CN115996697A - Cosmetic composition for improved penetration - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition for improved penetration Download PDFInfo
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- CN115996697A CN115996697A CN202180046591.4A CN202180046591A CN115996697A CN 115996697 A CN115996697 A CN 115996697A CN 202180046591 A CN202180046591 A CN 202180046591A CN 115996697 A CN115996697 A CN 115996697A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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Abstract
改善皮肤活性剂的渗透的化妆品组合物,其包括约0.1‑约10wt.%的C‑糖苷;约0.1‑约5wt.%的聚甘油‑3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯;约0.1‑约5wt.%的聚丙烯酸钠;和水,其中该化妆品组合物是水包油乳液,并且所有的重量百分比基于化妆品组合物的总重量计。还公开了用化妆品组合物处理受损皮肤的方法。A cosmetic composition for improving penetration of skin active agents comprising about 0.1-about 10 wt.% C-glycoside; about 0.1-about 5 wt.% polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; about 0.1-about 5 wt.% sodium polyacrylate; and water, wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Also disclosed is a method of treating damaged skin with a cosmetic composition.
Description
相关申请的交叉引用Cross References to Related Applications
本申请要求2020年6月30日提交的序列号为16/916,569的美国申请和2020年9月7日提交的法国专利申请第2009056号的权益,通过引用将这些申请以其整体并入本文。This application claims the benefit of US Application Serial No. 16/916,569, filed June 30, 2020, and French Patent Application No. 2009056, filed September 7, 2020, which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.
公开领域public domain
本公开涉及提供改善的渗透的化妆品组合物,且尤其涉及在不使用常用渗透增强剂的情况下提供改善的渗透的化妆品组合物。另外,本公开的方面涉及用化妆品组合物处理受损皮肤的方法。The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that provide improved penetration, and in particular, to cosmetic compositions that provide improved penetration without the use of conventional penetration enhancers. Additionally, aspects of the present disclosure relate to methods of treating damaged skin with cosmetic compositions.
公开背景public background
皮肤充当内部环境与外部环境之间的天然屏障,并因此在重要的生物功能(例如防御机械和化学损伤、微生物以及紫外线损害)方面发挥重要作用。然而,皮肤的健康和外观可由于环境因素、基因组成、营养和太阳暴露而劣化。The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal environment and the external environment, and thus plays an important role in important biological functions such as defense against mechanical and chemical damage, microorganisms, and UV damage. However, the health and appearance of the skin can be deteriorated due to environmental factors, genetic makeup, nutrition and sun exposure.
环境污染状况正快速恶化并且在全世界消费者的日常生活中正变得更加明显。污染对人皮肤的损害也正变得越来越明显。人皮肤还经受由诸如紫外(UV)辐射、环境污染、风、热量、红外辐射、低湿度、苛刻的表面活性剂、磨料等外部因素产生的各种各样的损伤。最近的研究建议,除了UV辐射之外,其它的环境因素(特别是空气污染)也造成日光斑的发展。这些因素最终导致看得见的皮肤损害迹象,包括皮肤上的小的棕色斑,在老年人中尤其如此。The environmental pollution situation is rapidly deteriorating and becoming more evident in the daily lives of consumers around the world. The damage of pollution to human skin is also becoming more and more obvious. Human skin is also subject to a wide variety of damage from external factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, environmental pollution, wind, heat, infrared radiation, low humidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, and the like. Recent research suggests that, in addition to UV radiation, other environmental factors (especially air pollution) contribute to the development of sun spots. These factors eventually lead to visible signs of skin damage, including small brown spots on the skin, especially in older adults.
典型的皮肤损害包括细纹、起皱纹、色素沉着过度、蜡黄、松垂、黑的下眼圈、肿胀眼、扩大的毛孔、看得见的死皮,即,片状剥落(flaking)、脱皮(scaling)、干燥和粗糙。消费者希望减缓受到皮肤损害并且减少衰老效应,在面部和眼睛周围尤其如此。容光焕发和清透的皮肤看上去年轻并且是良好的健康和活力的象征。因此,对于改善皮肤的健康和视觉外观的新且改善的配制品存在着持续需求。Typical skin lesions include fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, sallowness, sagging, dark under-eye circles, puffy eyes, enlarged pores, visible dead skin, ie, flaking, peeling ( scaling), dry and rough. Consumers want to slow down skin damage and reduce the effects of aging, especially on the face and around the eyes. Radiant and clear skin looks youthful and is a sign of good health and vitality. Accordingly, there is a continuing need for new and improved formulations that improve the health and visual appearance of the skin.
公开概述public overview
本公开涉及提供所需皮肤活性剂进入成人皮肤的改善的渗透的化妆品组合物。发明人发现,成分的某些量和组合使得化妆品组合物能够在不使用常用渗透增强剂的情况下提供所需皮肤活性剂的改善的渗透。The present disclosure is directed to cosmetic compositions that provide improved penetration of desired skin active agents into adult skin. The inventors have discovered that certain amounts and combinations of ingredients enable cosmetic compositions to provide improved penetration of desired skin active agents without the use of conventional penetration enhancers.
根据本公开的一个方面的化妆品组合物通常包括:Cosmetic compositions according to one aspect of the present disclosure generally include:
(a)约0.1-约10wt.%的C-糖苷;(a) about 0.1 to about 10 wt.% C-glycoside;
(b)约0.1-约5wt.%的聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯;(b) about 0.1 to about 5 wt.% polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate;
(c)约0.1-约5wt.%的聚丙烯酸钠;和(c) about 0.1 to about 5 wt.% sodium polyacrylate; and
(d)水,(d) water,
其中化妆品组合物是水包油乳液,且所有的重量百分比基于化妆品组合物的总重量计。Wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
可并入化妆品组合物中的合适的C-糖苷包括选自以下的那些:C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-正丙-2-酮、C-α-D-吡喃木糖苷-正丙-2-酮、C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、C-α-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、1-(C-β-D-吡喃岩藻糖苷)丙-2-酮、1-(C-α-D-吡喃岩藻糖苷)丙-2-酮、1-(C-β-L-吡喃岩藻糖苷)丙-2-酮、1-(C-α-L-吡喃岩藻糖苷)丙-2-酮、1-(C-β-D-吡喃岩藻糖苷)-2-羟基丙烷、1-(C-α-D-吡喃岩藻糖苷)-2-羟基丙烷、1-(C-β-L-吡喃岩藻糖苷)-2-羟基丙烷、1-(C-α-L-吡喃岩藻糖苷)-2-羟基丙烷、1-(C-β-D-吡喃葡萄糖基)-2-羟基丙烷、1-(C-α-D-吡喃葡萄糖基)-2-羟基丙烷、1-(C-β-D-吡喃半乳糖基)-2-羟基丙烷、1-(C-α-D-吡喃半乳糖基)-2-羟基丙烷、1-(C-β-D-呋喃岩藻糖基)丙-2-酮、1-(C-α-D-呋喃岩藻糖基)丙-2-酮、1-(C-β-L-呋喃岩藻糖基)丙-2-酮、1-(C-α-L-呋喃岩藻糖基)丙-2-酮、C-β-D-吡喃麦芽糖苷-正丙-2-酮、C-α-D-吡喃麦芽糖苷-正丙-2-酮、C-β-D-吡喃麦芽糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、C-α-D-吡喃麦芽糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、其异构体、其混合物、及其组合。在至少一些实施方案中,C-糖苷包括C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷和C-α-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷中的至少一种。在至少一种情况中,C-糖苷是C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷。Suitable C-glycosides that may be incorporated into cosmetic compositions include those selected from the group consisting of: C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n- Propan-2-one, C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-β-D-pyranoside Alcoside) propan-2-one, 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one , 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-α- D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C -β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-β-D-fucofuran Glycosyl)propan-2-one, 1-(C-α-D-funofuranosyl)propan-2-one, 1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one , 1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-α-D-maltopyranoside - n-propan-2-one, C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, isomers thereof, mixtures thereof, and combination. In at least some embodiments, the C-glycoside comprises at least one of C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane. In at least one instance, the C-glycoside is C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
化妆品组合物可进一步包括约1-约30wt.%的多元醇。合适的多元醇可包括选自以下的那些:乙二醇、丙二醇、丁二醇、己二醇、戊二醇、二甘醇、一缩二丙二醇、辛甘醇、1,3-丙二醇、甘油、一缩二甘油、聚乙二醇、及其混合物。The cosmetic composition may further include about 1 to about 30 wt.% of a polyol. Suitable polyols may include those selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol , diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
在一些情况中,化妆品组合物包括约0.1-约10wt.%的去油光剂。去油光剂可以是淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸铝。另外或者另选地,化妆品组合物可包括约0.5-约10wt.%的油。油可以是硅酮且/或可以选自椰子油、大豆油、低芥酸菜籽油、菜籽油、玉米油、棉籽油、橄榄油、棕榈油、花生油、红花油、芝麻油、葵花油、亚麻籽油、棕榈仁油、桐油、麻风树油、芥子油、亚麻荠油、菥蓂油、蓖麻油、小麦胚芽油、杏仁油、阿月浑子树油、罂粟油、松油、鳄梨油、榛子油、葡萄籽油、菜油、杜松油、桃仁油、咖啡豆油、霍霍巴油、及其混合物。In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes from about 0.1 to about 10 wt. % of a degreasing agent. The degreasing agent may be aluminum starch octenyl succinate. Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may include from about 0.5 to about 10 wt.% oil. The oil may be silicone and/or may be selected from coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, canola oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil , linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, galanga oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, almond oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, pine oil, crocodile Pear Oil, Hazelnut Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Canola Oil, Juniper Oil, Peach Kernel Oil, Coffee Bean Oil, Jojoba Oil, and mixtures thereof.
化妆品组合物可以包括约0.05-约5wt.%的不是聚丙烯酸钠的增稠剂。在一些情况中,不是聚丙烯酸钠的增稠剂选自聚丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸铵、丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、聚丙烯酸钠、丙烯酸酯共聚物、聚丙烯酰胺、卡波姆、丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸酯/山萮醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、及其混合物。The cosmetic composition may include from about 0.05 to about 5 wt. % of a thickener other than sodium polyacrylate. In some cases, the thickener other than sodium polyacrylate is selected from ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymer, polyacryloyldimethyltaurate Acrylamide, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
约0.05-约5wt.%的量的皮肤活性剂可包括在化妆品组合物中。皮肤活性剂的非限制性实例包括透明质酸、羊毛脂、烟酰胺、柠檬酸、苹果酸、乳酸、酒石酸、水杨酸、辛酰水杨酸、类视色素、视黄醛、视黄醇、腺苷、透明质酸钠、视黄酸、类胡萝卜素、泛醇、氨基酸、蛋白质、酶、辅酶、或其混合物。Skin active agents may be included in cosmetic compositions in amounts of about 0.05 to about 5 wt.%. Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include hyaluronic acid, lanolin, niacinamide, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, caprylyl salicylic acid, retinoids, retinal, retinol , adenosine, sodium hyaluronate, retinoic acid, carotenoids, panthenol, amino acids, proteins, enzymes, coenzymes, or mixtures thereof.
在一些情况中,化妆品组合物包括约0.1-约20wt.%的不是聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯的脂肪酯。不是聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯的脂肪酯可包括异壬酸异壬酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯或其混合物。In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes from about 0.1 to about 20 wt. % of a fatty ester other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate. Fatty esters other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate can include isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, or mixtures thereof.
公开详述public details
本公开涉及提供所需皮肤活性剂进入成人皮肤的改善的渗透的化妆品组合物。如上文所提及的,发明人发现,成分的某些量和组合使得化妆品组合物能够在不使用常用渗透增强剂的情况下提供所需皮肤活性剂的改善的渗透。The present disclosure is directed to cosmetic compositions that provide improved penetration of desired skin active agents into adult skin. As mentioned above, the inventors have discovered that certain amounts and combinations of ingredients enable cosmetic compositions to provide improved penetration of desired skin active agents without the use of conventional penetration enhancers.
根据本公开的一个方面的化妆品组合物通常包括:Cosmetic compositions according to one aspect of the present disclosure generally include:
(a)约0.1-约10wt.%的C-糖苷;(a) about 0.1 to about 10 wt.% C-glycoside;
(b)约0.1-约5wt.%的聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯;(b) about 0.1 to about 5 wt.% polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate;
(c)约0.1-约5wt.%的聚丙烯酸钠;和(c) about 0.1 to about 5 wt.% sodium polyacrylate; and
(d)水,(d) water,
其中化妆品组合物是水包油乳液,且所有的重量百分比基于化妆品组合物的总重量计。Wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
在一些情况中,化妆品组合物实现了皮肤活性剂进入成人皮肤的改善的渗透。例如,化妆品组合物可实现皮肤活性剂进入皮肤的表皮和真皮的渗透。在一些情况中,化妆品组合物可获得人皮肤的表皮和真皮中约2μg/cm2或更多、2.1μg/cm2或更多、2.2μg/cm2或更多、2.3μg/cm2或更多、2.4μg/cm2或更多、2.5μg/cm2或更多、2.6μg/cm2或更多、2.7μg/cm2或更多、2.8μg/cm2或更多、2.9μg/cm2或更多、3μg/cm2或更多的皮肤活性剂。在某些实施方案中,化妆品组合物在不使用渗透增强剂的情况下获得改善的皮肤活性剂的渗透。In some cases, the cosmetic composition achieves improved penetration of skin active agents into adult skin. For example, cosmetic compositions can achieve penetration of skin active agents into the epidermis and dermis of the skin. In some cases, the cosmetic composition achieves about 2 μg/cm 2 or more, 2.1 μg/cm 2 or more, 2.2 μg/cm 2 or more, 2.3 μg/cm 2 or more in the epidermis and dermis of human skin. More, 2.4 μg/ cm2 or more, 2.5 μg/ cm2 or more, 2.6 μg/ cm2 or more, 2.7 μg/ cm2 or more, 2.8 μg/ cm2 or more, 2.9 μg /cm 2 or more, 3 μg/cm 2 or more skin active agent. In certain embodiments, cosmetic compositions achieve improved penetration of skin active agents without the use of penetration enhancers.
一些治疗组合物或化妆品组合物通过使用增强皮肤渗透的载体或媒介物来实现表皮渗透。经常将此类载体或媒介物(其为化合物或化合物的混合物)描述为"渗透增强剂"或"皮肤增强剂"。典型的渗透增强剂(可任选从化妆品组合物中将其排除)包括亚砜(例如二甲基亚砜,DMSO)、氮酮(例如月桂氮酮)、吡咯烷酮(例如2-吡咯烷酮,2P)、醇和烷醇(乙醇或癸醇)、表面活性剂(还常见于剂型中)和萜烯。一些渗透增强剂能够嵌在双层的疏水尾之间,因此干扰其堆积(packing),增加其流动性,并且随后导致脂质样渗透剂的更容易扩散。发明人出人意料地发现,根据本公开的某些化妆品组合物提供皮肤活性剂进入成人皮肤的改善的渗透而不必要使用某些渗透增强剂。然而,在一些情况中,可合意的是,包括渗透增强剂,例如本文中讨论的那些。Some therapeutic or cosmetic compositions achieve epidermal penetration through the use of carriers or vehicles that enhance skin penetration. Such carriers or vehicles, which are compounds or mixtures of compounds, are often described as "penetration enhancers" or "skin enhancers". Typical penetration enhancers (which can optionally be excluded from cosmetic compositions) include sulfoxides (e.g. dimethyl sulfoxide, DMSO), azones (e.g. lauryl azone ketones), pyrrolidones (such as 2-pyrrolidone, 2P), alcohols and alkanols (ethanol or decanol), surfactants (also commonly found in dosage forms), and terpenes. Some penetration enhancers are able to become embedded between the hydrophobic tails of the bilayer, thus interfering with its packing, increasing its fluidity, and subsequently leading to easier diffusion of lipid-like penetrants. The inventors have surprisingly discovered that certain cosmetic compositions according to the present disclosure provide improved penetration of skin active agents into adult skin without the necessity of using certain penetration enhancers. In some cases, however, it may be desirable to include penetration enhancers, such as those discussed herein.
在一些情况中,化妆品组合物具有5wt.%或更少、4wt.%或更少、3wt.%或更少、2wt.%或更少或1wt.%或更少的前述渗透增强剂中的任一种。在至少一种情况中,化妆品组合物不含或基本上不含前述渗透增强剂中的任一种。另外或另选地,化妆品组合物可具有总量为约5wt.%或更少、4wt.%或更少、3wt.%或更少、2wt.%或更少、或1wt.%或更少的渗透增强剂。例如,化妆品组合物可不含或基本上不含渗透增强剂。In some cases, the cosmetic composition has 5 wt.% or less, 4 wt.% or less, 3 wt.% or less, 2 wt.% or less, or 1 wt.% or less of the aforementioned penetration enhancers any kind. In at least one instance, the cosmetic composition is free or substantially free of any of the foregoing penetration enhancers. Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may have a total amount of about 5 wt.% or less, 4 wt.% or less, 3 wt.% or less, 2 wt.% or less, or 1 wt.% or less penetration enhancer. For example, a cosmetic composition may be free or substantially free of penetration enhancers.
通常将化妆品组合物配制为乳液。通常,将化妆品组合物配制为水包油乳液,具有乳化在亲水相中的脂肪相。然而,在一些情况中,可将化妆品组合物配制为具有乳化在脂肪相中的亲水相(例如醇、二醇、多元醇等)。在一些情况中,可将化妆品组合物配制为化妆水、精华液、膏霜、喷雾或任何其它合适的产品形式。Cosmetic compositions are usually formulated as emulsions. Typically, cosmetic compositions are formulated as oil-in-water emulsions, having a fatty phase emulsified in a hydrophilic phase. In some cases, however, cosmetic compositions may be formulated to have a hydrophilic phase (eg, alcohol, diol, polyol, etc.) emulsified in a fatty phase. In some cases, the cosmetic composition may be formulated as a lotion, serum, cream, spray, or any other suitable product form.
另外,本公开涉及处理皮肤的方法,其包括将本公开的化妆品组合物施用于皮肤。化妆品组合物另外有用于处理和/或修复归因于光老化的皮肤损害以及减少皱纹、暗斑和不平的皮肤质地的方法中。前述方法可以是非治疗性的。Additionally, the present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin comprising applying to the skin a cosmetic composition of the present disclosure. The cosmetic compositions are additionally useful in methods of treating and/or repairing skin damage due to photoaging and reducing wrinkles, dark spots and uneven skin texture. The foregoing methods may be non-therapeutic.
可将合适的组分(例如下文列举的那些)包括在针对化妆品组合物的配方中或从针对化妆品组合物的配方中排除,这取决于其它组分的特定组合、化妆品组合物的形式和/或配方的用途(例如化妆水、精华液、凝胶、膏霜、喷雾等)。Suitable components, such as those listed below, may be included or excluded from the formulation for the cosmetic composition, depending on the particular combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic composition, and/or Or the use of the formulation (such as lotion, essence, gel, cream, spray, etc.).
C-糖苷C-glycoside
基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,化妆品组合物通常包括约0.1-约10wt.%的量的C-糖苷。例如,基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,存在于化妆品组合物中的C-糖苷的量可以为约0.1-约10wt.%、约0.1-约9wt.%、约0.1-约8wt.%、约0.1-约7wt.%、约0.1-约6wt.%、约0.1-约5wt.%、约0.1-约4wt.%;约1-约10wt.%、约1-约9wt.%、约1-约8wt.%、约1-约7wt.%、约1-约6wt.%、约1-约5wt.%、约1-约4wt.%;约2-约10wt.%、约2-约9wt.%、约2-约8wt.%、约2-约7wt.%、约2-约6wt.%、约2-约5wt.%、约2-约4wt.%;约3-约10wt.%、约3-约9wt.%、约3-约8wt.%、约3-约7wt.%、约3-约6wt.%、约3-约5wt.%或约3-约4wt.%(包括各范围以及其间的子范围)。Cosmetic compositions typically include C-glycosides in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the amount of C-glycoside present in the cosmetic composition can be about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 9 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1-about 7wt.%, about 0.1-about 6wt.%, about 0.1-about 5wt.%, about 0.1-about 4wt.%; about 1-about 10wt.%, about 1-about 9wt.%, about 1- About 8wt.%, about 1-about 7wt.%, about 1-about 6wt.%, about 1-about 5wt.%, about 1-about 4wt.%; about 2-about 10wt.%, about 2-about 9wt.% .%, about 2-about 8wt.%, about 2-about 7wt.%, about 2-about 6wt.%, about 2-about 5wt.%, about 2-about 4wt.%; about 3-about 10wt.% , about 3-about 9wt.%, about 3-about 8wt.%, about 3-about 7wt.%, about 3-about 6wt.%, about 3-about 5wt.% or about 3-about 4wt.% (including ranges and subranges in between).
