WO2024243657A1

WO2024243657A1 - Hair cosmetic compositions, methods and uses for providing improved curls definition to the hair and for treating hair

Info

Publication number: WO2024243657A1
Application number: PCT/BR2023/050178
Authority: WO
Inventors: Cyrus ANDRIOLO; Bruna CONRADO; Gizele FREITAS
Original assignee: Guimaraes Joao; LOreal SA
Current assignee: Guimaraes Joao; LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-05-31
Filing date: 2023-05-31
Publication date: 2024-12-05
Anticipated expiration: 2025-11-30
Also published as: FR3149192A1

Abstract

The present invention is directed to hair care compositions, comprising at least one organic acid, at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group, at least one amino acid, at least one vegetal resin, and water. The invention is also related to a method for providing long lasting improved curls definition to the hair and a method of treating hair, particularly curly hair as well as the use of the cosmetic composition for improving curls definition or for treating curly hair.

Description

HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, METHODS AND USES FOR PROVIDING IMPROVED CURLS DEFINITION TO THE HAIR AND FOR TREATING HAIR

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to hair cosmetic compositions comprising at least one organic acid, at least one compound with at least one hydroxylgroup, at least one amino acid, at least one fatty compound, at least one gluconamide and water. The invention is also related to a method for providing long lasting improved curls definition to the hair and a method of treating hair, particularly curly hair, as well as the use of the cosmetic composition for improving curls definition or for treating curly hair.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

People have been using several cosmetic and personal care compositions to enhance the look and feel of keratin fibers, such as the hair.

Particularly regarding curly hair, consumers are always dealing with problems related to the definition and lasting of the curls such as frizz, volume and shape. Curly hair tends to become frizzy and significantly expand in volume when exposed to high humidity conditions, chemical treatments, among others. Additionally, the shape and definition of the curls are lost after sleeping.

Many attempts to develop products to discipline, define and control the hair, in particular curly hair, enhancing/maintaining curl definition, curl retention, and curl regularity, without leaving the hair feeling and/or looking unnatural and stiff were made, but such products resulted in additional problems or maintenance difficulty.

For example, the products of the state of the art usually require high amount of product to give good combing and hair feel. But, considering that the effect of such products is not long lasting, the consumers have to reapply the product several times during the day or after sleeping in order to regain definition and frizz control, resulting in the build-up of the product on the hair’s surface, resulting in a heavy aspect, wet look, unnatural touch and greasy sensation, since such products do not penetrate the keratin fibers and remain on the surface of the hair fiber.

In this sense, there is a need in the market for curly hair products that define the curls in a lasting way, without the necessity of reapplying the product until the next wash or after sleeping, also decreasing the need to use large amounts of the product between the washes. Additionally, the standard curly hair routine includes the use of several cosmetic products through the entire length of the hair and must be reset every two days, since the curls tend to lose definition and fresh-looking aspect after such period - it is a very time-consuming routine that involves the consumers restarting all the steps in about every two days, including washing the hair and applying different cosmetic products.

Thus, based on the market’s needs, wherein there is no specific mention of hair cosmetic products, the inventors of the present invention surprisingly and unexpectedly achieved long lasting hair cosmetic compositions comprising (a) at least one organic acid, (b) at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group, (c) at least one amino acid, (d) at least one fatty compound, (e) at least one gluconamide, and (f) water that are able to penetrate the hair fiber without building-up on the fiber’s surface, while also providing curl definition until the next wash, long lasting definition of the curls and improved combing/detangling, frizz control, natural look and desirable volume, that leave the hair shiny and that is easy to apply and that does not look heavy on the hair. There is also the need for the cosmetic hair cosmetic product for curly hair to reduce the quantity of products used by the consumer, and to prolong the effects of the composition so the consumer may gain extra days before having to restart the curly hair cosmetic routine.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to hair cosmetic compositions comprising (a) at least one organic acid, (b) at least one compound with at least one hydroxylgroup, (c) at least one amino acid, (d) at least one fatty compound, (e) at least one gluconamide, and (f) water, that are able to penetrate the hair fiber without building-up on the fiber’s surface, while also providing curl definition until the next wash, long lastingness of the definition of the curls and improved combing/detangling, frizz control, natural look and desirable volume, and that does not look or feel heavy on the hair.

