[go: up one dir, main page]

WO2025249585A1 - Procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques et/ou du cuir chevelu avec une composition aqueuse comprenant un composé c-glycoside - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques et/ou du cuir chevelu avec une composition aqueuse comprenant un composé c-glycoside

Info

Publication number
WO2025249585A1
WO2025249585A1 PCT/JP2025/080069 JP2025080069W WO2025249585A1 WO 2025249585 A1 WO2025249585 A1 WO 2025249585A1 JP 2025080069 W JP2025080069 W JP 2025080069W WO 2025249585 A1 WO2025249585 A1 WO 2025249585A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
composition
water
amount ranging
relative
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/JP2025/080069
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Yi-Yun Tsao
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from JP2024085537A external-priority patent/JP2025178748A/ja
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2025249585A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025249585A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, with an aqueous composition comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C- glycoside compounds.
  • the present invention relates to the composition for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds.
  • cosmetic compositions which make it possible to obtain care effects are increasingly sought after by users.
  • active agents are generally included in the compositions.
  • cosmetic compositions including cosmetic active agents for keratin fibers and/or scalp, oils and water-soluble alcohol are widely used as a medium in cosmetic formulations.
  • WO 2023/112655 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol; (c) at least one oil; and (d) at least one ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants, which is different from (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent.
  • WO 2023/112544 discloses a composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one oil, (d) at least one nonionic guar gum, and (e) water in an amount of 35% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions comprising at least one C-glycoside compound as a hydrophilic active agent, which can impart keratin fibers and/or scalp with an improved sensation of clean and light feelings, and which also exhibits an improved application sensation.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a process for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, with an aqueous composition comprising at least one C-glycoside compound as a hydrophilic active agent, which can impart keratin fibers and/or scalp with an improved sensation of clean and light feelings, and which also exhibits an improved application sensation.
  • a process for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp comprising a step of applying to the keratin fibers and/or scalp a composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds;
  • the (a) C-glycoside compound may be selected from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C- alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; 1 -(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 1 - (C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;
  • the (a) hydrophilic active agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 12.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) water-soluble alcohol may be selected from monoalcohol(s) and polyol(s), preferably, the water-soluble alcohol is selected from monoalcohol(s), diol(s) and polyol(s) having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol.
  • the (b) water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one monoalcohol, and the monoalcohol(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one polyol, and the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) water-soluble alcohol may be selected from a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 25%o by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 10% to 17% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to
  • the amount of the (c) water may range from 15% to 85% by weight, preferably from 20% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 65% by weight, even more preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, and preferentially from 35% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may further comprise at least one oil.
  • the oil may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may further comprise at least one additional hydrophilic active agent.
  • the additional hydrophilic active agent may be selected from arginine, hydroxyethyl urea, niacinamide, biotin, caffeine, and combinations thereof.
  • composition may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants.
  • the process is for caring for and/or conditioning the hair and/or scalp.
  • the present invention also relates to a composition for caring for and/or conditioning keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, comprising (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (c) water in an amount of more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a process for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, with an aqueous formulation comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds, a greater amount of water and a less amount of water-soluble alcohol as mediums can impart the keratin fibers and/or scalp with an improved sensation of clean and light feelings, and exhibits an improved application sensation, and thereby completed the present invention.
  • the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, comprising a step of applying to the keratin fibers and/or scalp a composition comprising:
  • the process according to the present invention is for treating keratin fibers and/or scalp.
  • Keratin fibers here means fibers containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include hair, eyelash, eyebrow, and the like.
  • the keratin fiber in the present invention indicates hair.
  • the process according to the present invention is for a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers and/or scalp, and more preferably hair and/or scalp.
  • the cosmetic process here can mean a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or conditioning keratin fibers and/or scalp.
  • the application step of the composition can be performed by any conventional means such as an applicator, e.g., hands, a spray, a brush, or a comb.
  • the application step can be a topical application step.
  • composition to be applied to the keratin fibers and/or scalp may take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), multiple (e.g., W/O/W, polyol/O/W, and O/W/O) emulsions, and the like.
  • emulsion O/W or W/O form
  • the composition according to the present invention be a solution, in particular a homogeneous solution.
  • the term “homogeneous” is intended to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.
  • composition to be applied to the keratin fibers and/or scalp includes (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (c) water in an amount of more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the process according to the present invention can exhibit better application property with less squeakiness on keratin fibers, such as hair. This property can produce uniform and even coatings on the keratin fibers, such as hair.
  • the process can impart the keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, with cleaner, lighter, watery, and fresh sensation.
  • composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds.
  • a hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds.
  • Two or more C-glycoside compounds may be used in combination as the (a) hydrophilic active agent.
  • a single type of C-glycoside compound or a combination of different types of C-glycoside compounds may be used as the (a) hydrophilic active agent.
  • Hydrophilic active agent here is intended to mean an active agent for keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, which is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1 % by weight, for example, at least 5% by weight or at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa).
  • the C-glycoside compound may be represented by the following general formula (I): S ⁇ X-R (I) in which:
  • R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 and especially C1-C2 alkyl radical, in particular methyl;
  • S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D- glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
  • X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)- and preferentially a - CH(OH)- group; and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.
  • C-glycoside compounds of formula (I) that are more particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may especially be made of the following compounds:
  • the C-glycoside compound is selected from C-beta-D- xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
