WO2021123669A1 - Liquid cosmetic composition with gloss and lasting properties - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprising at least: - a first compartment containing a liquid phase A comprising a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I), wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents an -OSiMe3 group, y ranges from 1 to 1000, z ranges from 1 to 1000; and - a second compartment containing a liquid phase B comprising: a C8-C30 fatty alcohol and a branched dextrin ester.

Description

Liquid cosmetic composition with shine and hold properties

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the cosmetics field and in particular to a liquid cosmetic composition having properties of gloss and of gloss retention over time.

STATE OF THE ART

Makeup products for the lips, in liquid, semi-fluid or solid (stick) form, having color retention properties over time are known from the prior art. Shiny makeup products for the lips (gloss) are also known, but it is difficult to combine the properties of shine and hold of the shine over time, a fortiori in one and the same composition.

“Double action” lip makeup products are in fact known with the application of a first composition to provide the color and the application of a second composition for the deposition of a shiny film. However, there is therefore still a need to develop compositions for a simple application ('one step') making it possible to provide both improved shine properties, and properties of color fastness and shine resistance in the body. time, while remaining comfortable.

The Applicant has rightly demonstrated that the combined use of two immiscible oils, of a particular resin and of particular polymers for the hold, made it possible to meet this need. The present invention thus makes it possible to obtain an immediate shine that is greater than or equal to that of lip varnishes available on the market, with improved shine hold over time. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An aim of the invention is to provide a liquid composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular a make-up composition for the lips in a single step, exhibiting improved shine and gloss retention properties.

By “liquid” is meant a fluid composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid or semi-solid compositions. According to one embodiment, the composition cosmetic according to the invention is a liquid lipstick, also called lip lacquer, or a gloss.

The composition of the invention being inhomogeneous or bi (multi) -phasic due to the presence of two immiscible oils, it can be implemented according to two alternative embodiments:

A first embodiment consisting of a packaging device with several compartments allowing the immiscible oily phases, present in separate compartments, to be brought into contact only when the composition is dispensed; and a second method consisting of a composition of non-homogeneous or two-phase appearance, when it is in the form of a bulk or in its packaging unit, to be mixed extemporaneously by mechanical action for re-homogenization before use.

More specifically, it will be a makeup composition for the lips for application in a single step ("one step").

We will thus speak of a 'packaged' composition to describe the 'non-homogeneous or multi-phase' composition (e.g. two-phase) in bulk form or in its packaging unit, and of a composition 'to be applied to keratin materials' to describe the composition. “homogeneous” composition at the outlet of the dispensing device or as rehomogenized after extemporaneous mixing by mechanical action of the non-homogeneous composition.

By "homogeneous" is meant that the composition to be applied to keratin materials is visually uniform in appearance, that is to say a composition in which each of the phases cannot be individualized with the naked eye.

On the contrary, by 'non-homogeneous' is meant that the composition, as prepared and packaged, does not have the same characteristics and / or the same properties in all its parts, that it has at least two visually distinct phases, either within a device with several compartments, or within the same composition in which each of the phases can be individualized with the naked eye. In the rest of the description of the composition or system (for the device containing the two separate phases in separate compartments), we will speak without distinction as “non-homogeneous” or “multi-phasic” or “biphasic” or comprising at least two visually distinct phases. A non-homogeneous composition according to the invention has macroscopically a partial or total phase shift in the form of several globules, clusters or strata, as opposed to a homogeneous or uniform composition.

We will preferably speak of a composition comprising at least two visually distinct phases. The composition according to the invention thus comprises at least two phases which are visually distinct from one another, and preferably two phases which are visually distinct from one another.

By “two visually distinct phases” according to the present application, it is meant that the phases can be distinguished from one another with the naked eye by a human being, unlike phases forming emulsions or dispersions of homogeneous particles. . Preferably, one of the phases is not in the form of globules. More preferably, none of the phases is in the form of globules. Such multiphase or biphasic compositions and the processes for preparing such compositions are described in particular in application WO2006093742.

To this end, it is proposed, according to a first aspect of the invention, a device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprising at least

- a first compartment containing a liquid phase A comprising a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)

dans laquelle [Chem 1]

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000,

- a second compartment containing a liquid phase B comprising: a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and a branched ester of dextrin.

Phases A and B are mixed at the outlet of the dispensing device, forming a homogeneous composition to be applied to keratin materials.

dans laquelle It also relates to a liquid cosmetic composition of non-homogeneous or two-phase appearance comprising a) a first phase A ′ comprising a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) [Chem 1].

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000, b) a second phase B', visually distinct from the first phase A ', and comprising a C8-C30 fatty alcohol incompatible with the phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) of phase A ', and a branched ester of dextrin.