Also, the present invention also relates to a method and use of the composition for providing long lasting improved curls definition to the hair and a method and use for treating hair, particularly curly hair.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Figure 1 relates to a curl definition score at 3 different moments: T24 (after 24 hours), TAT (after touch) and TAP (after combing) of tartaric acid with at least one gluconamide at different weight ratios in comparison to a commercial benchmark and tartaric acid alone at different concentrations.

Figure 2 relates to a combing test of tartaric acid with at least one gluconamide at different concentrations in comparison to a commercial benchmark and 3% tartaric acid, wherein the lower the friction on the curl, the better the result of the product.

Figure 3 relates to a comparison of other organic acids with at least one gluconamide at different weight ratios with a placebo and different organic acids alone.

Figure 4 relates to an image of a strand of hair after application of a composition of 3% tartaric acid alone and tartaric acid with at least one gluconamide comparing curl definition.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to a hair cosmetic composition, mainly for curly hair, comprising:

(a) at least one organic acid;

(b) at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group;

(c) at least one amino acid;

(d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof;

(e) at least one gluconamide, and

(f) water.

In an embodiment, the at least one organic acid is selected from short chain organic acids, preferably a-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids, and a mixture thereof. In an embodiment, the at least one organic acid of the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Also, the amount of the at least one organic acid ranges from about 0.001 % to about 7.0 % by weight, preferably from about 0.5 % to about 6.0 % by weight, more preferably from about 1 .0 % to about 5.0 % by weight, even more preferably from about 2.0 % to about 4.0 % by weight, and most preferably from about 3.0 % to about 4.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The hair care composition according to the present invention also comprises at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group. Without being limited to any one theory, it is believed that the at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group acts as a penetrating agent, that is, a compound that is capable of forming the dipole-dipole interaction with the keratin fibers, such as hair, and binding to polar sites on the surface of said keratin fiber and decrease the shielding, thus promoting penetration of the hair care composition into the keratin fibers.

In an embodiment, the at least one compound with at least one hydroxylgroup of the hair care composition of the present invention is selected from polyol, C2 to Ce monoalcohols, and a mixture thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one compound with at least one hydroxylgroup of the hair care composition of the present invention is selected from polyols. In an embodiment, the polyol is a glycol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the polyol comprises propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. In an embodiment, the polyol is propylene glycol.

In an embodiment, the at least one compound with at least one hydroxylgroup of the hair care composition of the present invention is selected from C2 to Ce monoalcohols. In an embodiment, the C2 to Ce monoalcohols include ethanol and/or propanol and/or butanol and/or hexanol.

In an embodiment, the at least one compound with at least one hydroxylgroup of the hair care composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of polyols and C2 to Ce monoalcohols. In an embodiment, the at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the hair care composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol and ethanol. In an embodiment, the at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the hair care composition of the present invention comprises dipropylene glycol and ethanol. In an embodiment, the at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the hair care composition of the present invention comprises glycerin and ethanol.

The amount of the at least one compound with at least one hydroxylgroup ranges from about 0.1 % to about 20.0 % by weight, preferably from about 0.3 % to about 15.0 % by weight, or from about 0.5 % to about 12.0 % by weight, or from about 0.5 % to about 11 .0 % by weight, or from about 1 .0 % to about 11 .0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, according to the present invention, the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine. In a further embodiment, the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine.

In a further embodiment, the at least one amino acid is selected from glycine.

In a further embodiment, the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine and glycine.

The amount of the at least one amino acid ranges from about 0.1 % to about 7.0 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 6.0 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5.0 % by weight, even more preferably from about 0.5 % to about 4.0 % weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Other suitable ranges are from about 0.5 % to about 3.0 % by weight, or from about 0.7 % to about 2 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from Copaiba Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) resin (oil resin or resin form).

In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound includes coconut oil.

In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound includes Soja Soybean oil.

In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes Copaiba Resin, Brazilian nut oil, Candeia resin, and white breu resin.

In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof is copaiba resin.

In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes copaiba resin and coconut oil, and Soja Soybean oil.

In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes copaiba resin and coconut oil.

In a further embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof, and includes Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof, and includes Candelilla wax.

