WO2025082639A1

WO2025082639A1 - Gel formulation with oils

Info

Publication number: WO2025082639A1
Application number: PCT/EP2024/070102
Authority: WO
Inventors: Shuqin XU; Mengting CAI; Shumin LUO; Cecile Ratschow
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2023-10-17
Filing date: 2024-07-16
Publication date: 2025-04-24
Anticipated expiration: 2026-04-17
Also published as: CN118217183A; WO2025081337A1

Abstract

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to gel formulation with oils. Specifically, the present invention discloses a cosmetic gel composition comprising at least one gum selected from dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum and cellulose gum, at least one oil selected from the group consisting of diisopropyl sebacate, C13-16 isoparaffin, heptyl undecylenate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, isoamyl laurate, propylene glycol diheptanoate, and water, which provides a fast absorption of the gel on human skin with only limited or low sticky feeling.

Description

Gel formulation with oils

Technical field

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to a cosmetic gel composition. The composition according to the present invention provides a fast absorption of the gel on human skin while proving only limited sticky feeling.

Technical background

A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. Therefore, an essential part of the daily personal care of humans is focus on the care of the facial skin.

Caring gel formulations are well known for their fast absorption properties and light sensory. In the technical sense, the term "gel" is understood to mean relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems made up of at least two components, which usually consist of a - usually solid - colloidally divided substance made up of long-chain molecular groups (e.g. gelatine, silicic acid, polysaccharides) as a builder and a liquid dispersing agent (e.g. water). The colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickening agent, or gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersing agent, with individual colloidally present particles more or less firmly connected to one another via electrostatic interaction.

Acrylic acid polymers are mainly used as thickeners. The existing free carboxy groups of these polymers are by alkalis - such as caustic soda or amines - converted into the salt form and thus lead to an increase in viscosity as a result of strong crosslinking. Furthermore, cellulose derivatives or other polysaccharides, such as guar flour or xanthan gum, are used as gelling agents. Depending on the type and amount of thickening agent, the consistency of a gel can be adjusted from liquid to firm.

The dispersant surrounding the network is characterized by electrostatic affinity for the thickener. That is, a predominantly polar (particularly: hydrophilic) thickener preferentially gels a polar dispersant (particularly: water), whereas a predominantly non-polar thickener preferentially gels non-polar dispersants.

In cosmetic galenic, gels are generally characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency. Cosmetic gel formulations are disclosed in US7455832 B2.

The use of cellulose derivatives or other polysaccharides as thickener in contrast to the acrylic acid polymers has the advantage that the general CO2 emissions caused by the total production of the cosmetic gels is reduced.

Unfortunately, cellulose derivatives or other polysaccharides are less effective to build up viscosity in a gel than the acrylic acid polymers or other synthetic polymers. To compensate this shortfall, it is most often required to use the cellulose derivatives or other polysaccharides in a high dosage. However, this makes the gel to absorb slowly on human skin. Further, the application of the gel causes an unacceptable sticky feeling on the skin.

Thus, it is desirable to provide gel type cosmetic formulations, which do not suffer one or more of the disadvantages discussed above while having a suitable viscosity in the range from 2,000 to 10,000 mPa s.

It was surprisingly found that the needs can be matched by the present invention.

Summary of the invention

The present invention is a cosmetic gel composition comprising a) At least one gum selected from dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum and cellulose gum, b) At least one oil selected from the group consisting of diisopropyl sebacate, C13-16 isoparaffin, heptyl undecylenate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, isoamyl laurate, propylene glycol diheptanoate, c) Water.

It was surprisingly found that the composition according to the invention allows for a significant reduction of the stickiness of the gel upon application on the human skin. The absorption time is maintained in comparison to a composition not containing an oil component. If other oils are used the absorption time of the gel is found to be significantly increased compared to a composition containing no oil compounds. Definitions

All the weight percentages (% by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions”. The term "normal conditions" refers to 25°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

In the following description the terms “according to the invention”, “preferred according to the invention” and so on are always directed to the use according to the invention, to the composition and to the method according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05% by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as "free from" according to the invention.

