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WO2023004674A1 - Composition pour le soin de la peau - Google Patents

Composition pour le soin de la peau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023004674A1
WO2023004674A1 PCT/CN2021/109215 CN2021109215W WO2023004674A1 WO 2023004674 A1 WO2023004674 A1 WO 2023004674A1 CN 2021109215 W CN2021109215 W CN 2021109215W WO 2023004674 A1 WO2023004674 A1 WO 2023004674A1
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Prior art keywords
composition according
oil
weight
anyone
composition
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PCT/CN2021/109215
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Inventor
Xiaomeng Wu
Xiaomin WENG
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority to CN202180101080.8A priority Critical patent/CN117813078A/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2021/109215 priority patent/WO2023004674A1/fr
Priority to EP21951282.9A priority patent/EP4376803A4/fr
Priority to FR2108972A priority patent/FR3125713B1/fr
Publication of WO2023004674A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023004674A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin material, especially for the skin. Further, the present invention relates to use of same, especially as an emulsion for caring for sensitive skin.
  • emulsion For efficient delivery, various forms of products are utilized. Amongst others, emulsion is interested.
  • US 2014/0100276 discloses an emulsion composition which allows water to remain in the skin for a long period of time, wherein the emulsion presents a lamellar structure, which is, in particular in form of ⁇ -gel. Thanks to the lamellar structure, i.e., repeating bilayer structures, the cosmetic compositions are capable of providing to the skin a good retention of water, and therefore a long-lasting moistness.
  • Various types of surfactants were used for stabilizing the ⁇ -gel structure and providing to the skin a water retention effect.
  • a specific composition comprising specifically selected saccharide, emulsifier and a wax can form a liquid crystal emulsion, which is particularly useful for delivering actives to a sensitive skin.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises the components of:
  • One subject of the invention is thus to provide a liquid crystal emulsion formed from the composition according to the present invention, e.g., by adding a solvent.
  • composition according to the present invention for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin.
  • This use may manifest itself as a process for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin, comprising the steps of compounding the composition at a predetermined weight ratio, and then applying to said keratin materials the thus obtained mixture.
  • Fig. 1 shows the results according to Example 2.
  • Fig. 2 shows the results according to Example 3.
  • the “keratin material” is the skin.
  • skin we intend all the body skin.
  • the keratin material may be the face or the neck.
  • natural polysaccharide means a polysaccharide obtainable from nature.
  • natural polysaccharide is intended to also encompass "polysaccharide of natural origin” , which denotes a polysaccharide obtained by modification of a polysaccharide obtainable from nature.
  • natural polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the present invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.
  • they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.
  • the polysaccharides may be chosen from ones produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arables, galactomannans, glucomannans, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans, gum arables, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopoly saccharide gums of microbial origin, in
  • polysaccharides may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfatation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications.
  • the derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • the polysaccharides may be chosen from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, e.g., scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
  • these polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the present invention may be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, from algae or from higher plants, and are detailed below.
  • Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced at the industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of ⁇ (1, 4) -linked ⁇ -D-glucoses, similar to cellulose. One glucose molecule in two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an ⁇ -D-mannose, a ⁇ -D-glucuronic acid and a terminal ⁇ -D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30%of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6.
  • the charged pyruvic acids and glucuronic acids are ionizable, and are thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1) .
  • the content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups may be neutralized in commercial products with Na + , K + or Ca 2+ ions (Satia company, 1986) .
  • the neutralized form may be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.
  • Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa. s for an aqueous composition containing 1%of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm) .
  • Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane TM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries) , under the name Novaxan TM by the company ADM, and under the names and by the company CP-Kelco.
  • Pullulan is a polysaccharide consisting of maltotriose units, known under the name ⁇ (1, 4) - ⁇ (1, 6) -glucan. Three glucose units in maltotriose are connected via an ⁇ (1, 4) glycoside bond, whereas the consecutive maltotriose units are connected to each other via an ⁇ (1, 6) glycoside bond.
  • Pullulan is produced, for example, under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the group Hayashibara in Japan.
  • Dextran is a neutral polysaccharide not bearing any charged groups, which is biologically inert, prepared by fermentation of beet sugar containing solely hydroxyl groups. It is possible to obtain dextran fractions of different molecular weights from native dextran by hydrolysis and purification. Dextran may in particular be in the form of dextran sulfate.
  • Dextran is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, or under the name Dextran 40 Powder or Dextran 70 Powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co.