In another embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof and includes Carnauba wax.

In another embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof, and includes beeswax. The amount of the at least one fatty compound ranges from about 0.1 % to about 15.0 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 7.0 % by weight, preferably from about 0.15 % to about 5.0 % by weight, preferably from about 0.17 % to about 4.0 % by weight, or such as at about 0.1 , about 0.17, about 0.2, about 0.3, about 0.36, about 0.4, about 0.5 to about 4.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one natural oil, in an amount ranging from about 0.1 % to about 7.0 % by weight, preferably from about 1 % to about 6.0 % by weight, preferably from about 2.0 % to about 5.0 % by weight, preferably from about 3.0 % to about 4.8 % by weight, or such as at about 0.1 , about 0.2, about 0.3, about 0.36, about 0.4, about 0.5 to about 4.8 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, a particular component for use in the present invention is at least one gluconamide, preferably hydroxypropyl gluconamide containing or not at least one salt thereof. When the salt of said at least one gluconamide is present, the salt can be selected from alkyl ammonium gluconate, for example, hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate.

The amount of at least one gluconamide ranges from about 0.1 % to about 10.0 % by weight, preferably from about 0.3 % to about 5.0% by weight, or from about 0.9 % to about 1.9, or from 0.4 % to about 1.9% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise water in an amount ranging from about 30% to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight, and most preferably from about 60% to about 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition. Organic Acid

The at least one organic acid of the compositions can be selected from alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, and a mixture thereof.

The term "alpha-hydroxy acid" is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha-position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group). A beta-hydroxy acid is closely related to an alpha-hydroxy acid except the carboxylic and hydroxyl functional groups are separated by two carbon atoms. A hydroxy acid can be present in the final composition in the form of the free acid and/or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali metal, in particular), especially according to the final pH imposed on the composition.

The alpha hydroxy acid present in the composition, according to the disclosure, includes, but is not limited to, one or more of tartaric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2- hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2- hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, their salts and their mixtures. It is also possible to use mixtures of these various acids.

In some embodiments, the composition includes alpha hydroxy acids comprising glycolic acid and one or more of glutaric acid, etidronic acid, and lactic acid. When combined, the more than one alpha hydroxy acids may be present in the same or in different amounts.

The beta hydroxy acid, when present in the composition according to the disclosure, includes, but is not limited to, one or more of salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract), beta hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, citric acid and trethocanic acid.

In some embodiments, the composition includes tartaric acid.

Compound With At Least One Hydroxyl-Group

The compound with at least one hydroxyl-group can be selected from polyols, and/or C2 to Ce monoalcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.

Further non-limiting examples include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4- pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1 ,2- pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, isopropanol, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the compound with at least one hydroxyl-group may be selected from the group consisting of one or more glycols, C1 -4 alcohols, glycerin, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the compound with at least one hydroxyl-group is selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, isopropyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1 ,6-hexanediol, 2- methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof.

Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include the aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1 ,2-butanediol, 2 ,2-diethy 1-1 ,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4- pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1 ,2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1 ,3- hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.

Amino Acid

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. As used herein, the term “amino acid” includes amino acids such as proteinogenic amino acids, amino sulfonic acids, and salts thereof.

Amino acids are simple organic compounds containing both a carboxylic acid group ( — COOH) and an amino group ( — NH2). Amino sulfonic acids are simple organic compounds containing both a sulfonic acid group ( — SO2OH) and an amino group ( — NH2). Accordingly, the amino acids useful according to the disclosure may, in certain embodiments, be selected from compounds of Formula (I) and Formula (II):

wherein:

- R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O’ and M⁺, and S(O)2-O’ and M⁺, with M⁺ representing a cationic counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, and

- n is 0 or 1 .

The amino acids may be in their non-ionized form (I) and (II) or in their ionized or betaine form (I’) and (II’):

wherein R and n are as defined above.

The one or more amino acids may also be in their conjugate base form (lb) and (lib):

wherein R and n are as defined above. Well-known amino acids include the twenty amino acids that form the proteins of living organisms (standard proteinogenic amino acids): alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. The amino acids of the instant disclosure, however, are not limited to the standard proteinogenic amino acids.

