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WO2023247575A1 - Composition comprenant au moins un glycolipide, au moins un alcool gras liquide linéaire ou ramifié, au moins une huile non siliconée et au moins un tensioactif, utilisation et procédé utilisant la composition - Google Patents

Composition comprenant au moins un glycolipide, au moins un alcool gras liquide linéaire ou ramifié, au moins une huile non siliconée et au moins un tensioactif, utilisation et procédé utilisant la composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023247575A1
WO2023247575A1 PCT/EP2023/066698 EP2023066698W WO2023247575A1 WO 2023247575 A1 WO2023247575 A1 WO 2023247575A1 EP 2023066698 W EP2023066698 W EP 2023066698W WO 2023247575 A1 WO2023247575 A1 WO 2023247575A1
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composition
composition according
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Julia PUECH
Romain FANFAN
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol, at least one non-silicone oil and at least one surfactant, use and process using the composition
  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, notably intended for reducing the appearance of skin blackheads and/or for preventing skin blackheads.
  • the present invention is directed towards proposing a composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, at one non-silicone oil and at least one surfactant.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a composition for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition as described previously.
  • the term “skin” is understood to denote all of the skin of the body, excluding the scalp and the mucous membranes.
  • the term “skin” targets the skin of the face and/or of the hands, in particular the skin of the face, more particularly the skin of the forehead and/or of the alae of the nose and/or of the chin.
  • a skin blackhead results from the process of comedogenesis which affects the pilosebaceous units of sebaceous follicle type, which are predominantly distributed on the face. From a clinical perspective, a skin blackhead is thus an open comedone (non-inflammatory lesion) characterized by distension of the hair canal, sebum retention and excessive cornification of the pilosebaceous duct. Hypercornification is considered to result in sebum retention and in the accumulation of cell debris.
  • Some of these solutions are based more particularly on treating blackheads with an active agent that is capable of preventing, altering or eliminating the blackheads.
  • an active agent that is capable of preventing, altering or eliminating the blackheads.
  • active agents that are capable of dissolving the lipids constituting the blackheads, such as the alkyl lactate derivatives described in patent US 4 540 567, the lipase enzyme, described in patent application US 2006/051339, or else neutralized fatty acids as described in patent application EP 3 150 187.
  • glycolipids and notably di-rhamnolipids, inhibit the formation of skin blackheads, probably by intervening in the process of oxidation of L- DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine).
  • L-DOPA is involved in the very complex melanogenesis mechanism. More specifically, the oxidation of L-DOPA, promoted by the microbial activity present in the comedone, is expressed by a colouring effect probably of dopachrome type, the latter being a coloured intermediate of the melanin biosynthesis pathway.
  • the di-rhamnolipids appear to impair the formation of the product of the oxidation reaction in the comedones and thus inhibit their black or brown colouration.
  • Such compounds have already been used in cleansing compositions, described in patent application WO 2020/114793, notably for cleansing cosmetic residues, undesirable microorganisms or the body’s own excretions such as sebum.
  • compositions may also lead to cosmetic properties that do not meet users’ expectations, notably the formation of lint when the product is applied.
  • glycolipids in cosmetic compositions, while retaining good stability and satisfactory sensory results, and with the least possible environmental impact.
  • the aim of the present invention is to solve the abovementioned technical problems.
  • compositions that are compatible with the current consumer demands notably regarding the environment.
  • the present invention is specifically directed towards meeting these needs.
  • the present invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • At least one surfactant preferably chosen from anionic and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that by combining a specific fatty alcohol with glycolipids, a surfactant and a silicone oil, it is possible to obtain effective, stable compositions with a pleasant final sensory quality.
  • This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.
  • the invention also relates to a skincare process, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of a composition as defined previously.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use of a composition as described previously for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.
  • composition according to the invention is cosmetic and/or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.
  • composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
  • cosmetic refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and the integuments.
  • the composition according to the invention is non- therapeutic.
