WO2015014789A1 - Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, at least one branched dextrin ester and at least one fatty alcohol - Google Patents

Abstract

This invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: • - alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose; • - at least one branched dextrin ester, preferably dextrin isostearate; and • - at least one fatty alcohol ROH, R representing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon radical, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably octyldodecanol.

Description

ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, AT LEAST ONE BRANCHED DEXTRIN ESTER AND AT LEAST ONE FATTY ALCOHOL

This invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, at least one branched dextrin ester and at least one fatty alcohol.

In general, cosmetic compositions must provide an aesthetic effect when applied to the skin and/or lips, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time. Once applied, they must in particular resist various external factors capable of modifying their aesthetic effect such as perspiration or tears for foundation, or saliva for lipstick.

The improvement in stability, in particular of the color of the deposit of cosmetic products over time, once applied to the skin and/or lips, is a constant concern for formulators practicing in the field of lipsticks, lip glosses and other skin and/or lip care products. In addition, it is desirable to avoid the transfer of makeup deposits onto certain materials with which they may come into contact, in particular a glass, a cup, a cigarette, clothing or skin.

It is known that ethylcellulose makes it possible, when it is used in a sufficient amount in cosmetic and/or therapeutic compositions, to obtain deposits having improved adhesion and stability properties, in particular on the lips or skin. It has also been demonstrated that ethylcellulose, solubilized in a sufficient amount in the compositions, enables the formation of a film on the skin and/or lips to be facilitated, and the water resistance of this film to be improved.

In general, mono-alcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms are preferred for solubilizing sufficient amounts of ethylcellulose in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions. However, these volatile mono-alcohols have the disadvantage of being potentially uncomfortable (tautness, dryness), or even irritating for the skin and/or lips, and consequently may be detrimental when used repeatedly on the skin or lips.

The use, as an alternative to C₂-C₈ mono-alcohols, of other volatile solvents such as isododecane or cyclopentasiloxane has also been envisaged.

Unfortunately, the substitution of C₂-C₈ mono-alcohols with these solvents may be detrimental in terms of homogeneity of the composition (in particular the formation of grains in the composition), stability and homogeneity of the resulting deposit on the skin or lips.

Consequently, there is a need for cosmetic compositions, comprising a sufficient amount of alkylcellulose, that are homogeneous, and capable of forming a deposit on the skin and/or lips that is homogeneous, bright, non-tacky and that has satisfactory stability properties.

There is more specifically a need for homogeneous makeup and/or skin and/or lip care compositions, comprising a sufficient amount of dispersed alkylcellulose, comfortable to apply and wear, in particular not having a tacky effect (or having only a slightly tacky effect), and enabling a deposit to be obtained that is homogeneous, bright and stable and that does not move into lines and wrinkles over the course of the day.

This invention is specifically intended to respond to these needs.

This invention is intended to provide a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a lipstick, having good brightness properties.

This invention is also intended to provide a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a lipstick, having very good brightness and color stability properties.

This invention is also intended to provide a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a lipstick, making it possible to prevent the transfer of said composition onto materials with which it may come into contact, such as, in particular, a cup.

This invention is also intended to provide a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a lipstick, that is comfortable to apply and wear, in particular not having a tacky effect.

Thus, this invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- alkylcellulose;

- at least one branched dextrin ester; and

- at least one fatty alcohol ROH, R representing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, a cosmetic composition according to the invention enables a deposit to be obtained having good properties in terms of stability of color and brightness, comfort on application and over time, and brightness. It has also been observed by the inventors that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to prevent the transfer, for example onto a cup, of said composition.

In the sense of this invention, "anhydrous" refers to a composition in which water is not deliberately added, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition (for example, a water content of less than 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition).

A cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in liquid or solid form at 20^ and at atmospheric pressure.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in liquid form at 20 ^<€.

In the sense of this invention, "liquid" refers to a fluid composition that is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20 °C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), by contrast with so-called solid compositions.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a liquid lipstick, also called gloss.

According to another embodiment, the composition is in solid form at 20 °C and at atmospheric pressure. It can, for example, be a lipstick.

In the sense of the invention, the term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at a temperature of 20 'Ό. In particular, a solid composition according to the invention has, at a temperature of 20^ and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a hardness above 30 Nm ¹ , and preferably above 40 Nm ¹.

Protocol for measuring hardness

The hardness of a solid composition according to the invention, in particular in the form of a stick, is measured according to the following protocol:

The stick is preserved at 20 ^ for 24 hours before the hardness is measured.

The hardness can be measured at 20 °C by the so-called "butter cutter wire" method, which consists in transversally cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical, by means of a rigid tungsten wire having a diameter of 250 μηι while moving the wire with respect to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/min.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm^"1 , is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer sold by the INDELCO- CHATILLON company. The measurement is reproduced three times, then averaged. The average of the three values read by means of the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into Newton then divided by L, which represents the largest dimension passed through by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

The hardness is converted into Nm^"1 by the equation below:

(Y x 10^"3 x 9.8)/L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is kept for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention has a hardness at 20^qC, greater than or equal to 30 Nm^"1 , preferably greater than 40 Nm^"1 , and preferably greater than 50 Nm^"1.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention in particular has a hardness at 20 ^qC, below 500 Nm^"1 , in particular below 400 Nm^"1 , and preferably below 300 Nm^"1.

In particular, a composition of which the hardness is greater than 30 Nm^"1 is a so-called "solid" composition at 20 ^ and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Physiologically acceptable medium

By "physiologically acceptable medium", we mean a medium that is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention on the skin and lips, such as the organic solvents or oils commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suitable (acceptable tolerance, toxicology and feel) for the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied, as well as the way in which the composition is to be packaged.

