aquatic algae called diatoms.
  • the mean particle size (d[50] by volume) ranges from 1 to 20 ⁇ m.
  • the particle sizes are measured using a commercial particle size analyzer of the Malvern MasterSizer 2000® type.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter.
  • This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. Diatomaceous earth particles are porous.
  • porous particles means particles having a structure including pores or interstices.
  • diatomaceous earths that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of the products in the ImerCare D range from the company Imerys, for example ImerCare 03D, ImerCare 06D, ImerCare 400D, ImerCare Vistalskin.
  • the composition comprises from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, of filler of diatomaceous earth type, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silica-type filler.
  • the silica that may be used as filler may be a precipitated or fumed silica, and preferably a precipitated silica. More particularly, the INCI name of the silica-type filler according to the invention is Silica.
  • the silica that may be used as filler has not been subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.
  • silicas having the INCI name Silica Silylate or Silica Dimethyl Silylate are not considered as fillers for the purposes of the invention.
  • the silica that may be used as filler may have any form, preferably spherical.
  • spherical silica means silica particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (about 100°C).
  • the spherical silica particles of the present invention may have a mean circularity of at least 0.8, and preferably of at least 0.82.
  • the spherical porous silica particles of the present invention may have a mean circularity of less than or equal to 1, preferably less than or equal to 0.99, more preferably less than or equal to 0.98, even more preferably less than or equal to 0.97, even more preferably less than or equal to 0.96, and most preferably less than or equal to 0.95.
  • the “mean circularity” may be determined by an image analysis method.
  • the “mean circularity” may be an arithmetic mean circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of no less than 2000 silica particles, observed at a magnification of 1000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope. (SEM).
  • SEM scanning electron microscope
  • C 4 ⁇ S / L 2 in which C represents a circularity, S represents a zone (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the silica particle in the image.
  • the mean diameter of the silica particles is advantageously between 0.5 ⁇ m and 30 ⁇ m, preferably from 1 ⁇ m to 20 ⁇ m.
  • the sizes of the silica particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000® machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter.
  • This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the silica particles used in the invention are preferably porous.
  • porous particles means particles having a structure including pores or interstices.
  • the structure of the particles may be matrix-like (with an outwardly open porosity) like a sponge, and/or may comprise a central cavity (hollow sphere).
  • the porosity of the particles is characterized quantitatively by their specific surface area.
  • the silica particles have a specific surface area of from 10 to 1000 m 2 /g, preferably from 100 to 900 m 2 /g.
  • the specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society , Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the silica-type filler is chosen from spherical particles of precipitated amorphous silica, which is preferably porous, and even more particularly chosen from porous spherical particles of precipitated amorphous silica which has not undergone any hydrophobic surface treatment; mixtures thereof.
  • amorphous silica means vitreous silica, i.e. non-crystalline silica in which the atoms do not respect any order at medium and long distances, unlike crystalline silica.
  • porous spherical amorphous silica that is not hydrophobically surface-treated
  • the Sunsphere® range from the company Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, notably Sunsphere H-51® or Sunsphere 12L®, Sunsphere H-201®, H-52 and H-53
  • Spherica P-1500® from the company Ikeda Corporation
  • Sylosphere® from the company Fuji Silysia
  • the Silica Pearl® and Satinier® ranges from the company JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly Satinier M13® and Satinier M16 silicas, MSS-500® silicas from the company Kobo, and more particularly MSS-500-20N®, and Silica Shells® from the company Kobo.
  • the composition comprises from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, of silica-type filler, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one unmodified hectorite-type filler.
  • unmodified hectorite means natural or synthetic hectorite which has not undergone any chemical modification whatsoever.
  • unmodified hectorite is different from hectorites modified with a C10-C22 fatty acid ammonium halide, such as chloride, which will be described later in the text.
  • the unmodified hectorite used as filler in the composition according to the invention falls among the natural or synthetic phyllosilicates, preferably natural, having a sheet structure known as T.O.T. (tetrahedron-octahedron-tetrahedron: two tetrahedral sheets frame an octahedral layer), also said to be 2/1 phyllosilicates, belonging to the smectite group, and more precisely to the trioctahedral smectite sub-group.