The non-homogeneous or two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended to be mixed extemporaneously by mechanical action in order to be re-homogenized before application to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition such as than dispensed by the cosmetic device defined in the invention, or of a composition of non-homogeneous or two-phase appearance as defined in the invention, after mixing thereof by a mechanical action for re-homogenization before application. The liquid cosmetic composition according to the invention, resulting from the mixing at the outlet of the device for distributing the two phases, or from the mixing by mechanical action for rehomogenization of the non-homogeneous or two-phase liquid composition, is in the form of a homogeneous composition and comprises at least: a) a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)

dans laquelle Me est méthyle et Ph est phényle, OR' représente un groupe - OSiMe3 y varie entre 1 et 1000, et z varie entre 1 et 1000, b) un alcool gras en C8-C30, et c) un ester ramifié de dextrine. [Chem 1]

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000, b) a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and c) a branched ester of dextrin .

In particular, the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition and preferably a makeup composition for the lips.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION A first object of the invention relates to a device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprising at least:

- a first compartment containing a liquid phase A comprising a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)

dans laquelle [Chem 1]

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR ’represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000,

- a second compartment containing a liquid phase B comprising: a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and a branched ester of dextrin.

Phases A and B are mixed at the outlet of the dispensing device, forming a homogeneous composition, intended to be applied to keratin materials.

The C8-C30 fatty alcohol (hydrocarbon oil) and the branched dextrin ester allow the color to adhere to keratin materials. Phenylated silicone oil, incompatible with C8-C30 fatty alcohol, forms an ultra-shiny transparent film on the surface.

Advantageously, the composition will also comprise a gelling and / or structuring agent, in particular pasty fatty substances, waxes or their mixture, which make it possible to set and stabilize the system without disturbing the result of hold and shine. To improve comfort on application and over time, oils and semi-solid fatty substances can advantageously be added. In order to improve the holding performance and / or to reduce the tacky sensation liable to appear progressively due to the presence of the branched ester and possible other holding polymers, pulverulent fillers can advantageously be added. To increase the glide on application and improve the sensoriality of the deposited film, oils which are eliminated on application and the formation of the film can also be added. To increase the gloss and color holding performance (in other words, non-transfer properties), polymers are advantageously added.

In the remainder of the description, in particular for the description of the constituent ingredients of the phases and compositions of the invention, we will speak of "composition of the invention", indifferently for the multiphase system packaged in the packaging and distribution device; for the composition dispensed by said packaging and dispensing device according to the invention; for the composition of non-homogeneous or two-phase appearance; and for the composition resulting from the mixture by mechanical action before application to keratin materials.

The composition of ingredients, of the constituent phases of the cosmetic composition of the invention is described below. The% by weight are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition. Ingredients constituting the phases and compositions of the invention

The fatty phase of the composition of the invention therefore comprises at least two oily phases, due to the presence of immiscible oils.

The term “oily phase” is understood to mean an oil or a mixture of oils.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “oil” is intended to mean a fatty substance which is insoluble in water and which is liquid at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

An oily phase according to the invention can comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

The term “silicone oil” is understood to mean, according to the invention, an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant according to the invention an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The composition of the invention will especially comprise at least one phenyl silicone oil and one hydrocarbon oil. Phenylated silicone oil (silicone oil)

The composition of the invention comprises at least one phenyl silicone oil. The term “phenylated silicone oil” according to the invention means an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group. The phenylated silicone oil according to the invention is in particular chosen from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxilaphenyls and trimethylsiloxysilates, their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)

dans laquelle [Chem 1]

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, y varies between 1 and 1000. For example, Belsils PDM20, PDM100 and PDM1000 from Wacker can be used and in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, in particular sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker. (MW = 9000g / mol).

The phenylated silicone oil is present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, in particular from 15 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (I), preferably an oil of the INCI name trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone. The composition can also comprise a second phenylated silicone oil distinct from the first and having a formula (II)

dans laquelle les groupements R représentent indépendamment les uns des autres un méthyle ou un phényle, au moins trois d’entre eux, voire au moins quatre d’entre eux, voire au moins cinq d’entre eux étant un phényle. [Chem 2]

in which the groups R represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, at least three of them, or even at least four of them, or even at least five of them being a phenyl.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as second phenylated silicone oil, a compound of formula (III)

dans laquelle Me représente un méthyle et Ph représente un phényle, autrement nommée triméthyl pentaphényl trisiloxane. [Chem 3]

in which Me represents a methyl and Ph represents a phenyl, otherwise called trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane.

Such a phenylated silicone is in particular manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or also Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1, 3,5-trimethyl 1, 1, 3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name : trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. According to a preferred embodiment, the reference PH-1555 HRI (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) will be used.