Non-limiting examples of amino sulfonic acids include aminomethane sulfonic acid, 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, charged amino acids may be used. Non-limiting examples of charged amino acids include arginine, lysine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid. In some cases, polar amino acids are useful. Non-limiting examples of polar amino acids include glutamine, asparagine, histidine, serine, threonine, tyrosine, cysteine, methionine, and tryptophan.

In some cases, hydrophobic amino acids may be employed. Non-limiting examples of hydrophobic amino acids include alanine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, valine, proline, and glycine.

FATTY COMPOUND

The at least one fatty compound of the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may be selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Vegetal Resin

In an embodiment the at least one fatty compound of the present invention comprises at least one vegetal resin.

Preferably, the vegetal resin of the present invention is Copaifera officinalis (BALSAM COPAIBA) RESIN (INCI name) which can be in the form of a Copaiba oil resin or Copaiba resin. Copaifera officinalis (BALSAM COPAIBA) RESIN is commercially available under the tradename of RAIN FOREST RF3310 (also known by the chemical name of Copaiba Oleoresin) or under the tradename of RAIN FOREST 03370 (also known by the chemical name of Copaiba resin), both from the supplier Clariant.

Natural Oil

In a non-limitative and preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one natural oil, which is selected from coconut oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, avocado oil, , camelina oil, coffee oil, castor oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, clary sage, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander, costmary oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, dill oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, grapeseed oil, henna oil, horseradish oil, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass, marjoram, melaleuca, lemon balm oil, mountain savory, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle, neem tree oil, neroli, nutmeg, orange oil, oregano oil, orris oil, palo santo, parsley oil, peppermint oil, pine oil, plum oil, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, spruce, star anise oil, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the suitable natural oils for use in the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention are selected from coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, wheatgerm oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, hazel nut oil, colza oil, cade oil, peach kernel oil, jojoba oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, and mixtures thereof.

When present, the natural oil can improve the penetration effect.

In a preferred embodiment, the at least one natural-based ingredient of the present invention is coconut oil, that is mainly composed by Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Caprylic Acid, Capric Acid. Other oils with the same composition could apply on the invention, such as Babassu oil and Murumuru butter.

In a preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise a mixture of vegetal oils and vegetal resins, such as coconut oil and Copaiba Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba resin) (copaiba resin or copaiba oil resin).

The pH of the hair care composition of the present invention is from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 1.5 to about 8, or from about 2 to about 7. To achieve lasting of definition, the pH is about 2.5 to about 6, preferably from about 3 to about 5, more preferably from about 3 to about 4.

At least one Gluconamide

A particular component for use in the present invention comprises at least one gluconamide.

In an embodiment, the at least one gluconamide contains or not at least one salt thereof.

When the salt of said at least one gluconamide is present, the salt can be selected from alkyl ammonium gluconate, for example, a hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate. In an embodiment, the present invention comprises a mixture of hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate.

The inventors of the present invention discovered that the use of gluconamide in association with at least one organic acid delivered long lasting curl definition and improved combing/detangling.

Water

The hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention comprise water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from llriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les- Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from EauxBonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene. Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.

The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise water in an amount ranging from about 30% to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 6550 to about 95% by weight, and most preferably from about 60% to about 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.

Additional Ingredients In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the hair care composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, vitamins, vegetal extracts, pH-adjusters, organic solvents, surfactants, silicones, and mixtures thereof.

In another embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition further comprises at least one surfactant selected from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof includes at least one cationic surfactant. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary ammonium salts such as cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and from cationizable surfactants, for example, amido amine compounds such as oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearam idopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenam idoethyldiethyl-am ine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristam idopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palm itam idopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition further comprises at least one surfactant selected from cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof includes at least one nonionic surfactant. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from fatty alcohols.

In an embodiment, the at least one surfactant includes at least one cationic surfactant selected from behetrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicam idopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and at least one nonionic surfactant selected from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. When the optionally at least one surfactant includes an amido amine such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine or brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, a pH adjuster agent such as triethanolamine may be included in the composition.

