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WO2024218257A1 - Traitement à l'ozone de tissus en fibres synthétiques cellulosiques - Google Patents

Traitement à l'ozone de tissus en fibres synthétiques cellulosiques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024218257A1
WO2024218257A1 PCT/EP2024/060639 EP2024060639W WO2024218257A1 WO 2024218257 A1 WO2024218257 A1 WO 2024218257A1 EP 2024060639 W EP2024060639 W EP 2024060639W WO 2024218257 A1 WO2024218257 A1 WO 2024218257A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
ozone
treatment
process according
ozone treatment
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/EP2024/060639
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English (en)
Inventor
Begoña GARCIA VICTORIA
Ignasi OSET CÉSPEDES
Alejandro BAOS RUBIO
Michael Andrew Kininmonth
James Martin Taylor
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Lenzing AG
Jeanologia SL
Original Assignee
Lenzing AG
Chemiefaser Lenzing AG
Jeanologia SL
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Lenzing AG, Chemiefaser Lenzing AG, Jeanologia SL filed Critical Lenzing AG
Priority to CN202480026242.XA priority Critical patent/CN120958191A/zh
Publication of WO2024218257A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024218257A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/34—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxygen, ozone or ozonides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/84—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising combined with mechanical treatment
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/22—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using vat dyestuffs including indigo
    • D06P1/228—Indigo
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/02—After-treatment
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P7/00—Dyeing or printing processes combined with mechanical treatment

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a process for the dyeing and finishing of a fabric, or a garment, made from cellulosic man-made fibres, in particular lyocell, modal or viscose fibres.
  • cellulosic wood-based fibre fabric means a fabric formed, particularly woven or knitted, from yams, particularly staple fibre yarns (but not exclusively), comprising cellulosic man-made fibers, lyocell, modal or viscose fibres respectively.
  • Such yams may comprise lyocell fibres alone or in a blend of lyocell fibres with fibres of one or more other cellulosic fibres alone such as cotton, viscose, linen or non-cellulosic types, such as polyester, elastane or nylon.
  • Such yams may also comprise modal fibres alone or in a blend with one or more other cellulosic fibres or non-cellulosic types, such as cotton, viscose, linen, polyester, elastane or nylon.
  • the fabric may additionally include yams that do not incorporate lyocell, modal or viscose fibres, for example yams of other fiber types referred to and blends thereof.
  • Lyocell fibers are produced by extrusion of a solution of cellulose through a spinning jet into a coagulation bath by a process known as solvent spinning. They are thus alternatively known as solvent spun cellulose fibers. Such a process is described in US-A-4,246,221 and uses as the solvent an aqueous tertiary amine N-oxide, particularly N-methylmorpholine N-oxide. Lyocell fibres are thereby distinguished from other man-made cellulose fibers, which themselves are produced by forming the cellulose into soluble chemical derivatives and then extruding a solution of this derivative into a bath that regenerates the extrudate as cellulose fibres; such as viscose fibers or modal fibers.
  • Modal fibre is a high wet modulus fibre produced using a modified version of the viscose process.
  • fibre is produced by extruding a solution of a cellulose derivative through very small spinneret holes and then precipitating the cellulose derivative by changing the pH and by converting the derivative back to cellulose.
  • Cellulose in the form of wood pulp is usually used as the starting material, although other sources of cellulose such as bamboo, cotton linters and cellulose materials gained from recycling processes are also used.
  • the wood pulp is steeped in sodium hydroxide and then reacted with carbon disulphide to convert it to cellulose xanthate.
  • the xanthate is dissolved in a sodium hydroxide solution to yield a viscous, golden coloured liquid which is commonly called viscose.
  • the viscose is de-aerated and filtered. It is then extruded through precious metal spinnerets into a spin-bath consisting of sulphuric acid, sodium sulphate and zinc sulphate.
  • the acid reacts with the sodium hydroxide in the viscose to cause precipitation of the cellulose xanthate.