  • the C-glycoside compound of formula (I) that is suitable for the present invention may advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, the INCI name of which is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROP YR ANTRIOL, sold especially under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by NOVEAL.
  • the salts of the C-glycosides of formula (I) that are suitable for the present invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.
  • examples that may be mentioned include the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid.
  • Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may especially be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
  • the C-glycosides (I) are also known from the document WO 02/051828.
  • the (a) hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably from 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (a) hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 17.5% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 12.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (a) hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 12.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol.
  • Two or more water-soluble alcohols may be used in combination.
  • a single type of water-soluble alcohol or a combination of different types of water-soluble alcohols may be used.
  • water-soluble alcohol here means an alcohol which can dissolve in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more in 100 mL of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa).
  • the water-soluble alcohol of the present invention may be selected from monoalcohol and polyol.
  • the water-soluble alcohol of the present invention is selected from monoalcohol(s), diol(s) and polyol(s) having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol.
  • the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol and at least one polyol in combination.
  • the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol in combination.
  • the monoalcohol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated mono-alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.
  • the monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • aliphatic monoalcohol here means any linear or branched, saturated alkane compound bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.
  • the aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the present invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the mono alcohol can be selected from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • linear aliphatic monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyol that is suitable for use in the present invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
  • a polyol that may be used in the composition is a compound of linear or branched, preferably linear alkyl type bearing at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
  • the polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating the cosmetic compositions are those especially having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • polyols that may be used are chosen from linear or branched, preferably linear polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; and mention may be made especially of:
  • - diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol and butylene glycol;
  • triols such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof.
  • the diol(s) is (are) selected from pentylene glycol, propane-1, 3-diol and propylene glycol.
  • the polyol comprises at least one diol.
  • the polyol comprises at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more -OH functions, in particular triol, in combination.
  • the composition comprises the water-soluble alcohol(s), which may include the at least one monoalcohol and/or the at least one polyol, in an amount of less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, more preferably 15% by weight or more, and even more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises the monoalcohol(s) in an amount of 35% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, and even more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises the monoalcohol(s) in an amount of 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and even more preferably 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the monoalcohol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises the polyol(s) in an amount of 30% by weight or less, more preferably 25% by weight or less, and even more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises the polyol(s) in an amount of 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and even more preferably 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises both of the monoalcohol(s) and the polyol(s), preferably a combination of the monoalcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight and the polyol(s) in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 10% to 30% by weight and the polyol(s) in an amount ranging from 10% to 25% by weight, and more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by weight and the polyol(s) in an amount ranging from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol is a diol
  • the diol may be present in an amount of 3% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, and/or may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 17% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol is a diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% to 17% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol is a polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount of 0.3% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more; and/or may be 7% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol is a polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises a combination of at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol.
  • the composition comprises the monoalcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, the diol(s) in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, and the polyol(s) having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol(s), in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 7% by weight; more preferably the monoalcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, the diol(s) in an amount ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, and the triol(s) in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight; and even more preferably the monoalcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by weight, the diol(s) in an amount ranging from 10% to 17% by weight, and the triol(s) in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises (c) water.
  • the composition comprises (c) water in an amount of more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water in the composition may be 15% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, more preferably 25% by weight or more, even more preferably 30% by weight or more, and preferentially 35% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water in the composition may be 85% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less, more preferably 65% by weight or less, even more preferably 60% by weight or less, and preferentially 55% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the water in the composition may range from 15% to 85% by weight, preferably from 20% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 65% by weight, even more preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, and preferentially from 35% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used in the process according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent in addition to the (a) C-glycoside compound. This means that the composition may comprise at least one additional hydrophilic active agent different from the (a) C-glycoside compound.
  • hydrophilic active agent mention may be made, for example, of moisturizers, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-ageing agents, mattifying agents, cicatrizing agents, blood-circulation promoting ingredient, antibacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional hydrophilic active agent is preferably solid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa).
  • the additional hydrophilic active agent is preferably selected from amino acids or derivatives thereof, Vitamin B3 or derivatives thereof, urea or derivatives thereof, biotin compounds, caffeine, and mixtures thereof.
  • amino acid or its derivative mention can be made of betain(trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, P-alanine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, histidine, threonine, tyrosine, taurine, y-aminobutyric acid, y-amino-
  • the amino acid as the additional hydrophilic active agent is arginine.
  • Vitamin B3 also called vitamin PP, is a compound of the following formula (I): in which R may be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinyl alcohol), -CO-NH-CH2-COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid).
  • R may be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinyl alcohol), -CO-NH-CH2-COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid).
  • Niacinamide is preferable.
  • Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH2, products from reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and of carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolid acid or palmitic acid.
  • nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate
  • amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH2 products from reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids
  • esters of nicotinyl alcohol and of carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolid acid or palmitic acid.
  • vitamin B3 derivatives that may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as the salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.
  • carboxylic acids such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.
  • urea derivative means any compound other than urea (CO NH2)2) itself, comprising in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply bonded to two nitrogen atoms, i.e. a unit:
  • the urea derivatives are chosen from the compounds of formula (I), salts thereof, or hydrates thereof: in which:
  • Rl - Rl, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently:
  • Rl and R3 represent a hydrogen atom
  • R2 may represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical
  • R4 may represent an acetyl radical
  • R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a piperidine, 3- methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or amaleimide ring;
  • Rl and R2 and also R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, an imidazole ring.
  • the urea or urea derivatives as the additional hydrophilic active agent are chosen from urea and hydroxyethyl urea, and more preferably hydroxyethyl urea.
  • the additional hydrophilic active agent is selected from arginine, hydroxyethyl urea, niacinamide, biotin, caffeine, and combinations thereof.
  • the additional hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, even more preferably 2% by weight or more, and in particular 3% by weight or more by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the additional hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 12% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the additional hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight or more, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used in the process according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Two or more types of oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
  • oil means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid, a paste (nonsolid), or solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the oil used in the present invention is preferably in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil or “hydrocarbon oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.
  • silicon oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • polar oil is intended to mean an oil of which the solubility parameter 5 a at 25°C is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • polar oil is intended to mean an oil of which the chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • the parameters 5 P , 5h, 8D and 5 a are expressed as (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • the polar oils used according to the present invention have a 5 a of between 4 and 9.1, preferably a 5 a of between 6 and 9.1, and even better still between 7.3 and 9.1.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.
  • plant oils examples include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
  • the ester oils of the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols may be represented by the formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably a linear fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferable 2 to 8 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 > 10.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate
  • isostearyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • ester oil is selected from fatty acid ester oils.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols may also be used.
  • esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • ester oils one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance, methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate,
  • dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:
  • Rj-O-R 2 wherein each of R 1 and R 2 independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably a Ce-Cis alkyl group, and more preferably a Cs-Cu alkyl group. It may be preferable that R 1 and R 2 are the same.
  • linear alkyl group mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and an tetracosyl group.
  • branched alkyl group mention may be made of a 1 -methylpropyl group, 2-methylpropyl group, at-butyl group, a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3 -methylhexyl group, a 5 -methylhexyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexylgroup, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2 -butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2 -hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, an 2-
  • cyclic alkyl group mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3 -methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
  • capryl caprylyl glycerides glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like
  • cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodeca
  • the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of the formula:
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500000; the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s; and the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
  • the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia for instance the oil 70 047 V 500000
  • the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
  • the phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula: in which
  • Ci- C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals
  • m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.
  • oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia examples include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.
  • the organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
  • the hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Ci6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane; and mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9- 12 Alkane, C 10- 13 Alkane, C 13 - 14 Alkane, C 13 - 15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, Cl 8-21 Alkane, C8-9 Alkane/ Cycloalkane, C9-10 Alkane/ Cycloalkane,
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated linear radical containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated branched radical containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, pahnitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.
  • saturated fatty alcohol here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
  • saturated fatty alcohols mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
  • the oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g/mol, chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C12-C30) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • C1-C12 ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains
  • silicone oils e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane
  • hydrocarbon oils
  • the oil be chosen from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and a combination thereof. It is further preferred that the oil comprise both ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols represented by the formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear fatty acid comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and the fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH, wherein R is chosen from saturated branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R1COOR2 the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols represented by the formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear fatty acid comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from
  • the oil be selected from ester oils and fatty alcohols.
  • the oil is selected from ester oils of monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, such as ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2- ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and combinations thereof, and fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and combinations thereof, and
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 12% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used in the process according to the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant.
  • Two or more types of surfactants may be used in combination.
  • a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.
  • the surfactant may be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the surfactant is chosen from nonionic surfactants.