  • the structure of smectites differs from other phyllosilicates by an interfoliar space between each combination of T.O.T. sheets which depends on its state of hydration (clays sometimes said to be “swelling”) and in which interfoliar cations are intercalated.
  • the unmodified hectorite used in the composition according to the invention is a natural hectorite.
  • natural hectorite means a compound which is obtained directly from the earth or soil, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance grinding, refining, purification or filtration.
  • the unmodified hectorite that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise at least 30% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight of SiO 2 , relative to the total weight of the unmodified clay, and at least 10% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight of MgO, relative to the total weight of the unmodified clay.
  • the unmodified hectorite that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise from 35% to 65% by weight of SiO 2 , relative to the total weight of the unmodified clay, and from 15% to 30% by weight of MgO, relative to the total weight of the unmodified clay.
  • the hectorite that is suitable for use in the invention may include an SiO 2 /MgO weight ratio ranging from 1 to 3; preferably from 1.5 to 2.5; more preferentially from 1.8 to 2.4.
  • the unmodified clay that is suitable for use in the invention is generally available in powder form.
  • unmodified clay and more particularly unmodified hectorite, it will notably be possible to use the product sold by Elementis under the name Bentone EW or Hydroclay 2000 LO.
  • the composition comprises from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, of unmodified hectorite-type filler, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the unmodified hectorite-type filler used in the context of the invention is preferably introduced into the lipophilic phase of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise an aqueous phase.
  • said aqueous phase comprises at least water, optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble solvents, water-soluble active agents and water-soluble antimicrobial agents.
  • the water may more particularly be demineralized water, floral water such as cornflower water and/or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or thermal spring water.
  • the composition comprises a water content of at least 15% by weight, preferably of at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of between 20% and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is in the form of an emulsion, more precisely an emulsion in which the continuous phase is the oily phase and in which the aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture to the naked eye (water-in-oil emulsion or inverse emulsion).
  • the composition is in the form of a composition whose water content is less than 15% by weight of water, more particularly less than 10% by weight, and even more advantageously less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water content does not exceed 1% by weight of water, or even the composition is free of water.
  • water-soluble solvents that may be present in the composition, and in particular in the aqueous phase, mention may be made of C2-C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and butanol. Mention may also be made of polyols such as glycerol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerol, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • C2-C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and butanol.
  • polyols such as glycerol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerol, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.
  • the content of water-soluble solvent(s) represents 0.1% to 20% by weight, more particularly 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in the form of an emulsion, in particular an inverse emulsion, it comprises one or more surfactants, preferably nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.
  • the term “surfactant” refers to an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one which has two parts of different polarity. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • the term “HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).
  • the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions.
  • the HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.
  • Surfactants whose chemical structure results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid and/or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions are notably suitable for use.
  • the polyol is a polyethylene glycol or a polyglycerol.
  • polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Cithrol DPHS-SO-(MV)® by the company Croda.
  • glycerol and/or sorbitan esters for example, of polyglyceryl isostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) such as the product sold under the name Isolan IG 34® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt; Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate sold under the name Lameform TIG® by BASF, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI.
  • polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan IG 34® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt
  • Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate sold under the name Lameform TIG® by BASF
  • sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI
  • Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate sold under the trade name Isolan GPS® by the company Evonik Degussa; Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the trade name Dehymuls PGPH® by the company BASF; Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate sold under the trade name SY-Glyster CRS-75® by the company Sakamoto Yakuhin; Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate sold under the trade name Emulium Illustro® by the company Gattefossé; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate sold under the trade name Akoline PGPR® by the company Aarhus Karlshamn; Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate sold under the trade name Sunsoft No.
  • the content of surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1.5% to 7% by weight, and even more preferentially from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one dyestuff.
  • the dyestuff may be chosen from pulverulent dyestuffs, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.
  • the pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof.
  • pigments means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to color and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.
