WO2025118179A1

WO2025118179A1 - Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2025118179A1
Application number: PCT/CN2023/136742
Authority: WO
Inventors: Feixue TENG; Xiaomin WENG; Xiaoming Wu; Qingsheng Tao
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-12-06
Filing date: 2023-12-06
Publication date: 2025-06-12
Anticipated expiration: 2026-06-06
Also published as: FR3156317A3

Abstract

Provided herein is a silicone-free composition, preferably caring for and/or making up keratin material, comprising: (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acids, (ii) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid esters, alkylglucosides, and mixtures thereof; (iii) at least one polymer A selected from acrylic polymers; (iv) at least one oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; and (v) at least one C-glycoside. A non-therapeutic method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials is also provided.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR AND/OR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a silicone-free composition. In addition, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

BACKGROUND ART

The development of cosmetic products dedicated to caring for and/or making up the skin and/or lips, is permanent.

Different cosmetic products will comprise different cosmetic active ingredients due to the desired use.

Some products for caring for and/or making up keratin materials have a lamellar structure.

When a product with a lamellar structure is applied, it is very likely to generate white trace or soaping which is perceived as a symbol of poor product absorption. Traditionally, silicone is effective to reduce soaping. However, silicone-free products are more desired for some consumers.

Therefore, it is desired to have silicone-free products for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, which have good anti-soaping effect.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is an object of the present invention to develop silicone-free products for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, which have good anti-soaping effect.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a non-therapeutic method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials with above compositions.

Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a silicone-free composition, preferably caring for and/or making up keratin material, comprising:

(i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

(ii) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid esters, alkylglucosides, and mixtures thereof;

(iii) at least one polymer A selected from acrylic polymers;

(iv) at least one oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; and

(v) at least one C-glycoside.

The inventors found that the composition of the present invention has good anti-soaping effect.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a lamellar structure.

In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, wherein:

Fig. 1 shows the standards for scoring the intensity of the soaping films obtained from compositions to be tested.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between ... and ... " and "from ... to ... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

The expression "and/or" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or both" of indicated elements.

Throughout the instant application, the term "comprising" is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of" ) .

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about" . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

As used herein, the term "keratin materials" refer to the skin and the lips. By "skin" , we intend to mean all the body skin, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratin material is the facial skin.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

The silicone-free composition according to the present invention comprises:

(i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

(iii) at least one polymer A selected from acrylic polymers;

(v) at least one C-glycoside.

Saturated C14-C22 fatty acids

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid.

As examples of saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, mention can be made of myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, and combinations thereof.

Preferably, the fatty acid is selected from saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

More preferably, the fatty acid is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

Even more preferably, the fatty acid is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and combinations thereof.

Advantageously, the saturated C14-C22 fatty acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 7 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactants

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid esters, alkylglucosides, and mixtures thereof.

As used herein, glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester means an ester of glycerol and a C14-C22 fatty acid., C14-C22 fatty acid can be an unsaturated or saturated, linear or branched acid, for example, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and/or myristic acid.

As examples of glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, mention can be made of glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl arachidate, glyceryl behenate, and mixtures thereof.

As used herein, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester is an ester of polyethylene glycol and a C14-C22 fatty acid.

Preferably, the polyethylene glycol comprises from 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups, more preferably comprises from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups, most preferably comprises from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups.

For alkylglucosides, mention can be made of ethers of glucose and of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, i.e., C8-C24 alkylglucosides, for example decylglucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, laurylglucoside, coco-glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, esters of polyethylene glycol comprising from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, C8-C24 alkylglucosides, and combinations thereof.

More preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, esters of polyethylene glycol comprising from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups and a C14-C22 fatty acid selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, C12-C24 alkylglucosides, and combinations thereof.

Even more preferably, the surfactant is selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside, and a mixture thereof.

Most preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and arachidyl glucoside.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 5 wt. %, even more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It was found with the combination of at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acids and at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester, alkylglucosides, and mixtures thereof, the composition according to the present invention can have a lamellar structure, the structure can help build up the viscosity of the composition and increase the stability of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acids to the at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester, alkylglucosides, and mixtures thereof, is equal to or less than 6, preferably equal to or less than 4, more preferably from 0.2 to 4, even more preferably from 0.5 to 4, most preferably from 1 to 4.

