WO2025201736A1

WO2025201736A1 - Cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2025201736A1
Application number: PCT/EP2025/054211
Authority: WO
Inventors: Xiaoyun Pan; Xuezhi TANG; Xinran ZHOU
Original assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV; Conopco Inc
Current assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV; Conopco Inc
Priority date: 2024-03-26
Filing date: 2025-02-17
Publication date: 2025-10-02
Anticipated expiration: 2026-09-26

Abstract

A cosmetic composition is disclosed comprising i) a scalp health agent; and ii) a natural active selected from cotoin, isoliquiritigenin, xanthohumol, pinostrobin chalcone, and a mixture thereof; wherein the scalp health agent is selected from a group consisting of polyvalent metal salts of pyrithione, hydroxamic acid, hinokitiol, azole compound and selenium sulfide; wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said active to that of said scalp health agent is from 1:100 to 100:1.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Field of the Invention

This invention relates to cosmetic compositions, preferably skin or hair care compositions. More particularly the invention relates to cosmetic compositions that comprise certain scalp health agent and a specific natural active.

Background of the Invention

Almost all organisms and tissues utilize a lipid barrier for protection from the external environment. Skin surface lipids can be categorized as sebaceous lipids and extracellular lipids based on their origin and composition. Sebaceous lipids are secreted from sebaceous glands and form a layer of hydrolipidic film together with sweat secreted by sweat glands. These components moisturize the skin, prevent moisture loss, and resist harm from foreign matters. The main lipid components include squalene, triglycerides, free fatty acids, wax esters, cholesterol, and cholesteryl ester. Extracellular lipids mainly refer to lipids among stratum corneum, mainly including ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. Lamellar bodies eventually released lipids precursors and lipid synthases into extracellular spaces of stratum corneum, and then, the lipids precursors were catalyzed by the lipid synthases to produce extracellular lipids. In the daily life, the skin/scalp and hair are exposed to many pollutants, the surface lipids on skin/scalp and hair are easily oxidized.

There remains a need to provide a composition delivering improved lipids protection efficacy onto the surface of skin/scalp and hair, upon applying the products.

The present inventors have now found unexpectedly that the combination of certain scalp health agent and a specific natural active can provide improved lipid protection efficacy onto a topical surface of a human or animal body, preferably on skin/scalp and hair.

US2023262996 (Conopco, Inc., d/b/a Unilever) discloses a hair care composition comprising (i) a benzophenone derivative selected from benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, benzophenone- 8, and any combination thereof and (ii) a piroctone olamine. However, it does not disclose the natural active selected from cotoin, isoliquiritigenin, xanthohumol, pinostrobin chaicone, and a mixture thereof. US2022040068 (Conopco, Inc., d/b/a Unilever) discloses a hair care composition comprising composite particles comprising zinc pyrithione as photolabile antidandruff agent and an organic UV filter such as benzophenone-8. However, it does not disclose the natural active selected from cotoin, isoliquiritigenin, xanthohumol, pinostrobin chaicone, and a mixture thereof.

WO2010044076 (Sederma) discloses topical composition comprising xanthohumol as active agent that improves the general condition of skin or hair. The composition may comprise an antimicrobial active such as piroctone olamine or selenium sulfide, azoles, or an anti-dandruff active such as salts of pyrithione. However, it does not disclose the weight ratio of the amount of said active to that of said scalp health agent is from 1 : 100 to 100: 1.

US2016346184 (The Procter & Gamble Company) discloses a method of improving the health of hair emerging from a scalp comprising a reduction of oxidative stress in the scalp by application of a composition resulting in reduction in oxidative stress in pre-emergent hair as demonstrated by reduced oxidative stress in emergent hair, wherein oxidative stress is measured by a level of a biomarker such as squalene. However, it does not comprise the natural active selected from cotoin, isoliquiritigenin, xanthohumol, pinostrobin chaicone, and a mixture thereof

Summary of the Invention

In a first aspect, the present invention is directed to a cosmetic oil composition comprising: i) a scalp health agent; and ii) a natural active selected from cotoin, isoliquiritigenin, xanthohumol, pinostrobin chaicone, and a mixture thereof; wherein said scalp health agent is selected from a group consisting of polyvalent metal salts of pyrithione, hydroxamic acid, hinokitiol, azole compound and selenium sulfide; wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said active to that of said scalp health agent is from 1:100 to 100:1.

