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WO2021122638A1 - Dispositif destiné à la pulvérisation d'une composition à deux phases consistant en une phase aqueuse consistant en un ou plusieurs polyols et une phase huileuse consistant en des huiles non siliconées - Google Patents

Dispositif destiné à la pulvérisation d'une composition à deux phases consistant en une phase aqueuse consistant en un ou plusieurs polyols et une phase huileuse consistant en des huiles non siliconées Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021122638A1
WO2021122638A1 PCT/EP2020/086275 EP2020086275W WO2021122638A1 WO 2021122638 A1 WO2021122638 A1 WO 2021122638A1 EP 2020086275 W EP2020086275 W EP 2020086275W WO 2021122638 A1 WO2021122638 A1 WO 2021122638A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
phase
cosmetic
cosmetic assembly
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2020/086275
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English (en)
Inventor
Caroline SIRICHANDRA
Séverine ROSE
Amélie FRIOT-DARDERES
Cédrine JORDAN
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2021122638A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021122638A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B05—SPRAYING OR ATOMISING IN GENERAL; APPLYING FLUENT MATERIALS TO SURFACES, IN GENERAL
    • B05B—SPRAYING APPARATUS; ATOMISING APPARATUS; NOZZLES
    • B05B1/00—Nozzles, spray heads or other outlets, with or without auxiliary devices such as valves, heating means
    • B05B1/34—Nozzles, spray heads or other outlets, with or without auxiliary devices such as valves, heating means designed to influence the nature of flow of the liquid or other fluent material, e.g. to produce swirl
    • B05B1/3405—Nozzles, spray heads or other outlets, with or without auxiliary devices such as valves, heating means designed to influence the nature of flow of the liquid or other fluent material, e.g. to produce swirl to produce swirl
    • B05B1/341—Nozzles, spray heads or other outlets, with or without auxiliary devices such as valves, heating means designed to influence the nature of flow of the liquid or other fluent material, e.g. to produce swirl to produce swirl before discharging the liquid or other fluent material, e.g. in a swirl chamber upstream the spray outlet
    • B05B1/3421—Nozzles, spray heads or other outlets, with or without auxiliary devices such as valves, heating means designed to influence the nature of flow of the liquid or other fluent material, e.g. to produce swirl to produce swirl before discharging the liquid or other fluent material, e.g. in a swirl chamber upstream the spray outlet with channels emerging substantially tangentially in the swirl chamber
    • B05B1/3431—Nozzles, spray heads or other outlets, with or without auxiliary devices such as valves, heating means designed to influence the nature of flow of the liquid or other fluent material, e.g. to produce swirl to produce swirl before discharging the liquid or other fluent material, e.g. in a swirl chamber upstream the spray outlet with channels emerging substantially tangentially in the swirl chamber the channels being formed at the interface of cooperating elements, e.g. by means of grooves
    • B05B1/3436—Nozzles, spray heads or other outlets, with or without auxiliary devices such as valves, heating means designed to influence the nature of flow of the liquid or other fluent material, e.g. to produce swirl to produce swirl before discharging the liquid or other fluent material, e.g. in a swirl chamber upstream the spray outlet with channels emerging substantially tangentially in the swirl chamber the channels being formed at the interface of cooperating elements, e.g. by means of grooves the interface being a plane perpendicular to the outlet axis
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B05—SPRAYING OR ATOMISING IN GENERAL; APPLYING FLUENT MATERIALS TO SURFACES, IN GENERAL
    • B05B—SPRAYING APPARATUS; ATOMISING APPARATUS; NOZZLES
    • B05B11/00—Single-unit hand-held apparatus in which flow of contents is produced by the muscular force of the operator at the moment of use
    • B05B11/01—Single-unit hand-held apparatus in which flow of contents is produced by the muscular force of the operator at the moment of use characterised by the means producing the flow
    • B05B11/10—Pump arrangements for transferring the contents from the container to a pump chamber by a sucking effect and forcing the contents out through the dispensing nozzle
    • B05B11/1001—Piston pumps
    • B05B11/1023—Piston pumps having an outlet valve opened by deformation or displacement of the piston relative to its actuating stem
    • B05B11/1025—Piston pumps having an outlet valve opened by deformation or displacement of the piston relative to its actuating stem a spring urging the outlet valve in its closed position

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising a two-phase composition contained inside a reservoir comprising an aqueous phase comprising one or more polyols chosen from diols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, with the exclusion of 1,3-butylene glycol, polyols comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups and their mixtures, and an oily phase comprising one or more non-silicone oils, and to a spray device specific for said composition.