  • the acid also reacts with the cellulose xanthate converting it back to cellulose.
  • the fibre While the newly formed fibre is still in a plastic state it is stretched to increase the orientation of the cellulose molecules with the axis of the fibre and encourage crystallisation.
  • the fibre may then be cut into lengths to form staple fibre or it may be kept as continuous filament or tow depending on the design of the spinning machine and the product required.
  • the fibre is washed to remove non-cellulose products of the reaction such as sodium sulphate and hydrogen sulphide, then finished with lubricants and anti-stats to aid downstream processing and finally dried.
  • non-cellulose products of the reaction such as sodium sulphate and hydrogen sulphide
  • Modern viscose plants are designed to recover as much of the by-products of the process as possible. This is essential to avoid environmental pollution and to ensure the safety of the workforce and surrounding community. Better recovery and recycling of by-products can also give a positive economic benefit.
  • the modal process is similar to the viscose process in most respects. It differs in that coagulation and stretching are achieved first using a spin-bath that consists of a lower concentration acid and no zinc sulphate.
  • the newly coagulated fibre which consists mainly of cellulose xanthate is stretched by up to three times. This causes the cellulose xanthate molecules to align parallel to one another.
  • the cellulose xanthate is then converted back to cellulose by further acid treatment.
  • An additive may also be mixed with the spinning solution to slow down the regeneration of the cellulose during spinning. Together with modified spin-bath and viscose composition, the additive allows the fibre to be stretched to a much greater extent than normal viscose. This gives a fibre with a higher orientation which is stronger than viscose and has a modulus closer to that of cotton.
  • Modal fibre is often used in blend with cotton to give softer fabrics than would be made with cotton alone. It is used widely in knitted fabrics for lingerie and ladies apparel.
  • Lyocell fibres are known to have a tendency to fibril late under relaxed wet abrasive conditions such as those present during vigorous dyeing and finishing processes, and various methods of dealing with this phenomenon have been proposed.
  • dyeing is carried out using relatively gentle processing, such as pad-dyeing of open width fabric, and applying a resin finishing treatment using a cross-linking agent is carried out on the dyed fabric to protect the fibres against fibrillation in subsequent laundering processes.
  • Another method of dealing with this fibrillation tendency is to treat the fabric so as to remove the relatively long protruding fibre ends which are formed in the first stage of the fibrillation process (so called “primary fibrillation”) and which otherwise produces a gross hairy effect, often matted, on the surface of the fabric and thereby disfigures its appearance.
  • primary fibrillation the relatively long protruding fibre ends which are formed in the first stage of the fibrillation process
  • secondary fibrillation the development of the shorter fibrils formed in the fibrillation process
  • These shorter fibrils create a surface finish characterized as being “clean”, in the sense of being substantially free from a hairy effect, and as having a soft touch imparted by the shorter fibrils on the surface and referred to as a “soft touch finish”.
  • the soft touch of the fabric is more pronounced and the soft touch finish is referred to as a “peach touch finish”.
  • a further example is described in GB-A-2, 314,568 and involves the use of the dyeing machine itself, for example a jet dyeing machine, to subject the lyocell fabric to an extended treatment with a solution of a strong mineral acid such as sulphuric acid for 30 to 120 minutes before rinsing the fabric and then commencing the dyeing sequence in the same machine.
  • a strong mineral acid such as sulphuric acid
  • One process used successfully in commercial processing involves a posttreatment of a lyocell fabric that has been subjected to a wet processing operation such as dyeing.
  • the protruding ends produced in primary fibrillation are removed in this post treatment by applying to the fabric a solution of a cellulase enzyme.
  • WO-A- 96/17994 discloses such a process.
  • the desired secondary fibrillation is developed in subsequent processing for example, in the dyeing process itself (if later) or in subsequent washing and drying steps using rotary tumbling machines, to produce a soft-touch finish on the surface of the fabric.