The term “skin” refers solely to the human skin. The term “hair” refers solely to the human head hair.

If viscosity values are given in this disclosure, then all values relate to a measurement at 25° C. in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR No.: 807-001) using Rheomat R 123 from the company proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i. H. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. Measuring body No. 1 (Article No. 200 0191), suitable for a viscosity range of up to 10,000 [mPa s], speed range 62.5 min ¹, is used as the measuring body.

Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent". Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621 -47-6) under the name "surfactant".

Detailed description

According to the invention the cosmetic gel composition comprises the oils b). it is preferred if the total quantity of the oils b) is in the range from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, still more preferably 2.0 to 6.5% by weight and most preferably 3.5 to 6.0 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Among the oil listed in b) certain benefits were noticed if used alone or in specific combinations. Accordingly, it was found that the lowest stickiness values were found for the case that one or more of the oils selected from the group consisting of diisopropyl sebacate, C13-16 isoparaffin and heptyl undecylenate. Thus, it is preferred if diisopropyl sebacate, C13-16 isoparaffin and/or heptyl undecylenate are contained.

A preferred embodiment is cosmetic gel composition comprising a) At least one gum selected from dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum and cellulose gum, b) At least one oil selected from the group consisting of diisopropyl sebacate, C13-16 isoparaffin and heptyl undecylenate, c) Water.

In this embodiment it is preferred if the total quantity of diisopropyl sebacate, C13-16 isoparaffin and/or heptyl undecylenate is in the range from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, still more preferably 2.0 to 6.5% by weight and most preferably 3.5 to 6.0 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It was further surprisingly noticed that specific oils allow to achieve an even faster absorption time on the skin in comparison to a formula not containing oils at all. These oils are C13-16 isoparaffin, heptyl undecylenate and isoamyl laurate. Thus, it is preferred if C13-16 isoparaffin, heptyl undecylenate and/or isoamyl are contained. A preferred embodiment is cosmetic gel composition comprising a) At least one gum selected from dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum and cellulose gum, b) At least one oil selected from the group consisting of C13-16 isoparaffin, heptyl undecylenate and isoamyl laurate, c) Water.

In this embodiment it is preferred if the total quantity of C13-16 isoparaffin, heptyl undecylenate and/or isoamyl laurate is in the range from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 6.5% by weight and most preferably 3.5 to 6.0 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

A further shortfall of many formulations is that some oils may separate from the gel if stored at 25 °C for a period of 24 hours. However, it was surprisingly found that only the use of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate allows for formulations which do not exhibit an oil separation, and which allows for an absorption on the skin at a comparable time as a formulation not containing an oil compound. Thus, again another preferred embodiment is a cosmetic gel composition comprising a) At least one gum selected from dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum and cellulose gum, b) pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, c) Water.

In this embodiment it is preferred if the total quantity of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate is in the range from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, still more preferably 2.0 to 6.5% by weight and most preferably 3.5 to 6.0 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Nevertheless, the formulations only containing pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate do not provide the lowest stickiness possible.

An advantageous cosmetic gel formulation is characterized in that it comprises a) At least one gum selected from dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum and cellulose gum, b) pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, c) C13-16 isoparaffin and/or heptyl undecylenate, and d) Water.

This embodiment surprisingly allows to provide stable gel formulations which do not suffer oil separation, which have a fast absorption time on the human skin and which have a very low sticky feeling upon application to the human skin.

It is preferred if the total quantity of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C13-16 isoparaffin and/or heptyl undecylenate is in the range from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, still more preferably 2.0 to 6.5% by weight and most preferably 3.5 to 6.0 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the ratio by weight between pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and the total quantity of C13-16 isoparaffin and/or heptyl undecylenate is in the range from 1 .5:1 to 1 :1 .5, more preferably 1 .25:1 to 1 :1 .25.