In a second aspect, the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition of the first aspect for use in providing surface lipids protection benefit on a topical surface of a human or animal body against the pollutants of the external environment including UV, 03 and engine exhaust. In a third aspect, the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition of the first aspect for use in protecting surface lipids against oxidation on a topical surface of a human or animal body.

In a fourth aspect, the present invention is directed to a non-therapeutic method of providing surface lipids protection benefit on a topical surface of a human or animal body against the pollutants of the external environment including UV, O3 and engine exhaust comprising a step of applying a safe and effective amount of a cosmetic composition of the first aspect.

All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent upon considering the detailed description and examples which follow.

Detailed Description of the Invention

By ‘a cosmetic composition’ as used herein, is meant to include a composition for topical application to skin, hair and/or scalp of mammals, especially human beings. Such a composition is generally applied on to the desired topical surface of the body for a period of time from a few seconds to up to 24 hours. When the period of time of application is low say of the order of a few seconds to a few minutes after which the composition is rinsed off with water or wiped away, such a composition is known as a cleansing composition or a wash-off composition. On the other hand, When the composition is applied for longer period of time say from several minutes to up to 24 hours and washed off usually during the process of normal personal cleaning, such a composition is known as a leave-on composition. The composition as per the present invention includes any product applied to a human body for also improving appearance, cleansing, odor control or general aesthetics.

Miscellaneous

Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use may optionally be understood as modified by the word “about”.

All amounts are by weight of the final hair care composition, unless otherwise specified. It should be noted that in specifying any ranges of values, any particular upper value can be associated with any particular lower value. For the avoidance of doubt, the word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of’ or “composed of”. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive.

The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy.

Where a feature is disclosed with respect to a particular aspect of the invention (for example a composition of the invention), such disclosure is also to be considered to apply to any other aspect of the invention (for example a method of the invention) mutatis mutandis.

Scalp health agent

In the present invention, the scalp health agent is selected from a group consisting of polyvalent metal salts of pyrithione, hydroxamic acid, hinokitiol, azole compound and selenium sulfide.

When the scalp health agent is a polyvalent metal salt of pyrithione, it is preferably zinc pyrithione.

When the scalp health agent is a hydroxamic acid, it is preferably selected from a group consisting of a piroctone compound (a cyclic hydroxamic acid), caprylhydroxamic acid and benzohydroxamic acid, more preferably piroctone olamine.

When the scalp health agent is an azole compound, it is selected from the group consisting of climbazole and ketoconazole.

The scalp health agent is particularly preferred a piroctone compound, more preferably piroctone olamine.

The scalp health agent may be present in an amount from 0.01% to 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.25% to 5%, and from 0.5% to 2% by weight of the composition.

The scalp health agent can be surfactant soluble and thus can be surfactant soluble scalp health agents. Natural active

The composition of the present invention comprises a natural active selected from a group consisting of cotoin, and natural flavonoids including isoliquiritigenin, xanthohumol and pinostrobin chaicone.

When the natural active is cotoin, the composition may comprise extract of Goto bark, Aniba coto or Garcinia virgata which in turn comprises cotoin.

When the natural active is isoliquiritigenin, the composition may comprise extract of Licorice, which in turn comprises isoliquiritigenin.

When the natural active is xanthohumol, the composition may comprise extract of Humulus lupulus, which in turn comprises xanthohumol.

When the natural active is pinostrobin chaicone, the composition may comprise extract of extract of Pigeon pea (Cajanus cajan), or extract of Lindera umbellate, or extract of Carya cathayensis, which in turn comprises pinostrobin chaicone.