  • the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
  • mineral pigment refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
  • mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder.
  • the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta 2 O 5 , Ti 3 O 5 , Ti 2 O 3 , TiO, ZrO 2 as a mixture with TiO 2 , ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , CeO 2 , ZnS.
  • the size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 ⁇ m to 1000 ⁇ m.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicronic to multimicronic; it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles , Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.
  • the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, said coating preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.
  • the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof, which may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • the salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and/or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for instance aluminum stearoyl glutamate.
  • an N-acylamino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and/or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for instance aluminum stearoyl glutamate.
  • pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • the pigments may be coated according to the invention with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.
  • ITT isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • BWBO-I2® iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • BWYO-I2® iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • BWRO-I2® iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • the pigments that may be used according to the invention may also be organic pigments.
  • organic pigment refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
  • the organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17
  • These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment may also be a lake.
  • the term "lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
  • Mention may be made, among the organic dyes, of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
  • D&C Red 21 CI 45 380
  • D&C Orange 5 CI 45 370
  • D&C Red 27 CI 45 410
  • D&C Orange 10 CI 45 425
  • D&C Red 3 CI 45 430
  • D&C Red 4 CI 15 510
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent dyestuff of mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metal oxides, and more particularly chosen from coated or uncoated titanium dioxides or iron oxides and mixtures thereof.
  • the nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica notably with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride
  • colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica notably with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the pulverulent dyestuff(s) are preferably present in the composition in a content ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or liposoluble dyestuff, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the additional dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention may be liposoluble.
  • liposoluble dyestuff means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting color.
  • liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ( ⁇ -carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
  • synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ( ⁇ -carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
  • the additional dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention may be water-soluble.
  • water-soluble dyestuff means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting color.
  • synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanine (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel and riboflavin.
  • the water-soluble or liposoluble dye(s), if the composition comprises any, are preferably present in contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may include additives commonly used in skincare and/or makeup products, such as active ingredients like vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; UV screening agents; additional fillers, other than the diatomaceous earth, silica and unmodified hectorite described previously; waxes; pasty compounds; hydrophilic gelling agents; film-forming agents; lipophilic mineral thickeners, which will be described later, or organic thickeners, for instance fatty acid esters of dextrin, in particular of C12-C24, preferably C14-C18, or mixtures thereof, and more preferentially dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate; fragrances; preserving agents; and mixtures thereof.
  • active ingredients like vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; UV screening agents; additional fillers, other than the diatomaceous earth, si
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may thus comprise at least one additional filler, different from the diatomaceous earth, silica and unmodified hectorite type fillers described previously.
  • the additional fillers may be mineral or organic.
  • they may be chosen from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.
  • natural filler or “natural compound” means a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.
  • filler of natural origin or “compound of natural origin” means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations. Mention may be made, as nonlimiting example of additional chemical or industrial treatment bringing about modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, of those permitted by the controlling bodies, such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003), or defined in recognized handbooks in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”, 2005, Vol. 120, 9: 10.
  • the additional fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
  • the additional fillers may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with amino acids or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
  • mineral fillers examples include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.
  • organic fillers examples include micronized natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powders, such as the product sold by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.
  • the additional filler(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polar or apolar hydrocarbon-based wax.
  • the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C that may be up to 120°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is lastly subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the wax ( ⁇ Hf), corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained, may also be measured.
  • This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to cause the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the waxes may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes have a melting point preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better still greater than or equal to 40°C.
  • apolar hydrocarbon-based wax means a wax constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms, for instance N, O, Si, P, etc.
  • apolar waxes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes and microwaxes, notably polyethylene waxes.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes and microwaxes, notably polyethylene waxes.
  • the polar waxes may notably be hydrocarbon-based or silicone waxes.
  • polar hydrocarbon-based wax means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially of, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and which comprises at least one heteroatom more particularly chosen from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • silicon wax means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably comprising Si-O groups.
  • the polar wax is a hydrocarbon-based wax.