化妆品组合物可包括一种或更多种具有按照通式(I)的结构的C-糖苷、以及它们的生理学上可接受的盐、它们的溶剂合物(例如水合物)、和它们的光学异构体及几何异构体:Cosmetic compositions may comprise one or more C-glycosides having a structure according to general formula (I), as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates (eg hydrates), and their optical Isomers and Geometric Isomers:
其中:in:
-R代表饱和的C1-C10(特别是C1-C4)烃基,其可任选被选自OH、COOH或COOR”2的至少一个基团取代,其中R”2是饱和的C1-C4烃基,-R represents a saturated C 1 -C 10 (especially C 1 -C 4 ) hydrocarbon group, which may be optionally substituted by at least one group selected from OH, COOH or COOR" 2 , wherein R" 2 is a saturated C 1 -C 4 Hydrocarbyl,
-S代表单糖或包含至多20个糖单元(尤其至多6个糖单元)的多糖,其呈吡喃糖和/或呋喃糖形式并为L和/或D系列,所述单糖或多糖有可能被必定游离的羟基取代,且任选被一个或更多个任选受保护的胺官能团取代,和-S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units (especially up to 6 sugar units), in the form of pyranose and/or furanose and in the L and/or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having may be substituted with necessarily free hydroxyl groups, and optionally with one or more optionally protected amine functions, and
-X代表选自基团–CO-、-CH(OH)-、-CH(NH2)-、-CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-、-CH(NHPh)-和–CH(CH3)-的基团,且特别为基团–CO-、-CH(OH)-或–CH(NH2)-,且更特别为基团–CH(OH)-,-X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-, -CH(NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH 3 )-, and in particular the group -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH 2 )-, and more particularly the group -CH(OH)-,
其中S-CH2-X键代表具有C-端基异构性质的键,其可以是α或β。Wherein the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond with C-anomeric nature, which can be α or β.
式(I)的C-糖苷优选具有其中R表示饱和的直链C1-C6(特别是C1-C4,优选C1-C2)烃基,且更优选甲基的结构。可特别提及以下用于C-糖苷(例如R)的烷基:甲基、乙基、异丙基、正丙基、正丁基、叔丁基、异丁基、仲丁基、戊基、正己基、环丙基、环戊基和环己基。The C-glycosides of formula (I) preferably have a structure in which R represents a saturated linear C 1 -C 6 (in particular C 1 -C 4 , preferably C 1 -C 2 ) hydrocarbon group, and more preferably a methyl group. Particular mention may be made of the following alkyl groups for C-glycosides (eg R): methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl , n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl.
根据至少一种实施方案,可使用对应于式(I)的C-糖苷化合物,其中S代表单糖或包含至多6个糖单元的多糖,例如呈吡喃糖和/或呋喃糖形式且为L和/或D型(chimericseries)。单糖或多糖展现至少一个游离羟基官能团和/或任选的一个或更多个受保护的胺官能团,其它方面,X和R保留上文给出的所有定义。According to at least one embodiment, it is possible to use C-glycoside compounds corresponding to formula (I), wherein S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, for example in the form of pyranose and/or furanose and is L and/or type D (chimericseries). The monosaccharide or polysaccharide exhibits at least one free hydroxyl function and/or optionally one or more protected amine functions, otherwise X and R retain all the definitions given above.
有利地,本发明的单糖可选自D-葡萄糖、D-半乳糖、D-甘露糖、D-木糖、D-来苏糖或L-岩藻糖、L-阿拉伯糖、L-鼠李糖、D-葡糖醛酸、D-半乳糖醛酸、D-艾杜糖醛酸、N-乙酰基-D-葡萄胺或N-乙酰基-D-半乳糖胺,并有利地表示D-葡萄糖、D-木糖、N-乙酰基-D-葡萄胺、L-岩藻糖、及其混合物。在一种情况中,单糖是D-木糖。Advantageously, the monosaccharides of the present invention may be selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-murine Lise, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and advantageously represent D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, L-fucose, and mixtures thereof. In one instance, the monosaccharide is D-xylose.
更特别地,本发明的包含至多6个糖单元的多糖可选自D-麦芽糖、D-乳糖、D-纤维二糖、D-麦芽三糖;结合选自D-艾杜糖醛酸或D-葡糖醛酸的糖醛酸与选自D-半乳糖胺、D-葡糖胺、N-乙酰基-D-半乳糖胺和N-乙酰基-D-葡糖胺的己糖胺的二糖;包含至少一个木糖的低聚糖,其可有利地选自木二糖、甲基-β-木二糖苷、木三糖、木四糖、木五糖和木六糖、及其混合物。优选地,低聚糖是木二糖,其由经由1-4键连接的两个木糖分子组成。更特别地,S可以代表选自D-葡萄糖、D-木糖、L-岩藻糖、D-半乳糖、D-麦芽糖、及其混合物的单糖。在一些情况中,单糖是D-木糖。More particularly, the polysaccharides of the present invention comprising up to 6 sugar units may be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose; the combination is selected from D-iduronic acid or D - the combination of uronic acid of glucuronic acid and hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine Disaccharides; oligosaccharides comprising at least one xylose, which may advantageously be selected from the group consisting of xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and mixture. Preferably, the oligosaccharide is xylobiose, which consists of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond. More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the monosaccharide is D-xylose.
优选地,C-糖苷可以是式(I)的衍生物,其中:Preferably, the C-glycoside may be a derivative of formula (I), wherein:
-R表示未取代的直链C1-C4(特别是C1-C2)烷基,尤其甲基;-R represents unsubstituted straight chain C 1 -C 4 (especially C 1 -C 2 ) alkyl, especially methyl;
-S代表如上描述的单糖,且特别选自D-葡萄糖、D-木糖、N-乙酰基-D-葡萄胺或L-岩藻糖,且特别是D-木糖;且-S represents a monosaccharide as described above, and is in particular selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and especially D-xylose; and
-X代表选自-CO-、-CH(OH)-或-CH(NH2)-的基团,并且优选为基团-CH(OH)-。-X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH 2 )-, and is preferably the group -CH(OH)-.
本文中描述的化合物可呈盐的形式。本公开中描述的化合物的可接受的盐包括所述化合物的常规无毒盐,例如形成自有机酸或无机酸的那些。作为举例,可提及无机酸(例如硫酸或盐酸)的盐。还可提及有机酸的盐,其可包含一个或更多个羧酸基、硫酸基或磷酸基。可特别提及丙酸、乙酸、对苯二甲酸、柠檬酸和酒石酸。The compounds described herein may be in the form of salts. Acceptable salts of the compounds described in this disclosure include conventional non-toxic salts of the compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic acid, sulfate or phosphoric acid groups. Particular mention may be made of propionic, acetic, terephthalic, citric and tartaric acids.
当式(I)的化合物包含酸基时,可使用无机碱或有机碱来进行酸基的中和,无机碱例如为LiOH、NaOH、KOH、Ca(OH)2、NH4OH、Mg(OH)2或Zn(OH)2,有机碱例如为伯烷基胺、仲烷基胺或叔烷基胺。例如可使用三乙胺或丁胺来中和式(I)的化合物。该伯烷基胺、仲烷基胺或叔烷基胺可包含一个或更多个氮原子和/或氧原子,并且可包含例如一个或更多个醇官能团。可提及2-氨基-2-甲基丙醇、三乙醇胺、2-(二甲基氨基)丙醇或2-氨基-2-(羟甲基)-1,3-丙二醇。还可提及赖氨酸或3-(二甲基氨基)丙胺。When the compound of formula (I) contains an acid group, an inorganic base or an organic base can be used to neutralize the acid group, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH) 2 , NH 4 OH, Mg(OH ) 2 or Zn(OH) 2 , the organic base is, for example, primary alkylamine, secondary alkylamine or tertiary alkylamine. For example triethylamine or butylamine can be used to neutralize the compound of formula (I). The primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may contain one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms, and may contain, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups. Mention may be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.
可在化妆品组合物中使用的溶剂合物的非限制性实例包括常规的溶剂合物,例如在制备所述化合物的最后阶段期间由于溶剂的存在而形成的那些。作为举例,可提及归因于水或直链醇或支链醇(例如乙醇或异丙醇)的存在的溶剂合物。当然,根据本公开,可单独使用或作为与其它C-糖苷衍生物且按任何比例的混合物来使用对应于式(I)的C-糖苷衍生物。Non-limiting examples of solvates that can be used in the cosmetic composition include conventional solvates such as those formed due to the presence of solvents during the final stages of preparation of the compounds. By way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol. Of course, according to the present disclosure, the C-glycoside derivatives corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or as mixtures with other C-glycoside derivatives and in any proportion.
适合用于本发明的C-糖苷衍生物可特别通过文献WO 02/051828(将该文献以其整体并入本文,用于所有目的)中描述的合成方法来获得。C-glycoside derivatives suitable for use in the present invention are obtainable in particular by the synthetic methods described in document WO 02/051828 (which document is hereby incorporated in its entirety for all purposes).
可适用于化妆品组合物的C-糖苷化合物的非限制性实例包括:Non-limiting examples of C-glycoside compounds that may be suitable for use in cosmetic compositions include:
-C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-正丙-2-酮、-C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
-C-α-D-吡喃木糖苷-正丙-2-酮、-C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
-C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、-C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
-C-α-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、-C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
-1-(C-β-D-吡喃岩藻糖苷)丙-2-酮、-1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
-1-(C-α-D-吡喃岩藻糖苷)丙-2-酮、-1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
-1-(C-β-L-吡喃岩藻糖苷)丙-2-酮、-1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
-1-(C-α-L-吡喃岩藻糖苷)丙-2-酮、-1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
-1-(C-β-D-吡喃岩藻糖苷)-2-羟基丙烷、-1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
-1-(C-α-D-吡喃岩藻糖苷)-2-羟基丙烷、-1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
-1-(C-β-L-吡喃岩藻糖苷)-2-羟基丙烷、-1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
-1-(C-α-L-吡喃岩藻糖苷)-2-羟基丙烷、-1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
-1-(C-β-D-吡喃葡萄糖基)-2-羟基丙烷、-1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
-1-(C-α-D-吡喃葡萄糖基)-2-羟基丙烷、-1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
-1-(C-β-D-吡喃半乳糖基)-2-羟基丙烷、-1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
-1-(C-α-D-吡喃半乳糖基)-2-羟基丙烷、-1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
-1-(C-β-D-呋喃岩藻糖基)丙-2-酮、-1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
-1-(C-α-D-呋喃岩藻糖基)丙-2-酮、-1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
-1-(C-β-L-呋喃岩藻糖基)丙-2-酮、-1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
-1-(C-α-L-呋喃岩藻糖基)丙-2-酮、-1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
-C-β-D-吡喃麦芽糖苷-正丙-2-酮、-C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
-C-α-D-吡喃麦芽糖苷-正丙-2-酮、-C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
-C-β-D-吡喃麦芽糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、-C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
-C-α-D-吡喃麦芽糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、其异构体、和/或其混合物。-C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, isomers thereof, and/or mixtures thereof.
化妆品组合物可优选包括选自C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、C-α-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、及其混合物的C-糖苷。在一些情况中,C-糖苷是C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷。根据至少一种实施方案,C-糖苷化合物可以是按在水/丙二醇(60重量%/40重量%)混合物中含有30重量%的活性材料的溶液形成提供的C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷(或羟丙基四氢吡喃三醇)。The cosmetic composition may preferably comprise a C-glycoside selected from C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and mixtures thereof. In some instances, the C-glycoside is C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane. According to at least one embodiment, the C-glycoside compound may be C-beta-D-pyranylwood provided in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycol (60% by weight/40% by weight) mixture Glycoside - 2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol).
聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯Polyglyceryl-3 Methyl Glucose Distearate
化妆品组合物包括聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯,其量可以变化,但是基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,典型按约0.1-约5wt.%的量存在。在一些情况中,基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,化妆品组合物中聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯的量为约0.1-约5wt.%、约0.1-约4wt.%、约0.1-约3wt.%、约0.1-约2wt.%、约0.1-约1wt.%;约0.25-约5wt.%、约0.25-约4wt.%、约0.25-约3wt.%、约0.25-约2wt.%、约0.25-约1wt.%;约0.5-约5wt.%、约0.5-约4wt.%、约0.5-约3wt.%、约0.5-约2wt.%、约0.5-约1wt.%;约0.75-约5wt.%、约0.75-约4wt.%、约0.75-约3wt.%、约0.75-约2wt.%;约1-约5wt.%、约1-约4wt.%、约1-约3wt.%或约1-约2wt.%(包括各范围以及其间的子范围)。The cosmetic composition includes polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate in an amount that can vary, but is typically present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the amount of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate in the cosmetic composition is about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1-about 3wt.%, about 0.1-about 2wt.%, about 0.1-about 1wt.%; about 0.25-about 5wt.%, about 0.25-about 4wt.%, about 0.25-about 3wt.%, about 0.25- About 2wt.%, about 0.25-about 1wt.%, about 0.5-about 5wt.%, about 0.5-about 4wt.%, about 0.5-about 3wt.%, about 0.5-about 2wt.%, about 0.5-about 1wt.% .%; about 0.75-about 5wt.%, about 0.75-about 4wt.%, about 0.75-about 3wt.%, about 0.75-about 2wt.%; about 1-about 5wt.%, about 1-about 4wt.% , about 1 to about 3 wt.%, or about 1 to about 2 wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
聚丙烯酸钠Sodium polyacrylate
化妆品组合物包括聚丙烯酸钠,基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,其量通常为约0.1-约5wt.%。例如,基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,存在于化妆品组合物中的聚丙烯酸钠的量可以是约0.1-约5wt.%、约0.1-约4wt.%、约0.1-约3wt.%、约0.1-约2wt.%、约0.1-约1wt.%;约0.3-约5wt.%、约0.3-约4wt.%、约0.3-约3wt.%、约0.3-约2wt.%、约0.3-约1wt.%;约0.5-约5wt.%、约0.5-约4wt.%、约0.5-约3wt.%、约0.5-约2wt.%、约0.5-约1wt.%;约0.75-约5wt.%、约0.75-约4wt.%、约0.75-约3wt.%、约0.75-约2wt.%;约1-约5wt.%、约1-约4wt.%、约1-约3wt.%、约1-约2wt.%;约1.25-约5wt.%、约1.25-约4wt.%、约1.25-约3wt.%、约1.25-约2wt.%(包括各范围以及其间的子范围)。Cosmetic compositions include sodium polyacrylate, generally in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the amount of sodium polyacrylate present in the cosmetic composition may be about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1-about 2wt.%, about 0.1-about 1wt.%; about 0.3-about 5wt.%, about 0.3-about 4wt.%, about 0.3-about 3wt.%, about 0.3-about 2wt.%, about 0.3- About 1wt.%; about 0.5-about 5wt.%, about 0.5-about 4wt.%, about 0.5-about 3wt.%, about 0.5-about 2wt.%, about 0.5-about 1wt.%; about 0.75-about 5wt.% .%, about 0.75-about 4wt.%, about 0.75-about 3wt.%, about 0.75-about 2wt.%; about 1-about 5wt.%, about 1-about 4wt.%, about 1-about 3wt.% , about 1-about 2wt.%; about 1.25-about 5wt.%, about 1.25-about 4wt.%, about 1.25-about 3wt.%, about 1.25-about 2wt.% (including each range and subranges therebetween) .
通常,聚丙烯酸钠可按微粒形式或非微粒形式存在于组合物中。当聚丙烯酸钠以微粒形式存在于时,它们的水合态的平均尺寸优选小于或等于10μm,且甚至更优选小于或等于5μm。它们的非水合态的平均尺寸优选小于或等于2μm、优选小于或等于1μm。In general, sodium polyacrylate can be present in the composition in particulate or non-particulate form. When the sodium polyacrylate is present in particulate form, their average size in the hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 10 μm, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5 μm. Their average size in the unhydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 2 μm, preferably less than or equal to 1 μm.
市售可得的聚丙烯酸钠的非限制性实例包括由Avecia以名称Octacare X100、X110和RM100销售的那些;由SNF以名称Flocare GB300和Flosorb 500销售的那些;由BASF以名称Luquasorb 1003、Luquasorb 1010、Luquasorb 1280和Luquasorb 1100销售的那些;由Grain Processing以名称Water Lock G400和G430(INCI名称:丙烯酰胺/丙烯酸钠共聚物)销售的那些;以名称Aqua Keep 10SH NF、Aqua Keep 10SH NFC(丙烯酸钠交联聚合物-2,由Sumitomo Seika提供)销售的那些;和/或由Sanyo Chemical Industries以名称Sanfresh ST-100C、ST100MC和IM-300MC(INCI名称:淀粉聚丙烯酸钠)销售的那些。Non-limiting examples of commercially available sodium polyacrylates include those sold by Avecia under the names Octacare X100, X110, and RM100; those sold by SNF under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500; those sold by BASF under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010 , Luquasorb 1280, and Luquasorb 1100; those sold by Grain Processing under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer); under the names Aqua Keep 10SH NF, Aqua Keep 10SH NFC (Sodium Acrylate Crosslinked Polymer-2, those sold by Sumitomo Seika); and/or those sold by Sanyo Chemical Industries under the names Sanfresh ST-100C, ST100MC and IM-300MC (INCI name: Sodium Starch Polyacrylate).
多元醇Polyol
化妆品组合物可包括一种或更多种多元醇。基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,化妆品组合物中多元醇(如果存在)的量范围可以为约1-约30wt.%。例如,基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,化妆品组合物可包括以下量的水溶性溶剂:约1-约30wt.%、约1-约25wt.%、约1-约20wt.%、约1-约18wt.%、约1-约16wt.%、约1-约14wt.%、约1-约12wt.%、约1-约10wt.%;约5-约30wt.%、约5-约25wt.%、约5-约20wt.%、约5-约18wt.%、约5-约16wt.%、约5-约14wt.%、约5-约12wt.%、约5-约10wt.%;约10-约30wt.%、约10-约25wt.%、约10-约20wt.%、约10-约18wt.%、约10-约16wt.%、约10-约14wt.%;约12-约30wt.%、约12-约25wt.%、约12-约20wt.%、约12-约18wt.%、约12-约16wt.%;约14-约30wt.%、约14-约25wt.%、约14-约20wt.%、约14-约18wt.%;约16-约30wt.%、约16-约25wt.%、约16-约20wt.%;约18-约30wt.%、约18-约25wt.%、约18-约20wt.%(包括各范围及其子范围)。Cosmetic compositions may include one or more polyols. The amount of polyol (if present) in the cosmetic composition can range from about 1 to about 30 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition may include the following amounts of water-soluble solvents: about 1-about 30 wt.%, about 1-about 25 wt.%, about 1-about 20 wt.%, about 1- About 18wt.%, about 1-about 16wt.%, about 1-about 14wt.%, about 1-about 12wt.%, about 1-about 10wt.%; about 5-about 30wt.%, about 5-about 25wt.% .%, about 5-about 20wt.%, about 5-about 18wt.%, about 5-about 16wt.%, about 5-about 14wt.%, about 5-about 12wt.%, about 5-about 10wt.% about 10-about 30wt.%, about 10-about 25wt.%, about 10-about 20wt.%, about 10-about 18wt.%, about 10-about 16wt.%, about 10-about 14wt.%; 12-about 30wt.%, about 12-about 25wt.%, about 12-about 20wt.%, about 12-about 18wt.%, about 12-about 16wt.%; about 14-about 30wt.%, about 14- About 25wt.%, about 14-about 20wt.%, about 14-about 18wt.%; about 16-about 30wt.%, about 16-about 25wt.%, about 16-about 20wt.%; about 18-about 30wt.% %, about 18 to about 25 wt.%, about 18 to about 20 wt.% (including ranges and subranges thereof).
多元醇是有用的。术语"多元醇"在本公开的含义内应理解为表示包含至少两个游离羟基的有机分子。化妆品组合物的多元醇可以是二醇或具有众多羟基的化合物。在一些情况中,一种或更多种多元醇选自C2-C32多元醇。一种或更多种多元醇在环境温度(25℃)下可以是液体。一种或更多种多元醇可具有2-32个碳原子、3-16个碳原子或3-12个碳原子。Polyols are useful. The term "polyol" is understood within the meaning of the present disclosure to mean an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyol of the cosmetic composition may be a diol or a compound having numerous hydroxyl groups. In some cases, the one or more polyols are selected from C 2 -C 32 polyols. The one or more polyols may be liquid at ambient temperature (25°C). The one or more polyols can have 2-32 carbon atoms, 3-16 carbon atoms, or 3-12 carbon atoms.