  • Another subject matter of the invention is a cosmetic method for the treatment and/or care of keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising the agitation of the cosmetic assembly and then its application to the surface of said keratin materials.
  • Another subject matter of the invention is the use of said assembly for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular for moisturizing keratin materials.
  • the skin which is a protective and exchange barrier with the environment, is both strong and fragile, it may lose its suppleness and its capacity to retain water decreases, then causing skin dryness.
  • Cosmetic compositions can be provided in the form of a "two-phase composition", that is to say a composition constituted of two distinct phases, in particular of a hydrophilic aqueous phase and of an oily phase. They differ from emulsions in that, at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified one in the other. Thus, the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface, whereas, for emulsions, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets and there are thus multiple interfaces.
  • compositions can be presented in a pot or in a pump-action spray.
  • the user may encounter difficulties during the application of these compositions on the skin in order to obtain a homogeneous distribution of the composition on the skin and a rapid evaporation of the composition, preventing the wet effect on the skin after application of the composition.
  • these disadvantages may prevent the on-the-move use of the product at any time during the day and lead to problems of hygiene when the user has to spread the composition with their fingers.
  • a cosmetic product comprising a cosmetic, in particular moisturizing, composition in the form of a two-phase composition exhibiting good cosmetic properties, such as a good moisturizing efficacy, good sensory properties, such as the absence of tackiness after application of the composition, while being easily applied to keratin materials, such as the skin, and making it possible to obtain a distribution of the composition over keratin materials which is regarded as homogeneous by the user.
  • a subject matter of the present invention is a cosmetic assembly comprising: i) a two-phase composition contained inside a reservoir comprising: a) an aqueous phase comprising one or more polyols chosen from diols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, with the exclusion of 1,3-butylene glycol, polyols comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups and their mixtures, in which, when they are present in the composition, the polyol(s) comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups are present in a content strictly of less than 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition, and in which, when they are present in the composition, the diol(s) comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, with the exclusion of 1,3 -butylene glycol, are present in a content strictly of less than 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition, and b) an oily phase comprising one or more non-silicone oils, in which the non
  • a spray nozzle (11) placed in position so as to form a path for dispensing said composition between the dispensing pump (4) and a vortex assembly
  • a vortex assembly comprising a vortex chamber (20) provided with a dispensing orifice (21) and also at least one channel (22) for feeding said chamber, said vortex chamber being delimited by a lateral surface (23) exhibiting a frustoconical geometry with respect to which the feed channel(s) (22) extend in a transverse plane.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the treatment and/or care of keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising the agitation of a cosmetic assembly as defined above and then its application to the surface of said keratin materials.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic assembly as defined above for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular for moisturizing the keratin materials, preferably the skin.
  • a cosmetic assembly comprising a two-phase composition as defined above with a specific spray device makes it possible to obtain, after spraying the two-phase composition according to the invention over the skin, in particular over the face, a very fine and homogeneous mist which is uniformly distributed over the skin and which easily evaporates after application (i.e. no wet effect on the skin).
  • the user does not need to spread the composition over the skin with their fingers, which makes it possible to ensure an easy, on-the-move and hygienic application of the product.
  • the two-phase composition according to the invention exhibits good sensory properties, in particular an absence of tackiness and of greasy feeling during application, while having a good sensation of moisturizing of the skin after application (i.e. freshness on application).
  • the spray device in combination with the two-phase composition generates little noise during spraying, which is appreciated by the users.
  • homogeneous means a uniform distribution of the composition over the keratin materials of the user.
  • two-phase composition or two-phase denotes a composition which is constituted of two distinct phases, in this case of an aqueous phase and of an oily phase, and which requires prior agitation in order to form an emulsion before application.
  • the " two-phase composition " or two-phase differ from emulsions in that, at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified one in the other.
  • the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface, whereas, for emulsions, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets and there are thus multiple interfaces.
  • the aqueous phase and oily phase are distinct and nonemulsified before agitation.
  • keratin materials according to the invention is understood to mean the skin of the body, face and/or area around the eyes, the lips, the nails, the mucus membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the body hairs, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other cutaneous zone of the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, the hair and/or the skin.
  • the keratin materials according to the invention are the skin.
  • the skin is understood to mean all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, indeed more preferably still the skin of the face, in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin and area around the eyes.
  • All the compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic compositions.