According to a particular embodiment, the second phenylated silicone oil distinct from the first phenylated silicone oil described above is present in a content ranging from 2 to 12% by weight, in particular from 4 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the first and second silicone phenylated oil are present in the composition in a weight ratio (% 1 silicone oil ^era phenylated /% 2 ^nd phenyl silicone oil) from 2 to 6, in particular 3 to 5. C8-C30 fatty alcohols (hydrocarbon oil)

The compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one fatty alcohol. The fatty alcohols can be represented by the formula ROH, R representing a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, the aforementioned R radical is a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30, in particular from 10 to 24, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or even natural origin. Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as, for example, ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols.

According to a particular embodiment, the C8-C30 fatty alcohol is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof .

Preferably, octyldodecanol will be used. One can quote in particular the ISOFOL 20 of SASOL.

According to a particular embodiment, the amount of fatty alcohol in the composition according to the invention will range from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the weight total of said composition for a solid formula.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least one first phenylated silicone oil as described above and at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol in a weight ratio (R1 =% phenylated silicone oil /% C8-C30 fatty alcohol) ranging from from 8 to 20, in particular from 10 to 18. he

According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least a first silicone phenylsilicone oil and a second phenyl silicone oil as described above and at least one fatty alcohol C 8 -C 30 in a weight ratio (R2 = (% 1 silicone oil ^era phenylated + % 2 ^{n of} phenylated silicone oil) /% C8-C30 fatty alcohol) ranging from 12 to 25, in particular from 15 to 20.

Branched dextrin ester

The branched dextrin ester according to the invention may comprise an esterified chain or several esterified chains, identical or different. It may for example be a dextrin esterified with several identical or different fatty acids. These dextrin esters can be prepared using conventional esterification methods. For example, the following methods can be implemented:

1) Dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted with one or more branched fatty acid derivatives as well as with, where appropriate, one or more derivatives of other fatty acids, in proportions required to obtain the dextrin ester described above.

2) Dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted in a first step, with one or more branched fatty acid derivatives, then in a second step, with one or more derivatives of a or more of the other fatty acids, in the proportions required to obtain the dextrin ester described above. Usually, halides, acid anhydrides, are used as fatty acid derivatives. More particularly, in either of the above two options, the dextrin is dispersed in a reaction solvent, and a catalyst is added thereto, if necessary. This mixture is reacted by adding the above-mentioned fatty acid derivative (s), preferably halides.

In process 1), these derivatives are mixed and added simultaneously to the reaction mixture, and in process 2) the derivatives are introduced successively. As usual solvent, mention may be made of dimethylformamide, formamide, acetamide, ketones, aromatic compounds such as benzene, toluene, xylene, dioxane, or their mixtures. The suitable catalysts are usually chosen from tertiary amine compounds such as pyridine, picoline. The reaction temperature is generally chosen as a function of the starting derivatives of the fatty acid (s). She is in generally between 0 and 100 ° C. The dextrin esters are then purified in the usual way.

According to a particular embodiment, the branched ester of dextrin is an ester of dextrin, for which the dextrin has an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 150, and for which the fatty acid (s) comprise (s) from 50% to 100% in moles, based on the total amount of fatty acid (s), one or more saturated branched fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50% by moles, based of the total quantity of fatty acid (s), of one or more other fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, unsaturated linear or branched fatty acids, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree of substitution of the dextrin by the fatty acid (s) is from 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

Such dextrin esters are in particular described in European application EP 2537865.

According to a preferred embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the branched ester of dextrin is dextrin isostearate. Among the compounds sold, mention may be made of the dextrin isostearate UNIFILMA HVY sold by the company Chiba Flour Milling Co.

According to one embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, the percentage of branched ester of dextrin is between 10% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 12% and 18% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Fat soluble polymer

The composition of the invention advantageously further comprises a fat-soluble polymer, chosen from the group consisting of:

(i) acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide,

(ii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and

(iii) their mixtures. The fat-soluble polymer can be a polymer intended to provide hold and / or to form a film (so-called “film-forming” polymer).

The term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support. In the text, the word polymer can denote a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term “copolymer” is understood to mean a polymer comprising at least two monomers or two different blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure. The term “fat-soluble film-forming polymer” means a film-forming polymer dissolved in the liquid fatty phase, for example in the phenylated silicone oil according to the invention.

The film-forming polymer can be of natural or synthetic origin. The acrylate polymers used in the present invention act as hold polymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms act as film-forming polymers.

