WO2025149227A1

WO2025149227A1 - Cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2025149227A1
Application number: PCT/EP2024/084240
Authority: WO
Inventors: Zhehui GONG; Yingying PI
Original assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV; Conopco Inc
Current assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV; Conopco Inc
Priority date: 2024-01-10
Filing date: 2024-12-02
Publication date: 2025-07-17
Anticipated expiration: 2026-07-10

Abstract

A cosmetic composition is disclosed comprising i) an anionic surfactant; ii) a co-surfactant which is amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant; and iii) capryloyl glycine; wherein the weight ratio of said anionic surfactant to the amount of said co-surfactant surfactant is from 3:1 to 8:1.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Field of the Invention

This invention relates to cosmetic compositions, preferably hair care compositions. More particularly the invention relates to cosmetic compositions that comprise capryloyl glycine.

Background of the Invention

Capryloyl glycine is an amide of Glycine (amino acid) and Caprylic acid (a fatty acid that contains eight carbon atoms in the chain). It can offer skin protection & regulation by restoring the "acidic layer”. It has also been found to reduce sebum excess action modelled by 5a- reductase evaluation. Capryloyl glycine has also been found to inhibit the protease activity which is believed to be involved in hair shedding, thereby preventing or reducing hair shedding. It is considered as one of skin, scalp and/or hair health agents.

A common problem with such active is that deposition of the active onto the desired surface during wash process is minimum. The desired surface is typically skin, scalp and/or hair. During the excessive rinsing process, the majority of capryloyl glycine is likely to be washed away together with the surfactants. Consequently, there remains a need to improve the deposition of capryloyl glycine onto the surface of skin, scalp and/or hair during washing process.

The present inventors have now found unexpectedly that the specific surfactant system can improve the deposition of capryloyl glycine onto the surface of skin, scalp and/or hair.

Summary of the Invention

In a first aspect, the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising: i) an anionic surfactant; and ii) a co-surfactant which is amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant; and iii) capryloyl glycine; wherein the weight ratio of said anionic surfactant to the amount of said co-surfactant surfactant is from 3:1 to 8:1. In a second aspect, the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition of the first aspect for use in promoting health of skin, scalp and/or hair wherein promoting health of skin, scalp and/or hair means delivering sebum control benefit, and preventing or reducing hair shedding.

In a third aspect, the present invention is directed to a non-therapeutic method of promoting health of skin, scalp and/or hair, comprising the step of applying the composition of the first aspect onto skin, scalp and/or hair surfaces of an individual followed by rinsing the surfaces with water wherein promoting health of skin, scalp and/or hair means delivering sebum control benefit, and preventing or reducing hair shedding.

All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent upon considering the detailed description and examples which follow.

Detailed Description of the Invention

Cosmetic

By ‘a cosmetic composition’ as used herein, is meant to include a composition for topical application to skin, hair and/or scalp of mammals, especially human beings. Such a composition is generally applied on to the desired topical surface of the body for a period of time from a few seconds to up to 24 hours. When the period of time of application is low say of the order of a few seconds to a few minutes after which the composition is rinsed off with water or wiped away, such a composition is known as a cleansing composition or a wash-off composition. On the other hand, When the composition is applied for longer period of time say from several minutes to up to 24 hours and washed off usually during the process of normal personal cleaning, such a composition is known as a leave-on composition. The composition as per the present invention includes any product applied to a human body for also improving appearance, cleansing, odor control or general aesthetics. It is preferably the cosmetic composition is a rinse-off composition.

Hair Care

“Hair care composition”, as used herein, is meant to include a composition for topical application to hair and/or scalp of mammals, especially humans. Such a composition may be generally classified as leave-on or rinse off, and includes any product applied to a human body for also improving appearance, cleansing, odor control or general aesthetics. The composition of the present invention can be in the form of a liquid, lotion, cream, foam, scrub, gel, or bar. Non-limiting examples of such compositions include leave-on hair lotions, creams, and rinse-off shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, or toilet bar.

Molecular weight

“Molecular weight”, as used herein, refers to the weight average molecular mass of a given polymer. The weight average molecular weight (WAVG MW) of a given polymer is determined by SEC (Size Exclusion Chromatography) analysis using absolute calibration (universal calibration). Polysaccharide standards pulluan and dextran were used for calibration.