Alkylcellulose

A composition according to the invention comprises at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl portion being in particular C₂-C₄. Preferably, the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, and according to one particularly advantageous embodiment, the alkylcelluose is ethylcellulose.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content greater than or equal to 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably between 2% and 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition. In particular, if the composition is in liquid form, the alkylcellulose content, expressed by dry matter content, varies from 5% to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

If the composition is in solid form, the alkylcellulose content, expressed by dry matter content, varies from 2% to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, alkylcellulose is present in the stable and homogeneous dispersion state, i.e. in a dispersed form in the composition according to the invention.

The alkylcellulose is a C₂-C₄ aliphatic ether of cellulose, in particular ethyl ether in the case of ethylcellulose, comprising a chain consisting of β- anhydroglucose units linked to one another by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of these hydroxyl groups being capable of reacting according to the following reaction:

RONa + R'CI -» ROR' + NaCI, where R represents a cellulose radical and R' represents a C₂-C₄ alkyl radical, preferably C₂H₅.

The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead, for each anhydroglucose unit, to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words, to an alkoxy group, in particular ethoxy group, content of 54.88%.

The alkylcellulose, in particular ethylcellulose, polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution of alkoxy groups, preferably ethoxy groups, ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words, comprising an alkoxy group, and preferably ethoxy group, content ranging from 44% to 50%.

In particular, the alkylcellulose used in the preparation of a composition according to the invention can be in powder form.

As examples of alkylcellulose polymers that may be used in a composition according to this invention, mention may be made very specifically of the products sold by the HERCULES, Inc. company (Wilmington, Del.), under the name "Aqualon^® Ethylcellulose".

The "Aqualon^® Ethylcellulose" products are referenced according to four categories (type K, N, T or X) according to the ethoxy group content, as shown in table 1 below. TABLE 1

The different ethylcellulose polymers are also specified with regard to the measured viscosity of a 5% by weight solution of ethylcellulose in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80:20). For example, the product "Aqualon K100 Ethylcellulose" refers to the ethylcellulose polymer of type K, i.e. comprising 45 to 47.2% ethoxy groups (or a degree of substitution of ethoxy groups per anhydroglucose unit ranging from 2.22 to 2.41 ), and having, at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80:20), an average viscosity of 100 mPa.s.

The "Aqualon^® Ethylcellulose" products of categories N, T, X are also referenced according to their viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80:20) at 25 °C (the measurements being performed according to the ASTM D914 method), as shown in table 2 below.

TABLE 2

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer comprising a degree of substitution of ethoxy groups per anhydroglucose unit ranging from 2.46 to 2.57. Preferably, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having, in particular, a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80:20) at 25 °C of between 3 and 350 mPa.s.

Preferably, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having, in particular, a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80:20) at 25 °C of between 3 and 105 mPa.s.

Preferably, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having, in particular, a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80:20) at 25 °C of between 3 and 24 mPa.s.

Even more preferably, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having, in particular, a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80:20) at 25 °C of between 3 and 8 mPa.s.

Finally, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having, in particular, a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80:20) at 25 °C of between 3 and 5.5 mPa.s.

Thus, in particular the ethylcelluloses of type N or T are preferred, preferably type N, sold by the Aqualon company.

In a particularly preferred manner, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is the product sold by Aqualon under the name "Aqualon N4 Ethylcellulose".

In a particularly preferred manner, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having, in particular, a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80:20) at 25^ of between 3 and 6 mPa.s.

Branched dextrin ester

The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one branched dextrin ester. They can therefore comprise a single branched dextrin ester or a mixture of different branched dextrin esters.

In the context of this invention, the term "branched dextrin ester" refers to a dextrin modified by esterification by at least one branched chain fatty acid. It is also possible to designate this branched dextrin ester by the term "branched fatty acid and dextrin ester" or "branched fatty acid dextrin ester" or "dextrin esterified by at least one branched fatty acid". According to one embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is a dextrin esterified by at least one fatty acid.

First, the dextrin more specifically has an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150, and preferably 10 to 100.

In addition, the fatty acid(s) comprise 50% to 100% in moles, preferably 55% to 100% in moles, on the basis of the total amount of fatty acid(s), one or more branched saturated fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms, more advantageously having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and 0% to less than 50% in moles, preferably from 0 to 45% in moles, on the basis of the total amount of fatty acid(s), one or more other fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of the linear saturated fatty acids having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, the unsaturated linear or branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the saturated or unsaturated cyclic fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

Finally, the degree of substitution of dextrin by the fatty acid(s) is 1 .0 to 3.0 per glucose unit.

As examples of saturated branched fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms, mention may be made of isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2-ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isomyristic acid, isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, isoarachic acid, and isohexacosanoic acid or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid chosen is isostearic acid.

As examples of saturated linear fatty acids having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, mention may be made of the acetic, caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachidic, and behenic acids or mixtures thereof. The linear fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms are preferable, and even more specifically those having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

Among the linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, mention may be made of the unsaturated mono-acids such as cis-4- decenoic, 9-decenoic, cis-4-dodecenoic, cis-4-tetradecenoic, cis-5-tetradecenoic, cis-9-tetradecenoic, cis-6-hexadecenoic, cis-9-hexadecenoic, cis-9-octadecenoic, trans-9-octadecenoic, cis-1 1 -octadecenoic, cis-1 1 -eicosenoic, cis-17-hexacosenoic and cis-21 -triacontenoic acids; the polyunsaturated acids such as sorbic, linoleic, hiragonic, punicic, linolenic, stearidonic, arachidonic, EPA, DHA, anisic, stearolic, crepenynic and ximenynic acids or mixtures thereof. With regard to cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated acids having a cyclic structure in at least a portion of the base skeleton and having 6 to 30 carbon atoms are suitable, such as, for example, 9,10-methylene-9-octadecenoic, aleprylic, alepric, gorlic, [alpha] cyclopentylic, [alpha] cyclohexylic, [alpha] cyclopentylethylic, [alpha] cyclohexylmethylic, [omega] cyclohexylic, 5 (6)-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1 - octanoic, malvalic, sterculynic, hydnocarpic and chaulmoogric acids or mixtures thereof.