The amount of the at least one surfactant selected from cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof ranges from about 0.0% to about 10.0 % by weight, preferably from about 0.5 % to about 9.0 % by weight, preferably from about 0.5 % to about 8.0 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 % to about 7 % by weight, from about 0.5% to about 6.0 %, from about 0.5 % to about 5.0 % by weight, including all ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.

Individually, each surfactant may be present in an amount such as about 0.05 %, about 0.5%, about 1.0 %, about 1.5 %, about 1.8 %, about 2.4 %, about 3.0 %, about 3.5 %, about 4.0 %, about 5.0 %, about 5.5 %, about 6.0 %, about 6.5 %, about 7.0, about 7.5 %, about 8.0 %, about 8.5 %, about 9.0 %, about 9.5 %, about 10. 0%, about 10.5%, about 11 .0 %, about 11 .5 %, about 12.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the at least one surfactant is at least one cationic surfactant ranging from about 0.1 % to about 10.0 % by weight, such as from about 1.0 % to about 10.0 % by weight, from about 1.4 % to about 9.0 % by weight, from about 1 .4 % to about 8.0 % by weight, from about 1 .4 % to about 6.0 % by weight, from about 2.0 to about 6.0 % by weight, from about 2.4 to about 6.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the at least one surfactant is at least one nonionic surfactant selected from at least one fatty alcohol ranging from about 0.1 to about 12.0 % by weight, such as from about 3.0 to about 12.0 % by weight, from about 4.0 % to about 12.0 % by weight, from about 5.0 % to about 10.0 % by weight, from about 6.0 % to about 9.0 % by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition further comprises a fatty alcohol selected from the group of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one ester, which may be selected from isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl esters, and mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one silicone, which may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

The additional ingredients may represent from about 1 % to about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.

Terms

As used herein, "cosmetic" composition refers to a composition that is not rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of the composition onto the hair, and before drying and/or styling said hair.

The term “hair cosmetic composition” as used herein can also be a hair styling or a hair shaping or a hair care composition.

As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.

As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc. The term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. Nonetheless, the compositions may include less than about 2 wt.%, less than about 1 wt.%, less than about 0.5 wt.%, less than about 0.1 wt.%, less than 0.01 wt.%, or none of the specified material.

Throughout the disclosure, the term “a combination thereof” (or a mixture thereof) may be used following a list of elements as shown in the following example where letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a combination thereof.” The term, “a combination thereof” does not require that the combination include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a combination of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a combination of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”

Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.” Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a combination thereof,” it indicates that one or more of

A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a combination of any two of A,

B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.

Some of the compounds discussed throughout the disclosure may be in the form of a salt in the composition or added to the composition in the form of a salt (and dissociate in the composition). Thus, all compounds and amounts of compounds relate to both the salt form of the compound and to the disassociated form of the compound. In other words, even if the expression “a salt thereof” is not specifically or expressly stated with respect to ingredients that can form salts or are available as salts, it is understood that the salt form of the compound is included.

The expression "inclusive" for a range of concentrations means that the limits of the range are included in the defined interval. The term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.

All components and elements positively set forth in this disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.

Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two components that overlap), an overlapping component or ingredient does not represent more than one component. For example, if a polyacrylate falls within the description of a thickening polymer and within the description of film forming polymer, the specifically recited polyacrylate is understood as being only the thickening polymer or only the film forming polymer. A specific polyacrylate cannot simultaneously be construed as both a thickening polymer and a film forming polymer, for example, when the claims set forth both a thickening polymer and a film forming polymer (even though the polyacrylate may function as both a thickening polymer and a film forming polymer). In other words, a single compound or ingredient cannot simultaneously serve as two different components of a claimed composition.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure controls.

Process For Manufacturing A Cosmetic Hair Composition

The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention can be manufactured from conventional cosmetic processes. An illustrative process comprises the following steps:

- Step (1 ): adding from 30 % to 80 % of water and the at least one organic acid, and mixing for about 10 minutes at room temperature; - Step (2): adding the at least one amino acid and hydroxypropyl gluconamide, mixing the ingredients until complete solubilization;

- Step (4): adding the at least one compound with at least one active compound, at least one vegetal resin, and optional natural oil, heating until about 65 °C to about 75°C for about 10 to about 15 minutes.

- Step (5): adding water into the mixture and cooling down.