可任选包括在化妆品组合物中的多元醇的非限制性实例包括和/或可选自链烷二醇,例如甘油、1,2,6-己三醇、三羟甲基丙烷、乙二醇、丙二醇、丁二醇、戊二醇、己二醇、二甘醇、三甘醇、四甘醇、五甘醇、一缩二丙二醇、2-丁烯-1,4-二醇、2-乙基-1,3-己二醇、2-甲基-2,4-戊二醇、辛甘醇、1,2-己二醇、1,2-戊二醇和4-甲基-1,2-戊二醇;二醇醚,例如乙二醇单甲基醚、乙二醇单乙基醚、乙二醇单丁基醚、乙二醇单甲基醚乙酸酯、二甘醇单甲基醚、二甘醇单乙基醚、二甘醇单正丙基醚、乙二醇单异丙基醚、二甘醇单异丙基醚、乙二醇单正丁基醚、乙二醇单叔丁基醚、二甘醇单叔丁基醚、1-甲基-1-甲氧基丁醇、丙二醇单甲基醚、丙二醇单乙基醚、丙二醇单叔丁基醚、丙二醇单正丙基醚、丙二醇单异丙基醚、一缩二丙二醇单甲基醚、一缩二丙二醇单乙基醚、一缩二丙二醇单正丙基醚、一缩二丙二醇单异丙基醚、山梨糖醇、失水山梨糖醇、三醋精、及其混合物。一种或更多种多元醇可任选为二醇或二醇醚,例如乙二醇、丙二醇或其醚的单甲基醚、单乙基醚和单丁基醚,例如丙二醇、丁二醇、己二醇、一缩二丙二醇的单甲基醚;以及二甘醇的烷基醚,例如二甘醇的单乙基醚或单丁基醚。Non-limiting examples of polyols that may optionally be included in cosmetic compositions include and/or may be selected from alkanediols such as glycerol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, Alcohol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2 -Ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1 ,2-Pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol Monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, diethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethyl Glycol mono-tert-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-tert-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-tert-butyl ether, propylene glycol Mono-n-propyl ether, Propylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, Dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, Dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, Dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, Dipropylene glycol monoisopropyl ether , sorbitol, sorbitan, triacetin, and mixtures thereof. The one or more polyols may optionally be glycols or glycol ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol , hexanediol, monomethyl ether of dipropylene glycol; and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, such as monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
在一些情况中,多元醇包括甘油、乙二醇、二甘醇、三甘醇、丙二醇、一缩二丙二醇、二缩三丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、2,3-丁二醇、1,4-丁二醇、3-甲基-1,3-丁二醇、1,5-戊二醇、四甘醇、1,6-己二醇、2-甲基-2,4-戊二醇、聚乙二醇、1,2,4-丁三醇、1,2,6-己三醇、及其混合物。还可使用多元醇化合物。非限制性实例包括脂族二醇,例如2-乙基-2-甲基-1,3-丙二醇、3,3-二甲基-1,2-丁二醇、2,2-二乙基-1,3-丙二醇、2-甲基-2-丙基-1,3-丙二醇、2,4-二甲基-2,4-戊二醇、2,5-二甲基-2,5-己二醇、5-己基-1,2-二醇和2-乙基-1,3-己二醇、及其混合物。In some cases, polyols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4- Pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl -1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5 - hexanediol, 5-hexyl-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and mixtures thereof.
在一些情况中,多元醇选自乙二醇、丙二醇、丁二醇、己二醇、戊二醇、二甘醇、一缩二丙二醇、辛甘醇、1,3-丙二醇、甘油、一缩二甘油、聚乙二醇、及其混合物。In some cases, the polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, Diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
去油光剂degreaser
本公开的化妆品组合物可包括去油光剂。基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,化妆品组合物中去油光剂的量可以是例如约0.1-约10wt.%、约0.1-约8wt.%、约0.1-约6wt.%、约0.1-约5wt.%、约0.1-约4wt.%、约0.1-约3wt.%、约0.1-约2wt.%、约0.1-约1wt.%;约0.25-约10wt.%、约0.25-约8wt.%、约0.25-约6wt.%、约0.25-约5wt.%、约0.25-约4wt.%、约0.25-约3wt.%、约0.25-约2wt.%、约0.25-约1wt.%;约0.5-约10wt.%、约0.5-约8wt.%、约0.5-约6wt.%、约0.5-约5wt.%、约0.5-约4wt.%、约0.5-约3wt.%、约0.5-约2wt.%、约0.5-约1wt.%;约0.75-约10wt.%、约0.75-约8wt.%、约0.75-约6wt.%、约0.75-约5wt.%、约0.75-约4wt.%、约0.75-约3wt.%、约0.75-约2wt.%;约1-约10wt.%、约1-约8wt.%、约1-约6wt.%、约1-约5wt.%、约1-约4wt.%、约1-约3wt.%或约1-约2wt.%(包括各范围以及其间的子范围)。Cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may include a degreasing agent. Based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the amount of degreasing agent in the cosmetic composition can be, for example, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt. .%, about 0.1-about 4wt.%, about 0.1-about 3wt.%, about 0.1-about 2wt.%, about 0.1-about 1wt.%; about 0.25-about 10wt.%, about 0.25-about 8wt.% , about 0.25-about 6wt.%, about 0.25-about 5wt.%, about 0.25-about 4wt.%, about 0.25-about 3wt.%, about 0.25-about 2wt.%, about 0.25-about 1wt.%; about 0.5-about 10wt.%, about 0.5-about 8wt.%, about 0.5-about 6wt.%, about 0.5-about 5wt.%, about 0.5-about 4wt.%, about 0.5-about 3wt.%, about 0.5- About 2wt.%, about 0.5-about 1wt.%, about 0.75-about 10wt.%, about 0.75-about 8wt.%, about 0.75-about 6wt.%, about 0.75-about 5wt.%, about 0.75-about 4wt.% .%, about 0.75-about 3wt.%, about 0.75-about 2wt.%; about 1-about 10wt.%, about 1-about 8wt.%, about 1-about 6wt.%, about 1-about 5wt.% , about 1 to about 4 wt.%, about 1 to about 3 wt.%, or about 1 to about 2 wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
去油光剂(也称作“去油光填料”)指给予肤色更透明且朦胧效果并且为皮肤提供自然且合意的外观而不赋予其油腻、闪闪发光和光亮的外观的材料。为此,这些材料通常是吸收剂填料,例如滑石、二氧化硅、高岭土;或者具有光散射光学性质的填料,所述性质以"软聚焦"效应为名称而为人所知。除了减少光泽或油腻,去油光剂可有助于化妆品组合物的总体质地和厚度。去油光剂通常是(但非总是)微粒材料或粉末。Degreasing agents (also known as "degreasing fillers") refer to materials that impart a clearer and hazy effect to the complexion and provide the skin with a natural and desirable appearance without giving it a greasy, shimmery and shiny appearance. For this purpose, these materials are usually absorbent fillers, such as talc, silica, kaolin, or fillers with light-scattering optical properties known under the name of the "soft focus" effect. In addition to reducing shine or greasiness, degreasing agents can contribute to the overall texture and thickness of the cosmetic composition. Degreasing agents are usually, but not always, particulate materials or powders.
可凭借以下规程来表征含有去油光剂的化妆品组合物。使用机械膜扩散机(filmspreader)使测试组合物以2mg/cm2的速率在对比卡(由Erichsen公司销售的Prufkarte型24/5-250cm2)上扩散开。随后在37℃的温度下将组合物干燥过夜,之后使用由Micromodule公司销售的测角反射计(gonioreflectometer)测量其反射。依次测量30°(R)处镜面反射强度和90°(D)处散射强度。获得的结果为镜面反射和漫反射之间的比率R。R的值成比例地越小,由填料所提供的去油光效应越大。小于或等于2的R的值通常指示去油光效应。根据本公开的去油光剂包括优选以在化妆品组合物中5%的含量给出小于1.5且优选小于1的R的值的那些。Cosmetic compositions containing degreasing agents can be characterized by means of the following protocol. The test composition is spread at a rate of 2 mg/cm 2 over a control card (Prufkarte type 24/5-250 cm 2 sold by the company Erichsen) using a mechanical film spreader. The composition was then dried overnight at a temperature of 37° C., after which its reflection was measured using a gonior reflectometer sold by the company Micromodule. Measure the specular reflection intensity at 30° (R) and the scattering intensity at 90° (D) in sequence. The result obtained is the ratio R between specular and diffuse reflection. Proportionally the smaller the value of R, the greater the de-greasing effect provided by the filler. A value of R less than or equal to 2 generally indicates a degreasing effect. The degreasing agents according to the present disclosure include those which give R values of less than 1.5 and preferably less than 1, preferably at a level of 5% in the cosmetic composition.
去油光剂的非限制性实例包括:二氧化硅、粘土、硅酸盐衍生物、疏水二氧化硅气凝胶颗粒、多孔二氧化硅微粒,例如来自Miyoshi的平均尺寸为5微米的Silica BeadsSB150 and SB700;来自Asahi Glass的Sunsphere H系列产品,例如Sunsphere H33、H51和H53,其各自尺寸为3μm、5μm和5μm;聚四氟乙烯粉末,例如来自Clariant的PTFE Ceridust9205F,其平均尺寸为8微米;硅酮树脂粉末,例如来自GE Silicone的硅酮树脂Tospearl145A,其平均尺寸为4.5微米;中空半球形硅酮颗粒,例如来自Takemoto Oil and Fat的NLK500、NLK 506和NLK 510;丙烯酸类共聚物粉末(尤其聚(甲基)丙烯酸甲酯粉末),例如来自Nihon Junyoki的PMMA颗粒Jurymer MBI,其平均尺寸为8微米;由Wackher公司以名称Covabead LH 85销售的中空PMMA球、以及以名称Expancel销售的偏氯乙烯/丙烯腈/甲基丙烯酸亚甲酯(methylene methacrylate)膨胀微球;蜡粉末,例如来自MicroPowders的链烷烃蜡颗粒MicroEase 114S,其平均尺寸为7微米;聚乙烯粉末,尤其包含至少一种乙烯/丙烯酸共聚物,并且特别是由乙烯/丙烯酸共聚物组成,例如来自Sumitomo的Flobeads EA 209颗粒(其平均尺寸为10微米);经硅酮树脂涂覆(尤其经倍半硅氧烷树脂涂覆)的交联弹性体有机聚硅氧烷粉末,如描述于例如专利美国专利第5,538,793中。此类弹性体粉末由Shin-Etsu公司以名称KSP-100、KSP-101、KSP-102、KSP-103、KSP-104和KSP-105销售;聚酰胺(尼龙.RTM.)粉末,例如来自Atofina的Orgasol型尼龙12颗粒,其平均尺寸为10微米;聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯(PMMA)型粉末;滑石;二氧化硅/TiO2或二氧化硅/氧化锌复合物、苯乙烯/丙烯酸类共聚物粉末;及其混合物。Non-limiting examples of degreasing agents include: silica, clays, silicate derivatives, hydrophobic silica airgel particles, porous silica microparticles, such as Silica Beads SB150 with an average size of 5 microns from Miyoshi and SB700; Sunsphere H series products from Asahi Glass, such as Sunsphere H33, H51, and H53, with respective sizes of 3 μm, 5 μm, and 5 μm; polytetrafluoroethylene powder, such as PTFE Ceridust 9205F from Clariant, with an average size of 8 μm; silicon Ketone resin powders such as silicone resin Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone with an average size of 4.5 microns; hollow hemispherical silicone particles such as NLK500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 from Takemoto Oil and Fat; acrylic copolymer powders (especially Polymethyl(meth)acrylate powder), such as PMMA particles Jurymer MBI from Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 micrometers; hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name Covabead LH 85 by the company Wackher, and metachloride sold under the name Expancel Ethylene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate expanded microspheres; wax powders, such as MicroEase 114S paraffin wax particles from MicroPowders, with an average size of 7 microns; polyethylene powders, especially containing at least one ethylene /acrylic acid copolymers, and especially consisting of ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers, such as Flobeads EA 209 particles from Sumitomo (average size 10 microns); coated with silicone resins (especially silsesquioxane resins) ) of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, as described, for example, in patent US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are marketed by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105; polyamide (nylon. RTM.) powders, e.g. from Atofina Orgasol type nylon 12 particles with an average size of 10 microns; polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) type powder; talc; silica/ TiO2 or silica/zinc oxide composites, styrene/acrylic copolymers powders; and mixtures thereof.
在粘土之中,可提及蒙皂石家族的粘土,例如锂皂石(laponite);高岭石家族的粘土,例如高岭石、地开石或珍珠石;多水高岭土、杜姆贝塞石(dombassite)、叶蛇纹石、磁绿泥石(berthierine)或叶蜡石家族、蒙脱石、贝德石、蛭石、滑石、硅镁石、锂蒙脱石、皂石、绿泥石、海泡石和伊利石(家族)的任选改性的粘土。Among the clays, mention may be made of clays of the smectite family, such as laponite; clays of the kaolinite family, such as kaolinite, dickite or perlite; halloysite, dombese dombassite, antigorite, berthierine or pyrophyllite family, montmorillonite, beiderite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, saponite, chlorite Optionally modified clays of chrysene, sepiolite and illite (family).
粘土包括描述于例如出版物Mineralogie des argiles[粘土矿物学](S.Caillere,S.Henin,M.Rautureau,第2版,1982年,Masson)中的产品,通过引用将该出版物以其整体并入本文。天然粘土是很大程度上由特定矿物(通常铝的硅酸盐)组成的沉积岩。高岭土是天然粘土。粘土还可以是合成的。还可以用诸如丙烯酸、多糖(例如羧甲基纤维素)或有机阳离子之类的各种化合物来对粘土进行化学改性。在一些情况中,本公开的化妆品组合物包括选自以下的粘土:高岭石、蒙脱石、皂石、锂皂石、锂蒙脱石(包括二硬脂二甲铵锂蒙脱石)和伊利石。Clays include products described, for example, in the publication Mineralogie des argiles [Clay Mineralogy] (S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd ed., 1982, Masson), which publication is incorporated by reference in its entirety Incorporated into this article. Natural clays are sedimentary rocks composed largely of specific minerals, usually silicates of aluminium. Kaolin is a natural clay. Clays can also be synthetic. Clays can also be chemically modified with various compounds such as acrylic acid, polysaccharides (eg carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include a clay selected from the group consisting of kaolinite, montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite, hectorite (including disteardimethylammonium hectorite) and illite.
可提及的二氧化硅衍生物包括二氧化硅粉末,例如由Miyoshi公司以名称SILICABEADS SB-700销售的多孔二氧化硅微球;由Asahi Glass公司销售的产品SUNSPHERE H51、SUNSPHERE H33和SUNSPHERE H53;由Asahi Glass公司以名称SA SUNSPHERE H-33和SASUNSPHERE H-53销售的聚二甲基硅氧烷涂覆的无定形二氧化硅微球;二氧化硅微珠,例如由Miyoshi公司以名称SB150销售的那些。Silica derivatives that may be mentioned include silica powders such as porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICABEADS SB-700 by the company Miyoshi; the products SUNSPHERE H51, SUNSPHERE H33 and SUNSPHERE H53 sold by the company Asahi Glass; Dimethicone-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the names SA SUNSPHERE H-33 and SASUNSPHERE H-53 by the company Asahi Glass; silica microspheres, for example sold under the name SB150 by the company Miyoshi of those.
在一些情况中,化妆品组合物包括选自以下的一种或更多种去油光剂:甲基丙烯酸甲酯/二甲基丙烯酸乙二醇酯交联聚合物、乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷倍半硅氧烷交联聚合物、甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物、尼龙-12、聚酰胺、聚乙烯、滑石、二氧化钛、二氧化硅、淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸铝、粘土(例如锂蒙脱石粘土,包括二硬脂二甲铵锂蒙脱石)、二氧化硅、聚甲基倍半硅氧烷、及其混合物。优选地,去油光剂(如果存在)是淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸铝。In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes one or more degreasing agents selected from the group consisting of methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone Alkane/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Nylon-12, Polyamide, Polyethylene, Talc, Titanium Dioxide, Silica, Starch Octenyl Aluminum succinate, clays (eg, hectorite clays, including disteardimethylammonium hectorite), silica, polymethylsilsesquioxanes, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the degreasing agent, if present, is aluminum starch octenyl succinate.
油Oil
化妆品组合物包含一种或更多种油,例如硅油、氟油、基于烃的油等。在一些情况中,化妆品组合物包括油,其为基于植物的油或基于蔬菜的油。基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,存在于化妆品组合物中的油和/或基于植物的油或基于蔬菜的油的量可以为约0.1-约10wt.%、约0.1-约8wt.%、约0.1-约7wt.%、约0.1-约6wt.%、约0.1-约5wt.%;约0.5-约10wt.%、约0.5-约8wt.%、约0.5-约7wt.%、约0.5-约6wt.%、约0.5-约5wt.%;约1-约10wt.%、约1-约8wt.%、约1-约7wt.%、约1-约6wt.%、约1-约5wt.%;约2-约10wt.%、约2-约8wt.%、约2-约7wt.%、约2-约6wt.%、约2-约5wt.%;约3-约10wt.%、约3-约8wt.%、约3-约7wt.%、约3-约6wt.%、约3-约5wt.%;约4-约10wt.%、约4-约8wt.%或约4-约7wt.%(包括所有的范围以及其间的子范围)。Cosmetic compositions comprise one or more oils, such as silicone oils, fluoro oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, and the like. In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes an oil, which is a vegetable-based oil or a vegetable-based oil. Based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the oil and/or vegetable-based oil or vegetable-based oil may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1-about 7wt.%, about 0.1-about 6wt.%, about 0.1-about 5wt.%; about 0.5-about 10wt.%, about 0.5-about 8wt.%, about 0.5-about 7wt.%, about 0.5- About 6wt.%, about 0.5-about 5wt.%, about 1-about 10wt.%, about 1-about 8wt.%, about 1-about 7wt.%, about 1-about 6wt.%, about 1-about 5wt.% .%; about 2-about 10wt.%, about 2-about 8wt.%, about 2-about 7wt.%, about 2-about 6wt.%, about 2-about 5wt.%; about 3-about 10wt.% , about 3-about 8wt.%, about 3-about 7wt.%, about 3-about 6wt.%, about 3-about 5wt.%; about 4-about 10wt.%, about 4-about 8wt.% or about 4 to about 7 wt.% (including all ranges and subranges therebetween).
另外和/或另选地,化妆品组合物可排除合成油。在一些情况中,化妆品组合物可排除基于植物的油和基于蔬菜的油之外的油。例如,基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,合成油和/或除基于植物的油和基于蔬菜的油之外的油的量可以为约5wt.%或更少、约4wt.%或更少、约3wt.%或更少、约2wt.%或更少、约1wt.%或更少或约0.5wt.%或更少。在至少一种实施方案中,化妆品组合物不含或基本上不含合成油和/或除基于植物的油和基于蔬菜的油之外的油。Additionally and/or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may exclude synthetic oils. In some cases, the cosmetic composition may exclude oils other than plant-based and vegetable-based oils. For example, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the amount of synthetic oil and/or oils other than vegetable-based and vegetable-based oils may be about 5 wt.% or less, about 4 wt.% or less, About 3 wt.% or less, about 2 wt.% or less, about 1 wt.% or less, or about 0.5 wt.% or less. In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is free or substantially free of synthetic oils and/or oils other than vegetable-based and vegetable-based oils.
术语"油"表示在室温(20-25℃)和大气压(760mmHg)下呈液体形式的任何脂肪物质。通常,化妆品组合物中的油中的至少一种是油相的一部分。"油相"是包含可包括另外的脂溶性和亲脂性成分和脂肪物质的至少一种油的相。适合在本文中使用的油可以是挥发性的或非挥发性的。术语"挥发性油"涉及能够在室温和大气压下与皮肤或角蛋白纤维接触不到一小时内蒸发的油。挥发性油在室温下为液体,并且在室温和大气压下具有非零蒸气压,其范围特别为0.13Pa-40000 Pa(10-3-300mmHg)。术语"非挥发性油"涉及在室温和大气压下在皮肤或角蛋白纤维上保持至少若干小时,并且特别具有小于10-3mmHg(0.13Pa)的蒸气压的油。The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Typically, at least one of the oils in the cosmetic composition is part of the oily phase. "Oil phase" is a phase comprising at least one oil which may include additional fat-soluble and lipophilic components and fatty substances. Oils suitable for use herein can be volatile or nonvolatile. The term "volatile oil" relates to an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fibers in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10 −3 to 300 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" relates to oils that remain on the skin or keratin fibers for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and in particular have a vapor pressure of less than 10 −3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
术语"硅油"涉及包含至少一个硅原子,且尤其至少一个Si-O基团的油。术语"氟油"涉及包含至少一个氟原子的油。术语"基于烃的油"涉及主要包含氢原子和碳原子的油。基于烃的油可以是基于烃的动物油、基于烃的植物油、基于烃的矿物油或基于烃的合成油。此外,合适的油可以是基于烃的矿物油、基于烃的植物油或基于烃的合成油。The term "silicone oil" relates to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group. The term "fluoro oil" relates to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" relates to an oil mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon based oil may be a hydrocarbon based animal oil, a hydrocarbon based vegetable oil, a hydrocarbon based mineral oil or a hydrocarbon based synthetic oil. Furthermore, suitable oils may be hydrocarbon-based mineral oils, hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils or hydrocarbon-based synthetic oils.
硅油silicone oil
本文描述的化妆品组合物可包含一种或更多种硅油。硅油的非限制性实例包括聚二甲基硅氧烷、环聚甲基硅氧烷、聚硅酮-11、苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、三甲基甲硅烷基氨端聚二甲基硅氧烷(trimethylsilylamodimethicone)和硬脂氧基三甲基硅烷。在一些情况中,化妆品组合物包括聚二甲基硅氧烷;以及任选的附加的油,包括附加的硅油。通常,一种或更多种硅油是非挥发性硅油。在一些实施方案中,硅油是聚二甲基硅氧烷(PDMS);包含侧挂的和/或位于硅酮链端部的烷基或烷氧基的聚二甲基硅氧烷,所述基团各自含有2-24个碳原子;或苯基硅酮,例如苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷、苯基(三甲基硅烷氧基)二苯基硅氧烷、二苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷、二苯基(甲基二苯基)三硅氧烷或(2-苯乙基)三甲基甲硅烷氧基硅酸酯。The cosmetic compositions described herein may comprise one or more silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilyl amomethicone Trimethylsilylamodimethicone and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes dimethicone; and optionally additional oils, including additional silicone oils. Typically, the one or more silicone oils are non-volatile silicone oils. In some embodiments, the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxane comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups each containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenyl diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxane or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicate.
