Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
  • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

• composition comprising a silane and a polysaccharide bearing
• the present patent application relates to a composition comprising a silane and a polysaccharide bearing hydrophobic groups, and to the use of the said composition in cosmetics and dermatology, in particular for caring for or treating keratin materials.
• Hydrophobic-modified polysaccharides are increasingly used in cosmetics for stabilizing direct emulsions or even inverse emulsions.
• patent FR 2925362 describes the use of these compounds for improving the stability of inverse emulsions comprising a polyglyceryl stearate.
• these polysaccharides have the drawback of giving compositions that do not always have good cosmetic properties, in particular: a non-glidant feel on application - which makes the application difficult and may be associated with a final sensation of non-moisturized, dry skin; hydrophobic-modified polysaccharides have a tacky feel on application and after penetration into the skin, especially when these materials are used in amounts exceeding 1 -2%; which is often necessary to ensure good stability and/or a thickening effect of the composition.
• the cosmetic properties sought are a soft and pleasant feel on application, no dragging or coarse effect, and good glidance during application and after application to keratin materials and more particularly the skin.
• the object of the invention is to be able to prepare compositions, especially emulsions, with good cosmetic properties without having the drawbacks of the prior art.
• One subject of the present invention is thus a composition, especially in the form of an emulsion, comprising at least one silane of formula (I) as described below and at least one polysaccharide bearing hydrophobic groups, the silanes of formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof being present in an active material content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• This composition may be obtained by mixing at least one silane as described below and at least one polysaccharide bearing hydrophobic groups.
• composition of the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, mucous membranes and keratin fibres (such as the hair or the eyelashes).
• a physiologically acceptable medium i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, mucous membranes and keratin fibres (such as the hair or the eyelashes).
• composition obtained according to the invention has the advantage of having a homogeneous, non-tacky texture and of being very gentle on application to the skin and after penetration of the product, without a dragging or coarse effect on the skin.
• compositions spread particularly well on keratin materials such as the skin and the hair.
• a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.
• silanes that may be used in the composition according to the invention are those corresponding to formula (I) below and/or oligomers thereof:
• ⁇ Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 -C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, C3-C40 cycloalkyl or C6-C30 aromatic; optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group, a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl), which is substituted or unsubstituted; Ri possibly being interrupted with a heteroatom (O, S or NH) or a carbonyl group (CO),
• R 2 and R3 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
• ⁇ x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2
• oligomer means the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
• R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group.
• R3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl groups.
• Ri represents an alkyl group, and even more preferentially a linear alkyl group, comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms.
• Ri represents an octyl group.
• z ranges from 1 to 3. Even more preferentially, z is equal to 3.
• the composition comprises at least one silane chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane. More particularly, the composition comprises at least octyltriethoxysilane (OTES).
• OTES octyltriethoxysilane
• silanes of formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight and preferentially ranging from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Polysaccharides are polymers having monosaccharides or disaccharides as base units.
• the compounds of this type that may be used in the present invention are chosen from those described especially in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896- 900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E.A. MacGregor and C.T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc.
• the polysaccharides are especially chosen especially from fructans, glucans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, corn or rice, from legumes, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses), xylans such as arabinoxylans and glucuronoxylans, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucans such as xyloglucans and glycosaminoglucans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arabics, gum tragacanths, ghatti gums,
• the hydrophobic groups that may be grafted onto the main chain of the polysaccharide may especially be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably C8-C22, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or alkylene groups; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains.
• hydrocarbon-based or organopolysiloxane chains may especially comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide functions especially such as methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.
• the polysaccharides bearing hydrophobic groups are chosen, for example, from celluloses, guar gums and fructans.
• the hydrophobic groups are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, alkyloyloxy, alkyloyl, alkyl carbamate arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups.
• the aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
• the celluloses may be chosen from:
• - celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, especially of C8-C22, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, for instance Polysurf 67 CS or Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon,
• alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500® (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
• - quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,
• - quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.
• the alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
• the aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
• quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing Cs- C30 fatty chains examples include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (Ci 8 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL®
• the guar gums bearing hydrophobic groups are especially chosen from hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as the product Esaflor HM 22® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18® (Ci 4 alkyl chain) and RE205- 1 ® (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia Chimie.
