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WO2020239402A1 - Émulsion h/e comprenant du scléroglucane et des pigments d'oxyde de fer - Google Patents

Émulsion h/e comprenant du scléroglucane et des pigments d'oxyde de fer Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020239402A1
WO2020239402A1 PCT/EP2020/062969 EP2020062969W WO2020239402A1 WO 2020239402 A1 WO2020239402 A1 WO 2020239402A1 EP 2020062969 W EP2020062969 W EP 2020062969W WO 2020239402 A1 WO2020239402 A1 WO 2020239402A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
emulsion
weight
emulsifiers
emulsions according
iron oxide
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2020/062969
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Keti Piradashvili
Thomas Raschke
Lisa Peschke
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Priority to EP20725689.2A priority Critical patent/EP3962434A1/fr
Publication of WO2020239402A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020239402A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing scleroglucan and iron oxide pigments.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems consisting of two liquids that are immiscible with one another or only to a limited extent, which are usually referred to as phases and in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other liquid in the form of very fine droplets. Externally and with the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.
  • the two liquids are water and oil and if oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk).
  • O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character of an O / W emulsion is shaped by the water.
  • W / O emulsion water-in-oil emulsion, e.g. butter
  • so-called emulsifiers are added to the emulsions.
  • Emulsifiers are usually molecules with a polar, hydrophilic structural element and a non-polar, lipophilic structural element.
  • a so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20) is assigned to each emulsifier, which indicates whether the water or oil solubility is preferred. Numbers under 8 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers over 8 indicate water-soluble, hydrophilic emulsifiers.
  • the water phase is combined with the lipid phase (oil phase) with stirring, the droplets of the inner phase of the emulsion having to be crushed to a size of less than 10 ⁇ m so that the emulsion becomes stable.
  • Iron oxide pigments are a group of pigments based on the element iron. They are approved as food additives under the E number 172.
  • Iron oxide yellow is the name for Feö (OH), in the Color Index under C.I. Pigment Yellow 42 listed.
  • the pigment is inexpensive, has good hiding power and excellent wet fastness. In contrast, the color is cloudy.
  • iron oxide yellow is dehydrated to Fe2 ⁇ 3
  • Iron oxide red is the name for Fe2 ⁇ 3, in the Color Index under C.I. Pigment Red 101 listed. Like iron oxide yellow, iron oxide red has good coverage, is inexpensive and highly weatherproof, but also shows the typical cloudy color. Depending on the particle size, iron oxide red pigments can be set to have a very yellowish cast (small particle size) to a very bluish cast (coarse particles).
  • Iron oxide black is listed in the Color Index under Cl Pigment Black 11. Iron oxide black has a low color strength compared to carbon black and is ferromagnetic. The chemical formula is often given as Fe 3 ⁇ 4, in reality there is a mixed crystal of Fe2 ⁇ 3 and Feö with an inverse spinel structure. Additional black pigments are obtained by doping with chromium, copper or manganese. The pure iron oxide black pigments have good temperature resistance, but are oxidized by atmospheric oxygen at around 180 ° C, so that the color shifts from brown to red. If necessary, even longer storage at over 80 ° C can lead to color changes. Transparent iron oxide pigments are obtained by very strong fine grinding of iron oxide yellow or iron oxide red. They are labeled with the same color indices as the raw materials
  • Iron oxide brown usually does not designate a defined pigment, but a mixture of iron oxide yellow, red and black
  • O / W emulsions with hydrophilic emulsifiers (emulsifiers with an HLB value of greater than / equal to 8)
  • the problem often arises that when predominantly medium-polar to polar lipids are used in the oil phase (ie lipids with an interface chens tension against water of less than 30 mN / m) an undesirable phase reversal can take place.
  • O / W emulsions tend to reverse phase during storage, i.e. H. the preparations are often not particularly stable on storage, especially if they additionally contain one or more iron oxide pigments.
  • the object is surprisingly achieved by cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions (O / W emulsions) containing, in addition to a water phase, one or more oil phases dispersed therein as well
  • Scleroglucan is released into the surrounding medium as a microbial exopolysaccharide by fungal species of the genus Sclerotium (Basidiomycota, Agariomycetes). Sclerotium delphinii, for example, is an important pest of plants. Scleroglucan is also known as Sclerotium gum mi (INCI: Sclerotium Gum).
  • Scleroglucan is a (1—>3;1—> 6) - ⁇ -D-glucan. Its mean molar mass is about 5.7 * 10 6 g / mol, its average degree of polymerization about 35,000.
  • Scleroglucan consists of a linear (1—> 3) - ⁇ -D-glucan chain (O d HioO d OQHIOOd) ⁇ , on which statistically every third glucose unit with a single (1—> 6) - ⁇ -D- Glcp residue is branched.
  • Scleroglucan is readily soluble in water and can be used as a thickener.
  • the use of scleroglucan in cosmetic emulsions is known per se to the person skilled in the art, but the prior art could not point the way to the present invention.
  • DE 10 2014 015 554 discloses the use of scleroglucan in UV filters containing cosmetic preparations to reduce the contamination and / or discoloration of textiles caused by the UV filters in the preparation.
  • EP 1 132 076 describes thickened hair compositions with a content of scleroglucan.
  • the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of scleroglucan in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.01 and 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably between 0, 1 and 1, 0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the emulsion, is.
  • the emulsion contains one or more oil-in-water emulsifiers (O / W emulsifiers) in a total concentration of 0.05 to 5.0% by weight and preferably in a total concentration of 2.0 to 4.0 wt .-%, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion Ge.
  • O / W emulsifiers oil-in-water emulsifiers
