WO2024243652A1 - Rinse-off hair cosmetic composition, method to treat the hair, method for delivering lasting definition for curly hair and use of a composition - Google Patents
Rinse-off hair cosmetic composition, method to treat the hair, method for delivering lasting definition for curly hair and use of a composition Download PDFInfo
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- WO2024243652A1 WO2024243652A1 PCT/BR2023/050173 BR2023050173W WO2024243652A1 WO 2024243652 A1 WO2024243652 A1 WO 2024243652A1 BR 2023050173 W BR2023050173 W BR 2023050173W WO 2024243652 A1 WO2024243652 A1 WO 2024243652A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
Definitions
- the present invention is directed to rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions comprising (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water.
- the invention is also related to a method of treating hair, particularly curly hair, a method for delivering lasting definition for curly hair, and the use of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition.
- curly hair tends to become frizzy and significantly expand in volume when exposed to high humidity conditions, chemical treatments, among others. Additionally, the shape and definition of the curls are lost after sleeping.
- curly hair products that define the curls in a lasting way since the standard curly hair routine includes the use of several cosmetic products through the entire length of the hair and must be reset every two days, once the curls tend to lose definition and fresh-looking aspect after such period - it is a very time-consuming routine that involves the consumers restarting all the steps in about every two days, including washing the hair and applying different cosmetic products.
- a hair cosmetic product for curly hair that not only helps defining the curls, but also provide long lasting cosmetic benefits to the consumer’s hair such as resistance to frizz, that leave the hair shiny and that is easy to apply.
- the inventors of the present invention surprisingly and unexpectedly achieved hair cosmetic compositions, particularly designed for curly hair, comprising (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water, that are able to penetrate the hair fiber without building-up on the fiber’s surface (creating new bounds that makes hair resist for longer), while also providing curl definition with lasting and also provides cosmetic benefits such shine, gliding touch, spreadability.
- the present invention is directed to rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions comprising (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water.
- the invention is also related to a method of treating hair, particularly curly hair, and a method for delivering lasting definition to curly hair.
- Figure 1A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 1 wherein inventive Ex. A, and inventive Ex. C were compared with Ex. 1 , regarding curls definition.
- Figure 1 B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 1 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. C were compared with Ex. 1 , regarding hair frizz and volume control.
- Figure 2A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 2 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. D were compared with Ex. 2, regarding curls definition.
- Figure 2B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 2 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. D were compared with Ex. 2, regarding hair frizz and volume control.
- Figure 3A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 3 wherein inventive Ex. A, and inventive Ex. E were compared with Ex. 3, regarding curls definition.
- Figure 3B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 3 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. E were compared with Ex. 3 regarding hair frizz and volume control.
- Figure 4A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 4 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. F were compared with Ex. 4, regarding curls definition.
- Figure 4B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 4 wherein inventive Ex. A, and inventive Ex. F were compared with Ex. 4, regarding hair frizz and volume control..
- Figure 5A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 5 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. G were compared with Ex. 5, regarding curls definition.
- Figure 5B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 5 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. G were compared with Ex. 5, regarding hair frizz and volume control.
- Figure 6A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 6 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. H were compared with Ex. 6, regarding curls definition.
- Figure 6B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 6 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. H were compared with Ex. 6, regarding hair frizz and volume control.
- Figure 7A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 7 wherein inventive Ex. B and inventive Ex. I were compared with Ex. 7, regarding curls definition.
- Figure 7B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 7 wherein inventive Ex. B and inventive Ex. I were compared with Ex. 7, regarding hair frizz and volume control.
- the present invention is directed to a rinse-off hair cosmetic composition, mainly for curly hair, comprising:
- At least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof;
- the at least one organic acid is selected from short chain organic acids, preferably a-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids, and a mixture thereof.
- the at least one organic acid of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one organic acid is tartaric acid. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic acid is lactic acid.
- the at least one organic acid includes tartaric acid and a second organic acid selected from lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and citric acid.
- the at least one organic acid includes tartaric acid and lactic acid.
- the amount of the at least one organic acid ranges from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, 0.5% to about 8.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 1 .0% to about 4.0%, and most preferably from about 1 .0% to about 3.0%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group.
- a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group acts as a penetrating agent, that is, being capable of forming the dipoledipole interaction with the keratin fibers, such as hair, and binding to polar sites on the surface of said keratin fiber and decrease the shielding, thus promoting penetration of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition into the keratin fibers.
- the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from polyols, C2 to Ce monoalcohols, and a mixture thereof.
- the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from polyols.
- the polyol is a glycol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.
- the polyol comprises propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
- the polyol is glycerin.
- the polyol comprises propylene glycol and glycerin.
- the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from C2 to Ce monoalcohols.
- the C2 to Ce monoalcohols include ethanol and/or propanol and/or isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) and/or butanol and/or hexanol.
- the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of polyols and C2 to Ce monoalcohols.
- the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol and ethanol.
- the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse- off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol and isopropyl alcohol.
- the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol, isopropyl alcohol, and ethanol. In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol, isopropyl alcohol, ethanol, and glycerin. In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol, ethanol, and glycerin.
- the amount of the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group ranges from about 0.1 % to about 20.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 15.0% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 10.0% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 7.0% by weight, or from about 1 .0% to about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine and glycine.
- the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine.
- the at least one amino acid is selected from glycine.
- the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine and glycine.
- the amount of the at least one amino acid ranges from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 6.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5.0% weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- Other suitable ranges are from about 0.5% to about 3.0% by weight, or from about 0.7% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof is selected from Copaiba officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) resin (oil resin or resin form).
- the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof is selected from coconut oil, Soja Soybean oil (soybean oil) and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one fatty compound includes coconut oil.
- the at least one fatty compound includes Soja Soybean oil.
- the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes Copaiba Resin, Candeia resin, and white breu resin.
- the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof is copaiba resin.
- the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes copaiba resin and coconut oil, and Soja Soybean oil.
- the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes copaiba resin and coconut oil. In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes Candelilla wax.
- the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes Carnauba wax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof.
- the amount of the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof ranges from about 0.1 % to about 15.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 14.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.15% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.17% to about 4.0% by weight, or such as at about 0.1 %, about 0.17%, about 0.2%, about 0.3%, about 0.36%, about 0.4%, about 0.5% to about 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof includes at least one cationic surfactant.
- the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary ammonium salts such as cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and from cationizable surfactants, for example, amido amine compounds such as oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearam idopropyl dimethylam ine,
- the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof includes at least one cationic surfactant selected from behetrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof includes at least one cationic surfactant selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof includes at least one nonionic surfactant.
- the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from fatty alcohols.