  • Cosmetic is understood to mean a composition compatible with the skin, the mucus membranes and the superficial body growths.
  • the cosmetic assembly according to the invention is a cosmetic assembly for the treatment of keratin materials, such as the skin.
  • the two-phase composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferentially a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin materials, such as the skin.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
  • aqueous phase is understood to mean a phase comprising water and generally any molecule in the state dissolved in the water in the composition.
  • the aqueous phase is preferably an aqueous solution.
  • the aqueous phase according to the invention comprises water.
  • the water is present at a content of at least 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the aqueous phase, preferably at least 60% by weight, more preferentially at least 65% by weight and better still at least 70% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise water in a content of greater than or equal to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
  • the composition comprises water in a total amount of between 30% and 90% by weight, better still of between 40% and 85% by weight and even better still of between 50% and 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
  • the concentration of the aqueous phase preferably varies from 60% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 95% by weight and more preferentially from 75% to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
  • the aqueous phase comprises one or more polyols chosen from diols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, with the exclusion of 1,3-butylene glycol, polyols comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups and their mixtures, [0036]
  • polyol within the meaning of the present invention, is understood to mean an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl (-OH) groups carried by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated.
  • the aqueous phase comprises one or more polyols comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups.
  • polyol comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups is understood to mean a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and carrying at least three hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols used in the present invention can exhibit an average molecular weight of less than or equal to 1000 g/mol and preferably of between 85 and 500 g/mol.
  • the polyol comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups can be a natural or synthetic polyol.
  • the polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
  • the polyol(s) comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups can be chosen from glycerol and derivatives of the latter, and glycols comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups and derivatives of the latter.
  • the polyol(s) comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups can be chosen from glycerol, diglycerol, sugars, such as sorbitol, and their mixtures.
  • the polyol comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups is glycerol.
  • the polyol(s) comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups are present in a content strictly of less than 20% by weight, more preferentially of less than or equal to 15% by weight, more preferentially still of less than or equal to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
  • the two-phase composition can comprise one or more polyols comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups in a content ranging from 2% to 19% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
  • the aqueous phase comprises one or more polyols comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups in a content ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, better still from 10% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • Diol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms:
  • the two-phase composition comprises one or more diols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, with the exclusion of 1,3 -butylene glycol.
  • the diol(s) comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms are chosen from propane- 1,2-diol, propane- 1,3 -diol, pentane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol and their mixtures.
  • the diol(s) comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms are chosen from propane- 1,3 -diol, propane- 1,2-diol, pentylene glycol and their mixtures, better still propane-1, 3-diol.
  • the aqueous phase comprises a mixture of glycerol and of propane-1, 3-diol.
  • the diol(s) comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, with the exclusion of 1,3-butylene glycol, are present in a content strictly of less than 10% by weight, more preferentially of less than or equal to 8% by weight, more preferentially still of less than or equal to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
  • the aqueous phase can comprise one or more diols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, with the exclusion of 1,3 -butylene glycol, in a content ranging from 2% to 12% by weight, preferably ranging from 3% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more diols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms in a content ranging from 2% to 9% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 3% to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two- phase composition.
  • the aqueous phase can also comprise a primary alcohol, that is to say an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • a primary alcohol that is to say an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the aqueous phase comprises ethanol.
  • the primary alcohol(s) can be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • the composition is devoid of primary alcohol.
  • the aqueous phase can comprise one or more moisturizing active agents chosen from urea, hydroxyethylurea, hyaluronic acid, glycine, b-alanine, taurine, trimethylglycine and their mixtures.
  • Trimethylglycine also known as "glycine betaine” or "betaine” is a quaternary amino acid. At neutral pH, the compound exists in the form of a zwitterionic compound, forming a salt between the quaternary ammonium functional group and the carboxyl functional group of the molecule. In the presence of strong acids, it will form acid addition salts, for example hydrochloride. The compound was originally isolated from sugar beet.
  • the moisturizing active agent is trimethylglycine.
  • the composition comprises trimethylglycine as moisturizing active agent.
  • the aqueous phase according to the invention can comprise one or more moisturizing active agents present in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 6% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • the two-phase composition according to the invention can comprise one or more moisturizing active agents present in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 6% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase.
  • the oily phase generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which render said phase water-immiscible. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25°C).
  • the concentration of the oily phase preferably varies from 5% to 40% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight, even better still from 10% to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
  • the oily phase comprises one or more non-silicone oils.