The branched dextrin ester used according to the invention can therefore comprise one esterified chain or a plurality of esterified chains, identical or different. It can, for example, be a dextrin esterified by a plurality of identical or different fatty acids.

These dextrin esters can be prepared by using conventional esterification methods.

For example, the following methods can be used:

1 ) Dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted with one or more branched fatty acid derivatives as well as with, as the case may be, one or more derivatives of other fatty acids, in the proportions required for obtaining the dextrin ester described above.

2) Dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted in a first step, with one or more branched fatty acid derivatives, then in a second step, with one or more derivatives of one or more of the other fatty acids, in the proportions required for obtaining the dextrin ester described above.

Normally, acid anhydrides and halides are used as fatty acid derivatives.

More specifically, in one and the other of the two options mentioned above, dextrin is dispersed in a reaction solvent, and a catalyst is added to it, if necessary. This mixture is reacted by adding the aforementioned fatty acid derivatives, preferably halides. In method 1 ), these derivatives are mixed and added simultaneously to the reaction mixture, and in method 2), the derivatives are introduced successively.

As a common solvent, mention may be made of dimethylformamide, formamide, acetamide, ketones, aromatic compounds such as benzene, toluene, xylene, dioxane, or mixtures thereof.

The suitable catalysts are normally chosen from the tertiary amine compounds such as pyridine or picoline. The reaction temperature is generally chosen on the basis of the starting derivatives of the fatty acid(s). It is generally between 0 and Ι ΟΟ 'Ό.

The dextrin esters are then purified as usual.

Such dextrin esters are in particular described in the European application EP 2537865.

Among the marketed compounds, mention may be made of the UNIFILMA HVY dextrin isostearate sold by the Chiba Flour Milling Company.

According to one embodiment, the amount of branched dextrin ester in a composition according to the invention is between 5% and 25% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

More specifically, when the composition is liquid, the percentage of branched dextrin ester is between 5% and 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, and more specifically between 10% and 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

When the composition is in a solid form, the branched dextrin ester content is advantageously between 15% and 25% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate.

Fatty alcohol

The compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one fatty alcohol as defined above. They can therefore comprise a single fatty alcohol or a mixture of different fatty alcohols.

The fatty alcohols used according to this invention can be represented by the formula ROH, R representing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, more specifically comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the radical R mentioned above is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising 8 to 30 and in particular 10 to 26, and preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or natural origin, such as, for example, alcohols obtained from plant matter (copra, oil palm, palmate) or animal matter (tallow).

Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as, for example, ether alcohols or so-called Guerbet alcohols.

Finally, it is also possible to use certain more or less long alcohol cuts of natural origin, such as, for example, coconut (C₁₂ to d₆) or tallow (Ci₆ to Ci₈) or diol or cholesterol-type compounds.

As specific examples of fatty alcohols that can preferably be used, mention may be made in particular of lauric, myristic, isostearylic, palmitic, oleic, behenic, erucic, arachidyl, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecylic, isocetylic and octyldodecanol alcohol and mixtures thereof.

According to a very advantageous embodiment, the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol.

According to one embodiment, the amount of fatty alcohol in the composition according to the invention is between 10% and 70% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition, preferably between 15% and 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition for a solid form. When the composition is in liquid form, this content is preferably between 40% and 60% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

The compositions according to the invention can also comprise, in addition to the compositions indicated above, namely alkylcellulose, and preferably ethylcellulose, a branched dextrin ester and a fatty alcohol, at least one non-volatile oil, different from the aforementioned fatty alcohol.

Non-volatile oils

The compositions according to the invention can comprise a non-volatile oil or a mixture of a plurality of non-volatile oils.

The non-volatile oil(s) are more specifically chosen from non-volatile phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, non-volatile polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from the group consisting of silicone oils, phenylated silicone oils, hydrocarbon silicon oils, non-polar or polar, and mixtures thereof. "Non-volatile" means an oil of which the vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is different from zero and below 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and preferably below 10^~3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

More specifically, the non-volatile oil content is at least 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously at least 8% by weight. Preferably, the non-volatile oil content is between 10% and 50% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition, and even more specifically between 20% and 45% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

Silicone oils

"Silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-0 groups.

Non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils

The expression "non-phenylated silicone oil" or "non-phenylated silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil not having a phenyl substituent.

Examples of these non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils that can be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyldimethicones, vinylmethylmethicones, and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and/or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

It should be noted that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is preferably chosen from the nonvolatile dimethicone oils.

In particular, these oils can be chosen from the following non-volatile oils:

- polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS),

- PDMS comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl, or alkoxy groups, that are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprise 2 to 24 carbon atoms. As an example, mention may be made of cetyl dimethicone, sold under the trade name ABIL WAX 9801 of Evonik Goldschmidt,

- PDMS including aliphatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

- polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes and mixtures thereof. Preferably, these non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyldimethicones and also PDMS including aliphatic groups, in particular C₂-C₂4 alkyl and/or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

The non-phenylated silicone can be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I):

wherein:

Ri , R₂, 5 and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular of which the viscosity at 25°C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10^~6 m²/s) and 800,000 cSt.

As non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which:

- the substituents Ri to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500,000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name SE30 by the General Electric company, the product sold under the name AK 500,000 by the Wacker company, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by the Bluestar company, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cSt by the Dow Corning company,

- the substituents Ri to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60,000 CS by the Dow Corning company, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60,000 by the Wacker company,

- the substituents Ri to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt, or 350 cSt, for example the products sold under the names, respectively, Belsil DM100, Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS, by the Dow Corning company,

- the substituents Ri to R₆ represent a methyl group, group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid TO.7 by the Momentive company.

