WO2023221016A1

WO2023221016A1 - Cosmetic gel composition with reduced stickiness and fast absorption properties

Info

Publication number: WO2023221016A1
Application number: PCT/CN2022/093731
Authority: WO
Inventors: Julia Eckert; Claudia Mueller; Fasong LI; Yan Li
Original assignee: Niva Shanghai Co Ltd; Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Niva Shanghai Co Ltd; Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2022-05-19
Filing date: 2022-05-19
Publication date: 2023-11-23
Anticipated expiration: 2024-11-19
Also published as: EP4496551A1

Abstract

A cosmetic composition with reduced stickiness and fast skin absorption properties comprises based on the total weight of the composition: a. 0.05 to 1% by weight of at least one natural gum, b. 0.1 to 5% by weight of methylheptylglycerin, c. less than 0.1% or 0% by weight of a silicone oil and/or a silicone compound, d. less than 0.1% or 0% by weight of polymers formed by homo- or copolymerization with acrylic acid and/or methacrylic, e. less than 0.1% or 0% by weight of polymers formed by homo- or copolymerization with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

Description

Cosmetic gel composition with reduced stickiness and fast absorption properties

Technical field

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition with reduced stickiness and fast skin absorption properties.

Background art

Cosmetic products generally not only serve to look beautiful and attractive, but their effects make a decisive contribution to increased self-esteem and people's wellbeing. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleaning and care of human skin.

Hydrogels and their use for administering cosmetic ingredients to the skin or mucous membrane of a person are known. In the technical sense, the term "gel" is understood to mean relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems of at least two components, which are usually composed of a -mostly solid -colloidally divided substance made up of long-chain molecular groups (e.g. gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) . The colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickener, gel former or gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersant, whereby individual colloidal particles are more or less solid with each other through electrostatic interaction can be linked.

The gel forming polymers in powder form that are the most commonly known are polymers based on acrylic acid or copolymers based on acrylic acid and esters thereof, for instance the polymers sold under the names Carbopol ^TM and Pemulen ^TM and which are described especially in U.S. Pat. No. 5,373,044 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053 and also in European patent EP 0 301 532, or alternatively homopolymers or copolymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the name Aristoflex ^TM and which are described especially in European patents EP 0 816 403, EP 1 116 733 and EP 1 069 142 or Sepimax ^TMZen described in international patent application WO 2011/030 044. These polymer powders are obtained by precipitating polymerization in an organic solvent such as benzene, ethyl acetate, cyclohexane or tert-butanol. For the gel forming, the free carboxy groups present in these polymers are replaced by alkalis -such as. B. caustic soda or amines -converted into the salt form and thereby lead to an increase in viscosity as a result of strong crosslinking.

The dispersant which surrounds the network is characterized by an electrostatic affinity for the thickener; That is, a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) thickener preferably gels a polar dispersant (in particular: water) , whereas a predominantly non-polar thickener preferably gels non-polar dispersant.

Strong electrostatic interactions, which are realized, for example, in hydrogen bonds between thickener and dispersant, but also between dispersant molecules with one another, can lead to strong crosslinking of the dispersant as well. Hydrogels can consist of almost 100%water (in addition to about 0.2-1.0%of a gelling agent, for example) and have a firm consistency. In cosmetic galenics, hydrogels gels are usually characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency.

The person skilled in the art knows hydrogels from DE2005056497 A1, among others.

The abovementioned polymers are essentially intended for the gel forming of cosmetic topical formulations. Further, if combined with low levels of glycerol such as less than 4%the formed hydrogels are perceived to be not sticky while maintaining a refreshing effect by the use of formulations on the skin. Now, certain hydrogels, more particularly those intended for skincare, also contain relatively large amounts of glycerol, typically between 4.5%and 10%by weight, for increasing their moisturizing power. However, since the presence of glycerol therein also considerably increases their tacky effect, formulators add thereto low levels of silicone oils to limit or eliminate this tacky effect. But, the presence of silicone oils in such formulations, which are intended to be in direct contact with the skin, is poorly appreciated by the end consumer. The cosmetic industry thus attempts to limit the use of silicone compounds thereof.

Further, due to the not known degradability of the polymers based on acrylic acid or copolymers based on acrylic acid and esters in the environment it is in the interest of all if formulations do not require the presence of acrylic polymers anymore. Therefore, a general need exists for alternative formulations which do not require the presence of this polymers.