Charge density

“Charge density”, as used herein, refers to the number of cationic charges per weight unit of a given polymer. Cationic charge density can be calculated from the degree of substitution as described in WO 2013/011122, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety but especially page 8 lines 8-17. For example, for cationic guar polymer obtained by reacting with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, the cationic charge density may be calculated from the degree of substitution using the following equation:

Cationic charge density in milhequivalents per gram (meq/g)= — 162 —+1 —5 —1 ^X —DS

Miscellaneous

Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use may optionally be understood as modified by the word “about”.

All amounts are by weight of the final hair care composition, unless otherwise specified.

It should be noted that in specifying any ranges of values, any particular upper value can be associated with any particular lower value. For the avoidance of doubt, the word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of’ or “composed of”. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive.

The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy.

Where a feature is disclosed with respect to a particular aspect of the invention (for example a composition of the invention), such disclosure is also to be considered to apply to any other aspect of the invention (for example a method of the invention) mutatis mutandis.

Capryloyl glycine

Capryloyl glycine a functional ingredient with many benefits including controlling excessive secretion of sebum. It has also been found to inhibit the protease activity, which is believed to be involved in hair shedding, thereby preventing or reducing hair shedding. It is also known as N-(1 -oxooctyl) glycine (C10H19NO3). The CAS number is 14246-53-8 and the compound has the general formula (I) as below:

Amount of the capryloyl glycine in the composition of the invention would depend on the type of the cosmetic composition. The composition may comprise from 0.01 to 10% of capryloyl glycine, preferably from 0.05 to 5%, more preferably from 0.1 to 3%, furthermore preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of the composition.

Anionic surfactant

The composition in accordance with this invention comprises an anionic surfactant.

Non-limiting examples of suitable anionic surfactants are alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule. Typical anionic surfactants for use in compositions of the invention include, but not limited to, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate or mixtures thereof.

Preferred anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates. Preferred alkyl sulphates are C8-18 alky sulphates, more preferably C12-18 alkyl sulphates, preferably in the form of a salt with a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. Examples are sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS).

It is particularly preferred that the anionic surfactant is alkyl ether sulphate. Preferred alkyl ether sulphates are those having the formula: RO(CH2CH2O)_nSO3M; wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl having from 8 to 18 (preferably 12 to 18) carbon atoms; M is a solubilising cation comprising sodium, potassium, ammonium, substituted ammonium or mixtures thereof; n is the degree of ethoxylation of from 0.5 to 3. An example is sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES). Preferred alkyl ether sulphate is sodium lauryl ether sulphate having an average degree of ethoxylation of from 0.5 to 3, preferably from 1 to 3, more preferably from 1 to 2.

Alternatively, it is preferred that the surfactant is sulfate-free. The preferred sulfate-free surfactant comprises an alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant.

The composition may comprise an alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant of general formula (II):

RI-CH=CH-CH₂-SO₃-M⁺ (II) in which Ri is selected from linear or branched alkyl groups having from 11 to 13 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof; and M is a solubilizing cation; Preferably Ri in general formula (II) is a C14 or C16 linear alkyl group.

Preferably M in general formula (II) is selected from alkali metal cations (such as sodium or potassium), ammonium cations and substituted ammonium cations (such as alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium).

Commercially produced alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactants of general formula (II) may be made by sulfating C14-16 olefins derived from natural gas. The process can also yield mixtures of homologues and low levels of unreacted olefins.

Particularly preferred is alpha olefin sulfonate with an average of 14-16 carbons. A suitable example of such a material is Bioterge AS40 (ex-Stepan).

The amount of alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant, at 100% activity of general formula (II) ranges from 3 to 20%, preferably from 5 to 16%, more preferably from 8 to 14%, (by weight based on the total weight of the composition).

It is preferred that the composition of the present invention comprises from 1 to 30%, preferably from 5 to 20%, more preferably from 8 to 16% of the anionic surfactant by weight of the composition.

Co-surfactant

The composition in accordance with this invention comprises a co-surfactant which is amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.

The composition may comprise an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, selected from an alkyl betaine of general formula (III)

R₂-N⁺(CH₃)2-CH₂-COO- M⁺ (111) wherein R₂ = C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; an alkyl hydroxy sultaine of general formula (IV),

R3-N⁺(CH₃)2-CH2-CH(OH)-CH₂-SO3- M (IV) wherein R3 = C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; an alkyl aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine of general formula (V),

R₄-CO-NH-(CH₂)3-N⁺(CH3)2-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-SO³- M⁺ (V) wherein R₄ = C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; an alkyl amphoacetate of general formula (VI),

R₅-CO-NH-(CH₂)2-N(CH2-CH2-OH)(CH2-COO- M⁺) (VI) wherein Rs = C12 (Lauryl) or Coco derived; and mixtures thereof.