  • Cellulase enzyme treatments are successful in removing the long fibre ends produced in primary fibrillation from the surface of the fabric, but they are expensive both in terms of material costs and in terms of processing time.
  • a process was also developed to overcome these deficiencies and is described in WO-A-02/103104. It comprises a pre-treatment of a lyocell fabric carried out before the normal fibrillation inducing steps of dyeing (such as jet dyeing), washing and drying, using vigorous action on the fabric in at least one of those steps so as to produce fibrillation on the surface of the fabric, and it involves evenly impregnating the fabric with an aqueous solution of an acid or acid donor before heat treating it in a gaseous atmosphere to activate the action of the acid or acid donor.
  • the temperature ranges quoted for heat treatment are 120 - 220°C, preferably 140-200°C. This process is able to produce dyed and finished lyocell fabrics having a clean, soft touch finish, substantially free of visible crease marks.
  • Pilling is a surface defect of textiles due to abrasion and wear. It is caused by the ends of fibres from which the fabric is constructed working loose at the surface of the fabric. If one end of the fibre is gripped in the fabric, then the loose end has a tendency to roll up into a tangled ball. It may also combine with other nearby loose fibre ends to form larger tangled balls. These balls of fibre attached to the surface of the fabric are known as pills and their formation is known as pilling.
  • Pilling happens during washing and wearing of fabrics when loose fiber ends work out of the surface of the fabric. Then abrasion of the surface of the fabric in washing and when rubbed against other surfaces during wear causes the loose fiber ends to roll up into small bundles which are anchored to the surface of the fabric by fibers that are still forming part of the fabric. It is generally recognized that pilling occurs in four distinct stages which are fuzz formation, entanglement, growth, and wear-off.
  • Pilling is a problem if the pills become large enough to be visible and remain attached to the fabric by fibers that are still anchored in its structure. Pilling is affected by the design and construction of the fabric, the fibers used to make it, the way in which it is processed during manufacturing, the behavior of the wearer, and the environment where it is used. Stronger fibers are more likely to pill in use because the fibers holding the pills in place do not break easily to release the pills from the fabric surface. Fabrics made from synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon and acrylic tend to pill the most, but natural fiber fabrics such as wool and cotton also pill to some extent.
  • a fabric is more likely to pill if it consists of shorter fibers because there are more fiber ends than in a fabric made using longer fibers and because shorter fibers are less well anchored in the fabric and hence more likely to work loose. The more loose fibers there are in a fabric, the more likely it is that pills will form.
  • Pilling can be avoided by preventing the movement of fibres out of the surface of the fabric. This can be done by singeing the surface of the fabric to remove fibre ends protruding from the surface and by increasing the twist in the yarn to more firmly lock fibres into the fabric. Proprietary finishes and chemical treatments are available which can prevent or reduce pilling. Polymeric coatings can be used to bind fibers into the fabric surface and prevent the fibres from entangling at the surface of the fabric. Weak points are sometimes created in fibres so that when pills do form they are less likely to remain attached. The anchoring fibres break at the weak points releasing the pill. Cotton fabrics can be treated with cellulase enzymes to remove surface fibres and hence prevent pilling.
  • Modal and viscose fabrics may pill during dyeing and finishing and during subsequent wearing and care of garments made from them. Pilling may be controlled using the methods described above. Using higher twist yams and weaving or knitting tighter fabrics will reduce pilling. Anti-pill finishes may be applied to prevent pilling.
  • Pilling of these fabrics can be minimized during dyeing and finishing by using relatively gentle processing, such as pad dyeing of open width fabric and resin finishing with a crosslinking agent, usually carried out on a dyed fabric, to set the fibres and hence prevent them moving out of the fabric during subsequent laundering processes.
  • relatively gentle processing such as pad dyeing of open width fabric and resin finishing with a crosslinking agent, usually carried out on a dyed fabric, to set the fibres and hence prevent them moving out of the fabric during subsequent laundering processes.