Non-volatile phenylated silicone oils

The expression "phenylated silicone oil" or "phenyl silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.

These non-volatile phenylated silicone oils can be chosen from those having, in addition, at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those not having one.

According to the invention, a dimethicone fragment corresponds to the following unit: -Si(CH₃)₂-0-.

The non-volatile phenylated silicone oil can thus be chosen from: a) the phenyl silicone oils having or not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (I):

wherein the R groups, monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, on the condition that at least one R group represents a phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six groups. b) the phenyl silicone oils having or not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (2) :

R R R

R Si I O Si I O Si I R

R I R I R I (II) wherein the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, on the condition that at least one R group represents a phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (I I) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five groups.

Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds described above can be used.

Examples that may be mentioned include triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxane mixtures.

Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made more specifically of the phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment, corresponding to formula (II), in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals representing methyl radicals.

Such non-volatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyl- trisiloxane, or tetramethyl-tetraphenyl-trisiloxane. They are in particular sold by Dow Corning under the name PH-1 555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1 ,3,5-trimethyl-1 , 1 ,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl-pentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyl-tetraphenyl-trisiloxane sold under the name Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.

They correspond in particular to the following formulas (I I I), (Ι Ι Γ):

Ph Ph Ph Me Ph Me

I I I I I I

Me-Si-O-Si-O— Si-Me Ph-Si-O-SrO— Si- Ph

\ \ \ \ \ \

Ph Me Ph ^ Me Ph Me

wherein Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention include trimethylpentaphenyl-trisiloxane. c) the phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (IV):

wherein Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH₂-CH(CH₃)(Ph). d) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures thereof:

(V) wherein:

- Ri to Rio, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C C₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals,

- m, n, p and q are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 900, on the condition that the sum m+n+q is different from 0.

Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

Preferably, q is equal to 0.

More specifically, Ri to Ri₀, independently of one another, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated Ci-C₃₀ hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a preferably saturated Ci-C₂₀, in particular C Ci₈, hydrocarbon radical, or monocyclic or polycyclic C₆-Ci₄ and in particular Ci₀-Ci₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, preferably in which the alkyl portion is C C₃.

Preferably Ri to R ₀ can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Ri to R ₀ can in particular be identical, and can also be a methyl radical. According to a more specific embodiment of formula (V), mention may be made of:

i) the phenyl silicone oils having or not having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:

wherein:

- Ri to R₆, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched CrC₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals, an aryl radical, preferably C₆-Ci₄, or an aralkyl radical of which the alkyl portion is CrC₃,

- m, n and p are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, on the condition that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, Ri to R₆, independently of one another, represent a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a Ci-C₂₀, in particular Ci-Ci₈ alkyl, or a monocyclic (preferably C₆) or polycyclic C₆-Ci₄ aryl radical, and in particular Ci₀-Ci₃, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl portion is C₆; the alkyl portion is CrC₃).

Preferably, Ri to R₆ can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

Ri to R₆ can in particular be identical, and can also be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VI). According to a specific embodiment, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil is chosen from the phenylated silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment.

Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) wherein:

A) m=0 and n and p are, independently of one another, integers between 1 and 100.

Preferably Ri to R₆ are methyl radicals.

According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyldimethicone such as KF-54 of Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV of Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS of Shin Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 of Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF- 50-100CS of Shin Etsu (100 cSt).

B) p is between 1 and 100, the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, and n=0. These phenyl silicone oils have or do not have at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding more specifically to formula (VII) below:

wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a -OSiMe₃ group and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

According to a first embodiment of a non-volatile phenylated silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000, and m is more specifically such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. It is possible to use, for example, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular under the name Belsil PDM 1000 by the Wacker company.

According to an embodiment of a non-volatile phenylated silicone not having a dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0, m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular, is such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

It is possible to use, for example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, sold in particular under the name Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556). ii) the non-volatile phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof:

wherein:

- the Rs, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals, preferably R is a Ci-C₃₀ alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably C₆-Ci₄, or an aralkyl radical of which the alkyl portion is C C₃;

- m and n are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, on the condition that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, the Rs, independently of one another, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably saturated C C₃₀ hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a preferably saturated CrC₂₀, in particular C Ci₈ and more specifically C₄-Ci₀ hydrocarbon radical, a monocyclic or polycyclic C₆-C and in particular Ci₀-Ci₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl portion is C₆ and the alkyl portion is C C₃).

Preferably, the Rs can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

The Rs can in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VIII).

According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, on the condition that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII). Preferably, R is a methyl radical.

According to an embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 °C between 5 and 1500 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used. According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyltrimethicones (when n=0) such as DC556 of Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), or from diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KF56 A of Shin Etsu, the oil Silbione 70663V30 of Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt). The values between parentheses represent the viscosities at 25^.

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention include phenyltrimethicone.

(e) the phenyl silicone oils have or do not have at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:

wherein:

Ri , R₂, R₅ and R₆ are, identical or not, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ and R₄ are, identical or not, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C₆-Ci₄), on the condition that at least one of R₃ and R₄ is a phenyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1 , chosen so as to give the oil a mean molar mass by weight below 200,000 g/mole, preferably below 150,000 g/mole and more preferably below 100,000 g/mole.

f) and a mixture thereof.

Non-volatile fluorinated oils

"Fluorinated oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

As an example of fluorinated oils, mention may be made of fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones in particular as described in document EP-A-847752 and perfluorinated compounds. Perfluorinated compounds, according to the invention, are compounds of which all of the hydrogen atoms have been substituted with fluorine atoms.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil is chosen from the perfluorinated oils.