  • the composition may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • nonionic surfactants usable in the compositions of the invention may include polyethoxylated fatty alcohols or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (Laureth-9 to Laureth-50 as the INCI names), in particular Laureth-9; esters of polyols and of a fatty acid possessing a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glycerol and of a C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate), for example PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate; esters of sugar and of a
  • alkylpoly glycosides as nonionic surfactants, represented by the following general formula (1):
  • R-O-(G) X (1) in which R represents a branched and/or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4, and G in particular denotes glucose, fructose or galactose.
  • This alkyl polyglucoside can be used as a mixture with a coemulsifier, more especially with a fatty alcohol and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as that of the alkyl polyglucoside, that is to say comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and having a branched and/or unsaturated chain, for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside and oleyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is oleyl glucoside.
  • Use may be made, for example, of the mixture of isostearyl glucoside and isostearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by Seppi c, and also the mixture of octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside sold under the name Fludanov 20X by Seppic.
  • the amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may range from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used in the process according to the present invention may further comprise one or more adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular water-soluble organic solvents in addition to the (b) ingredient; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, for example, cationic polysaccharides; gelling agents; thickeners; penetrating agents; pH adjusters; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers; emollients; lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; suspending agents; sequestering agents; buffers; fragrances; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and/or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; copreservatives; opacifying agents; essential oils; and mixtures thereof.
  • adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from a physiologically acceptable medium
  • the adjuvants may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used in the process according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by a method comprising the following steps:
  • soluble ingredients such as deionized water, hydrophilic active agent(s), water-soluble alcohols, and optional water-soluble ingredients, such as surfactants if any, are added into a beaker at room temperature;
  • step (ii) the mixture from step (i) is stirred until all ingredients are fully dissolved;
  • the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, comprising a step of applying to the keratin fibers and/or scalp a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • At least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from at least one monoalcohol, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, comprising a step of applying to the keratin fibers and/or scalp a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • At least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in combination, preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 7% by weight, more preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by
  • the process according to the present invention may comprise an optional step of cleaning the keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp prior to the application of the composition.
  • the cleaning step may be performed by, for example, shampooing the keratin fibers, followed by rinsing off the keratin fibers.
  • the cleansing step is preferably carried out once before the process of the present invention is carried out.
  • the keratin fibers and/or scalp may be dried.
  • the methods for drying the keratin fibers and/or scalp are not particularly limited, and may include drying with a towel and blowing-drying with a hair dryer.
  • the process according to the present invention includes the step of cleaning the keratin fibers and/or scalp prior to the application of the composition
  • the keratin fibers and/or scalp may be wet or dried, preferably wet, just before the step of applying the composition to the keratin fibers and/or scalp is conducted.
  • the process according to the present invention may or may not comprise a step of rinsing the applied composition off from the keratin fibers and/or scalp after the application step. Since the composition used in the process according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on (or leave-in) type cosmetic composition, in order to enhance the cosmetic effect, the process preferably does not comprise a rinsing step of the applied composition from the keratin fibers and/or scalp just after the application step.
  • the present invention may comprise an additional post step of drying the keratin fibers and/or scalp.
  • the methods for drying the keratin fibers and/or scalp are not particularly limited, and may include drying with a towel and blowing-drying with a hair dryer.
  • the keratin fibers and/or scalp may be left as they are for a certain amount of time; typically from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 15 minutes, if necessary, in order to let the composition penetrate into the keratin fibers and/or scalp.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or scalp, comprising:
  • composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application, especially to keratin fibers, preferably hair, and/or scalp.
  • composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on (or leave-in) type cosmetic composition.
  • leave-on means a composition that is not intended to be washed/rinsed out or removed immediately after application.
  • a leave- on composition is different from a rinse-off type composition, which is intended to be rinsed off after being used on keratin fibers and/or scalp.
  • the composition is for caring for and/or conditioning keratin fibers, preferably hair, and/or scalp.
  • the composition according to the present invention may take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), multiple (e.g., W/O/W, polyol/O/W, and O/W/O) emulsions, and the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a solution, in particular a homogeneous solution.
  • the term “homogeneous” is intended to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.
  • compositions according to the present invention are the same as those explained in the process according to the present invention above.
  • composition according to the present invention can include other optional ingredients those explained in the process according to the present invention above.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared as explained in the process according to the present invention above.
  • Three hair swatches (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the hair swatches was washed with Plain Shampoo shown in Table 1. After shampooing, the hair swatch was rinsed with water and then towel-dried. 0.20 g of each of the compositions shown in Table 2 were applied onto each hair swatch and left for 5 minutes, followed by blow-drying.
  • compositions used in the processes according to Examples 1 and 2 (Ex. 1 and 2) and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 (Comp. Ex. 1 and 2) was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the following Table 2.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol product of MEXORYL SCN® was obtained from NOVEAL.
  • the process according to the present invention is very preferable for caring for and/or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular the hair, and/or the scalp.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte à une composition comprenant : (a) au moins un agent actif hydrophile choisi parmi les composés C-glycosides ; (b) au moins un alcool hydrosoluble en une quantité inférieure à 40 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition ; et (c) de l'eau en une quantité supérieure à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Elle concerne également un procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques, telles que les cheveux et/ou le cuir chevelu, comprenant une étape d'application de ladite composition sur les fibres kératiniques et/ou sur le cuir chevelu. La présente invention peut présenter une meilleure propriété d'application avec moins de sensations de crissement et peut conférer une sensation améliorée aux fibres kératiniques et/ou au cuir chevelu.
PCT/JP2025/080069 2024-05-27 2025-05-22 Procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques et/ou du cuir chevelu avec une composition aqueuse comprenant un composé c-glycoside Pending WO2025249585A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2024-085537 2024-05-27
JP2024085537A JP2025178748A (ja) 2024-05-27 2024-05-27 Ｃ－グリコシド化合物を含む水性組成物を用いた、ケラチン繊維及び／又は頭皮を処置するための方法
FRFR2407483 2024-07-09
FR2407483 2024-07-09