- the fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
- the fatty alcohols include cetearyl alcohol.
- the fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol.
- the fatty alcohols include stearyl alcohol.
- the fatty alcohols include cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
- the fatty alcohols include an alkoxylated alcohol.
- the fatty alcohols include an alkoxylated alcohol selected from steareth-20, Laureth-12, ceteareth-20, deceth-10, trideceth-6, and mixtures thereof.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant selected from propylene glycol (and) peg-55 propylene glycol oleate, decyl glucoside, cocam ide mea, Peg-150 distearate, Ppg-5-ceteth-20, and mixtures thereof.
- nonionic surfactant selected from propylene glycol (and) peg-55 propylene glycol oleate, decyl glucoside, cocam ide mea, Peg-150 distearate, Ppg-5-ceteth-20, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one surfactant includes at least one cationic surfactant selected from behetrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and at least one nonionic surfactant selected from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
- at least one cationic surfactant selected from behetrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof
- nonionic surfactant selected from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
- the amount of the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof ranges from about 0.05% to about 15.0% by weight, preferably from about 1.0% to about 14.0% by weight, preferably from about 1 .5% to about 12.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1 % to about 12% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 11.0%, from about 3.0% to about 10.0% by weight, including all ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition.
- each surfactant may be present in an amount such as about 0.05%, about 0.5%, about 1.0%, about 1.5%, about 1.8%, about 2.4%, about 3.0%, about 3.5%, about 4.0%, about 5.0%, about 5.5%, about 6.0%, about 6.5%, about 7.0, about 7.5%, about 8.0%, about 8.5%, about 9.0%, about 9.5%, about 10. 0%, about 10.5%, about 11.0%, about 11.5%, about 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one surfactant is at least one cationic surfactant ranging from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, such as from about 1 .0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 1 .4% to about 9.0% by weight, from about 1 .4% to about 8.0% by weight, from about 1 .4% to about 6.0% by weight, from about 2.0 to about 6.0% by weight, from about 2.4 to about 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one surfactant is at least one nonionic surfactant selected from at least one fatty alcohol ranging from about 0.1 to about 12.0% by weight, such as from about 3.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 4.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one surfactant is at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from at least one of coco-betaine, cocam idopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof, ranging from about 0.1 to about 12.0% by weight, such as from about 3.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 4.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one ester, which may be selected from isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl esters, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one ester ranges from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, such as from about 1 .0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant, which may be selected from, but not limited to, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, such as from about 1.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
- the rinse-off composition of the invention comprises one or more pigments.
- the pigment includes violet pigment.
- the pigment of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from about 0.1 to about 1 .0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the pigment of the rinse- off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from about 0.1 % to 0.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
- the rinse-off composition of the invention is used as a shampoo.
- the rinse-off composition of the invention is in the form of a shampoo.
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition can be, but not exclusive, free of or substantially free of silicon.
- the pH of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is from about 4 to about 7.
- a rinse-off hair cosmetic composition such as a shampoo
- the time of penetration is smaller than when used as leave on.
- inventors of the present invention achieved a composition with superior definition and frizz control compared with the standards shampoo in the market.
- the inventors discovered that surprisingly the technology of the present invention has superior performance in definition, lasting definition, volume, and frizz control when applied as a shampoo.
- the present invention is directed to a method for treating hair, and to a method to deliver lasting definition to curly hair, particularly curly hair, comprising the steps of (1 ) contacting the hair with the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the invention and (2) rinsing the hair cosmetic composition off the hair.
- the composition of the invention is used as a rinse-off product to deliver long lasting definition of curls without build up and frizz, that improve curl regularity, discipline, volume control, individualization of the curls, and, among other attributes.
- the present invention is directed to a method for treating hair, particularly curly hair, comprising the step of (1 ) contacting the hair with the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the invention and the step of (2) rising-off the composition from the hair.
- the present invention also relates to a method for delivering lasting definition to curly hair, comprising contacting the hair with the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the invention.
- the present invention also relates to a use of a composition for the manufacture of a rinse-off hair care product for providing improved curls definition.
- the composition of the invention is used as a rinse-off product to deliver long lasting definition of curls without build up and frizz, that improve curl regularity, discipline, volume control, individualization of the curls, among other attributes.
- the at least one organic acid of the compositions can be selected from alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, and a mixture thereof.
- alpha-hydroxy acid is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha-position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).
- a “beta-hydroxy acid” is closely related to an alpha-hydroxy acid except the carboxylic and hydroxyl functional groups are separated by two carbon atoms.
- a hydroxy acid can be present in the final composition in the form of the free acid and/or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali metal, in particular), especially according to the final pH imposed on the composition.
- the alpha hydroxy acid present in the composition includes, but is not limited to, one or more of tartaric acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2- hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2- hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2- hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, their salts and their
- the composition includes alpha hydroxy acids comprising tartaric acid and lactic acid.
- the more than one alpha hydroxy acids may be present in the same or in different amounts.
- the beta hydroxy acid when present in the composition according to the disclosure, includes, but is not limited to, one or more of salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract), beta hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, and trethocanic acid.
- salicylic acid and derivatives thereof including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract
- beta hydroxybutanoic acid beta hydroxybutanoic acid
- tropic acid trethocanic acid
- the composition includes tartaric acid.
- the composition includes tartaric acid and lactic acid.
- the non-aqueous solvent of the present invention comprises at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group.
- Said compound with at least one hydroxyl-group can be selected from polyols, and/or C2 to Ce monoalcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.
- alkanediols such as glycerin, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4- pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1 ,2- pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, isopropanol, and a mixture thereof.
- alkanediols polyhydric alcohols
- alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as
- the compound with at least one hydroxyl-group may be selected from the group consisting of one or more glycols, C1-4 alcohols, glycerin, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the compound with at least one hydroxyl-group is selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, isopropyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof. Polyhydric alcohols are useful.
- polyhydric alcohols examples include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1 ,6-hexanediol, 2- methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof.
- Polyol compounds may also be used.
- Non-limiting examples include the aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1 ,2-butanediol, 2 ,2-diethy 1-1 ,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4- pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1 ,2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1 ,3- hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.
- compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid.
- amino acid includes amino acids such as proteinogenic amino acids, amino sulfonic acids, and salts thereof.
- Amino acids are simple organic compounds containing both a carboxylic acid group ( — COOH) and an amino group ( — NH2).
- Amino sulfonic acids are simple organic compounds containing both a sulfonic acid group ( — SO2OH) and an amino group ( — NH2). Accordingly, the amino acids useful according to the disclosure may, in certain embodiments, be selected from compounds of Formula (I) and Formula (II):
- - R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O _ and M + , and S(O)2-O _ and M + , with M + representing a cationic counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, and
- - n is 0 or 1 .