The weight ratio of the natural active to that of the scalp health agent is from 1 : 100 to 100:1 , preferably from 1 : 10 to 10:1 , more preferably from 1 :4 to 4: 1.

It is preferred that the composition comprises from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 8%, more preferably from 0.25 to 5% of the natural active by weight of the composition.

Cosmetic composition

The composition of the invention preferably comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The cosmetically acceptable carrier is such that the composition can be prepared, e.g., as a shampoo, conditioner, body wash, hand wash or face wash product, cream, lotion, gel, powder, ointment, deodorant, hand sanitiser or a soap bar and the rest of the ingredients would vary accordingly. It is preferred that the cosmetically acceptable carrier comprises water.

It is preferred that the composition is a rinse-off or leave-on product, more preferably a hair care composition. Preferably the composition is a rinse-off product. Alternatively, the composition is preferably a leave-on composition. It is preferred that the composition comprises a cleansing surfactant. The composition of this invention preferably comprises a cleansing surfactant comprising an anionic surfactant.

Non-limiting examples of suitable anionic surfactants are alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule. Typical anionic surfactants for use in compositions of the invention include, but not limited to, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate or mixtures thereof.

Preferred anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates. Preferred alkyl sulphates are C8-18 alky sulphates, more preferably C12-18 alkyl sulphates, preferably in the form of a salt with a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. Examples are sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS). It is particularly preferred that the anionic surfactant is alkyl ether sulphate. Preferred alkyl ether sulphates are those having the formula: RO(CH2CH2O)_nSO3M; wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl having from 8 to 18 (preferably 12 to 18) carbon atoms; n is a number having an average value of greater than at least 0.5, preferably between 1 and 3, more preferably between 1 and 2; and M is a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. An example is sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES). Preferred alkyl ether sulphate is sodium lauryl ether sulphate having an average degree of ethoxylation of from 0.5 to 3, preferably from 1 to 3, more preferably from 1 to 2.

It is preferred that the anionic surfactant is an ethoxylated alkyl sulphate a degree of ethoxylation of less than 3, preferably an ethoxylated alkyl sulphate a degree of ethoxylation of less than 2, more preferably sodium laureth sulphate (1 EO). Alternatively, it is preferred that the surfactant is sulfate-free.

The composition may comprise an alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant of general formula (II):

RI-CH=CH-CH₂-SO₃-M⁺ (II) in which Ri is selected from linear or branched alkyl groups having from 11 to 13 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof; and M is a solubilizing cation;

Preferably Ri in general formula (II) is a C14 or C16 linear alkyl group.

Preferably M in general formula (II) is selected from alkali metal cations (such as sodium or potassium), ammonium cations and substituted ammonium cations (such as alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium).

Commercially produced alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactants of general formula (II) may be made by sulfating C14-16 olefins derived from natural gas. The process can also yield mixtures of homologues and low levels of unreacted olefins.

Particularly preferred is alpha olefin sulfonate with an average of 14-16 carbons. A suitable example of such a material is Bioterge AS40 (ex Stepan).

The amount of alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant, at 100 % activity, of general formula (II) ranges from 3 to 13 %, preferably from 3.5 to 12%, more preferably from 3 to 10%, (by weight based on the total weight of the composition).

The composition may comprise an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, selected from an alkyl betaine of general formula (III)

R₂-N⁺(CH₃)2-CH₂-COO- M⁺ (111) wherein R₂ = C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; an alkyl hydroxy sultaine of general formula (IV), R3-N⁺(CH₃)2-CH2-CH(OH)-CH₂-SO3- M (IV) wherein R3 = C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; an alkyl aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine of general formula (V),

R₄-CO-NH-(CH₂)3-N⁺(CH3)2-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-SO³- M⁺ (V) wherein R₄ = C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; an alkyl amphoacetate of general formula (VI),

R₅-CO-NH-(CH₂)₂-N(CH₂-CH₂-OH)(CH₂-COO- M⁺) (VI) wherein Rs = C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; and mixtures thereof.