Acrylate polymers The acrylate polymers which can be used in the composition of the invention are advantageously chosen from: silicone acrylate polymers, in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, and in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as, for example, KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as KP- 550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy, and in particular the acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy in dimethicone (such as DM FA-4003 from Dow Corning ^®), acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy in isododecane (for example FA-4004 ID from Dow Corning ^® ), copolymers Acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone methacrylate such as KP-561 P from Shin Etsu); acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms, in particular C10-C30 acrylate polymers of INCI name poly C10- 30 alkyl acrylates, such as that marketed under the name TEGO SP 13-

1 by the company AIR PRODUCTS and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide, in particular copolymers of acrylates and of t-butylacrylamides, such as that marketed under the name ULTRAHOLD 8 or ULTRAHOLD STRONG (INCI: “Acrylates / t- Butylacrylamide copolymer) by the company BASF. According to one particular embodiment, the acrylate and acrylamide copolymer is pre-dispersed in an oil to facilitate its integration into the oily phase of the composition, in particular a hydrogenated polyisobutene. The acrylate polymers used in the composition of the invention are present in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene The copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene which can be used in the composition of the invention comprise an alkene chain of at least 18 carbon atoms, in particular an alkene chain in C18-C30, such as VP / eicosene, VP / triacontanyl, VP / styrene copolymers, etc.

Use will preferably be made of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers comprising a linear C20-C30 alkene chain, such as VP / eicosene sold under the name ANTARON V 220 F (INCI: eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer) by the company ASHLAND, triacontanyl PVP marketed under the name UNIMER U-6 by the company INDUCHEM. The VP and alkene copolymers used in the composition of the invention are present in a content ranging from 8 to 25% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise at least one copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene as described above, in particular a VP / eicosene copolymer marketed under the name ANTARON V 220 F (INCI : eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer) by the company Ashland.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise an acrylate polymer as defined above and a copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene as described above.

According to this particular embodiment, the weight ratio between the acrylate polymer and the copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene (R =% acrylate polymer /% copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene) will range from 1 to 5 , in particular from 2 to 4.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise a liposoluble film-forming polymer chosen from a copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, of preferably chosen from a copolymer of acrylate and of t-butylacrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene, and preferably a mixture thereof.

The total content of liposoluble film-forming polymers in the composition of the invention may range from 8 to 25% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The% of liposoluble film-forming polymer is expressed in% by weight of active material (a.i.) relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least the following ingredients: trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone octyldodecanol dextrin isostearate and a VP / eicosene copolymer.

According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least the following ingredients: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane dextrin octyldodecanol isostearate an acrylate / t-butylacrylamide copolymer and advantageously a VP / eicosene copolymer.

Additional ingredients

The fatty phase of the composition of the invention can be stabilized and / or structured by a texturing agent, in particular a wax, a pasty fatty substance, a gelling agent or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention does not include a texturing agent, in particular does not include wax or pasty fatty substance.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a texturing agent in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3%, in particular from 0.5 to 2.5%, and preferably from 1 to 2% in weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Raincoats

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will also comprise at least one wax, making it possible to modify the texture of the system without disturbing the result of hold and shine. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a wax content of less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The term “wax”, within the meaning of the present invention, is intended to denote a compound which is solid at 25 ° C. which exhibits a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point greater than 30 ° C., preferably greater than 45 ° C.

Mention may be made of natural waxes (sunflower wax, berry wax), microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by hydrogenation catalytic converter of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with a fatty alcohol, candelilla wax, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and lanolin wax. According to one particular mode, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one candelilla wax.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content ranging from 0.1% to 3%, for example from 0.5 to 2.5%, and preferably from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Thus, the invention relates, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, to a cosmetic composition comprising from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of waxes relative to the total weight of said composition.

Pasty fatty substance According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise a pasty fatty substance.

The term “pasty fatty compound” or “pasty compound” or “pasty fatty substance” denotes a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The pasty compound is, for example, chosen from the group consisting of triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the pasty compound is chosen from fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, such as caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic triglyceride. A composition according to the invention may comprise a content of pasty compounds ranging from 0.1% to 5%, for example 0.1% to 3% by weight, from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, or even from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises an additional ingredient chosen from oils, fillers, dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises an additional ingredient chosen from additional oils, waxes, pasty fatty substances, fillers, gelling agents, coloring matters, and mixtures thereof. Other additional oils

The invention may also comprise other silicone or hydrocarbon oils, which are added to provide lightness and hold to the film deposited on the skin, and which are in particular intended to be removed by evaporation at the time of letting. application and formation of the film on the lips. These oils may be in particular chosen from dimethicones 0.5 to 6cst, branched alkanes, C ₈ -C _16, linear alkanes, C ₉ -C ₁₅ branched esters of C ₈ -C ₁₆ and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, in particular isododecane, or linear C9-C13 alkanes. By way of example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as those sold under the name CETIOL by the company BASF and mixtures of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane. (C14) such as those sold under the name VEGELIGHT by the company GRANT INDUSTRIES as well as their mixtures.

According to one particular embodiment, these oils can be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, in particular from 4 to 15 by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Charges

In addition, the composition of the invention may advantageously comprise fillers for reducing the sensation of tackiness which may gradually appear on the lips due to the presence of the branched ester of dextrin. For the purposes of the invention, the term “fillers” should be understood to mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, of a mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the middle of the composition. The fillers are chosen in particular from silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, oxides of zinc and of titanium; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; powders of synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone or silicone resin powders; cellulose powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat or rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof. As preferred fillers, there may be mentioned in particular cellulose powders, silicone powders, in particular the powders with the INCI name Silicon dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

The fillers may be present in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition of the invention is in particular a makeup composition comprising at least one coloring material.