- amino acids may be in their non-ionized form (I) and (II) or in their ionized or betaine form (I’) and (II’): wherein R and n are as defined above.
- the one or more amino acids may also be in their conjugate base form (lb) and (lib): wherein R and n are as defined above.
- Well-known amino acids include the twenty amino acids that form the proteins of living organisms (standard proteinogenic amino acids): alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.
- standard proteinogenic amino acids alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.
- the amino acids of the instant disclosure are not limited to the standard proteinogenic amino acids.
- Non-limiting examples of amino sulfonic acids include aminomethane sulfonic acid, 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.
- charged amino acids may be used.
- charged amino acids include arginine, lysine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid.
- polar amino acids are useful.
- Non-limiting examples of polar amino acids include glutamine, asparagine, histidine, serine, threonine, tyrosine, cysteine, methionine, and tryptophan.
- hydrophobic amino acids may be employed.
- hydrophobic amino acids include alanine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, valine, proline, and glycine.
- the at least one fatty compound of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may be selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof.
- the fatty compound of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof comprises at least one vegetal oil.
- the at least one vegetal oil is selected from coconut oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, avocado oil, soybean oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, castor oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, clary sage, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander, costmary oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, dill oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, grapeseed oil, henna oil, horseradish oil, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass, mar
- the suitable vegetal oils for use in the hair care compositions of the present invention are selected from coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, com oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, wheatgerm oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, hazel nut oil, Brazilian nut oil, colza oil, cade oil, peach kernel oil, jojoba oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, and mixtures thereof.
- the vegetal oil can improve the penetration effect.
- the vegetal oil of the present invention is coconut oil, that is mainly composed by Lauric acid, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Caprylic Acid, Capric Acid.
- Other oils with the same composition could apply on the invention, such as Babassu oil.
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one vegetal oil selected from, argan oil, soybean oil and mixtures thereof.
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise a mixture of vegetal oils and vegetal resins, such as coconut oil and Copaiba officinalis (Balsam Copaiba resin) (copaiba resin or copaiba oil resin).
- the fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one vegetal resin.
- the vegetal resin of the present invention is Copaifera officinalis (BALSAM COPAIBA) RESIN (INCI name) which can be in the form of a Copaiba oil resin or Copaiba resin.
- Copaifera officinalis (BALSAM COPAIBA) RESIN is commercially available under the tradename of RAIN FOREST RF3310 (also known by the chemical name of Copaiba Oleoresin) or under the tradename of RAIN FOREST 03370 (also known by the chemical name of Copaiba resin), both from the supplier Clariant.
- the fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof comprises a vegetal wax.
- the vegetal wax may be selected from Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof.
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention comprise water.
- the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from linage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le- Saunier, water from EauxBonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene.
- Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise water in an amount ranging from about 30.0% to about 99.0% by weight, preferably from about 65.0% to about 95.0% by weight, and most preferably from about 70.0% to about 92.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one ester.
- the at least one ester may be selected from, but not limited to, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl esters, and mixtures thereof.
- the amount of the at least one ester ranges from about 0.5% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 1 .5% to about 5.0% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, from about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 5.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 3.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 8.5% by weight, including all ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the hair composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from perfume/fragrance, preservative agents (such as, but not limited to, phenoxyethanol), vitamins, vegetal extracts, pH-adj usters, pearlizing agents, silicones (such as, but not limited to, polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof)), pigments (
- the additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1 % to about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- the term “about” in relation to a declared numerical value modifies the value of the declared amount by a variation of ⁇ 20% of said declared numerical value.
- the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- rinse-off composition refers to a composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of the composition onto the hair, and before drying and/or styling said hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the hair during the rinsing and/or washing.
- treat refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of hair.
- treat also refers to contacting hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.
- ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
- a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
- All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
- compositions may include less than about 2 wt.%, less than about 1 wt.%, less than about 0.5 wt.%, less than about 0.1 wt.%, less than 0.01 wt.%, or none of the specified material.
- Cosmetically acceptable means that the item in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
- a “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
- hair cosmetic composition can also be a hair styling or a hair shaping or a hair care or a hair treatment composition.
- cationic surfactant means a surfactant that is positively charged. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functions that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure.
- a combination thereof (or a mixture thereof) may be used following a list of elements as shown in the following example where letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a combination thereof”.
- the term, “a combination thereof” does not require that the combination include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a combination of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a combination of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
- the salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.
- Some of the compounds discussed throughout the disclosure may be in the form of a salt in the composition or added to the composition in the form of a salt (and dissociate in the composition).
- all compounds and amounts of compounds relate to both the salt form of the compound and to the disassociated form of the compound.
- a salt thereof is not specifically or expressly stated with respect to ingredients that can form salts or are available as salts, it is understood that the salt form of the compound is included.
- compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.
- Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two components that overlap), an overlapping component or ingredient does not represent more than one component.
- the rinse-off hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention can be manufactured from conventional cosmetic processes.
- An illustrative process comprises the following steps:
- Step (2) adding the at least one amino acid, mixing the ingredients until complete solubilization;
- Step (3) adding the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof and the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof;
- Step (4) heating the mixture until about 60 °C to about 75°C for about
- Step (5) adding the remaining water into the mixture and cooling down.
- Step (6) adding additional ingredients (if present) cooling down until about 25 °C, adjusting the pH (if necessary) with a pH adjuster.
- An example of a suitable rinse-off hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
- At least one organic acid selected from a-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids, and a mixture thereof, particularly the at least one organic acid is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof;
- AHAs a-hydroxy acids
- beta hydroxy acids beta hydroxy acids
- a mixture thereof particularly the at least one organic acid is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof;
- a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group selected from is selected from polyols, particularly the polyol is a glycol selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof;
- (d) from 0.1 % to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty compound includes:
- vegetal resins selected from Copaiba officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) resin (oil resin or resin form), Candeia resin, white breu resin, and mixtures thereof; and/or
- vegetal oils selected from coconut oil, Soja Soybean oil (soybean oil) and mixtures thereof; and/or
- vegetal waxes selected from Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof;
- the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
- a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof;
- the technology of the present invention delivers definition with lasting without frizz, since its actives penetrate inside hair, so creating new bounds that makes the hair resist the daily stress for longer.
- inventors achieved definition and frizz control superior as standard shampoos in the market. Since the actives can rapidly penetrate inside the hair.
- the performance on those attributes is improved in volume and frizz control due to the higher deposition of actives in hair surface, while the core ingredients of the technology penetrate.
- the conditions of the present test are as follows: all formulas in this invention were applied as shampoo with rinse; the definition measurement was done by imaging data. Highest the value, better the result; the volume and frizz control measurement data were generated by trained panel.