As an example of perfluorinated oils, mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil is chosen from the perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular the Fiflow^® products sold by the Creations Couleurs company. In particular, it is possible to use the fluorinated oil, the INCI name of which is perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the name FIFLOW 220 by the F2 Chemicals company.

Non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils

"Hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil essentially formed by, or consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms.

It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oils is free, aside from silicon, of fluorine, heteroatoms such as N, Si and P. The hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicon oil and a fluorinated oil.

In this case, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil includes at least one oxygen atom.

In particular, this non-volatile hydrocarbon oil includes at least one alcohol function (it is thus an "alcohol oil") and/or at least one ester function (it is thus an "ester oil").

The ester oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention can in particular be hydroxylated.

The composition can include one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from:

- the monoesters, the diesters, the triesters, optionally hydroxylated, a C₂-C₈ mono or polycarboxylic acid and a C₂-C₈ alcohol.

In particular:

^* the monoesters of a C₂-C₈ carboxylic acid and a C₂-C₈ alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, ^* the diesters of a C₂-C₈ carboxylic diacid and a C₂-C₈ alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, such as diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2 hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate and 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate,

^* the triesters of a C₂-C₈ carboxylic triacid and a C₂-C₈ alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethylcitrate, acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate and acetyltributyl citrate,

- the esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic acids, such as glycol diesters, and monoacids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters and monoacids such as triacetin.

- the ester oils, in particular having between 18 and 70 carbon atoms.

As examples, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri- esters.

The ester oils may or may not be hydroxylated.

The non-volatile ester oil can be chosen, for example, from:

^* monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula RiCOOR₂ wherein Ri represents the radical of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 saturated or unsaturated carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms on the condition that Ri + R₂ is > 18, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, Ci₂ to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2- octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate.

Preferably, they are esters of formula RiCOOR₂ wherein represents the radical of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, Ri and R₂ being such that Ri + R₂ is > 18.

Even more specifically, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total.

As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate; ^* fatty acid monoesters, in particular with 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene glycol monoisostearate.

^* diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is possible in particular to use dicarboxylic acid diesters and monoalcohols, such as, preferably, diisostearyl malate, or glycol diesters and monocarboxylic acid diesters, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethyleneglycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the trade name DERMOL DGDIS by the Alzo company);

^* hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerine stearate;

^* triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol and monocarboxylic acid triesters such as polyglycerol- 2 triisostearate;

^* tetraesters, in particular having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesterse and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate;

^* polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or trimers and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as, in particular dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol. Mention may particularly be made in the respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or the polyol and dimer diacid copolymers, and esters thereof, such as Hailucent ISDA ;

^* dimer diol and mono or dicarboxylic acid esters, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters and diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular capable of being obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular C₈ to C₃₄, in particular C₁₂ to C₂₂, in particular Ci₆ to C₂₀, and more specifically Ci₈, such as esters of dilinoleic diacid and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example those sold by the NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL company under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5^® and DD-DA7^® ; ^* the polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated, such as castor oil, succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the name Zenigloss by Zenitech;

^* hydrocarbon plant oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil, in particular, and mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as that sold under the name Myritol 318 of Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerine trioctanoate, Οι₈-₃₆ acid triglycerides such as those sold under the name DUB TGI 24 sold by Stearineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil and pracaxi oil.

- vinylpyrrolidone/1 -hexadecene copolymers, such as, for example, that sold under the name ANTARON V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by the ISP company (MW=7300 g/mol).

- Ci₂-C₂₆, preferably Ci₂-C₂₂, preferably unsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

- dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being capable of being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis.

- and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

These oils can be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

A "non-polar oil", in the sense of this invention, is an oil of which the solubility parameter at 25 °C, 5_a, is equal to 0 (J/cm³)^½.

The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the HANSEN three- dimensional solubility space are described in the article of C. M. HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- 5_D characterizes LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced by molecular shocks;

- δ_ρ characterizes DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 5_h characterizes the forces of specific interactions (hydrogen, acid/base, donor/acceptor bonds, etc.); and

- 5_a is determined by the equation: 5_a = (δ_ρ ² + 5_h ²)^½ .

The parameters δ_ρ, 5_h, 5_D and 5_a are expressed in (J/cm³)^½.

A "hydrocarbon oil" is an oil essentially formed by, or consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

Preferably, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from the linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

- paraffin oil or derivatives thereof,

- squalane,

- isoeicosane,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (with a molar mass of MW=965 g/mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW=2160g/mol) sold or manufactured by the AMOCO company,

- polyisobutenes

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam^® sold by the NIPPON OIL FATS company, PANALANE H-300 E sold or manufactured by the AMOCO company (MW =1340 g/mol), VISEAL 20000 sold or manufactured by the SYNTEAL company (MW=6000 g/mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the WITCO company (MW=1000 g/mol), or PARLEAM LITE sold by the NOF Corporation,

- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW=723 g/mol), PURESYN 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the MOBIL CHEMICALS company, or PURESYN 6 sold by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL),

- and mixtures thereof. The compositions according to the invention can also include at least one compound chosen from waxes, pasty fats, lipophilic gelling agents, fillers and mixtures thereof.

Wax(es)

The composition according to the invention can include at least one wax. Preferably, when the composition is in liquid form, it includes at least one wax.

A "wax", in the sense of the invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 'Ό), with a reversible change in solid/liquid state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 'Ό and capable of reaching up to 120°C.

The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from solid waxes, deformable or non-deformable at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

It is possible in particular to use hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as esters thereof.

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention include microcrystalline wax.

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention include ozokerite.

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention include polyethylene wax.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains.

Among these, mention may be made in particular of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1 ,1 ,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the HETERENE company, and di-(trimethylol-1 ,1 ,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the HETERENE company.

It is also possible to use waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of plant oils, such as castor or olive oil, such as waxes sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64^® and 22L73^® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the SOPHIM company. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A-2792190.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point.

Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1 1 18-3 and 176- 1 1481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC).

The silicone waxes that can be used may also be alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C₂₀-C₆₀) alkyl- dimethicones, in particular (C30-C45) alkyl-dimethicones such as silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the GE-Bayer Silicones company.

It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified by silicone or fluorine groups such as, for example: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax of Koster Keunen.

The waxes can also be chosen from the fluorinated waxes.

The wax or waxes may be present in an amount ranging from 1 % to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Pasty fats

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one pasty fat.

A "pasty fat", in the sense of this invention, is a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible change in solid/liquid state, having, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising, at a temperature of 23 °C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the beginning melting point of the pasty compound may be below 23 °C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 °C may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ^ preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

In the sense of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO standard 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax may be measured by means of a differential scanning calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the TA Instruments company.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (depending on the case) arranged in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 °C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10 ^/minute, then is cooled from l OO'C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ^ to l OO 'C at a heating rate of 5 ^/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the paste or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23^ is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23^ to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound in order to go from the solid sate to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in solid crystalline form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area below the curve on the thermogram obtained by means of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the TA Instrument company, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 'C per minute, according to ISO standard 1 1357-3:1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy necessary for causing the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample in order to change from the solid state to its state at 23 ^ consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 °C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ^<C is equal to 100 %, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 °C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ^<C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ^<C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 °C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C.

The pasty fat can be chosen from the synthetic compounds and the compounds of plant origin. A pasty fat can be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin.

The pasty fat is advantageously chosen from:

- lanolin and derivatives thereof such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanonlins, acetylated lanoline, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,

- silicone polymer or non-polymer compounds such as high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethysiloxanes with alkyl or alkoxy side chains having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular stearyl dimethicones,

- fluorinated polymer or non-polymer compounds,

- vinyl polymers, in particular

- olefin homopolymers,

- olefin copolymers,

- hydrogenated diene copolymers and homopolymers,

- linear or branched oligomers, alkyl (meth)acrylate homo or copolymers preferably having a C₈-C₃o alkyl group,

- vinyl ester homo and copolymer oligomers having C₈-C₃o alkyl groups,

- vinyl ether homo and copolymer oligomers having C₈-C₃o alkyl groups,

- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C₂-Ci₀o, and preferably C₂-C₅o diols,

- esters and polyesters,

- and mixtures thereof.

The pasty fat can be a polymer, in particular hydrocarbon.

A preferred silicone and fluorine-containing pasty fat is polymethyl-trifluoropropyl-methylalkyl-dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU.

When the pasty fat is a silicone and/or fluorine-containing polymer, the composition advantageously includes a compatibilizing agent such as short-chain esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, mention may be made in particular of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide copolymers with C₆-C₃₀ alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention is particularly made of block copolymer comprising C₆-C₃o alkylene oxide blocks having a molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene or OE units) sold under the name ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred:

- the esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those in particular sold under the name Softisan 649 by the Sasol company;

- phytosterol esters;

- pentaerythritol esters;

- esters formed by:

- at least one Ci₆-₄o alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol, and

- a diacid dimer formed by at least one Ci₈-₄o unsaturated fatty acid, such as the ester of tall oil fatty acid dimer comprising 36 carbon atoms and a mixture i) of Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the ester of linoleic acid dimer and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl- octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and

2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms);

- non-cross-linked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a C₄- C₅₀ linear or branched dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C₂-C₅o diol or polyol;

- polyesters resulting from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and an aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acid ester such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H sold by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and

- aliphatic ester acids resulting from the esterification between an aliphatic hydroxylated carboxyl acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V)-L by the Nishing Oil company.

A Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction, which is well known to a person skilled in the art. It is a reaction transforming a primary aliphatic alcohol into its β-alkylated dimer alcohol with loss of an equivalent of water. The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally include 4 to 30 and preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They are preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, oxtanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldeconic acid, heptadecanoic acid, oxtadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched.

The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid esters are advantageously obtained from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 34 carbon atoms and, better, 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and, better, 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The hydroxylated carboxylic acid esters are in particular chosen from:

a) the esters, partial or total, of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

b) the esters, partial or total, of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

c) the esters, partial or total, of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic polyacids;

d) the esters, partial or total, of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic polyacids;

e) the esters, partial or total, of C₂ to Ci₆ aliphatic polyols having reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid,

f) and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic esters of ester are advantageously chosen from:

- the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of a hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in 1 for 1 proportions (1/1 ), which is called hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate,

- the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of a hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in 1 for 2 proportions (1/2), which is called hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate,

- the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of a hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in 1 for 3 proportions (1/3), which is called hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate,

and mixtures thereof. The pasty fat(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular 1 % to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Volatile oils

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile oil.

The volatile oil can in particular be a silicone oil, a fluorinated oil or a hydrocarbonated oil.

The volatile silicone oil can in particular be chosen from the silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 °C to 102 ^<Ό, preferably having a flash point greater than 55 'Ό and less than or equal to θδ'Ό, and preferably ranging from 65 °C to 95^<€.

As volatile silicone oils that may be used, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at room temperature below 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10^~6 m²/s), and having, in particular, 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and, in particular, 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As a volatile silicone oil that may be used, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

As additional volatile fluorinated oils, mention may be made of nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

As additional volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-polar volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably used.

The additional non-polar volatile hydrocarbon oils can have a flash point ranging from 40^ to 102°C, preferably ranging from 40 °C to δδ'Ό, and preferably ranging from 40 ^<€ to 50 ^<€.

The additional volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) can in particular be chosen from the volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular:

- C₈-Ci6 branched alkanes such as C₈-Ci₆ iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls,

- linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C₁₂) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol, respectively, under the names PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as mixtures thereof, the mixture undecane-tridecane (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci₃) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the application WO2008/1 55059 of the Cognis company and mixtures thereof.

