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WO2025247652A1 - Composition solide et mate renfermant un élastomère de silicone émulsifiant, une huile hydrocarbonée non polaire, une huile non volatile supplémentaire et une charge - Google Patents

Composition solide et mate renfermant un élastomère de silicone émulsifiant, une huile hydrocarbonée non polaire, une huile non volatile supplémentaire et une charge

Info

Publication number
WO2025247652A1
WO2025247652A1 PCT/EP2025/063353 EP2025063353W WO2025247652A1 WO 2025247652 A1 WO2025247652 A1 WO 2025247652A1 EP 2025063353 W EP2025063353 W EP 2025063353W WO 2025247652 A1 WO2025247652 A1 WO 2025247652A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
oil
mixtures
dimethicone
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/EP2025/063353
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Valentin OLIVER
Maxime Royer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2025247652A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025247652A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229—Sticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to solid compositions, the deposit of which is matte in appearance, for makeup and/or care of human keratin materials, more particularly the lips, comprising at least 10% by weight of a first particular nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, at least one second nonvolatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil different from the first oil, and at least one filler, the water content of the composition being at most 5% by weight, and also to a process employing said composition.
  • compositions intended to be applied, in particular to the lips, and providing a matte finish after application are well known in the cosmetic field and most of the time have the characteristic of comprising high contents of volatile oils and/or fillers.
  • the high content of volatile oil(s) makes it possible to consequently further increase the content of solid particles in the deposit, such as fillers and pigments, once the composition has been applied and has dried.
  • organic particles are often found, in particular polymeric particles such as nylon, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyethylene, silicone resins or elastomers, or else mineral particles such as kaolin or silica for example.
  • compositions with a matte finish that are easy to apply, that are more comfortable to wear, and that have a limited drying effect on the lips are still being sought. It is also desirable for there to be available compositions with which it is possible to dispense with the presence of microplastics or to reduce the use thereof, without loss of effectiveness, especially without loss of mattness.
  • the invention also provides a makeup and/or care process in which the composition defined above is applied to human keratin materials, in particular to the lips.
  • the present invention makes it possible to obtain a stable, solid composition, more particularly in the form of a stick, that is easily applied to the lips as a precise, homogeneous, matte deposit that does not migrate.
  • the resulting deposit also has the advantage of being more comfortable than the usual matte compositions, especially in that it dries the lips less.
  • the deposit shows good color fastness over time (for periods of up to 10 hours).
  • the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:
  • the stick is stored at 20°C for 16 hours before measuring the hardness.
  • the hardness is measured at 20°C by the “cheese wire” method, which involves transversely cutting a stick of product, which is preferably rotationally cylindrical (a cylindrical stick having a diameter of 8 mm), with the aid of a rigid tungsten wire having a diameter of 0.25 mm, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/min.
  • the measurements are made at least 0.7 mm from the sample holder, the distance between the bottom of the bevel and the tungsten wire being 1 cm.
  • the hardness of the samples is measured, for example, by means of a static brittleness tester (ruptometer – Rematique Electronique Industrielle).
  • the measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.
  • the hardness is the average of the three values read by means of the apparatus stated above.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 80 and 200 g, more particularly 80 and 190 g, preferably 80 and 120 g.
  • the value may also be converted into Nm -1 according to the following calculation:
  • the gloss of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:
  • the lipstick is spread on a contrast chart with a white and black background (ref. byko-chart, uncoated N2C) of size: 194 x 260 mm ((7.6 x 10.25 in), in a thickness of 500 ⁇ m by means of an automatic spreader (ref. byko-drive, model: DOA-P504-BN) the cylinder of which is preheated to 50°C using a hotplate.
  • a white and black background ref. byko-chart, uncoated N2C
  • a contrast chart with a white and black background (ref. byko-chart, uncoated N2C) of size: 194 x 260 mm ((7.6 x 10.25 in)
  • an automatic spreader ref. byko-drive, model: DOA-P504-BN
  • the gloss is measured at 85° using a gloss meter (ref. micro-TRI-gloss, Byk).
  • the gloss value is obtained by averaging three measurements taken at three different points on the contrast chart.
  • composition is considered matte for the purposes of the invention when the gloss value is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than or equal to 20, even more preferably less than or equal to 15.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one first saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched nonpolar C 14 -C 19 hydrocarbon oil.
  • nonpolar hydrocarbon oil refers for the purposes of the invention to a hydrocarbon oil constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
  • oil refers for the purposes of the invention to a compound that is insoluble in water and liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the first oil is selected from the following oils, alone or as a mixture (INCI name): Tetradecane, Hexadecane, Isohexadecane, Octadecane, C15-19 Alkane, and even more preferably the first oil is Isohexadecane, C15-19 Alkane or mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention also has a content of first oil(s) of at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of first oil(s) is between 10% and 30% by weight, more particularly between 15% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one second nonvolatile polar or nonpolar hydrocarbon oil different from the first oil, or nonvolatile silicone oil, or mixtures thereof.
  • nonvolatile oil refers to water-insoluble fatty compounds that are liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa) and with a vapor pressure at 20°C that is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa.