- the score goes from 1 to 4 in 0.5 in 0.5, where 4 is the highest score (best value); in the Definition measurement, the data presents the subtitles: o T24 means the data was taken after 24 hours of the application; o TAT means the data was taken in the same swatch as T24, but after touching to break the rigid effect; o TAP means that the swatch of TAT is combined, and measurement is taken.
- Test 1 In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo with silicone with pearlizinq agent
- inventive Ex. A as a rinse off product presents improved results, in addition to its actives themselves, since formulation of inventive Ex. A shows a superiority tendency when used as a rinse-off product used as a shampoo.
- Test 2 In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo with silicone without pearlizinq agent
- T24 immediate definition
- TEP lasting definition
- Test 3 In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo without silicone with pearlizinq agent
- inventive formula Ex. A achieved the best volume and frizz control results compared with Ex. 3 and Ex. E.
- inventive Ex. A as a rinse off product presents improved results, in addition to its actives themselves, since formulation of inventive Ex. A shows a superiority tendency when used as a rinse-off product used as a shampoo.
- Test 4 In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo without silicone without pearlizinq agent
- inventive formula Ex. A achieved the best definition results compared with Ex. 4 and Ex. F in terms of immediate curls definition (T24) and lasting definition (TAT and TAP) as well.
- inventive Ex. A as a rinse off product presents improved results, in addition to its actives themselves, since formulation of inventive Ex. A shows a superiority tendency when used as a rinse-off product used as a shampoo.
- Test 5 In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo sulfate free with silicone Inventive formula of Ex. A achieved the best definition results compared with Ex. 5 and Ex. G in terms of immediate curls definition (T24) and lasting definition (TAT).
- inventive formula Ex. A achieved the best definition results compared with Ex. 5 and Ex. G in terms of volume and frizz control as well.
- Test 6 In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo sulfate free without silicone
- Test 7 In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo with pigment
- inventive formula of Ex. B had the best curl definition results on T24, TAT and TAP.
- inventive formula of Ex. B had superiority in volume control compared to shampoo composition without the technology’s active ingredients, such as Ex. 7. However, when adding key ingredients of inventive formula of Ex. B to the shampoo composition of Ex. I, improvement in both volume and frizz control are achieved.
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Abstract
The present invention is directed to rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions comprising (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water. The invention is also related to a method of treating hair, particularly curly hair, a method for delivering lasting definition to curly hair, and the use of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition.
Description
RINSE-OFF HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION, METHOD TO TREAT THE HAIR, METHOD FOR DELIVERING LASTING DEFINITION FOR CURLY HAIR AND USE OF A COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions comprising (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water. The invention is also related to a method of treating hair, particularly curly hair, a method for delivering lasting definition for curly hair, and the use of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
People have been using several cosmetic and personal care compositions to enhance the look and feel of keratin fibers, such as the hair.
Particularly regarding curly hair, consumers are always dealing with problems related to the definition of the curls such as frizz, volume, and shape. Curly hair tends to become frizzy and significantly expand in volume when exposed to high humidity conditions, chemical treatments, among others. Additionally, the shape and definition of the curls are lost after sleeping.
Many attempts to developed products to discipline, define and control the hair, in particular curly hair, enhancing/maintaining curl definition, curl retention, and curl regularity, without leaving the hair feeling and/or looking unnatural and stiff were made, but such products resulted in additional problems or maintenance difficulty.
In this sense, there is a need in the market for curly hair products that define the curls in a lasting way since the standard curly hair routine includes the use of several cosmetic products through the entire length of the hair and must be reset every two days, once the curls tend to lose definition and fresh-looking aspect after such period - it is a very time-consuming routine that involves the consumers restarting all the steps in about every two days, including washing the hair and applying different cosmetic products.
Therefore, it is desirable to have a hair cosmetic product for curly hair that not only helps defining the curls, but also provide long lasting cosmetic benefits to
the consumer’s hair such as resistance to frizz, that leave the hair shiny and that is easy to apply.
The inventors of the present invention surprisingly and unexpectedly achieved hair cosmetic compositions, particularly designed for curly hair, comprising (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water, that are able to penetrate the hair fiber without building-up on the fiber’s surface (creating new bounds that makes hair resist for longer), while also providing curl definition with lasting and also provides cosmetic benefits such shine, gliding touch, spreadability.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions comprising (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water. The invention is also related to a method of treating hair, particularly curly hair, and a method for delivering lasting definition to curly hair.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
Figure 1A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 1 wherein inventive Ex. A, and inventive Ex. C were compared with Ex. 1 , regarding curls definition.
Figure 1 B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 1 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. C were compared with Ex. 1 , regarding hair frizz and volume control.
Figure 2A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 2 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. D were compared with Ex. 2, regarding curls definition.
Figure 2B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 2 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. D were compared with Ex. 2, regarding hair frizz and volume control.
Figure 3A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 3 wherein inventive Ex. A, and inventive Ex. E were compared with Ex. 3, regarding curls definition.
Figure 3B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 3 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. E were compared with Ex. 3 regarding hair frizz and volume control.
Figure 4A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 4 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. F were compared with Ex. 4, regarding curls definition.
Figure 4B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 4 wherein inventive Ex. A, and inventive Ex. F were compared with Ex. 4, regarding hair frizz and volume control..
Figure 5A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 5 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. G were compared with Ex. 5, regarding curls definition.
Figure 5B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 5 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. G were compared with Ex. 5, regarding hair frizz and volume control.
Figure 6A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 6 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. H were compared with Ex. 6, regarding curls definition.
Figure 6B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 6 wherein inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. H were compared with Ex. 6, regarding hair frizz and volume control.
Figure 7A relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 7 wherein inventive Ex. B and inventive Ex. I were compared with Ex. 7, regarding curls definition.
Figure 7B relates to the results of comparative in vitro Test 7 wherein inventive Ex. B and inventive Ex. I were compared with Ex. 7, regarding hair frizz and volume control.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a rinse-off hair cosmetic composition, mainly for curly hair, comprising:
(a) at least one organic acid;
(b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group;
(c) at least one amino acid;
(d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof;
(e) at least one ester;
(f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and
(g) water.
In an embodiment, the at least one organic acid is selected from short chain organic acids, preferably a-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids, and a mixture thereof. In an embodiment, the at least one organic acid of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic acid is tartaric acid. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic acid is lactic acid.
In an embodiment, the at least one organic acid includes tartaric acid and a second organic acid selected from lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and citric acid.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic acid includes tartaric acid and lactic acid.