Acrylic polymers

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polymer A selected from acrylic polymers.

Preferably, the polymer A is selected from acrylic homopolymers.

More preferably, the polymer A is selected from salts of polyacrylic acids.

Even more preferably, the polymer A is selected from metal salts of polyacrylic acids.

The salts of polyacrylic acids can be partially or totally neutralized.

More preferably, the polymer A is selected from sodium, potassium, lithium salts of polyacrylic acids, and mixtures thereof.

The most preferred salt of polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.

Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers in partially or totally neutralized form, and they are hydrophilic.

Sodium polyacrylate is for example marketed as COVACRYL MV60 by the company SENSIENT.

The inventors found that the presence of polymer A can enhance the stability of the composition.

Advantageously, polymer A selected from acrylic polymers is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 2 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oils

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .

The oils may be volatile oils or non-volatile oils.

The term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating in contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .

The term "alkane" is intended to mean any compound comprising a linear or branched, saturated, hydrocarbon-based chain constituted exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.

Preferably, the alkanes are linear or branched C₈-C₂₀ alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.

The C8-C50 fatty ester are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the C8-C50 fatty esters, at least one from the alcohol and the acid, from which the esters of the present invention are derived, is branched.

These esters may be, for example, adipates, sebacates, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the C8-C50 fatty esters are selected from diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, ethylhexyl olivate and mixture thereof; most preferably selected from diisopropyl sebacate, ethylhexyl olivate and mixture thereof.

The fatty alcohol is preferably selected from C8-C10 fatty alcohols, more preferably the fatty alcohol is octanol.

Preferably, the oil is selected from branched alkanes containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms; liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10; C8-C12 fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

More preferably the oil is selected from isododecane, isohexadecane, diisopropyl sebacate, ethylhexyl olivate and mixtures thereof; even more preferably is selected from isododecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof; most preferably is isododecane.

Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 4 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

C-glycosides

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.

Preferably, the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I) :

in which:

- R represents a saturated C₁ to C₁₀, preferably C₁ to C₄, alkyl radical which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR"₂, with R"₂ being a saturated C₁-C₄ alkyl radical,

- S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, preferably up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the said monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional group (s) , and

- X represents a radical selected from the -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH₂) -, -CH (NHCH₂CH₂CH₂OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -and -CH (CH₃) -groups and preferably a -CO-, -CH (OH) -or -CH (NH₂) -radical and more preferably a -CH (OH) -radical,

the S-CH₂-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be α or β,

and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as the hydrates, and their optical and geometrical isomers.

The C-glycoside of use for the implementation of the invention are preferably those for which R denotes a saturated linear C₁ to C₆, preferablyC₁ to C₄, more preferentially C₁ to C₂, alkyl radical and even more preferably a methyl radical.

Mention may be made, among the alkyl groups suitable for the implementation of the invention, of the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl groups.

According to one embodiment of the invention, use may be made of a C-glycoside corresponding to the formula (I) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of L and/or D series, the said mono-or polysaccharide exhibiting at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and/or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R otherwise retaining all of the definitions given above.

Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and preferablyD-xylose.

More preferably, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and preferably xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

More preferably, S can represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and preferably D-xylose.

Preferably, use is made of a C-glycoside of formula (I) for which:

- R denotes an unsubstituted linear C₁-C₄, preferablyC₁-C₂, alkyl radical, especially a methyl radical;

- S represents a monosaccharide as described above and selected preferably from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and more preferably D-xylose;

- X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH (OH) -or -CH (NH₂) -and preferably a -CH (OH) -group.

The acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional non-toxic salts of the said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the salts of inorganic acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which can comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. Mention may be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, neutralization of the acid group (s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) ₂, NH₄OH, Mg (OH) ₂ or Zn (OH) ₂, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine can comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and can thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; mention may be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2- (dimethylamino) propanol or 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1, 3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine.

The solvates which are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of the said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to the formula (I) can be used alone or as a mixture with other C-glycoside and in any proportion.

A C-glycoside which is suitable for the invention can be obtained by the synthetic method described in the document WO 02/051828.

Mention may be made, by way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycoside compounds which are suitable for the invention, of the following compounds:

- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-β-D-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-α-D-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-β-L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-α-L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,

- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside can be C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) provided in the form of a solution containing 70%by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.

Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 30 %, preferably from 3 wt. %to 20 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymers

Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises a polymer B selected from optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymers having a hydrophobic fatty chain with 8-40 carbon atoms.

As used herein, the term "optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymers" means the acrylic acid copolymers are optionally neutralized partially or totally with a base such as ammonia, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

Polymer B is different from polymer A mentioned previously.

Preferably, the polymer B is selected from optionally neutralized copolymers of:

at least one monomer of following formula (1) :

in which R₁ denotes H or CH₃ or C₂H₅, that is to say acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid monomers respectively, and

at least one monomer of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C₁₀-C₃₀) alkyl ester type which corresponds to the monomer of following formula (2) :

in which R₂ denotes H or CH₃ or C₂H₅ (that is to say, acrylate or methacrylate or ethacrylate units respectively) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH₃ (methacrylate units) and R₃ denotes a C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl radical.

The (C₁₀-C₃₀) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably selected from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polymer B is crosslinked.

Use will more preferably be made of copolymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:

(i) essentially acrylic acid,

(ii) an ester of formula (2) described above in which R₂ denotes H or CH₃ and R₃ denotes an alkyl radical having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms,

(iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide, and

(iv) optional a base selected from ammonia, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and a combination thereof.

Use will more preferably be made, among copolymers of this type, of those composed of 95 wt %to 60 wt %of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit) , 4 wt %to 40 wt %of C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 wt %to 6 wt %of crosslinking polymerizable monomer or else of those composed of 98 wt %to 96 wt %of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit) , 1 wt %to 4 wt %of C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 wt %to 0.6 wt %of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above, optionally the copolymers are neutralized partially or totally with a base such as ammonia, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

Preference is given to the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen^TM TR-1, Pemulen^TM TR-2, Carbopol1382 and Carbopol EDT 2020.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises an optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymer selected from sodium acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and a combination thereof.

Advantageously, the polymer B is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably 0.08 wt. %to 2 wt. %, more preferably 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophobic powders

Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises a hydrophobic powder with a hydrophobic part comprising a C14-C30 fatty chain.

Preferably, the hydrophobic powder is selected from mineral particles coated with a C14-C30 fatty alcohol.

More preferably, the hydrophobic powder is selected from mineral oxide particles coated a C16-C22 fatty alcohol.

According to an embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises silica coated with cetyl alcohol.

Advantageously, the hydrophobic powder is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging 0.05 wt. %to 3 wt. %, preferably 0.1 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, more preferably 0.15 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 95 wt. %, more preferably from 20 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The continuous aqueous phase comprises water.

Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 50 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient.

As examples of additional cosmetic active ingredients, mention can be made of niacinamide, panthenol, and mixtures thereof.

It is easy for the skilled person in the art to adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Additional adjuvants or additives

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance fragrances, preserving agents, bactericides, additional surfactants, waxes; additional thickeners, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.

The skilled person in the art can adjust the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention is "silicone-free" , which means that the amount of silicone in the composition is less than 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the amount of silicone in the composition is less than 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises no silicone. Where appropriate, the small amounts of silicone may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount but are not deliberately provided.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a silicone-free composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 3 wt. %to 7 wt. %of at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a combination thereof;

(ii) from 0.8 wt. %to 3 wt. %of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside, and a mixture thereof;

(iii) from 0.5 wt. %to 1 wt. %of sodium polyacrylate;

(iv) from 4 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one oil selected from branched alkanes containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms; and

(v) from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol.

Preparation and use

The composition of the present invention can be prepared with conventional means in the art.

The composition of the present invention can be used for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.

Preferably, the keratin material can be the skin, for example the facial skin.

EXAMPLES

The examples that follow are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

Main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Invention Examples 1-7 and comparative examples 1-2

Compositions of invention examples (IE) 1-7 and comparative examples (CE) 1-2 were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in %by weight of each ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 2

Composition of invention examples 1-7 represent compositions according to the present invention.

Compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2 do not comprise at least one oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Preparation process:

The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:

1. heating saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, nonionic surfactant, beeswax, oil (if presents) , dicaprylyl ether (if presents) to 80℃ to obtain mixture A;

2. heating water to 80℃;

3. adding mixture A into water at 80℃ with stirring;

4. adding polymer A (sodium polyacrylate) , and polymer B (if presents) at 80℃ with stirring;

5. adding C-glycoside at 80℃ with stirring;

6. adding hydrophobic powder (if presents) at 50℃ with stirring;

7. cooling down the composition obtained.