  • the vapor pressure may be measured for example according to the static method or according to the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry.
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood as meaning an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one atom of oxygen, optionally of nitrogen. These oils are thus different from silicone oils. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • a “silicone oil” refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.
  • the content of nonvolatile second oil(s) ranges from 10% to 35% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise, as a second oil, at least one nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon oil.
  • a “polar hydrocarbon oil” is understood as meaning an oil formed essentially, or even consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen atom and optionally a nitrogen atom. It may contain one or more alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. Such oils are therefore different from silicone oils, since they do not contain any silicon atoms.
  • Nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon oils suitable for carrying out the invention include more particularly oils selected from:
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group; the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12;
  • the alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols. They comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxylated.
  • said alcohol(s) is/are selected from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.
  • Nonvolatile ether or carbonate oils are nonvolatile ether or carbonate oils.
  • Suitable nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils include ethers of formula ROR’ or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which formulas the groups R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C 3 -C 16 group.
  • the oil(s) may be selected from:
  • Nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils with ester function(s) are nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils with ester function(s)
  • the nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil may also comprise at least one oil selected from hydrocarbon compounds comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12.
  • the oil may be selected from:
  • ester oils other than vegetable oils, that are optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon radical, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12; and polyesters obtained from esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid, and at least one dicarboxylic acid;
  • Suitable ester oils therefore include vegetable oils; ester oils other than vegetable oils, selected from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated mono- and diesters comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated triesters comprising up to 80 carbon atoms; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated tetraesters comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms; polyesters obtained from esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid, and at least one dicarboxylic acid; liquid polyesters obtained from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated dimer fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and also mixtures thereof.
  • Vegetable oils include, for example, castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, canola oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, rosehip oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, maize oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood nut oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid
  • the vegetable oil may preferably be selected from castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, canola oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.
  • Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated mono- and diesters comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms include those obtained from a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 and preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated monool or polyol comprising from 2 to 26 and in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the total number of carbon atoms being at least 12 and preferably at least 16, and also mixtures thereof.
  • Examples include 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stea
  • optionally hydroxylated mono- and diesters of a C 2 -C 8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and a C 2 -C 8 alcohol are also include optionally hydroxylated mono- and diesters of a C 2 -C 8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and a C 2 -C 8 alcohol.
  • Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acid and a C 2 -C 8 alcohol, and optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acid and a C 2 -C 8 alcohol, such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate or bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.
  • Examples also include propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, and also mixtures thereof.
  • hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters comprising up to 80 carbon atoms that are especially suitable are triesters obtained from optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, C 2 -C 40 , preferably C 4 -C 40 , mono- or polycarboxylic acids and C 2 -C 40 , preferably C 3 -C 40 , polyols or monools.
  • Examples include triacetin and also triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated C 4 -C 36 fatty acids, more particularly linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 20 fatty acids, for example triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid; these include in particular saturated triglycerides such as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, for example the products marketed under the DUB MCT range by Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triglycerides of a C 18-36 acid, such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarinerie Dubois, and glyceryl triisostearate.
  • saturated triglycerides such as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, for example the products marketed under the DUB MCT range by Stéarinerie Dubois, glyce
  • triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol preferably 2 or 3 mol of glycerol
  • monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate) and glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate).
  • Examples also include triesters of an optionally hydroxylated C 2 -C 9 acid comprising three carboxyl functions with a C 2 -C 20 monool.
  • They include citric esters such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, and also mixtures thereof.
  • Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated tetraesters comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms that are employable in the invention include tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or else pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate), and also mixtures thereof.
  • pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
  • pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate
  • polyesters obtained from esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid as described in particular in patent US7317068.
  • the polyol comprises more particularly 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, and is preferably pentaerythritol.
  • the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as preferably stearic, isostearic, caprylic, and capric acids, or combinations thereof.
  • the linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic dicarboxylic acid comprises more particularly 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably adipic acid.
  • Examples include the product with INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Isostearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate, marketed in particular under the name Supermol® L by Croda, and the product with INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate, marketed under the name Lexfeel® 700 EX-LO- MB by Inolex.
  • polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated dimer fatty acid and a diol such as those described in patent application FR2931673, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and butane-1,4-diol or propane-1,3-diol.
  • a diol such as those described in patent application FR2931673
  • They include very particularly Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® 14436H, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® Green 3000;
  • dimer diol dimer alcohol
  • Examples include the compounds of INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, as marketed for example by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan® DD-DA5 and DD-DA7.
  • optionally hydroxylated ester oils comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, of which at least one is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and comprises at least 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated mono- and diesters comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms; and linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated triesters comprising up to 80 carbon atoms;
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon oil.
  • the content of nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s), if present in the composition ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% and from 3% to 8.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • nonpolar oil is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning an oil selected from hydrocarbons, i.e. from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
  • nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil that is different from the aforementioned first oil(s) may be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, for example:
  • nonvolatile compounds of the Silkflo range marketed by Ineos or of the Dekanex range marketed by IMCD for example the nonvolatile compounds of the Silkflo range marketed by Ineos or of the Dekanex range marketed by IMCD,
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil
  • the nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is selected from squalane, the mixtures having the following INCI names: C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the content of nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil(s), if present in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not comprise a nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil.