The amount of the at least one organic acid ranges from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, 0.5% to about 8.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 1 .0% to about 4.0%, and most preferably from about 1 .0% to about 3.0%, based on the total weight of the composition.
The rinse-off hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group. Without being limited to any one theory, it is believed that the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group acts as a penetrating agent, that is, being capable of forming the dipoledipole interaction with the keratin fibers, such as hair, and binding to polar sites on the surface of said keratin fiber and decrease the shielding, thus promoting penetration of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition into the keratin fibers.
In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition
of the present invention is selected from polyols, C2 to Ce monoalcohols, and a mixture thereof.
In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from polyols. In an embodiment, the polyol is a glycol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the polyol comprises propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. In an embodiment, the polyol is glycerin. In an embodiment, the polyol comprises propylene glycol and glycerin.
In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from C2 to Ce monoalcohols. In an embodiment, the C2 to Ce monoalcohols include ethanol and/or propanol and/or isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) and/or butanol and/or hexanol.
In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of polyols and C2 to Ce monoalcohols. In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol and ethanol. In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse- off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol and isopropyl alcohol. In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol, isopropyl alcohol, and ethanol. In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol, isopropyl alcohol, ethanol, and glycerin. In an embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol, ethanol, and glycerin.
The amount of the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group ranges from about 0.1 % to about 20.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 15.0% by weight, or from about 0.5%
to about 10.0% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 7.0% by weight, or from about 1 .0% to about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
According to the present invention, the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine and glycine.
In an embodiment, the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine.
In an embodiment, the at least one amino acid is selected from glycine.
In an embodiment, the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine and glycine.
The amount of the at least one amino acid ranges from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 6.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5.0% weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Other suitable ranges are from about 0.5% to about 3.0% by weight, or from about 0.7% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof is selected from Copaiba officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) resin (oil resin or resin form).
In a further embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof is selected from coconut oil, Soja Soybean oil (soybean oil) and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound includes coconut oil.
In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound includes Soja Soybean oil.
In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes Copaiba Resin, Candeia resin, and white breu resin.
In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof is copaiba resin.
In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes copaiba resin and coconut oil, and Soja Soybean oil.
In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes copaiba resin and coconut oil.
In an embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes Candelilla wax.
In another embodiment, the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof includes Carnauba wax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof ranges from about 0.1 % to about 15.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 14.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.15% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.17% to about 4.0% by weight, or such as at about 0.1 %, about 0.17%, about 0.2%, about 0.3%, about 0.36%, about 0.4%, about 0.5% to about 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof includes at least one cationic surfactant. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary ammonium salts such as cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and from cationizable surfactants, for example, amido amine compounds such as oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearam idopropyl dimethylam ine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenam idoethyldiethyl-am ine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauram idopropyl dimethylamine, myristam idopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palm itam idopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof includes at least one cationic surfactant selected from behetrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof includes at least one cationic surfactant selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof includes at least one nonionic surfactant. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from fatty alcohols.
In an embodiment, the fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the fatty alcohols include cetearyl alcohol.
In an embodiment, the fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol.
In an embodiment, the fatty alcohols include stearyl alcohol.
In an embodiment, the fatty alcohols include cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
In an embodiment, the fatty alcohols include an alkoxylated alcohol.
In an embodiment, the fatty alcohols include an alkoxylated alcohol selected from steareth-20, Laureth-12, ceteareth-20, deceth-10, trideceth-6, and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant selected from propylene glycol (and) peg-55 propylene glycol oleate, decyl glucoside, cocam ide mea, Peg-150 distearate, Ppg-5-ceteth-20, and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the at least one surfactant includes at least one cationic surfactant selected from behetrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and at least one nonionic surfactant selected from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof ranges from about 0.05% to about 15.0% by weight, preferably from about 1.0% to about 14.0% by weight, preferably from about 1 .5% to about 12.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1 % to about 12% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 11.0%, from about 3.0% to about
10.0% by weight, including all ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition.
Individually, each surfactant may be present in an amount such as about 0.05%, about 0.5%, about 1.0%, about 1.5%, about 1.8%, about 2.4%, about 3.0%, about 3.5%, about 4.0%, about 5.0%, about 5.5%, about 6.0%, about 6.5%, about 7.0, about 7.5%, about 8.0%, about 8.5%, about 9.0%, about 9.5%, about 10. 0%, about 10.5%, about 11.0%, about 11.5%, about 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one surfactant is at least one cationic surfactant ranging from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, such as from about 1 .0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 1 .4% to about 9.0% by weight, from about 1 .4% to about 8.0% by weight, from about 1 .4% to about 6.0% by weight, from about 2.0 to about 6.0% by weight, from about 2.4 to about 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one surfactant is at least one nonionic surfactant selected from at least one fatty alcohol ranging from about 0.1 to about 12.0% by weight, such as from about 3.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 4.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one surfactant is at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from at least one of coco-betaine, cocam idopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof, ranging from about 0.1 to about 12.0% by weight, such as from about 3.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 4.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one ester, which may be selected from isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl esters, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one ester ranges from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, such as from about 1 .0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant, which may be selected from, but
not limited to, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, such as from about 1.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, the rinse-off composition of the invention comprises one or more pigments. In a preferred embodiment, the pigment includes violet pigment.
In an embodiment, the pigment of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from about 0.1 to about 1 .0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the pigment of the rinse- off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from about 0.1 % to 0.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, the rinse-off composition of the invention is used as a shampoo.
In an embodiment, the rinse-off composition of the invention is in the form of a shampoo.
In a further preferred embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition can be, but not exclusive, free of or substantially free of silicon.
The pH of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is from about 4 to about 7.
When used as a rinse-off hair cosmetic composition, such as a shampoo, the time of penetration is smaller than when used as leave on. Thus, inventors of the present invention achieved a composition with superior definition and frizz control compared with the standards shampoo in the market.
The inventors discovered that surprisingly the technology of the present invention has superior performance in definition, lasting definition, volume, and frizz control when applied as a shampoo.
Moreover, the present invention is directed to a method for treating hair, and to a method to deliver lasting definition to curly hair, particularly curly hair, comprising the steps of (1 ) contacting the hair with the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the invention and (2) rinsing the hair cosmetic composition off the hair.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is used as a rinse-off product to deliver long lasting definition of curls without build up and frizz, that
improve curl regularity, discipline, volume control, individualization of the curls, and, among other attributes.
Moreover, the present invention is directed to a method for treating hair, particularly curly hair, comprising the step of (1 ) contacting the hair with the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the invention and the step of (2) rising-off the composition from the hair.
Additionally, the present invention also relates to a method for delivering lasting definition to curly hair, comprising contacting the hair with the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the invention.