Evaluation of compositions

Anti-soaping property of each composition was evaluated by in-vitro protocol as follows:

1. applying 200 μL of the composition to be tested onto a bioskin with an area of 6.3 cm x 6.3 cm;

2. cycling with finger on the composition in 2 rounds/sfor 30 seconds;

3. observing the intensity of the soaping film obtained and scoring according to the standard as shown in Fig. 1, wherein 1: least soaping; 4: most soaping, the score of 3 is acceptable.

The scores of the soaping delivered by compositions of invention examples 1-7 and comparative examples 1-2 were summarized below.

Table 3

It can be seen that compositions of invention examples 1-7 are anti-soaping.

Claims

A silicone-free composition, preferably caring for and/or making up keratin material, comprising:

(i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

(ii) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid esters, alkylglucosides, and mixtures thereof;

(iii) at least one polymer A selected from acrylic polymers;

(iv) at least one oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; and

(v) at least one C-glycoside.
Composition according to claim 1, wherein the saturated C14-C22 fatty acid is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids, preferably, the fatty acid is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a combination thereof.
Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the saturated C14-C22 fatty acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 7 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, esters of polyethylene glycol comprising from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, C8-C24 alkylglucosides, and combinations thereof, preferably selected from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, esters of polyethylene glycol comprising from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, C12-C24 alkylglucosides, and combinations thereof, more preferably selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside, and a mixture thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 5 wt. %, even more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid to the at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester, alkylglucosides, and mixtures thereof, is equal to or less than 6, preferably equal to or less than 4, more preferably from 0.2 to 4, even more preferably from 0.5 to 4, most preferably from 1 to 4.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the polymer A is selected from acrylic homopolymers, preferably selected from salts of polyacrylic acids, more preferably selected from metal salts of polyacrylic acids, even more preferably selected from sodium, potassium, lithium salts of polyacrylic acids, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the polymer A is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 2 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the oil is selected from branched alkanes containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms; liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10; C8-C12 fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from isododecane, isohexadecane, diisopropyl sebacate, ethylhexyl olivate and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from isododecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, most preferably the oil is isododecane.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the oil is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 4 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I) :

in which:

- R represents a saturated C₁ to C₁₀, preferably C₁ to C₄, alkyl radical which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR"₂, with R"₂ being a saturated C₁-C₄ alkyl radical,

- S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, preferably up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the said monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional group (s) , and

- X represents a radical selected from the -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH₂) -, -CH (NHCH₂CH₂CH₂OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -and -CH (CH₃) -groups and preferably a -CO-, -CH (OH) -or -CH (NH₂) -radical and more preferably a -CH (OH) -radical,

the S-CH₂-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be α or β,

and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as the hydrates, and their optical and geometrical isomers;

preferably, the C-glycoside is selected from

- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,

- 1- (C-β-D-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-α-D-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-β-L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,

- 1- (C-α-L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,

- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

their isomers and their mixtures.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 11, wherein the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 30 %, preferably from 3 wt. %to 20 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 12, further comprising

a polymer B selected from optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymers having a hydrophobic fatty chain with 8-40 carbon atoms, preferably selected from sodium acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylic acids/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and a combination thereof, preferably in an amount ranging 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably 0.08 wt. %to 2 wt. %, more preferably 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition; and/or

a hydrophobic powder with a hydrophobic part comprising a C14-C30 fatty chain, preferably selected from mineral particles coated with a C14-C30 fatty alcohol, more preferably silica coated with cetyl alcohol; preferably in an amount ranging 0.05 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably 0.1 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, more preferably 0.15 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to claim 1 or 13, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 3 wt. %to 7 wt. %of at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a combination thereof;

(ii) from 0.8 wt. %to 3 wt. %of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside, and a mixture thereof;

(iii) from 0.5 wt. %to 1 wt. %of sodium polyacrylate;

(iv) from 4 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one oil selected from branched alkanes containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms; and

(v) from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol.
A non-therapeutic method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1 to 14 to the keratin materials.