  • the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more anionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, particularly is preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more nonionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 3% by weight, particularly is preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more iron oxide pigments in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 20% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 15% by weight, particularly preferred between 0, 1 and 10% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion, be.
  • Iron (II) oxides and / or iron (III) oxides are used as preferred iron oxide pigments, such as Fe 2 0 3 , Fe 3 0 4 , FeO (OH).
  • Inorganic iron oxide pigments with a special lipophilic or hydrophilic coating are also advantageous, as a result of which the processing and application properties of these mineral pigments are improved.
  • Preferred examples of such coated pigments are coated with silica, alginate (MYOSHI), sodium glycerophosphate (SENSIENT) or triethoxycaprylylsilane, hydrogenated lecithin (SENSIENT), dimethicone or disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide (MYOSHI). It is particularly advantageous to select the color pigments from the following list.
  • the color index numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that hydrophilic emulsifiers with an HLB value of greater than / equal to 8 are used as O / W emulsifiers.
  • the HLB value of emulsifiers can be found in the usual standard works (e.g. Fiedler, Lexicon of Auxiliaries for Pharmacy, Cosmetics and Adjacent Areas, Editio Cantor Verlag, Aulendorf).
  • the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that glyceryl stearate citrate (CAS 39175-72-9, INCI glyceryl Stearate citrate, e.g. B. Imwitor 370 from Hüls), polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate (INCI Polyglyceryl Methyl Glucose Distearate, eg Tego Care 450 from Evonik) and / or polyethylene glycol (2000) monostearate (INCI; PEG-40 stearate) are used will.
  • glyceryl stearate citrate CAS 39175-72-9, INCI glyceryl Stearate citrate, e.g. B. Imwitor 370 from Hüls
  • polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate INCI Polyglyceryl Methyl Glucose Distearate, eg Tego Care 450 from Evonik
  • polyethylene glycol (2000) monostearate INCI;
  • the emulsion according to the invention contains potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, sodium stearyl glutamate, alkali salts of saturated fatty acids of chain length C14-C22, in particular sodium stearate, as the anionic emulsifier.
  • the emulsion according to the invention contains one or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters as nonionic emulsifiers.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester particularly preferred according to the invention is polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI polyglyceryl-10 stearate).
  • the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more anionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, particularly is preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more nonionic emulsifiers, in particular one or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, especially polyglyceryl-10 stearate in the emulsion is 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 3% by weight, particularly preferably between 0.1 and 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention can have the consistency of an ointment, cream or low-viscosity lotion or represent an ointment, cream or low-viscosity lotion.
  • the process according to the invention is carried out in the form of the hot-hot process.
  • a hot oil and water phase are combined with one another.
  • the process is carried out at a temperature not above 85.degree.
  • the emulsion can advantageously be in the form of an ointment, cream or lotion (optionally sprayable).
  • the emulsion can advantageously also be used as a spray or as a soaking medium for a plaster or cloth. Therefore, plasters and tissues soaked with the emulsion according to the invention are also according to the invention.
  • the water phase of the emulsion according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as alcohols, in particular those with a low carbon number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols with a low carbon number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, Ethylene glycol monoethyl or
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as alcohols, in particular those with a low carbon number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols with a low carbon number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, Ethylene glycol monoethyl or
  • the oil phase according to the invention can contain all conventional constituents of oil, fat and wax components used in cosmetics.
  • the emulsion according to the invention can advantageously contain cosmetic active and care substances, for example the UV light protection filters approved according to the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • cosmetic active and care substances for example the UV light protection filters approved according to the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • active ingredients can advantageously be present in concentrations of 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • niacinamide, panthenol, aloe vera vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin A derivatives, vitamin C, vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucosides, taurine, folic acid, amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, Alanine, arginine), carnosine, unsaturated fatty acids and their esters, especially di- and triglycerides (e.g. g-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), mannose, magnolia bark extract, magnolol, honokiol in concentrations of 0.001 to 5 wt.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, Alanine, arginine
  • carnosine unsaturated fatty acids and their esters
  • di- and triglycerides e.g. g-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, ole
  • the preparation according to the invention particularly preferably contains alpha-hydroxy acids and / or their salts as further constituents.
  • lactic acid / lactates or citric acid / citrates are preferably used in a concentration of 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparation according to the invention can contain perfumes in any desired composition and amount.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des émulsions cosmétiques huile dans l'eau (émulsions H/E) contenant, en plus d'une phase aqueuse, une ou plusieurs phases huileuses dispersées dans cette dernière, ainsi que : a) du scléroglucane ; et b) des pigments d'oxyde de fer.
PCT/EP2020/062969 2019-05-28 2020-05-11 Émulsion h/e comprenant du scléroglucane et des pigments d'oxyde de fer Ceased WO2020239402A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20725689.2A EP3962434A1 (fr) 2019-05-28 2020-05-11 Émulsion h/e comprenant du scléroglucane et des pigments d'oxyde de fer