  • nonvolatile silicone oils the latter may be non-phenylated silicone oils, or phenylated silicone oils optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.
  • phenylated specifies that said oil includes in its structure at least one phenyl radical.
  • divalent siloxane fragment refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl radicals, this group not being found at one or both ends of the molecule. It may be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH 3 ) 2 -O)-.
  • the silicones do not contain a C 2 -C 3 alkylene oxide group or a glycerolated group.
  • Nonvolatile non-phenylated silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C 2 -C 24 alkyl group, for example Cetyldimethicone, and mixtures thereof. These oils are marketed in particular under the name Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Chemical and Abil Wax 9801 by Evonik. Polydimethysiloxanes (dimethicone) include the products of the Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid range marketed by Dow Chemical Company; the products of the Belsil DM range marketed by Wacker, and the products of the Mirasil DM range marketed by Elkem Silicones, among others. Such oils generally have a viscosity of at least 5 cSt (5 x 10 -3 mm2/s, measured in particular according to standard ASTM D-445).
  • Nonvolatile phenylated silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment include the compounds having the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Such oils are marketed in particular under the names Belsil PDM by Wacker; Mirasil P-DPDM by Elkem Silicones; KF-53, KF 54 by Shin Etsu; Silshine 150 Fluid by Momentive Performance Materials.
  • Nonvolatile phenylated silicone oils that do not contain dimethicone fragment(s) include the compounds having the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, alone or as mixtures. These products are marketed in particular by Dow Chemical Company under the name Dowsil 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, by Elkem Silicones with Mirasil PTM, by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jessilc PTMF, and by Momentive Performance Materials under the name SF 1550 Fluid.
  • nonvolatile silicone oil(s) ranges from 1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, even more particularly from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils different from the aforementioned first oils, or silicone oils.
  • volatile silicone oils include in particular dimethicones having a viscosity of less than 5 cSt (5 x 10 -3 mm2/s, measured in particular according to standard ASTM D-445), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Volatile hydrocarbon oils which are preferably nonpolar, include volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to fewer than 14 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular:
  • isoalkanes also termed isoparaffins
  • isododecane isodecane
  • isodecane oils sold under the Isopar trade names marketed by ExxonMobil
  • n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk n-dodecane (C12) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97
  • the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT) the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
  • the content of volatile additional oil(s), if present in the composition is less than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, even more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, even more particularly less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler, these including at least one lipophilic clay comprising at least one ammonium group.
  • the filler different from the aforementioned lipophilic clay is selected from mineral fillers, organic fillers, and mixtures thereof.
  • filler refers to a particle of organic or mineral nature that is colorless or white, solid, has any shape and is insoluble in the medium of the composition at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. These fillers are advantageously dispersed in the composition.
  • a “lipophilic clay” is understood as meaning any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in an oily phase.
  • a clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and/or aluminosilicates and having a lamellar structure.
  • the clays may be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as an ammonium halide, for example a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, optionally comprising an aromatic group.
  • alkylammonium salt such as an ammonium halide, for example a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, optionally comprising an aromatic group.
  • alkylammonium salt such as an ammonium halide, for example a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, optionally comprising an aromatic group.
  • alkylammonium salt such as an ammonium halide, for example a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, optionally comprising an aromatic group.
  • halides such as stearalkonium, benzalkonium or dialkyldimethylammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • the clay may be selected from bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites, and zeolites.
  • the clay is selected from hectorites and bentonites.
  • the lipophilic hectorite suitable for carrying out the invention may be selected from the modified hectorites having the following INCI names: Disteardimonium Hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorites, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, alone or as mixtures.
  • the composition comprises Disteardimonium hectorite.
  • the lipophilic bentonite suitable for carrying out the invention may be selected from the bentonites having the following INCI names: Quaternium-18 Bentonites, Stearalkonium Bentonites, Quaternium-18/Benzalkonium Bentonite, alone or as mixtures.
  • the lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is in the form of a powder. More particularly, it is not used in an activated form.
  • the lipophilic clay used for preparing the composition of the invention and comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is not present in a predispersed form, particularly in a solvent selected for example from C 1 -C 2 alcohols, such as methanol or ethanol, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof, especially in the form of a gel.
  • Modified hectorites employable in the context of the invention include:
  • Modified bentonites employable in the context of the invention include, alone or as mixtures: *among Quaternium-18 Bentonites: Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis Specialties; Claytone 40, Tixogel VP marketed by Byk Additives Inc; *among Stearalkonium Bentonites, Tixogel VZ, Claytone AF, Claytone APA marketed by Byk Additives Inc; *among Quaternium-18/Benzalkonium Bentonites: Claytone HT marketed by Byk Additives Inc.
  • the filler of lipophilic clay type comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is selected from lipophilic hectorites comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group, in particular Disteardimonium Hectorite.