Further it is preferred if both C13-16 isoparaffin and heptyl undecylenate are contained. The ratio by weight between C13-16 isoparaffin and heptyl undecylenate is preferably in the range from 1 :1 to 1 :5, more preferably 1 :1 .5 to 1 :3 and most preferably 1 :2 to 1 :2.5.

It is preferred if the composition of the invention does contain further oil compounds only in quantities of no more than 1 .0% by weight. It is most preferred if the compositions according to the invention is free from further oil compounds.

According to the invention the cosmetic gel composition comprises the gums a), it is preferred if the total quantity of the gums a) is in the range from 0.3 to 1 .8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 1 .4% by weight and most preferably in the range from 0.8 to 1.1% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferred if at least dehydroxanthan gum is contained. For the case that dehydroxanthan gum is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of dehydroxanthan gum is in the range from 0.1 to 1 .0% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight and most preferably in the range 0.3 to 0.6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferred if at least xanthan gum is contained. For the case that xanthan gum is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of xanthan gum is in the range from 0.1 to 1 .0% by weight, more preferably 0.15 to 0.8% by weight and most preferably in the range 0.2 to 0.6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferred if at least gellan gum is contained. For the case that gellan gum is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of gellan gum is in the range from 0.1 to 1 .0% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 0.7% by weight and most preferably in the range 0.3 to 0.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferred if at least cellulose gum is contained. For the case that cellulose gum is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of cellulose gum is in the range from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight and most preferably in the range 0.1 to 0.3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the ratio by weight between dehydroxanthan gum and the remaining gums according to a) is in the range from 5:1 to 1 :2, more preferably 3:1 to 1 :1 .5 and most preferably 1.5:1 to 1 :1.

According to the invention the gel composition comprises water. It is preferred if the total quantity of water is in the range from 70 to 95% by weight, preferably 75 to 90% by weight, more preferably 80 to 88% by weight and most preferably 83 to 87% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise components usually contained in such compositions. Thus, for example, it is preferred if the composition one or more diols containing 3 to 10 carbon atoms. Preferred are butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and 1 ,2-hexanediol. For the case that one or more diols containing 3 to 10 carbon atoms are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those is in the range from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 7% by weight and most preferably 3 to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the case that butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and/or 1 ,2-hexanediol are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those is in the range from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 7% by weight and most preferably 3 to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferred if 1 ,2-hexandiol is contained, wherein it is preferred if the total quantity of 1 ,2- hexandiol is in the range from 0.2 to 1 .0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferred if butylene glycol is contained, wherein it is preferred if the total quantity of butylene glycol is in the range from 1 .2 to 4.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferred if pentylene glycol is contained, wherein it is preferred if the total quantity of pentylene glycol is in the range from 0.3 to 2.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if glycerin is contained. For the case that glycerin is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of glycerin is in the range from 2.5 to 10.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the purpose of limiting bacterial growth, it is preferred if phenoxyethanol and/or ethylhexylglycerin are contained in the composition. For the case that phenoxyethanol is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.2 to 1 .0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. For the case that ethylhexylglycerin is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.2 to 1 .0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. The composition may further comprise perfume ingredients or colorants to characterize the composition.

Further it is preferred if the composition is free from emulsifiers and/or surfactants. These ingredients would potentially change the character of the gel structure, as oil droplets would be emulsified.

Further it is preferred if the composition is free from homo or copolymers polymerized from a mixture comprising acrylic acid and/or vinylpyrrolidone.

Preferably the gel composition is characterized in that it has a viscosity in the range from 2,000 to 10,000 mPa-s. by Rheomat R 123 from the company proRheo (see above).

Examples

The following examples should illustrate the composition of this invention, without, however, intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. The compositions are prepared by mixing the polymer components in water, then adding the water-soluble ingredients, followed by the addition of the oil combination into the gel.

After preparation of the gels, absorption time and stickiness were evaluated by 9 trained experts. They applied 50ul emulsion on their forearm in a 5cm diameter circle, rubbed with speed of 96bpm, then evaluated as below:

Absorption time: The absorption time was measured in seconds by constantly rubbing with a finger to the point a dullness is felt on the skin. The shorter the time, the shorter is the absorption time.