The present invention also relates to a use of a composition for the manufacture of a rinse-off hair care product for providing improved curls definition.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is used as a rinse-off product to deliver long lasting definition of curls without build up and frizz, that improve curl regularity, discipline, volume control, individualization of the curls, among other attributes.
ORGANIC ACID
The at least one organic acid of the compositions can be selected from alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, and a mixture thereof.
The term "alpha-hydroxy acid" is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha-position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group). A “beta-hydroxy acid” is closely related to an alpha-hydroxy acid except the carboxylic and hydroxyl functional groups are separated by two carbon atoms. A hydroxy acid can be present in the final composition in the form of the free acid and/or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali metal, in particular), especially according to the final pH imposed on the composition.
The alpha hydroxy acid present in the composition, according to the disclosure, includes, but is not limited to, one or more of tartaric acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2- hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2- hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2- hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid,
2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, their salts and their mixtures. It is also possible to use mixtures of these various acids.
In some embodiments, the composition includes alpha hydroxy acids comprising tartaric acid and lactic acid. When combined, the more than one alpha hydroxy acids may be present in the same or in different amounts.
The beta hydroxy acid, when present in the composition according to the disclosure, includes, but is not limited to, one or more of salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract), beta hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, and trethocanic acid.
In some embodiments, the composition includes tartaric acid.
In some embodiments, the composition includes tartaric acid and lactic acid.
COMPOUND WITH AT LEAST ONE HYDROXYL-GROUP
The non-aqueous solvent of the present invention comprises at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group.
Said compound with at least one hydroxyl-group can be selected from polyols, and/or C2 to Ce monoalcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.
Further non-limiting examples include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4- pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1 ,2- pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, isopropanol, and a mixture thereof.
In some cases, the compound with at least one hydroxyl-group may be selected from the group consisting of one or more glycols, C1-4 alcohols, glycerin, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the compound with at least one hydroxyl-group is selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, isopropyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1 ,6-hexanediol, 2- methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof.
Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include the aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1 ,2-butanediol, 2 ,2-diethy 1-1 ,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4- pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1 ,2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1 ,3- hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.
AMINO ACID
The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. As used herein, the term “amino acid” includes amino acids such as proteinogenic amino acids, amino sulfonic acids, and salts thereof.
Amino acids are simple organic compounds containing both a carboxylic acid group ( — COOH) and an amino group ( — NH2). Amino sulfonic acids are simple organic compounds containing both a sulfonic acid group ( — SO2OH) and an amino group ( — NH2). Accordingly, the amino acids useful according to the disclosure may, in certain embodiments, be selected from compounds of Formula (I) and Formula (II):
(l) (ll) wherein:
- R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O_ and M+, and S(O)2-O_ and M+, with M+ representing a cationic counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, and
- n is 0 or 1 .
The amino acids may be in their non-ionized form (I) and (II) or in their ionized or betaine form (I’) and (II’):
wherein R and n are as defined above.
The one or more amino acids may also be in their conjugate base form (lb) and (lib):
wherein R and n are as defined above.
Well-known amino acids include the twenty amino acids that form the proteins of living organisms (standard proteinogenic amino acids): alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. The amino acids of the instant disclosure, however, are not limited to the standard proteinogenic amino acids.
Non-limiting examples of amino sulfonic acids include aminomethane sulfonic acid, 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenol
sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.
In some cases, charged amino acids may be used. Non-limiting examples of charged amino acids include arginine, lysine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid. In some cases, polar amino acids are useful. Non-limiting examples of polar amino acids include glutamine, asparagine, histidine, serine, threonine, tyrosine, cysteine, methionine, and tryptophan.
In some cases, hydrophobic amino acids may be employed. Non-limiting examples of hydrophobic amino acids include alanine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, valine, proline, and glycine.
FATTY COMPOUND
The at least one fatty compound of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may be selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof.
Vegetal Oil
In an embodiment, the fatty compound of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof comprises at least one vegetal oil.
In a non-limitative and preferred embodiment, the at least one vegetal oil is selected from coconut oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, avocado oil, soybean oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, castor oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, clary sage, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander, costmary oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, dill oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, grapeseed oil, henna oil, horseradish oil, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass, marjoram, melaleuca, lemon balm oil, mountain savory, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle, neem tree oil, neroli, nutmeg, orange oil, oregano oil, orris oil, palo santo, parsley oil, peppermint oil, pine oil, plum oil, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, spruce, star anise oil, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the suitable vegetal oils for use in the hair care compositions of the present invention are selected from coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, com oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower
oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, wheatgerm oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, hazel nut oil, Brazilian nut oil, colza oil, cade oil, peach kernel oil, jojoba oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, and mixtures thereof.
When present, the vegetal oil can improve the penetration effect.
In a preferred embodiment, the vegetal oil of the present invention is coconut oil, that is mainly composed by Lauric acid, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Caprylic Acid, Capric Acid. Other oils with the same composition could apply on the invention, such as Babassu oil.
In another preferred embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one vegetal oil selected from, argan oil, soybean oil and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise a mixture of vegetal oils and vegetal resins, such as coconut oil and Copaiba officinalis (Balsam Copaiba resin) (copaiba resin or copaiba oil resin).
Vegetal Resin
In an embodiment, the fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one vegetal resin.
Preferably, the vegetal resin of the present invention is Copaifera officinalis (BALSAM COPAIBA) RESIN (INCI name) which can be in the form of a Copaiba oil resin or Copaiba resin. Copaifera officinalis (BALSAM COPAIBA) RESIN is commercially available under the tradename of RAIN FOREST RF3310 (also known by the chemical name of Copaiba Oleoresin) or under the tradename of RAIN FOREST 03370 (also known by the chemical name of Copaiba resin), both from the supplier Clariant.
Vegetal Waxes
In an embodiment, the fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof comprises a vegetal wax.
When present, the vegetal wax may be selected from Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof.
WATER
The rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention comprise water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile
water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from linage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le- Saunier, water from EauxBonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene. Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.
The rinse-off hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise water in an amount ranging from about 30.0% to about 99.0% by weight, preferably from about 65.0% to about 95.0% by weight, and most preferably from about 70.0% to about 92.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.
ESTERS
In preferential embodiments, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one ester. The at least one ester may be selected from, but not limited to, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl esters, and mixtures thereof.
When present, the amount of the at least one ester ranges from about 0.5% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 1 .5% to about 5.0% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, from about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 5.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 3.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 8.5% by weight, including all ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition.
