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WO2024180243A1 - Composition de nettoyage cosmétique comprenant des tensioactifs - Google Patents

Composition de nettoyage cosmétique comprenant des tensioactifs Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024180243A1
WO2024180243A1 PCT/EP2024/055468 EP2024055468W WO2024180243A1 WO 2024180243 A1 WO2024180243 A1 WO 2024180243A1 EP 2024055468 W EP2024055468 W EP 2024055468W WO 2024180243 A1 WO2024180243 A1 WO 2024180243A1
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Prior art keywords
carbon atoms
notably
weight
composition according
chosen
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Inventor
Isabelle Bossant
Johanna Torest
Eva KERSUAL
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for cleansing the skin and integuments, preferably a shower gel or a cleansing product for the face, body, hands and/or hair, comprising an aqueous phase and a combination of specific surfactants, without sulfate.
  • Cleansing the skin is very important for skincare. It must be as effective as possible since fatty residues, such as excess sebum, or the residues of cosmetic products used daily accumulate in the skin folds and can block the skin pores and lead to the appearance of spots.
  • One way of satisfactorily cleansing the skin is to use foaming cleansing products.
  • the foaming cleansing products currently commercially available are in the form of foaming bars, gels or liquids. They generally contain either soaps, which have the advantage of giving a creamy and voluminous foam but can cause tightness due to their excessive detergency, or foaming surfactants of syndet type and stabilizers, which are combined with one another.
  • the use of the foaming cleansing products currently commercially available may cause a tingling effect and/or eye or skin irritation. More and more users, complaining of having sensitive skin, or water that is becoming increasingly hard, wish to opt daily for a shower gel that is as gentle as possible for the skin, and preferably formulated without sulfate.
  • compositions for cleansing and/or caring for keratin materials preferably the skin, which are opaque and which exhibit good eye and skin tolerance, while being foaming and stable, and which provide the skin with a protective and/or moisturizing film.
  • compositions not to present implementation difficulties, but on the contrary for them to be easy to formulate and to manufacture industrially, preferably according to a cold process, that is to say without heating, in particular at ambient temperature (25°C).
  • the aim of the present invention is to provide such compositions, which do not have the drawbacks of the prior art, which have good qualities in terms of use (foam quality, consistency, rinsing speed, hydration of the skin after drying) and also good eye and skin tolerance, and which have an opaque appearance, while being easy to manufacture industrially according to a cold process.
  • compositions comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, at least one linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonate, at least one ethylene glycol ester and at least one crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition, in particular a shower gel, while being formulable without sulfate, that meets the abovementioned requirements, while being stable.
  • the compositions according to the invention have in particular good use qualities and have an opaque and/or pearlescent appearance.
  • composition having an "opaque and/or pearlescent" appearance is understood to mean a composition which, by determination with the naked eye, is neither transparent nor clear.
  • a subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
  • It also relates to a process for cleansing keratin materials, in particular bodily or facial skin, or the hair or the hands, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
  • keratin materials is intended to mean the skin (of the body, face and around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips and/or mucous membranes.
  • cosmetically acceptable medium means any medium that is compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of sulfate, in particular free of sulfated anionic surfactants (that is to say free of anionic surfactants comprising at least one sulfate function but not comprising carboxylate or sulfonate functions).
  • the term "free of” refers to a composition which does not contain (0%) said component, or which contains less than 0.1% by weight of said component, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase contains water.
  • the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizines water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water and Avène water.
  • a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water
  • a natural spring water or mineral water for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water,
  • the aqueous phase optionally contains at least one water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvent.
  • the water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for use in the invention comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example C 1 -C 4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols, such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols for example C 1 -C 4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • polyols such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxy
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvent, preferably at least one polyol.
  • the aqueous phase represents from 20% to 97% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 95% by weight and better still from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least 30% by weight of water, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably from 42% to 90% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 15% by weight of water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvent, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 7% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of betaine type of the invention are preferably chosen from:
  • lauryl betaine such as for example the product Genagen KB® from Clariant, or coco-betaine, such as the product Dehyton AB 30® from BASF or Tego Betain AB 1214 from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH;
  • N-alkylamido betaines and their derivatives in particular cocamidopropyl betaine (for example LEBON 2000 HG® from Sanyo or EMPIGEN BB® from ALBRIGHT AND WILSON or Dehyton PK 45), lauramidopropyl betaine (for example REWOTERIC AMB12P® from WITCO), or N-carboxyethoxyethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate N-di-sodium (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate; e.g. MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRATE NP® from Rhodia CHIMIE);
  • cocamidopropyl betaine for example LEBON 2000 HG® from Sanyo or EMPIGEN BB® from ALBRIGHT AND WILSON or Dehyton PK 45
  • lauramidopropyl betaine for example REWOTERIC AMB12P® from WITCO
  • cocoylamidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine for example, Crosultaine C-500 from Croda
  • amphoteric surfactant of betaine type is chosen from alkyl betaines and N-alkylamido betaines, preferably from N-alkylamido betaines, more preferentially from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises both cocamidopropyl betaine and coco-betaine, preferably the weight ratio of cocamidopropyl betaine to coco-betaine being greater than 1.