  • the non-silicone oil(s) has/have a molar mass of greater than or equal to 245 g/mol, preferably of greater than or equal to 350 g/mol.
  • the oily phase comprises, as non-silicone oils, one or more volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils.
  • oil is understood to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 5 Pa).
  • the oil can be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • volatile oil is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a nonzero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • nonvolatile oil is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functional groups.
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils of: - volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular Cx-Cir > isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched Cx-Cir > esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures.
  • Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell, can also be used;
  • linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 26 carbon atoms, such as undecane or tridecane.
  • linear alkanes suitable for the invention of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (Cs), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (C12), n- tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and their mixtures.
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils of:
  • - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or else wheat germ oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkinseed oil, cucumber oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by
  • - synthetic esters in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with Ri + R 2 3 10, such as, for example, PurCellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Cn to C 15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate;
  • hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, or squalane;
  • - fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;
  • - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid
  • the non-silicone oil(s) are chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 26 carbon atoms; vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as apricot kernel oil or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as squalane; fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol; and their mixtures.
  • volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 26 carbon atoms
  • vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as apricot kernel oil or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as squalane
  • fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol
  • the non-silicone oil(s) are chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 26 carbon atoms; vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as apricot kernel oil or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides; fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol; and their mixtures.
  • the non-silicone oil(s) are present in a content of at least 85% by weight, with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably at least 90% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the two-phase composition according to the invention can comprise one or more non-silicone oils in a content ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight and even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
  • the composition according to the invention can comprise less than 2% by weight of silicone oils, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% by weight of silicone oils, with respect to the total weight of the composition. More preferentially, the two-phase composition is devoid of silicone oils.
  • silicon oil is understood to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-0 groups.
  • silicone oils for example, of volatile silicone oils, such as cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; linear silicones, such as heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane or dodecamethylpentasiloxane; nonvolatile silicone oils, such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and phenylated polymethylsiloxanes, such as phenyl trimethicones, pheny
  • PDMS polymethylsiloxa
  • composition according to the invention i.e aqueous phase and oily phase, can also in addition comprise additional cosmetic and dermatological active agents.
  • composition according to the invention i.e. aqueous phase and oily phase
  • cosmetic adjuvants which will be found in either phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, such as opacifiers, preserving agents, sunscreens, fillers, suspending agents, sequestrants, fragrances, colorants or any other ingredient normally used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • the two-phase composition according to the invention does not comprise a surfactant.
  • the two-phase composition according to the invention comprises the aqueous phase and the oily phase in a respective ratio by weight ranging from 60:40 to 95:5, preferably ranging from 75:25 to 90:10, preferably in the vicinity of 90:10.
  • the two-phase composition according to the invention is liquid.
  • liquid is understood to mean that the composition is sufficiently fluid to be agitated and/or to be able to be sprayed.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a "physiologically acceptable medium".
  • physiologically acceptable medium is understood to mean a medium which is suitable for the topical administration of a composition and which is compatible with all human keratin materials, such as the skin, the lips, the nails, the mucus membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other cutaneous zone of the body.
  • a physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium without odor or unpleasant appearance and which is entirely compatible with the topical administration route.
  • composition according to the invention is suitable for topical administration, that is to say for administration by application at the surface of the keratin material under consideration, such as the skin under consideration.
  • compositions are in particular intended for topical application to the face and/or the body.
  • the two-phase composition according to the invention is contained in a device as described below which makes possible its application, in particular by spraying, to the skin.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic assembly as defined above for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular for moisturizing the keratin materials, preferably the skin.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the treatment and/or care of keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising the agitation of a cosmetic assembly as defined above and then its application to the surface of said keratin materials. Agitation is typically carried out manually. The spraying using the spray device is typically carried out manually.
  • the method for treatment and/or care of keratin materials is a method for moisturizing the keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • the present invention also relates to a kit comprising: i) a composition comprising an aqueous phase comprising one or more polyols chosen from diols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, with the exclusion of 1,3-butylene glycol, polyols comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups and their mixtures, in which, when they are present in the composition, the polyol(s) comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups are present in a content strictly of less than 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition comprising it(s), and in which, when they are present in the composition, the diol(s) comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, with the exclusion of 1,3 -butylene glycol, are present in a content strictly of less than 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition comprising it(s), and ii) a composition comprising, preferably consisting of, an oily phase comprising one or more non-
  • compositions i) and ii) of the kit according to the invention are preferably identical to the aqueous phase a) and the oily phase b) of the composition as described above, respectively.