Stickiness score: after absorption, touch the skin inside the circle. Feel the force required to separate the heel of the hand from the skin. (0 - not sticky/tacky; 5 - very sticky/tacky). Oil separation: for the gel with oil, after the bulk was prepared in a 200ml beaker, store for 24h and check oil separation from top surface by one expert in the lab. (5- no oil separation; 0- totally oil separation).

The example Ex.1 is a gel formulation not containing an oil. It suffers a high stickiness upon application. Ex.2-Ex.3, Ex.6-Ex.9, Ex.11 , Ex.13 and Ex.14 are examples not containing the oils according to the invention. The formulas all suffer a long absorption time exceeding 60 seconds. The remaining examples are according to the invention. The advantages are already described in the description above.

Claims

1 . Cosmetic gel composition comprising a) At least one gum selected from dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum and cellulose gum, b) At least one oil selected from the group consisting of diisopropyl sebacate, CIS- 16 isoparaffin, heptyl undecylenate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, isoamyl laurate, propylene glycol diheptanoate, and c) Water.

2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the total quantity of the oils b) is in the range from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 6.5% by weight and most preferably 3.5 to 6.0 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2characterized in that the oils selected from the group consisting of diisopropyl sebacate, C13-16 isoparaffin and heptyl undecylenate.

4. Composition according to claim 3 characterized in that the total quantity of diisopropyl sebacate, C13-16 isoparaffin and/or heptyl undecylenate is in the range from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 6.5% by weight and most preferably 3.5 to 6.0 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 characterized in that C13-16 isoparaffin, heptyl undecylenate and/or isoamyl are contained.

6. Composition according to claim 5 characterized in that the total quantity of C13-16 isoparaffin, heptyl undecylenate and/or isoamyl laurate is in the range from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 6.5% by weight and most preferably 3.5 to 6.0 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 characterized in that pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate is contained.

8. Composition according to claim 7 characterized in that the total quantity of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate is in the range from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 6.5% by weight and most preferably 3.5 to 6.0 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 characterized in that

- pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and

- C13-16 isoparaffin and/or heptyl undecylenate are contained.

10. Composition according to claim 9 characterized in that the total quantity of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C13-16 isoparaffin and/or heptyl undecylenate is in the range from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 6.5% by weight and most preferably 3.5 to 6.0 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

11 . Composition according to claim 9 or claim 10 characterized in that the ratio by weight between pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and the total quantity of C13-16 isoparaffin and/or heptyl undecylenate is in the range from 1 .5:1 to 1 :1 .5, preferably 1 .25:1 to 1 :1.25.

12. Composition according to one of the claims 9 to 11 characterized in that both C13-16 isoparaffin and heptyl undecylenate are contained.

13. Composition according to claim 12 characterized in that the ratio by weight between C13-16 isoparaffin and heptyl undecylenate is in the range from 1 :1 to 1 :5, preferably 1 :1 .5 to 1 :3 and more preferably 1 :2 to 1 :2.5.

14. Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition does contain further oil compounds only in quantities of no more than 1 .0% by weight.

15. Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the total quantity of the gums a) is in the range from 0.3 to 1 .8% by weight, preferably 0.5 to

1 .4% by weight and more preferably in the range from 0.8 to 1.1% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that at least dehydroxanthan gum is contained, and it is preferred if the total quantity of dehydroxanthan gum is in the range from 0.1 to 1 .0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight and more preferably in the range 0.3 to 0.6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to claim 16 characterized in that the ratio by weight between dehydroxanthan gum and the remaining gums according to a) is in the range from 5:1 to 1 :2, preferably 3:1 to 1 :1 .5 and more preferably 1 .5:1 to 1 :1.

18. Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the total quantity of water is in the range from 70 to 95% by weight, preferably 75 to 90% by weight, more preferably 80 to 88% by weight and most preferably 83 to 87% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.