The preferred surfactant (III) is selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, coco aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine, lauryl amphoacetate and mixtures thereof, most preferably selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine and mixtures thereof. Alkyl hydroxy sultaines are preferred, particularly lauryl hydroxy sultaine.

The amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of general formula (IV), (V), (VI) or (VII) or mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 1 to 6%, more preferably from 1 to 5%, most preferably from 1 .5 to 4 % based on the total weight of the composition.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is preferably selected from a betaine amphoteric surfactant of general formula (III), which is coco betaine, an amphoteric surfactant of general formula (IV), which is lauryl hydroxy sultaine, and mixtures thereof, in an amount of from 1 to 5 % by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant may be selected from a group consisting of alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, wherein the alkyl group has from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. It is preferred that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant may be selected from a group consisting of lauryl amine oxide, coco betaine, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, coco aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine, lauryl amphoacetate, more preferably selected from a group consisting of cocamidopropyl betaine, and lauryl hydroxy sultaine.

Furthermore preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is a betaine surfactant. It is preferred that the betaine surfactant is one of alkyl amidopropyl betaines. Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) is particularly preferred.

When the anionic surfactant is alkyl ether sulphate, it is preferred that the co-surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.

When the anionic surfactant is alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant, it is preferred that the co-surfactant is lauryl hydroxy sultaine.

It is preferred that the composition comprising a surfactant system which is a combination of alkyl ether sulphate and cocamidopropyl betaine, or a combination of alpha olefin sulfonate and lauryl hydroxy sultaine.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.2 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 8%, more preferably 1 to 5% of the co-surfactant by weight of the composition.

The composition may comprise alpha olefin sulfonate in an amount ranging from 8 to 16% (by weight based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % active material); and an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant which is lauryl hydroxy sultaine in an amount ranging from 1 to 5 % by weight of the composition.

Alternatively, the composition may comprise alkyl ether sulphate in an amount ranging from 8 to 14% by weight of total composition; and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant which is a betaine surfactant in an amount ranging from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the co-surfactant in the composition is from 3:1 to 8:1, preferably from 3:1 to 7:1, more preferably from 4:1 to 7:1, even more preferably from 4:1 to 5:1. The total amount of surfactant in the composition for use in the invention is generally from 3 to 35 wt%, preferably from 5 to 25 wt%, most preferably from 7 to 16 wt% of the total composition.

Cationic

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a cationic polymer.

It is preferred that the cationic polymer has a molecular weight of from 50,000 to 5,000,000 g/mol and a charge density of from 0.25 to 7meg/g. It is preferred that the cationic polymer has a molecular weight of from 100,000 to 4,500,000 g/mol, more preferably from 1 ,200,000 to 4,500,000 g/mol, furthermore preferably from 1 ,500,000 to 2,500,000. It is preferred that the cationic polymer has a charge density of from 0.8 to 3meq/g, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.2 meq/g.

It is preferred that the cationic polymer has a molecular weight of 100,000 to 4,500,000 g/mol and a charge density of from 0.5 to 7meq/g, preferably cationic polymer has a molecular weight from 1 ,200,000 to 4,500,000 g/mol and a charge density of from 0.8 to 3meq/g, preferably cationic polymer has a molecular weight of from 1,200,000 to 4,500,000 g/mol and a charge density of from 1.5 to 2.2meq/g, more preferably cationic polymer has a molecular weight of from 1 ,500,000 to 2,200,000 g/mol and a charge density of from 1.5 to 2.2meq/g.

It is preferred that the cationic polymer is selected from a group consisting of cationic galactomannans, cationic cellulose, dialkyldiallylammonium halide homopolymers and copolymers, (meth)acrylamidopropyl trialkylammonium halide homopolymers and copolymers, trialkylammonioethyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers and copolymers, preferably selected from a group consisting of cationic galactomannans, and (meth)acrylamidopropyl trialkylammonium halide homopolymers and copolymers, more preferably is (meth)acrylamidopropyl trialkylammonium halide homopolymers and copolymers.