If the composition comprises it, the volatile oil content is between 1 % and 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 2% and 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of volatile oil.

Dyes

The compositions according to the invention can also include at least one dye.

A composition according to this invention can include at least one dye chosen from the water-soluble or non-water-soluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or inorganic dyes, in particular such as pigments or nacres conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

The dyes can be present in an amount of 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably 1 % to 1 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition used according to the invention.

"Pigments" should be understood as meaning white or colored inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color the resulting deposit.

As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.

The pigment might also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, of the sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the name "COVERLEAF NS" or "JS" by the CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS company and has a contrast ratio of around 30.

The dye may also comprise a pigment having a structure that can be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that sold by the MIYOSH I company under the name "PC BALL PC-LL-100 P", this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. It is also possible, preferably, to use, in a composition according to the invention, calcium and sodium borosilicate in the form of a calcium and sodium borosilicate plate coated with titanium and tin dioxide (94.25/5.25/0.5).

Among the organic pigments that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO- A-96/08537.

"Nacres", should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, in particular produced by certain mollusks in their shell or synthesized, and which have an effect on color due to optical interference.

Nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic dyes are superimposed.

Mention may also be made, as an example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the following "TIMICA", "FLAMENCO" and "DUOCHROME" nacres (mica-based) sold by the ENGELHARD company, "TIMIRON" nacres sold by the MERCK company, mica-based nacres, "PRESTIGE", sold by the ECKART company and synthetic mica-based nacres, "SUNSHINE", sold by the SUN CHEMICAL company.

The nacres may more specifically have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown and/or copper color or glint.

By way of illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of this invention, mention may be made in particular of the gold-colored nacres in particular sold by the ENGELHARD company under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronzes nacres in particular sold by the MERCK company under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the ENGELHARD company under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres in particular sold by the ENGELHARD company under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the MERCK company under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-hued nacres in particular sold by the ENGELHARD company under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the copper-glint nacres in particular sold by the ENGELHARD company under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-glint nacres in particular sold by the MERCK company under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the yellow-glint nacres in particular sold by the ENGELHARD company under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the gold-glint red-hued nacres in particular sold by the ENGELHARD company under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres in particular sold by the ENGELHARD company under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the gold-glint black nacres in particular sold by the ENGELHARD company under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres in particular sold by the MERCK company under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the silver-glint white nacres for example sold by the MERCK company under the name Xirona Silver and the green-gold and pinkish orange nacres in particular sold by the MERCK company under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and mixtures thereof.

A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.

For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic glint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromatic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, in particular of the interference type.

The metallic-glint particles that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:

- particles of at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative,

- particles comprising a single-substance or multi-substance, organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one metallic glint layer comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and

mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may, for example, be made of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term "metal derivatives" refers to compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides. By way of illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names "STARBRITE 1200 EAC^®" by the SIBERLINE company and "METALURE^®" by the ECKART company.

Mention may also be made of metal powders of copper or of alloy mixtures, such as those under reference 2844 sold by the RADIUM BRONZE company, metal pigments such as aluminum or bronze, for instance those sold under the names "ROTOSAFE 700" of the ECKART company, silica-coated aluminum particles sold under the name "VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER" of the ECKART company and metal alloy particles such as silica-coated bronze (copper and zinc alloy) sold under the name "VISIONAIRE BRIGHT NATURAL GOLD" of the ECKART company.

The particles may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those sold by the NIPPON SHEET GLASS company under the name "MICROGLASS METASHINE".

The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal coloring agents.

Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used in compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al/Si0₂/Al/Si0₂/Al, pigments having this structure being sold by the DUPONT DE NEMOURS company; Cr/MgF₂/AI/MgF₂/Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name "CHROMAFLAIR" by the FLEX company; MoS₂/Si0₂/AI/Si0₂/MoS₂; Fe₂0₃/Si0₂/Al/Si0₂/Fe₂0₃, and

Fe₂0₃/Si0₂/Fe₂0₃/Si0₂/Fe₂0₃, pigments having these structures being sold under the name "SICOPEARL" by the BASF company; MoS₂/Si0₂/mica-oxide/Si0₂/MoS₂; Fe₂0₃/Si0₂/mica-oxide/Si0₂/Fe₂0₃; Ti0₂/Si0₂/Ti0₂ and Ti0₂/Al₂0₃/Ti0₂ ; SnO/Ti0₂/Si0₂/Ti0₂/SnO; Fe₂0₃/Si0₂/Fe₂0₃ ; SnO/mica/Ti0₂/Si0₂/Ti0₂/mica/SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name " XIRONA" by the MERCK company (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be pigments with a silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure sold under the name "XIRONA MAGIC" by the MERCK company, pigments with a silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name "XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER" by the MERCK company and pigments with a silica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name "XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE" by the MERCK company. Mention may also be made of the "INFINITE COLORS" pigments of the SHISEIDO company. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the structure Fe₂0₃/Si0₂/Al/ Si0₂/Fe₂0₃ the color changes from green-gold to red-gray for Si0₂ layers from 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for Si0₂ layers from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for Si0₂ layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for Si0₂ layers from 430 to 440 nm.

Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, of those sold by the 3M company under the name "COLOR GLITTER".

Examples of liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include those sold by the CHENIX company as well as those sold under the name "HELICONE^® HC" by the WACKER company.

The liposoluble coloring agents are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 1 1 , DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, and quinoline yellow.

Fillers

A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler of organic or mineral origin.

"Filler" should be understood as meaning colorless or white solid particles of any shape, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Mineral or organic in nature, they make it possible to confer body or rigidity on the composition, and/or softness, and uniformity on the makeup. They are distinct from the dyes.