Coloring materials For the purposes of the present invention, the term “coloring matter” means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

A coloring material can be chosen from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, liposoluble or non-organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the coloring material (s) are chosen in particular from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof. The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, inorganic or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Mention may be made of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on inorganic and / or organic materials). Among the “inorganic pigments”, mention may be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue chromium oxide hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

For the compositions intended for the lips, mention may be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

Among the “organic pigments”, mention may be made, for example, of D & C red pigments No. 19; D & C red n ° 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D & C Yellow # 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D & C red n ° 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D & C Red n ° 36 ;; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D & C yellow n ° 6; ; D&C Red No. 30; D & C red n ° 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lakes.

In particular, the coloring material (s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The following description illustrates the two alternative embodiments of the invention to take into account the two immiscible oily phases.

Device for packaging and dispensing a composition of the invention The invention relates to a device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprising at least:

- a first compartment containing a liquid phase A comprising a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)

dans laquelle [Chem 1]

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR ’represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000,

- a second compartment containing a liquid phase B comprising: a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and a branched ester of dextrin.

Phases A and B are mixed at the outlet of the dispensing device, forming a homogeneous cosmetic composition within the meaning of the invention for application to keratin materials.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B can also comprise a second phenylated silicone oil distinct from the first and having a formula (II)

dans laquelle les groupements R représentent indépendamment les uns des autres un méthyle ou un phényle, au moins trois d’entre eux, voire au moins quatre d’entre eux, voire au moins cinq d’entre eux étant un phényle. [Chem 2]

in which the groups R represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, at least three of them, or even at least four of them, or even at least five of them being a phenyl.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, phase A comprises, as second phenylated silicone oil, a compound of formula (III)

dans laquelle Me représente un méthyle et Ph représente un phényle, autrement nommée trimethyl pentaphényl trisiloxane. [Chem 3]

in which Me represents a methyl and Ph represents a phenyl, otherwise called trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane.

According to a particular embodiment, phases A and B are anhydrous phases. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the branched ester of dextrin in phase B is a dextrin ester, for which the dextrin has an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 150, and for which the fatty acid (s) comprise from 50% to 100% by moles, based on the total amount of fatty acid (s), of one or more saturated branched fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50 mol%, based on the total amount of fatty acid (s), of one or more other fatty acids selected from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, acids linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree of substitution of the dextrin by the fatty acid (s) is from 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

In particular, the branched ester of dextrin in phase B is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isopalmitate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably Branched ester of dextrin is dextrin isostearate. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the C8-C30 fatty alcohol in phase B is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol , oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and is preferably octyldodecanol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, phases A and / or B, in particular phase B, further comprise an additional ingredient chosen from oils, liposoluble film-forming polymers, fillers, gelling agents, coloring materials, and their mixtures. According to a particular embodiment, phase B further comprises another additional oil. According to a particular embodiment, phase B further comprises a liposoluble film-forming polymer.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B further comprises a wax and / or a pasty fatty substance. According to a particular embodiment, phase B further comprises a load.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B further comprises a gelling agent.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B further comprises coloring materials.

The definitions of these ingredients are described above.

Preferably, the liposoluble film-forming polymer is chosen from the group consisting of (i) acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of 'acrylates and acrylamide,

(ii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and (iii) mixtures thereof.

The definitions of these polymers are described above.

According to a preferred embodiment, phase B of the invention will comprise a liposoluble film-forming polymer chosen from a copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, of preferably chosen from a copolymer of acrylate and of t-butylacrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene, and preferably a mixture thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the phases A and B mixed at the outlet of the dispensing device (eg: nozzle which mixes the two phases) form a homogeneous makeup composition, in particular a lip lacquer, a fluid gloss, a lipstick. fluid lips, lip ink, lip balm, gloss, liquid foundation, fluid eye shadow, liquid blush, fluid mascara, fluid eye liner, nail polish. Cosmetic composition to be mixed by mechanical action before use

dans laquelle The invention also relates to a non-homogeneous or two-phase liquid cosmetic composition comprising a) a first phase A ′ comprising a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) [Chem 1].

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3 y preferably varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000, and b) a second phase B', visually distinct from the first phase A ', comprising a C8-C30 fatty alcohol incompatible with the phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) of phase A ', and a branched ester of dextrin.

The non-homogeneous or two-phase liquid composition is intended to be mixed extemporaneously by a mechanical action for re-homogenization before application to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips.