  • the content of active material of amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl betaines is preferably between 1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1.5% and 5% by weight.
  • Linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates (or linear alpha-olefin sulfonates)
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention thus comprises one or more linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, preferably comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Said ⁇ -olefin sulfonates are known compounds and are described notably in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry or in patent US 8211850. These compounds are generally obtained by sulfonation of long-chain ⁇ -olefins.
  • the linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates according to the invention generally comprise, in a known manner, a mixture of linear alkene sulfonates, notably of formula (A), optionally as a mixture with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates, notably of formula (B).
  • Said linear alkene sulfonates may thus be of formula (A):
  • R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, even better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and preferentially from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
  • - M is a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen notably from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; and notably Na + or K + .
  • R represents a linear alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • M is derived from an alkali metal, notably Na + or K + .
  • linear alkene sulfonates according to the invention have the formula:
  • R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
  • - M is a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen notably from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; and notably Na + or K + .
  • the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates may be of formula (B):
  • - R’ is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and preferentially from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
  • - M’ is a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen notably from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; and notably Na + or K + .
  • R’ represents a linear alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • M’ is derived from an alkali metal, notably Na + or K + .
  • linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates have the formula:
  • - R’ is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
  • - M’ is a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen notably from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; and notably Na + or K + .
  • R and R’ are identical.
  • M and M’ are identical.
  • the linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates according to the invention are chosen from linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular of alkali metals, notably of sodium.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises said linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, notably from 1% to 15% by weight and preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and better still from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more ethylene glycol esters, preferably chosen from esters of ethylene glycol and of C 8 -C 22 , preferably C 10 -C 20 , preferably C 16 -C 18 , fatty acids.
  • the ethylene glycol ester is chosen from glycol (mono)stearate, glycol distearate (also called ethylene glycol stearic acid diester), and mixtures thereof.
  • the total ethylene glycol ester content in the composition according to the invention is within the range of from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 0.3% to 3%, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5%, preferably from 0.6% to approximately 1%, preferably from 0.7% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Mention may be made in particular of the glycol stearate sold by Stéarinerie Dubois, or that sold under the name Lexemul EGMS by Inolex Chemical Company. Mention may be made in particular of the glycol distearate sold under the references Cutina GDS by BASF, Ercarel Egdo MB by Erca, Ethylene Glycol Distearate Vegetable Fat by Faci, Galaxy (MB) 610 by Galaxy Surfactants, Genapol PMS LO by Clariant, or alternatively Tegin BL 315 MB by Evonik.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises glycol distearate.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more crosslinked anionic acrylic polymers.
  • crosslinked anionic acrylic polymers which can be used according to the invention are advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • a first family of acrylic polymers that is suitable for use is represented by crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, in particular crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers in particular crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series for instance the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Noveon, Ashland or Lubrizol, or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3 VSA.
  • These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.
  • the acrylic polymers which can be used according to the invention can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked anionic copolymer chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of a C 1 -C 4 alkyl acrylate, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and of a C 1 -C 4 alkyl acrylate, and more preferentially crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate.
  • the crosslinked anionic copolymer may notably be in the form of a dispersion in water.
  • the number-average size of the copolymer particles in the dispersion is generally between 10 and 500 nm, preferably between 20 and 200 nm and more preferentially from 50 to 150 nm.
  • copolymers are notably described in patent application WO 01/76552.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion manufactured and sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by Lubrizol or else a crosslinked copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C 1 -C 4 alkyl acrylate sold under the name Aculyn 33 by Rohm & Haas.
  • the total content of crosslinked anionic polymer(s) according to the invention is within the range of from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2%, preferably from 0.1% to 1%, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 0.5%, preferably from 01% to 0.4%, preferably from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional anionic surfactants, other than olefin sulfonates, described above.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the additional surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants not comprising any sulfate groups.