  • a cosmetically acceptable medium i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one glycolipid.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three glycolipids.
  • glycolipids are used, they may be identical or different.
  • glycolipid means a compound formed from a lipid to which are attached one or more sugar compounds.
  • the glycolipid(s) may be chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof.
  • the glycolipid(s) are chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from rhamnolipids.
  • the composition comprises at least one glycolipid chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially comprises at least one rhamnolipid.
  • glycolipid(s) may be glucolipids, which comprise a glucose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (I):
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation
  • - q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.
  • the glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.
  • the appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203).
  • the glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using ethyl ether or a dichloromethane/methanol or chloroform/methanol mixture.
  • glycolipid(s) may be sophorolipids, which comprise a sophorose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (II):
  • R 3 and R 4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group
  • R 5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl,
  • R 6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms in the groups R 5 and R 6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18,
  • R 7 represents a hydrogen atom
  • R 8 represents a hydroxyl group OH, or R 7 and R 8 together form a lactone ring.
  • Sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the invention either in the form of the open-chain free acid, in which R 7 represents a hydrogen atom and R 8 represents a hydroxyl group OH, or in its lactone form, in which a lactone ring is formed between R 7 and R 8 , as indicated in formula (III): [Chem 3] in which:
  • R 3 , R 4 , R 5 and R 6 are as defined above, with the proviso that at least one of R 3 and R 4 represents an acetyl group.
  • the sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola.
  • the fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.
  • sophorolipids examples include the product sold under the name Sopholiances by Givaudan and the product sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.
  • glycolipid(s) may be trehalolipids, which comprise a trehalose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (IV):
  • R 9 , R 10 and R 11 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.
  • the trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis . Suitable fermentation methods are provided by Ishigami et al. (1987) J. Jpn Oil Chem. Soc. 36 847- 851, Schultz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch. 46C 197-203; and Passeri et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch. 46C 204-209. Cellobiose lipids
  • the glycolipid(s) may be cellobiose lipids, which comprise a cellobiose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (V):
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation
  • R 12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,
  • R 13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group
  • R 14 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the cellobiose lipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. Appropriate fermentation processes are provided by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.
  • the glycolipid(s) may be rhamnolipids.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.
  • Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or of two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked via a glycosidic bond to one, two or three chains of P-hydroxylated fatty acids linked to each other via an ester bond.
  • the rhamnolipids are chosen from mono- and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to formula (VI) below: [Chem 6]
  • - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,
  • - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0,
  • - Ri and R2 independently of each other, represent identical or different hydrocarbon-based radicals containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
  • formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
  • - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
  • - n denotes an integer equal to 1 ;
  • - Ri and R2 independently of each other, represent identical or different hydrocarbon-based radicals containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
  • glyco sidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments may be in the alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in the alpha configuration.
  • the salts of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly the carboxylate salts thereof with an organic or inorganic cation and notably with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium,
  • the solvated forms of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules of water or of organic solvents, for example a hydrate or a solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids preferably being in the form of the R enantiomers, and
  • alkyl denotes a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group; for example, a C1-C20 alkyl group containing a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
  • - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
  • - n denotes an integer equal to 1 ;
  • - Ri and R2 which may be identical or different, are chosen from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals and radicals of formula -(CtDoCHs with o denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1. According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) below:
  • - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,
  • - Ri is a radical -(CtDp-CHs, with p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,
  • - R2 is a radical -(CtDq-CHs, with q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
  • di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) that may be suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of the compounds of formula Di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below.