The inhomogeneous or two-phase composition can also be packaged in a top dispensing device (eg, pump, vial, bottle) for simultaneous delivery of both phases. These products require special handling in which two distinct and distinct phase compositions initially are piped to a filling head and simultaneously dispensed into a package or rotating container.

According to a particular embodiment, to produce a composition comprising two visually distinct phases according to the invention, the ingredients of the liquid phase (A) are mixed separately from the ingredients of the liquid phase (B). Each of the phases is carried out in its own tank. Each phase is then introduced separately into a static mixer, which may be a tube inside which is finds a three-dimensional structure favoring the appearance of vortices during the passage of a fluid. The phases are mixed by a static device, that is to say a device which is not driven by a rotary system. The blades of the static mixer elements continuously divide the components into layers and stretch them over the entire section of the pipe to ultimately give the desired visual appearance, for example a "marbled" type visual appearance.

The definitions of the various compounds and of the embodiments are described above. The following paragraphs reflect some of them, without being limiting with respect to the entirety of the foregoing description.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition is anhydrous. Preferably, the composition is a two-phase composition, the two phases of which are separated into visually distinct layers.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the branched ester of dextrin in phase B 'is an ester of dextrin, for which the dextrin has an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 150, and for which the acid (s) fat include from 50% to 100% by moles, based on the total amount of fatty acid (s), of one or more saturated branched fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less of 50 mol%, based on the total amount of fatty acid (s), of one or more other fatty acids selected from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree of substitution of the dextrin by the fatty acid (s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

In particular, the branched ester of dextrin in phase B 'is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isopalmitate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably l The branched ester of dextrin is dextrin isostearate.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B ’further comprises another additional oil.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B ’further comprises a liposoluble film-forming polymer.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B ′ further comprises a wax and / or a pasty fatty substance. According to a particular embodiment, phase B ′ further comprises a load.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B ’further comprises a gelling agent.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B ’further comprises dyestuffs.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the C8-C30 fatty alcohol in phase B 'is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, alcohol. palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol , octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and is preferably octyldodecanol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, phase B ′ further comprises an additional ingredient chosen from oils, liposoluble film-forming polymers, fillers, gelling agents, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

The definitions of these ingredients are described above.

Preferably, the fat-soluble film-forming polymer is chosen from the group consisting of

(i) acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide,

(ii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and

(iii) their mixtures.

The definitions of these polymers are described above.

According to a preferred embodiment, phase B ′ of the invention will comprise a liposoluble film-forming polymer chosen from a copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from a copolymer of acrylate and of t-butylacrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene, and preferably a mixture thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention, mixed extemporaneously by a mechanical action for re-homogenization, forms a makeup composition, in particular a fluid lipstick, a lip ink, a lip balm, gloss, liquid foundation, fluid eye shadow, liquid blush, fluid mascara, fluid eye liner, nail polish.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention (final composition resulting from the mixing at the outlet of the dispensing device or from the extemporaneous mixing by mechanical action) is an anhydrous composition.

By “anhydrous” is meant in particular that water is preferably not added deliberately in the compositions but can be present in trace form in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water.

The composition of the invention is a makeup and / or care composition for keratin materials, in particular a makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips.

As makeup composition for the skin, there may be mentioned in particular a liquid foundation, a liquid eye shadow, a liquid blush, an eye liner, a mascara. As makeup composition for the lips, there may be mentioned in particular a liquid lipstick, a lip lacquer, a lip balm, a lip ink or a gloss.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, it will be a liquid composition for making up the lips, in particular a liquid lipstick, a lip lacquer, or a lip ink.

Cosmetic process

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition such as that dispensed by the cosmetic device defined in the invention, or of a composition of non-homogeneous or two-phase appearance as defined in the invention, after mixing extemporaneous of the latter by a mechanical action for re-homogenization before application to keratin materials.

The mixing of the non-homogeneous composition is carried out by a mechanical action, either by manual agitation of the packaging unit in which the composition is placed, or by the use of an instrument making it possible to apply a mechanical action to the composition. to re-homogenize it, preferably a spatula, a brush or an applicator.

The composition applied to the lips is preferably a liquid makeup composition for the lips, in particular a fluid lipstick, a lip ink, a lip balm, or a gloss.

The process according to the invention is in particular a process for making up the lips, intended to deposit on said lips a shiny and long-lasting film of shine and color.

The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The% are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Selection of an oil to combine with phenylated silicone oil

1.1 Behavior of binary mixtures

The Applicant has evaluated the ability of a phenylated silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) to mix or not with various compounds and hydrocarbon or silicone oils.