Hence, the cosmetic industry has to focus on the biodegradable /natural polymers such as xanthan or guar gums. However, the introduction of those polymers leads to a further increase in stickiness of the hydrogels, which is even more problematic if glycerol is contained in quantities exceeding 4.5%by weight of the formulations. Further, the introduction of the polymers leads to an increase of the absorption time of the hydrogel on the skin. Thus, it is generally desirable to provide methods to reduce or avoid the stickiness of those formulation and reduce the absorption time, especially of glycerol is contained in quantities exceeding 4.5%by weight of the hydrogel, while not employing silicone oils.

Summary of the invention

It was surprisingly found by the application that the objectives can be met by the present invention.

A first object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising based on the total weight of the composition

a. 0.05 to 1%by weight of at least one natural gum,

b. 0.1 to 5%by weight of methylheptylglycerin,

c. less than 0.1%or 0%by weight of a silicone oil and/or a silicone compound,

d. less than 0.1%or 0%by weight of polymers formed by homo-or copolymerization with acrylic acid and/or methacrylic,

e. less than 0.1%or 0%by weight of polymers formed by homo-or copolymerization with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

It was surprisingly noticed that the compositions according to the invention allow for a fast absorption while having a less sticky sensation on the skin.

A further aspect of the invention is the use of methylheptylglycerin in a cosmetic composition comprising a natural gum to allow a faster absorption of the composition on the skin.

A further aspect of the invention is the use of methylheptylglycerin and a natural gum in a cosmetic composition to allow a faster absorption of the composition on the skin.

A further aspect of the invention is the use of methylheptylglycerin in a cosmetic composition comprising a natural gum to reduce the sticky feeling of the composition after application to the skin.

A further aspect of the invention is the use of methylheptylglycerin and a natural gum in a cosmetic composition to reduce the sticky feeling of the composition after application to the skin.

According to the invention the composition is preferably a hydrogel.

All the weight percentages (%by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions” . The term "normal conditions" refers to 20℃, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

In the following description the terms ” according to the invention” , “preferred according to the invention” and so on are always directed to the use according to the invention, to the composition and to the method according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.5%by weight, preferably less than 0.3%by weight, more preferably less than 0.2%by weight, more preferably less than 0.1%by weight and most preferably less than 0.05%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The term “skin” refers solely to the human skin.

Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent" . Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant" .

According to the invention it is preferred if the composition comprises oil and wax compounds in quantities of less than 1%by weight, more preferably less than 0.5%by weight, more preferably less than 0.2%, more preferably less than 0.1%and most preferably 0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the compositions. Accordingly, hydrogels are considerably different from emulsions, as only low quantities or no oil at all is contained.

A further difference to a conventional emulsion is that the hydrogel does not require the presence of an emulsifier. Thus, the formulations of the invention are preferably free from emulsifier.

According to the invention it is preferred if the compositions comprises at least one natural gum. Preferably, the natural gum is selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , ceratonia siliqua gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum and succinoglycan gum.

According to the invention the composition comprises 0.05 to 1%by weight of at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , ceratonia siliqua gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum and succinoglycan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Those gums allow to build up a hydrogel structure in the formulation.

It is advantageous if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of at least one natural gum selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , ceratonia siliqua gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum and succinoglycan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is particular preferred if at least xanthan gum, gellan gum, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , ceratonia siliqua gum and/or caesalpinia spinosa gum are contained. Further it is particularly preferred if at least xanthan gum is contained. Further it is particularly preferred if at least gellan gum is contained. Further it is particularly preferred if at least cellulose gum is contained. Further it is particularly preferred if at least Ceratonia siliqua gum is contained. Further it is particularly preferred if at least caesalpinia spinosa gum is contained.

It is advantageous if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of xanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is advantageous if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of gellan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is advantageous if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of sclerotium gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is advantageous if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of dehydroxanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is advantageous if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is advantageous if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of ceratonia siliqua gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is advantageous if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of caesalpinia spinosa gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is advantageous if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of succinoglycan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1 to 5%by weight of methylheptylglycerin. It is preferred if the total quantity of methylheptylglycerin is in the range from 0.15 to 2%by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5%by weight and most preferably from 0.25 to 1.1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the composition comprises glycerol (glycerin) . For the case that glycerol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of the glycerol is more than 4.5%by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition. It is preferred if the total quantity of glycerol is in the range from 4.5%by weight to 10%by weight, more preferably 5 to 9%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. The invention allowed for a fast absorption while having a less sticky sensation on the skin even if glycerol is contained in the high quantities as described above.

Further it is preferred if the composition according to the invention comprises further short chain polyols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferred polyols of that type are Butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2 hexanediol, 1, 2 heptanediol, 1,2 propanediol, methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol.