  • Removing surface hairs from a modal and viscose fabric will also reduce the tendency to pill.
  • One way this can be done is by singeing the surface of the fabric by passing the fabric through a flame.
  • Modal and viscose fabrics may pill during dyeing and finishing and during subsequent wearing and care of garments made from them. Pilling may be controlled using the methods described above. Using higher twist yams and weaving or knitting tighter fabrics will reduce pilling. Anti-pill finishes may be applied to prevent pilling.
  • Pilling of the fabrics can be minimized during dyeing and finishing by using relatively gentle processing, such as pad dyeing of open width fabric and resin finishing with a crosslinking agent, usually carried out on a dyed fabric, to set the fibres and hence prevent them moving out of the fabric during subsequent laundering processes.
  • relatively gentle processing such as pad dyeing of open width fabric and resin finishing with a crosslinking agent, usually carried out on a dyed fabric, to set the fibres and hence prevent them moving out of the fabric during subsequent laundering processes.
  • Removing surface hairs from a modal or viscose fabric will also reduce the tendency to pill.
  • One way this can be done is by singeing the surface of the fabric by passing the fabric through a flame.
  • Cellulase enzyme treatment can be successful in removing the long fibre ends from the surface, but tend to be ineffective on both modal or viscose fabrics, plus they are expensive both in terms of material cost and in terms of processing time.
  • Ozone has a powerful oxidizing capacity, and has been found to have strong potential for decolourisation of textile dyes.
  • Commercial machines both garment processing machines and fabric preparation machines are now available in order to fade indigo-dyed garments by ozonation.
  • the present invention provides for a process for producing a dyed and finished man-made cellulosic fibre fabric or garment made from man-made cellulosic fibre fabric having a clean soft touch finish.
  • the invention comprises subjecting that man-made cellulosic fibre fabric to a wet processing treatment using mechanical action to induce fibrillation on the surface of the fabric and subsequently giving the fabric a tumbling treatment to develop the clean, soft touch finish wherein at a stage prior to the tumbling treatment, the fabric is additionally treated with ozone, i.e. subjected to impregnation with either a solution of ozone, or gaseous ozone, under controlled conditions.
  • ozone i.e. subjected to impregnation with either a solution of ozone, or gaseous ozone
  • the mechanical treatment action will induce fibrillation on the surface of the fabric in the case of lyocell or loosen surface fibers on modal and viscose.
  • the tumbling treatment will develop the clean, desired soft touch finish.
  • the ozone treatment may take place before, during or after the wet processing treatment.
  • the fabric is in an undyed state prior to the ozone treatment.
  • the clean soft touch finish comprises in short lyocell fibrils on the fibre surface that are not sufficiently long to entangle or shortened hairs on the viscose/modal fabric surface that are not sufficiently long to entangle to form pills. This is shown in the figures attached.
  • the ozone can be effective if generated in situ, for instance by impregnating the fabric in hydrogen peroxide and subsequent exposure of the impregnated fabric with high intensity UV light.
  • the process of invention may be applied to woven and knitted lyocell or modal or viscose fabrics in the length. It may also be applied to manufactured garments and piece goods made from lyocell, modal or viscose fabrics, for which it is especially useful.
  • the effect of the ozone treatment seems to be one of weakening the surface fibres of the lyocell fabric so that the relatively long fibres formed during the intensive wet processing phase are more easily removed in the normal course of later processing steps.
  • the ozone treatment is done by introducing ozone enriched air into a closed mechanical treatment chamber containing the fabric and in which the fabric is then mechanically treated during the ozone treatment time. Afterwards the ozone is purged from the chamber prior to removing the fabric.
  • the mechanical treatment shall be either tumbling or an open-width treatment.
  • the mechanical treatment chamber may be either a tumbling chamber or a chamber wherein the fabric will be treated open-width.