The preferred surfactant (III) is selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, coco aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine, lauryl amphoacetate and mixtures thereof, most preferably selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine and mixtures thereof. Alkyl hydroxy sultaines are preferred, particularly lauryl hydroxy sultaine.

The amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of general formula (III), (IV), (V) or (VI) or mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 1 to 6%, more preferably from 1.5 to 5%, most preferably from 2 to 3.5 % (based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % activity).

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is preferably selected from a betaine amphoteric surfactant of general formula (III), which is coco betaine, an amphoteric surfactant of general formula (IV), which is lauryl hydroxy sultaine, and mixtures thereof, in an amount of from 1 to 4 % (by weight based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % activity).

The combined amount of (II) and (III) ranges from 4 to 20 wt %, preferably from 5 to 17 wt %, most preferably from 8 to 15 wt % (based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % activity). The composition may comprise alpha olefin sulfonate in an amount ranging from 3.25 to 8% (by weight based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % active material); and an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, coco aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine, lauryl amphoacetate or mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 1 to 4 % by weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant may range from 1 :1 to 6:1 , preferably from 1.5:1 to 5.

The anionic surfactants are typically present in the composition of the present invention at a level of from 0.5 to 20%, more preferably from 2 to 16% and most preferably from 3 to 16%, by weight of the composition.

Suitable amphoteric surfactant examples include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, wherein the alkyl group has from 8 to 19 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is a betaine surfactant. It is preferred that the betaine surfactant is one of alkyl amidopropyl betaines. Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) is particularly preferred.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt.%, more preferably from 1 to 5 wt.% of an amphoteric surfactant by weight of the composition.

The ratio of ethoxylated anionic surfactant to amphoteric surfactant in which the ratio of anionic surfactant to amphoteric surfactant is less than 10:1, preferably from 2:1 to 10:1, more preferably from 3:1 to 9:1.

The total amount of cleansing surfactant in the composition for use in the invention is generally from 3 to 35 wt%, preferably from 5 to 25 wt%, most preferably from 7 to 16 wt% of the total composition. When the composition is a leave-on composition, the composition may comprise a non-ionic surfactant, in an amount from 0.1 to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 15%, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition. The non-ionic surfactant can be one fatty alcohol ethoxylate or polyethoxylated monoester. The fatty alcohol ethoxylate can be one of C12-C18 fatty alcohol ethoxylates. The polyethoxylated monoester can be selected from a group consisting of polysorbate 21, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 20.

Typically leave-on compositions are substantially free from cleansing surfactants. Thus it is preferred that the composition comprises less than 1 wt% cleansing surfactant, more preferably less than 0.5 wt%, more preferably still less than 0.1% and most preferably from 0 to 0.01 wt%. Cleansing surfactants are typically anionic surfactants such as, for example, alkyl sulfates and/or alkyl ether sulfates.

The leave-on composition may comprise a moisturizing agent. Preferably the moisturizing agent is selected from the group consisting of 1 ,2-glycols, selected from caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol and C15-18 glycol.

The leave-on composition may also comprise a thickening agent. The thickening agent may be a polymer, a cellulose, a xanthan gum, or a gelatin.

Hair care composition

Preferably the composition is a shampoo, hair conditioner, hair cream, hair gel, hair serum, mousse or hair oil.

In a preferred embodiment, the hair care composition is rinse-off composition, particularly a shampoo. Shampoo compositions for use in the invention are generally aqueous, i.e. they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major component. Suitably, the shampoo composition will comprise from 50 to 98%, preferably from 60 to 92% water by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Such compositions are referred to as having an aqueous base.