  • the content of lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group ranges from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler different from the aforementioned lipophilic clay, selected from organic fillers and mineral fillers, alone or as mixtures.
  • a “mineral filler” is understood as meaning any compound in which the chemical structure does not comprise a carbon atom, disregarding the presence of any coating of said filler.
  • the fillers are in the form of particles and are distinct from the dyestuffs that will be described below.
  • the fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be particles that are lamellar, globular or spherical in form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
  • the fillers may be spherical, i.e. they may comprise at least a rounded general portion, defining in particular at least a sphere portion, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.
  • the fillers more particularly have an average particle size (expressed as volume-average diameter - D[0.5]) of at least 1 ⁇ m, preferably of at least 2 ⁇ m, advantageously of between 2 and 15 ⁇ m.
  • the size of the particles can be measured by laser diffraction using a commercial Mastersizer 3000 particle size analyzer from Malvern (see also standard ISO 13320).
  • the fillers used in the composition according to the invention are optionally surface coated, in particular they may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, in particular one favoring the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
  • the hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones, in particular silanes, fluorinated derivatives, fatty acids such as stearic acid, metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above refers in particular to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • silica preferably in the form of spherical particles, such as the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by Myoshi; “Sunsphere H51” or “Sunsphere H33” by Asahi Glass; the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the names “SA Sunsphere H 33” and “SA Sunsphere H53” by Asahi Glass; hollow silica microspheres;
  • - zeolites such as the products marketed by Zeochem under the names ZEOflair 300, ZEOflair 200, ZEOflair 100, X-MOL and X-MOL MT;
  • calcium magnesium carbonate particles such as those marketed by Imerys under the name Calcidol, by LCW (Sensient) under the name Carbomat or by Omya under the name Omyacare S60-AV. Calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, and hydroxyapatite are also suitable;
  • kaolin or talc for example marketed under the Imercare, Imercare Pharma, and Luzenac Pharma ranges by Imerys; Rose Talc by Nippon Talc;
  • microcapsules such as borosilicate particles, for example the microspheres of the INCI name Glass Beads marketed for example by Prizmalite;
  • the composition according to the invention comprises, as mineral filler, kaolin, mica, perlite, glass beads, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the content of mineral filler(s) represents from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • An “organic filler” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning solid particles of at least one hydrocarbon or silicone compound, or combinations thereof, disregarding any coating.
  • the fillers are in the form of particles optionally surface-treated by means of compounds such as those described above in the context of mineral fillers.
  • the fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be lamellar, globular or spherical in form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
  • the fillers may be spherical, i.e. they may comprise at least a rounded general portion, defining in particular at least a sphere portion, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.
  • Suitable fillers include:
  • - metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate;
  • - natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders, and in particular starch powders, especially crosslinked or non-crosslinked maize, wheat or rice starch powders, powders of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride marketed under the name Dry-Flo® by National Starch or powders of waxy maize starch, such as those marketed under the names C* Gel 04201 by Cargill, Corn Starch B by Roquette, and Organic Corn Starch by Draco Natural Products;
  • starch powders especially crosslinked or non-crosslinked maize, wheat or rice starch powders, powders of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride marketed under the name Dry-Flo® by National Starch or powders of waxy maize starch, such as those marketed under the names C* Gel 04201 by Cargill, Corn Starch B by Roquette, and Organic Corn Starch by Draco Natural Products;
  • - cellulose in particular in the form of spherical particles, such as products of the Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5, and Cellulobeads USF type marketed by Daito Kasei Kogyo;
  • amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.
  • Examples include the lauroyl lysine marketed in particular under the names Amihope LL by Ajinomoto or Corum 5105 by Corum.
  • these also include particles of acrylic (co)polymers and derivatives thereof, for example the polymers having the following INCI names: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, polyamide particles, such as nylon; silicone particles, especially particles of silicone resins (for example Polymethylsilsesquioxane), silicone elastomer, especially Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, particles of Methylsilanol/S
  • the optional organic filler is preferably not selected from silicone fillers, nor from acrylic (co)polymers, acrylonitriles, polyurethanes and polyamides, as described earlier.
  • the composition does not comprise polymeric organic fillers, which are considered to be microplastics.
  • microplastics are understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning solid particles, of stable form, of polymer comprising carbon atoms in the polymer chain (backbone), of synthetic origin or of chemically modified natural origin, that are insoluble in water (i.e. less than 2 g/l; OECD Directive 105) and less than 5 mm in size (less than 15 mm in size for fibers).
  • a “stable form” refers to particles that remain solid in the composition and after use thereof. For example, polymer particles forming a film in the composition or when the latter is used are not considered to be of stable form.
  • the content thereof is preferably less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight and advantageously less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of organic filler(s) of the aforementioned microplastics type is preferably less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and very advantageously, the composition does not contain organic fillers.
  • the organic filler may preferably be selected from cellulose particles, particles of N-(C 8 -C 22 acyl)amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the content of organic filler(s) represents from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not comprise polymeric organic fillers, which are considered to be microplastics.