  • Dextran sulfate is sold by the company PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.
  • Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer of high molecular weight produced by bacterial fermentation, consisting of octasaccharide repeating units (repetition of 8 sugars) .
  • Succinoglycans are sold, for example, under the name Rheozan by the company Rhodia.
  • Scleroglucan is a nonionic branched homopolysaccharide consisting of ⁇ -D-glucan units.
  • the molecules consist of a linear main chain formed from D-glucose units linked via ⁇ (1, 3) bonds and of which one in three is linked to a side D-glucose unit via a ⁇ (1, 6) bond.
  • Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigel by the company Alban Miiller, or under the name Actigum TM CS by the company Cargill.
  • Furcellaran is obtained commercially from red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata. Furcellaran is produced, for example, by the company Est-Agar.
  • This category of polysaccharides may be divided into homogeneous polysaccharides (only one saccharide species) and heterogeneous polysaccharides composed of several types of saccharides.
  • the polysaccharide according to the present invention may be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructosans.
  • the polysaccharide according to the present invention may also be a cellulose or a derivative thereof, especially cellulose ethers or esters (e.g. methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose) .
  • cellulose ethers or esters e.g. methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose
  • the present invention may also contain a cellulose-based associative polymer.
  • cellulose-based compound means any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure linear sequences of anhydroglucopyranose residues (AGU) linked together via ⁇ (1, 4) bonds.
  • the repeating unit is the cellobiose dimer.
  • the AGUs are in chair conformation and bear 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6) .
  • the polymers thus formed combine together via intermolecular bonds of hydrogen bond type, thus giving the cellulose a fibrillar structure (about 1500 molecules per fibre) .
  • the degree of polymerization differs enormously depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value may range from a few hundred to several tens of thousands.
  • the hydroxyl groups of cellulose may react partially or totally with various chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having intrinsic properties.
  • the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.
  • nonionic cellulose ethers mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; and mixed hydroxyalkylalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxy-ethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxy ethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
  • alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses
  • hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses
  • mixed hydroxyalkylalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxy-ethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxy ethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
  • anionic cellulose ethers mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and salts thereof.
  • cationic cellulose ethers mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses.
  • the quaternizing agent may in particular be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine.
  • a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine.
  • Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxy ethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.
  • the quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:
  • - quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,
  • - quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.
  • the alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
  • Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C 8-30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C 12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C 18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C 12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C 18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
  • - celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, especially of C 8-22 , arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C 16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and
  • polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company Amerchol.
  • cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc. ) , organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc. ) , and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates.
  • cellulose ester ethers mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
  • the cellulose-based compounds of the present invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.
  • the celluloses and derivatives are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco) , under the name Akucell AF(sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Akzo Nobel, under the name Methocel TM (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel TM (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, and under the names (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , (methylcellulose) , Blanose TM (carboxymethylcellulose) , (methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose) , (hydroxypropylcellulose) , (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and CS (hydroxy ethylcellulose) by the company Hercules Aqualon.
  • the polysaccharide according to the present invention may especially be a fructosan chosen from inulin and derivatives thereof (especially dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins) .
  • Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally combined with several saccharide residues other than fructose.
  • Fructans may be linear or branched.
  • Fructans may be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or alternatively products whose chain length has been modified (increased or decreased) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular enzymatic.
  • Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60.
  • the first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are for the most part linked via ⁇ (2, 1) bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins.
  • the second group also corresponds to linear fructoses, but the fructose units are essentially linked via ⁇ (2, 6) bonds. These products are levans.
  • the third group corresponds to mixed fructans, i.e. containing ⁇ (2, 6) and ⁇ (2, 1) sequences. These are essentially branched fructans, such as graminans.
  • the preferred fructans in the compositions according to the present invention are inulins.
  • Inulin may be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke, preferably from chicory.
  • the polysaccharide especially the inulin, has a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one fructose unit.
  • the inulin used for the present invention is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Beneo TM inulin by the company Orafti, and under the name by the company Sensus.
  • the polysaccharides that may be used according to the present invention may be gums, for instance cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic.
  • Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts.
  • the monomer elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.
  • Galactomannans guar, locust bean, fenugreek, tara gum
  • derivatives guar phosphate, hydroxypropyl guar, etc.
  • Galactomannans are nonionic polyosides extracted from the endosperm of leguminous seeds, of which they constitute the storage carbohydrate.
  • Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of ⁇ (1, 4) -linked D-mannopyranose units, bearing side branches consisting of a single D-galactopyranose unit ⁇ (1, 6) -linked to the main chain.
  • the various galactomannans differ, firstly, by the proportion of ⁇ -D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and secondly, by significant differences in terms of distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain.
  • the mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio is about 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum.
  • Guar gum is characterized by a mannose/galactose ratio of the order of 2/1.
  • the galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.
  • guar gums that may be used according to the present invention may be nonionic, cationic or anionic. According to the present invention, use may be made of chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums.
  • the unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the names Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Guar by the company Danisco, under the name Viscogum TM by the company Cargill, and under the name guar gum by the company Aqualon.
  • hydrolysed nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the present invention are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name by the company Danisco.
  • modified nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the present invention are preferably modified with C 1-6 hydroxyalkyl groups, among which mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Rhodia or under the name HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aqualon.
  • the cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 1.5 meq. /g, more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq. /g.
  • the charge density may be determined by the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.
  • cationic galactomannan gum means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.
  • the preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.
  • the cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 ⁇ 10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3 ⁇ 10 6 approximately.
  • the cationic galactomannan gums that may be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising tri (C 1-4 ) alkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2%to 30%by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • trialkylammonium groups mention may be made most particularly of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.
  • these groups represent from 5%to 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.
  • the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, i.e. a guar gum modified, for example, with 2, 3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
  • galactomannan gums in particular guar gums modified with cationic groups are products already known per se and are, for example, described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307.
  • Such products are moreover sold especially under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar CI 62 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.
  • the anionic guar gums that may be used according to the present invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfenic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acid.
  • the anionic group is preferably a carboxylic acid group.
  • the anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, especially a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.
  • anionic guar gums that may be used according to the present invention are preferentially carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar) .
  • Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the locust bean tree Ceratonia siliqua) .
  • the unmodified locust bean gum that may be used in the present invention is sold, for example, under the name Viscogum TM by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin and under the name LBG by the company Danisco.
  • the chemically modified locust bean gums that may be used in the present invention may be represented, for example, by the cationic locust beans sold under the name Catinal CLB (locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the company Toho.
  • Catinal CLB locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
  • the tara gum that may be used in the context of the present invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin.
  • chitin poly-N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, ⁇ (1, 4) -2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose
  • chitosan and derivatives chitosan- ⁇ -glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitin, etc.
  • glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and preferably hyaluronic acid
  • xylans or arabinoxylans
  • Arabinoxylans are polymers of xylose and arabinose, all grouped under the name pentosans.
  • Xylans consist of a main chain of ⁇ (1, 4) -linked D-xylose units and on which are found three substituents (Rouau&Thibault, 1987) : acid units, ⁇ -L-arabinofuranose units, side chains which may contain arabinose, xylose, galactose and glucuronic acid.
  • Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae families. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by ⁇ (1, 3) and ⁇ (1, 4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the ⁇ -D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in 3, 6-anhydro form.
  • carrageenans which bear one sulfate-ester group
  • iota-carrageenans which bear two sulfate-ester groups
  • lambda-carrageenans which bear three sulfate-ester groups.
  • Carrageenans are composed essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and/or calcium salts of polysaccharide sulfate esters.
  • Carrageenans are sold especially by the company SEPPIC under the name by the company Gelymar under the names and by the company Cargill, under the names Satiagel TM and Satiagum TM , and by the company CP-Kelco under the names and
  • Agars are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (rhodophyceae) . They are formed from a polymer group whose base backbone is a ⁇ (1, 3) D-galactopyranose and ⁇ (1, 4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in variable percentage, depending on the species of algae and the harvest season.
  • Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular mass, between 40000 and 300000 g. mol -1 . It is obtained by manufacturing algal extraction liquors, generally by autoclaving, and by treating these liquors which comprise about 2%of agar-agar, so as to extract the latter.
  • Agar is produced, for example, by the group B&V Agar Producers under the names Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar) , and Puragar by the company Setexam.
  • Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolyoside based on oligoside units composed of 4 saccharides (tetra-oside) .
  • D-Glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in 2: 1: 1 proportions are present in gellan gum in the form of monomer elements.
  • the preferred one has a molecular weight of 5,000-500,000, preferably 10,000-200,000, or preferably 30,000-100,000.