  • a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is preferred as polar hydrocarbon-based wax.
  • ester wax means a wax comprising at least one ester function.
  • the ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.
  • alcohol wax means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
  • R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which ranges from 6 to 50, notably from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, for instance O or N, and the melting point of which ranges more particularly from 30°C to 120°C.
  • R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which ranges from 6 to 50, notably from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, for instance O or N, and the melting point of which ranges more particularly from 30°C to 120°C.
  • ester wax of a C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate.
  • Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P ® , Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ® , Kester Wax K 80 P ® or Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen. Use may also be made of stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof;
  • the C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated;
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils notably containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains for instance hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated coconut kernel oil
  • waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example Phytowax Castor 22L73 ®
  • the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as those of the Phytowax Olive range, for example Phytowax Olive 18L57, sold by the company Sophim.
  • Such waxes are notably described in patent application FR2792190;
  • total esters means that all the hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. Examples that may be mentioned include trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate) and tribehenine (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture.
  • suitable compounds mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and of 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, for instance Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties;
  • Mention may also be made of waxes of animal or plant origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, or sunflower wax, in particular in refined form;
  • waxes of animal or plant origin such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, or sunflower wax, in particular in refined form;
  • polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax
  • polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes such as PEG-12 carnauba
  • polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin waxes such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin
  • PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride polyglycerolated beeswaxes, notably polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, the Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerolated plant waxes, such as mimosa, jojoba or sunflower waxes, and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters),
  • the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.
  • alcohol waxes mention may be made of mixtures of saturated linear C 30 -C 50 alcohols, for instance the wax Performacol 550 Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
  • the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes. More particularly, it is chosen from apolar waxes; polar hydrocarbon-based waxes such as waxes of animal or plant origin, waxes of animal or plant origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils; alcohol waxes; and also mixtures thereof; and preferably from apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes, alone or as mixtures.
  • the wax content if the composition comprises any, advantageously ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one compound which is pasty at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the term “pasty” refers to a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, notably having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization, and including at room temperature a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting point of the pasty compound may be lower than room temperature.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at room temperature may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This fraction that is liquid at room temperature preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40% and 85%, by weight.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that described in detail previously for the waxes.
  • the measuring protocol is, however, as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
  • the pasty compound may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.
  • the pasty compound(s) may in particular be chosen from:
  • lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,
  • ethers of pentaerythritol and of C 2 -C 4 , polyalkylene glycol for example the compounds having the following INCI names: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, for example, of the mixture sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy,
  • liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 100 and preferably C 2 -C 50 diols.
  • the liposoluble polyethers consideration is given in particular to copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30.
  • esters resulting from the condensation of a preferably saturated, linear or branched, C 6 -C 10 dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, C 6 -C 20 monocarboxylic acids, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and of a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C 6 -C 20 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, notably sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2),
  • - triglycerides of fatty acids which are optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 -C 18 ; for instance the glycerides of saturated C 12 -C 18 fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),
  • esters of dimer of dilinoleyl alcohol and of dilinoleic acid the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
  • esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
  • - butters of plant origin such as mango butter, such as the product sold under the name Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft ® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; and also orange wax, for instance the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
  • - totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut kernel, palm and rapeseed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel ® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
  • hydrogenated castor oil esters such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil,
  • composition comprises at least one pasty compound
  • its content ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one lipophilic thickener, chosen more particularly from silicas, which may or may not have been hydrophobically treated; lipophilic clays; alone or as a mixture. It should be noted that lipophilic thickeners are not considered as fillers for the purposes of the invention.
  • composition according to the invention may thus comprise, as mineral thickener, a fumed silica, preferably a hydrophobic fumed silica, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
  • Fumed silica which has been hydrophobically surface treated is suitable for use in the invention. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is possible in particular to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be:
  • Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot.
  • Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica Dimethyl Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science , New York, Academic Press, 1990.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (S M ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ m, better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ m, preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ m, in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ m, more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ m, better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • S M specific surface area per unit mass
  • D[0.5] volume-mean diameter
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ m, preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ m, better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • D[0.5] volume-mean diameter
  • the specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society , Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 2000 particle size analyzer from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter.