  • Di-RL-CXCY is an alternative way of writing in order to represent a di- rhamnolipid (Di-RL) functionalized with two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, also referred to as di-RL-ClOClO, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
  • VI di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, also referred to as di-RL-ClOClO, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
  • the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
  • VI di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CtDoCHs, with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals, and preferably Ri represents a -(CfhleCHs radical and R2 is a nonenyl radical, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
  • formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1
  • Ri represents a radical -(CtDoCHs, with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12
  • R2 is chosen from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decen
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) as defined previously, and more preferentially chosen from: - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1,
  • Ri represents a radical -(CH2) O CH3 with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12
  • R2 is chosen from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals, and preferably, Ri is a -(ClRvCHs radical and R2 is a nonenyl radical.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from:
  • a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids,
  • Ri represents a -(CFDeCFL radical and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
  • the rhamnolipids are conventionally prepared via processes known to those skilled in the art starting from producing bacteria, such as Pseudomonas strains.
  • rhamnolipids use may be made of the product sold under the name Rheance One by the company Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids).
  • the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of glycolipid(s) ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of rhamnolipid(s) ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, notably 18 carbon atoms.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the “liquid fatty alcohols” are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure and are insoluble in water (i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight) and are soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly) to at least 1% by weight.
  • organic solvent for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly
  • the fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms may be chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (dodecan-l-ol), 2 -butyl- 1 -octanol, 2 -hexyl- 1 -decanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms are linear.
  • the fatty alcohols may be mixed, which means that several species may coexist in a commercial product, notably species of different chain lengths, in the form of a mixture.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least oleyl alcohol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s) comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises oleyl alcohol in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s) comprising between 6 and 18 carbon atoms/glycolipid(s) weight ratio of between 0.5 and 2, in particular between 0.75 and 1.75, more preferentially between 0.9 and 1.35.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil, notably a cosmetic non-silicone oil.
  • oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the non-silicone oil may be chosen in particular from volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbonbased oils.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals, provided that these oils are environmentally friendly.
  • volatile oil means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (IO -3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or fluoro oils.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms mention may be made notably of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Cs-Ci6 alkanes for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • n-dodecane C12
  • n-tetradecane C14
  • the undecanetridecane mixture mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof
  • Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoro methoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoro-pentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoro methoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoro-pentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-volatile refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10’ 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the non-volatile oils may notably be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based and fluoro oils.
  • the non-volatile oil is at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may notably be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof, non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20°C measured with a Rheomat RM 100® viscometer from Lamy Rheology.
  • non- volatile alkane means a hydrocarbon-based cosmetic oil which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a vapour pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) of article 2 of European Council Directive 1999/13/EC of 11 March, 1992: “Any organic compound having, at a temperature of 293.15 K, a vapour pressure of 0.01 kPa or more”.
  • VOC Volatile Organic Compound
  • the nonvolatile alkanes comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products sold under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from SEPPIC, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths of from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheatgerm oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, com oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil
  • cocoyl caprylate/caprate for example sold under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois
  • synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicapryl ether
  • synthetic esters such as the oils of formula R1COOR2
  • Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms
  • R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Wi
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, and preferably at least one nonvolatile ester oil.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile non- silicone oil, preferably at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more preferentially chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, and preferably cocoyl caprylate/caprate.
  • non-silicone oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant.
  • the surfactant is different from the glycolipid(s) and the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s).
  • the surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition may comprise a content of surfactant(s) ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise several surfactants.
  • An emulsifying surfactant appropriately chosen to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion is preferably used.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • the nonionic surfactants may notably be chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and poly alkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one anionic surfactant.
  • the anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C10-C30 and notably C16-C25 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates and behenates, mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, alkyl ether citrates, alkoxylated glucose alkenyl succinates and alkoxylated methylglucose alkenyl succinates, phosphoric acid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • mixed esters that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of the mixed ester of glycerol and of the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (INCI name: Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and of isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (INCI name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, and preferably glyceryl stearate citrate.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant.
  • the cationic surfactants may be chosen from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts such as (Ci2-30-alkyl)-tri(Ci-4- alkyl) ammonium halides for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride), and mixtures thereof.
  • alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate
  • ammonium salts such as (Ci2-30-alkyl)-tri(Ci-4- alkyl) ammonium halides for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride), and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.