When the cationic polymer is a cationic galactomannan, it can be selected from the group consisting of cationic guar, tara, cassia, locust bean and fenugreek gums, preferably cationic galactomannan gum is fenugreek gums, more preferably is cationic guar. And the cationic guar is preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. The cationic polymer can be a cationic cellulose. Cationic cellulose is available, for example, from the Dow Chemical Company in their LICARE JR (trademark) and LR (trademark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from the Dow Chemical Company under the tradename Polymer LM-200. Most preferred is Polyquaternium 10, especially Polyquaternium 10 with a molecular weight (weight average by GPC) in the range 0.5 to 3 million Daltons and charge density in the range 0.5 to 3 meq/g. The preferred Polyquaternium 10 is available, for example, as LICARE™ JR30M from Dow Chemical.

The cationic polymer can be one of dialkyldiallylammonium halide homopolymers. It comprises the repeating units (III) as below:

R1 , R2: methyl or other alkyls; Y: Cl, Br or I

Preferably, it can be one of Polyquaternium-6 (PDADMAC), Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-

4, Polyquaternium-22 and Polyquaternium-39. More preferably it is Polyquaternium-6 (PDADMAC).

The cationic polymer can be one of (meth)acrylamidopropyl trialkylammonium halide homopolymers and copolymers. It comprises the repeating units (IV) as below:

R3: H or methyl R4, R5, R6: methyl or other alkyls

Z: Cl, Br or l

Preferably, it can be one of polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-69, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-113.

More preferably, it is acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer. An example of a suitable copolymer is commercially available from Ashland under the trade name N-Hance SP-100®. N-Hance SP-100® has a charge density of from 1.8 to 2.2 meq/g and a molecular weight of from 1 ,800,000 to 2,200,000 g/mol.

The cationic polymer can be one of trialkylammonioethyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers and copolymers. It comprises the repeating units (V) as below:

R7: H or methyl

R8, R9, R10: methyl or other alkyls

L: Cl, Br, I or CH3SO3

Preferably, it can be one of Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-37.

Generally, for cationic polysaccharide polymers, the hydroxyl groups of the non-modified monomeric sugar ring units are the sites for cationic substitution. Degree of substitution (DS) is typically in the range from 0 to 3 due to the fact that the monomeric sugar unit of most polysaccharide has in average three hydroxyl groups available for substitution. In addition to the DS, the cationic charge on polymers can also be quantified as cationic charge density. DS has previously been determined by different methods. For example, the cationic charge density of the polymer has in some cases been calculated based on a percent nitrogen content determined via the Kjeldahl method as described in US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests for nitrogen determination and is expressed in milliequivalents (meq) per gram. The cationic charge density of the polymer in the present invention is, however, calculated from the degree of substitution, which is measured by 1 H NMR in a solvent of deuterium oxide (D2O) and deuterium chloride (DCI) mixture.

In many cases the DS obtained from 1 H NMR measurement may not be suitable to be compared with that obtained from Kjeldahl method, due to the fact that the two methods are influenced by different factors.

In the wide spectrum of molecular weights of guars available, the cationic guar for use in the present invention has a molecule weight which is considered a ‘medium’ molecular weight. In the wide range of charge densities, the above range for use in the present invention is considered a ‘medium’ range.

It is more preferred that the cationic polymer is acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer.

The cationic polymer is preferably present in an amount of from 0.01 to 5%, more preferably from 0.05 to 3%, furthermore preferably 0.1 to 2%, most preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight of the composition.

Cosmetic

The composition of the invention preferably comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The cosmetically acceptable carrier is such that the composition can be prepared, e.g., as a shampoo, conditioner, body wash, hand wash or face wash product, cream, lotion, gel, powder, ointment, deodorant, hand sanitiser or a soap bar and the rest of the ingredients would vary accordingly. It is preferred that the cosmetically acceptable carrier comprises water.

The composition may comprise a scalp health agent selected from a group consisting of zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid, piroctone compound, hinokitiol, azole compound including climbazole and ketoconazole, selenium sulfide.

The composition may also comprise an antimicrobial agent. It is preferred that the composition is a rinse-off composition, more preferably a hair care composition.

Hair care

It is preferred that the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a hair care composition, more preferably is a shampoo.

Shampoo compositions for use in the invention are generally aqueous, i.e. they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major component. Suitably, the shampoo composition will comprise from 50 to 98%, preferably from 60 to 92% water by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Such compositions are referred to as having an aqueous base.