可提及的硅油的其它实例包括挥发性线形硅油或环状硅油,尤其粘度为8厘沱(8×106m2/s)并尤其含有2-7个硅原子的那些,这些硅酮任选包含含有1-10个碳原子的烷基或烷氧基。作为可在本发明中使用的挥发性硅油,可尤其提及八甲基环四硅氧烷、十甲基环五硅氧烷、十二甲基环六硅氧烷、七甲基己基三硅氧烷、七甲基辛基三硅氧烷、六甲基二硅氧烷、八甲基三硅氧烷、十甲基四硅氧烷、十二甲基五硅氧烷、及其混合物。Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8×10 6 m 2 /s) and especially containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms, any of which An alkyl or alkoxy group containing 1-10 carbon atoms is selected. As volatile silicone oils which can be used in the present invention, mention may especially be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane oxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
氟油Fluorine oil
本文描述的化妆品组合物可包含一种或更多种氟油。例如,一种或更多种氟油可选自全氟甲基环戊烷、全氟-1,3-二甲基环己烷、十二氟戊烷、十四氟己烷、溴全氟辛基、九氟甲氧基丁烷、九氟乙氧基异丁烷和4-三氟甲基全氟吗啉。还可以使用挥发性氟油,例如九氟甲氧基丁烷、十氟戊烷、十四氟己烷、十二氟戊烷。The cosmetic compositions described herein may comprise one or more fluoro oils. For example, one or more fluoro oils may be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, tetrafluorohexane, bromoperfluoro Octyl, nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoroethoxyisobutane and 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine. Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane can also be used.
基于烃的油hydrocarbon based oil
本文描述的化妆品组合物可包含一种或更多种基于烃的油。例如,基于烃的油可以是饱和烃、不饱和烃、脂质、甘油三酯、天然油和/或合成油。在一些实施方案中,组合物包括选自氢化聚异丁烯和/或氢化聚癸烯的合成油。The cosmetic compositions described herein may comprise one or more hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, hydrocarbon-based oils can be saturated hydrocarbons, unsaturated hydrocarbons, lipids, triglycerides, natural oils and/or synthetic oils. In some embodiments, the composition includes a synthetic oil selected from hydrogenated polyisobutene and/or hydrogenated polydecene.
基于烃的油可以是非挥发性基于烃的油,例如:The hydrocarbon based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon based oil such as:
(i)植物来源的基于烃的油,例如甘油三酯,其通常为脂肪酸和甘油的三酯,其脂肪酸可具有C4-C24的不同的链长度,这些链可能是饱和或不饱和的以及线形或支化的;这些油特别是小麦胚芽油、葵花油、葡萄籽油、芝麻油、玉米油、杏油、蓖麻油、乳木果油、鳄梨油、橄榄油、大豆油、甜杏仁油、棕榈油、菜籽油、棉籽油、榛子油、澳洲坚果油、霍霍巴油、苜蓿油、罂粟油、南瓜籽油、西葫芦油、黑醋栗油、月见草油、小米油、大麦油、昆诺阿藜油、黑麦油、红花油、烛果油、西番莲油和麝香玫瑰油。(i) Hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24 , which chains may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are especially wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond Oil, Palm Oil, Canola Oil, Cottonseed Oil, Hazelnut Oil, Macadamia Oil, Jojoba Oil, Alfalfa Oil, Poppy Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Zucchini Oil, Black Currant Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Millet Oil, Barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candelilla oil, passionflower oil and musk rose oil.
(ii)含有10-40个碳原子的合成醚;(ii) synthetic ethers containing 10-40 carbon atoms;
(iii)矿物来源或合成来源的直链烃或支链烃,例如矿脂、聚癸烯、氢化聚异丁烯(例如Parleam)和40角鲨烷;(iii) straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as Parleam) and 40 squalane;
(iv)合成酯,例如式RCOOR'的油,其中R代表含有1-40个碳原子的直链或支链脂肪酸残基,且R'代表尤其是支化的基于烃的链,其含有1-40个碳原子,条件是,R+R'≥10,例如尾脂腺油(Purcellin oil)(辛酸鲸蜡硬脂酯)、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、棕榈酸异丙酯;苯甲酸C12-C15烷基酯,例如由Witco以商品名Finsolv或Witconol销售的产品或者由EvonikGoldschmidt以商品名Tegosoft销售的产品;苯甲酸2-乙基苯酯,例如由ISP以名称X-Tend 226销售的商品;羊毛脂酸异丙酯、月桂酸己酯、己二酸二异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、芥酸油醇酯、棕榈酸2-乙基己酯、异硬脂酸异硬脂酯;癸二酸二异丙酯,例如由StearinerieDubois以名称“Dub Dis”销售的产品;醇或多元醇的辛酸酯、癸酸酯或蓖麻油酸酯,例如二辛酸丙二醇酯;羟基化酯,例如乳酸异硬脂酯或苹果酸二异硬脂酯;和季戊四醇酯;柠檬酸酯或酒石酸酯,例如酒石酸二(直链C12-C13烷基)酯,例如由Enichem Augusta Industriale以名称Cosmacol销售的那些;以及酒石酸二(直链C14-C15烷基)酯,例如由同一公司以名称Cosmacol销售的那些;或乙酸酯;(iv) synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula RCOOR', wherein R represents a straight or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 -40 carbon atoms, provided that R+R'≥10, such as Purcellin oil (cetearyl caprylate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate; benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, for example by Witco under the trade name Finsolv or Witconol products sold by EvonikGoldschmidt or under the trade name Tegosoft Products sold; 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as that sold by ISP under the name X-Tend 226; Isopropyl lanolate, Hexyl laurate, Diisopropyl adipate, Iso-nononanoate Nonyl, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate; diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stearinerie Dubois; alcohol or Caprylic, capric, or ricinoleic acid esters of polyols, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartaric acid Esters, such as bis(linear C 12 -C 13 alkyl) tartrates, for example by Enichem Augusta Industriale under the name Cosmacol and those sold under the name Cosmacol those sold; or acetates;
(v)在室温下为液体的含有具有12-26个碳原子的支化且/或不饱和的基于碳的链的脂肪醇,例如辛基十二烷醇、异硬脂醇、油醇、2-己基癸醇、2-丁基辛醇或2-十一烷基十五烷醇;(v) fatty alcohols containing branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chains having 12 to 26 carbon atoms which are liquid at room temperature, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-Hexyldecanol, 2-Butyloctanol or 2-Undecylpentadecanol;
(vi)高级脂肪酸,例如油酸、亚油酸或亚麻酸;(vi) higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
(vii)碳酸酯,例如碳酸二辛酯,例如由Cognis以名称Cetiol销售的产品;(vii) Carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate, for example by Cognis under the name Cetiol Products on sale;
(viii)脂肪酰胺,例如N-月桂酰肌氨酸异丙酯,例如来自Ajinomoto的以商品名Eldew销售的产品;和(viii) Fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as Eldew® from Ajinomoto under the trade name Eldew products sold; and
(ix)精油,其选自葵花油、芝麻油、薄荷油、澳洲坚果油、茶树油、月见草油、鼠尾草油、迷迭香油、芫荽油、百里香油、甘椒浆果油、玫瑰油、茴香油、香脂油、香柠檬油、玫瑰木油、雪松油、春黄菊油、鼠尾草油、香紫苏油、丁香油、柏树油、桉树油、小茴香油、海茴香油、乳香油、老鹳草油、姜油、葡萄柚油、茉莉油、桧油、薰衣草油、柠檬油、柠檬草油、梨莓油、橘子油、甘牛至油、没药油、苦橙花油、橙油、广藿香油、胡椒油、黑胡椒油、橙叶油、松油、奥图玫瑰油、迷迭香油、檀香油、留兰香油、甘松油、香根油、冬青油和依兰依兰(油)。(ix) Essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berry oil, rose oil , Anise Oil, Balsam Oil, Bergamot Oil, Rosewood Oil, Cedarwood Oil, Chamomile Oil, Clary Sage Oil, Clary Sage Oil, Clove Oil, Cypress Oil, Eucalyptus Oil, Cumin Oil, Sea Fennel Oil, Milk Sesame Oil, Geranium Oil, Ginger Oil, Grapefruit Oil, Jasmine Oil, Juniper Oil, Lavender Oil, Lemon Oil, Lemongrass Oil, Pearberry Oil, Tangerine Oil, Margana Oil, Myrrh Oil, Neroli Oil , Orange Oil, Patchouli Oil, Pepper Oil, Black Pepper Oil, Orange Leaf Oil, Pine Oil, Rose Otto Oil, Rosemary Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Spearmint Oil, Nardine Oil, Vetiver Oil, Wintergreen Oil, and Elephant Oil Lan Ylang (oil).
在某些情况中,非挥发性基于烃的油是甘油三酯,并且特别是辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯;合成酯,并且特别是异壬酸异壬酯、芥酸油醇酯、苯甲酸C12-C15烷基酯、苯甲酸2-乙基苯酯;和脂肪醇,例如辛基十二烷醇。In some cases, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are triglycerides, and especially caprylic/capric triglycerides; synthetic esters, and especially isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 alkyl esters, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate; and fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol.
作为挥发性基于烃的油,提及含有8-16个碳原子的基于烃的油,并且特别提及支化的C8-C16烷烃,例如石油来源的C8-C16异烷烃(也称为异链烷烃),例如异十二烷(也称为2,2,4,4,6-五甲基庚烷)、异癸烷或异十六烷;以Isopar或Permethyl商品名销售的油;支化C8-C16酯;和新戊酸异己酯。As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, mention is made of hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, or isohexadecane; sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl oils; branched C8 - C16 esters; and isohexyl pivalate.
优选地,油选自基于植物的油或基于蔬菜的油,例如椰子油、大豆油、低芥酸菜籽油、菜籽油、玉米油、棉籽油、橄榄油、棕榈油、花生油、红花油、芝麻油、葵花油、亚麻籽油、棕榈仁油、桐油、麻风树油、芥子油、亚麻荠油、菥蓂油、蓖麻油、小麦胚芽油、杏仁油、阿月浑子树油、罂粟油、松油、鳄梨油、榛子油、葡萄籽油、菜油、杜松油、桃仁油、咖啡豆油、霍霍巴油、及其混合物。Preferably, the oil is selected from vegetable-based or vegetable-based oils, such as coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, galica oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, almond oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, canola oil, juniper oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.
除聚丙烯酸钠以外的增稠剂Thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate
本文描述的化妆品组合物可任选包括除聚丙烯酸钠以外的增稠剂。基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,除聚丙烯酸钠以外的增稠剂的量可以为约0.01wt.%-约5wt.%、约0.01wt.%-约4wt.%、约0.01wt.%-约3wt.%、约0.01wt.%-约2wt.%、约0.01wt.%-约1wt.%;0.05wt.%-约3wt.%、约0.05wt.%-约2wt.%、约0.05wt.%-约1wt.%;约0.1wt.%-约5wt.%、约0.1wt.%-约4wt.%、约0.1wt.%-约3wt.%、约0.1wt.%-约2wt.%、约0.1wt.%-约1wt.%;约0.2wt.%-约5wt.%、约0.2wt.%-约4wt.%、约0.2wt.%-约3wt.%、约0.2wt.%-约2wt.%、约0.2wt.%-约1wt.%;约0.3wt.%-约5wt.%、约0.3wt.%-约4wt.%、约0.3wt.%-约3wt.%、约0.3wt.%-约2wt.%或约0.3wt.%-约1wt.%(包括各范围及其子范围)。此外,基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,增稠剂的量可以为0.1wt.%、0.2wt.%、0.3wt.%、0.4wt.%、0.5wt.%、0.6wt.%、0.7wt.%、0.8wt.%、0.9wt.%、1.0wt.%或1.5wt.%至2wt.%、3wt.%、4wt.%或5wt.%(包括各范围及其子范围)。The cosmetic compositions described herein may optionally include thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate. Based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the amount of thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate can be about 0.01wt.% to about 5wt.%, about 0.01wt.% to about 4wt.%, about 0.01wt.% to About 3wt.%, about 0.01wt.% - about 2wt.%, about 0.01wt.% - about 1wt.%; 0.05wt.% - about 3wt.%, about 0.05wt.% - about 2wt.%, about 0.05 wt.% - about 1wt.%; about 0.1wt.% - about 5wt.%, about 0.1wt.% - about 4wt.%, about 0.1wt.% - about 3wt.%, about 0.1wt.% - about 2wt.% .%, about 0.1wt.% - about 1wt.%; about 0.2wt.% - about 5wt.%, about 0.2wt.% - about 4wt.%, about 0.2wt.% - about 3wt.%, about 0.2wt.% .%-about 2wt.%, about 0.2wt.%-about 1wt.%; about 0.3wt.%-about 5wt.%, about 0.3wt.%-about 4wt.%, about 0.3wt.%-about 3wt.% %, about 0.3 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, or about 0.3 wt.% to about 1 wt.% (including ranges and subranges thereof). In addition, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the amount of the thickener can be 0.1wt.%, 0.2wt.%, 0.3wt.%, 0.4wt.%, 0.5wt.%, 0.6wt.%, 0.7wt. %, 0.8 wt.%, 0.9 wt.%, 1.0 wt.% or 1.5 wt.% to 2 wt.%, 3 wt.%, 4 wt.% or 5 wt.% (including each range and its subranges).
许多增稠剂是水溶性的,并且在本发明的化妆品组合物分散/溶解于水中时增加水的粘度或形成水凝胶。如果有必要,可将水溶液加热和冷却、或中和,用于形成凝胶。可将除聚丙烯酸钠以外的增稠剂分散/溶解于可溶于水中的水性溶剂(例如乙醇,当其分散/溶解在水中时)中。Many thickeners are water-soluble and increase the viscosity of water or form a hydrogel when the cosmetic composition of the present invention is dispersed/dissolved in water. The aqueous solution may be heated and cooled, or neutralized, for gel formation, if necessary. Thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate may be dispersed/dissolved in an aqueous solvent soluble in water (for example, ethanol when dispersed/dissolved in water).
增稠剂可称作“增稠剂”或“粘度调节剂”。通常包括增稠剂来增加组合物的粘度。然而,在一些情况中,某些增稠剂为组合物提供另外的出人意料的益处。增稠剂的非限制性实例包括聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物(除聚丙烯酸钠以外)或交联聚丙烯酸酯聚合物(除交联聚丙烯酸钠以外)、阳离子丙烯酸酯共聚物、阴离子丙烯酸类聚合物或羧酸聚合物、聚丙烯酰胺聚合物、多糖(例如纤维素衍生物)、胶、聚季铵盐、乙烯基吡咯烷酮均聚物/共聚物、C8-24羟基取代的脂族酸、C8-24共轭脂族酸、糖脂肪酯、聚甘油酯、及其混合物。除聚丙烯酸钠以外的合适的增稠剂可在美国专利申请第16/731,654号(将该申请以其整体并入本文,用于所有目的)中找到。Thickeners may be referred to as "thickeners" or "viscosity modifiers". Thickeners are usually included to increase the viscosity of the composition. In some cases, however, certain thickeners provide additional unexpected benefits to the composition. Non-limiting examples of thickeners include polyacrylate crosslinked polymers (other than sodium polyacrylate) or crosslinked polyacrylate polymers (other than crosslinked sodium polyacrylate), cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic polymers or carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides (e.g. cellulose derivatives), gums, polyquaternium salts, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers/copolymers, C8-24 hydroxyl substituted aliphatic acids, C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acids, sugar fatty esters, polyglycerol esters, and mixtures thereof. Suitable thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate can be found in US Patent Application Serial No. 16/731,654 (which application is hereby incorporated in its entirety for all purposes).
除聚丙烯酸钠以外的增稠剂可选自黄原胶、瓜尔胶、生物糖胶、纤维素、阿拉伯胶树胶(acacia Seneca gum)、小核菌胶、琼脂糖、果胶、结冷胶、透明质酸。另外,除聚丙烯酸钠以外的增稠剂可包括选自以下的聚合物增稠剂:聚丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸铵、丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、丙烯酸酯共聚物、聚丙烯酰胺、卡波姆和丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯交联聚合物。Thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate may be selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, biosugar gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotinia, agarose, pectin, gellan gum , Hyaluronic Acid. Additionally, thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate may include polymeric thickeners selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, acrylates Copolymers, polyacrylamides, carbomers and acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers.
可提及的特别类型的增稠剂包括以下增稠剂:Particular types of thickeners that may be mentioned include the following thickeners:
基于羧酸或羧酸酯的均聚物或共聚物,其可以是线形或交联的:Homopolymers or copolymers based on carboxylic acids or carboxylates, which may be linear or crosslinked:
这些聚合物含有一种或更多种衍生自丙烯酸、取代的丙烯酸、以及这些丙烯酸(丙烯酸酯)和取代的丙烯酸的盐和酯的单体。市售可得的聚合物包括以商品名CARBOPOL、ACRYSOL、POLYGEL、SOKALAN、CARBOPOL ULTREZ和POLYGEL销售的那些。市售可得的羧酸聚合物的实例包括卡波姆,其为用蔗糖或季戊四醇的烯丙基醚交联的丙烯酸的均聚物。卡波姆可作为来自B.F.Goodrich的CARBOPOL 900系列(例如CARBOPOL 954)获得。另外,其它合适的羧酸聚合物试剂包括ULTREZ 10(B.F.Goodrich)以及丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯与丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸、或它们的短链(即,C1-4醇)酯之一的一种或更多种单体的共聚物,其中交联剂是蔗糖或季戊四醇的烯丙基醚。这些共聚物被称为丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-C30烷基酯交联聚合物,并且作为CARBOPOL 1342、CARBOPOL 1382、PEMULEN TR-1、和PEMULEN TR-2从B.F.Goodrich市售可得。These polymers contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids (acrylates) and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available polymers include those sold under the tradenames CARBOPOL, ACRYSOL, POLYGEL, SOKALAN, CARBOPOL ULTREZ, and POLYGEL. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with sucrose or allyl ethers of pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available as CARBOPOL 900 series (eg CARBOPOL 954) from B.F. Goodrich. Additionally, other suitable carboxylic acid polymer reagents include ULTREZ 10 (B.F. Goodrich) and a combination of a C10-30 alkyl acrylate and one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their short chain (i.e., C1-4 alcohol) esters. A copolymer of one or more monomers, wherein the crosslinking agent is allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and are commercially available from B.F. Goodrich as CARBOPOL 1342, CARBOPOL 1382, PEMULEN TR-1, and PEMULEN TR-2.
其它合适的羧酸或羧酸酯聚合物试剂包括丙烯酸和丙烯酸C5-C10烷基酯的共聚物、丙烯酸和马来酸酐的共聚物、以及聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6。聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6可以已知为SEPIMAXZEN的原料从Seppic获得。Other suitable carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer agents include copolymers of acrylic acid and C5-C10 alkyl acrylates, copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic anhydride, and polyacrylate crosspolymer-6. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is available from Seppic under the material known as SEPIMAXZEN.
另一合适的羧酸或羧酸酯聚合物试剂包括丙烯酰胺基丙基三甲基氯化铵/丙烯酸酯共聚物,其为阳离子丙烯酸酯共聚物(或季铵化合物),可作为以SIMULQUAT HC 305的商品名已知的原料获得自Seppic。Another suitable carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer reagent includes acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymer, which is a cationic acrylate copolymer (or quaternary ammonium compound) available as SIMULQUAT HC The starting material known under the trade name of 305 was obtained from Seppic.
在某些实施方案中,本文中有用的羧酸或羧酸酯聚合物增稠剂是选自以下的那些:卡波姆、丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-C30烷基酯交联聚合物、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6、丙烯酰胺基丙基三甲基氯化铵/丙烯酸酯共聚物、及其混合物。In certain embodiments, carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer thickeners useful herein are those selected from the group consisting of carbomers, acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, polyacrylic acid Ester Crosspolymer-6, Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium Chloride/Acrylates Copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
聚季铵盐化合物polyquaternium compound
非限制性实例包括聚季铵盐-1、聚季铵盐-2、聚季铵盐-3、聚季铵盐-4、聚季铵盐-5、聚季铵盐-6、聚季铵盐-7、聚季铵盐-8、聚季铵盐-9、聚季铵盐-10、聚季铵盐-11、聚季铵盐-12、聚季铵盐-13、聚季铵盐-14、聚季铵盐-15、聚季铵盐-16、聚季铵盐-17、聚季铵盐-18、聚季铵盐-19、聚季铵盐-20、聚季铵盐-21、聚季铵盐-22、聚季铵盐-23、聚季铵盐-24、聚季铵盐-25、聚季铵盐-26、聚季铵盐-27、聚季铵盐-28、聚季铵盐-29、聚季铵盐-30、聚季铵盐-40、聚季铵盐-41、聚季铵盐-42、聚季铵盐-43、聚季铵盐-44、聚季铵盐-45、聚季铵盐-46、聚季铵盐-47、聚季铵盐-48、聚季铵盐-49、聚季铵盐-50、聚季铵盐-51、聚季铵盐-52、聚季铵盐-53、聚季铵盐-54、聚季铵盐-55、聚季铵盐-56、聚季铵盐-57、聚季铵盐-58、聚季铵盐-59、聚季铵盐-60、聚季铵盐-61、聚季铵盐-62、聚季铵盐-63、聚季铵盐-64、聚季铵盐-65、聚季铵盐-66、聚季铵盐-67等。在一些情况中,优选的聚季铵盐化合物包括聚季铵盐-10、聚季铵盐-11、聚季铵盐-67、及其混合物。在一些情况中,化妆品组合物包括聚季铵盐-10、聚季铵盐-11、聚季铵盐-67、或其混合物。Non-limiting examples include Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-3, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium Salt-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium -14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium- 21. Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-23, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-25, Polyquaternium-26, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28 , Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-40, Polyquaternium-41, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-51, Polyquaternium Quaternium-52, Polyquaternium-53, Polyquaternium-54, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57, Polyquaternium-58, Polyquaternium Ammonium-59, Polyquaternium-60, Polyquaternium-61, Polyquaternium-62, Polyquaternium-63, Polyquaternium-64, Polyquaternium-65, Polyquaternium Salt-66, polyquaternium-67, etc. In some cases, preferred polyquaternium compounds include polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, or mixtures thereof.