  • microplastics are understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning solid particles, of stable form, of polymer comprising carbon atoms in the polymer chain (backbone), of synthetic origin or of chemically modified natural origin, that are insoluble in water (i.e. less than 2 g/l; OECD Directive 105) and less than 5 mm in size (less than 15 mm in size for fibers).
  • a “stable form” refers to particles that remain solid in the composition and after use thereof. For example, polymer particles forming a film in the composition or when said composition is used are not considered to be of stable form.
  • the composition according to the invention does not comprise particles of acrylic polymers or copolymers, acrylonitriles, polyurethanes, polyamides, tetrafluoroethylene polymers or silicone polymers, as described previously.
  • their content is preferably less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and advantageously less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of organic fillers of the aforementioned microplastics type is preferably less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and very advantageously, the composition does not contain such fillers.
  • the composition preferably comprises at least one mineral filler selected from kaolin, mica, perlite, glass particles, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition also preferably comprises at least one organic filler, particularly cellulose, N-(C 8 -C 22 acyl)amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of filler(s) advantageously represents from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer present in at least one oil as vehicle that is identical to or different from the first or second oil.
  • a “silicone elastomer” is understood as meaning a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and possesses a limited stretchability and contractability. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.
  • “In a vehicle” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning that the silicone elastomer is introduced into the composition in a form predispersed in at least one oil. More particularly, the elastomer is in the form of a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in said oil that is stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C. Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least one first oil.
  • a silicone elastomer powder suspended in at least one such oil is not considered for the purposes of the invention to be an organopolysiloxane elastomer present in at least one oil as vehicle.
  • an “emulsifying silicone elastomer” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning an amphiphilic silicone elastomer, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. Generally, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase) and is in particular constituted by the organopolysiloxane chain. The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water), in particular constituted of polyoxyalkylenated groups and/or polyglycerolated groups.
  • Emulsifying silicone elastomers are characterized by the value of their HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule.
  • HLB hydrophilic lipophilic balance
  • the term “HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).
  • the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O/W emulsions.
  • the HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.
  • the emulsifying silicone elastomer may be selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen attached to silicon with a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
  • the crosslinked polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A1) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each attached to a silicon with (B1) a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of (C1) a platinum catalyst, as described for example in patents US 5236986 and US 5412004.
  • the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reacting polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups with methylhydrogenpolysiloxane having trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • polyoxyalkylene in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene
  • methylhydrogenpolysiloxane having trimethylsiloxy end groups
  • the organic groups attached to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • Compound (A1) may thus be selected from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
  • Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on a support.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers may be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular through polyoxyalkylenes having at least two vinyl groups reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.
  • the silicone elastomer in particular polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer, is present in at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or a silicone oil as vehicle that is/are identical to or different from the first and second oils described above, in particular in the form of a gel.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer When present in a vehicle, may be in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in patents US 5236986, US 5412004, US 5837793, and US5811487.
  • Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers that may be used are those having the following INCI names: Dimethicone/PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer, PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15/Lauryl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is Dimethicone/PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer.
  • KSG® names by Shin-Etsu: KSG-210® (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer), KSG-310® (PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Mineral oil), KSG-320Z® (Isododecane (and) PEG-15/Lauryl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer), KSG-330® ( Triethylhexanoin (and) PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer), KSG-340® (Squalane (and) PEG-10/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer).
  • the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen attached to silicon with polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each attached to a silicon with (B) glycerolated compounds having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.
  • the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerolated compound with a trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A) is the base reactant for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is effected by an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
  • Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms attached to different silicon atoms within each molecule.
  • Compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
  • Compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, particularly in order to be readily miscible with compound (B).
  • the organic groups attached to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • said organic group is selected from methyl, phenyl, and lauryl groups.
  • Compound (A) may thus be selected from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
  • Compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B'): C m H 2m-1 -O-[ Gly ] n -C m H 2m-1 (B') in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to 50, n preferably ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10 and preferably ranging from 2 to 5 and in particular equal to 3; Gly denotes: -CH 2 -CH(OH)-CH 2 -O- or -CH 2 -CH(CH 2 OH)-O-.
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms attached to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is advantageously at least 4.
  • compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total number of hydrogen atoms attached to silicon atoms in compound (A) to the total number of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1.
  • Compound (C) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on a support.
  • Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
  • the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or one silicone oil to form a gel.
  • the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • Such elastomers are described in particular in patent application WO 2004/024798.
  • Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers that may be used are the following compounds having the INCI names: Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • KSG-710® Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
  • KSG-810® Mineral Oil (and) Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
  • KSG-820® Isododecane (and) Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
  • KSG-830® Triethylhexanoin (and) Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
  • KSG-840® Squalane (and) Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer).
  • the elastomer used in the composition according to the invention is a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer, more particularly Dimethicone/PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer.
  • the content of emulsifying silicone elastomer(s), expressed as active material ranges from 2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 3% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional, non-emulsifying silicone elastomer present in at least one oil as vehicle that is identical to or different from the first or second oil.
  • non-emulsifying defines silicone elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain and in particular do not contain any polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) units or polyglyceryl units.
  • the organopolysiloxane particles may be spherical or non-spherical particles.