- Step (6): adding additional ingredients (if present), solvents and fragrance cooling down until about 25 °C, adjusting the pH (if necessary) with a pH adjuster.

EMBODIMENTS

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is used as a cosmetic product to control frizz, improve curl definition, curl regularity and discipline, long lasting definition without build up, among other attributes.

In a preferred embodiment, the hair care composition of the present invention comprises:

(a) from about 0.001 % to about 7.0 % by weight of at least one organic acid selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and a mixture thereof;

(b) from about 0.1 % to about 20.0 % by weight of at least one hydroxyl-group selected from polyols, C2 to Ce monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof;

(c) from about 0.1 % to about 7.0 % by weight of at least one amino acid;

(d) from about 0.1 % to about 15.0 % by weight of at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof;

(e) from about 0.1 to about 10%, by weight of at least one gluconamide, and

(f) from about 30.0 % to about 99%, by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the composition.

Another preferred embodiment of the haircare composition of the present invention comprises:

(a) from about 0.5 % to about 6.0 % by weight of at least one organic acid selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and a mixture thereof; (b) from about 0.3 % to about 15.0 % by weight of of at least one hydroxyl-group selected from polyols, C2 to Ce monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof;

(c) from about 0.1 % to about 6.0% by weight of at least one amino acid;

(d) from about 0.1 % to about 7.0 % by weight of at least one vegetal resin;

(e) from about 0.3 % to about 5.0 %, by weight of at least one gluconamide;

(f) from about 30.0 % to about 70.0 %, by weight, of water, and

(g) optionally, from about 0.1 % to about 7.0 % by weight of at least one natural oil, based on the total weight of the composition.

Moreover, the present invention is directed to a method for providing lasting improved curls definition to the hair, wherein the method comprises contacting the hair with the hair cosmetic cosmetic composition of the invention.

Examples 1 to 6

Suitable hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are as Examples 1 to 5, as follows:

Examples 6 to 8

Other suitable hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are as Examples 6 to 8, as follows:

Other suitable hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are as Examples 9 to 13, as follows:

Examples 14 to 18

Other suitable hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are as Examples 14 to 18, as follows:

Examples 19 to 23

Other suitable hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are as Examples 19 to 23, as follows:

TESTS

Test 1 - Durability and Curl Definition

An in vitro test was conducted to evaluate the durability and curl definition obtained with the hair cosmetic composition of Examples 2-4, 6-7, 9-15 and 22-26 according to the present invention in comparison to a benchmark product. The benchmark product comprises a hydroalcoholic medium without items (a) and (e), i.e. , without the organic acid and hydroxypropyl gluconamide and at least one salt thereof (e).

For this purpose, a curl definition score test was performed. This test is an image analysis in which the equipment generates an algorithm based on photos taken of the curls after application of the product at three different times (T24, TAT and TAP). After analyzing the images, a score from 0 to 10 is generated. The higher the score, the more defined the curl.

T24 - after 24h: applying the product to the hair and letting it dry for 24h;

TAT - after touch: reproduction of the moment of running fingers through the hair after the product and the hair has dried to let looser curls;

TAP - after combing: bunch stress simulation, e.g., when the hair is dry combed to verify the durability of the curl and how much of that curl is held using the present composition.

Comparative tests were made with a benchmark product in comparison with the present composition in the proportions of tartaric acid (TA):gluconamide (GL) in the weight ratios between 3:1 and 2:1. The at least one gluconamide comprises a mixture of hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate.

In addition, this test was carried out with only tartaric acid at concentrations of 2% and 3%.

In Figure 1 , the bars corresponding to the proportions of tartaric acid (TA): gluconamide (GL) in the weight ratios of 3:1 and 2:1 showed a significant better result relative to the benchmark product and acid tartaric alone, demonstrating that the curl definition score after the application of the inventive compositions provided long lasting improved curls at the TAT and TAP moments (after touch to simulate the normal touching of hair throughout the day and after combing, respectively).