The hair care composition may additionally comprise a conditioning agent to provide conditioning benefit. Preferably, the hair care composition comprises discrete dispersed droplets of a water-insoluble conditioning agent, which has a mean droplet diameter (D3,2) of less than 15 microns, preferably less than 10 microns, more preferably less than 5 microns, most preferably less than 3 microns. The mean droplet diameter (D3,2) of a water-insoluble conditioning agent may be measured by means of a laser light scattering technique, for example using a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.

The water-insoluble conditioning agent may include non-silicone conditioning agent comprising non-silicone oily or fatty materials such as hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the water-insoluble conditioning agent is emulsified silicone oil.

Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use in compositions of this invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in compositions of this invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96/31188. Preferably, the silicone oil comprises dimethicone, dimethiconol or a mixture thereof.

Suitable emulsified silicones for use in the hair care compositions of this invention are available as pre-formed silicone emulsions from suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and GE silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsion is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer.

Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include DC1785, DC1788, DC7128, all available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions of dimethiconol/dimethicone.

Another class of silicones which may be used are functionalized silicones such as amino functional silicones, meaning a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation “amodimethicone.”

The water-insoluble conditioning agent is generally present in hair care composition of this invention in an amount from 0.05 to 15%, preferably from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 8%, most preferably from 1 to 5%, based on total weight of the hair care composition. Preferably the composition of the invention further comprises a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acidcontaining monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impart pearlescence to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used; they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from Goodrich.

Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.

Mixtures of any of the above suspending agents may be used. Preferred is a mixture of crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline long chain acyl derivative.

The suspending agent is generally present in hair care composition of this invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.2 to 6%, and most preferably from 0.3 to 4%, based on total weight of the hair care composition and including all ranges subsumed therein.

Preservatives may also be incorporated into the hair care composition of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservatives include alkyl esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Illustrative yet non-limiting examples of the types of preservatives that may be used in this invention include, for examples, phenoxyethanol, sodium salicylate, methyl paraben, butyl paraben, propyl paraben, diazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, caprylyl glycol, disodium EDTA or mixtures thereof. In an especially preferred embodiment, the preservative is sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, sodium salicylate or a mixture thereof.

Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight of the hair care composition.

It is further preferred that the hair care composition of the invention comprises a cosmetic ingredient. Preferably the cosmetic ingredient is selected from the group consisting of a silicone, an antibacterial agent other than antidandruff agents, a foam booster, a perfume, encapsulates (for example encapsulated fragrance) a dye, a colouring agent, a pigment, a preservative, a thickener, a protein, a phosphate ester, a buffering agent, a pH adjusting agent, a pearlescer (for example; mica, titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide coated mica, ethylene glycol distearate (INCI glycol distearate)) and/or opacifier, a viscosity modifier, an emollient, a sunscreen, an emulsifier, a sensate active (for example menthol and menthol derivatives), vitamins, mineral oils, essential oils, lipids, natural actives, glycerin, natural hair nutrients such as botanical extracts, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives and amino acids, microcrystalline cellulose and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention includes from 0.01 to 20 wt% of the at least one cosmetic ingredient, more preferably from 0.05 to 10 wt%, still more preferably from 0.075 to 7.5 wt% and most preferably, from 0.1 to 5 wt% of the at least one cosmetic ingredient, by weight of the total composition.

As an alternative, the cosmetic composition of the invention is a hair conditioner. When conditioning benefits are to be delivered through the composition of the invention the composition is called a hair conditioner. Typically, the most popular conditioning agents used in hair care compositions are water-insoluble oily materials such as mineral oils, naturally occurring oils such as triglycerides and silicone polymers. Conditioning benefit is achieved by the oily material being deposited onto the hair resulting in the formation of a film, which makes the hair easier to comb when wet and more manageable when dry. An especially useful conditioning agent is a silicone, preferably a non-volatile silicone. Advantageously compositions herein may include one or more silicones. The silicones are conditioning agents found in dispersed or suspended particulate form. They are intended to deposit onto hair remaining behind after rinsing of the hair with water. Suitable silicone oils may include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers and mixtures thereof. Amino silicones are often formulated with shampoo compositions. Amino silicones are silicones containing at least one primary amine, secondary amine, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. High molecular weight silicone gums can also be utilized. Another useful type are the crosslinked silicone elastomers such as Dimethicone/Vinyl/Dimethicone Crosspolymers (e.g. Dow Corning 9040 and 9041).