  • the ozone treatment is done using gaseous ozone at a concentration of 5 g ozone/Nm 3 to 200 g ozone/Nm 3 in atmospheric air, or more preferably at a concentration of 20 g ozone/Nm 3 to 150 g ozone/Nm 3 , and at a temperature between 5°C and 40°C for a minimum time of 5 minutes and a maximum time of 75 minutes.
  • the fabric is moist at the start of and during the ozone treatment having a moisture content in the range 40% to 90% (w/w), preferably in the range 40% to 75% (w/w).
  • the machine takes the form of a large commercial washing machine.
  • the garments are placed in a horizontal metal drum called a tumbler.
  • ozone is always generated onsite by an ozone generator.
  • ozone is generated by coronadischarge, the advantage being greater sustainability, higher ozone production and higher cost affectivity.
  • the tumbling machine is equipped with an ozone generator which uses electric power to charge the oxygen molecules to the incoming air and thus generate ozone. This coronadischarge ruptures the stable oxygen molecule and forms two oxygen radicals. These radicals can combine with oxygen molecules to form ozone.
  • the resulting ozone is injected into the closed tumbler drum containing the garments made from lyocell fabrics.
  • Exposure time to the ozone depends upon the weight of garments in the drum.
  • the remaining ozone is exhausted from the machine to be decomposed into oxygen.
  • a catalytic ozone decomposition system such as a “carulite®” filter.
  • the ozone will be decomposed by a chemical reaction happening in the filter.
  • the ozone generation is exactly the same as in the garment route.
  • the fabric is treated open-width with the fabric travelling over numerous rollers within a closed compartment.
  • the unit can be a “standalone” with the fabric travelling from A-frame to A-frame through the sealed compartment, or it can be part of an open-width fabric preparation line.
  • the treatment conditions for gaseous ozone take account of fabric weight, processing time and ozone concentration.
  • the ozone treatment is done by impregnating the fabric with an aqueous solution of ozone and then subjected to the mechanical treatment.
  • the ozone is going to be generated in situ.
  • the fabric may be evenly impregnated with a solution of hydrogen peroxide using any of the conventional techniques for applying liquids to fabric.
  • Fabric in the length may be passed in open width through a pad bath of the aqueous solution, usually with a wet pick up of the solution in the range 65-80% by weight of fabric.
  • the ozone is then generated by exposing the impregnated fabric to high intensity UV light with gaseous extraction and thereafter subjected to the mechanical treatment.
  • the fabric is preferably subjected to a desizing or scouring operation prior to the ozone application.
  • This desizing or scouring may be a conventional operation in which the fabric is passed through a scouring bath to remove the size or lubricant.
  • the ozone treatment is carried out as a pre-treatment before further wet processing steps. If the ozone treatment is carried out on fabric prior to the normal wet processes such as jet dyeing it has surprisingly been found that much less mechanical and chemical action is needed to generate the desired clean soft touch finish. It is no longer necessary to utilize cellulase enzymes for instance.
  • the ozone treatment is preferably carried out as a pre-treatment before the fibrillation inducing step on lyocell. The latter step is a wet processing step in which mechanical action exerted on the wet fabric causes fibrillation to occur on the fabric surface.
  • This fibrillation is of the so-called primary fibrillation type in which relatively long protruding fibre ends are produced to give what would be an unsightly, hairy effect on the fabric surface if the fibre ends were to remain in place.
  • the effect of the ozone treatment is to reduce the strength of these fibre ends, so that they are removed from the fabric surface during processing.
  • the wet processing treatment include a dyeing step.
  • this may be a jet dyeing operation using commercial water driven jet dyeing machines or air jet dyeing machines.
  • this may be a rotary drum dyeing operation.
  • dyes and dye recipes for cellulosic fibres may be used in the process of the invention, including those based on direct, vat, sulphur and reactive dyes.
  • indigo dyed yarns may be used as the base for the fabric in a denim type application.