  • the additional anionic surfactants are chosen from anionic surfactants including in their structure one or more sulfate and/or carboxylate groups, preferably carboxylate groups.
  • the additional anionic surfactant(s) may be oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated.
  • the total mean number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then range from 1 to 50 and notably from 1 to 10.
  • the additional carboxylic anionic surfactants can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
  • said carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - acylglutamates notably of C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 , such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates notably of C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 , such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium lauroyl sarcosinate or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;
  • acyllactylates notably of C 12 -C 28 or even C 14 -C 24 , such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the additional anionic sulfonate surfactants other than the linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates above, which may be used include at least one sulfonate function.
  • alkylamidesulfonates alkylarylsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts
  • alkaline-earth metal salts such as magnesium or calcium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the additional anionic surfactants when they are present, are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the additional anionic surfactants that are more particularly preferred may be chosen from carboxylic surfactants, and most particularly from C 6 -C 24 and notably C 12 -C 20 acylsarcosinates; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; better still in the form of alkali salts, notably of sodium, of ammonium salts, of amine salts including amino alcohol salts, and/or of magnesium salts.
  • the additional anionic surfactants may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 5% by weight, even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises all of the anionic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 7% by weight and preferentially from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the amount of linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonate (i) to the amount of anionic surfactant(s) other than the compounds (i) is greater than 1, preferably between 1.2 and 10, in particular between 1.5 and 8, or even between 2 and 7, even better still ranging from 3 to 6.
  • composition according to the invention is said to be "sulfate-free", i.e. it does not comprise any (0%) anionic surfactants comprising sulfate groups, for instance alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates.
  • the total content of amphoteric betaine surfactant(s) is preferably greater than the content of linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates.
  • the total content of amphoteric betaine surfactant(s) is greater than the content of linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates which is itself preferably greater than the content of ethylene glycol ester(s).
  • the composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of composition, a content respectively of between:
  • the total amount of active material of surfactants is between 5% and 20% by weight, preferably between 6% and 15% by weight, preferably between 6% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a salt, in particular an electrolyte.
  • the electrolyte may be chosen from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate.
  • the electrolyte is preferably sodium chloride.
  • the content of electrolyte active material is between 0.2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.7% and 2% by weight.
  • compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen in particular from preserving agents, fragrances, pH adjusters, oils, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, humectants, antifoaming agents, active agents, fillers, propellants or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field.
  • conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen in particular from preserving agents, fragrances, pH adjusters, oils, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, humectants, antifoaming agents, active agents, fillers, propellants or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field.
  • oils such as olive oil, safflower oil, cumin oil and especially black cumin oil (Nigella) or sweet almond oil, or essential oils, such as mint essential oil or peppermint essential oil.
  • vegetable oils such as olive oil, safflower oil, cumin oil and especially black cumin oil (Nigella) or sweet almond oil, or essential oils, such as mint essential oil or peppermint essential oil.
  • essential oils such as mint essential oil or peppermint essential oil.
  • ionic and non-ionic thickeners examples include:
  • polysaccharide biopolymers such as pectin, locust bean gum, gum Arabic, xanthan gum, guar gum and its derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, in particular that sold under the name Jaguar HP105 by Rhodia, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, which may be a mixture of iota, lambda and kappa carrageenans, gellans, alginates, starches or modified celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose, hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, such as the product sold under the name Natrosol 250HHR by Aqualon;
  • AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • composition according to the invention has a viscosity in the range of 120 to 200 s, preferably 130 to 180 s, measured by the following test named “CF6”:
  • a consistometer cup is used, for example the Labomat VF2050 consistometer cup, with a diameter of 6 mm ("CF6").
  • 150 ml of composition are placed in the cup, and the whole is thermostated at 25°C +/- 0.5°C.
  • the cup is placed on a horizontal support, and a beaker is placed underneath on a balance.
  • the flow time is timed so that 90g +/- 0.5g of composition falls to a standardized height of 20 cm into the beaker.
  • the standardized height of 20 cm is the distance from the lower end of the consistometer cup to the surface of the balance. The measurement can only be considered meaningful for a continuous flow of these 90 g.
  • the preferred range of viscosity (130-180s) guarantees a good stability of the composition, a good hold of the composition in the hand and optimized consumer use for the application of the composition. Consistency and thickness of the composition are thus optimal both in and out of the pack (no problem of pouring too quickly).