  • the natural saccharide may be present in an amount ranging for example from 0.1 to 10%by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5%by weight and more preferably from 0.2 to 1%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Component B) emulsifier
  • composition according to the present invention can preferably in a form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.
  • the composition preferably comprises an emulsifier selected from amphoteric or anionic surfactant.
  • amphoteric surfactant is intended to encompass those surfactants conventionally called as both “amphoteric surfactant” and “zwitterionic surfactant” .
  • amphoteric surfactants may for example be selected from (C8-C20) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines (also called sultaines) , (C8-C20) alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylsulfobetaines, amino acids such as glycine, (C8-C20) alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, (C8-C20) alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C20) alkylamphodiacetates, lecithins, salts thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • (C8-C20) alkylbetaines mention may notably be made of cocobetain like the product marketed under the name of DEHYTON by Cognis, laurylbetain like the product marketed under the name of GENAGEN by Clariant, oxyethylene laurylbetain (10 EO) , like the product marketed under the name of LAURYLETHER (10 EO) by Shin Nihon Portugal, oxyethylene stearylbetain (10 EO) like the product marketed under the name of STEARYLETHER (10 EO) by Shin Nihon Portugal.
  • (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines mention may for example be made of cocamidopropyl betaine like the products marketed under the name of LEBON 2000 by Sanyo, under the name of EMPIGEN by Albright&Wilson, under the names of Tego Betain F 50 and CK D by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, or further those marketed as a mixture with glyceryl laurate like the commercial references Tego Betain HS or Antil HS 60 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, lauramidopropyl betaine like the product marketed under the name of REWOTERIC by Witco.
  • (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines are preferably chosen among (C8-C20) alkylamidopropylbetaines.
  • (C8-C20) alkylsulfobetaines alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6) hydroxyl sulfobetaines such as cocoyl-amidopropylhydroxy-sulfobetaine such as the one marketed under the name of CROSULTAIN by Croda.
  • alkyl polyaminocarboxylates As (C8-C20) alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APAC) , mention may be made of sodium cocoylpolyamino-carboxylate, such as the one marketed under the name of AMPHOLAK 7 and AMPHOLAK 7 by AkzoNobel, sodium stearyl-polyamidocarboxylate such as the one marketed under the name of AMPHOLAK 7 TX/C by AkzoNobel, sodium carboxymethyloleyl-polypropylamine, such as the one marketed under the name of AMPHOLAK by AkzoNobel.
  • APAC alkyl polyaminocarboxylates
  • C8-C20 alkyldiamphoacetates mention may for example be made of N-di-sodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) like the product marketed under the name of MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE by Rhodia Chimie, and N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate) like the one sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Rewoteric AM C.
  • CFA name disodium cocamphodiacetate
  • C8-C20 alkylamphodiacetates mention may be made of disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoampho-idipropionic acid. Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name C2M Concentrate.
  • lecithins phospholipids and lysophospholipids.
  • lecithins such as the product marketed by the NIKKOL group (Lecinol Series) or further lecithins marketed by CARGIL/LUCAS MEYER (the family of EMULMETIKS of EMULFLUIDS) .
  • a derivative of lecithin can be preferably used.
  • hydrogenated lecithin can be used advantageously.
  • anionic surfactant is understood to mean an amphiphilic compound with a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic part wherein the hydrophilic part carries as ionic or ionisable group only anionic group with a cationic counterion which is generally metallic (alkali metal, such as Na or K) or ammonium, capable of dissociating to give anions in aqueous solution.
  • the cationic counter being usually selected from alkali metal such as sodium, or alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, or organic cationic counter anion such as ammonium salts, amine salts, or aminoalcohol salts.
  • anionic surfactants of surfactants comprising carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactylate or taurate anionic groups, salts of fatty acids, salts of galactosiduronic acids, salts of ether carboxylic acids surfactants and their mixtures.
  • anionic surfactant according to the invention is chosen from:
  • acyl isethionates for example sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isthionate; mentiones may be made of the sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate which is sold under the trade name LQ-CLR-SB by the company Innospec Active Chemicals;
  • alkyl or acyl radicals of these various anionic surfactants preferably comprise from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated anionic surfactants preferably comprise from 1 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, more preferably from 1 to 4 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups.