  • This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (S M ) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • the aerogels are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: Silica Silylate).
  • hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
  • Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • Aerogel TLD 201 Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
  • VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • lipophilic clay refers to any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.
  • Clay denotes a material based on hydrated silicates and/or aluminosilicates, of lamellar structure.
  • the clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, in particular stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • an alkylammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, in particular stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
  • They are preferably chosen from hectorites and bentonites.
  • a lipophilic clay chosen from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, notably modified with a C10 to C22 quaternary ammonium chloride, such as:
  • bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride such as the commercial products sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Viscogel® LG-M, Viscogel® MP 250 Viscogel® VZ and Viscogel® VZ-V XR, by the company BYK Additives Inc; or the commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4 and Viscogel® SD by the company Bentec S.P.A;
  • bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil such as the commercial products Dub Velvet Gum® from the company Stéarinerie Dubois Fils, Miglyol Gel T® from the company Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, Tixogel® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 from the company Byk Additives Inc.;
  • hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), for instance the product sold under the name Bentone® 38VCG Rheological Additive by the company Elementis Specialties;
  • Bentone® Gel DOA V Bentone® Gel EUG V
  • Bentone® Gel IHD V Bentone® Gel ISD V
  • Bentone® Gel MIO V Bentone® Gel PTM V
  • Bentone® SS-71 V Bentone® VS-5 PC V or Bentone® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialities
  • Creagel Bentone CPS/Hectone CPS or Creagel Bentone ID/Hectone ID by the company Disations Couliv
  • the commercial products sold under the name NS Gel DM1®, NS Gel PTIS® or NS MGel 1152® by the company Next Step Laboratories Stop.
  • the lipophilic thickener may be present in the composition in concentrations preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for treating human keratin materials, notably for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in which the composition according to the invention is applied.
  • composition used according to the invention may be a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin, the lips, the contour of the eyes, the eyelids, the eyelashes or the eyebrows.
  • composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the skin such as foundations, face powders and eyeshadows.
  • composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the lips, such as a lipstick or lip gloss.
  • composition according to the invention is an eye contour makeup product such as an eyeliner, or a product for the eyelashes or the eyebrows such as a mascara.
  • compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
  • composition according to the invention may also form part of a packaging assembly, or kit, comprising:
  • the container can delimit one or more compartment(s).
  • the container may be, for example, in the form of a tube or a heating bag.
  • Such an applicator may be integral with a cap reversibly mounted on said container between a position of closure of said container and a position of application, notably of makeup.
  • such an applicator may be irreversibly mounted on said container.
  • compositions according to the invention more particularly comprise a cosmetically (or physiologically) acceptable medium, i.e. one which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, that is liable to discourage the user from applying such compositions.
  • a cosmetically (or physiologically) acceptable medium i.e. one which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, that is liable to discourage the user from applying such compositions.
  • the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
  • the starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name.
  • test composition is applied, by means of a BYK spreader referenced PA-5356 with a thickness of 25.4 ⁇ m, to the white part of an Erichsen contrast card referenced 0049.09.33 and the composition is left to dry for 40 minutes at 32°C in a dry oven.
  • the second strip is impregnated with distilled tap water (0.1 ml),
  • the third strip is impregnated with olive oil (0.1 ml).
  • the film spreader weighted with a weight of 2 kg is placed on all of the thin strips, and the assembly is moved over the film.
  • Grade State of the deposit 5 Total or almost total removal of the deposit from the tested area; the surface of the support shows through in many places. 4 Partial removal of the deposit from the tested area; the surface of the support shows through in some places. 3 Slight removal of the deposit, leaving the support visible in a few places. 2 No substantial change in the appearance of the deposit (homogeneity, color) 1 No variation in the appearance of the deposit (homogeneity, color)
  • composition 1 a diatomaceous earth-type filler
  • composition A a foundation not containing any filler
  • Composition 1 Composition A (Comparative) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS, Evonik) 2.50 2.50 A Water 56.02 58.02 B Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (Synafil S 1050, Eckart) 1.22 1.22 C Titanium Dioxide (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-TAO-77891, Miyoshi Kasei) 8.71 8.71 C Iron Oxides (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-TAO-778
  • phase C Add the ingredients of phase C to the accompanying beaker, stirring with a Rayneri blender fitted with a deflocculating paddle at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized.