纤维素Cellulose
纤维素的非限制性实例包括纤维素、羧甲基羟乙基纤维素、乙酸丙酸羧酸纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、羟乙基乙基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、羟丙基甲基纤维素、甲基羟乙基纤维素、微晶纤维素、纤维素硫酸钠、及其混合物。在一些情况中,纤维素选自水溶性纤维素衍生物(例如羧甲基纤维素、甲基纤维素、甲基羟丙基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、纤维素硫酸钠盐)。此外,在一些情况中,纤维素优选为羟丙基纤维素(HPC)。在一些情况中,化妆品组合物包括一种或更多种纤维素增稠剂(例如微晶纤维素、羧甲基纤维素、羟甲基纤维素和羟丙基纤维素)。Non-limiting examples of cellulose include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose Methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cellulose is selected from water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, cellulose sodium sulfate). Furthermore, in some cases the cellulose is preferably hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC). In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes one or more cellulosic thickeners (eg, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcellulose).
聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮(PVP)和共聚物Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and Copolymers
非限制性实例包括聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮(PVP)、聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮((PVP)/乙酸乙烯酯共聚物(PVP/VA共聚物)、聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮(PVP)/二十碳烯共聚物、PVP/十六碳烯共聚物等。市售可得的聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮包括可获得自BASF的LUVISKOL K30、K85、K90。市售可得的乙烯基吡咯烷酮和乙酸乙烯酯的共聚物包括可获得自BASF的LUVISKOL VA37、VA64;乙烯基吡咯烷酮、甲基丙烯酰胺和乙烯基咪唑的共聚物(INCI:VP/甲基丙烯酰胺/乙烯基咪唑共聚物)作为LUVISET市售可得自BASF。在一些情况中,优选PVP和PVP/VA共聚物。Non-limiting examples include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinylpyrrolidone ((PVP)/vinyl acetate copolymer (PVP/VA copolymer), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)/eicosene copolymer, PVP/hexadecene copolymers, etc. Commercially available polyvinylpyrrolidones include LUVISKOL K30, K85, K90 available from BASF. Commercially available copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate include those available from LUVISKOL VA37, VA64 from BASF; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole (INCI: VP/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole copolymer) are commercially available from BASF as LUVISET. In some In this case, PVP and PVP/VA copolymers are preferred.
蔗糖酯Sucrose esters
非限制性实例包括蔗糖棕榈酸酯、蔗糖椰油酸酯、蔗糖单辛酸酯、蔗糖单癸酸酯、蔗糖单月桂酸酯或蔗糖二月桂酸酯、蔗糖单肉豆蔻酸酯、蔗糖单棕榈酸酯或蔗糖二棕榈酸酯、蔗糖单硬脂酸酯和蔗糖二硬脂酸酯、蔗糖单油酸酯、蔗糖二油酸酯或蔗糖三油酸酯、蔗糖单亚油酸酯或蔗糖二亚油酸酯、蔗糖五油酸酯、蔗糖六油酸酯、蔗糖七油酸酯或蔗糖八油酸酯、及其混合酯(例如蔗糖棕榈酸酯/蔗糖硬脂酸酯)、及其混合物。Non-limiting examples include sucrose palmitate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monocaprylate, sucrose monocaprate, sucrose monolaurate or sucrose dilaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose monopalmitate sucrose dipalmitate, sucrose monostearate and sucrose distearate, sucrose monooleate, sucrose dioleate or sucrose trioleate, sucrose monolinoleate or sucrose dioleate Linoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate or sucrose octaoleate, mixed esters thereof (e.g. sucrose palmitate/sucrose stearate), and mixtures thereof .
聚甘油酯Polyglycerides
非限制性的脂肪酸的聚甘油酯(聚甘油酯)包括具有下式的那些:Non-limiting polyglycerol esters (polyglycerol esters) of fatty acids include those having the formula:
其中n是2-20或2-10或2-5,或者是2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9或10,且R1、R2和R3各自可独立为脂肪酸部分或氢,条件是,R1、R2和R3至少之一是脂肪酸部分。例如R1、R2和R3可以是饱和或不饱和的、直链或支链的,并且具有C1-C40、C1-C30、C1-C25、或C1-C20、C1-C16或C1-C10的长度。另外,非离子型脂肪酸的聚甘油酯的非限制性实例包括聚甘油-4辛酸酯/癸酸酯、聚甘油-10辛酸酯/癸酸酯、聚甘油-4癸酸酯、聚甘油-10癸酸酯、聚甘油-4月桂酸酯、聚甘油-5月桂酸酯、聚甘油-6月桂酸酯、聚甘油-10月桂酸酯、聚甘油-10椰油酸酯、聚甘油-10肉豆蔻酸酯、聚甘油-10油酸酯、聚甘油-10硬脂酸酯、及其混合物。Wherein n is 2-20 or 2-10 or 2-5, or is 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and each of R 1 , R 2 and R 3 can independently be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, with the proviso that at least one of R 1 , R 2 and R 3 is a fatty acid moiety. For example R 1 , R 2 and R 3 can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have C 1 -C 40 , C 1 -C 30 , C 1 -C 25 , or C 1 -C 20 , C 1 -C 16 or C 1 -C 10 length. Additionally, non-limiting examples of polyglyceryl esters of nonionic fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl -10 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, and mixtures thereof.
C8-24羟基取代的脂族酸和C8-24共轭脂族酸C8-24 hydroxyl substituted aliphatic acids and C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acids
非限制性实例包括共轭亚油酸、顺式-十八碳四烯酸、反式-7-十八碳烯酸、顺式-5,8,11,14,17-二十碳五烯酸、顺式-4,7,10,13,16,19-二十二碳六烯酸、哥伦比亚酸、反亚麻油酸、反蓖麻酸(ricinolaidic acid)、十八碳四烯酸、2-羟基硬脂酸、α-亚麻酸、花生四烯酸、顺式-11,14-二十碳二烯酸、反亚油酸、单岩芹酸、岩芹酸、蓖麻油酸、反式-异油酸、顺式-11,14,17-二十碳三烯酸、顺式-5-二十碳烯酸、顺式-8,11,14-二十碳三烯酸、十六碳三烯酸、棕榈油酸、反式岩芹酸、反式-金合欢醇、顺式-13,16-二十二碳二烯酸、顺式-异油酸、顺式-11-二十碳烯酸、顺式-13,16,19-二十二碳三烯酸、顺式-13-十八碳烯酸、顺式-15-十八烷酸、顺式-7,10,13,16-二十二碳四烯酸、反油酸、γ-亚麻酸、香叶酸、香叶基香叶酸(geranyl geranoic acid)、亚油酸、油酸、松油酸、反式-13-十八碳烯酸。更优选地,脂族酸包括12-羟基硬脂酸、共轭亚油酸、或其混合物。Non-limiting examples include conjugated linoleic acid, cis-stearatetraenoic acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis-5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaene acid, cis-4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid, columbian acid, elandoleic acid, ricinoleic acid, stearidonic acid, 2 -Hydroxystearic acid, α-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11,14-eicosadienoic acid, elaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, trans -Vericoleic acid, cis-11,14,17-eicosatrienoic acid, cis-5-eicosatrienoic acid, cis-8,11,14-eicosatrienoic acid, hexadecyl Carbatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, trans petroselinic acid, trans-farnesol, cis-13,16-docosadienoic acid, cis-isooleic acid, cis-11-dienoic acid Decenoic acid, cis-13,16,19-docosatrienoic acid, cis-13-octadecenoic acid, cis-15-octadecanoic acid, cis-7,10, 13,16-Docosatetraenoic acid, elaidic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, geranic acid, geranyl geranoic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, pinolenic acid, trans-13 - octadecenoic acid. More preferably, the aliphatic acid includes 12-hydroxystearic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, or mixtures thereof.
胶glue
胶的非限制性实例包括阿拉伯胶、黄蓍胶、刺梧桐胶、瓜尔胶、结冷胶、塔拉胶、刺槐豆胶、罗望子胶、黄原胶、刺槐豆胶、阿拉伯胶(Seneca gum)、小核菌胶等。Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, tragacanth, karaya, guar, gellan, tara, locust bean, tamarind, xanthan, locust bean, acacia (Seneca gum), Sclerotinia gum, etc.
皮肤活性剂skin active agent
化妆品组合物可任选包括一种或更多种皮肤活性剂,例如抗衰老剂、抗皱纹活性剂、抗氧化剂、保湿剂、湿润成分、脱色剂和/或处理油性皮肤的试剂等。基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,皮肤活性剂可按范围为大于0-约10wt.%的量包括在该组合物中。例如,基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,皮肤活性剂的总量可以是大于0-约9wt.%、大于0-约8wt.%、大于0-约7wt.%、大于0-约6wt.%、大于0-约5wt.%、大于0-约4wt.%、大于0-约3wt.%、大于0-约2wt.%;约10ppm-约10wt.%(100,000ppm)、约10ppm-约5wt.%(50,000ppm)、约10ppm-约2.5wt.%(25,000ppm)、约10ppm-约1wt.%(10,000ppm)、约10ppm-约0.5wt.%(5,000ppm)、约10ppm-约0.3wt.%(3,000ppm)、约10ppm-约0.2wt.%(2,000ppm)、约10ppm-约0.1wt.%(1,000ppm)、约10ppm-500ppm;约0.05-约10wt.%、约0.05-约5wt.%、约0.05-约2.5wt.%、约0.05-约1wt.%、约0.05-约0.5wt.%;约0.1-约10wt.%、约0.1-约5wt.%、约0.1-约2.5wt.%、约0.1-约1wt.%、约0.1-约0.5wt.%;约1-约10wt.%、约1-约8wt.%、约1-约6wt.%、约1-约5wt.%、约1-约4wt.%、约1-约3wt.%;约2-约10wt.%、约2-约8wt.%、约2-约6wt.%、约2-约5wt.%、约2-约4wt.%;约3-约10wt.%、约3-约8wt.%、约3-约6wt.%、约3-约5wt.%;约4-约10wt.%、约4-约8wt.%、约4-约6wt.%(包括各范围以及其间的子范围)。Cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more skin active agents, such as anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle actives, antioxidants, moisturizers, moisturizing ingredients, depigmenting agents, and/or agents to treat oily skin, and the like. The skin active agent may be included in the composition in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the total amount of skin active agents can be greater than 0 to about 9 wt.%, greater than 0 to about 8 wt.%, greater than 0 to about 7 wt.%, greater than 0 to about 6 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition , greater than 0-about 5wt.%, greater than 0-about 4wt.%, greater than 0-about 3wt.%, greater than 0-about 2wt.%; about 10ppm-about 10wt.% (100,000ppm), about 10ppm-about 5wt .% (50,000ppm), about 10ppm-about 2.5wt.% (25,000ppm), about 10ppm-about 1wt.% (10,000ppm), about 10ppm-about 0.5wt.% (5,000ppm), about 10ppm-about 0.3 wt.% (3,000ppm), about 10ppm-about 0.2wt.% (2,000ppm), about 10ppm-about 0.1wt.% (1,000ppm), about 10ppm-500ppm; about 0.05-about 10wt.%, about 0.05- About 5wt.%, about 0.05-about 2.5wt.%, about 0.05-about 1wt.%, about 0.05-about 0.5wt.%; about 0.1-about 10wt.%, about 0.1-about 5wt.%, about 0.1- About 2.5wt.%, about 0.1-about 1wt.%, about 0.1-about 0.5wt.%; about 1-about 10wt.%, about 1-about 8wt.%, about 1-about 6wt.%, about 1- About 5wt.%, about 1-about 4wt.%, about 1-about 3wt.%; about 2-about 10wt.%, about 2-about 8wt.%, about 2-about 6wt.%, about 2-about 5wt.% .%, about 2-about 4wt.%; about 3-about 10wt.%, about 3-about 8wt.%, about 3-about 6wt.%, about 3-about 5wt.%; about 4-about 10wt.% , about 4 to about 8 wt.%, about 4 to about 6 wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
下文提供在一些情况中可包括在化妆品组合物中的皮肤活性剂的非限制性讨论:The following provides a non-limiting discussion of skin active agents that may be included in cosmetic compositions in some cases:
保湿剂和/或湿润成分humectants and/or humectants
保湿剂和/或湿润成分的实例包括甘油及其衍生物;尿素及其衍生物,尤其由National Starch销售的Hydrovance;乳酸;透明质酸;AHA;BHA;吡酮酸钠;木糖醇;丝氨酸;乳酸钠;依克多因及其衍生物;壳聚糖及其衍生物;胶原;浮游生物;由Sederma以名称Moist24销售的白茅(Imperata cylindra)提取物;作为NOF公司的Lipidure-HM的丙烯酸均聚物;β-葡聚糖,且特别是羧甲基β-葡聚糖钠(Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry);由Nestle以名称NutraLipids销售的西番莲油、杏油、玉米油和米糠油的混合物;C-糖苷衍生物,特别是C-13-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷,其呈活性材料在水/丙二醇混合物(60/40wt%)中的30重量%溶液形式,作为由Chimex公司以商品名"Mexoryl SBB"生产的产品;由Nestle销售的玫瑰果油;由Vincience以名称Algualane Zinc销售的富含锌的微藻提取物紫球藻(Prophyridium cruentum);由Engelhard Lyon公司以名称Marine Filling Spheres销售的海洋来源的胶原和硫酸软骨素球体(缺端胶原(Atelocollagen));透明质酸球体,例如由Engelhard Lyon销售的那些;以及精氨酸。Examples of humectants and/or humectants include glycerin and its derivatives; urea and its derivatives, especially Hydrovance sold by National Starch; lactic acid; hyaluronic acid; AHA; BHA; ; sodium lactate; ectoine and its derivatives; chitosan and its derivatives; collagen; plankton; Imperata cylindra extract sold under the name Moist24 by Sederma; Beta-glucans, and especially sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan (Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry); Passiflora oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold under the name NutraLipids by Nestle Mixtures; C-glycoside derivatives, in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, in the form of a 30% by weight solution of the active material in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), as A product produced under the trade name "Mexoryl SBB" by the company Chimex; rosehip oil sold by Nestle; a zinc-rich microalgae extract Prophyridium cruentum sold under the name Algualane Zinc by Vincience; sold by the company Engelhard Lyon Collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres of marine origin sold under the name Marine Filling Spheres (Atelocollagen); hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.
脱色剂decolorizer
可并入化妆品组合物中的脱色剂包括选自以下的那些:α熊果苷和β熊果苷;阿魏酸;lucinol及其衍生物;曲酸;间苯二酚及其衍生物;氨甲环酸及其衍生物;龙胆酸;高龙胆酸(homogentisic);龙胆酸甲酯或高龙胆酸甲酯;二酸(dioic acid);D泛酰巯基乙胺磺酸钙(D pantheteine calcium sulphonate);硫辛酸;鞣花酸;维生素B3;亚油酸及其衍生物;得自诸如春黄菊、熊果、芦荟科(芦荟、好望角芦荟、库拉索芦荟)、桑葚、黄芩(skullcap)之类的植物的某些化合物;由Gattefosse销售的奇异果(kiwi fruit)(中华猕猴桃(Actinidia chinensis))水;牡丹(Paeonia suffruticosa)根的提取物,例如由IchimaruPharcos以名称Liquid Botanpi Be销售的那种;红糖(甘蔗(Saccharum officinarum))的提取物,例如由Taiyo Kagaku以名称Liquid Molasses销售的糖蜜提取物,该清单并非穷举的。特别的脱色剂包括α熊果苷和β熊果苷;阿魏酸;曲酸;间苯二酚及衍生物;D泛酰巯基乙胺磺酸钙;硫辛酸;鞣花酸;维生素B3;由Gattefosse销售的奇异果(中华猕猴桃(Actinidiachinensis))水;牡丹(Paeonia suffruticosa)根的提取物,例如由Ichimaru Pharcos公司以名称Botanpi Liquid B销售的那种。Depigmenting agents that may be incorporated into cosmetic compositions include those selected from the group consisting of alpha arbutin and beta arbutin; ferulic acid; lucinol and its derivatives; kojic acid; resorcinol and its derivatives; Toxic acid and its derivatives; gentisic acid; homogentisic acid; methyl gentisate or homogentisic acid methyl ester; dioic acid; calcium D pantetheine sulfonate ( D pantheteine calcium sulphonate); lipoic acid; ellagic acid; vitamin B3; linoleic acid and its derivatives; obtained from sources such as chamomile, bearberry, aloe family (aloe vera, aloe vera, aloe vera), mulberry, skullcap Certain compounds of plants such as (skullcap); kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) water marketed by Gattefosse; extracts of roots of peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), e.g. by IchimaruPharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be Of the kind marketed; extracts of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum), such as molasses extracts marketed under the name Liquid Molasses by Taiyo Kagaku, this list is not exhaustive. Specific depigmenting agents include alpha arbutin and beta arbutin; ferulic acid; kojic acid; resorcinol and its derivatives; calcium D-pantetheinate; lipoic acid; ellagic acid; vitamin B3; Kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) water sold by Gattefosse; extract of peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) root, such as that sold under the name Botanpi Liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos.
抗皱纹活性剂Anti-Wrinkle Actives
化妆品组合物可包括一种或更多种抗皱纹活性剂。术语“抗皱纹活性剂”指天然化合物或合成化合物,当其与起皱纹的皮肤区域接触时产生生物效应,例如某些酶的合成和/或活性增加,这具有减少皱纹和/或细纹出现的效果。示例性的抗皱纹活性剂可选自:脱皮剂、抗糖化剂、NO合酶的抑制剂、刺激真皮或表皮大分子的合成且/或防止其降解的试剂、用于刺激成纤维细胞和/或角化细胞增殖的试剂或用于刺激角化细胞分化还原剂(reducingagent)的试剂、肌肉松弛剂和/或皮肤松弛剂(dermo-decontracting agent)、抗自由基剂、及其混合物。此类化合物的实例为:腺苷及其衍生物和类视色素(例如视黄醇棕榈酸酯和视黄醇);抗坏血酸及其衍生物,例如抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁和抗坏血酸葡糖苷;烟酸及其前体,例如烟酰胺;泛醌;谷胱甘肽及其前体,例如L-2-氧代噻唑烷-4-羧酸;如特别在EP-1345919中描述的化合物C-糖苷及其衍生物,如特别在EP-1345919中描述的C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷;植物提取物,包括海茴香和橄榄叶的提取物;以及植物及其水解产物,例如稻米蛋白水解产物或大豆蛋白;藻类提取物,且特别是海带属(luminaria)(提取物);细菌提取物;皂苷配基,例如薯蓣皂苷配基和薯蓣属(Dioscorea)植物(特别是野生山药)的提取物,其包含:a-羟基酸;f3-羟基酸;例如水杨酸和正辛酰基-5-水杨酸寡肽和假二肽、及其酰基衍生物,特别是酸{2-[乙酰基-(3-三氟甲基-苯基)-氨基]-3-甲基-}乙酸和脂肽(由SEDERMA公司以商品名Matrixyl 500和Matrixyl 3000销售);番茄红素;锰盐和镁盐(特别是葡糖酸盐);及其混合物。在至少一种情况中,化妆品组合物包括腺苷衍生物,例如腺苷的非磷酸盐衍生物,例如特别是2'-脱氧腺苷、2',3'-异亚丙基腺苷;丰加霉素、1-甲基腺苷、N-6-甲基腺苷;腺苷N-氧化物、6-甲基巯基嘌呤核苷和6-氯嘌呤核苷。其它衍生物包括腺苷受体激动剂,例如苯基异丙基腺苷("PIA")、1-甲基异鸟苷、N6-环己基腺苷(CHA)、N6-环戊基腺苷(CPA)、2-氯-N6-环戊基腺苷、2-氯腺苷、N6-苯基腺苷、2-苯基氨基腺苷、MECA、N 6-苯乙基腺苷、2-对-(2-羧基-乙基)苯乙基-氨基-5'-N-乙基甲酰胺基腺苷(CGS-21680)、N-乙基甲酰胺基-腺苷(NECA)、5'(N-环丙基)-甲酰胺基腺苷、DPMA(PD 129.944)和腺苷地尔。Cosmetic compositions may include one or more anti-wrinkle actives. The term "anti-wrinkle active agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound which, when in contact with a wrinkled area of skin, produces a biological effect, such as an increase in the synthesis and/or activity of certain enzymes, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines Effect. Exemplary anti-wrinkle active agents may be selected from: peeling agents, anti-glycation agents, inhibitors of NO synthase, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or prevent their degradation, for stimulating fibroblasts and/or Or an agent for keratinocyte proliferation or a reducing agent for stimulating keratinocyte differentiation, a muscle relaxant and/or a dermo-decontracting agent, an anti-free radical agent, and a mixture thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids (such as retinyl palmitate and retinol); ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; niacin and Its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; compounds C-glycosides and its Derivatives, such as C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane as described inter alia in EP-1345919; plant extracts, including extracts of sea fennel and olive leaves; and plants and their hydrolysates, such as Rice protein hydrolyzate or soybean protein; Algal extracts, and especially Laminaria (extracts); Bacterial extracts; Saponins, such as diosgenin and plants of the genus Dioscorea (especially wild yam ) containing: a-hydroxy acids; f3-hydroxy acids; such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides, and their acyl derivatives, especially the acid {2- [Acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl-}acetic acid and lipopeptides (sold under the trade names Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000 by the company SEDERMA); lycopene; manganese salts and magnesium salts (especially gluconate); and mixtures thereof. In at least one case, the cosmetic composition comprises an adenosine derivative, such as a non-phosphate derivative of adenosine, such as in particular 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-isopropylideneadenosine; Adderamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine nucleoside, and 6-chloropurine nucleoside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyladenosine ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N 6-phenylethyladenosine, 2- p-(2-Carboxy-ethyl)phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5' (N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and adenosyldil.