Test 2 - Combing Test

Another test was conducted in vitro to evaluate the durability and curl definition with the inventive compositions after combing the hair (friction) according to Examples of the present invention, in comparison to a benchmark composition comprising aqua, cetearyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, dimethiconol, glycerin, lactic acid, parfum, paraffinum liquidum, methylparaben, petrolatum, dmdm hydantoin, disodium EDTA, polyoxymethylene melamine, cocos nucifera oil, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, hydrolyzed elastin, polysorbate 20, ascorbic acid, panthenol, tocopheryl acetate, biotin, niacinamide, benzyl alcohol, citronellol, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, linalool.

The combing test was carried out by an automated device in which a strand of the curl is attached, and a comb is passed through the curl. The equipment measured the friction of the comb with wet hair containing the applied hair cosmetic composition.

The results can be seen in Figure 2, wherein the lower the friction on the curl (smaller the bar), the better the result of the product.

The results of the curl score definition after the application of the compositions of the present invention were significantly superior in both weight ratios of tartaric acid (TA) with gluconamide (GL) (3:1 and 2:1 ) when compared to the benchmark product. The results also showed a significant improvement of the compositions of the present invention in view of the tartaric acid alone, showing a better cosmeticity of the present compositions.

Test 3 - Combing Force

In order to evaluate whether other organic acids would present similar results to tartaric acid, a combing force was assessed with Texture Analyzer test, wherein the test was also performed for lactic acid, glutaric acid and glycolic acid in combination with gluconamide.

For this purpose, an in vitro test was conducted to compare a placebo (formula without active ingredient, i.e., no organic acid and no gluconamide), an organic acid alone and the combination of an organic acid with gluconamide at different concentrations. Figure 3 shows that gluconamide helps improving the cosmeticity when combined with other organic acids. As it can be seen, the better results were for 3% glutaric acid with 1 % gluconamide and 1% glutaric acid with 3% gluconamide. Moreover, all other organic acids showed good results of cosmeticity in relation to an organic acid alone (without gluconamide).

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS

1 . Hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one organic acid;

(b) at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group;

(c) at least one amino acid;

(d) at least one fatty compound selected from natural oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof;

(e) at least one gluconamide;and

(f) water.

2. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one organic acid is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of the at least one organic acid ranges from 0.001 % to 7.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group is selected from polyols, C2 to Ce monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition, according to claim 4, wherein the polyol is selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of the at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group ranges from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine, glycine and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of the at least one amino acid ranges from 0.1 % to 7.0 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 6.0 % by weight, more preferably from 0.1 % to 5.0 % by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 % to 3.0 % weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the vegetal resin is Copaiba Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) resin (oil resin or resin form) and the at least one natural oil is coconut oil.

10. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of the at least one vegetal resin ranges from 0.1 % to 7.0 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5 % by weight, preferably from 0.15 % to 4.0 % by weight, preferably from 0.17 % to 4.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition, according to claim 9, wherein the amount of the at least one natural oil ranges from 0.1 % to 7.0 % by weight, preferably from 1 % to 6.0 % by weight, preferably from 2 % to 5.0 % by weight, preferably from 3 % to 4.8 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one gluconamide contains or not at least one salt thereof.

13. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of at least one gluconamide ranges from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.3 to 5%, more preferably from 0.4 to 2%, based on the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, vitamins, vegetal extracts, pH-adjusters, organic solvents, surfactants, silicones, and mixtures thereof.

15. Hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) from 0.001 % to 7.0 % by weight of at least one organic acid selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and a mixture thereof;

(b) from 0.1 % to 20.0 % by weight of least one hydroxyl-group selected from polyols, C2 to Ce monoalcohols, and a mixture thereof;

(c) from 0.1 % to 7.0 % by weight of arginine;

(d) from 0.1 % to 15.0 % by weight of at least one vegetal resin or natural oil;

(e) from 0.1 to 10%, by weight of a mixture of hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate;

(f) from 30% to 99% by weight of water; and

(g) optionally, from 0.1 % to 7.0 % by weight of at least one natural oil, based on the total weight of the composition.

16. Method for providing long lasting improved curls definition to the hair or for treating curly hair, wherein the method comprises contacting the hair with the hair cosmetic composition, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15.

17. Use of the cosmetic composition, as defined in claim 1 , for the manufacture of a hair cosmetic product for improving curls definition or for treating curly hair.

18. Use of a cosmetic composition, as defined in claim 1 , wherein the hair product is a leave-in product, a shampoo, or a cream.