It is preferred that hair conditioner composition of the invention comprises 0.1 to

10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 8 wt% silicone. Alternatively, the hair conditioner is silicone-free, containing not more than 1 wt% silicone. It is preferred that pH of the composition is more than 4.0, more preferably 5.0 to 7.0.

Hair conditioner composition of the invention preferably may also comprise 0.5 to 10 wt% fatty alcohol. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention.

Skin cleansing

The composition of the invention may be used for skin care e.g. body or face wash. The cosmetic composition may further comprise a surfactant. The preferred surfactants are nonionic surfactants.

Thus, in a highly preferred aspect, the topical compositions include the surfactant selected from the group of anionic surfactants.

When the surfactants are present, the topical composition preferably comprises 1 to 90% surfactant by weight of the composition.

When surfactant is used, a particularly preferred surfactant is soap. Soap is a suitable surfactant for personal washing applications of the topical composition of the invention. When present, the soap, of the present is preferably present in an amount of 1 to 90%, preferably from 10 to 85%, more preferably 25 to 75% by weight of the composition. Preferred compositions may include other known ingredients such as perfumes, pigments, preservatives, emollients, sunscreens, emulsifiers, gelling agents and thickening agents. Choice of these ingredients will largely depend on the format of the composition.

Water is a preferred carrier. When water is present, it is preferably present in at least 1%, more preferably at least 2%, furthermore preferably at least 5% by weight of the composition. When water is the carrier, a preferred liquid composition comprises 10 to 99.8% by weight water. The liquid topical composition is useful as a skin antiseptic liquid, for skin cleansing, in particular for hand wash or a face wash. When water is the carrier, a preferred solid composition comprises 5 to 30% by weight water.

The solid cosmetic composition is preferably in form of a shaped solid, more preferably a bar. The solid topical composition is particularly useful for skin cleansing in particular for hand wash or a face wash.

According to another aspect, inorganic particulate material is also a suitable carrier. When inorganic particulate material is the carrier, the topical composition is in a solid form. Preferably the inorganic particulate material is talc. When the inorganic particulate material is talc, the solid antimicrobial composition is particularly useful as a talcum powder for application on face or body.

In another aspect of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is suitable for use in wipes for personal hygiene.

Method and Use

The present invention provides for a cosmetic composition of the first aspect for use in providing surface lipids protection benefit on a topical surface of a human or animal body against the pollutants of the external environment including UV, 03 and engine exhaust, preferably on skin/scalp and hair, more preferably on scalp and hair. Preferably, the protection is against 03 and engine exhaust. Alternatively, it is preferred that the protection is against UV.

The present invention provides for a cosmetic composition of the first aspect for use in protecting surface lipids against oxidation on a topical surface of a human or animal body, preferably on skin/scalp and hair, more preferably on scalp and hair. The present invention provides for a non-therapeutic method of providing surface lipids protection benefit on a topical surface of a human or animal body against the pollutants of the external environment including UV, 03 and engine exhaust comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition of the first aspect. The surface is preferably on skin/scalp and hair, more preferably on scalp and hair. Preferably it is for cosmetic purpose. Preferably, the protection is against 03 and engine exhaust. Alternatively, it is preferred that the protection is against UV.

Mode of Use

The compositions of the invention are primarily intended for topical application to scalp and/or at least a portion of the hair or skin of an individual, either in rinse-off or leave-on compositions.

When the composition is a shampoo, it is topically applied to the hair and then massaged into the hair and scalp. Then it is rinsed with water prior to drying the hair.

The invention will be further illustrated by the following, non-limiting Examples, in which all percentages quoted are by weight based on total weight unless otherwise stated.