  • the anionic surfactant (s) may comprise at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof, including, for example, at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • the anionic surfactant (s) comprising at least one sulfonate function are chosen from (C16-C22) alkylsulfonates, (C16-C22) alkylamidesulfonates, (C16-C22) alkylarylsulfonates, (C16-C22) alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyl (C16-C22) -N- (C1-C6) alkyltaurates, (C16-C22) acylisethionates, (C16-C22) alkylsulfolaurates, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant (s) comprising at least one sulfonate function are chosen from:
  • acylisethionates the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or cyclic group comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, the alkyl group is a methyl,
  • the composition may be free of any sulfate to be used as the anionic surfactant.
  • the anionic surfactant may be a taurate, e.g., sodium methyl stearoyl taurate.
  • N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates can be also preferred, for which mention may be made of sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate sold under the name Nikkol SMT by the company Nikko.
  • the acyl glutamate (s) are chosen from acyl glutamates in which the acyl group comprises from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • acyl glutamates examples include palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, notably the alkali metal salts such as the Na, Li or K and preferably Na or K salts, the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the Mg salts or the ammonium salts of said acids.
  • Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds having the INCI name sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.
  • acylglutamic acid salts mention may also be made of sodium stearoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by the company Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated stearoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by the company Ajinomoto.
  • an amphoteric surfactant and an anionic surfactant may be particularly advantageous.
  • the concurrent use thereof may be specially beneficial for the stability, as well as the heat-resistance, of the composition formulated.
  • the amphoteric surfactant and the anionic surfactant can be used at a ratio by weight of 2: 8 to 8: 2, preferably 4: 6 to 6: 4.
  • the emulsifier may be present in an amount ranging for example from 0.1 to 3%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3%by weight and more preferably from 0.2 to 1%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one solvent.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be provided in a form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • the component A) i.e., the natural polysaccharide
  • the component B) i.e., the emulsifier
  • the aqueous phase may comprise water and hydrophilic adjuvants (co-solvents, actives and additives) .
  • the water preferably represents at least 50%by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 55%to 95%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 70%to 90%by weight. and preferably ranging from 50%to 90%by weight.
  • the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizines water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water compriseing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.
  • the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25°C) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols notably having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvent miscible with water at room temperature 25°C
  • monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such
  • the water-miscible polyol at room temperature is present in a content ranging from 1%to 15%by weight, and preferably ranging from 2%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least on preservative.
  • the preservative can be present in the aqueous phase.
  • the preservative useful according to the present invention can be any one conventionally used for cosmetics, in particular for masks.
  • preservatives can be used according to the present invention comprise methylchloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, derivatives of hydantoin, such as DMDMH, parahydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, amino-acid based preservative, sorbitan octanate, glycerol caprylate and the like.
  • hydantoin such as DMDMH, parahydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, amino-acid based preservative, sorbitan octanate, glycerol caprylate and the like.
  • the content of the preservative is 0.01-5%, preferably 0.1%-3%, preferably 0.3%-1%, based on the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can comprise a wax as component C) .
  • the wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C) , with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 40°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the wax in the composition according to the present invention preferably has a regular long carbon chain structure, e.g., in particular C16-C30 fatty alcohol.
  • the useful C16-C30 fatty alcohol can be saturated fatty alcohol having a hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • saturated fatty alcohol means any alcohol comprising a linear saturated (containing no covalent double or triple bonds) hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.
  • hydrocarbon-based chain means an organic group consisting essentially of, or even consisting of, hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
  • the C16-C30 fatty alcohol is chosen from C16-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably from C16-C18 fatty alcohols.
  • the saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol (s) that are of use in the context of the present invention are notably chosen from cetyl alcohol or hexadecanol (C 16 ) , stearyl alcohol or octadecanol (C 18 ) , or behenyl alcohol (C 22 ) which are solid at room temperature and advantageously bear a chain-end-OH group.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of C 16 and C 18 fatty alcohols; in particular, the composition comprises cetylstearyl alcohol.
  • the mixture of C 16 and C 18 fatty alcohols is used in a C 16 /C 18 mass ratio ranging from 20/80 to 80/20 and advantageously in a C 16 /C 18 mass ratio equal to 50/50.
  • the wax may be present in an amount ranging for example from 0.1 to 10%by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5%by weight and more preferably from 1 to 3%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsifier and wax are used at a ratio by weight ranging from 1/2 to 1/15, preferably 1/3 to 1/10, or alternatively 1/3 to 1/5.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be provided in a form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase.
  • the component C) i.e., the wax, is preferably present in the oil phase.