The hair care composition may additionally comprise a conditioning agent to provide conditioning benefit. Preferably, the hair care composition comprises discrete dispersed droplets of a water-insoluble conditioning agent, which has a mean droplet diameter (D3,2) of less than 15 microns, preferably less than 10 microns, more preferably less than 5 microns, most preferably less than 3 microns. The mean droplet diameter (D3,2) of a water-insoluble conditioning agent may be measured by means of a laser light scattering technique, for example using a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.

The water-insoluble conditioning agent may include non-silicone conditioning agent comprising non-silicone oily or fatty materials such as hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the water-insoluble conditioning agent is emulsified silicone oil.

Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use in compositions of this invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in compositions of this invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96/31188. Preferably, the silicone oil comprises dimethicone, dimethiconol or a mixture thereof. Suitable emulsified silicones for use in the hair care compositions of this invention are available as pre-formed silicone emulsions from suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and GE silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsion is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer. Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include DC1785, DC1788, DC7128, all available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions of dimethiconol/dimethicone.

Another class of silicones which may be used are functionalized silicones such as amino functional silicones, meaning a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation “amodimethicone.”

The water-insoluble conditioning agent is generally present in hair care composition of this invention in an amount from 0.05 to 15%, preferably from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 8%, most preferably from 1 to 5%, based on total weight of the hair care composition.

Preferably the composition of the invention further comprises a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acidcontaining monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impart pearlescence to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used; they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from Goodrich.

Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu. Mixtures of any of the above suspending agents may be used. Preferred is a mixture of crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline long chain acyl derivative.

The suspending agent is generally present in hair care composition of this invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.2 to 6%, and most preferably from 0.3 to 4%, based on total weight of the hair care composition and including all ranges subsumed therein.

Preservatives may also be incorporated into the hair care composition of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservatives include alkyl esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Illustrative yet non-limiting examples of the types of preservatives that may be used in this invention include, for examples, phenoxyethanol, sodium salicylate, methyl paraben, butyl paraben, propyl paraben, diazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, caprylyl glycol, disodium EDTA or mixtures thereof. In an especially preferred embodiment, the preservative is sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, sodium salicylate or a mixture thereof. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight of the hair care composition.

It is further preferred that the hair care composition of the invention comprises a cosmetic ingredient. Preferably the cosmetic ingredient is selected from the group consisting of a silicone, an antibacterial agent other than antidandruff agents, a foam booster, a perfume, encapsulates (for example encapsulated fragrance) a dye, a colouring agent, a pigment, a preservative, a thickener, a protein, a phosphate ester, a buffering agent, a pH adjusting agent, a pearlescer (for example; mica, titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide coated mica, ethylene glycol distearate (INCI glycol distearate)) and/or opacifier, a viscosity modifier, an emollient, a sunscreen, an emulsifier, a sensate active (for example menthol and menthol derivatives), vitamins, mineral oils, essential oils, lipids, natural actives, glycerin, natural hair nutrients such as botanical extracts, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives and amino acids, microcrystalline cellulose and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention includes from 0.01 to 20 wt% of the at least one cosmetic ingredient, more preferably from 0.05 to 10 wt%, still more preferably from 0.075 to 7.5 wt% and most preferably, from 0.1 to 5 wt% of the at least one cosmetic ingredient, by weight of the total composition.

Method and Use

The present invention provides for a cosmetic composition of the first aspect for use in promoting health of skin, scalp and/or hair, preferably health of scalp and/or hair. Promoting the health of skin, scalp and/or hair hereby preferably means delivering sebum control benefit. Alternatively, promoting health of scalp and/or hair hereby preferably means preventing or reducing hair shedding.

The present invention also provides for a non-therapeutic method of promoting health of skin, scalp and/or hair, preferably scalp and/or hair comprising the step of applying the composition of the first aspect onto topical surfaces of an individual followed by rinsing the surfaces with water. The topical surface is skin, scalp and/or scalp, preferably scalp and/or hair. Preferably it is for cosmetic purpose. Promoting the health of skin, scalp and/or hair hereby preferably means delivering sebum control benefit. Alternatively, promoting health of scalp and/or hair hereby preferably means preventing or reducing hair shedding.

Mode of Use

The compositions of the invention are primarily intended for topical application to scalp and/or at least a portion of the hair or skin of an individual, in rinse-off compositions.

When the composition is a shampoo, it is topically applied to the hair and then massaged into the hair and scalp. Then it is rinsed with water prior to drying the hair.

The invention will be further illustrated by the following, non-limiting Examples, in which all percentages quoted are by weight based on total weight unless otherwise stated.