用于油性皮肤的皮肤活性剂Dermoactive Agents for Oily Skin
化妆品组合物可任选包括致力于油性皮肤的皮肤活性剂。这些试剂可以是能够调节皮脂腺活性的皮脂调节剂或抗皮脂溢剂。致力于油性皮肤的示例性皮肤活性剂包括:视黄酸、视黄醇、过氧化苯甲酰、硫磺、维生素B6(或吡哆醇)氯化物、硒、海蓬子--肉桂提取物共混物、茶叶和辛酰甘氨酸,例如--来自Seppic的15 Sepicontrol A5 TEA;肉桂、肌氨酸和辛酰甘氨酸的混合物--特别是由Seppic以商品名Sepicontrol A5销售;--锌盐,例如葡糖酸锌、吡咯烷酮羧酸锌(或吡酮酸锌)、乳酸锌、天冬氨酸锌、羧酸锌、水杨酸锌20、磺基丙氨酸锌(zinc cysteate);--衍生物,特别是铜和吡酮酸铜,作为Cuivridone Solabia;--来自以下植物的提取物:山金车(Arnica montana)、鸡纳树(Cinchona succirubra)、丁香(Eugenia caryophyllata)、啤酒花(Humulus lupulus)、贯叶金丝桃(Hypericumperforatum)、辣薄荷(Mentha pipenta)25、迷迭香(Rosmarinus officinalis)、鼠尾草(Salvia officinalis)和百里香(Thymus vulgaris),全部例如由Maruzen销售;--绣线菊(榆绣线菊(Spiraea ulmaria))的提取物,例如由Silab以名称Sebonormine销售的那种;--藻类糖海带(Laminaria saccharina)的提取物,例如由Biotechmarine以30名称Phlorogine销售的那种;--地榆混合物(地榆(Sanguisorba officinalis)/长穗地榆(Poterium officinale))的根提取物、姜(Zingiber officinalis)的根茎和肉桂(Cinnamomum cassia)树皮(的提取物),例如由Solabia以名称Sebustop销售的那种;--亚麻籽的提取物,例如由Lucas Meyer以名称Linumine销售的那种;--黄柏(Phellodendron)提取物,例如由Maruzen以名称Phellodendron extract BG或由Ichimaru Pharcos以名称Oubaku liquid B销售的那些;--摩洛哥坚果油、锯叶棕(Serenoa serrulata)(锯棕榈(sawpalmetto))提取物和芝麻籽提取物的混合物,例如由Pentapharm以名称Regu SEB销售的那种;--柳兰、诃子(Terminalia chebula)、旱金莲和生物可利用锌(微藻)的提取物的混合物,例如以名称Seborilys Green Tech销售的那种;--非洲臀果木(Pygeum afrianum)的提取物,例如由Euromed以名称Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract销售的那种;--锯叶棕(Serenoa serrulata)的提取物,例如由Actives International以名称ViapureSabal销售的那些、以及由Euromed公司销售的那些;--车前草共混物的提取物、冬青叶小檗(Berberis aquifolium)的提取物和水杨酸钠20,例如以名称Seboclear Rahn销售的那种;--丁香提取物,如由Maruzen以名称Clove extract powder销售的那种;--摩洛哥坚果油,例如以名称Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques销售的那种;25--乳蛋白滤液(lactic protein filtrates),例如由Sederma以名称Normaseb销售的那种;--海藻海带属提取物,例如由Biotechmarine以名称Laminarghane销售的那种;--低聚糖海藻掌状海带(Laminaria digitata),例如由Codif公司以名称Phycosaccharide 30AC销售的那种;--甘蔗的提取物,例如由Sabinsa公司以名称Policosanol销售的那种;磺化页岩油,例如由Ichthyol以名称Ichtyol Pale销售的那种;--绣线菊(榆绣线菊(Spiraea ulmaria))的提取物,例如由societeLibiol以名称Cytobiol Ulmaire销售的那种;--癸二酸,特别是由Sederma以名称Sebosoft以聚丙烯酸钠凝胶形式销售;--提取自魔芋块茎并用烷基磺酸酯链改性的葡甘露聚糖,例如由Arch Chemical以名称Biopol Beta销售的那种;--苦参(Sophora angustifolia)的提取物,例如由Bioland以名称Sophorapowder或Sophoraextract销售的那些;--鸡纳树树皮的提取物,例如由Alban Muller以名称Red Bark HS销售的那种;-皂树(Quillaja saponaria)的提取物,例如由Alban Muller以名称15Panamawood HS销售的那种;--接枝到十一碳烯链上的甘氨酸,例如由SEPPIC以名称Lipacide UGOR销售的那种;--齐墩果酸和去甲二氢愈创木酸的混合物,例如由Sederma以名称AC.Net以凝胶形式销售的那种;20--苯二甲酰亚氨基过氧己酸;--柠檬酸三(C12-C13)酯,由Sasol以名称COSMACOL.RTM.ECI销售;柠檬酸三(C14-C15)烷基酯,由Sasol以名称COSMACOL.RTM.ECL销售;--10-羟基癸酸,包括混合物羟基癸酸October 25、癸二酸和1,10-癸二醇,例如由Vincience以名称Acnacidol BG销售的那种;及其混合物。Cosmetic compositions may optionally include skin active agents for oily skin. These agents may be sebum-regulating or anti-seborrhea agents capable of modulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. Exemplary skin actives for oily skin include: retinoic acid, retinol, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine) chloride, selenium, salicornia-cinnamon extract co- Mixtures, tea leaves and caprylglycine, eg - 15 Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; mixtures of cinnamon, sarcosine and caprylglycine - especially sold under the trade name Sepicontrol A5 by Seppic; - zinc salts, eg Zinc Gluconate, Zinc Pyrrolidone Carboxylate (or Zinc Piruvate), Zinc Lactate, Zinc Aspartate, Zinc Carboxylate, Zinc Salicylate 20, Zinc Cysteate; --Derivative substances, especially copper and copper pyruvate, as Cuivridone Solabia; -- extracts from the following plants: Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Clove (Eugenia caryophyllata), Hops (Humulus lupulus ), Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum), peppermint (Mentha pipenta)25, rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis) and thymus (Thymus vulgaris), all sold for example by Maruzen; -- Spiraea (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab; - an extract of Laminaria saccharina, such as that sold under the name Phlorogine 30 by Biotechmarine; - root extract of burnet mixture (Sanguisorba officinalis/Poterium officinale), rhizome of ginger (Zingiber officinalis) and bark of cinnamon (Cinnamomum cassia) e.g. - that sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia; - an extract of linseed, such as that sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer; - an extract of Phellodendron, such as by Maruzen under the name Phellodendron extract BG or by Ichimaru Pharcos Those marketed under the name Oubaku liquid B; - a mixture of argan oil, Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and sesame seed extract, such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm ;--a mixture of extracts of willow lily, Terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech;--Pygeum afrianum Extracts of Saw palmetto (Serenoa serrulata), such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by the company Euromed ;--extract of plantain blend, extract of Berberis aquifolium (Berberis aquifolium) and sodium salicylate 20, such as that sold under the name Seboclear Rahn;--extract of clove, such as that sold by Maruzen under the name - the kind sold by Clove extract powder; -- Argan oil, such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques; 25 -- milk protein filtrates (lactic protein filtrates), such as that sold by Sederma under the name Normaseb; -- Seaweed Laminaria extract, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine; - the oligosaccharide seaweed Laminaria digitata, such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide 30AC by the company Codif; - an extract of sugar cane , such as that sold under the name Policosanol by the company Sabinsa; sulfonated shale oils, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by Ichthyol; - an extract of Spiraea (Spiraea ulmaria), Such as that sold by societeLibiol under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire; - sebacic acid, especially sold by Sederma under the name Sebosoft in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel; - extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkylsulfonate chains Glucomannan, such as that sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical; - extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophorapowder or Sophora extract by Bioland; Extract, such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller; - an extract of Quillaja saponaria, such as that sold under the name 15 Panamawood HS by Alban Muller; - grafted to undecene Glycine on the chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UGOR by SEPPIC; a mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in gel form by Sederma under the name AC.Net species; 20 -- phthalimidoperoxycaproic acid; -- tris(C12-C13) citrate, sold by Sasol under the name COSMACOL.RTM.ECI; tris(C14-C15) alkyl citrate , sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM.ECL by Sasol; -- 10-Hydroxydecanoic acid, including the mixture hydroxydecanoic acid October 25, sebacic acid and 1,10-decanediol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by Vinscience species; and mixtures thereof.
抗氧化剂Antioxidants
可使用维生素C和衍生物,包括抗坏血酸、抗坏血酸钠、和脂溶性酯抗坏血酸四己基癸酯和抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯、抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、葡糖胺抗坏血酸盐、抗坏血酸乙酸酯等。另外,也可以使用来自诸如卡姆果(Myrciaria dubia)、针叶樱桃(acerola)、余甘子(emblica officinalis)之类的含有大量维生素C的植物的提取物;以及来自玫瑰果和柑橘的生物类黄酮,包括水溶性生物类黄酮,例如橙皮苷甲基查耳酮。Vitamin C and derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate, and the like. In addition, extracts from plants rich in vitamin C such as camu camu (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, emblica officinalis; Flavonoids, including water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methylchalcone.
也可以添加芝麻(Sesamum indicum)或芝麻木酚素(lignan)。芝麻及其木酚素(与芝麻相关的纤维化合物)充当抗氧化剂。芝麻籽木酚素显著增强维生素E活性。Sesamum indicum or sesame lignans can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds related to sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhanced vitamin E activity.
其它抗氧化剂包括生育酚(例如d-α-生育酚、d-β-生育酚、d-γ-生育酚、d-δ-生育酚)、生育三烯酚(例如d-α-生育三烯酚、d-β-生育三烯酚、d-γ-生育三烯酚、d-δ-生育三烯酚)和维生素E(α-生育酚乙酸酯)。这些化合物可从天然来源分离、通过合成手段制备或其混合。可以通过分馏维生素E制品以去除一部分生育酚并回收更高度浓缩的生育三烯酚的制品而获得富含生育三烯酚的维生素E制品。有用的生育三烯酚是例如使用高效液相色谱法分离自小麦胚芽油、谷物油或棕榈油或通过醇提取和/或分子蒸馏分离自大麦、酒糟或燕麦的天然产品。如本文所用的术语“生育三烯酚”包括获自这些天然产品的富含生育三烯酚的级分以及纯化合物。提高的谷胱甘肽过氧化物酶活性保护皮肤免受氧化损害。Other antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g. d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g. d-alpha-tocotriene phenol, d-beta-tocotrienol, d-gamma-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol) and vitamin E (alpha-tocopheryl acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Tocotrienol-enriched vitamin E preparations can be obtained by fractionating the vitamin E preparation to remove a portion of the tocopherols and recover a more highly concentrated tocotrienol preparation. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, corn oil or palm oil using high performance liquid chromatography or from barley, distillers grains or oats by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation. The term "tocotrienol" as used herein includes tocotrienol-rich fractions as well as pure compounds obtained from these natural products. Increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects skin from oxidative damage.
另外,类胡萝卜素(特别是叶黄素类型)也是可使用的有用抗氧化剂。叶黄素型类胡萝卜素包括诸如叶黄素(lutein)、角黄素(canthaxantin)、隐黄质、玉米黄质和虾青素之类的分子。叶黄素类保护诸如维生素A、维生素E和其它类胡萝卜素之类的化合物。Additionally, carotenoids, especially the lutein type, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Lutein-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxantin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Luteinoids protect compounds such as vitamin A, vitamin E and other carotenoids.
类黄酮flavonoids
活性剂可以是选自类黄酮的抗氧化剂。在一些情况中,类黄酮是黄烷酮(2,3-二氢-2-苯基苯并吡喃-4-酮的衍生物)。黄酮包括:紫铆亭、圣草酚、橙皮素、橙皮苷、高圣草素、异樱花亭、柚皮素、柚皮苷、松属素、枸橘苷(poncirin)、樱花亭、樱花苷和7-O-甲基圣草酚(Sterubin)。类黄酮可以是二氢黄酮醇(3-羟基-2,3-二氢-2-苯基苯并吡喃-4-酮的衍生物)。黄烷醇包括:紫杉叶素、香橙素(Aromadedrin)、Chrysandroside A、ChrysandrosideB、Xeractinol、落新妇苷和黄颜木素。类黄酮可以是黄酮(2-苯基苯并吡喃-4-酮的衍生物)。黄酮包括:芹菜素、木犀草素、柑橘黄酮、白杨黄素、黄芩素、野黄芩素、汉黄芩素,合成黄酮:地奥司明和黄酮哌酯。类黄酮可以是黄酮醇(3-羟基-2-苯基苯并吡喃-4-酮的衍生物)。黄酮醇包括:3-羟基黄酮、杜鹃黄素、非瑟酮、高良姜素、棉黄素、山柰素、山柰酚、异鼠李素、桑色素、杨梅黄酮、柚皮黄素、藿香黄酮醇(Pachypodol)、槲皮素、鼠李秦素、鼠李素、杜鹃黄苷、金丝桃苷、异槲皮苷、山柰苷、杨梅苷、槲皮苷、刺槐素、芦丁、绣线菊苷、黄鼠李苷、去氢黄柏苷、淫羊藿苷和曲克芦丁。类黄酮可以是黄烷-3-醇(2-苯基-3,4-二氢-2H-苯并吡喃-3-醇的衍生物)。黄烷-3-醇包括:儿茶素、表儿茶素、表没食子儿茶素、表儿茶素没食子酸酯、表没食子儿茶素没食子酸酯、表阿夫儿茶精(Epiafzelechin)、非瑟酮醇(Fisetinidol)、喹色亭酚(Guibourtinidol)、Mesquitol和刺槐亭醇(Robinetinidol)。类黄酮可以是黄烷-4-醇(2-苯基苯并二氢吡喃-4-醇的衍生物)。黄烷-4-醇包括:Apiforol和Luteoforol。类黄酮可以是异黄酮(3-苯基苯并吡喃-4-酮的衍生物)。异黄酮包括:染料木黄酮、大豆苷元(Daidzein)、鹰嘴豆芽素A、芒柄花黄素和来自大豆苷元的雌马酚代谢物。The active agent may be an antioxidant selected from flavonoids. In some instances, the flavonoid is a flavanone (a derivative of 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavonoids include: erionthidrin, eriodiction, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeloutin, isosakuratin, naringenin, naringin, pinesin, poncirin, sakuratin, Saranin and 7-O-methyl eriodictyol (Sterubin). The flavonoid may be dihydroflavonol (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavanols include: Taxifolin, Aromadedrin, Chrysandroside A, Chrysandroside B, Xeractinol, Astilbin, and Ayrin. The flavonoids may be flavones (derivatives of 2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, citrus flavonoids, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin, and synthetic flavones: diosmin and flavoxate. The flavonoids may be flavonols (derivatives of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, rhododendron, fisetin, galangin, gossin, kaempferol, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, naringenin, ageratum Flavonol (Pachypodol), quercetin, rhamnatin, rhamnetin, rhododendron, hyperoside, isoquercitrin, kaempferin, myricitrin, quercetin, acacia, rutin, embroidered thread Inulin, reshamnetin, dehydrophellodendron, icariin, and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (a derivative of 2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, Fisetinol, Guibourtinidol, Mesquitol, and Robinetinidol. The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (a derivative of 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: Apiforol and Luteoforol. The flavonoids may be isoflavones (derivatives of 3-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin A, formononetin, and equol metabolites from daidzein.
抗氧化剂可以是花青素(2-苯基苯并吡喃鎓阳离子的衍生物)。花青素包括:橙苷色素(Aurantinidin)、矢车菊素、飞燕草素、欧花丹素(Europinidin)、木犀草定(Luteolinidin)、天竺葵色素(Pelargonidin)、锦葵色素(Malvidin)、芍药花青素(Peonidin)、牵牛花色素(Petunidin)、玫瑰色素(Rosinidin)和呫吨酮。Antioxidants may be anthocyanins (derivatives of 2-phenylbenzopyrylium cations). Anthocyanins include: Aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, Europinidin, Luteolinidin, Pelargonidin, Malvidin, Peonidin, Petunidin, Rosinidin and Xanthone.
抗氧化剂可以是二氢查耳酮(1,3-二苯基-1-丙酮的衍生物)。二氢查耳酮包括:根皮素、二氢查耳酮根皮素、根皮苷、阿斯巴汀(Aspalathin)、柚皮苷二氢查耳酮、新橙皮苷二氢查耳酮和Nothofagin。在不限制本发明的作用模式的情况下,二氢查耳酮可通过减少活性自由基(如活性氧物类和活性氮物类)发挥抗氧化效应。The antioxidant may be dihydrochalcone (a derivative of 1,3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: Phloretin, Dihydrochalcone Phloretin, Phloridin, Aspalathin, Naringin Dihydrochalcone, Neohesperidin Dihydrochalcone and Nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the present invention, dihydrochalcone can exert antioxidant effects by reducing active free radicals (such as active oxygen species and active nitrogen species).
抗氧化剂可以是花色素苷。花色素苷及其衍生物是抗氧化剂。花色素苷涵盖对许多果实、蔬菜、谷物和花朵的红色、紫色和蓝色负责的一类类黄酮化合物,其是天然存在的水溶性化合物。另外,花色素苷是胶原酶抑制剂。胶原酶的抑制有助于防止和减少由皮肤胶原的减少而造成的皱纹、增加皮肤弹性等。花色素苷可获自各种植物来源的任何部分,例如果实、花、茎、叶、根、树皮或种子。本领域技术人员将理解,该植物的某些部分可能含有较高天然水平的花色素苷,并且因此使用这些部分获得所需花色素苷。在一些情况下,抗氧化剂可包括一种或多种β-花青苷。β-花青苷(类似于花色素苷)可获自天然来源并且是抗氧化剂。The antioxidant may be anthocyanins. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds responsible for the red, purple and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains and flowers, which are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds. In addition, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. The inhibition of collagenase helps to prevent and reduce wrinkles caused by the reduction of skin collagen, increase skin elasticity, etc. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any part of various plant sources, such as fruits, flowers, stems, leaves, roots, bark or seeds. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that certain parts of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins, and thus use these parts to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some instances, the antioxidant may include one or more betacyanins. Beta-anthocyanins (similar to anthocyanins) are available from natural sources and are antioxidants.
抗氧化剂可以是苯丙素类(肉桂酸的衍生物)。苯丙素类包括:肉桂酸、咖啡酸、阿魏酸、反式阿魏酸(包括其抗氧化的pharmacore 2,6-二羟基苯乙酮(2,6-dihydroxyacetophenome))、5-羟基阿魏酸、芥子酸(sinapic acid)、香豆醇、松柏醇、芥子醇、丁香酚、胡椒酚(Chavicol)、黄樟素、P-香豆酸和芥子酸(sinapinic acid)。在不限制本发明的作用模式的情况下,苯丙素类可中和自由基。Antioxidants may be phenylpropanoids (derivatives of cinnamic acid). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenome), 5-hydroxyalkanoate Fullic acid, sinapic acid, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, p-coumaric acid, and sinapic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids neutralize free radicals.
抗氧化剂可以是查耳酮(1,3-二苯基-2-丙烯-1-酮的衍生物)。查耳酮包括:紫铆因、金鸡菊查耳酮、红花素、马里苷、广豆根酮、黄腐酚、Flavokvain A、Flavokavain B、Flavokavin C和合成Safalcone。The antioxidant may be chalcone (a derivative of 1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one). Chalcones include: Butein, Coreopsis Chalcone, Safflowerin, Maritin, Griscenone, Xanthohumol, Flavokvain A, Flavokavain B, Flavokavin C, and synthetic Safalcone.
抗氧化剂可以是类姜黄素。类姜黄素包括:姜黄素、去甲氧基姜黄素、双去甲氧基姜黄素、四氢姜黄素和四氢类姜黄素。姜黄素和四氢类姜黄素可得自姜黄(Curcuma longa)的根茎。已经发现四氢姜黄素(姜黄素的代谢产物)是相比于姜黄素更强效的抗氧化剂并且更稳定。Antioxidants may be curcuminoids. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, demethoxycurcuminoids, bisdemethoxycurcuminoids, tetrahydrocurcuminoids, and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcuminoids and tetrahydrocurcuminoids can be obtained from the rhizome of Curcuma longa. Tetrahydrocurcumin (a metabolite of curcumin) has been found to be a more potent antioxidant and more stable than curcumin.