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the hair composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from perfume/fragrance, preservative agents (such as, but not limited to, phenoxyethanol), vitamins, vegetal extracts, pH-adj usters, pearlizing agents, silicones (such as, but not limited to, polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl
groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof)), pigments (such as, but not limited to, ext. violet), and mixtures thereof.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
The additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1 % to about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
TERMS
As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
As used herein, the term “about” in relation to a declared numerical value modifies the value of the declared amount by a variation of ± 20% of said declared numerical value.
As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
As used herein, "rinse-off composition” refers to a composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of the composition onto the hair, and before drying and/or styling said hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the hair during the rinsing and/or washing.
The term “treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of hair. The term “treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5,
2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
The term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. Nonetheless, the compositions may include less than about 2 wt.%, less than about 1 wt.%, less than about 0.5 wt.%, less than about 0.1 wt.%, less than 0.01 wt.%, or none of the specified material.
“Cosmetically acceptable” means that the item in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair. For example, a “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
The term “hair cosmetic composition” as used herein can also be a hair styling or a hair shaping or a hair care or a hair treatment composition.
The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is positively charged. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functions that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure.
Throughout the disclosure, the term “a combination thereof” (or a mixture thereof) may be used following a list of elements as shown in the following example where letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a combination thereof”. The term, “a combination thereof” does not require that the combination include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a combination of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a combination of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.
Some of the compounds discussed throughout the disclosure may be in the form of a salt in the composition or added to the composition in the form of a salt (and dissociate in the composition). Thus, all compounds and amounts of compounds relate to both the salt form of the compound and to the disassociated form of the
compound. In other words, even if the expression “a salt thereof” is not specifically or expressly stated with respect to ingredients that can form salts or are available as salts, it is understood that the salt form of the compound is included.
The expression "inclusive" for a range of concentrations means that the limits of the range are included in the defined interval.
The term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
All components and elements positively set forth in this disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.
Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two components that overlap), an overlapping component or ingredient does not represent more than one component.
PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A RINSE-OFF HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION
The rinse-off hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention can be manufactured from conventional cosmetic processes. An illustrative process comprises the following steps:
- Step (1 ): in a vessel, adding from 30% to 70% of the water and the at least one organic acid, and mixing for about 10 minutes at room temperature;
- Step (2): adding the at least one amino acid, mixing the ingredients until complete solubilization;
- Step (3): adding the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof and the at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof;
- Step (4): heating the mixture until about 60 °C to about 75°C for about
15 minutes.
- Step (5): adding the remaining water into the mixture and cooling down.
- Step (6): adding additional ingredients (if present) cooling down until about 25 °C, adjusting the pH (if necessary) with a pH adjuster.
EMBODIMENTS
An example of a suitable rinse-off hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:
In a preferred embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) from 0.1 % to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one organic acid selected from a-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids, and a mixture thereof, particularly the at least one organic acid is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof;
(b) from 0.1 % to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group selected from is selected from polyols, particularly the polyol is a glycol selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof;
(c) from 0.1 % to 7.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one amino acid selected from arginine and glycine, particularly the amino acid is arginine;
(d) from 0.1 % to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty compound includes:
(i) vegetal resins selected from Copaiba officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) resin (oil resin or resin form), Candeia resin, white breu resin, and mixtures thereof; and/or
(ii) vegetal oils selected from coconut oil, Soja Soybean oil (soybean oil) and mixtures thereof; and/or
(iii) vegetal waxes selected from Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof;
(e) from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one ester selected from cetyl esters, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof;
(f) from 0.05% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof;
(g) water.
In a preferred embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) from 0.1 % to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one organic acid selected from the group consisting of tartaric acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof;
(b) from 0.1 % to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof;
(c) from 0.1 % to 7.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one amino acid selected from arginine;
(d) from 0.1 % to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty compound selected from coconut oil, Copaiba officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) resin, and mixtures thereof;
(e) from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one ester selected from cetyl esters and dicaprylyl carbonate;
(f) from 0.05% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
(g) water.
EXAMPLES
By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.
Inventive Examples A to I
Suitable rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions (Inventive Examples A to D) according to the present invention are exposed in Table 1 below:
TABLE 1
Suitable rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions (Inventive Examples E to I) according to the present invention are exposed in Table 2 below:
The pH of the formulation examples of the invention ranged from about
4 to about 7. It was also found that the presence of the esters in the formulation examples of the invention and/or vegetal waxes improved the spreadability of the formulas during the application of the formulations onto hair. IN VITRO TESTS AND RESULTS
Test Methodology
The technology of the present invention delivers definition with lasting without frizz, since its actives penetrate inside hair, so creating new bounds that makes the hair resist the daily stress for longer. Thus, inventors achieved definition and frizz control superior as standard shampoos in the market. Since the actives can rapidly penetrate inside the hair.
When the shampoo has silicone, the performance on those attributes is improved in volume and frizz control due to the higher deposition of actives in hair surface, while the core ingredients of the technology penetrate. The conditions of the present test are as follows:
all formulas in this invention were applied as shampoo with rinse; the definition measurement was done by imaging data. Highest the value, better the result; the volume and frizz control measurement data were generated by trained panel. The score goes from 1 to 4 in 0.5 in 0.5, where 4 is the highest score (best value); in the Definition measurement, the data presents the subtitles: o T24 means the data was taken after 24 hours of the application; o TAT means the data was taken in the same swatch as T24, but after touching to break the rigid effect; o TAP means that the swatch of TAT is combined, and measurement is taken.
Test 1 - In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo with silicone with pearlizinq agent
Inventive formula of Ex. C is lower than inventive formula of Ex. A in terms of immediate curls definition (T24). In relation to lasting definition (TAT and TAP), there is a tendency towards superiority of inventive formula of Ex. A.
The difference between formulas Ex. A and Ex. C is the addition of the technology’s core ingredients in Ex. C, which allows an improvement in definition as a whole.
Both formulas of inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. C were also compared to the Ex. 1 . This comparison shows that formulation of inventive Ex. A is applied as a rinse off performs similarly to shampoo composition of Ex. C in frizz control and lasting definition (TAT and TAP) while still maintaining superiority in immediate definition (T24).
Therefore, formulation of inventive Ex. A as a rinse off product presents improved results, in addition to its actives themselves, since formulation of inventive Ex. A shows a superiority tendency when used as a rinse-off product used as a shampoo.
These results can be verified in Figures 1A and 1 B.
Test 2 - In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo with silicone without pearlizinq agent
When silicone is added to the standard composition Ex. 2, the immediate definition (T24) and lasting definition (TAP) is similar to formula of inventive Ex. A.
On the other hand, when adding the core ingredients from inventive Ex A in the composition Ex. D, results achieved were similar as inventive Ex. A, and superior in lasting definition TAP as formula Ex. A.
These results can be verified in Figures 2A and 2B.