  • each composition i) and ii) is liquid.
  • Another subject matter of the present invention is a cosmetic method for the treatment and/or care of keratin materials, preferably of the skin, in particular for moisturizing the keratin materials, comprising the preparation of a two-phase composition by mixing a composition i) with a composition ii) of the kit according to the invention, the incorporation of the two-phase composition in the spray device of the kit according to the invention, the agitation of the spray device and then its application to the surface of said keratin materials.
  • a subject matter of the invention is a cosmetic assembly comprising: i) a two-phase composition as described above contained inside a reservoir and ii) a device for spraying said composition comprising a container containing said composition equipped with a spray mechanism comprising:
  • a spray nozzle placed in position so as to form a path for dispensing said composition between the dispensing pump and a vortex assembly
  • a vortex assembly comprising a vortex chamber provided with a dispensing orifice and also at least one channel for feeding said chamber, said vortex chamber is delimited by a lateral surface exhibiting a frustoconical geometry with respect to which the feed channel(s) extends/extend in a transverse plane.
  • Figure 1 is a partial view in longitudinal section of a container equipped with a spray device according to the invention
  • FIG 2 is a partial view in longitudinal section of the pushbutton of figure 1
  • Figure 3 is a partial view in longitudinal section of a dispensing pump according to the invention.
  • the spray device 1 represented in figure 1 comprises a container 2 comprising the two-phase composition as defined above.
  • the spray device also comprises a pushbutton 3 which makes it possible for the user, by pressing on top, to trigger the spraying of the two-phase composition according to the invention over the keratin materials, such as the skin.
  • the spray device is equipped with a spray mechanism comprising a dispensing pump 4.
  • the dispensing pump 4 exhibits a tubular body 5.
  • the dispensing pump 4 comprises a collar 7 placed in position on the container 2 comprising the two-phase composition as described above and a tubular body 5 corresponding to the means for withdrawal of the two-phase composition inside the container 2.
  • the tubular body 5 of this dispensing pump formed of two successive shells of decreasing diameters, carries a ball inlet valve 5a and its lower orifice 5b is connected to a pick-up tube 5c.
  • the piston 6 carries a sliding sleeve 6b which serves both as leaktight packing and as outlet valve shutter and which a spring returns. At rest, the piston 6, which a spring moves back to the top, additionally gives leaktightness to the collar 7 via an annular seal 8. However, a vent hole 5e passes through the wall of the body 5 in its upper part, above the sleeve 6b.
  • the collar opens out into a mating flange 7a which will be placed in position on the container 2.
  • the dispensing pump 4 is preferably a manually actuated pump. Thus, during the manual displacement of the pushbutton, the dispensing pump is actuated in order to feed the tubular body 5 of the pump with two-phase composition according to the invention.
  • the mounting well 9 of the pushbutton 3 surrounds the piston 6 of the dispensing pump 4.
  • the pushbutton 3 also comprises an upper zone 10 which makes it possible for the user to exert pressure with a digit on said pushbutton in order to be able to displace it axially.
  • the spray mechanism also comprises a spray nozzle 11.
  • This spray nozzle 11 is placed in position so as to form a path for dispensing the composition according to the invention between the dispensing pump 4 and a vortex assembly.
  • the spray nozzle 11 is placed in position in the pushbutton 3.
  • the pushbutton 3 is also provided with an anvil 12 around which the the spray nozzle 11 is placed in position.
  • the spray nozzle 11 exhibits a cylindrical lateral wall 13 of revolution which is closed to the front by a proximal wall 14.
  • An impression of the vortex assembly is formed as a hollow in the proximal wall 14 and the anvil 12 exhibits a flat distal wall 15 against which the proximal wall 14 of the nozzle 11 is supported in order to delimit, between them, the vortex assembly.
  • the vortex assembly comprises a vortex chamber 20 provided with a dispensing orifice 21 and also at least one channel 22 for feeding said chamber.
  • the vortex chamber 20 is delimited by a lateral surface 23 exhibiting a frustoconical geometry which extends along a dispensing axis D, the feed channels 22 extending along a plane transversal with respect to said dispensing axis.
  • the terms of positioning in space are defined with respect to the dispensing axis D.
  • the frustoconical geometry is of revolution around the dispensing axis D, an internal dimension of said geometry then corresponding to a diameter.