The examples are intended to illustrate the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples perse.

The Example demonstrated that the combination of certain scalp health agent and a natural active can provide improved protection for surface lipids against oxidation. The samples according to the formulations detailed in Table 1 are prepared. TABLE 1 The composition of model sebum as given below in Table 2 is prepared:

TABLE 2 Test method

Model sebum stock solution was prepared by dissolving model sebum (formulation listed above) in hexane at the concentration of 6.0 mg/mL. 1.0 mL of model sebum stock solution and 200 pL of samples in Table 1 were loaded in the well of 12-well plate, and dried for an hour to evaporate solvents. Then the plates were transferred to the stressor chamber for multiple stressors exposure. The chamber exposure condition is having temperature with 35-40°C, humidity with 80%, UV exposure (19.8J/cm²) for 5 hours, O3 exposure (0.1 ppm) for 0.5h, Engine exhaust (PM 2.5200pg/m³) for 0.5h to mimic the exposure under summer noon for 2 hours.

After the treatment, the sample in the plate was extracted with 1mL hexane for 3 times of each plate. The samples were analyzed with gas chromatography flame ionization detection (GC- FID) to quantify the residual of squalene. An Agilent 7890GC coupled to a flame ionization detector (Agilent, USA) was used for sample analysis. The sample separation was conducted on an Agilent DB-5MS column (30m*0.25mm*0.25pm). The temperature program was 80°C for 1 minutes, and then climbed to 320°C for 5 minutes with a 20°C/minute heating rates. The detector temperature was 280°C and inlet temperature was 300°C. The inject volume was 1.0 pL and split ratio was 20:1. The carrier were H2 (40 mL/min) and Air (40 mL/minute), and the make up gas was N2 (25 mL/minute). The residual percentage of squalene was calculated with the lipid mass before and after exposure.

The observations for average residual of squalene are summarised in Table 3.

TABLE 3

The observations tabulated in Tables 3 clearly indicate that the composition comprising the combination of the scalp health agent and specific natural active within the scope of the present invention can deliver improved protection of squalene against oxidation compared to the composition outside the scope (A and B), thus demonstrating the advantage.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: i) a scalp health agent; and ii) a natural active selected from cotoin, isoliquiritigenin, xanthohumol, pinostrobin chaicone, and a mixture thereof; wherein the scalp health agent is selected from a group consisting of polyvalent metal salts of pyrithione, hydroxamic acid, hinokitiol, azole compound and selenium sulfide; wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said active to that of said scalp health agent is from 1 : 100 to 100: 1.

2. A composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said active to that of said scalp health agent is from 1:10 to 10:1, preferably from 1:4 to 4:1.

3. A composition as claimed in claim 1 or claim 2 wherein said scalp health agent is a hydroxamic acid, preferably a piroctone compound, more preferably piroctone olamine.

4. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 3 wherein the composition comprises 0.01 to 10% of said scalp health agent by weight of the composition.

5. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 4 wherein composition comprises 0.01 to 10% of said active by weight of the composition.

6. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 5 wherein the composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier comprising water.

7. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 6 wherein the composition is a rinse-off or leave-on composition.

8. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 7 wherein the composition is a hair care composition.

9. A composition as claims in any of claims 1 to 8 wherein the composition comprises a surfactant.

10. A composition as claimed in claim 9 wherein the surfactant comprising an anionic surfactant, preferably alkyl sulphates or alkyl ether sulphates, more preferably sodium lauryl ether sulphate.

11. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 10 for use in providing surface lipids protection benefit on a topical surface of a human or animal body against the pollutants of the external environment including UV, O3 and engine exhaust.

12. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 10 for use in protecting surface lipids against oxidation on a topical surface of a human or animal body.

13. A non-therapeutic method of providing surface lipids protection benefit on a topical surface of a human or animal body against the pollutants of the external environment including UV, O3 and engine exhaust comprising a step of applying the cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 10.