抗氧化剂可以是单宁。单宁类包括:单宁、Terflavin B、葡萄糖没食子鞣苷(Glucogallin)、没食子酸(Dgallic acid)和栎单宁酸(Quercitannic acid)。Antioxidants can be tannins. Tannins include: Tannin, Terflavin B, Glucogallin, Dgallic acid and Quercitannic acid.
抗氧化剂可以是茋类化合物(stilbenoid)。茋类化合物包括:白藜芦醇、紫檀茋和白皮杉醇。白藜芦醇可包括但不限于3,5,4'-三羟基茋、3,4,3',5'-四羟基茋(白皮杉醇)、2,3',4,5'-四羟基茋(氧化白藜芦醇)、4,4'-二羟基茋及其α葡糖苷和β葡糖苷、半乳糖苷和甘露糖苷衍生物。Antioxidants may be stilbenoids. Stilbene compounds include: resveratrol, pterostilbene and piceatanol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (picetanol), 2,3',4,5'- Tetrahydroxystilbene (oxidized resveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene and their alpha- and beta-glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives.
抗氧化剂可以是香豆素(2H-苯并吡喃-2-酮的衍生物)。香豆素类包括:4-羟基香豆素、伞形酮、秦皮乙素、脱肠草素、橙皮油素和双香豆素。The antioxidant may be coumarin (a derivative of 2H-chromen-2-one). The coumarins include: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, terperetin, deenteridin, hesperetin, and dicoumarol.
抗氧化剂可以是类胡萝卜素。类胡萝卜素包括:β-胡萝卜素、α-胡萝卜素、γ-胡萝卜素、β-隐黄质、番茄红素、叶黄素和艾地苯醌(idebenone)。还可添加芝麻(Sesamumindicum)或芝麻木酚素。芝麻及其木酚素(与芝麻相关的纤维化合物)充当抗氧化剂。芝麻籽木酚素显著增强维生素E活性。Antioxidants may be carotenoids. Carotenoids include: β-carotene, α-carotene, γ-carotene, β-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein and idebenone. Sesamumindicum or sesame lignans may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds related to sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhanced vitamin E activity.
抗氧化剂可以是呫吨酮、丁基化羟基甲苯、2,6-二叔丁基苯酚、2,4-二甲基-6-叔丁基苯酚、没食子酸、丁香酚、尿酸、α-硫辛酸、鞣花酸、菊苣酸、绿原酸、迷迭香酸、水杨酸、乙酰半胱氨酸、S-烯丙半胱氨酸、吡喃异黄酮(Barbigerone)、诃子鞣酸、依达拉奉、乙氧喹、谷胱甘肽、羟基酪醇、艾地苯醌、褪黑素、N-乙酰基血清素、去甲二氢愈创木酸、橄榄油刺激醛(Oleocanthal)、橄榄苦苷、非洲豆蔻醇(paradol)、白皮杉醇、普罗布考、没食子酸丙酯、原儿茶酸、吡硫醇、芦丁、开环异落叶松酚二葡萄糖、芝麻素、芝麻酚、水飞蓟宾、水飞蓟素、茶黄素、茶黄素双没食子酸酯、百里香醌(Thmoquinone)、Trolox、酪醇、多不饱和脂肪酸;和基于硫的抗氧化剂,例如蛋氨酸或硫辛酸。Antioxidants can be xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-sulfur Caprylic Acid, Ellagic Acid, Chichoric Acid, Chlorogenic Acid, Rosmarinic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Acetylcysteine, S-Allylcysteine, Barbigerone, Myrobalin, Edaravone, Ethoxyquin, Glutathione, Hydroxytyrosol, Idebenone, Melatonin, N-Acetyl Serotonin, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Olive Oil Stimulated Aldehyde (Oleocanthal) , Oleuropein, Paradol, Picetanol, Probucol, Propyl Gallate, Protocatechuic Acid, Pyritinol, Rutin, Semoisolaricol Diglucose, Sesamin, Sesamol, silybin, silymarin, theaflavins, theaflavin digallate, Thmoquinone, Trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids; and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid.
除聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯以外的脂肪酯Fatty esters other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
化妆品组合物可包括除聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯以外的脂肪酯,其量可以变化,但是基于化妆品组合物的总重量计通常为约0.1-20wt.%、约0.1-约18wt.%、约0.1-约16wt.%、约0.1-约14wt.%、约0.1-约12wt.%、约0.1-约10wt.%、约0.1-约8wt.%、约0.1-约7wt.%、约0.1-约6wt.%、约0.1-约5wt.%;约0.5to 20wt.%、约0.5-约18wt.%、约0.5-约16wt.%、约0.5-约14wt.%、约0.5-约12wt.%、约0.5-约10wt.%、约0.5-约8wt.%、约0.5-约7wt.%、约0.5-约6wt.%、约0.5-约5wt.%;约1-约20wt.%、约1-约18wt.%、约1-约16wt.%、约1-约14wt.%、约1-约12wt.%、约1-约10wt.%、约1-约8wt.%、约1-约7wt.%、约1-约6wt.%、约1-约5wt.%;约2-约20wt.%、约2-约18wt.%、约2-约16wt.%、约2-约14wt.%、约2-约12wt.%、约2-约10wt.%、约2-约8wt.%、约2-约7wt.%、约2-约6wt.%、约2-约5wt.%;约3-约20wt.%、约3-约18wt.%、约3-约16wt.%、约3-约14wt.%、约3-约12wt.%、约3-约10wt.%、约3-约8wt.%、约3-约7wt.%、约3-约6wt.%、约3-约5wt.%;约4-约20wt.%、约4-约18wt.%、约4-约16wt.%、约4-约14wt.%、约4-约12wt.%、约4-约10wt.%、约4-约8wt.%或约4-约7wt.%(包括所有的范围以及其间的子范围)。Cosmetic compositions may include fatty esters other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, in amounts that vary, but generally range from about 0.1 to 20 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 18wt.%, about 0.1-about 16wt.%, about 0.1-about 14wt.%, about 0.1-about 12wt.%, about 0.1-about 10wt.%, about 0.1-about 8wt.%, about 0.1-about 7wt. %, about 0.1-about 6wt.%, about 0.1-about 5wt.%; about 0.5to 20wt.%, about 0.5-about 18wt.%, about 0.5-about 16wt.%, about 0.5-about 14wt.%, about 0.5-about 12wt.%, about 0.5-about 10wt.%, about 0.5-about 8wt.%, about 0.5-about 7wt.%, about 0.5-about 6wt.%, about 0.5-about 5wt.%; about 1- About 20wt.%, about 1-about 18wt.%, about 1-about 16wt.%, about 1-about 14wt.%, about 1-about 12wt.%, about 1-about 10wt.%, about 1-about 8wt.% .%, about 1-about 7wt.%, about 1-about 6wt.%, about 1-about 5wt.%; about 2-about 20wt.%, about 2-about 18wt.%, about 2-about 16wt.% , about 2-about 14wt.%, about 2-about 12wt.%, about 2-about 10wt.%, about 2-about 8wt.%, about 2-about 7wt.%, about 2-about 6wt.%, about 2-about 5wt.%; about 3-about 20wt.%, about 3-about 18wt.%, about 3-about 16wt.%, about 3-about 14wt.%, about 3-about 12wt.%, about 3- About 10wt.%, about 3-about 8wt.%, about 3-about 7wt.%, about 3-about 6wt.%, about 3-about 5wt.%; about 4-about 20wt.%, about 4-about 18wt.% .%, about 4-about 16wt.%, about 4-about 14wt.%, about 4-about 12wt.%, about 4-about 10wt.%, about 4-about 8wt.% or about 4-about 7wt.% (including all ranges and subranges in between).
除聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯以外的脂肪酯可以是甘油脂肪酯、失水山梨糖醇脂肪酯、乙氧基化脂肪酯、合成酯等。下文提供了可包括在化妆品组合物中的除聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯之外的脂肪酯的讨论。The fatty esters other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate may be glycerin fatty esters, sorbitan fatty esters, ethoxylated fatty esters, synthetic esters, and the like. A discussion of fatty esters other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate that can be included in cosmetic compositions is provided below.
甘油脂肪酯Glycerin Fatty Esters
可用作非离子两亲脂质的甘油脂肪酯可特别选自形成自包含具有16-22个碳原子的饱和线形烷基链的至少一种酸和1-10个甘油单元的酯。可在本公开的乳液中使用这些甘油脂肪酯中的一种或更多种。Fatty esters of glycerol useful as nonionic amphipathic lipids may in particular be selected from esters formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain having 16-22 carbon atoms and 1-10 glycerol units. One or more of these fatty glycerides may be used in the emulsions of the present disclosure.
失水山梨糖醇脂肪酯Sorbitan Fatty Ester
可用作非离子两亲脂质的失水山梨糖醇脂肪酯特别选自C16-C22脂肪酸与失水山梨糖醇的酯以及C16-C22脂肪酸与失水山梨糖醇的氧乙烯化酯。它们由包含分别具有16-22个碳原子的至少一条饱和线形烷基链的至少一种脂肪酸和山梨糖醇或乙氧基化山梨糖醇形成。氧乙烯化酯通常包含1-100个氧化乙烯单元,且优选2-40个氧化乙烯(EO)单元。Sorbitan fatty esters useful as nonionic amphiphilic lipids are chosen in particular from esters of C16-C22 fatty acids with sorbitan and oxyethylated esters of C16-C22 fatty acids with sorbitan. They are formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain each having 16 to 22 carbon atoms and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. Oxyethylenated esters generally contain 1-100 ethylene oxide units, and preferably 2-40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.
这些酯可特别选自硬脂酸酯、山萮酸酯、花生酸酯、棕榈酸酯及其混合物。优选使用硬脂酸酯和棕榈酸酯。These esters may in particular be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to using stearates and palmitates.
作为失水山梨糖醇脂肪酯和氧乙烯化失水山梨糖醇脂肪酯的实例,可提及由ICI公司以名称Span 60销售的失水山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯(CTFA名称:失水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯);由ICI公司以名称Span 40销售的失水山梨糖醇单棕榈酸酯(CTFA名称:失水山梨糖醇棕榈酸酯);或由ICI公司以名称Tween 65销售的失水山梨糖醇三硬脂酸酯20EO(CTFA名称:聚山梨酯65)。As examples of sorbitan fatty esters and oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty esters, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate sold under the name Span 60 by the company ICI (CTFA name: anhydrous Sorbitan Stearate); Sorbitan Monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan Palmitate) sold under the name Span 40 by the ICI Corporation; or Tween 65 by the ICI Corporation Sorbitan Tristearate 20EO (CTFA name: Polysorbate 65).
乙氧基化脂肪酯Ethoxylated Fatty Esters
可用作非离子两亲脂质的乙氧基化脂肪酯是由1-100个氧化乙烯单元和至少一条包含16-22个碳原子的脂肪酸链组成的酯。该酯的脂肪链可以特别选自硬脂酸酯、山萮酸酯、花生酸酯和棕榈酸酯单元、及其混合物。作为乙氧基化脂肪酯的实例,可提及包含40个氧化乙烯单元的硬脂酸的酯,例如由ICI公司以名称Myrj 52销售的产品(CTFA名称:PEG-40硬脂酸酯);以及包含8个氧化乙烯单元的山萮酸的酯(CTFA名称:PEG-8山萮酸酯),例如由Gattefosse公司以名称Compritol HD5 ATO销售的产品。Ethoxylated fatty esters useful as nonionic amphipathic lipids are esters consisting of 1-100 ethylene oxide units and at least one fatty acid chain containing 16-22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain of the ester may in particular be selected from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. As examples of ethoxylated fatty esters, mention may be made of esters of stearic acid comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 by the company ICI (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate); Also esters of behenic acid comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA designation: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.
合成酯synthetic ester
合成酯,例如式RCOOR'的油,其中R代表含有1-40个碳原子的直链或支链脂肪酸残基,且R'代表含有1-40个碳原子的尤其是支化的基于烃的链,条件是,R+R'≥10,例如尾脂腺油(purcellin oil)(辛酸鲸蜡硬脂酯)、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、棕榈酸异丙酯;苯甲酸C12-C15烷基酯,例如由Witco以商品名Finsolv或Witconol销售的产品或由EvonikGoldschmidt以商品名Tegosoft销售的产品;苯甲酸2-乙基苯酯,例如由ISP以名称X-Tend 226销售的商品;羊毛脂酸异丙酯、月桂酸己酯、己二酸二异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、芥酸油醇酯、棕榈酸2-乙基己酯、异硬脂酸异硬脂酯;癸二酸二异丙酯,例如由StearinerieDubois以名称"Dub Dis"销售的产品;醇或多元醇的辛酸酯、癸酸酯或蓖麻油酸酯,例如二辛酸丙二醇酯;羟基化酯,例如乳酸异硬脂酯或苹果酸二异硬脂酯;以及季戊四醇酯;柠檬酸酯或酒石酸酯,例如酒石酸二(直链C12-C13烷基)酯,例如由Enichem AugustaIndustriale以名称Cosmacol销售的那些;以及酒石酸二(直链C14-C15烷基)酯,例如由同一公司以名称Cosmacol销售的那些;或乙酸酯。Synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula RCOOR', wherein R represents a straight-chain or branched chain fatty acid residue containing 1-40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based residue containing 1-40 carbon atoms Chain, provided that R+R'≥10, such as purcellin oil (cetearyl caprylate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate; C12-C15 alkyl benzoate Esters, such as those sold by Witco under the trade name Finsolv or Witconol products sold by EvonikGoldschmidt or under the trade name Tegosoft Products sold; 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as that sold by ISP under the name X-Tend 226; Isopropyl lanolate, Hexyl laurate, Diisopropyl adipate, Iso-nononanoate Nonyl, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate; diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stearinerie Dubois; alcohol or Caprylic, capric, or ricinoleic acid esters of polyols, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartaric acid Esters, such as bis(linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrates, for example by Enichem Augusta Industriale under the name Cosmacol those sold; and bis(linear C14-C15 alkyl) tartrates, for example by the same company under the name Cosmacol those sold; or acetate.
除聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯以外的非离子乳化剂Nonionic emulsifiers other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
在一些情况中,化妆品组合物可包括除聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯之外的非离子乳化剂。基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,除聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯以外的非离子乳化剂的量可以是约0.1-20wt.%、约0.1-约18wt.%、约0.1-约16wt.%、约0.1-约14wt.%、约0.1-约12wt.%、约0.1-约10wt.%、约0.1-约8wt.%、约0.1-约7wt.%、约0.1-约6wt.%、约0.1-约5wt.%;约1-约20wt.%、约1-约18wt.%、约1-约16wt.%、约1-约14wt.%、约1-约12wt.%、约1-约10wt.%、约1-约8wt.%、约1-约7wt.%、约1-约6wt.%、约1-约5wt.%;约4-约20wt.%、约4-约18wt.%、约4-约16wt.%、约4-约14wt.%、约4-约12wt.%、约4-约10wt.%、约4-约8wt.%或约4-约7wt.%(包括所有的范围以及其间的子范围)。In some cases, the cosmetic composition may include a nonionic emulsifier in addition to polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate. Based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the amount of nonionic emulsifiers other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate can be about 0.1-20 wt.%, about 0.1-about 18 wt.%, about 0.1- About 16wt.%, about 0.1-about 14wt.%, about 0.1-about 12wt.%, about 0.1-about 10wt.%, about 0.1-about 8wt.%, about 0.1-about 7wt.%, about 0.1-about 6wt.% .%, about 0.1-about 5wt.%; about 1-about 20wt.%, about 1-about 18wt.%, about 1-about 16wt.%, about 1-about 14wt.%, about 1-about 12wt.% , about 1-about 10wt.%, about 1-about 8wt.%, about 1-about 7wt.%, about 1-about 6wt.%, about 1-about 5wt.%; about 4-about 20wt.%, about 4-about 18wt.%, about 4-about 16wt.%, about 4-about 14wt.%, about 4-about 12wt.%, about 4-about 10wt.%, about 4-about 8wt.% or about 4- About 7 wt.% (including all ranges and subranges therebetween).
乳化剂通常用来将油和/或脂肪化合物并入亲水介质(例如水性介质)中,以形成水包油乳液。然而,在一些情况中,乳化剂可用来将亲水相(例如水性介质)并入油或脂肪相中,以形成油包水乳液。化妆品组合物包括一种或更多种非离子乳化剂。然而,还可包括(或排除)另外的乳化剂,例如两性乳化剂、阴离子乳化剂和/或阳离子乳化剂。Emulsifiers are commonly used to incorporate oils and/or fatty compounds into hydrophilic media (eg, aqueous media) to form oil-in-water emulsions. In some cases, however, emulsifiers can be used to incorporate a hydrophilic phase (eg, an aqueous medium) into an oil or fatty phase to form a water-in-oil emulsion. Cosmetic compositions include one or more nonionic emulsifiers. However, further emulsifiers may also be included (or excluded), for example amphoteric, anionic and/or cationic emulsifiers.
关于O/W乳液,可提及的乳化剂的实例包括非离子乳化剂,例如甘油的氧化烯化(更特别是聚氧乙烯化)脂肪酸酯;失水山梨糖醇的氧化烯化脂肪酸酯;氧化烯化(氧乙烯化和/或氧丙烯化)脂肪酸酯;氧化烯化(氧乙烯化和/或氧丙烯化)脂肪醇醚;糖酯例如蔗糖硬脂酸酯;及其混合物。后面在标题“非离子乳化剂”下提供有用的非离子乳化剂的更详尽但非限制性的清单。As regards O/W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more especially polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acids of sorbitan Esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenelated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenelated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof . A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful nonionic emulsifiers is provided below under the heading "Nonionic Emulsifiers".
在一些情况中,含有天然油的化妆品组合物包括两种或更多种非离子乳化剂。特别地,具有10或更高的HLB的一种或更多种非离子乳化剂和具有5或更低的HLB的一种或更多种非离子乳化剂。这些乳化剂的总量可使得头发处理组合物的最终HLB在化妆品组合物中天然油的HLB的+/-0.5内。这通常导致头发处理组合物中乳化的天然油的最终HLB范围在约6-约8。In some cases, natural oil-containing cosmetic compositions include two or more nonionic emulsifiers. In particular, one or more nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB of 10 or higher and one or more nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB of 5 or lower. The total amount of these emulsifiers is such that the final HLB of the hair treatment composition is within +/- 0.5 of the HLB of the natural oil in the cosmetic composition. This generally results in a final HLB of the emulsified natural oil in the hair treatment composition in the range of about 6 to about 8.
可提及的乳化剂的实例包括非离子乳化剂,例如甘油的氧化烯化(更特别聚氧乙烯化)脂肪酸酯;失水山梨糖醇的氧化烯化脂肪酸酯;氧化烯化(氧乙烯化和/或氧丙烯化)脂肪酸酯;氧化烯化(氧乙烯化和/或氧丙烯化)脂肪醇醚;糖酯,例如蔗糖硬脂酸酯;及其混合物。Examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; Ethylenelated and/or oxypropylenelated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenelated and/or oxypropylenelated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof.
非离子乳化剂的非限制性实例包括基于聚甘油的乳化剂、多元醇酯、甘油醚、氧乙烯化醚、氧丙烯化醚、乙二醇聚合物、失水山梨糖醇酯、聚山梨酯、及其混合物。在一些情况中,一种或更多种非离子乳化剂选自聚甘油-10-硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-3-癸酸酯、聚甘油-3-二异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯、或其混合物。Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, polyol esters, glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylenelated ethers, glycol polymers, sorbitan esters, polysorbate , and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers are selected from polyglyceryl-10-stearate, polyglyceryl-3-caprate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol -3 Methylglucose distearate, or a mixture thereof.
pH调节剂pH regulator
化妆品组合物可包括一种或更多种pH调节剂,以提高或降低化妆品组合物的总体pH。例如,可包括一种或更多种酸,以降低化妆品组合物的pH。用于降低化妆品组合物的pH的合适的酸的实例包括但不限于柠檬酸、乙酸等。化妆品组合物可包括一种或更多种碱(例如氢氧化钠、氢氧化钾等),以降低化妆品组合物的pH。适合用于调节化妆品组合物的pH的另外或另选的酸和碱是本领域普通技术人员容易已知的。Cosmetic compositions may include one or more pH adjusting agents to increase or decrease the overall pH of the cosmetic composition. For example, one or more acids may be included to lower the pH of the cosmetic composition. Examples of suitable acids for lowering the pH of cosmetic compositions include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid, and the like. Cosmetic compositions may include one or more bases (eg, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, etc.) to lower the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids and bases suitable for adjusting the pH of cosmetic compositions are readily known to those of ordinary skill in the art.