• the fructans bearing hydrophobic groups are especially chosen from fructans modified with groups comprising at least one C6-C30 fatty chain.
• Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally combined with several saccharide residues other than fructose.
• Fructans may be linear or branched.
• Fructans may be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or alternatively products whose chain length has been modified (increased or decreased) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular enzymatic.
• Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60.
• the first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are for the most part linked via ⁇ -2-1 bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins.
• the second group also corresponds to linear fructoses, but the fructose units are essentially linked via ⁇ -2-6 bonds. These products are levans.
• the third group corresponds to mixed fructans, i.e. containing ⁇ -2-6 and ⁇ -2-1 sequences. These are essentially branched fructans, such as graminans.
• Inulin may be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke.
• the inulin used in the composition according to the invention is obtained, for example, from chicory.
• Hydrophobic-modified fructans are generally obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of the fructan.
• the hydrophobic chains that may be grafted onto the main chain of the fructan may especially be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or alkylene groups; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains.
• These hydrocarbon-based or organopolysiloxane chains may especially comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide functions especially such as methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.
• the inulin has a degree of polymerization from 2 to about
• the hydrophobic chains contain at least one alkyl carbamate group of formula R-NH-CO- in which R is an alkyl group containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
• the hydrophobic chains are lauryl carbamate groups.
• hydrophobic modified inulins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention
• palmitoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INUK and Lifidrem INUM by the company Engelhard
• inulin lauryl carbamate such as the product sold under the name Inutec SP1 by the company Orafti.
• an inulin grafted with lauryl carbamate is used, which is derived especially from the reaction of lauryl isocyanate with an inulin, in particular derived from chicory.
• examples of these compounds that may especially be mentioned include the product sold under the name Inutec SP1 by the company Orafti.
• the polysaccharide(s) bearing hydrophobic groups may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 50% by weight and better still ranging from 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition preferably comprises at least one aqueous phase and one fatty phase.
• the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least water.
• the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 % to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, better still from 30% to 95% by weight and even better still from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the galenical form of the composition desired.
• the amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent, for instance substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol or polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
• hydrophilic solvent for instance substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol
• polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol or polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
• the proportion of the fatty phase of the emulsion may range for example from 1 % to 80% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight and better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• This indicated amount does not comprise the content of lipophilic surfactants.
• the nature of the fatty phase (or oily phase) of the emulsion is not critical.
• the fatty phase may thus consist of any fatty substance conventionally used in cosmetics or dermatology; it especially comprises at least one oil (fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C).
• oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
• oils of plant origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
• esters and ethers especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R a COOR b and R a OR b in which R a represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R b represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octano
• substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as volatile or nonvolatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam® oil;
• - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;
• alkoxylated and in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-12, ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20; - partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, such as those described in the document JP-A-2-295 912.
• Fluoro oils that may also be mentioned include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec PC1 ® and Flutec PC3 ® by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 , 2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 ® and PF 5060 ® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl ® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name MSX 4518 ® by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052 ® by the company 3M;
• silicone oils for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a substantially linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes
• hydrocarbon-based oil is understood to mean any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
• the other fatty substances which can be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes; or petrolatum paste.
• fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid
• waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch wax
• compositions of the invention may contain one or more adjuvants that are common in cosmetics and dermatology: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and/or thickeners; moisturizers; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; sequestrants; antioxidants; preserving agents; acidifying or basifying agents; fragrances; film- forming agents; dyestuffs (pigments such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide, nacres, soluble dyes), and fillers; and mixtures thereof.
• adjuvants that are common in cosmetics and dermatology: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and/or thickeners; moisturizers; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; sequestrants; antioxidants; preserving agents; acidifying or basifying agents; fragrances; film- forming agents; dyestuffs (pigments such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide, nacres, soluble
• the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.
• the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.1 % to 20%, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.
• Hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned, for example, include carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol products (carbomers) and the Pemulen products (acrylate/C io _ C3o-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/Ci3-i 4 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof.
• carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol products (carbomers) and the Pemulen products (acrylate/C io _ C3o-alkylacrylate copoly
• Lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified clays such as hectorite and derivatives thereof, for instance the products sold under the name Bentone.
• composition according to the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in the field under consideration, such as emulsifiers, lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, UVA and/or UVB screening agents (organic or mineral, soluble or insoluble), pigments, fibres, chelating agents, odour absorbers, dyestuffs and other cosmetic active agents.
• emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• emulsifiers examples include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90® by the company Goldschmidt, or the mixture polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt.
• dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning
• co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto.
• the coemulsifier can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters. Mention may in particular be made, as polyol alkyl esters, of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
• polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt
• sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI
• sorbitan glyceryl isostearate such as the
• O/W emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say derivatives comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl esters of Cs-C2 4 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycol esters of Cs-C2 4 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol esters of Cs-C2 4 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of Cs-C2 4 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
• emulsifiers of nonionic surfactants and in particular esters of polyols and
• glyceryl ester of fatty acid of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
• polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.
• Use may also be made of mixtures of these surfactants, for instance the product comprising glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product comprising glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
• CTFA name glyceryl stearate SE
• fatty alcohol ethers for example, of polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol).
• ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those with the CTFA name Ceteareth-20 or Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
• lipoamino acids and their salts such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamates, for instance, monosodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-1 1 PF, and disodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-21 P, by the company Ajinomoto.
• active agents include moisturizing agents, such as protein hydrolysates and polyols, for instance glycerol, glycols, for instance polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; anti-inflammatory agents; oligomeric proanthocyannidols; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; a-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeasts, of bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents, such as 2,4,
• compositions according to the invention may be in the form of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of milk type for example, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or conversely (W/O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type, or wax/aqueous phase dispersions.
• O/W aqueous phase
• W/O aqueous phase
• W/O aqueous phase
• suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type or alternatively multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type, or wax/aqueous
• the composition is in the form of an O/W emulsion.
• compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a mousse.
• the composition preferably exhibits a skin-friendly pH which generally ranges from 3 to 8 and preferably from 4.5 to 7.
• phase B adds phase A with stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• phase C at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase.
• the mixtures (A+B) and C are homogeneous, form the emulsion in a conventional manner by adding C to (A+B) with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Homogenize until a smooth gel is obtained.
• compositions For each of the compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.
• the cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products.
• the sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are conditioned in opaque jars or pump-dispenser bottles depending on the viscosity of the products. Within the same session, the samples are presented in random order to each panellist. 15 experts evaluated the glidance in the following manner: on a hand predeaned with water and liquid soap and wiped dry with a tissue, 0.05 ml of product is applied to the top half of the hand (five cycles with the index and middle fingers). The product is evaluated during the five passes, and 2 minutes after application.
• the descriptors are evaluated on a scale at five levels: None, Sparingly, Moderately, Quite, Very.
• glidance is defined as being the ease of application of the product, its ability to cover a defined area and the capacity of the product not to drag on the skin during application.
• formulation according to the invention is easier to apply and is much less tacky than formulation A.
• phase B adds phase B to phase A with stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• phase C at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase.
• the mixtures (A+B) and C are homogeneous, form the emulsion in a conventional manner by adding C to (A+B) with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Homogenize until a smooth gel is obtained and finally, at room temperature, add phase D.
• compositions For each of the compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.
• the cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products.
• the sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are conditioned in opaque jars or pump-dispenser bottles depending on the viscosity of the products.
• the samples are presented in random order to each panellist.
• 15 experts evaluated the glidance in the following manner: on a hand precleaned with water and liquid soap and wiped dry with a tissue, 0.05 ml of product is applied to the top half of the hand (five cycles with the index and middle fingers). The product is evaluated during the five passes, and 2 minutes after application.
• the descriptors are evaluated on a scale at five levels: None, Sparingly, Moderately, Quite, Very.
• glidance is defined as being the ease of application of the product, its ability to cover a defined area and the capacity of the product not to drag on the skin during application.
• formulation D according to the invention is easier to apply and is much less tacky and more gentle than formulation C after penetration.

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• 2012
  • 2012-04-26 FR FR1253863A patent/FR2989885A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
• 2013
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