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102019207778.1A DE102019207778A1 (de) 2019-05-28 2019-05-28 Kosmetische O/W-Emulsion mit Skleroglucan und Eisenoxidpigmenten
DE102019207778.1 2019-05-28

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2020239402A1 true WO2020239402A1 (fr) 2020-12-03

Family

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Family Applications (1)

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PCT/EP2020/062969 Ceased WO2020239402A1 (fr) 2019-05-28 2020-05-11 Émulsion h/e comprenant du scléroglucane et des pigments d'oxyde de fer

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3962434A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102019207778A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2020239402A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20240245588A1 (en) * 2021-05-18 2024-07-25 Titan Kogyo Kabushiki Kaisha Iron oxide pigment for cosmetic composition and cosmetic composition containing iron oxide pigment

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102021120620A1 (de) 2021-08-09 2023-02-09 Rebekka Dreher Kosmetische Hautcreme und Verwendung

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1132076A1 (fr) 2000-03-07 2001-09-12 L'oreal Composition capillaire épaissie comprenant un polymère fixant et un composé pulvérulent
WO2013076691A1 (fr) * 2011-11-25 2013-05-30 L'oreal Emulsion teintée
WO2014195265A1 (fr) * 2013-06-03 2014-12-11 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques comprenant un polyuréthanne associatif et un pigment à revêtement hydrophobe
DE102014015554A1 (de) 2014-10-22 2016-04-28 Beiersdorf Ag Polysaccharid-haltige Sonnenschutzmittel mit reduzierter Neigung zur Textilverfleckung
WO2018114406A1 (fr) * 2016-12-22 2018-06-28 L'oreal Émulsion huile dans l'eau comprenant un système tensioactif spécifique

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008155382A2 (fr) * 2007-06-20 2008-12-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Crayon cosmétique à base d'une émulsion/ dispersion huile dans eau comprenant un agent de formation d'hydrogel
KR102384373B1 (ko) * 2007-12-14 2022-04-08 바스프 에스이 착색 안료를 포함하는 자외선차단 조성물

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1132076A1 (fr) 2000-03-07 2001-09-12 L'oreal Composition capillaire épaissie comprenant un polymère fixant et un composé pulvérulent
WO2013076691A1 (fr) * 2011-11-25 2013-05-30 L'oreal Emulsion teintée
WO2014195265A1 (fr) * 2013-06-03 2014-12-11 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques comprenant un polyuréthanne associatif et un pigment à revêtement hydrophobe
DE102014015554A1 (de) 2014-10-22 2016-04-28 Beiersdorf Ag Polysaccharid-haltige Sonnenschutzmittel mit reduzierter Neigung zur Textilverfleckung
WO2018114406A1 (fr) * 2016-12-22 2018-06-28 L'oreal Émulsion huile dans l'eau comprenant un système tensioactif spécifique

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"Mineral UV Glow Base", GNPD, MINTEL, 1 March 2017 (2017-03-01), XP002777398 *

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20240245588A1 (en) * 2021-05-18 2024-07-25 Titan Kogyo Kabushiki Kaisha Iron oxide pigment for cosmetic composition and cosmetic composition containing iron oxide pigment

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE102019207778A1 (de) 2020-12-03
EP3962434A1 (fr) 2022-03-09

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