It is preferred if those preferred polyols are contained in quantities ranging from 0.5 to 7%by weight, more preferably 1 to 5%by weight and most preferably from 1.5 to 4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the case that butylene glycol is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of butylene glycol is in the range from 1.5 to 3.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the case that 1, 2 hexanediol is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of 1, 2 hexanediol is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the composition comprises phenoxyethanol and/or ethylhexylglycerin.

For the case that phenoxyethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the case that ethylhexylglycerin is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 1.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if further active ingredients are contained. These are advantageously selected from the group containing sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. The active ingredients mentioned in the group are advantageously used in total proportions of up to 2%by weight, preferably less than 1%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention it is preferred if the composition comprises a gel network. The presence of a gel network in the composition can be confirmed by means known to one of skill in the art. For example, X-ray analysis, optical microscopy, electron microscopy, and differential scanning calorimetry can be used to identify a gel network. A suitable x-ray analysis is described in U.S. Patent App. Publication No. 2006/0024256 which is cited.

Examples

The following examples should illustrate the compositions of this invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The example formulations Ex. 3, Ex. 4, Ex. 6 and Ex. 7 are according to the invention. The remaining examples are reference examples.

The stickiness and fast absorption capabilities of the formulations were analyzed by trained sensory experts.

For fast absorption properties 0.2g of a formulation to be evaluated was applied to the skin and spread (90 circles/min) using one finger. The number of circles was counted until the product absorbed (no obvious wet feeling on skin) . The spread circles and scores were:

<120 circles: 10

120-130 circles: 9.5

130-140 circles: 9

140-150 circles: 8.5

150-160 circles: 8

160-170 circles: 7.5

170-180 circles: 7

180-190 circles: 6.5

190-200 circles: 6

200-210 circles: 5.5

210-220 circles: 5

220-230 circles: 4.5

230-240 circles: 4

240-250 circles: 3.5

250-260 circles: 3

260-270 circles: 2.5

270-280 circles: 2

>280 circles: 1

For stickiness the 0.2g of a formulation to be evaluated was applied to the skin and spread (90 circles/min) using one finger. The spreading was stopped once the formulation was absorbed. Then touch the treated skin with the finger used for spreading at a rate of 90 times per minute and count until there was no sticky feeling between finger and skin anymore. The touch times and score as below. Intermediate values can be calculated using math:

Non sticky at 1st touch: 10

<10 touches: 9

10-40 touches: 8

40-70 touches: 7

70-100 touches: 6

100-130 touches: 5

130-160 touches: 4

160-190 touches: 3

190-220 touches: 2

>220 touches: 1

Comparing Ex. 1 and Ex. 2 it is obvious that in the presence of the gel forming xanthan gum the formulation becomes more sticky and less fast absorbing. By adding methylheptylglycerin in a quantity of 1.0%and 0.25%by weight the stickiness of the formulation can be reduced, and a fast absorption is achieved (Ex. 3 and 4) . The same effect is when analyzing the Ex. 5 to Ex. 7 regarding the gel former gellan Gum.

Further experimental scores are disclosed in the following table.

Further example formulations are disclosed in the following table.

Claims

A cosmetic composition, preferably in a form of hydrogel, comprising based on the total weight of the composition

a. 0.05 to 1%by weight of at least one natural gum,

b. 0.1 to 5%by weight of methylheptylglycerin,

c. less than 0.1%or 0%by weight of a silicone oil and/or a silicone compound,

d. less than 0.1%or 0%by weight of polymers formed by homo-or copolymerization with acrylic acid and/or methacrylic,

e. less than 0.1%or 0%by weight of polymers formed by homo-or copolymerization with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the natural gum is selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , ceratonia siliqua gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum and succinoglycan gum.
Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of at least one natural gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that at least xanthan gum, gellan gum, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , ceratonia siliqua gum and/or caesalpinia spinosa gum are contained.
Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of xanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4 characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of gellan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4 characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of sclerotium gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4 characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of dehydroxanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4 characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of cellulose gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4 characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of ceratonia siliqua gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4 characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of caesalpinia spinosa gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4 characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of succinoglycan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the total quantity of methylheptylglycerin is in the range from 0.15 to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5%by weight and more preferably from 0.25 to 1.1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Use of methylheptylglycerin in a cosmetic composition comprising a natural gum to allow a faster absorption of the composition on the skin.
Use of methylheptylglycerin in a cosmetic composition comprising a natural gum to reduce the sticky feeling of the composition after application to the skin.
Use of methylheptylglycerin and a natural gum in a cosmetic composition to allow a faster absorption of the composition on the skin.
Use of methylheptylglycerin and a natural gum in a cosmetic composition to reduce the sticky feeling of the composition after application to the skin.