  • the lateral surface 23 of the vortex chamber 20 is convergent from an upstream end 24, in which the downstream end of the feed channel(s) 22 emerges tangentially, to a downstream opening 25 for feeding the dispensing orifice 21.
  • the dispensing orifice 21 exhibits an outlet dimension which is equal to the internal dimension of the downstream opening 25 for feeding the dispensing orifice.
  • the use of such a spray nozzle with the two-phase composition according to the invention makes possible a uniform spatial distribution of the droplets in suspension in the air, the size of the droplets being small and uniform.
  • the composition ejected from the spray device exhibits the appearance of a plume of smoke with droplet sizes of between 10 pm and 60 pm with a mean of 35 pm, this being the case whatever the pressure force exerted by the user on the pushbutton.
  • the vortex assembly exhibits two channels 22 for feeding the vortex chamber 20, said channels being positioned symmetrically with respect to the dispensing axis D. More than two feed channels 22 may be provided.
  • the downstream opening 25 of the vortex chamber is surmounted by a dispensing orifice 21 exhibiting a cylindrical geometry of revolution around the dispensing axis D, the internal dimension of said orifice being equal to the internal dimension of the downstream opening 25.
  • the internal dimension of the downstream opening 25 is low with respect to the internal dimension of the upstream end 24.
  • the internal dimension of the downstream opening 25 is less than 50% of the internal dimension of the upstream end 24.
  • the internal dimension of the downstream opening 25 is between 20% and 40% of the internal dimension of the upstream end 24.
  • the axial dimension of the vortex chamber 20 is greater than or equal to the internal dimension of the upstream end 24.
  • the axial dimension of the vortex chamber 20 is greater than or equal to 80% of the internal dimension of the upstream end 24.
  • the axial dimension of the vortex chamber 20 is between 90% and 200% of the internal dimension of the upstream end 24.
  • the internal dimension of the upstream end 24 is 0.6 mm
  • the internal dimension of the downstream end 25 is less than or equal to 0.24 mm
  • the axial dimension of the vortex chamber 20 is equal to 0.55 mm
  • the axial dimension of the dispensing orifice 21 is less than 0.10 mm.
  • the spray device is produced by molding, for example starting from different thermoplastic materials.
  • the container 2 can be made of polyolefin and the spray nozzle can be made of cyclic olefin copolymer (COC), of poly(oxymethylene) or of poly(butylene terephthalate).
  • COC cyclic olefin copolymer
  • the user presses on the pushbutton, triggering a spraying of the two-phase composition according to the invention over the keratin materials, such as the skin.
  • the ejected composition exhibits the appearance of a very fine and very homogeneous mist.
  • the quality of the mist obtained is characterized by its spray angle, by its homogeneity and by the fineness in the size of the droplets.
  • the spray device according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a good mist quality in terms of homogeneity, of fineness in the size of the droplets and of spray angle of the mist.
  • the spray device generates little noise during use, which is appreciated by the users.
  • the spray device is not limited to the implementational examples which have just been described. [00142] The examples which follow serve to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are given as percentages by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the temperature is given in degrees Celsius and corresponds to ambient temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure at sea level, unless otherwise indicated.
  • Composition A is prepared according to the process below:
  • phase A i.e. aqueous phase
  • a stirrer for example a Rayneri Turbotest from VMI
  • VMI Rayneri Turbotest
  • phase B (i.e. oily phase) is subsequently prepared
  • phase A - 36.5 g of phase A are weighed out into a beaker, to which 4.4 g of phase B are added, in order to obtain a two-phase composition (40 g of two-phase composition in a 50 ml spray device).
  • compositions (g/100 g):
  • composition A 40 g are introduced into a 50 ml spray device No. 1, comprising the SP22 Panache Pulse spray pump sold by Albea.
  • composition A 40 g are introduced into a 50 ml spray device No. 2, comprising a
  • the spray device No. 2 does not comprise a vortex chamber being delimited by a lateral surface exhibiting a frustoconical geometry with respect to which the feed channel(s) extend in a transverse plane.
  • the spray device No. 1 and the spray device No. 2 are agitated manually before measuring the spray angle of the mist according to the measurement method described below.
  • the perception of the compositions on the skin was also evaluated according to the method described below.
  • the spray angle of the mist is measured from video acquisitions by a high-speed camera.
  • a setup comprising a high-speed camera, powerful lighting, a dark (preferably black) background and a support accommodating the spray device was installed.
  • a high-speed camera of i-Speed 3 reference sold by iX Cameras was used, at 500 images per second, and focused on the end of the nozzle of the spray device.