  • the silicone elastomer may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen attached to silicon with a diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups attached to silicon, or else a hydrocarbon chain having an ethylenic unsaturation at either end, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by a dehydrogenating crosslinking condensation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen attached to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by a crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of an organo
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each attached to a silicon with (B) a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups attached to silicon, in particular in the presence of (C) a platinum catalyst, as described for example in patent application EP-A-295886.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane with a trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A) is the base reactant for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is effected by an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
  • Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms attached to different silicon atoms within each molecule.
  • Compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
  • Compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, particularly in order to be readily miscible with compound (B).
  • the organic groups attached to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl
  • substituted aryl groups such as pheny
  • Compound (A) can thus be selected from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers or dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers.
  • Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower (for example C 2 -C 4 ) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group can be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position in the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
  • the organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear-chain structure is preferred.
  • Compound (B) can have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
  • the other organic groups attached to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl
  • substituted aryl groups such as phen
  • the organopolysiloxanes (B) may be selected from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane with a trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms attached to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is advantageously at least 5.
  • compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total number of hydrogen atoms attached to silicon atoms in compound (A) to the total number of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.
  • Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on a support.
  • Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in patents EP 242 219, EP 295 886, and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61-194 009.
  • the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is selected from the compounds having the following INCI names: Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, and preferably from Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
  • the elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is present in an oil as vehicle that may be identical to or different from the first and second oils and from the additional oils described above and to the descriptions of which reference may be made.
  • the oil is selected from silicone oils and from volatile or nonvolatile, preferably nonvolatile, polar or nonpolar hydrocarbon oils.
  • the oil is selected from volatile linear or cyclic, preferably linear, silicone oils.
  • the oil is selected from the following nonvolatile phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, in particular having the following INCI names: Dimethicone, Methyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Methicone, Phenyl Dimethicone, and Phenyl Trimethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil selected from those of Dimethicone type, in particular having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 5 to 500 cSt at 25°C.
  • the oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, for example isododecane, or nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon oils, for example esters such as triethylhexanoin and vegetable oils.
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used are more particularly those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-016F, KSG-18A, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, USG-102, USG-103, USG-105, USG-106, and USG-107A by Shin Etsu Company; Dowsil DC9040 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil DC9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9045 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9350 Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9241 Silicone Elastomer Blend, and Dowsil EL-9140 DM Silicone Elastomer Blend by Dow Chemical Company; SFE 839 Gel by Momentive Performance Materials.
  • the content of additional, non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s), expressed as active material, if present in the composition ranges from 0.3% to less than 5% by weight, preferably to less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of additional, non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s), expressed as active material is less than that of emulsifying silicone elastomer(s), expressed as active material.
  • the weight ratio between the content, expressed as active material, of additional, non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) and that of emulsifying silicone elastomer(s), expressed as active material is less than 1.
  • said ratio is less than or equal to 0.3, more particularly less than or equal to 0.2, and advantageously greater than or equal to 0.1.
  • the total content of emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) and additional, non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s), each expressed as active material ranges from 2.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one wax.
  • a “wax” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning a lipophilic compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C that may be up to 120°C.
  • the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments, with the TA Universal Analysis software.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature ramp from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally is subjected to a second temperature ramp from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.
  • the waxes may be silicone waxes and are preferably hydrocarbon waxes. They are also of vegetable, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes have a melting temperature of preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better still greater than or equal to 40°C.
  • nonpolar hydrocarbon wax is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning a wax constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms, for example N, O, Si, P, etc.
  • nonpolar waxes suitable for use in the invention include in particular hydrocarbon waxes, such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes (or also Synthetic Wax) and microwaxes, in particular polyethylene microwaxes.
  • hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes (or also Synthetic Wax) and microwaxes, in particular polyethylene microwaxes.
  • Polar waxes may in particular be hydrocarbon waxes.
  • a “polar hydrocarbon wax” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning a wax having a chemical structure that is formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and that comprises at least one heteroatom more particularly selected from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • a polar hydrocarbon wax is preferably a wax selected from ester waxes and alcohol waxes.
  • ester wax is understood in accordance with the invention as meaning a wax comprising at least one ester function.
  • the ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.
  • alcohol wax is understood in accordance with the invention as meaning a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
  • ester waxes alone or as mixtures in particular:
  • waxes of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 6 to 50, in particular from 10 to 50, and which may contain a heteroatom, for example O or N, and having a melting temperature ranging more particularly from 30°C to 120°C.
  • Ester waxes used may in particular be a C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate.
  • Such waxes are in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P ® , Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ® , Kester Wax K 80 P ® or Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen. It is also possible to use stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof.
  • the C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains for example hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated coconut kernel oil
  • waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example Phytowax Castor 22L73 ®
  • the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as those of the Phytowax Olive range, for example Phytowax Olive 18L57 marketed by Sophim.
  • Such waxes are described in particular in patent application FR2792190.
  • the waxes corresponding to the partial or total esters preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C 16 -C 30 carboxylic acid with glycerol.
  • Total esters are understood as meaning that all the hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture.