There is a possible effect of separation into several layers (otherwise called "demixing") of a binary mixture of immiscible oils. For this, the mixture of the two compounds or oils (BELSIL PDM1000 + Oil X) is heated to 80 ° C. for 15 minutes with stirring. The mixture is packaged in a transparent glass bottle. The mixture is observed at T0 then after 24 hours at rest:

The results are presented in Table 3 below: BINARY MIXTURES: OIL X% / (100-X)% BELSIL PDM-1000) [Table 1]

LEGEND:

0 a transparent phase + a cloudy phase

++ two phases

For test 1.2, only the oils for which a demixing (separation) effect with phenylated silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) is observed, for their 'shiny' effect, and their 'non-transfer' effect is then evaluated. 'colored.

1.2 Assessment of the demixing and non-transfer effect

The selected oils are used for the preparation of a colored test formula comprising the phenyl silicone oil and additionally pigments.

The formula has the following composition (% by weight) [Table 2]

The above test formula is packaged in a vial. The formula is out of phase at rest, taking into account the immiscibility of the oils. It must therefore be shaken before the application step on the lips. The behavior of the test formula when it is applied to the lips is evaluated in vivo on a panel of experts, namely the appearance of a transparent film on the surface of the colored film and the capacity of this film not to transfer the color ('no transfer' effect):

L’effet de démixtion est observé sur les lèvres après application du film, et le non- transfert de la couleur évalué en appliquant un support (ex : un doigt ou un mouchoir en papier tel qu’un mouchoir...) sur les lèvres plusieurs fois à quelques minutes d’intervalle.[Table 3]

The demixing effect is observed on the lips after application of the film, and the non-transfer of the color evaluated by applying a support (eg: a finger or a paper handkerchief such as a handkerchief, etc.) to the lips several times within a few minutes of each other.

It is surprisingly found that octyldodecanol, a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, is the only oil among those tested which allows the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the colored film after application (gloss effect), without transfer of the color. color (non-transfer effect).

Example 2: Selection of film-forming agents The Applicant tested several film-forming agents (resins or polymers) to identify those which could form a homogeneous colored film, while retaining the phenomenon of demixing linked to the presence of immiscible oils. By "homogeneous film" is meant a film which spreads evenly over the lips and has a smooth finish of uniform color, without surface or color irregularities.

2.1 Ability to form a homogeneous film

A test formula is prepared according to Table 4 below, comprising a film-forming agent and binary mixture selected in Example 1.

[Table 4]

The resulting formula is applied to the lips. The homogeneity of the film is evaluated once the formula is applied to the lips (Table 5)

[Table 5]

LEGEND

++ Homogeneous film

+ Non-homogeneous film

0 No film formed

The film-forming agents which produce a homogeneous film on the lips were selected for test 2.2.

2.2 Evaluation of the demixing and non-transfer effect

The behavior of another test formula colored with pigments as defined in Table 6, comprising a film-forming agent selected in 2.1, is again evaluated on a panel of experts. [Table 6]

The above formula is stirred if necessary, before application to the lips.

The behavior of the colored composition with a film-forming agent is evaluated using the same method as in 1.2 (Table 6). The results of the evaluation of demixing and non-transfer of color are presented in Table 7 below:

permet d’obtenir les propriétés recherchées de brillance, non transfert de la couleur et homogénéité du film de maquillage. Exemple 3 : Sélection de polymères de tenue [Table 7]

makes it possible to obtain the desired properties of shine, non-transfer of color and homogeneity of the make-up film. Example 3: Selection of resistance polymers

At the end of Examples 1 and 2 above, an attempt is made to improve the hold of the colored film obtained using the composition of the invention, while maintaining a shine effect linked to the demixing phenomenon observed above. above. A composition is prepared according to the formula (Table 8), which contains both the film-forming agent and the oil selected in the previous examples:

Les pigments sont broyés en présence d’octyldodecanol. Cette phase pigmentaire est chauffée à 95 °C [Table 8]

The pigments are ground in the presence of octyldodecanol. This pigment phase is heated to 95 ° C

Separately, dextrin isostearate is dispersed in octyldodecanol at 95 ° C using a Rayneri. After homogenization, the phenyl silicone oil is added.

The two phases prepared above are mixed and homogenized while hot. The X-hold polymer is added to the composition obtained in the previous step.

The composition is poured into a suitable packaging unit, then cooled.

The properties of the different compositions prepared are evaluated using the protocol below: In the present case, the liquid composition is stirred manually before its use for making up the lips. The composition is applied to the lips with an applicator or a brush. a — Evaluation at T0 Wait 5 minutes after the film of the composition has been deposited on the lips, then the finger is applied lightly to the lips to evaluate the tackiness of the film and to check that the colored film has not been transferred. A photo of the makeup lips is taken to visually assess the shine at T0. b — Evaluation at T12h The finger is lightly applied to the lips to evaluate the tackiness and check the non-transfer of the colored film at T2h.

A photo of the makeup lips is taken to assess the shine and compare it with that observed at TO. The results are presented in Table 9 below:

[Table 9]

LEGEND

Effect (demixing and non-transfer)

Effect OK: 2

Insufficient performance: 1 No effect: 0

Evaluation (sticky and shiny) for the formulas with a satisfactory demixing effect and non-transfer (note 2): - insufficient 0 average + satisfactory

It is noted that the performance polymers tested do not all exhibit the same behavior when they are combined in a composition of the invention.