  • the composition comprises at least one oil in the oil phase.
  • oil refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm 2 /min, inclusive.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • oils that are suitable for the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.
  • silicon oil refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
  • fluorine oil refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • composition of the present invention comprises hydrocarbon oil (s) .
  • the volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also called isoparaffins or isoalkanes) , such as isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names or
  • linear C 9 -C 17 alkanes such as dodecane (C 12 ) and tetradecane (C 14 ) , sold respectively under the names 12-97 and 14-97 (Sasol)
  • alkanes obtained according to the method described in the international application WO 2007/068371 A1 such as the undecane (C 11 ) and tridecane (C 13 ) mixture sold under the name UT (Cognis) .
  • the non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.
  • oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, for instance phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203) , diesters such as diisopropyl sebacate, triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C 4 to C 36 , and in particular from C 18 to C 36 , it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil,
  • John's Wort oil monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, nut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, winter squash oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soya oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the STEARINERIES DUBOIS company or those sold under the names MIGLYOL and by the DYNAMIT NOBEL company,
  • oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R 1 or R 2 is greater than or equal to 10.
  • the esters may in particular be selected from esters of fatty acid and of alcohol, for instance: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactacte, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhe
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,
  • higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and,
  • R 1 and R 2 each represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • R 1 and R 2 which are identical, represent a linear hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • dialkyl carbonate is dicaprylyl carbonate.
  • the carbonate is caprylyl carbonate.
  • the two alkyl chains possibly being identical such as the dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL by COGNIS.
  • oils of higher molar mass having in particular a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 650 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 750 to approximately 7500 g/mol, and more particularly ranging from approximately 1000 to approximately 5000 g/mol.
  • oils of higher molar mass that can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the oils selected from:
  • esters of C 24 -C 28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols
  • the composition of the present invention comprises, as oil, dicaprylyl carbonate and/or octyldodecanol.
  • composition of the present invention is free of silicone oil.
  • an “oil” is distinguished from a “wax” .
  • a wax is distinguished from a “wax” .
  • the at least one oil (a) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 15%by weight, preferably ranging from 1%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose the method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the compositions or the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be used for caring for keratin material, e.g., skin, especially for sensitive skin.
  • This use may manifest itself as a process for caring for keratin material, e.g., skin, especially sensitive skin, comprising the steps of compounding the composition, and then applying to said skin the thus obtained composition.
  • compositions/formulas described below are expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
  • inventive compositions A1 to A3, and comparative compositions B1 to B3 were prepared.
  • Protocol of preparation the compositions in table 1 comprises:
  • compositions A1 to A3, and comparative compositions B1 to B3 were applied on Epi-skin model, each at an amount of 5g. Then irritants (lactic acid, conventionally used as irritant in the art) were added into the model. For comparison, irritant alone, and a simple combination of water and irritant at a weight ratio of 1: 9, were also applied, each at an amount of 1g.
  • irritants lactic acid, conventionally used as irritant in the art
  • compositions A1 to A3 While the sample labeled as “CE. 1” to “CE. 3” in the drawing denoted compositions B1 to B3.
  • compositions A1, A2 and A3 showed good cell viability in Epi-skin model (all above 50%)
  • compositions B1, B2 and B3 showed poor performance in cell viability in Epi-skin model.
  • composition A2 both liquid crystal and nature polysaccharide can be observed, while in composition B2, only liquid crystal structure was found. No net structure was observed in composition B2.

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Abstract

Une composition comprend A) un polysaccharide naturel ayant un poids moléculaire de 50 000 à 500 000 ; B) un émulsifiant choisi parmi un tensioactif amphotère ou anionique ; et C) une cire. La composition peut être utilisée pour le soin des matières kératiniques, par exemple pour la peau, en particulier pour une peau sensible.
PCT/CN2021/109215 2021-07-29 2021-07-29 Composition pour le soin de la peau Ceased WO2023004674A1 (fr)

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EP21951282.9A EP4376803A4 (fr) 2021-07-29 2021-07-29 Composition pour le soin de la peau
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WO2025059871A1 (fr) * 2023-09-19 2025-03-27 L'oreal Compositions pour le soin de la peau

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EP4376803A4 (fr) 2025-04-30
FR3125713A1 (fr) 2023-02-03
FR3125713B1 (fr) 2024-08-02
CN117813078A (zh) 2024-04-02

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