  • Suitable compounds include triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid or hydrogenated castor oil, for example Thixcin R and Thixcin E marketed by Elementis Specialties.
  • waxes of animal or vegetable origin such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, or sunflower wax, particularly in refined form.
  • Also employable are natural or synthetic polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon waxes of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylene (C 2 -C 4 ) units can vary from 2 to 100 and the number of glycerol units can vary from 1 to 20.
  • Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin waxes, such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, the Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerolated vegetable waxes, such as mimosa, jojoba or sunflower waxes, and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters).
  • a “silicone wax” is understood as meaning a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.
  • Silicone waxes include for example mixtures comprising a compound of C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) type, for example the product Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax marketed by Dow Corning. They also include mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyl Methicone (INCI name) type, for example the product Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. They likewise include siliconized beeswax.
  • ICI name Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane
  • the wax is selected from hydrocarbon waxes.
  • nonpolar waxes such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes of animal or vegetable origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; and also mixtures thereof; and preferably from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, for example polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, Synthetic Wax, and also from polar hydrocarbon waxes such as in particular hydrogenated jojoba oil, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.
  • polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes of animal or vegetable origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils
  • nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes for example polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, Synthetic Wax, and also from polar hydrocarbon waxes such as in particular hydrogenated jojoba oil, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.
  • the content of wax(es) advantageously ranges from 6% to 18% by weight, more particularly from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound.
  • a “pasty compound” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and including at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • a pasty compound may have a melting temperature commencing below 20°C.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that described in detail previously for waxes. However, in the case of a pasty compound the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally is subjected to a second temperature ramp from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.
  • liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance pass from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
  • said pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) is/are selected from:
  • - vegetable butters for example mango butter, such as the product marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by AarhusKarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product having the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by AarhusKarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter, such as the product marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, and also orange wax, for example the product marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen;
  • - totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm, and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for example the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance;
  • esters obtained from the condensation of a linear or branched, preferably saturated, C 6 -C 10 dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and linear or branched, preferably saturated, optionally hydroxylated C 6 -C 20 monocarboxylic acids, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C 6 -C 20 fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, marketed in particular under the reference Softisan® 649 by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2);
  • - triglycerides of fatty acids that are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 -C 18 , and optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially); for example the glycerides of saturated C 12 -C 18 fatty acids marketed under the name Softisan 100® by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides);
  • esters of dimer dilinoleyl alcohol and dimer dilinoleic acid the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
  • esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
  • esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dimer dilinoleic acid such as those sold under the names Risocast-DA-L or Risocast-DA-H by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).
  • the pasty compound(s) is/are preferably selected from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, esters obtained from the condensation of a linear or branched C 6 -C 10 dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C 6 -C 20 monocarboxylic acids, triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 -C 18 , fatty acids, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the pasty compound(s) is/are even more preferably selected from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds having the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, and also mixtures thereof.
  • their content preferably ranges from 6% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one colorant that is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
  • the colorant may be selected from coated or uncoated pigments, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • Pigments are understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous medium and are intended to color the composition and/or resulting deposit.
  • the pigments used according to the invention are selected from mineral pigments.
  • a “mineral pigment” is understood as meaning any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
  • Mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention include zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, such as aluminum powder and copper powder.
  • the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta 2 O 5 , Ti 3 O 5 , Ti 2 O 3 , TiO, ZrO 2 as a mixture with TiO 2 , ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , CeO 2 , ZnS.
  • the pigment size that is of use in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the sizes are measured by laser diffraction using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which permits the determination of the particle size distribution of the totality of the particles over a wide range that may extend from 0.01 ⁇ m to 1000 ⁇ m.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an “effective” particle diameter to be determined. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.
  • the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.
  • examples include more particularly titanium dioxides and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, marketed for example under the reference NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.
  • Mineral pigments that can be used in the invention also include pearls.
  • Pigls should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, produced in particular by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect through optical interference.
  • the pearls may be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic dye, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles overlaid on the surface with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
  • pearls also include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the pearls may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or tint.
  • Pigments employable according to the invention also include those having an optical effect different from a simple conventional coloring effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect such as is produced by conventional colorants, for example monochromatic pigments.
  • the term “stabilized” means lacking the effect of variability of the color with angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.
  • this material may be selected from particles having a metallic tint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, in particular interference fibers. These various materials may of course be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
  • This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Where they have been treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then serve as a vehicle therefor.
  • the coating may also comprise at least one additional, non-lipophilic compound.
  • the “coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent that is absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
  • the surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
  • the surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction, and creation of a covalent bond.
  • the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.
  • the coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.
  • the coating may be produced for example by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing, with stirring, of the particles and said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
  • the coating may be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in patent US 4 578 266.
  • the chemical surface treatment can consist of diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
  • the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound selected from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone surface agents selected from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
  • the colorant is an organic pigment that is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
  • organic pigment is understood as meaning any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may in particular be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
  • the organic pigment(s) may be selected for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880
  • the pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment may also be a lake.