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2025249585A1 true WO2025249585A1 (fr) 2025-12-04

Family

ID=96091472

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/JP2025/080069 Pending WO2025249585A1 (fr) 2024-05-27 2025-05-22 Procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques et/ou du cuir chevelu avec une composition aqueuse comprenant un composé c-glycoside

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2025249585A1 (fr)

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002051828A2 (fr) 2000-12-22 2002-07-04 L'oreal Nouveau derives c-glycosides et utilisation
FR2882516A1 (fr) * 2005-02-25 2006-09-01 Oreal Utilisation capillaire des derives c-glycosides
US20170035673A1 (en) * 2013-07-04 2017-02-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising a pasty fatty substance and a non-ionic derivative of hydrophobic-modified cellulose
WO2023112544A1 (fr) 2021-12-17 2023-06-22 L'oreal Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et une gomme de guar non ionique
WO2023112655A1 (fr) 2021-12-17 2023-06-22 L'oreal Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et un ingrédient dérivé de plantes nymphaeacées
FR3131692A1 (fr) * 2022-01-13 2023-07-14 L'oreal Composition comprenant une huile, un alcool soluble dans l’eau et une gomme de guar non ionique
FR3143337A1 (fr) * 2022-12-19 2024-06-21 L'oreal Dipi Composition cosmétique stable contenant un monoglycéride, un dérivé d’acide citrique et un dérivé de C-glycoside