  • amphoteric surfactants for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate
  • amine oxides such as stearamine oxide
  • silicone surfactants for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant different from the glycolipid(s) and the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s), chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from anionic surfactants, even more preferentially from mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, and preferably glyceryl stearate citrate.
  • surfactant different from the glycolipid(s) and the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s), chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from anionic surfactants, even more preferentially from mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, and preferably glyceryl stearate citrate.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise additional oils.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-silicone oil, and at least one oil which is different from this first oil.
  • the oil(s) that are different from the non-silicone oil of the composition according to the invention may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and volatile and/or non-volatile fluoro oils, as described previously, and/or volatile and/or non-volatile silicone oils.
  • volatile oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably at least one Si-0 group.
  • the volatile silicone oils may be chosen from volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
  • Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.
  • non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen from:
  • non-phenyl silicone oils for instance caprylyl methicone
  • phenyl silicone oils for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in an oil.
  • the other fatty substances that may be present in the composition are, for example: solid fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid and palmitic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes; fatty alcohol waxes such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl(Ci-C4)alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the name “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “T
  • the composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one butter, more particularly a plant butter.
  • the plant butter(s) that are suitable for use in the invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, in particular the product having the INCI name Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, urucum butter and mixtures thereof.
  • These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is devoid (free) of silicone oil(s).
  • the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise from 50% to 99.5% by weight and preferably from 60% to 90% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight of water-soluble solvent, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight of water-soluble solvent and more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight of water-soluble solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, more preferentially a C2-C32 polyol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
  • a polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
  • the polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those notably containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol may, for example, be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3- propanediol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • said polyol is chosen from caprylyl glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least glycerol.
  • composition according to the invention comprises from 1% to 10% by weight of polyol(s), preferably from 3% to 8% by weight of polyol(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may be anhydrous.
  • anhydrous composition means a composition with a water (or aqueous phase) content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the weight of said composition, or alternatively even less than 0.5% and is notably free of water.
  • the water mentioned includes the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, in particular chosen from those conventionally used in care compositions.
  • the term "'fillers'" is intended to denote colourless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • these fillers are used in appropriate contents and under appropriate conditions so as not to be detrimental to the properties of the composition.
  • talc talc
  • mica silica
  • silica kaolin
  • C8-C22 N-acylamino acid particles poly-P-alanine powder and polyethylene powder
  • lauroyllysine modified or unmodified starches
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles boron nitride
  • hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, metal oxides such as aluminium oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsul
  • micronized waxes in particular natural waxes. Mention may notably be made of the carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350® by the company Micro Powders or under the name Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster by the company Lubrizol. Such additional micronized waxes notably allow the properties to be improved when the composition is applied to the skin.
  • the filler when it is present, is a silicon-free filler.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one filler, in particular chosen from modified or unmodified starches.
  • starch molecules that are suitable for use as fillers according to the present invention may originate from all plant sources of starch, notably cereals, vegetables and tubers. More particularly, they may be corn, rice, rice husk, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat or tapioca starches.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises native tapioca starch powder, rice husk powder, or mixtures thereof, and more preferentially native tapioca starch powder.
  • the modified starch may be a (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl starch.
  • the C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxymethyl starches.
  • the carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxymethyl starch (INCI name: Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch), in particular a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch, such as those sold under the name Primojel® by the company DMV International or Glycolys® and Glycolys® LV by the company Roquette.
  • the filler(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, notably between 0.2% and 7.0% by weight, in particular between 0.5% and 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polysaccharide polymer.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, and at least one polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
  • heteropolysaccharide means a polysaccharide formed from different mono- saccharides.
  • a homopolysaccharide is a polysaccharide formed from a single mono-saccharide.
  • the polysaccharide polymer(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
  • the polysaccharide polymer(s) chosen from non- starchy heteropolysaccharides may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • non-starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from heteropolysaccharides produced by microorganisms.