  • Composition Ex1 according to the invention was prepared by mixing the ingredients in water.
  • glycol distearate is first of all mixed with a betaine surfactant and water, and then all the ingredients are mixed in water.
  • the acrylic polymer made it possible to suspend the pearlescent agents formed by glycol distearate and to stabilize them in the formula so that the opaque appearance obtained is homogeneous.
  • the formula is stable for 2 months at 45°C.
  • Measuring instrument 2100P turbidimeter
  • Ex1 has a higher opacity than that of Cp2 without Acrylates Copolymer.
  • the volunteers chose 1 day in which to perform a 24-hour wear test: a single application of the shower gel in a period of 24 consecutive hours, without applying any body moisturizer.
  • Inclusion criteria - 100 volunteers (50% male/female) aged between 18 and 65, - All ethnicities and phototypes are accepted. - 100% with dry skin on the body - 100% of the women and 60% of the men have sensitive skin on the body.
  • All regular shower gel users 50% users of clear shower gel and 50% users of opaque shower gel.
  • - Living in France All volunteers agree to test the supplied product every day within 3 weeks. - All agree not to use moisturizing body care within 24 hours of wear test (one day during the 1st week).
  • - All volunteers not refractory to floral and powdery perfumes for shower gel.
  • Available for study Panel features ⁇ 109 volunteers (52 women and 57 men), aged 18 to 64, - Average age: 43.7+/-12.8 years old - France
  • compositions according to the invention in which the total content of amphoteric betaine surfactant(s) is respectively less or greater than the content of linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, all things otherwise equal to Table 1:
  • amphoteric betaine surfactant(s) being preferably greater than the content of linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates (in the compositions Ex1 and Ex 3) makes it possible to obtain a viscosity above the standard 130s at the end of manufacturing (159s, 172s respectively, measured by CF6 method as defined above), which confers advantages:
  • composition according to the invention comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, at least one linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonate, at least one ethylene glycol ester, and at least one crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer, makes it possible to obtain a stable, sulfate-free shower gel with an opaque and/or pearlescent appearance, having good qualities of use, in particular in terms of texture, sensoriality, foam quality, and perceived sensations (comfort, softness and moisturization of the skin) after showering.
  • amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, at least one linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonate, at least one ethylene glycol ester, and at least one crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable : une phase aqueuse, au moins un tensioactif amphotère choisi parmi les bétaïnes, au moins un sulfonate d'a-oléfine linéaire, au moins un ester d'éthylène glycol, et au moins un polymère acrylique anionique réticulé.
PCT/EP2024/055468 2023-03-01 2024-03-01 Composition de nettoyage cosmétique comprenant des tensioactifs Pending WO2024180243A1 (fr)

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FRFR2301928 2023-03-01
FR2301928A FR3146275B1 (fr) 2023-03-01 2023-03-01 Composition cosmétique nettoyante comprenant des tensioactifs

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001076552A2 (fr) 2000-04-11 2001-10-18 Noveon Ip Holdings Corp. Compositions tensioactives aqueuses stables
US8211850B2 (en) 2010-11-15 2012-07-03 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Polyglyceryl compounds and compositions
US20190365623A1 (en) * 2018-05-31 2019-12-05 L'oreal Non-sulfate concentrated rinse-off cleansing composition
FR3104978A1 (fr) * 2019-12-18 2021-06-25 L'oreal Procédé de traitement cosmétique des fibres kératiniques comprenant l’application d’une composition prête à l’emploi obtenue par mélange de deux compositions

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001076552A2 (fr) 2000-04-11 2001-10-18 Noveon Ip Holdings Corp. Compositions tensioactives aqueuses stables
US8211850B2 (en) 2010-11-15 2012-07-03 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Polyglyceryl compounds and compositions
US20190365623A1 (en) * 2018-05-31 2019-12-05 L'oreal Non-sulfate concentrated rinse-off cleansing composition
FR3104978A1 (fr) * 2019-12-18 2021-06-25 L'oreal Procédé de traitement cosmétique des fibres kératiniques comprenant l’application d’une composition prête à l’emploi obtenue par mélange de deux compositions

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 12 October 2018 (2018-10-12), ANONYMOUS: "Botanic Active Gel", XP055821005, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/6044749/ Database accession no. 6044749 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 4 July 2012 (2012-07-04), ANONYMOUS: "Candy Apple Shampoo", XP055658310, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/1825910/ Database accession no. 1825910 *

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