Among the fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyl-lysine, pyrogenic silica particles, optionally hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and mixtures thereof.

A composition used according to the invention may include one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular 1 % to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic additives normally used

A composition used according to the invention may also include any cosmetic ingredient normally used that may be chosen in particular from active cosmetic agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, neutralizing agents, surfactants, sunscreens, sweetening agents, vitamins, moisturizers, softeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, film-forming polymers and mixtures thereof.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will make sure to choose any additional ingredients and/or the amount of such ingredients so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition.

Applications

A composition according to the invention may more specifically be a makeup and/or skin and/or lip care composition, in particular a lip care composition, and more specifically a lipstick.

A composition according to the invention may constitute a blush, an eye shadow, a foundation, an under-eye concealer, a lipstick, a liquid lipstick such as a gloss, for example, a body makeup product, a facial or body care product or a sunscreen product.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is in solid form. By way of illustration of solid formulations, mention may in particular be made of solid lipsticks, for example.

The composition according to the invention may be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

As specified above, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide a deposit having good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of stability (and in particular stability of the brightness of the deposit on the skin or lips), and brightness and stability over time.

The brightness and stability may in particular be evaluated in vivo by means of a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0 as described in the application FR 2 829 344.

The stability over time of a cosmetic composition results from its ability to withstand mechanical or physical stresses, such as friction or stretching of the surface to which the makeup is applied.

The evaluation of stability is performed as follows: the stability is evaluated by applying the composition on the lips of a panel of seven subjects having thick and light lips, after a series of tests consisting in performing two "kisses" on a paper tissue, drinking a warm drink, then a cold drink, and eating two bites of a sandwich and an apple. A composition according to the invention preferably has a color stability, measured according to the protocol described above, of greater than or equal to 50, and preferably greater than or equal to 60.

This invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of the skin and/or lips including a step of applying at least one layer of a composition according to the invention to the skin and/or lips.

This invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic makeup and/or skin and/or lip care, in particular lip care, including a step of applying at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to the invention on the skin and/or lips.

Throughout the application, the term "including a" or "comprising a" means "including at least one" or "comprising at least" unless otherwise specified.

Throughout the description above, unless otherwise indicated, the phrase "between x and y" corresponds to an inclusive range, i.e. values x and y are included in the range.

The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the % are expressed by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions are prepared according to the usual methods for producing cosmetic compositions.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Compositions of the formulations prepared:

Preparation methods

In a skillet, ethylcellulose is added to octyldodecanol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, dextrin ester (isostearate for the composition of example 1 , and dextrin palmitate for the composition of example 2) and it is all homogenized by means of a Rayneri at 100°C to obtain a homogeneous transparent mixture.

The product resulting from the grinding of waxes present in the medium, previously homogenized at 100°C under Rayneri agitation, is then added. When the resulting mixture is homogeneous, the nacres and pigments are added to it.

The mixture thus obtained, once homogenized, is poured into a mold, cooled and removed from the mold.

Results

In the case of composition 1 according to the invention, the mold removal is performed appropriately while the comparative composition of example 1 a is too soft for this to be possible.

A hardness of 79-80 Nm^" is obtained (measured according to the protocol indicated in the description).

The composition according to the invention is applied with a satisfactory slip, in a homogeneous, non-tacky and bright deposit.

The degree of transfer onto a cup is also very low (protocol used: 1 . The lipstick is applied; 2. Wait 20 minutes ; 3. A cup is brought to the lips and the amount transferred is observed).

In the case of the comparative composition 1 a, it is not possible to measure the hardness of the composition (a stick cannot be formed).

In addition, the measurement of the brightness of the deposit is not possible because the deposit is thick and non-homogeneous.

The comparative composition also produces a tacky deposit, with a significant degree of transfer (cup).

Example 2

The composition and the lipstick are prepared according to the method described in the previous example.

The brightness and stability are evaluated in vivo by means of a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0 as described in the application FR 2 829 344.

The results are presented in the table below:

The composition according to the invention is therefore bright with a very good brightness stability.

Claims

1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- alkylcellulose;

- at least one branched dextrin ester; and

- at least one fatty alcohol ROH, R representing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon radical comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

2. Composition according to claim 1 , wherein the alkylcellulose is a C₂-C₄ aliphatic ether of cellulose, in particular ethylcellulose.

3. Composition according to either one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the branched dextrin ester is a dextrin ester, for which the dextrin has an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150, and for which the fatty acid(s) comprise(s) 50% to 100% in moles, on the basis of the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more branched saturated fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and 0% to less than 50% in moles, on the basis of the total amount of fatty acid(s), one or more other fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of saturated linear fatty acids having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, the unsaturated linear or branched fatty acids, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the saturated or unsaturated cyclic fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree of dextrin substitution by the fatty acid(s) is 1 .0 to 3.0 per glucose unit.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of branched dextrin ester is between 5% and 25% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the radical R of the fatty alcohol is a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon radical R, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of fatty alcohol is between 10% and 70% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the fatty alcohol is chosen from the group consisting of lauric alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and is preferably octyldodecanol.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of alkylcellulose is between 2% and 20% by weight of the total weight of said composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, also comprising at least one non-volatile oil, different from fatty alcohol.

11. Composition according to claim 10, wherein the non-volatile oil is chosen from the group consisting of silicone oils, phenylated silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, non-polar or polar, and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 , comprising at least one dye.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, also comprising at least one compound chosen from waxes, pasty fats, lipophilic gelling agents, fillers and mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that said composition is solid at 20 ^ and at atmospheric pressure.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, said composition being a makeup and/or lip or skin care composition, in particular a lip care composition, and more specifically a lipstick.

16. Non-therapeutic method of cosmetic makeup and/or skin and/or lip care, in particular lip care, including a step of applying at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 to the skin and/or lips.