  • heteropolysaccharides produced by microorganisms may be chosen from xanthan gum, succinoglycan, gellan gums and mixtures thereof.
  • Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm).
  • Xanthan gums are sold, for example, under the name Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name SatiaxaneTM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name NovaxanTM by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.
  • Succinoglycans are sold, for example, under the name Rheozan by the company Rhodia.
  • Gellan gum is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP-Kelco.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least xanthan gum.
  • the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from heteropolysaccharides isolated from algae.
  • the heteropolysaccharides isolated from algae may be chosen from alginate-based compounds.
  • alginate-based compound means alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and salts of alginic acid (alginates) or of said derivatives.
  • alginate-based compounds with a weight- average molecular mass ranging from 10000 to 1 000000, preferably from 15 000 to 500 000 and better still from 20000 to 250 000.
  • the alginate-based compound is alginic acid and/or a salt thereof.
  • the alginate-based compound is an alginate salt, and preferably sodium alginate.
  • alginate-based compounds that are suitable for use in the invention may be sold under the names Kelcosol, SatialgineTM, CecalgumTM or AlgogelTM by the company Cargill Products, under the name ProtanalTM by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name Grindsted® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name Kimica Algin by the company Kimica, and under the names Manucol® and Manugel® by the company ISP.
  • the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from heteropolysaccharides of higher plants, and in particular heterogeneous heteropolysaccharides and derivatives thereof.
  • acacia gum galactomannans such as guar gum and derivatives thereof, fenugreek gum, tara gum and locust bean gum, glucomannans (konjac gum), LM and HM pectins and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the unmodified nonionic guar gums are sold, for example, under the names Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name ViscogumTM by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aquaion.
  • Hydrolysed nonionic guar gums are sold, for example, under the name Meyprodor® by the company Danisco.
  • Nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Rhodia or under the name N-Hance® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aquaion.
  • Guar gums modified with cationic groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar Excel, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aquaion.
  • the anionic guar gums may be chosen from carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).
  • Unmodified locust bean gum is notably sold under the name ViscogumTM by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin, and under the name Grinsted® LBG by the company Danisco.
  • the chemically modified locust bean gums may be chosen from the cationic locust bean gums sold, for example, under the name Catinal CLB (locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the company Toho.
  • Tara gum is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin.
  • Konjac gum is sold, for example, under the names Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shimizu.
  • Pectins are notably sold by the company Cargill under the name UnipectineTM, by the company CP-Kelco under the name Genu, and by Danisco under the name Grinsted Pectin.
  • the composition comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer different from the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise the polysaccharide polymer(s) different from the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 1.5% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition.
  • Such a polymer may notably be chosen from non-starchy homopolysaccharides.
  • non-starchy homopolysaccharides may be chosen from homopolysaccharides produced by microorganisms or fungi, in particular chosen from pullulan, dextran and dextran sulfate, scleroglucan gum and mixtures thereof.
  • Pullulan is produced, for example, under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the group Hayashibara in Japan.
  • Dextran is sold, for example, under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, or under the name Dextran 40 Powder or Dextran 70 Powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co.
  • Dextran sulfate is notably sold by the company PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.
  • Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigel by the company Alban Muller, or under the name ActigumTM CS by the company Cargill.
  • the polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides is chosen from non-starchy homopolysaccharides, in particular from homopolysaccharides produced by microorganisms or fungi, and preferably is scleroglucan gum.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum.
  • the non-starchy homopolysaccharides may also be chosen from homopolysaccharides isolated from algae, in particular chosen from galactans, furcellaran and mixtures thereof.
  • the galactans may be chosen from agar or carrageenans.
  • the carrageenans are notably sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact® and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill under the names SatiagelTM and SatiagumTM, and by the company CP- Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.
  • Agar is produced, for example, by the group B&V Agar Producers under the names Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar- Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam.
  • Furcellaran is produced, for example, by the company Est-Agar.