  • composition is stable and is readily applied as a uniform, comfortable deposit.
  • composition 1 (Invention)
  • Composition A (Comparative) Degradation of the deposit when dry 2 3 Degradation of the deposit with respect to water 1 2 Degradation of the deposit with respect to olive oil 2 3
  • composition according to the invention has better staying power when dry, with respect to water and with respect to oil, than the comparative composition.
  • composition 1 a diatomaceous earth-type filler
  • composition B a comparative foundation containing lauroyl lysine
  • Composition 1 (Invention) Composition B (Comparative) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS Evonik) 2.50 2.50 A Water 56.02 56.02 B Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (Synafil S 1050, Eckart) 1.22 1.22 C Titanium Dioxide (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-TAO-77891, Miyoshi Kasei) 8.71 8.71 C Iron Oxides (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-C
  • compositions are prepared as detailed in Example 1.
  • composition is stable and is readily applied as a uniform, comfortable deposit.
  • composition 1 (Invention)
  • Composition B (Comparative) Degradation of the deposit when dry 2 4 Degradation of the deposit with respect to water 1 2 Degradation of the deposit with respect to olive oil 2 4
  • composition according to the invention has better staying power when dry, with respect to water and with respect to oil, than the comparative composition.
  • composition 2 a diatomaceous earth-type filler
  • composition C a comparative lipstick containing lauroyl lysine
  • composition 2 Composition C (Comparative) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS Evonik) 2.50 2.50 2.50 A Water 58.24 58.24 B Red 7 5.25 5.25 C Mica (Mearlmica SV, Sun Chemical) 1.75 1.75 C Diatomaceous earth (Imercare Vitalskin, Imerys) 5.00 - D Lauroyl lysine (Amihope LL, Ajinomoto) - 5.00 D Ethanol 5.00 5.00 E Total 100.00 100.00
  • phase C Add the ingredients of phase C to the accompanying beaker, stirring with a Rayneri blender fitted with a deflocculating paddle at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized.
  • composition is stable and is readily applied as a uniform, comfortable deposit.
  • composition 2 (Invention)
  • Composition C (Comparative) Degradation of the deposit when dry 2 3 Degradation of the deposit with respect to water 1 2 Degradation of the deposit with respect to olive oil 2 4
  • composition according to the invention has better staying power when dry, with respect to water and with respect to oil, than the comparative composition.
  • composition 3 a silica-type filler
  • composition A a foundation not containing any filler
  • composition 3 Composition A (Comparative) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS Evonik) 2.50 2.50 A Water 57.02 58.02 B Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (Synafil S 1050, Eckart) 1.22 1.22 C Titanium Dioxide (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-TAO-77891, Miyoshi Kasei) 8.71 8.71 C Iron Oxides (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-TAO-77891
  • phase C Add the ingredients of phase C to the accompanying beaker, stirring with a Rayneri blender fitted with a deflocculating paddle at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized.
  • composition is stable and is readily applied as a uniform, comfortable deposit.
  • composition 3 (Invention)
  • Composition A (Comparative) Degradation of the deposit when dry 2 3 Degradation of the deposit with respect to water 1 2 Degradation of the deposit with respect to olive oil 2 3
  • composition according to the invention has better staying power when dry, with respect to water and with respect to oil, than the comparative composition.
  • composition 4 a silica-type filler
  • composition B a comparative foundation containing lauroyl lysine
  • Composition 4 (Invention) Composition B (Comparative) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS Evonik) 2.50 2.50 A Water 56.02 56.02 B Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (Synafil S 1050, Eckart) 1.22 1.22 C Titanium Dioxide (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-TAO-77891, Miyoshi Kasei) 8.71 8.71 C Iron Oxides (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-C
  • compositions are prepared as detailed in Example 4.