A number of them do not achieve the effect of the invention, which consists in the appearance of a transparent film on the surface of the applied film providing shine and non-transfer of color.

There are disparities in the performance evaluated by a panel of experts, in terms of tack, shine and hold.

To obtain optimum performance in a composition of the invention, an eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer and / or an acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide copolymer will be used.

The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting formulations. Unless otherwise indicated, the% are expressed as% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition.

Example 4: Compositions according to the invention

The following compositions are illustrated with hold polymers, but it is also possible to prepare compositions without hold up polymer (qs on oils, resin and waxes) and obtain completely acceptable gloss and non-transfer performance.

The use of hold polymers further improves the hold of said compositions.

The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure: Introduce the resin (branched ester of dextrin) and the holding polymer (acrylate / butyl acrylamide copolymer) into a part of the octyldodecanol at 95 ° C. with stirring.

After homogenization, add the film-forming (VP / eicosene copolymer) and stir for 30 min.

Add the waxes and stir for 20 min.

Grind the pigments in the remaining octyldoddecanol. Add this pigment phase to the rest of the formula and homogenize well

Add the phenylated silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) to the preparation under hot stirring for at least 20-30 min.

Add the oils and semi-solid fatty substances and stir for 15 min. Then add the powdered charges and stir for 20-30 min.

Finally add the isododecane and leave to homogenize for 2 min max then condition.

6-1 Liquid composition for the lips packaged in a double-compartment device The colored phase containing all the ingredients except the phenylated silicone oil is prepared and packaged in the reservoir (compartment) of a device (or pack) with double compartments ( tanks).

En sortie de dispositif, la composition distribuée est sous forme d’une composition homogène. Phenylated silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) is packaged in the other tank of the pack. Color phase of the composition [Table 10]

On leaving the device, the composition dispensed is in the form of a homogeneous composition.

Applied to the lips, the composition leaves a shiny film and improved hold during the day, while remaining comfortable.

6-2 Liquid composition for the lips to be mixed before use [Table 11]

The composition has an inhomogeneous macroscopic appearance and is mixed with a brush before application to the lips.

Applied to the lips, the composition leaves a shiny film and improved hold during the day, while remaining comfortable.

Claims

1. Device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprising at least: - a first compartment containing a liquid phase A comprising a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) [Chem 1]

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR ’represents a group - OSiMe3 y ranges from 1 to 1000, and z ranges from 1 to 1000, and - a second compartment containing a liquid phase B comprising: a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and a branched ester of dextrin. 2. Cosmetic device according to claim 1, characterized in that phases A and B are anhydrous phases. 3. Cosmetic device according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the branched ester of dextrin in phase B is a dextrin ester, for which the dextrin has an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 150, and in which the fatty acid (s) comprise from 50% to 100% by moles, based on the total amount of fatty acid (s), of one or more saturated branched fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms , and from 0% to less than 50% by moles, based on the total amount of fatty acid (s), of one or more other fatty acids selected from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having 2 with 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree of substitution of dextrin per fatty acid (s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose. 4. Cosmetic device according to claim 3, characterized in that the branched ester of dextrin in phase B is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably the branched ester of dextrin is dextrin isostearate. 5. Cosmetic device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C8-C30 fatty alcohol in composition B is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2- alcohol hexyldecyl, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and is preferably octyldodecanol. 6. Cosmetic device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that phase B further comprises an additional ingredient chosen from additional oils, liposoluble film-forming polymers, waxes, pasty fatty substances, fillers, gelling agents. , coloring matters, and mixtures thereof. 7. Cosmetic device according to claim 6, characterized in that the fat-soluble film-forming polymer is chosen from the group consisting of (i) acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide, (ii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and (iii) their mixtures. 8. Cosmetic device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mixed phases A and B form a homogeneous makeup composition, in particular a fluid lipstick, a lip ink, a lip balm, a gloss. , liquid foundation, fluid eye shadow, liquid blush, fluid mascara, fluid eye liner, nail polish. 9. Liquid cosmetic composition comprising at least two visually distinct phases and comprising a) a first phase A ’comprising a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) [Chem 1]

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000, and b) a second phase B' comprising a C8-C30 fatty alcohol incompatible with the phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) of phase A ′, and a branched ester of dextrin. 10. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition as distributed by the device. cosmetic defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, or of a composition comprising at least two visually distinct phases as defined in claim 9 after mixing thereof by a mechanical action for rehomogenization before application to said keratin materials . 11. Cosmetic process according to claim 10, characterized in that the mixing of the composition comprising at least two visually distinct phases is carried out by manual stirring or using a brush, a spatula or an applicator.