  • the dyed fabric After being washed to remove any unfixed dye, the dyed fabric may be given one or more conventional finishing treatments including application of a softening finish. These may be carried out after the dyeing and washing processes without the need for intermediate dyeing of the fabric.
  • the surface of the dyed fabric does not yet have the desired clean, soft touch finish. It may remain flat and slightly uneven in appearance, possibly with some adherent lint.
  • the fabric is given a tumbling treatment, sometimes referred to as a beating treatment, which raises the secondary fibrillation in an even nap over the fabric surface.
  • This treatment preferably is carried out as a dry treatment i.e. without added liquid - however with the fabric in humid state - and may be the step in which the fabric is given its final drying.
  • fabrics, but in particular garments and piece goods may be given an extended tumbling treatment in a rotary tumbling machine such as a tumble drier.
  • Tumble driers usually operate at temperatures of between 70 and 100°C, often between 70 and 85°C.
  • Fabric in rope form may be given a tumbling treatment in a fabric rope tumbler such as a Biancalani Airo.
  • Tumbling times for a fabric rope should be 30-60 minutes, preferably 40-50 minutes.
  • the air temperature to be used shall be 50-150°C. A shorter duration will result in incomplete removal of the fibrils; a longer duration is not needed to obtain the desired results and would not be feasible economically (a waste of time and money... ).
  • the wet processing step may be a dyeing process involving mechanical action on the fabric, one example being jet dyeing in which the fabric, in rope form, is propelled through a dyeing machine under the influence of jets of liquor and is thereby subjected to vigorous action, as by bending and twisting forces and impact and abrasive forces against machine surfaces.
  • the dry lyocell fabric produced by the process of the invention is a dyed fabric having a clean, soft touch finish.
  • the uniform, soft nap on the fabric surface imparts an attractive handle to the fabric and a subtle lustrous appearance, sometimes referred to as a frosted effect.
  • the fabric surface may be characterized as having a peach touch finish.
  • the dry modal or viscose fabric produced by the process of the invention is a dyed fabric having a clean, soft touch finish characterised in that it has a low propensity to pill during subsequent wearing of garments made from it and during laundering of said garments.
  • the uniform clean finish of the fabric surface imparts an attractive appearance to the fabric which is maintained throughout the life of garments made from it.
  • another aspect of the present invention is fabric or garment finished using a process as described above according to the invention and which has a clean soft touch finish.
  • a peach touch finish and a frosted effect both can be considered specific embodiments of a clean soft touch finish.
  • Embodiment 1 Garment Process Route:
  • the process is applied to fabric in the form of garments prior to the garment dyeing. Application of this process prior to dyeing I washing avoids any negative fibrillation issues.
  • Embodiment 2 Fabric Process Route:
  • Ozone can be used in combination with a number of fabric preparation systems (herein referred to as systems A - D) as indicated below in the table 1.
  • systems A - D fabric preparation systems
  • Bleach is typically a cold pad batch treatment carried out at 20-25°C with the following concentrations in the bleaching liquid: 60g/l Hydrogen Peroxide (35%), 40g/l Caustic Soda (100%), 4g/l Wetting detergent, 4g/l Peroxide stabilizer.
  • Causticisation refers to treatment of the fabric in open width form in 6° Baume NaOH with the sequence: Padding, dwelling and washing in open width.
  • Mercerization refers to treatment of fabric in 30° Baume NaOH, with the sequence: Padding, dwelling, and washing in open width.
  • the ozone treatment may be carried out on a G2 Dynamic ozone machine after all the fabric treatments listed in Table 1 : Running Speed is 10-30m/minute, ozone power 30g ozone/Nm 3 .
  • the fabric thus treated can now be dyed as fabric and made up into garments for washing or made up into garments in the undyed form and dyed as a garment.
  • Fabrics and garments processed according to this invention show the same visual appearance as fabrics and garments treated by normal commercial routes for obtaining a clear, soft touch finish.