  • a black-colored background was used, in order for the illuminated droplets to be well displayed.
  • a support accommodating the spray device was used.
  • the size of this support corresponds to the size of the flasks, in order to stabilize their position during the manual actuation of the pushbutton of the spray device.
  • compositions are mixed manually before the compositions are sprayed.
  • files are made use of by the "i- Speed Suite” software. This software makes it possible to measure the spray angle.
  • the angle is measured during the manual actuation of the pushbutton of the spray device, when the spray device has stabilized. Each angle measurement is carried out three times, during three manual actuations of the pushbutton of the spray device, making it possible to establish a mean of the value of the spray angle.
  • test composition is mixed manually before the composition is sprayed over the faces of the 15 people.
  • each composition is applied one after the other to the faces of the participants in order to evaluate the perception of each composition on the skin. Between each application of composition, the faces of the participants are cleaned using a paper cloth.
  • compositions are regarded as acceptable from an esthetic viewpoint if they have a measurement of spray angle of the mist of greater than or equal to 60° and a good perception on the skin (no feeling of wet skin and of nonhomogeneous deposition on the skin).
  • Spray device No. 1 exhibits a spray angle of the mist of greater than 60°, in comparison with spray device No. 2.
  • the cosmetic assembly according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a very good nebulization and a good mist quality, that is to say a homogeneous and fine mist with a fine droplet size.
  • the comparative cosmetic assembly results in a mist being obtained which is less homogeneous than with spray device No. 1 and with a larger droplet size.
  • compositions (g/100 g)
  • composition is introduced into a 50 ml spray device (comprising 40 g of formula); the spray device used is the SP22 Panache Pulse spray pump sold by Albea. [00177] The spray angle was measured according to the measurement method described in example 1.
  • compositions are regarded as acceptable from an esthetic viewpoint if they have a measurement of spray angle of the mist of greater than or equal to 60° and the absence of a final unidirectional spurt.
  • compositions B and F according to the invention having a content of polyols comprising at least three hydroxyl functional groups of strictly less than 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition, exhibit a spray angle of the mist of greater than 60° and the absence of a final unidirectional spurt.
  • the mist obtained from these comparative compositions is nonhomogeneous and the feeling of deposition of the composition is nonhomogeneous on the skin; they are thus not acceptable from an esthetic viewpoint.
  • compositions (g/100 g)
  • compositions are introduced into a 50 ml spray device (comprising 40 g of formula); the spray device used is the SP22 Panache Pulse spray pump sold by Albea.
  • compositions are regarded as acceptable from an esthetic viewpoint if they have a measurement of spray angle of the mist of greater than or equal to 60° and the absence of a final unidirectional spurt.
  • compositions J and K according to the invention having a content of diols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms strictly of less than 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the two-phase composition, exhibit a spray angle of the mist of greater than or equal to 60° and the absence of a final unidirectional spurt.
  • compositions (g/100 g)
  • compositions are introduced into a 50 ml spray device (comprising 40 g of formula); the spray device used is the SP22 Panache Pulse spray pump sold by Albea.
  • the quality of the mist obtained by actuating the spray device is graded by a panel of five people.
  • the spray device comprising a cosmetic composition is actuated in front of the observers and each observer grades the quality of the mist obtained according to two criteria: the visual appearance of the mist and the noise generated during the spraying.
  • the gradings are carried out on a scale from 1 to 5. A mean is calculated for each composition evaluated.
  • a cosmetic assembly constituted of a spray device comprising a two-phase composition having a grade for the appearance of the mist equal to 5/5 exhibits a fine mist having a good esthetic appearance.
  • a cosmetic assembly constituted of a spray device comprising a two-phase composition having a grade for the noise generated during the spraying equal to 1/5 exhibits noisy spraying unacceptable from an esthetic viewpoint.
  • a cosmetic assembly constituted of a spray device comprising a two-phase composition having a grade for the appearance of the mist of less than or equal to 3.5 and also a grade for the noise generated during the spraying of less than or equal to 2 is regarded as unacceptable from an esthetic viewpoint.
  • the cosmetic assemblies constituted of a spray device and of compositions M to P according to the invention exhibit a grade for the appearance of the mist of greater than or equal to 3.5 and a grade for the noise generated during the spraying of greater than 2.
  • the cosmetic assemblies constituted of compositions M to P comprising non-silicone oils having a molar mass of greater than or equal to 245 g/mol exhibit a fine mist having a good esthetic appearance and silent spraying.