  • composition is stable and is readily applied as a uniform, comfortable deposit.
  • composition 4 (Invention)
  • Composition B (Comparative) Degradation of the deposit when dry 2 4 Degradation of the deposit with respect to water 1 2 Degradation of the deposit with respect to olive oil 2 4
  • composition according to the invention has better staying power when dry, with respect to water and with respect to oil, than the comparative composition.
  • compositions The following compositions, the list of ingredients and mass percentages of the contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared.
  • compositions the list of ingredients and mass percentages of the contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared.
  • composition C a comparative lipstick containing lauroyl lysine
  • composition 5 (Invention) Composition C (Comparative) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS Evonik) 2.50 2.50 A Water 58.24 58.24 B Red 7 5.25 5.25 C Mica (Mearlmica SV, Sun chemical) 1.75 1.75 C Silica (Silica Shells, Kobo) 5.00 - D Lauroyl lysine (Amihope LL, Ajinomoto) - 5.00 D Ethanol 5.00 5.00 E Total 100.00 100.00
  • phase C Add the ingredients of phase C to the accompanying beaker, stirring with a Rayneri blender fitted with a deflocculating paddle at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized.
  • composition is stable and is readily applied as a uniform, comfortable deposit.
  • composition 5 (Invention)
  • Composition C (Comparative) Degradation of the deposit when dry 2 3 Degradation of the deposit with respect to water 1 2 Degradation of the deposit with respect to olive oil 2 4
  • composition according to the invention has better staying power when dry, with respect to water and with respect to oil, than the comparative composition.
  • composition 6 The following compositions, the list of ingredients and mass percentages of the contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared.
  • composition A the staying power properties of a foundation according to the invention containing an unmodified hectorite-type filler (composition 6) are compared with a foundation not containing any filler (composition A).
  • composition 6 Composition A (Comparative) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (Isolan Gps GPS, Evonik) 2.50 2.50 A Water 56.02 58.02 B Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (Synafil S 1050, Eckart) 1.22 1.22 C Titanium Dioxide (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-TAO-77891, Miyoshi Kasei) 8.71 8.71 C Iron Oxides (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide
  • phase C Add the ingredients of phase C to the accompanying beaker, stirring with a Rayneri blender fitted with a deflocculating paddle at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized.
  • composition is stable and is readily applied as a uniform, comfortable deposit.
  • composition 6 (Invention) Composition A (Comparative) Degradation of the deposit when dry 2 3 Degradation of the deposit with respect to water 1 2 Degradation of the deposit with respect to olive oil 2 3
  • composition according to the invention has better staying power when dry, with respect to water and with respect to oil, than the comparative composition.
  • composition 7 The following compositions, the list of ingredients and mass percentages of the contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared.
  • composition B the staying power properties of a foundation according to the invention containing an unmodified hectorite-type filler (composition 7) are compared with a comparative foundation containing lauroyl lysine (composition B).
  • Composition 7 (Invention) Composition B (Comparative) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS, Evonik) 2.50 2.50 A Water 56.02 56.02 B Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (Synafil S 1050, Eckart) 1.22 1.22 C Titanium Dioxide (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-TAO-77891, Miyoshi Kasei) 8.71 8.71 C Iron Oxides (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-
  • compositions are prepared as detailed in Example 7.
  • composition is stable and is readily applied as a uniform, comfortable deposit.
  • composition 7 (Invention)
  • Composition B (Comparative) Degradation of the deposit when dry 2 4 Degradation of the deposit with respect to water 1 2 Degradation of the deposit with respect to olive oil 2 4
  • composition according to the invention has better staying power when dry, with respect to water and with respect to oil, than the comparative composition.
  • compositions The following compositions, the list of ingredients and mass percentages of the contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared.
  • compositions the list of ingredients and mass percentages of the contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared.