  • the non-starchy homopolysaccharides may also be chosen from homopolysaccharides of higher plants, and in particular homogeneous homopolysaccharides and derivatives thereof.
  • These polymers may notably be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructosans.
  • Celluloses that may notably be mentioned include quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing Cs-Cso fatty chains, such as the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
  • Quatrisoft LM 200 Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A
  • Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B C12 alkyl
  • Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8
  • celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, notably of C8-C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (Ci6 alkyl) sold by the company Aquaion, and celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol.
  • HM-1500 polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenyl ether
  • the celluloses and derivatives may also be sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company AkzoNobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, and under the names Aquaion® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), BlanoseTM (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminal® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxy ethylcellulose) by the company Hercules Aquaion.
  • Avicel® microcrystalline cellulose, MCC
  • Cekol carboxymethylcellulose
  • the fructosan may be chosen from inulin and derivatives thereof (notably dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins).
  • Inulin is sold, for example, under the name BeneoTM inulin by the company Orafti, and under the name Frutafit® by the company Sensus.
  • non-starchy homopolysaccharides mention may also be made of chitin (poly- N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, P(l,4)-2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose).
  • the polysaccharide polymer different from non- starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from starchy polysaccharides.
  • the native starches are sold, for example, under the names C*AmilogelTM, Cargill GelTM, C* GelTM, Cargill GumTM, DryGelTM and C*Pharm GelTM by the company Cargill, under the name Amidon de Mais by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.
  • the modified starches are sold, for example, under the names C*Tex-Instant (pregelatinized adipate), C*StabiTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized phosphate), C*PolarTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized hydroxypropyl), C*Set (acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C*size (oxidation), C*BatterCrisp (oxidation), C*DrySet (dextrinization), C*TexTM (acetylated distarch adipate), C*PolarTexTM (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), C* StabiTexTM (distarch phosphate, acetylated distarch phosphate) by the company Cargill.
  • C*Tex-Instant pregelatinized adipate
  • C*StabiTex-Instant pre-gelatinized phosphate
  • C*PolarTex-Instant pre-gelatinized hydroxypropyl
  • C*Set acid hydrolysis, oxid
  • distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate may also be chosen from distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).
  • oxidized starches examples include the products sold under the name C*size from the company Cargill.
  • Particulate starches that may be mentioned in particular include:
  • - hydrolysed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer), and notably acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, for instance those sold under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A-100, C-200 and D-223 by the company Grain Processing (INCI name: Starch/acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer);
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent.
  • It may in particular be at least one active agent for caring for greasy skin.
  • additional active agent means a compound which has, by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent in order to activate it, a biological activity which may in particular be:
  • the additional active agent that may be used in the compositions of the invention is preferentially chosen from desquamating agents, calmative agents, anti-irritant agents, sebum-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents, depigmenting agents, anti-ageing agents, mattifying agents, wound-healing agents, antibacterial agents, vitamins, astringent agents and mixtures thereof in any proportions.
  • composition according to the invention may also include at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preserving agents, fragrances, polar additives, film-forming polymers other than polysaccharide polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), dispersants, and mixtures thereof.
  • additives chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preserving agents, fragrances, polar additives, film-forming polymers other than polysaccharide polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), dispersants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional active agent used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and better still from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used according to the invention may be in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field.
  • aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution which may be gelled
  • a dispersion of the lotion type which may be a two-phase dispersion, an oil-in- water or water-in-oil emulsion or a multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, or else a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, notably using spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymeric particles or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type.
  • the composition may be of more or less fluid liquid consistency.
  • composition considered according to the invention differs from compositions having an essentially detergent purpose with regard to the skin, hair and/or mucous membranes, such as soaps, shampoos and shower gels for washing and/or cleansing.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise any constituent usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.
  • composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, notably obtained by dispersion of an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W/O) or of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft consistency, or even of multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O).
  • W/O aqueous phase
  • O/W aqueous phase
  • this composition is intended for topical application and preferably is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • an emulsion is not intended to be rinsed off after application.