化妆品组合物可合意地具有约4-约7、优选约4.5-约6.5或约5.5-约6.5的pH。在一种情况中,化妆品组合物的pH是6或约6。化妆品组合物中pH调节剂的量可基于最终的化妆品组合物和/或产品的所需pH。例如,基于组合物的总重量计,pH调节剂的总量可范围为约0.05-约20wt.%。在一些情况中,基于组合物的总重量计,pH调节剂的总量为约0.05-约15wt.%、约0.5-约10wt.%、约1-约5wt.%、约1.5-约4wt.%或约2.0-约3wt.%(包括各范围和其间的子范围)。Cosmetic compositions may desirably have a pH of from about 4 to about 7, preferably from about 4.5 to about 6.5 or from about 5.5 to about 6.5. In one instance, the pH of the cosmetic composition is at or about 6. The amount of pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition can be based on the desired pH of the final cosmetic composition and/or product. For example, the total amount of pH adjuster can range from about 0.05 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. In some cases, based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of the pH adjuster is about 0.05 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 4 wt.%. % or about 2.0 to about 3 wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
水water
化妆品组合物中的水的总量可以变化,但基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,通常为约50-约95wt.%。在一些情况中,基于化妆品组合物的总重量计,水的总量是约50-约90wt.%、约50-约85wt.%、约50-约80wt.%;约55-约95wt.%、约55-约90wt.%、约55-约85wt.%、约55-约80wt.%;约60-约95wt.%、约60-约90wt.%、约60-约85wt.%、约60-约80wt.%;约65-约95wt.%、约65-约90wt.%、约65-约85wt.%或约65-约80wt.%;约70-约95wt.%、约70-约90wt.%、约70-约85wt.%、约70-约80wt.%(包括各范围以及其间的子范围)。The total amount of water in the cosmetic composition can vary, but typically ranges from about 50 to about 95 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of water is about 50 to about 90 wt.%, about 50 to about 85 wt.%, about 50 to about 80 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 55 to about 95 wt.%. , about 55-about 90wt.%, about 55-about 85wt.%, about 55-about 80wt.%; about 60-about 95wt.%, about 60-about 90wt.%, about 60-about 85wt.%, about 60-about 80wt.%; about 65-about 95wt.%, about 65-about 90wt.%, about 65-about 85wt.% or about 65-about 80wt.%; about 70-about 95wt.%, about 70- About 90 wt.%, about 70 to about 85 wt.%, about 70 to about 80 wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
生产方法production method
本公开还涉及制备/制造本文描述的化妆品组合物的方法或工艺。其还涵盖由这些方法或工艺制备的产品。The present disclosure also relates to methods or processes of preparing/manufacturing the cosmetic compositions described herein. It also covers products prepared by these methods or processes.
制备化妆品组合物的某些实施方案的工艺包括形成油相和形成单独的水相(含有水),将该两相加热并在温热时合并。可将各相加热到相同的温度或可加热到不同的温度。The process of making certain embodiments of the cosmetic composition includes forming an oily phase and forming a separate aqueous phase (containing water), heating the two phases and combining while warming. The phases may be heated to the same temperature or may be heated to different temperatures.
可将增稠剂添加到化妆品组合物的水相中。然而,在一些情况中,将一种或更多种乳化剂和/或增稠剂添加到油相中。另外或另选地,可在乳化后添加增稠剂,例如可在乳化后添加聚丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸铵。Thickeners may be added to the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, however, one or more emulsifiers and/or thickeners are added to the oil phase. Additionally or alternatively, a thickener may be added after emulsification, for example ammonium polyacryldimethyl taurate may be added after emulsification.
将油相与水相合并以形成乳液之后,通常允许组合物冷却。在乳化的时间期间或之后可添加另外的组分。例如,可向水相、脂肪相中添加或者在乳化之后添加某些芳香剂、着色剂、去角质剂、活性成分等。After combining the oily and aqueous phases to form the emulsion, the composition is generally allowed to cool. Additional components may be added during or after the emulsification time. For example, certain fragrances, colorants, exfoliants, active ingredients, etc. may be added to the aqueous phase, the fatty phase, or after emulsification.
使用方法Instructions
本公开还涉及使用本文描述的化妆品组合物的方法。例如,可在包括将化妆品组合物施用于人皮肤的方法中使用化妆品组合物。在一些情况中,将组合物施用于面部。此外,可在用于处理和/或修复对皮肤的损害(例如来自光老化的损害)的方法和用于减少皮肤的皱纹、暗斑和不平的皮肤质地的外观的方法中使用化妆品组合物。前述方法是非治疗性的。The present disclosure also relates to methods of using the cosmetic compositions described herein. For example, the cosmetic composition can be used in a method comprising applying the cosmetic composition to human skin. In some instances, the compositions are applied to the face. Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions can be used in methods for treating and/or repairing damage to the skin, such as damage from photoaging, and in methods for reducing the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and uneven skin texture of the skin. The foregoing methods are non-therapeutic.
化妆品组合物可每天施用一次、每天施用两次或每天施用超过一次或两次。在一些情况中,在晚上睡前施用组合物。在其它情况中,在上午施用组合物。仍在其它情况中,可在清洗皮肤之后立即施用组合物。可使用组合物一次或使用组合物持续一连串日、周或月。例如,可每日使用组合物持续1周或1个月、2周或2个月、3周或3个月、4周或4个月、5周或5个月、6周或6个月、7周或7个月、8周或8个月或更多周或更多个月的时间段。The cosmetic composition may be applied once a day, twice a day, or more than once or twice a day. In some instances, the composition is administered at night before bed. In other cases, the composition is administered in the morning. In still other cases, the composition can be applied immediately after washing the skin. The composition can be used once or over a series of days, weeks or months. For example, the composition can be used daily for 1 week or 1 month, 2 weeks or 2 months, 3 weeks or 3 months, 4 weeks or 4 months, 5 weeks or 5 months, 6 weeks or 6 months , 7 weeks or 7 months, 8 weeks or 8 months or more for a period of weeks or more months.
实施方案implementation plan
在某些实施方案中,本公开的化妆品组合物通常包括:In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure generally include:
-约0.1-约10wt.%,优选约1-约10wt.%,更优选约2-约9wt.%的C-糖苷,例如选自C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、C-α-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、及其混合物的那些;- about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 10 wt.%, more preferably about 2 to about 9 wt.% of C-glycosides, for example selected from C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane , C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and mixtures thereof;
-约0.1-约5wt.%,优选约0.25-约5wt.%,更优选约0.5-约4wt.%的聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯;- about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt.% of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate;
-约0.1-约5wt.%,优选约0.25-约5wt.%,更优选约0.5-约4wt.%的聚丙烯酸钠;和- about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt.% of sodium polyacrylate; and
-水,优选约50-约95wt.%的水,更优选约60-约95wt.%的水,其中化妆品组合物是水包油乳液,并且所有的重量百分比基于化妆品组合物的总重量计。- Water, preferably about 50 to about 95 wt.% water, more preferably about 60 to about 95 wt.% water, wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
在进一步的实施方案中,提供了化妆品组合物,其包含:In a further embodiment, there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising:
-约0.1-约10wt.%,优选约1-约10wt.%,更优选约2-约9wt.%的C-糖苷,例如选自C-β-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、C-α-D-吡喃木糖苷-2-羟基丙烷、及其混合物的那些;- about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 10 wt.%, more preferably about 2 to about 9 wt.% of C-glycosides, for example selected from C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane , C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and mixtures thereof;
-约0.1-约5wt.%,优选约0.25-约5wt.%,更优选约0.5-约4wt.%的聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯;- about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt.% of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate;
-约0.1-约5wt.%,优选约0.25-约5wt.%,更优选约0.5-约4wt.%的聚丙烯酸钠;- about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt.% of sodium polyacrylate;
-水,优选约50-约95wt.%的水,更优选约60-约95wt.%的水;- water, preferably about 50 to about 95 wt.% water, more preferably about 60 to about 95 wt.% water;
-任选的约1-约30wt.%,优选约5-约25wt.%,更优选约10-约20wt.%的多元醇,包括例如乙二醇、丙二醇、丁二醇、己二醇、戊二醇、二甘醇、一缩二丙二醇、辛甘醇、1,3-丙二醇、甘油、一缩二甘油、聚乙二醇或其混合物;- optionally from about 1 to about 30 wt.%, preferably from about 5 to about 25 wt.%, more preferably from about 10 to about 20 wt.%, of polyhydric alcohols, including for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, Pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerin, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, or mixtures thereof;
-任选的约0.1-约10wt.%,优选约0.25-约8wt.%,更优选约0.5-约6wt.%的去油光剂,例如淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸铝;- optionally from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably from about 0.25 to about 8 wt.%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 6 wt.%, of a degreasing agent, such as aluminum starch octenyl succinate;
-任选的约0.5-约10wt.%,优选约1-约10wt.%,更优选约1-约6wt.%的油,例如硅酮、椰子油、大豆油、低芥酸菜籽油、菜籽油、玉米油、棉籽油、橄榄油、棕榈油、花生油、红花油、芝麻油、葵花油、亚麻籽油、棕榈仁油、桐油、麻风树油、芥子油、亚麻荠油、菥蓂油、蓖麻油、小麦胚芽油、杏仁油、阿月浑子树油、罂粟油、松油、鳄梨油、榛子油、葡萄籽油、菜油、杜松油、桃仁油、咖啡豆油、霍霍巴油、或其混合物;- optionally from about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, preferably from about 1 to about 10 wt.%, more preferably from about 1 to about 6 wt.%, of oils such as silicone, coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, Rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, safflower oil Oil, Castor Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Almond Oil, Pistachio Oil, Poppy Oil, Pine Oil, Avocado Oil, Hazelnut Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Rapeseed Oil, Juniper Oil, Peach Kernel Oil, Coffee Bean Oil, Jojoba oil, or a mixture thereof;
-任选的约0.01-约5wt.%,优选约0.01wt.%-约4wt.%,更优选约0.05wt.%-约4wt.%的不是聚丙烯酸钠的增稠剂,例如选自以下的那些:聚丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸铵、丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、聚丙烯酸钠、丙烯酸酯共聚物、聚丙烯酰胺、卡波姆、丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸酯/山萮醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、及其混合物;- optionally from about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, preferably from about 0.01 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, more preferably from about 0.05 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, of a thickener other than sodium polyacrylate, for example selected from Those of: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Acrylates Copolymer, Polyacrylamide, Carbomer, Acrylates/Acrylic C10 -30 Alkyl Ester Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, and mixtures thereof;
-任选的至多约5wt.%,优选约0.05-约5wt.%,更优选约0.1-约4wt.%的皮肤活性剂,例如选自以下的那些:透明质酸、羊毛脂、烟酰胺、柠檬酸、苹果酸、乳酸、酒石酸、水杨酸、辛酰水杨酸、类视色素、视黄醛、视黄醇、腺苷、透明质酸钠、视黄酸、类胡萝卜素、泛醇、氨基酸、蛋白质、酶、辅酶、及其混合物;和- optionally up to about 5 wt.%, preferably from about 0.05 to about 5 wt.%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, of skin active agents, such as those selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, lanolin, niacinamide, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Salicylic Acid, Caprylyl Salicylic Acid, Retinoids, Retinaldehyde, Retinol, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinoic Acid, Carotenoids, Panthenol , amino acids, proteins, enzymes, coenzymes, and mixtures thereof; and
-任选的约1-约30wt.%,优选约0.5-约16wt.%,更优选约1-约8wt.%的不是聚甘油-3甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯的脂肪酯,其中该脂肪酯包括异壬酸异壬酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯或其混合物,其中化妆品组合物是水包油乳液,并且所有的重量百分比基于化妆品组合物的总重量计。- optionally from about 1 to about 30 wt.%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 16 wt.%, more preferably from about 1 to about 8 wt.%, of a fatty ester other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, wherein the Fatty esters include isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglycerides, or mixtures thereof, wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percents are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
实施例Example
提供以下实施例,主要用于阐明由本公开的实施方案所实现的益处的目的。实施例用来例示技术而在本质上不一定是限制性的。The following examples are provided primarily for the purpose of illustrating the benefits achieved by embodiments of the present disclosure. The examples are intended to illustrate the technology and are not necessarily limiting in nature.
实施例1Example 1
实施例2Example 2
通过将实施例组合物A的样品施加至Glass Franz扩散池来体外评价实施例组合物A的渗透。将实施例组合物A的样品施加于来自3只不同供体的3块猪皮样品。猪皮样品是获得自胁腹的全厚度猪皮。将大约5mg/cm2的实施例组合物A施加于各猪皮样品的2cm2表面区域。用3mL受体液填充扩散池,该受体液是含有0.9wt.%NaCl的盐水溶液。将扩散池的猪皮样品在32℃的温度下保持16小时。The penetration of Example Composition A was evaluated in vitro by applying a sample of Example Composition A to a Glass Franz diffusion cell. Samples of Example Composition A were applied to 3 pig skin samples from 3 different donors. Pig skin samples were full thickness pig skin obtained from the flank. Approximately 5 mg/cm 2 of Example Composition A was applied to a 2 cm 2 surface area of each pig skin sample. The diffusion cell was filled with 3 mL of receptor fluid, which was saline solution containing 0.9 wt.% NaCl. Pig skin samples from the diffusion cell were kept at a temperature of 32°C for 16 hours.
用0.6mL含有5wt.%的月桂基醚硫酸盐的溶液清洗来自扩散池的猪皮样品,并使用半根棉签柔软按摩30秒。随后,使用0.6mL含有5wt.%的月桂基醚硫酸盐的溶液,通过用吸液管吸气并分配施与(dispensing)该溶液若干次来清洗猪皮样品。然后通过用吸液管吸气并分配施与0.6mL水来清洗猪皮样品三次。在每一个前述清洗步骤之后,使用吸液管移除相应的溶液或水。在清洗步骤完成之后,使用两个半根棉签干燥猪皮样品。Pigskin samples from the diffusion cell were washed with 0.6 mL of a solution containing 5 wt.% lauryl ether sulfate and gently massaged for 30 seconds using half a cotton swab. Subsequently, the pigskin sample was washed with 0.6 mL of a solution containing 5 wt.% of lauryl ether sulfate by aspirating with a pipette and dispensing the solution several times. Pig skin samples were then washed three times by aspirating with a pipette and dispensing 0.6 mL of water. After each preceding washing step, the corresponding solution or water was removed using a pipette. After the washing step was complete, the pigskin samples were dried using two half cotton swabs.
然后使用DSquameTM粘附胶带(其市售可得自Clinical&Derm)在猪皮样品上实施胶带剥离。具体地,30片次胶带剥离(从猪皮样品的每个供体获得10片次)。使用LC-MSMS设备和受体液将渗透进入表皮、真皮(epd)的实施例组合物A的量确定为约2.2μg/cm2的羟丙基四氢吡喃三醇的平均量。Tape peeling was then performed on the porcine skin samples using DSquame ™ adhesive tape (which is commercially available from Clinical & Derm). Specifically, 30 sheets of tape were stripped (10 sheets were obtained from each donor of pigskin samples). The amount of Example Composition A that penetrated into the epidermis, dermis (epd) was determined to be an average amount of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol of about 2.2 μg/ cm2 using LC-MSMS equipment and receptor fluid.
术语“INCI”是化妆品成分的国际命名法(International Nomenclature ofCosmetic Ingredients)的缩写,该命名法是由个人护理产品协会(Personal CareProducts Council)的国际命名委员会(International Nomenclature Committee)提供的用以描述个人护理成分的名称体系。The term "INCI" is an acronym for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care products. Nomenclature of ingredients.
如本文中所用的所有提供的范围表示包括给定范围内的每个具体范围,以及给定范围之间的子范围的组合。因此,1-5的范围具体包括1、2、3、4和5、以及诸如2-5、3-5、2-3、2-4、1-4等子范围。All provided ranges as used herein are meant to include each specific range within the given range, as well as combinations of subranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1-5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, and subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, and the like.
本公开中肯定(positively)阐述的所有组分和要素可以从权利要求书中否定(negatively)排除。换句话说,本公开的化妆品组合物可以不含或基本上不含贯穿本公开中肯定记载的所有组分和要素。All components and elements positively stated in the present disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be free or substantially free of all components and elements positively described throughout the present disclosure.
在一些情况中,本公开的化妆品组合物可基本上不含非偶然量的本文中描述的成分或化合物。成分或化合物的非偶然量是添加入化妆品组合物中的该成分或化合物本身的量。例如,化妆品组合物可基本上不含非偶然量的成分或化合物,尽管此类成分或化合物可作为原材料的一部分而存在,所述原材料作为两种或更多种化合物的共混物而被包括。In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be substantially free of, in non-incidental amounts, the ingredients or compounds described herein. A non-incidental amount of an ingredient or compound is the amount of that ingredient or compound itself that is added to the cosmetic composition. For example, a cosmetic composition may be substantially free of ingredients or compounds in non-incidental amounts, although such ingredients or compounds may be present as part of raw materials included as a blend of two or more compounds .
所确认的组分的各种类别中的一些可重叠。在其中可能存在重叠并且组合物包括两种组分(或者组合物包括超过两种重叠的组分)的此类情况下,重叠的化合物不代表超过一种组分。例如,生育酚可以被表征为皮肤活性剂和防腐剂二者。如果特定的组合物包括皮肤活性剂和防腐剂二者,则硬脂醇聚醚-20将仅充当皮肤活性剂或仅充当防腐剂(生育酚不会既充当皮肤活性剂又充当防腐剂)。Some of the various classes of components identified may overlap. In such cases where overlap is possible and the composition includes two components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), overlapping compounds do not represent more than one component. For example, tocopherol can be characterized as both a skin active agent and a preservative. If a particular composition includes both a skin active agent and a preservative, Steareth-20 will act only as a skin active agent or only as a preservative (tocopherol will not act as both a skin active agent and a preservative).
本说明书中引用的所有出版物和专利申请都通过引用并入本文,并且对于任何目的和所有目的,如同每篇单独的出版物或专利申请被具体且单独地指示为通过引用并入。万一本公开与通过引用并入本文的任何出版物或专利申请之间存在不一致,则以本公开为准。All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference for any and all purposes as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure controls.
如本文中所用的术语“包含”、“具有”和“包括”以其开放式、非限制性的意义使用。As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" are used in their open, non-limiting sense.
术语“一个/种”和“所述/该”理解为涵盖复数以及单数。因此,术语“其混合物(amixture thereof)”还涉及“其混合物(mixtures thereof)”。贯穿本公开,在要素清单之后使用术语“其混合物”,如以下实例中所显示,其中字母A-F代表要素:“选自A、B、C、D、E、F及其混合物中的一种或更多种要素”。术语“其混合物”不要求该混合物包括A、B、C、D、E和F中的所有种(虽然可以包括A、B、C、D、E和F中的所有种)。相反,它指示可以包括A、B、C、D、E和F中的任何两种或更多种的混合物。换句话说,它等同于短语“选自A、B、C、D、E、F;以及A、B、C、D、E和F中的任何两种或更多种的混合物中的一种或更多种要素”。The terms "a" and "the" are understood to cover the plural as well as the singular. Accordingly, the term "a mixture thereof" also relates to "mixtures thereof". Throughout this disclosure, the term "mixture thereof" is used after a list of elements, as shown in the following examples, where the letters A-F represent elements: "An or more elements". The term "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "chosen from A, B, C, D, E, F; and any mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F or more elements".
表述“一种/个或更多种/个”表示“至少一种/个”,并因此包括单独的组分以及混合物/组合。The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
除在操作实施例中或另外指明之处以外,表达成分的量和/或反应条件的所有数值在所有情况中可被术语“约”修饰,这意味着在所指示数值的+/-5%之内。Except in the working examples or where otherwise indicated, all numerical values expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions may in all cases be modified by the term "about", which means within +/- 5% of the indicated numerical value within.
如本文中所用的术语“处理”(及其语法上的变型)指将本公开的组合物施用到角蛋白基底(例如使用者的头和/或身体上的毛发)的表面上。The term "treatment" (and grammatical variants thereof) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of a keratinous substrate such as hair on the user's head and/or body.
如本文中所用的术语“基本上不含(substantially free或essentially free)”表示基于组合物的总重量计,添加到该组合物中的特定材料少于约2重量%。然而,该组合物可包括少于约1wt.%、少于约0.5wt.%、少于约0.1wt.%的指定材料、或不包含指定材料。本文中阐述的所有的组分可任选地包括在组合物/方法/套装中或从组合物/方法/套装中排除。排除时,组合物/方法/套装可不含或基本上不含该组分。例如,特定的组合物可不含或基本上不含硅酮。As used herein, the term "substantially free" or "essentially free" means that less than about 2% by weight of a particular material is added to the composition, based on the total weight of the composition. However, the composition may include less than about 1 wt.%, less than about 0.5 wt.%, less than about 0.1 wt.%, or no specified material. All components set forth herein can be optionally included in or excluded from the composition/method/kit. When excluded, the composition/method/kit can be free or substantially free of that component. For example, a particular composition may be free or substantially free of silicone.
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| US20240358615A1 (en) * | 2021-09-23 | 2024-10-31 | L'oreal | Composition for caring for keratin materials |
| CN119255780A (en) * | 2022-06-30 | 2025-01-03 | 莱雅公司 | Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials |
| CN115944557B (en) * | 2022-08-22 | 2024-07-09 | 上海宜侬生物科技有限公司 | Repairing composition, freeze-dried repairing powder, preparation method and application |
| CN119836285A (en) * | 2022-09-30 | 2025-04-15 | 莱雅公司 | Composition for caring keratin materials |
| CN115969717A (en) * | 2022-11-15 | 2023-04-18 | 广州品赫化妆品有限公司 | Firming stick with wrinkle removing effect and preparation method thereof |
| CN116172891B (en) * | 2023-03-10 | 2023-11-28 | 珠海市华中源生物科技有限公司 | Multi-effect moisturizing composition and preparation method thereof |
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