  • a “lake” is understood as meaning insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
  • Organic dyes also include cochineal carmine. They also include the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
  • D&C Red 21 CI 45 380
  • D&C Orange 5 CI 45 370
  • D&C Red 27 CI 45 410
  • D&C Orange 10 CI 45 425
  • D&C Red 3 CI 45 430
  • D&C Red 4 CI 15 510
  • D&C Red 33 CI 17 200
  • An example of a lake is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
  • a “liposoluble dye” is understood for the purposes of the invention as meaning any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents miscible with the oily phase and is capable of imparting color.
  • liposoluble dyes suitable for use in the invention include in particular the liposoluble dyes DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, and Sudan Brown.
  • natural liposoluble dyes include in particular carotenes, such as ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, quinazine green SS), and chlorophylls.
  • carotenes such as ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene and lycopene
  • quinoline yellow such astaxant
  • the composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight, and even more particularly from 5% to 15% by weight, of colorant(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may also be free of colorant(s).
  • the composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water.
  • the water content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the content of water, if present in the composition does not exceed 1% by weight, in particular does not exceed 0.5% by weight, and even more particularly still does not exceed 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may also contain at least one optional adjuvant selected from those customarily used in the cosmetics field, particularly for compositions for makeup and/or care of the skin and lips.
  • Examples include lipophilic mineral thickeners, organic thickeners, for example dextrin esters; preservatives; antioxidants; complexing agents; solvents; active agents; fragrances; etc.
  • Lipophilic mineral thickeners which are distinct from the mineral fillers mentioned above and in particular different from the aforementioned lipophilic clays, include the compounds selected from those having the following INCI names: Silica Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, and also mixtures thereof.
  • These optional adjuvants may be present in a content that can range up to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be prepared according to conventional methods in the field, preferably with a filler of lipophilic clay type comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group that is employed in powder form and not in a predispersed form, especially in the form of a gel, in particular in a solvent selected for example from C 1 -C 2 alcohols, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and also mixtures thereof.
  • a filler of lipophilic clay type comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group that is employed in powder form and not in a predispersed form, especially in the form of a gel, in particular in a solvent selected for example from C 1 -C 2 alcohols, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name.
  • composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are collated in the table below.
  • Oily phase Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, AarhusKarlshamn) 15.2 Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649, IOI) 42.1 Isostearyl Isostearate 10.6 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000, Wacker) 6.7 Octyldodecanol 25 Antioxidant 0.3
  • the oily phase and the waxes are mixed with stirring while heating to 95°C.
  • the fillers kaolin, glass beads, perlite, lauroyl lysine, Disteardimonium Hectorite, mica
  • the carnauba wax the additives, and the fragrance are added with stirring.
  • composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are collated in the table below:
  • Composition 2 Oily phase (example 1) qs 100 C15-19 Alkane (Emogreen L15, Seppic) 20.0 Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer (KSG-210; Shin Etsu) 15.0 Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dowsil EL-9241 DM Silicone Elastomer Blend; Dow Chemical) 7.0 Polyethylene (Performalene 500-L Polyethylene, Nucera Solutions) 1.0 Mica (Mearlmica SV; BASF) 2.5 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes, Vantage Personal Care) 4.0 Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax (Microcare 350; Micro Powders) 2.0 Paraffin (and) Microcrystalline Wax (and) Synthetic Wax (Paracera 30540, Paramelt) 5.0 Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (
  • Composition 2 Hardness 100 g Gloss 10 Appearance of stick Homogeneous without defects Application Easy, in an intense, covering, homogeneous deposit having a very matte appearance and exhibiting good wear properties over time. Comfort Comfortable, does not dry out the lips.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique solide et mate, de préférence sous forme de stick, destinée à être appliquée sur la peau et/ou les lèvres, comprenant * au moins 10 % en poids d'au moins une première huile hydrocarbonée non polaire, saturée ou insaturée, de préférence saturée, linéaire ou ramifiée en C14-C19; * au moins une seconde huile non volatile choisie parmi les huiles hydrocarbonées polaires ou non polaires non volatiles distinctes de la première huile, ou les huiles siliconées non volatiles ; * au moins un élastomère de silicone émulsionnant présent dans au moins une huile comme véhicule identique ou différent de la première ou de la deuxième huile ; * au moins une charge organique ou minérale, comprenant au moins une charge de type argile lipophile comportant au moins un groupement ammonium quaternaire ; * éventuellement de l'eau en une teneur inférieure ou égale à 5% en poids. L'invention concerne également un procédé de maquillage et/ou de soin de la peau et/ou des lèvres, qui consiste à appliquer ladite composition.
PCT/EP2025/063353 2024-05-31 2025-05-15 Composition solide et mate renfermant un élastomère de silicone émulsifiant, une huile hydrocarbonée non polaire, une huile non volatile supplémentaire et une charge Pending WO2025247652A1 (fr)

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FR2405687A FR3162638A1 (fr) 2024-05-31 2024-05-31 Composition solide mate comprenant un elastomere silicone emulsionnant, une huile hydrocarbonee apolaire, une huile non volatile addtionnelle, une charge et procede la mettant en œuvre
FRFR2405687 2024-05-31

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