  • composition according to the invention is intended to be applied to the skin.
  • the skin is the skin of the face and/or of the body, in particular of the face and/or of the hands, preferably of the face, and more particularly of the forehead and/or of the alae of the nose and/or of the chin.
  • the pH of said composition is advantageously less than or equal to 8, preferably ranging from 4 to 7, better still ranging from 4.5 to 6.5.
  • composition may alternatively be in the form of a face and/or body care or makeup product, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of a cream in a jar or a fluid in a tube or a pump bottle or a dropper bottle.
  • composition according to the invention may be manufactured via any known process generally used in the cosmetics field.
  • the ingredients are mixed, before being formed, in the order and under conditions that may readily be determined by a person skilled in the art.
  • composition according to the invention may also be added to the composition according to the invention.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined previously for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising at least one step in which a composition as defined previously is applied to said keratin materials.
  • the cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.
  • the cosmetic use or process of the invention is performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention.
  • the topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.
  • the cosmetic use or process according to the invention may be performed by topical, for example daily, application of at least one composition according to the invention, which may be formulated, for example, in the form of a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion, makeup-removing milk or after-sun composition, preferably in emulsion form.
  • the application is repeated, for example, 1 to 2 times daily for one or more days and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, indeed even 4 to 15 weeks, with, if appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.
  • the application is daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, indeed even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.
  • composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin that have been cleansed beforehand, for example using an appropriate soap, and/or freed beforehand of blackheads, for example using an adhesive patch or a mechanical action.
  • the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin that have been previously cleansed using a washing solution.
  • treatment combinations optionally with topical forms may be envisaged, so as to complement or reinforce the activity of the composition according to the invention.
  • a topical treatment with the composition according to the invention, combined with an ancillary composition intended for topical application, is conceivable.
  • the present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic process for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising: a) a step of topical application to the skin of a washing solution; b) a step of topical application to the skin of a composition according to the invention, notably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion; and c) optionally, a step of topical application of a composition different from the composition applied in step b), it being possible for steps b) and c) to be performed simultaneously or successively.
  • Such a composition applied in step c) can be termed a “supplementary composition”.
  • the washing solution may notably be in various forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), or others, preferably in the form of a solution or an aqueous gel.
  • compositions may be evaluated according to the following protocol.
  • composition to be tested are evaluated immediately after its preparation.
  • composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at various temperatures: room temperature (about 20°C), 4°C, 37°C and 45°C.
  • the temperature may be regulated using an oven, for example Firlabo’s Bio Concept machine.
  • the properties are evaluated after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.
  • the viscosity of the composition measured with a viscometer, for example a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer from Lamy Rheology according to the CID-012-02 method;
  • the appearance of the composition in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under a microscope between slide and coverslip, at X10 magnification;
  • composition after 1 month and/or 2 months of storage remain to those initially measured, the more the composition may be considered as remaining stable.
  • the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, with no leaching, no phase separation and no change in colour, then it is considered to be stable.
  • the playtime evaluation consists in noting the performance of the composition in terms of glidance/softness on a scale ranging from 1 (not at all glidant/soft) to 5 (very glidant/soft). To do this, 50 pL of the composition to be tested are taken up using an Eppendorf micropipette fitted with a 0.5 mL combitip, then placed on a SKIN FX support (Reference: SHEET MEDIUM BACK K6 LANGUETTE from AXON CABLE SAS) applied to the back of the hand.
  • composition is then spread by hand, using approximately 15 rotations, twice at 15- second intervals.
  • the composition thus spread is left to dry for 120 seconds and the fingers are rinsed with a cloth moistened with warm water.
  • the glidance/softness is evaluated using the index and middle fingers after drying. Between two evaluations, the fingers are rinsed using a cloth moistened with warm water. The study is performed by a panel of five experienced people who individually evaluate the glidance/softness according to the above protocol. The result is expressed as the average of the scores obtained, rounded to the nearest halfunit, according to the following scale:
  • - score equal to 3: average glidance/softness; - score > 3: glidant/soft.