  • the cosmetic assemblies constituted of a spray device and of comparative compositions Q to S exhibit a grade for the appearance of the mist of less than or equal to 3.5 and a grade for the noise generated during the spraying of less than 2.
  • the cosmetic assemblies constituted of compositions Q to S comprising non-silicone oils having a molar mass of less than or equal to 245 g/mol exhibit a mist with large droplets and noisy spraying.
  • Example 5 Example of moisturizing care compositions
  • compositions (g/100 g)
  • compositions T to V according to the invention are introduced into a 50 ml spray device (comprising 40 g of formula); the spray device used is the SP22 Panache Pulse spray pump sold by Albea.
  • compositions are subsequently mixed and then sprayed over the face.
  • compositions T to V according to the invention confer a good feeling of moisturizing of the skin with an absence of tackiness and an absence of greasy feeling during application.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un ensemble cosmétique consistant en une composition à deux phases contenue à l'intérieur d'un réservoir consistant en une phase aqueuse consistant en un ou plusieurs polyols choisis parmi les diols consistant en 2 à 6 atomes de carbone, à l'exclusion du 1,3-butylène glycol, des polyols consistant en au moins trois groupes fonctionnels hydroxyle et leurs mélanges, et une phase huileuse consistant en une ou plusieurs huiles non siliconées et un dispositif de pulvérisation spécifique destiné à ladite composition.
PCT/EP2020/086275 2019-12-20 2020-12-15 Dispositif destiné à la pulvérisation d'une composition à deux phases consistant en une phase aqueuse consistant en un ou plusieurs polyols et une phase huileuse consistant en des huiles non siliconées Ceased WO2021122638A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1915312 2019-12-20
FR1915312A FR3104949B1 (fr) 2019-12-20 2019-12-20 Dispositif de pulverisation d’une composition biphase comprenant une phase aqueuse comprenant un ou des polyols et une phase huileuse comprenant des huiles non siliconees

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WO2021122638A1 true WO2021122638A1 (fr) 2021-06-24

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN118338883A (zh) * 2021-12-17 2024-07-12 拜尔斯道夫股份有限公司 两相卸妆液

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2698854A1 (fr) * 1992-12-04 1994-06-10 Oreal Bouton-poussoir à buse de pulvérisation destiné à être monté sur un distributeur et distributeur équipé d'un tel bouton-poussoir.
FR2718372A1 (fr) 1994-04-08 1995-10-13 Sofab Dispensateur de produits fluides.
FR2952360A1 (fr) 2009-11-06 2011-05-13 Rexam Dispensing Sys Bouton poussoir pour un systeme de distribution d'un produit sous pression
EP3025762A1 (fr) * 2012-04-27 2016-06-01 Unilever PLC, a company registered in England and Wales under company no. 41424 of Composition de spray topique et système permettant d'administrer cette dernière
US20190008731A1 (en) * 2015-12-29 2019-01-10 L'oreal Composition comprising photonic particles, at least one absorber and at least one surfactant
WO2019107230A1 (fr) * 2017-11-28 2019-06-06 L'oreal Composition de soin solaire biphase
WO2019168193A1 (fr) * 2018-03-01 2019-09-06 L'oreal Composition pulvérisable

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3038514B1 (fr) * 2015-07-07 2018-06-29 Laboratoires M&L Composition cosmetique transparente biphase

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2698854A1 (fr) * 1992-12-04 1994-06-10 Oreal Bouton-poussoir à buse de pulvérisation destiné à être monté sur un distributeur et distributeur équipé d'un tel bouton-poussoir.
FR2718372A1 (fr) 1994-04-08 1995-10-13 Sofab Dispensateur de produits fluides.
FR2952360A1 (fr) 2009-11-06 2011-05-13 Rexam Dispensing Sys Bouton poussoir pour un systeme de distribution d'un produit sous pression
EP3025762A1 (fr) * 2012-04-27 2016-06-01 Unilever PLC, a company registered in England and Wales under company no. 41424 of Composition de spray topique et système permettant d'administrer cette dernière
US20190008731A1 (en) * 2015-12-29 2019-01-10 L'oreal Composition comprising photonic particles, at least one absorber and at least one surfactant
WO2019107230A1 (fr) * 2017-11-28 2019-06-06 L'oreal Composition de soin solaire biphase
WO2019168193A1 (fr) * 2018-03-01 2019-09-06 L'oreal Composition pulvérisable

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