The examples are intended to illustrate the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples perse. Examples

Example 1

This example demonstrated the surfactant system within the scope of the present invention can improve the deposition of capryloyl glycine. The compositions according to the formulations detailed in Table 1 are prepared. All ingredients are expressed by weight percent of the total formulation, and as level of active ingredient.

TABLE 1 a. Acryl amidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copolymer, N-DurHance™ SP-100

Polymer from Ashland.

Method

A typical deposition evaluating protocol is used as follows.

About 0.2 grams of the tested sample was applied on artificial skin (VITRO-SKIN from IMS testing group, 10.75 cm² per plate). Then the sample was diluted with 1.8 mL water and rubbed with a plastic rod for 30 seconds. The artificial skin surface was then rinsed twice with water, first time with 4 mL water for 30 seconds and then again with 4 mL water for 30 seconds. The deposited capryloyl glycine on the artificial skin was measured using HPLC method. Results:

The average deposition is summarized in Table 2. TABLE 2

The observations tabulated in Tables 2 clearly indicate that Samples 1 to 5 comprising combination of anionic surfactant and co-surfactant with the weight ratio within the scope of the present invention showed improved deposition of capryloyl glycine as compared to Samples A to C which are outside the scope of the present invention.

Example 2

This example demonstrated the surfactant system within the scope of the present invention can improve the deposition of capryloyl glycine. The compositions according to the formulations detailed in Table 3 are prepared. All ingredients are expressed by weight percent of the total formulation, and as level of active ingredient.

TABLE 3 a. Acryl amidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copolymer, N-DurHance™ SP-100 Polymer from Ashland.

Method Same deposition evaluating protocol is use as disclosed in Example 1.

Results:

The average deposition is summarized in Table 4.

TABLE 4

The observations tabulated in Tables 4 clearly indicate that Samples 6 to 10 comprising combination of anionic surfactant and co-surfactant with the weight ratio within the scope of the present invention showed improved deposition of capryloyl glycine as compared to Samples D to E which are outside the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: i) an anionic surfactant; ii) a co-surfactant which is amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant; and iii) capryloyl glycine; wherein the weight ratio of said anionic surfactant to the amount of said co-surfactant surfactant is from 3:1 to 8:1.

2. A composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein the weight ratio of anionic surfactant to the amount of said co-surfactant is from 4:1 to 7:1.

3. A composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2 wherein said anionic surfactant is ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant having a formula RO(CH₂CH₂O)_nSO3M, wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl group having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; M is a solubilising cation comprising sodium, potassium, ammonium, substituted ammonium or mixtures thereof; n is the degree of ethoxylation of from 0.5 to 3;

4. A composition as claimed in claim 3 wherein said R is an alkyl or alkenyl group having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

5. A composition as claimed in claim 3 or 4 wherein ethyoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant is sodium lauryl ether sulfate.

6. A composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2 wherein said anionic surfactant comprises a sulfate free surfactant, preferably is alpha olefin sulfonate.

7. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 6 wherein said co-surfactant is selected from a group consisting of lauryl amine oxide, coco betaine, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocam idopropyl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, coco aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine, lauryl amphoacetate, preferably selected from a group consisting of cocamidopropyl betaine, and lauryl hydroxy sultaine.

8. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 7 wherein the composition comprises a cationic polymer.

9. A composition as claimed in claim 8 wherein said cationic polymer has a molecular weight of 50,000 to 5,000,000 g/mol and a charge density of from 0.25 to 7.0 meq/g.

10. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 9 wherein the composition comprises 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 5%, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% of capryloyl glycine by weight of the composition.

11. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 10 wherein the composition comprises 1 to 30%, preferably from 5 to 20%, more preferably from 8 to 16% of said anionic surfactant by weight of the composition.

12. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 11 wherein the composition comprises 0.2 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 8%, more preferably 1 to 5% of said co-surfactant by weight of the composition.

13. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 9 wherein the composition is a hair care composition, preferably a shampoo composition.

14. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 13 for use in promoting health of skin, scalp and/or hair wherein promoting health of skin, scalp and/or hair means delivering sebum control benefit, and preventing or reducing hair shedding.

15. A non-therapeutic method of promoting health of skin, scalp and/or hair comprising the step of applying the composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 13 onto skin, scalp and/or hair surfaces of an individual followed by rinsing the surfaces with water wherein promoting health of skin, scalp and/or hair means delivering sebum control benefit, and preventing or reducing hair shedding.