  • the method according to this invention has less environmental impact than the well-known normal commercial routes (such as caustic, mercerization and enzyme treatments).
  • Fig. 1 shows the lyocell fabric before ozone modification - note the surface hairs.
  • Fig. 2 shows the lyocell fabric after washing without ozone modification - note the high level of fibrillation and subsequent entanglement of the fibrils and hairs.
  • Fig. 3 shows the fabric after washing having been pre-treated in ozone according to the invention. Note the absence of pilled fibres and the presence only of short fibrils on the fabric surface.
  • Fig.4 shows a viscose fabric without an ozone treatment - note the untidy pilled appearance of the fabric surface.
  • Fig. 4a shows the fabric face view and
  • Fig. 4b shows an edge view.
  • Fig.5 is the same fabric, washed in an identical manner, but having had a pretreatment in ozone. Note the cleaner surface appearance.
  • Fig. 5a shows the fabric face view and Fig. 5b shows an edge view.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de production d'un tissu de fibres cellulosiques artificielles colorées et finies ayant une finition tactile douce propre, consistant à soumettre le tissu à un traitement de traitement par voie humide à l'aide d'une action mécanique et à donner au tissu un traitement de culbutage, caractérisé en ce que le tissu est en outre traité avec de l'ozone. En outre, l'invention concerne un tissu ou un vêtement fini à l'aide de ce procédé et qui a une finition tactile douce propre.
PCT/EP2024/060639 2023-04-21 2024-04-18 Traitement à l'ozone de tissus en fibres synthétiques cellulosiques Pending WO2024218257A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202480026242.XA CN120958191A (zh) 2023-04-21 2024-04-18 纤维素人造纤维织物的臭氧处理

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EP23169280.7 2023-04-21
EP23169280 2023-04-21

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4246221A (en) 1979-03-02 1981-01-20 Akzona Incorporated Process for shaped cellulose article prepared from a solution containing cellulose dissolved in a tertiary amine N-oxide solvent
WO1995030043A1 (fr) 1994-05-03 1995-11-09 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Traitement d'une etoffe en fibre lyocell (fibre de cellulose tissee dans un solvant), destine a reduire la tendance de cette fibre a la fibrillation
WO1996017994A1 (fr) 1994-12-05 1996-06-13 Novo Nordisk A/S Procede de production d'une etoffe en matiere textile cellulosique a tendance reduite au boulochage
WO1997030204A1 (fr) 1996-02-14 1997-08-21 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Procede permettant d'affaiblir la tendance de tissu lyocellulaire a une fibrillation primaire
GB2314568A (en) 1996-06-28 1998-01-07 Courtaulds Fibres Fibre finishing treatment
WO2002103104A2 (fr) 2001-06-15 2002-12-27 Tencel Limited Teinture et finissage de fibres lyocell

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4246221A (en) 1979-03-02 1981-01-20 Akzona Incorporated Process for shaped cellulose article prepared from a solution containing cellulose dissolved in a tertiary amine N-oxide solvent
WO1995030043A1 (fr) 1994-05-03 1995-11-09 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Traitement d'une etoffe en fibre lyocell (fibre de cellulose tissee dans un solvant), destine a reduire la tendance de cette fibre a la fibrillation
WO1996017994A1 (fr) 1994-12-05 1996-06-13 Novo Nordisk A/S Procede de production d'une etoffe en matiere textile cellulosique a tendance reduite au boulochage
WO1997030204A1 (fr) 1996-02-14 1997-08-21 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Procede permettant d'affaiblir la tendance de tissu lyocellulaire a une fibrillation primaire
GB2314568A (en) 1996-06-28 1998-01-07 Courtaulds Fibres Fibre finishing treatment
WO2002103104A2 (fr) 2001-06-15 2002-12-27 Tencel Limited Teinture et finissage de fibres lyocell

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