  • composition 8 the staying power properties of a lipstick according to the invention containing an unmodified hectorite-type filler (composition 8) are compared with a comparative lipstick not containing any filler (composition C).
  • Composition 8 (Invention) Composition C (Comparative) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS, Evonik) 2.50 2.50 A Water 58.24 58.24 B Red 7 5.25 5.25 C Mica (Mearlmica SV, Sun Chemical) 1.75 1.75 C Hectorite (Bentone Hydroclay 2000 LO, Elementis) 5.00 - D Lauroyl lysine (Amihope LL, Ajinomoto) - 5.00 D Ethanol 5.00 5.00 E Total 100.00 10.00
  • phase C Add the ingredients of phase C to the accompanying beaker, stirring with a Rayneri blender fitted with a deflocculating paddle at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized.
  • composition is stable and is readily applied as a uniform, comfortable deposit.
  • composition 8 (Invention)
  • Composition C (Comparative) Degradation of the deposit when dry 2 3 Degradation of the deposit with respect to water 1 2 Degradation of the deposit with respect to olive oil 2 4
  • composition according to the invention has better staying power when dry, with respect to water and with respect to oil, than the comparative composition.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique, notamment de maquillage de matières kératiniques humaine, en particulier la peau et/ou les lèvres, de préférence les lèvres, comprenant : - au moins une résine naturelle ; - au moins un polyester qui est le produit de réaction des composants (i), (ii) et (iii) ci-dessous : (i) au moins un polyglycérol-3, (ii) au moins un acide dimère, et (iii) au moins un monoacide gras contenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone ; les composants ayant réagi (i), (ii) et (iii) étant dans un rapport molaire de 1 mole de polyglycérol-3, de 0,5 à 1 mole d'acide dimère et de 0,1 à moins de 2,0 moles de monoacide gras, - au moins un solvant volatil, - éventuellement au moins une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile, - au moins une charge de type terre de diatomées, silice ou hectorite non modifiée. L'invention concerne également un procédé de traitement, notamment de maquillage des matières kératiniques humaines, dans lequel cette composition est appliquée sur lesdites matières kératiniques.
PCT/EP2025/060338 2024-04-19 2025-04-15 Composition comprenant un polyester particulier, un solvant volatil et une charge de terre de diatomées, de silice ou d'hectorite non modifiée, et son utilisation Pending WO2025219371A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FRFR2404103 2024-04-19
FRFR2404104 2024-04-19
FRFR2404105 2024-04-19
FR2404105A FR3161361A1 (fr) 2024-04-19 2024-04-19 Composition cosmetique comprenant un polyester particulier, au moins un solvant volatile et une charge de type hectorite non modifiee et procede la mettant en oeuvre
FR2404104A FR3161363A1 (fr) 2024-04-19 2024-04-19 Composition cosmetique comprenant un polyester particulier, au moins un solvant volatile, et une charge de type silice et procede la mettant en oeuvre
FR2404103A FR3161362A1 (fr) 2024-04-19 2024-04-19 Composition cosmetique comprenant un polyester particulier, au moins un solvant volatile et une charge de type terre de diatomee et procede la mettant en oeuvre

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DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 3 June 2019 (2019-06-03), ANONYMOUS: "Matte Velvet Skin Full Coverage Foundation 24H", XP093218811, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/6549279/ Database accession no. 6549279 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 8 June 2022 (2022-06-08), ANONYMOUS: "Velvetskin Natural Matte Foundation SPF 30 PA+++", XP093053545, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/9649502/ Database accession no. 9649502 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 9 March 2023 (2023-03-09), ANONYMOUS: "Mattever Lip-Ink", XP093218860, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/10642518/ Database accession no. 10642518 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 9 May 2023 (2023-05-09), ANONYMOUS: "Multitask Concealer", XP093218801, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/10779346/ Database accession no. 10779346 *
THE JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN CHEMICAL SOCIETY, vol. 60, February 1938 (1938-02-01), pages 309
VAN DE HULST, H.C.: "Light Scattering by Small Particles", 1957, WILEY

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