Test 3 - In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo without silicone with pearlizinq agent
Inventive formula Ex. A achieved the best definition results compared with Ex. 3 and inventive Ex. E in terms of immediate curls definition (T24) and lasting definition (TAT and TAP).
Further, inventive formula Ex. A achieved the best volume and frizz control results compared with Ex. 3 and Ex. E.
Therefore, formulation of inventive Ex. A as a rinse off product presents improved results, in addition to its actives themselves, since formulation of inventive Ex. A shows a superiority tendency when used as a rinse-off product used as a shampoo.
These results can be verified in Figures 3A and 3B.
Test 4 - In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo without silicone without pearlizinq agent
Inventive formula Ex. A achieved the best definition results compared with Ex. 4 and Ex. F in terms of immediate curls definition (T24) and lasting definition (TAT).
Regarding volume and frizz control, inventive formula Ex. A achieved the best definition results compared with Ex. 4 and Ex. F in terms of immediate curls definition (T24) and lasting definition (TAT and TAP) as well.
Therefore, formulation of inventive Ex. A as a rinse off product presents improved results, in addition to its actives themselves, since formulation of inventive Ex. A shows a superiority tendency when used as a rinse-off product used as a shampoo.
These results can be verified in Figures 4A and 4B.
Test 5 - In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo sulfate free with silicone
Inventive formula of Ex. A achieved the best definition results compared with Ex. 5 and Ex. G in terms of immediate curls definition (T24) and lasting definition (TAT).
Further, inventive formula Ex. A achieved the best definition results compared with Ex. 5 and Ex. G in terms of volume and frizz control as well.
These results can be verified in Figures 5A and 5B.
Test 6 - In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo sulfate free without silicone
The formula of inventive Ex. A applied as a rinse-off product used as a shampoo had superior results in volume and frizz control than formula of Ex. 6, which does not have the active ingredients of formula of Ex. A.
By comparing formula of inventive Ex. H, same of Ex. 6 but with core actives from formula Ex. A, it is possible to demonstrate the improvement in volume and frizz control results over the Ex. 6.
These results can be verified in Figures 6A and 6B.
Test 7 - In Vitro Tests of Definition and Volume & Frizz Control on Hair Swatches - Shampoo with pigment
Regarding the pigmented product used as a shampoo, inventive formula of Ex. B had the best curl definition results on T24, TAT and TAP.
For volume and frizz, inventive formula of Ex. B had superiority in volume control compared to shampoo composition without the technology’s active ingredients, such as Ex. 7. However, when adding key ingredients of inventive formula of Ex. B to the shampoo composition of Ex. I, improvement in both volume and frizz control are achieved.
These results can be verified in Figures 7A and 7B.
Claims
1 . Rinse-off hair cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one organic acid;
(b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group;
(c) at least one amino acid;
(d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof;
(e) at least one ester;
(f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and
(g) water.
2. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the organic acid is selected from short chain a-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids, and a mixture thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one organic acid ranges from 0.1 % to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one organic acid is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group is selected from polyols, C2 to Ce monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxylgroup ranges from 0.1 % to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition, according to claim 4, wherein the polyol is selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one amino acid is selected from arginine, glycine, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one amino acid ranges from 0.1 % to 7.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition, according to claim 6, wherein the at least one amino acid is arginine.
8. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one fatty compound includes:
(i) vegetal resins selected from Copaiba officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) resin (oil resin or resin form), Candeia resin, white breu resin, and mixtures thereof;
(ii) vegetal oils selected from coconut oil, Soja Soybean oil (soybean oil) and mixtures thereof;
(iii) vegetal waxes selected from Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one fatty compound ranges from 0.1 % to 14.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one surfactant includes at least one cationic surfactant is a quaternary ammonium salt selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and/or the at least one cationic surfactant is an amino amide cationizable surfactant selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearam idopropyl dimethylamine, stearam idopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenam idoethyldiethyl-am ine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauram idopropyl dimethylamine, myristam idopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palm itam idopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one cationic surfactant ranges from 0.1 % to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one surfactant includes at least one nonionic surfactant selected from at least one fatty alcohol selected from cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, an alkoxylated alcohol, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one nonionic surfactant ranges from 0.1 % to 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one surfactant includes at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from coco-betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one amphoteric surfactant ranges from 1 .0% to 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one surfactant includes at least one anionic surfactant selected sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one amphoteric surfactant ranges from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition, according to claim 1 , comprising at least one ester selected from isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl esters, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one ester ranges from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from perfume/fragrance, preservative agents, vitamins, vegetal extracts, pH-adjusters, pearlizing agents, silicones, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
15. Method of treating hair comprising the steps of:
(1 ) contacting the hair with a rinse-off hair cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one organic acid;
(b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group;
(c) at least one amino acid;
(d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof;
(e) at least one ester;
(f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and
(g) water, and
(2) rinsing the hair cosmetic composition off the hair, with or without a pause time.
16. Method for delivering lasting definition to curly hair, comprising the steps of:
(1 ) contacting the hair with a rinse-off hair cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one organic acid;
(b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group;
(c) at least one amino acid;
(d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof;
(e) at least one ester;
(f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and
(g) water, and
(2) rinsing the hair cosmetic composition off the hair.
17. Use of a composition comprising: a) at least one organic acid;
(b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl-group;
(c) at least one amino acid;
(d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, and mixtures thereof;
(e) at least one ester;
(f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and
(g) water, and for the manufacture of a rinse-off hair care product for providing improved curls definition.
18. Use, according to claim 17, wherein the rinse-off hair care product is a shampoo or is used as shampoo.
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/BR2023/050173 WO2024243652A1 (en) | 2023-05-31 | 2023-05-31 | Rinse-off hair cosmetic composition, method to treat the hair, method for delivering lasting definition for curly hair and use of a composition |
| FR2310394A FR3149782A1 (en) | 2023-05-31 | 2023-09-29 | RINSE-OUT HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION, Hair treatment process, Process for providing lasting definition to curly hair AND Use of a COMPOSITION |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/BR2023/050173 WO2024243652A1 (en) | 2023-05-31 | 2023-05-31 | Rinse-off hair cosmetic composition, method to treat the hair, method for delivering lasting definition for curly hair and use of a composition |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2024243652A1 true WO2024243652A1 (en) | 2024-12-05 |
Family
ID=87060302
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|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/BR2023/050173 Pending WO2024243652A1 (en) | 2023-05-31 | 2023-05-31 | Rinse-off hair cosmetic composition, method to treat the hair, method for delivering lasting definition for curly hair and use of a composition |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR3149782A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2024243652A1 (en) |
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| FR3149782A1 (en) | 2024-12-20 |
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