  • composition is considered glidant/soft if its average score according to the above protocol is greater than or equal to 3.0.
  • compositions according to the invention (II) and a composition outside the invention (Cl), in particular not comprising any linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising between 6 and 18 carbon atoms were prepared.
  • These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise the compounds detailed in Table 2 below, in contents expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • phase Al are heated to a temperature of 75 °C with paddle stirring until a perfectly homogeneous medium is obtained.
  • the components of phase A2 are dispersed in this heated mixture using a rotor/stator until a perfectly homogeneous, gel- free medium is obtained.
  • the components of phase B are dispersed in the mixture using a rotor/stator until a perfectly homogeneous medium is obtained.
  • the components of phase C are added and homogenized using a rotor/stator, with cooling at a temperature of 25 °C.
  • the components of phase D are dispersed using a rotor/stator until a homogeneous medium is obtained, while keeping the temperature at 25°C.
  • the components of phase E are added with paddle stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
  • composition II according to the invention was evaluated according to the measurement protocols detailed above.
  • Composition II according to the invention is stable, in the sense that no significant change in its properties is observed, even after storage for 2 months at 45°C.
  • composition Cl which is outside the invention, shows leaching of oil on the surface after 2 months of storage at 45 °C and is thus unstable.
  • composition II According to the invention, there is a significant superiority in the perception of the glidance/softness of composition II according to the invention compared with composition Cl.
  • the composition according to the invention comprising at least one glycolipid and at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising between 6 and 18 carbon atoms, in particular at least oleyl alcohol, has both advantageous stability and advantageous sensory properties, compared with a composition not comprising any linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising between 6 and 18 carbon atoms.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition comprenant au moins un glycolipide, au moins un alcool gras liquide linéaire ou ramifié comprenant de 6 à 18 atomes de carbone, au moins une huile non siliconée et au moins un tensioactif. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'une telle composition pour réduire et/ou inhiber et/ou prévenir l'apparition de têtes noires sur des matières kératiniques telles que la peau, et un procédé cosmétique pour le soin des matières kératiniques, telles que la peau, comprenant au moins une étape d'application d'une telle composition sur lesdites matières kératiniques.
PCT/EP2023/066698 2022-06-20 2023-06-20 Composition comprenant au moins un glycolipide, au moins un alcool gras liquide linéaire ou ramifié, au moins une huile non siliconée et au moins un tensioactif, utilisation et procédé utilisant la composition Ceased WO2023247575A1 (fr)

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FR2206013A FR3136659A1 (fr) 2022-06-20 2022-06-20 Composition comprenant au moins un glycolipide, au moins un alcool gras linéaire ou ramifié liquide, au moins une huile non siliconée et au moins un tensioactif, utilisation et procédé mettant en œuvre la composition
FRFR2206013 2022-06-20

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WO2025222372A1 (fr) * 2024-04-23 2025-10-30 L'oreal Composition pour le nettoyage et/ou le démaquillage de matières kératiniques
WO2025222366A1 (fr) * 2024-04-23 2025-10-30 L'oreal Composition de nettoyage et/ou de démaquillage de matières kératiniques
WO2025222373A1 (fr) * 2024-04-23 2025-10-30 L'oreal Composition pour le nettoyage et/ou le démaquillage de matières kératiniques

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2025222372A1 (fr) * 2024-04-23 2025-10-30 L'oreal Composition pour le nettoyage et/ou le démaquillage de matières kératiniques
WO2025222366A1 (fr) * 2024-04-23 2025-10-30 L'oreal Composition de nettoyage et/ou de démaquillage de matières kératiniques
WO2025222373A1 (fr) * 2024-04-23 2025-10-30 L'oreal Composition pour le nettoyage et/ou le démaquillage de matières kératiniques

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