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002051828A2 (fr) 2000-12-22 2002-07-04 L'oreal Nouveau derives c-glycosides et utilisation
FR2882516A1 (fr) * 2005-02-25 2006-09-01 Oreal Utilisation capillaire des derives c-glycosides
US20170035673A1 (en) * 2013-07-04 2017-02-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising a pasty fatty substance and a non-ionic derivative of hydrophobic-modified cellulose
WO2023112544A1 (fr) 2021-12-17 2023-06-22 L'oreal Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et une gomme de guar non ionique
WO2023112655A1 (fr) 2021-12-17 2023-06-22 L'oreal Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et un ingrédient dérivé de plantes nymphaeacées
FR3131692A1 (fr) * 2022-01-13 2023-07-14 L'oreal Composition comprenant une huile, un alcool soluble dans l’eau et une gomme de guar non ionique
FR3143337A1 (fr) * 2022-12-19 2024-06-21 L'oreal Dipi Composition cosmétique stable contenant un monoglycéride, un dérivé d’acide citrique et un dérivé de C-glycoside

Non-Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
C.M. HANSEN: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. PAINT TECHNOL., vol. 39, 1967, pages 105
COSMETICS AND TOILETRIES, vol. 91, pages 27 - 32
PODDEBNIAK PATRYCJA ET AL: "A Survey of Preservatives Used in Cosmetic Products", APPLIED SCIENCES, vol. 14, no. 4, 16 February 2024 (2024-02-16), Basel, pages 1 - 15, XP093306752, ISSN: 2076-3417, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/14/4/1581/pdf> [retrieved on 20250820], DOI: 10.3390/app14041581 *
TODDBYERS, VOLATILE SILICONE FLUIDS FOR COSMETICS
WALTER NOLL: "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones", 1968, ACADEMIC PRESS

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US11166886B2 (en) Cosmetic composition
EP2099418B1 (fr) Composition de soin pour la peau
US20190365628A1 (en) Composition in the form of nano- or micro- emulsion
EP2777690B1 (fr) Produit cosmétique écran solaire émulsifié de type huile-dans-eau
FR2948872A1 (fr) Composition cosmetique comprenant un derive oxyalkylene
US10973749B2 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising vitamin C and ceramides
MX2013009524A (es) Composicion acondicionadora de la piel, no solida, que se deja puesta, la cual tiene una fase continua y contiene acido 12-hidroxiestearico.
EP1938784B1 (fr) Agent de prétraitement destiné à la protection du cuir chevelu
US20240423892A1 (en) Transparent composition comprising polyhydroxy acid
EP1913929A2 (fr) Emulsions eau/huile douces pour la peau
JP7372121B2 (ja) 油性化粧料
HUP0200829A2 (en) Agents and method for treating keratinous fibres
EP4203907B1 (fr) Composition stable comprenant de la polydatine
WO2023112544A1 (fr) Composition comprenant de l&#39;huile, un alcool soluble dans l&#39;eau et une gomme de guar non ionique
WO2023112655A1 (fr) Composition comprenant de l&#39;huile, un alcool soluble dans l&#39;eau et un ingrédient dérivé de plantes nymphaeacées
WO2025249585A1 (fr) Procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques et/ou du cuir chevelu avec une composition aqueuse comprenant un composé c-glycoside
TW202203894A (zh) 水中油型乳化化妝料
JP2022138175A (ja) 皮膚外用組成物
KR20220004109A (ko) 아데노신인산을 함유하는 o/w형 저점도 유화 조성물
JP2023090305A (ja) 油、水溶性アルコール及びスイレン科植物に由来する成分を含む組成物
JP2025178748A (ja) Ｃ－グリコシド化合物を含む水性組成物を用いた、ケラチン繊維及び／又は頭皮を処置するための方法
FR3131692A1 (fr) Composition comprenant une huile, un alcool soluble dans l’eau et une gomme de guar non ionique
US20240238182A1 (en) Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic
WO2023112543A1 (fr) Composition stable comprenant de l&#39;huile et de l&#39;alcool soluble dans l&#39;eau
JP2023090303A (ja) 油、水溶性アルコール及び非イオン性グアーガムを含む組成物